Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Fuel tanks and anything about fuel systems => Topic started by: Skoot on February 12, 2010, 09:22:22 PM
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Im armed with tools and BEER. Am I forgetting anything? :lol:
My tank is 35 years old and even though the boat has not seen much use, Im planning on replacing the tank. Im hoping I can remove the console, while leaving all the steering, throttle, etc cables still attached. Heres what I plan on doing. First remove the cooler seat, then the chase tray, then the console. Im hoping once all of this is removed I can pick up the console with everything still attached and move it towards the stern. This should leave me with plenty of room to remove the hatch and get to the tank. Thats the plan anyway Im going to start tomorrows and post pics along the way. If you guys have any suggestions Im all ears.
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Brandy or schnapps...supposed to be cold in our neck of the woods tomorrow...besides, makes it more fun!
If you can get the console out of the way without de-rigging/un-wiring, that's a big plus...any issues as you proceed into the job, post away! :thumleft:
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Skoot, you own an old survivor, carefully kept. Is the tank leaking? Does the present tank leech rust (i.e., original tank replaced with a galvanized steel tank.) Have seen on occasion that the tank is fine, but the gas that is pumped in (especially off the docks) is questionable, thereby questioning the tank.
Had a 1979 Hydrasports 2100CC. Little sister to the famous Hydra 2400CC, the boat that put them on the map. Strong running, VERY soft entry, relatively dry, Kevlar hull. Smokin' 21, and smokin' 24. Even now. Darn near ran Seacraft out of biz back then, and that's saying something. One helluva hull (the 24) IMO, best hull Hydrasports ever produced (except for freeboard).
My 2100 in her later years developed fuel probs.(clogged carbs., even thru the filters) Figured it was the tank, tore her down, all the way down. Pulled the tank, my word, it looked like brand new, no corrosion at all. Flushed her out anyway, ( cleaned with Varsol), dried out with forced air. Sucked about one quart of semi-solid mung from the tank bottom.
Re-installed tank.
Wasn't a tank problem; through the years, fueling at the docks, pumped their sludge into my tank. Pretty basic, but reality.
No good, but who knew?
Just a thought, before the tear-down.
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Just a thought, before the tear-down.
Good thought...
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Here's my tank replacement - step by step - good luck!
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=2597.0
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O man, you just had to have a thought, and I was all ready to tear that thing out today.
Okay heres some background info. The boat sat in a garage (with fuel in the tank) for the first 25 years of its life. It has the original tank, fuel lines, fittings etc. The second owner said he never had a problem with the tank. Just the occasional clogged filter, but nothing major. He also said that no water ever comes out the bilge drain. The 6 times I've taken the boat out the bilge has been dry. So as far as I can tell its completely dry in there. Im not sure about a fuel leak, because there is no access below the deck. Their is a slight oder of gas, but nothing major. As you know, there is no way of knowing the condition of the tank without removal.
The only thing I do know is that Im burning through fuel filters. A brand new Racor Fuel Filter gets completely clogged after about 1-2 hours of running both idle and on plane. There does not appear to be any water in the filter, but its getting clogged with gunk, and some reddish sandy/gritty stuff. I dont know what to do?
What if I Post a pic of the gunky fuel, will that help determine anything? What about a partial(very partial) pic of the tank itself?
What do you guys think?
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Scott,
Pour some of the "stuff" in a jar and take a pic. I'd like to see it... :shock:
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Skoot,
Thats gonna be time and money, any way you slice it. May be necessary, but maybe not.
Remove the sender, drain the tank through the top (leaving it in the boat). Be very careful of electrical connections/sparks, do your best to keep all of that outside of the boat You may need to jack up the stern so the gas/sludge runs to the front of the tank, so you can get a good visual. Then suck out that goo. A cheap utility vac would be perfect, then throw it away.
Depending on how it looks, you could dump a gallon of Varsol in, suck it out, then dry with a leaf blower, outside thru the fuel fill. But most likely unneccesary.
The tank isn't leaking, if there is no gas in the bilge. A slight gas odor below-decks is normal.
After all those years, for sure you have the sludge/infestation of every gas station she's ever visited. And gas by nature breaks down over time.
I'd sure try this first, based on the above post. Good luck. Let us know.
