Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Express Fisherman/ Walkaround/ Explorer Rebuilds => "Walkaround" Rebuilds => Topic started by: Capt. Bob on August 09, 2009, 09:23:30 PM
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I'm looking at a 1991 WAC 21 footer. Any info that someone may have would be welcomed.
It has an anchor pedestal, the older style sliding windows (for the 21'), possibly no in deck fish box (s)????? though maybe the owner didn't understand what I was describing.
I'm wondering if the transom is wood or had they switched to composite? The 92 brochure in our reference section looks "somewhat different" though this model appears to be an Aqua rather than a re badged Wellcraft. The owner says it has an aluminum tank.
So if anyone has experience with this model and doesn't mind sharing, thanks.
SeaBob, does this pre date your tenure at the Sarasota plant?
Thanks in advance.
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My '92 has a wood transom.
Edit: The transom is a poured version and above the pour on both sides they have wood.
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Thanks Rick.
I'm thinking that my transom platform would work on this model.
It appears in the 92 brochure that there are not "fish box(s)" on this model. Also,it's hard to tell if there is access to the tank via a removal deck cover. I'm assuming that the area between the cockpt and splashwell is not enclosed and doesn't have removal piece that closes this area as in the later model 215.
I'm wondering if the 21' lenght includes the anchor pedestal :scratch:
A small but functional WAC.
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I guess the first thing to ask is what model is it? Explorer? Family Fisherman? Express Fisherman? Not sure what models were made in that year but can assume the Explorer was since mine is a 92.
My fuel tank is under 2 big hatches that take up the room between the two cooler/baitwells under the helm seats.
I have a bolt on anchor pulpit, which was common on them and don't think it is part of the LOA.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68Plow_Anchor2.JPG)
Mine does have a removable hatch in front of the engine that is covering what looks like where an I/O engine would mount, you can step 2ft down into this, and they have a removable fish box in there. I pulled this out and dropped a 40gal freshwater tank in there.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68fresh_water_tank01a.JPG)
As for the back being open, here is a shot of the cockpit
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68Chillin_space.JPG)
My boat didn't come with anything that closes it in but Fishhead in Calif has a 93 Osprey that is the same hull and similiar liner in the back and he did have something that would enclose the engine area about 12 inches high. You can also see the fuel tank covers, the 2 cooler/baitwells under the helm seats and the hatch in the rear for the fishbox.
IMHO, if you want a bunch of room and a cabin to boot, get the 230. I even have more room in the back then a 250 and 275 Explorer because they are enclosed and the LOA changes then to include the bracket (if integrated).
Getting back to your questions, I guess the first thing to ask is what model is it? :wink:
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Thanks again Rick.
It has to be an Explorer. It's a walk-a-round cuddy so not an FF. It does have the short pedistal seats (with a section of the foot cut for clearance) mounted on the rasied sections that form the "storage/live well" on each side of the helm.
A bolted on anchor pulpit makes sense because it does not appear to be molded to the bow.
No cushions on top of the storage/live well,but has a cushion on the bow. I'm not sure how the anchor rode is stored.
There is an inspection plate in the cuddy. The owner says he put a bilge pump there but I though I read that you had one there from the factory (maybe on the 23 but not the 21). The plate looks factory installed. No padded coaming bolsters in the cockpit from what little I can tell.
I'm going to request a few more pics.
It's located in Seminole so until I can get there I'm trying to piece together a little data base on this model. In my search, I have not run across a 23 yet.
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Hey Bob, that looks nice! What are you going to do with ROMIII?
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Definitely an Explorer. :thumleft:
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Hey Bob, that looks nice! What are you going to do with ROMIII?
It really does look nice Lewis, in a WAC kinda way.
It is an Aqua rather than a Wellcraft.
It's smaller than the CCP and moving closer to the front to pilot will more than likely lessen the ride quality in a chop but....
It's more open in the back for fishing and just hangin' around plus it has the small cuddy I've been looking for.
As for the ROM3, It was going to be a donor craft.
I had envisioned using various parts off her to fix up a wac and then sell the hull. My wife can't see having a "fleet" and in reality, if I could have two, I would be more inclined to have another 17 for the thin stuff.
Now, I'm not so sure I want to remove stuff off her (except the new electronics) in hopes someone would pick her up and enjoy her as is.
This 21 though would work well with the full platform, trim tabs and new electronics so the original idea isn't dead yet.
