Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Fuel tanks and anything about fuel systems => Topic started by: LittleTunny on October 21, 2009, 08:31:37 AM
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I have been finding an alarming amount what looks like fine gray powder in my fuel/water filter for the last couple of seasons. I think the tank is breaking down from the inside and this powder may be Aluminum Oxide. There may be a Ethenanol connection to all of this. To get me through this season I have been replaceing the fuel/water filters about every 100-120 gals. of fuel burned just to limp through the year. I have decided to replace the 85Gal aluminum original fuel tank. This Site is great, with lots of info, maybe too much. I will start with some of the prep work today. I will remove the leaning post and detach and raise the center console to access the tank cover and try to remove. Here comes the questions. Do I have to completely remove the center console w/ wiring and cables in order to remove the fuel tank? Or if raised enough can I slide the tank out from under the CC. I know the process be tough but I don't want to deal with all the CC wire/cable headaches. I am not in a big hurry, but if I can eliminate a few steps in the process it would help. Any tips or links w/pics?
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LT,
It's been 13+ years since I did mine but....
I removed the "fish box" coffin and then had enough room to move the console forward to clear the tank hatch.
Unless you have somehow added a bunch of "stuff" behind the tank (in its coffin) there is plenty of room to slide the tank back and remove it. I believe I tilted the console forward to allow clearace for the hatch cover.
Plenty of space. :thumright:
Good Luck.
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LT,
I have a 20', not a 22' but I had no problem in getting that tank out without dismantling the console. Take the fish boxes out of the boat, you'll appreciate the extra working room, then the console should have enough play to get it up on some 4 X 4 or two two-bys. You'll contort a bit to get at all the fuel hatch screws, but you'll then have enough room to slide the hatch cover toward the stern.
Keep all the safety precautions in mind when working with draining the tank.
It will be a mess (probably) in the fuel tank coffin, but you'll be able to slide some straps or rope under the tank, lift the stern end first, the slide-lift it out. The tank is surprisingly light when empty. Cleaning out the coffin is a two-beer job. There should be some pin hole drainage holes in the bottom stern end of the coffin that you may want to enlarge a little bit for drainage purposes (optional).
Check out all the previous posts and pictures on this site for a demo. Nearly every member with an older AS has undertaken this project. If the hatch needs a rebuild, you'll see posts for that also. Consider coating the new tank with coal tar epoxy (optional, various opinions abound) before installing. Good Luck!
Wayne
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Here is the step by step replacement for my 22-2CCP tank:
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=2597.0
Good luck!
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Thanks to all who gave me input. The job was much easier than first though. I love my Aquasport because of its great engineering and design. Everytime I have done work on it, it is very user friendly. Everything is designed and built with the end user in mind. I can not find any other boat with such intelligent design. I love it and plan on keeping it for as long as possible. The Fuel Tank is removed and I am getting quotes from fabricators. Including the original manufacturer. I planned to attach photos of the job but am having trouble doing so. (the boat is user friendly not the computer) I have tried PhotoBucket and can't get it to work. It's something simple I am not doing right I suspect. Any other methods or tips? Sure would like to share this process with other Aquasport owners. Thanks again: Capt. John
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I have tried PhotoBucket and can't get it to work. It's something simple I am not doing right I suspect. Any other methods or tips? Sure would like to share this process with other Aquasport owners. Thanks again: Capt. John
This is really Rick's domain but you might try this.
Once you have your photos to "Pbucket" open a second tab in your web browser (ctrl t). and open the C.Aqua Forum. Now you can move back and forth between the two when posting.
In "bucket" open a photo you wish to post, hold your mouse over the pic and a header will appear above the pic. Move your curser to "edit" (a drop down box appears) move it down to "resize" and click.
This is where it gets funky because this Forum (CAqua) currently doesn't allow pic HEIGHT greater than 600 pixels.
You now need to resize to fit this Forum restriction. Most of the time, I use the "large" preset size which is 640(width) x 480(height) pixels. It all shows on the "resizing box" above your pic.
You can resize by entering numbers yourself or often (but not always) use the "preset" sizes. You can be creative here but remember the 600 height pixel restriction.
Now, this is where some get confused. After you choose the corrected size you must click on "apply". If you don't, your changes will not take affect.
Lastly, either click on "make a copy" or "replace the original" . In either case, it will take a few moments to complete this task after which you will see you pic once again.
Scroll down and on the left side of the screen you will see a box called "share your photo". Click on the IMG url and a yellow box appears that reads "copied".
Now reopen your "Forum tag" and start your post. When you get to where you want your pic, click on the IMG command (above the post field) then hit ctrl v and you pic is copied. Preview your post before you send to check correct size and that an additional (http://or) hasn't appeared.This doesn't always happen but then sometime it does on my computer. Just remove the extra ones (see below). Preview again and all should be fine.