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Skoot had the same problem with mine when I first got it the boat had a half tank 25 gallons and like an idiot filled the boat to take it out for a test run. Once I got out relized it wasn't running right and would bog down and die after about 5 minutes of running. What I did to solve the problem I simply took a fuel pump from a car and hooked it up before the filter and drained the whole tank (with the boat jacked real high to get everything) Let it settle overnight in a 55 gallon plastic drum, then hooked a new filter to it and pumped it back into the boat sucking from the top and left the last 5 gallons or so. It looked the same as you described orange and sludge kinda reminds me of georgia clay mud. Then I replaced all of the fuel lines and the oil lines aswell. but of course I inpected the tank with a fiberoptic camera.
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Fiber optic camera, :cheers: I just happen to have access to one, dam thats a good idea. thanks bro.
I will work on draining the tank and post pics tomorrow.
Thanks for all the advise.
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I really love diagnosing from afar.
I give you my thoughts.
If you have put fuel in the tank since you brought it home (it appears you have) has it got ethanol in it?
Years of build up in the tank will be broken down over time with even 10% ethanol in the fuel. My CCP tank is very clean now, thanks to ethanol and I have gone through plenty of Racor filters.
Tank coffin dry? Well they do sweat and any water trapped in say, foam tape used to pad the anchor strap can and will lead to corrosion (from the outside).
Both of my tank failures occurred when I filled the tanks to capacity and banged them around a little. The added fuel helps the tank slide around easier and that "breaks loose" the corrosion.
You've got a beautiful boat but as well as it has been cared for, I would not hesitate to pull the tank. It's the only way you will know its condition on the outside, where these tanks fail.
Good luck.
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Hey Skoot,
Just thought I would chime in on this. I wonder if the original owner was disciplined about running NO E10 fuel in the boat and now the you are using the solvent based wonder drug that is beginning to cleanse the inside of the tank and constipating the racor. I just dumped 50 gal out of the 22-2 ( Tank replaced 10 years ago) with stabil in it for over a year in anticpation of rebuilding 8 carbs on the two 115 Mercs. The fuel was "coppery" in color and began to smell like "Neumans own" vinaigrette. My brother in law wanted the fuel for bond fires and his Ranger pickup which I gladly donated. I just installed two Racors to get the system virgin again. I will pump the remaining fuel with a well grounded electric fuel pump through the sender opening. I`m seeing symtoms of this damn fuel in the other boats. I noticed a black ring in the filter sightglass on my Baycraft flats boat that tells me that the 3 year old main fuel line is beginning to degrade. My 66 Orlando Clipper also suffers; I coundnt get fuel through the gas line to the 9.9, so when I took of the motor end fuel fitting off and I pumped the urethane innards of the fuel line into a coffee can. It was a OEM Mercury fuel line that was destroyed by this fuel. I wont even go there about my yard equipment issues. The only vehicle that hasnt shown any signs of an issue is the 63 International Cub tractor that I believe will run on whiskey and urine if mixed in the right proprtions!!
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Fitz,
You wouldn't happen to have a pic or two of your 66 OC that you might post?
Sorry for the thread steal,
Now back to the regularly scheduled programing.
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Hey Capt Bob,
I`ll snap some pictures, this one is a lapstrake fiberglass 14`, rebuilt the boat 10 years ago, new transom, awlgrip seafoam sprayed exterior and replicated original gray interior gelcoat with black splatter, added smarttabs with a 9.9 Merc, 22.5 mph on GPS. The boat had no wood except for the transom. My teenage son ran it for a couple of years so she is ready for a new finish. Still has the original plastic 3D "Orlando Clipper" emblems in tact.
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Definitely a poster child for what Ethanol will do :x
Ditto on the suggestions of draining the tank - don't see any other options.
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I got started today, I removed the cooler and hatch cover to gain access to the tank. From the top, the condition of the tank appears to be excellent. The top of the foam is dry and the bare wood in front/behind the tank are in top notch shape. It appears really dry in and around the tank. You can see the bare wood the tank is resting on looks good. All in all everything looks great. BUT
1. The inside of the tank is completely covered with varnish. Its a rust colored lining along the bottom of the tank. You can see shinny metal where my siphon hose was scraping along the bottom. When I was siphoning gas, I didnt notice any of the red flake stuff, but there some black growth that came through.
2. I poked my finger down the back of the tank, where there is a void in the foam and it was soggy and reeked of gas. I cant tell how wet it is, but it has gas soaked into the foam. Where is it coming from, thats the question?
Removed cooler seat and all screws.
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/cap.jpg)
Shut off valve, under console
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/valve.jpg)
Manufacturer plate- July-1974
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/tag.jpg)
Tank - Toward stern
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/stern-1.jpg)
Tank - Toward Bow
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/bow-1.jpg)
Plywood that tank is resting on
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/wood.jpg)
Side of Tank - Partial view - Some foam was missing.
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/void.jpg)
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Look under the foam straps on the bottom of the tank - that's where most of them leak.
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I think you and I had talked about this issue back in November. I think aluminum was up on friday! Just make sure you wash it out before you cut it up. I'm almost glad someone had already pulled mine. Make sure you measure it so we can see if there are any differences in yours compared to Terntwo's. Who have you checked with for a new one? Hopefully the gas hasn't gotten into the foam in the stringers. It is truly amazing to see the condition of everything under there. Makes you wonder if the lid has ever been off. Good luck!!!
:afro:
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Lewis, Thanks for the Vote of Confidence about fuel in the stringers. Honestly, I dont think its possible, and I dont wanna think about anymore. I haven't checked with anyone about the tank yet. Who do you guys recommend? Hell I dont even know how much an new one cost.
Im thinking I might be able to remove the tank without removing the console? What do you guys think?
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Scott,
If you can get her out without pulling the console, that would be a BIG plus!
Now, as far as a replacement tanks, basically here in FL we're looking at RDS Aluminum and Florida Marine Tanks. Now I just spoke to my friend Ray Seals at RDS last week about fabbing a tank for our new 35 (350 Gallons). We had a good long talk as I probably hadn't talked to him in a year and a half or so. Give us the dim.'s of the old tank and maybe RDS can build one for you at, how shall we say, a substantial discount... :wink:
Bob C
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Skoot,
As they say in the movie "The Godfather", Capt. Seabob has made you an offer you can't refuse. Darn nice offer, too.
Judging by the discussion, and since the rear foam is wet with gas....maybe the leak is up top at the rear of the tank....you stand it up on plane, the gas rushes to the rear and up....guess would be similar to the comment about the tank being completely full.
Guess its time to dig it out and take a look.
So get your tools, some BEER.... :lol:
(right back to where you were before your's truly chimed in).... :D
But thats okay, we're a team.
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Gran,
Hey, this site is the best, and if I can help an AS owner, damn sure I will!
But he has to provide his own (http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/cheersemoticon.gif)!
Bob C
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Make that two tanks :roll:
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Make that three!
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I agree my friend, this site IS the best. Have followed with interest your input and history, and although I'm a relative newbie, your engineering/design/construction expertise is invaluable, and much appreciated.
Keep it coming.
gran
PS. You want collards, I got'em..... :lol:
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Boys,
You beat the old man to the punch, by about 2 minutes.....we'll make it FOUR tanks. I'll wager that Skoot's in.... :bounce:
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Hi Skoot,
I had to replace an underfloor tank in an old sportcraft years ago. The tank was foamed in and stuck! I took a hacksaw blade and cut the foam around the sides but I could not get under it to cut the foam loose. I wound up laying a 4 X 4 across the top on the gunnels and hooked a come-a-long to the fill neck and applied pressure to pull it up and break the foam bond. Everyday I went up one or two clicks and after 3 days she popped loose. Just in case the tank is stuck, this could help.
Fitz73222
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Here's one way.
viewtopic.php?p=22750#p22750 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?p=22750#p22750)
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Alright guys, this is the deal. I need the dimensions of all your tanks. Most tanks have a "flat" on the bottom, where the tank sits on a glassed in "tank board". Some are simply a Vee that conforms to the hull bottom. But most are the former, not the latter.
Here is a quick drawing:
(http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/AquasportTankDrawings.jpg)
Those are the dimensions I need. I also need the locations of the fill/vent/pickup/sender. They are always centered so a dim. fore or aft will do.
You guys have my email, if not here it is. seabob4@earthlink.net. Lewis, you have my phone.
I will do my best to see if RDS can help us out here...