Wrong
(http://[IMG]http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Tankback.jpg)[/img]
Right
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Tankback.jpg)
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I tried the Photo insert and still can't get it to work. I am the worst when it comes to getting a computer to do anything. I think I need to give the photo an address to go to? I am lucky I am able to just do this. No worries, I don't really need to post pics. I'll try to get some help from a friend this weekend. I hate Computers. Thanks for the help Capt. Bob. Talk to you soon. Regards; Capt. John
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CJ,
Don't feel bad.
The whole photo thing with the Forum is a little funky right now and you're certainly not the first to struggle with posting photos.
Happens on every Forum I'm on, be it boats, trucks, motorcycles.
Good luck.
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LittleTunny do you live in Sarasota also? Reason I ask is there is a aqua colored 170 custom Osprey just 2 streets down from me with "LilTunny" or something close, on the sides.
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Hi Rick K. ; Sorry, I don't live in FLA. But at this time of year I wish I did. Homeport for the Little Tunny is Vineyard Haven, on Martha's Vineyard Island, Mass. I am a Carpenter/Charter Captain. I build million dollar water front or water view homes exclusively in the town of Edgartown. During the summer fishing season I run light tackle/fly charters for myself. I also run a charter boat for a hotel, and do freelance captain/guide work for the wealthy people with big boats. The season is over for the most part now, and am getting ready for a fishing trip with some friends to Cape Lookout, NC. I will winterize the engine today, and put the cover on the boat tomorrow. Thinking of removing the fuel injectors and sending them out to get cleaned. I hear there are some places in FLA that are good. Got any recommendations? Nothing like that on this Rock. Winter is tough here to say the least. OK that's enough I got to get to work. I'll try the picture thing again later. Best of Luck: Capt. John
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http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab30 ... rent=1.jpg (http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab301/LittleTunny222/?action=view¤t=1.jpg)
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LittleTunny,
When you click on the link you posted it takes you to your account - ok, that's close. If you click on a picture and look below it you'll see a section named "Share this image". In that section you'll see a line of code with "IMG Code" in front of it. That code is what you want to copy and paste in your topics here. It's that easy.
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Here ya go LT.
As Rick stated, you're very close.
(http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab301/LittleTunny222/1.jpg)
Very nice! :thumright:
I took this right from your link in your last post.
Try it again like Rick said.
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Thanks Rick: I think I got it now.
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Here are some Step by Step photos of the 1989 Aquasport 222CCP Fuel Tank Removal.
First I removed as much fuel as I could. There was only about 1/4 gallon left when I took the tank out.
(http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab301/LittleTunny222/3.jpg)
Removed the Leaning Post and screws from the base of the Center console. Cut away the old caulking and carefully raised it on some 4X4s.
(http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab301/LittleTunny222/4.jpg)
Next removed the screws from the Fuel Tank Deck Cover and cut away caulking. Was able to lift the Deck Cover up and slide to the stern to just clear the motor.
(http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab301/LittleTunny222/5.jpg)
Disconect all the Fuel Lines and Wiring. Next, carefully bend back the stainless clips on the tank straps so you can reuse. Slowly lift Fuel Tank out of Tank Hold.
(http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab301/LittleTunny222/6.jpg)
And that's it. Inspect and clean Tank Hold, and order a new 85 gal. tank. It was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be.
(http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab301/LittleTunny222/7.jpg)
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I have got 2 quotes so far. One is from the original Fuel Tank manufacturer. Florida Marine Tanks model # FMT AQS 85A they still have all the original specs. They came in at $900, and probably $100 to ship. I also tried a fabricator in Bristol, Rhode Island, Luthers Welding, they have been supplying Fuel Tanks for local boat yards on Cape Cod and the Islands. They sayed they just made one not too long ago. They came in at $800, and I could pick it up. I would bring them the old tank so that there is no misunderstanding about size and configuration. The way the Fuel Tank fit in the Fuel Tank Hold it was very snug and has to fit properly. Maybe a good argument to stick with the original manufacturer and pay for the peace of mind. But I am open to any ideas, I have the whole winter to get it done. I really appreaciate having access to a web site info source such as this to get information and ideas. Thank You for all the help Classic Aquasport. Capt. John
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For $200 bucks I think I would go with the local guy as long as he has some history. Ask to see some of his other tanks, ask how he constructs them (baffles and such) - if you give him the old he can make it identical. $200 is a lot of gas - not a fill up for my 230 but about half anyway.
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Hi All; I'm back and the new tanks here. Can't wait to put it in. Just to check I made a template of the profile of it to see if there will be any bedding issues. The shape is true on either end but slightly diffreent in the middle. I read on a post that someone used some foam on the bottom of the tank so it will conform. I am wondering what tpye of foam? It must have to be a spray expanding Closed Cell type foam. And also won't it glue the tank in place? How will ever get the tank out if I need to again? I am thinking of oiling the tank and the hold before spraying the foam so it won't stick to either surface. Or should I just skip this phase and just drop the tank in. I am afraid that the fiberglass tank hold will crack and break if I don't distribute the wieght and pressure of the tank evenly. One more though. Do I need to fill the tank ASAP before the foam cures, so it cures under pressure. Maybe I am thinking way too much about this. I just want to do it right the first time and not ruin the boat for the future. I would apperacite any input. Thanks; Capt. John
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Please don't foam it in. You'll be doing this all over again in 5 years. Check over on Mako.com- half of their forum traffic is people replacing aluminum fuel tanks that were foamed in place and leak due to crevice corrosion.