In the meantime, (http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/cheersemoticon.gif)!
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lewis give the man his phone back so he can call RDS for us :lol:
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Send the sketch to Phil at Alloy Metal Works and ask for a quote. They did mine - price was very good and they shipped it within one week of the order. Here's the contact info:
Phone 631-694-8163 fax 631-694-1213
e-mail: http://www.alloymetalworks.com/103/2716.html (http://www.alloymetalworks.com/103/2716.html)
See ya on the water!
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Give us the dim.'s of the old tank and maybe RDS can build one for you at, how shall we say, a substantial discount... :wink:
That would be awesome, :cheers: I will get some detailed dimensions as soon as the tank comes out. Thanks alot.
I also need the locations of the fill/vent/pickup/sender. They are always centered so a dim. fore or aft will do.
Bob, On my current tank the Sender is the only thing centered. Its located directly below the access hatch in the first pic. Now, the Fill, Vent, and Pickup are located on the starboard side of the tank, about 3-4" from the side. Not sure it has to remain this way, but thats the current setup. (see pics)
Thanks again for everyones help you guys rock. :thumright:
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So I got the tank out today. All in all it wasn't that bad. I was even able to get it out without removing the console :D . The tank appears to be in good shape. There is some pitting, but it doesn't look too bad. The foam that secures the tank towards the stern was soaked with gas. Just the the bottom and about 3 inches up. Im not sure if it was a leak or if it sloshed out when the tank was full. There is about 5-6 spots on the tank that have some pitting, (see pics). It doesnt look that bad, but I dont know how much pitting it too much? Is there a way to fix the pitting?
Top of tank
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/tanktop.jpg)
bottom of tank
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/tankbot.jpg)
Heres the worst of the pitted areas
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/tankpit.jpg)
Coffin where tank was sitting
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/coffin1.jpg)
The wood and foam look/feel really good, no rot what so ever
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/coffin1.jpg)
looking toward the bow
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/coffin3.jpg)
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Skoot,
You repair pitting by replacing the tank.
That baby is primed for a major failure. Notice how the outline of the foam follows the pitted area. The foam also trapped water along the leading edge.
It's time for a new tank.
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Yea, I figured as much, just didn't know if some pitting on the tank was okay. I guess its not.
I will get the dimensions later today and post back. Your ears will be ringing soon seabob4 :cheers:
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Yea, I figured as much, just didn't know if some pitting on the tank was okay. I guess its not.
I will get the dimensions later today and post back. Your ears will be ringing soon seabob4 :cheers:
I'll be around...
Looks like a simple rectangular tank. Easier to fab then one with a V-bottom. Just make sure of the dim.'s on the fill, vent, pickup, and sender locations.
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Is that really a sheet of marine grade plywood with no glass over it :scratch: :scratch: :scratch: Is that a stock deal or omething done afterwards never thought that our tanks sat on an old piece of wood good way to rot the tank out just by itself.
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Is that really a sheet of marine grade plywood with no glass over it :scratch: :scratch: :scratch: Is that a stock deal or omething done afterwards never thought that our tanks sat on an old piece of wood good way to rot the tank out just by itself.
In the "Wellcraft" days, it was a board made of a material similar to Coosa which was glassed in place. I'd have to say that came at a later date by someone who had no concept on how to build a boat... :roll:
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Is that really a sheet of marine grade plywood with no glass over it :scratch: :scratch: :scratch: Is that a stock deal or omething done afterwards never thought that our tanks sat on an old piece of wood good way to rot the tank out just by itself.
Yes that is bare plywood, I dont think its even marine grade. As far as I know thats how they came from the factory. There is also bare plywood Frame that holds the foam in front and back of the tank.
Look at terntwo 24, his has bare wood also.
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My 1977 170 has a glassed in coffin. They must have changed it between 75 and 77.
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Okay, I got the dimensions of the Tank, Fill, Vent, Sender and Pickup. I hope it makes sense.
Since Im getting a new tank should I have them make the Vent, Fill and Ground with the same B measurements(see below) instead of the current configurations? Or leave as is?
Let me know if you need anything else
Got the drawing from RDS website, then filled in my measurements.
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/Measure.jpg)
This photo shows the Vent, Fill and ground which is located near the bow. Notice the slight angle towards starboard
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/fill-vent.jpg)
Heres the tank toward the stern, showing the pick-up. Also angled towards starboard.
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/pickup.jpg)
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Scott,
The issue I see with the "B" dim.'s is that, per RDS's drawing, they would be further fwd than your current loc.'s, correct? But not by much...
Just want you to get a tank you'll be happy with.
Tomorrow, we'll see if Ray can help you (and others) out...keep out fingers and toes crossed! :lol:
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Scott,
The issue I see with the "B" dim.'s is that, per RDS's drawing, they would be further fwd than your current loc.'s, correct? But not by much...
I'm not sure I'm following you. I modified that RDS drawing to match the overall dimensions, fill, vent, sender and pick-up locations of my current tank.
I got that drawing from the RDS Stock Marine Tanks - Below Deck section of there website. Its the 18gal tank. I just used it as a starting point because it was the same shape as my tank.
I just dont know why the "B" dims are that different on my current tank. If you look at the second pic, you'll see they are all in slightly different locations. Im not sure if there is a reason for that, or when I get a new tank built should they just be lined up to have the same "B" dims. (Hopefully this makes sense)
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Scott,
I'm probably just seeing things. We're good to go. For some idiotic reason I thought they were standard dimensions given by RDS...
We shall find out tomorrow what they can do for us/you... :thumright:
Sorry, some other :*: on my mind...
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Being bare wood on the bottom like that makes me rethink leaving the stock tank in for so long :scratch: :scratch: Can't wait to find out the price of a new one might have to wait for me untill I get back from PA just bought a new truck and a vacation so for once this year the boat is taking a backseat for a month or so.
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Hey Skoot, I would put an extra fuel pickup on there when you have it made and cap it off so you can drain it without having to undo the fuel line to the motor. Capt Bob did this on his tank for the walkaround and I think its a great idea!
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4608&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=45 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4608&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=45)
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Sorry guys, had a bit of a busy day yesterday. Scott, I emailed my buddy Ray at RDS this morn with your tank dim.'s, he replied he'll have a price for me this aft.
Just don't want you guys to think I'm laying down on the job...
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Ray was "The Man" that I dealt with on my WAC replacement. :salut:
He was very nice to work with and the turnaround was great (I was in no hurry because of cost but it was about a week).
RDS has a neat plant (if you're in to that mechanical stuff) and they reside in an old Florida town along US 27.
A very good experience. :thumleft:
As far as the extra pickup for drainage, well....
Certainly not rocket science but because I was able to drain both tanks so easily with the existing pickup (I disconnected the fuel lines from the filters and motors) I thought why not. I'm going to fight this ethanol fuel nightmare as best I can and both my sons bikes and truck have burned it right up.
This works for me because I don't use my boat like I once did and when I do get to go out, old fuel isn't something I want to worry about. Add me to the list of owners who have been bitten by the ethanol bug and chalk me up as a firm believer in "Seafoam" additive (there are others that I'm sure are as good or better) and fresh fuel.
Good on ya SB for helpin' these guys out with RDS. :thumright:
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Alright Scott, heard back from Ray. Now, I'm assuming I'm going to have to go through Proline to buy, so an additional cost I had to factor in. This is the deal on the tank with the dim.'s you specified. With a .090" wall thickness, 49 gals., $295 plus shipping. With .125" wall thickness, 48 gals., $365 plus shipping. Now understand, I'm not making a cent here, and shipping would have to be done between me and RDS so the tank gets to your house.
Tell me what you think...
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With .125" wall thickness, 48 gals., $365 plus shipping.[
55gal .125 thick, picked up myself. 200 total miles (two trips)
$561.75 including tax.
Sounds like a no-brainer Scott.
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Wow !!! That is a deal!!! So how far is it from Brooksville to Lawrenceville? 450 miles?
I think its about time to call in my thank you for finding my boat fishing trip skoot!
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Lewis,
Give me a call...
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Alright Scott, heard back from Ray. Now, I'm assuming I'm going to have to go through Proline to buy, so an additional cost I had to factor in. This is the deal on the tank with the dim.'s you specified. With a .090" wall thickness, 49 gals., $295 plus shipping. With .125" wall thickness, 48 gals., $365 plus shipping. Now understand, I'm not making a cent here, and shipping would have to be done between me and RDS so the tank gets to your house.