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm
I followed this procedure when I did mine and it is holding up just fine.
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I would have to weigh in a little differently - I would powercoat the tank, and foam it in, except on the bottom. No pads, no strips, just leave the bottom clean to allow a good drain. Foam the sides, front, and back. The foam will give great structural support and leaving the bottom open will take care of the most likely corrosion problem. Yes, the foam will glue the tank to the well and that is a good thing. Make sure the foam expands up over the edges of the tank, so any moisture from condensation is on the tank, not in foam crevices. Based on what I have seen, the powder coat will protect the tank for - just a guess here - about 50 years.
My $0.02.
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Oh Boy! It's good to get input. I have been away dog sitting for a few days. OK, this what the tank fabricator told me. He has been advising all his customers to not let the aluminum come in direct contact with anything where water will act as a catalist. He recomended that I 5200 strips of 1/4 inch Lexan (Plexiglass) onto the tank where the stainless straps are so the dissimilar materials will not react. He also said it would be a good idea to do the same on the bottom and sides to keep it above the fiberglass. But to leave space between the strips for drainage. This made a lot of sense to me. He showed me an old tank where someone 5200 1/4 inch plywood strips and didn't work because the wood absorbed water and started to cause problems. Use Plastic. I asked if I could protect the tank by painting it? He said yes, if you can get the right paint (industrial coating). We concluded that auotmotive undercoating would be an inexpensive acceptable alternative. I would love to power coat the tank but don't have access to that technology on Martha's Vineyard. My biggest concern is that the well is uneven and irregular in some places and that pressure points will cause the thin fiberglass to crack and break. 85 gallons of fuel is a lot of weight. But the old tank didn't cause any damage at these pressure points. I do not want to use foam of any type in any amount on the bottom. I figure I will try to shim the best I can with different thicknesses of Lexan where needed. Maybe I am over thinking this whole thing. :scratch:
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Maybe I am over thinking this whole thing. :scratch:
Yes and no.
My colleague Capt. John can make a great argument for powder coating and others will point to the virtue of coal tar but one thing stand on its own.
Aluminum oxidizes and forms a coating on the surface that resists corrosion as well as anything. Better yet, it requires no pre-treatment for adhesion.
The key is to keep the surface dry. It is TRAPPED moisture that causes the tank to corrode/pit. Just look at every tank removed and 90+% is as good as the day it went in. It's the areas where it has been allowed to remain wet that fail.
Keep it dry, anyway you can and you lengthen the life of the tank. Its that simple.
Doing it is the hard part.
Good luck.
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Thank you Capt. Bob. Your right. The reason I had to replace the tank was due to one of the old copper pick ups failed and dropped to the bottom of the tank and caused an electrolysis. The outside was in fairly good condition. Just a small area of concern where the foam tape under the stainless strap on the bottom was wet for some time. My biggest worry is the uneven fiberglass tank well and how to cerate even weight distribution of the tank onto (what I think is) the fragile well. I don't dare step into the tank well for fear I will crack and break it. Not that I should step into it. The tank well is stable and strong but flexable when pressure is applied. Kind of like the new cars of today. I would never think of sitting on the hood, like we used to do at a drive in movie. I don't want to cause any structural damage after the job is done and I am in rough seas with a full tank due to excessive pressure on a small point. This is my main concern over anything at this point before reinstallation.
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Ditto on preventing moisture, but it is a boat - Aquasport's original idea was to seal the tank area completely - that's why there is no drain hole in that tank tub. However, condensation and an itty-bitty break in the tank cover caulk and now you got moisture. As you have been advised, keep anything that adsorbs moisture away from the tank, especially on the bottom. However, you may be "overthinking" this - I kinda felt that way on my tank replacement - because the first tank was not painted/coated, and it had the foam pads under it that absorbed water - yet it lasted almost 30 years before leaking! I guess a tank replacement every 30 years isn't such a big deal... But DO drill a small drain hole in the rear center of the tank tub so whatever water/moisture that gets in there can drain. You could even put a drain plug there if you wanted and be able to open/close from the access port in the center of the spashwell over the bilge pump.
BTW- You might check MV Machine there at Martha's Vineyard out if you want to powder coat:
http://www.mvmachine.com/ (http://www.mvmachine.com/)
Good luck - see ya on the water!
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Thanks Capt. John; My boat came with 5 drain holes from the factory.
(http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab301/LittleTunny222/012.jpg)
(http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab301/LittleTunny222/010.jpg)
Do you think it is absolutely necessary to do a glass repair between the strap and the hole? I think they may have done this at the factory to install the stainless strap.
EDIT by Admin:You were very close to having the IMG codes right. When you copy the IMG codes from photobucket, you DON'T need to click the IMG button here when adding the code to your post, what you copied from photobucket has everything you need in it already. I also deleted the extra posts after this - sorry Bob.