Tell me what you think...
...This post is USEFUL even without pics! What a deal, you the man. :shock:
Now I have to take 2 people fishing and provide the beer! :cheers:
This has to be the BEST SITE on the www :mrgreen:
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Scott,
Talked to Lewis tonight, said you guys talked about reduced tankage. That's cool, just let me know what you want to do.
Anybody else, got a good receptive response today from RDS, so get me your dimensions. I'm not saying they'll pump out tanks in droves, but it appears Ray is willing to work with me...
Hopefully I can do it between me and RDS, I don't have to go through Proline. Then we save a bit more money... :cheers:
BTW Scott, a run down from N. Pinellas to the shipping channel by the Skyway to fish the channel drop-offs for keeper grouper would be cool...
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Scott,
Talked to Lewis tonight, said you guys talked about reduced tankage. That's cool, just let me know what you want to do.
Im still undecided bob. I was hoping some of the fellow 19-6 crew would chime in and give their thoughts. The minimum I would go would be ~35 gallons. But my concern is, will 35 gallons be enough. My primary use for the boat will be weekend fishing trips (mid shore). Possible skiing, wake boarding and tubing in the near future. (my kids are getting older)
So what do you 19-6'ers think. Stick with a 50gallon tank or reduce the size? and Why?
If im over thinking this (as usual) someone let me know!
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Just my $0.02-
You can always put just 35gal. in a 50gal. tank. The extra fuel is always nice to have when you want it. I would never want to limit my range because you never know when that might limit how many fish you catch, or worse... Besides, I always feel like I don't have quite enough gas as it is : )
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I 100% agree with badon I personally have never used all 50 gallons either but you never know and I've also taking the boat 30+ miles offshore to troll for the day and still used about 3/4 of a tank BUT I would never go off shore if I know that I'd be running on fumes on the way back so... Go with 50 wou'll be happy
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As Huey Lewis so wisely said: "Better to have and not need than to need an not have." Go with the bigger tank and have 2 outlet ports put in just in case you decide to put a kicker on at some point. :thumleft:
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As Huey Lewis so wisely said: "Better to have and not need than to need an not have." Go with the bigger tank and have 2 outlet ports put in just in case you decide to put a kicker on at some point. :thumleft:
Good idea on the second pickup. You can always cap it with a plug, then install a barb later should you need it...
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You can always put just 35gal. in a 50gal. tank.
Im still laughing at this. :lol: So true, So true.
Thanks alot guys for the replies and suggestions. Looks like I'm placing an order for a 50gal tank.
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You can always put just 35gal. in a 50gal. tank.
Im still laughing at this. :lol: So true, So true.
Thanks alot guys for the replies and suggestions. Looks like I'm placing an order for a 50gal tank.
Call me tomorrow (Sunday) Scott.
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Scott,
Do yourself a favor.
With the money you save on buying the tank through SB4, buy yourself a fuel metering device such as a "Flow Scan".
http://www.floscan.com/html/blue/recreationalmarine.php (http://www.floscan.com/html/blue/recreationalmarine.php)
Use it and really understand just how much fuel your motor is burning at any speed and the total amount burned. A real fuel gauge.
With time and use, you'll really know how much fuel you burn under varying sea conditions so when you decide to do a little extra yachting; be it skiing,exploring or a quick hop to Bimini, you'll have a real indicator of how much fuel you'll need to get home.
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Scott,
Ordered your tank this past Friday afternoon. Sent Ray all the pertinent info, but didn't hear back from him. They may be on 4 day work weeks as well, like us.
I'll get you an update tomorrow, as well as estimated shipping date.
Bob C
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Scott,
Ordered your tank this past Friday afternoon. Sent Ray all the pertinent info, but didn't hear back from him. They may be on 4 day work weeks as well, like us.
I'll get you an update tomorrow, as well as estimated shipping date.
Bob C
Sounds good to me, cant wait. I got all the foam out today, just need to get the coffin prepped and I'll be ready.
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Im making some progress, it feels like its taking forever. I ended up ripping out the unfinished plywood platform that was in there and replaced it with a new piece. I encapsulated it completely with fiberglass and installed it back in the boat. SEE BELOW
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/a1.jpg)
I also ran a new fuel and fill line. What the heck do you ground the fill line too? It appears the original ground wire went between the plastic sleeve that fits inside the fill hose(bare wire) then to the screw and nut that holds the deck fill down to the cap(pic-2). Is this sufficient?
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/a3.jpg)
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc114/skootcat/a2.jpg)
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I also ran a new fuel and fill line. What the heck do you ground the fill line too?
Run a ground wire from the fill cap (mine has a dedicated attachment point) to the ground on your new fuel tank. Then run from the tank to your ground buss (some run to the negative post on the battery).
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00008.jpg)
Tank ground is top left, next to fuel sender.
3 wires running from ground. 2 to fill hose where one breaks off and goes to buss, other to fill cap.
The one to the left tied into original tank ground. Redundant and not really needed.
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After several other tedious projects I finally got the tank installed, new fill and feed lines, new fuel filter with stainless head, new primer ball and new clean fuel. I started her up in the driveway and everything looks good, no leaks. Ill post some pics tomorrow.
I do have a question for you guys. The large tank cover hatch had some white pliable putty all the way around the inside lip, where the cover sits on (look at the pic a few post ago, you can see where the putty was). Obviously this was to keep water out of the tank coffin, But what the heck is it? Im guessing its original 35yrs old and its still pliable about like chewing gum. Any thoughts as what it might be?
Im thinking about using again as a bedding then sealing just the seam of hatch cover with silicone.
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Hope I don't sound stupid here, but Plumber's Putty...like you bed a kitchen sink with? :scratch:
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Hope I don't sound stupid here, but Plumber's Putty...like you bed a kitchen sink with? :scratch:
who would have thunk. It does look and feels like it. I might very well be plumbers putty.
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Hope I don't sound stupid here, but Plumber's Putty...like you bed a kitchen sink with? :scratch:
who would have thunk. It does look and feels like it. I might very well be plumbers putty.
Scott,
I mean, like, have you ever run across some compound that never hardens, yet remains water-proof and leak free? What do they make that :*: out of? Can they plug the oil spill with it?(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/Smilies/Shruggingshoulders.gif)
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Hey Scott sorry if I'm too late on this one but I just used 5200 on my new tank lid without any screws and just left weight on both ends for a week. Since I only put on the seam it should not be a problem to cut it out if/when I need to replace my tank :roll:
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Damit man! :thumbdown:
So after the tank was installed, strapped down, grounded etc etc I was ready to replace the lid and screw/seal it up. I ended up putting more plumbers putty on the base/lip of coffin then dropped the lid on top. It sealed really well. I figured this would keep water out and make it easier to lift the lid in the future. I then applied some 3m silicone around the seam and screwed down the hatch and cooler seat. Now I have a double water barrier. Yea, I was ready for the gathering, or so I thought.
So finally got to test out the new tank this weekend and..... :thumbdown: :thumbdown: :thumbdown: :thumbdown: The primer bulb goes flat whenever I try to get on plane. I can idle and slow run slow speed all day. I even tried an axillary tank and the same thing happened. The vent is working properly and my fuel lines are not kinked. So my guess now is either the fuel/water separator or the primer bulb itself. At least I hope.
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Any other Thoughts??? :scratch:
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Scott,
A suction or blockage is being created that the engine fuel pump can't overcome. First, try loosening your fuel fill next time you run it. Could also be the anti-siphon ball in the fuel pick-up barb...
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Hi Skoot,
How did you validate the vent works properly; I`m sure thats not the problem unless the vent hose is kinked. Anti siphon valves cause a host of problems but usually show up at idle with fuel starvation when the fuel pump is working the least from a volume perspective. The engine will continually shut off at idle because the fuel pump cant overcome the check ball spring tension. If you havent replaced the water separator, do so anyway to get a new base line for maintenance. Replace the bulb and see what happens. Otherwise you are going to have to pull the hatch and remove the check ball and spring and pitch it. If your concerned about a siphoning issue, put a shut off ball valve at the water separater inlet. When you used an auxillary tank did you use the same fuel line? If it had the same problem with a different tank with the same fuel line; look at the fuel ine and primer bulb for the obstruction. Its something simple and I doubt its your new fuel system since you replaced everything.