Lastly, I started a new job about 6 months ago and I need to be conscious of unnecessary capital outlay. So for now, the ROM3 is lookin' pretty good since she needs nothing she doesn't already have.
I'm always looking.
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Definitely an Explorer. :thumleft:
And an Aquasport at that. I can see possibilities 8)
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Mine did not (nor does this one probably) have a hatch in the cabin so I looked long and hard for a hatch that would fit in the area of the sitting bench up front - the area is too small for a standard 14" square. I finally found a half circle hatch and cut it in. Made all the difference - I unsnap all but the corner snaps on the front cushion and then raise the hatch. The cushion acts as a wind scoop to channel air down into the hatch. They don't give away those hatches though :cry:
Then you need a windowshaker AC unit that'll fit in the cabin doorway, a filler for the rest of the doorway and a small Honda 2000i generator and you'll be set for camping 8) Kind of a pain to carry the stuff around but well worth it at night.
Oh and don't forget the full bimini and complete vinyl/screen - worth every penny.
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Don't know about the AC (sounds good though) but at the very least a bridge enclosure.
Rick, do you think the specs in the 92 brochure are close to this 91? The aerial shot must be of a 23 (or bigger) wac.
How is your anchor line stowed? Hatch or is there a hawse pipe that the rode goes through?
If it's still around, we are heading to Sand Key to see some friends on Labor Day. I'll get a close look, pics, tap the transom and see if I'm just living a fantasy.
Thanks again for all the input.
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Hey Bob, have you seen this one?
http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/boa/1299180150.html (http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/boa/1299180150.html)
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Haven't seen that one yet Lewis but I'm looking for a little less work.
It appears that a lot of the work is cosmetic but......
Looking at that home made hardtop makes me wonder what other surprises await. :scratch:
I'm thinking that the 21 would fit about right and as Rick mentioned, the 23 would be the ticket but...... finding one is the problem. I have yet to see one like his.
Thanks. :thumright:
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Don't know about the AC (sounds good though) but at the very least a bridge enclosure.
Rick, do you think the specs in the 92 brochure are close to this 91? The aerial shot must be of a 23 (or bigger) wac.
How is your anchor line stowed? Hatch or is there a hawse pipe that the rode goes through?
If it's still around, we are heading to Sand Key to see some friends on Labor Day. I'll get a close look, pics, tap the transom and see if I'm just living a fantasy.
Thanks again for all the input.
Usually an aftermarket AC unit fits over the hatch in the cabin and blows from above but these smaller explorers don't have a big seat up front for a big hatch (the 250 is laid out differently so it does have a big hatch and I'm not sure about the 275), so you gotta do what you gotta do. I leave the AC unit in the garage during the fall, winter and spring - really only need it in the dead of summer.
The anchor line enters via a covered hawse pipe into a stowage spot just in front of the cabin front wall - fills in the area left by the wall and the prow of the hull. One thing I found I that there was no drainage from that area - I had to drill a drain hole in the bottom to the bilge. There is access to the rode storage from the front of the cabin - mine is a snap down peice of vinyl:
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/rkins/cockpitminuscushions3.jpg)
I think the first pic in the 92 phamplet is a 230. If you look at the Explorer page you can see the difference between the 230 and the 250 hull - MAJOR - no strakes and a very sharp entry on the 250.
I would say the specs are probably close or the same. Seems like the front halves of the 230 and 210 are the same, its the cockpit that is shorter on the 210.
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Just my $0.02-
As far as a WAC placing you further forward and lessening the ride quality, in my experience, with all the weight of the cabin on the bow, handling the chop is about the same if not a little better in a WAC as opposed to a C/C.
One thing I do notice about a WAC's ride quality- all that weight on the bow tends to make the boat "plow" through the water. It rides funny, especially when you're used to a C/C. Not a rough ride, but definitey not the responsive ride you would expect out of a C/C. Trim Tabs are absolutely necessary.
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Unfortunately you're part of the weight forward when you're standing at the wheel. In a Center Console you're back in the rear 1/3 as you stand behind the wheel - in the explorer, you're in the forward 1/3 and as you know, that's not the best place to be on a boat in rough water.
The explorer should come with a helm enclosure standard as ANY wave of about 3 ft is going to cover the helm and the rest of the boat in spray - ask my wife, she's been soaked many times as she sat in the back as we were underway.
In a small sea the boat handles fine, anything over 2s and you're in for a rough ride and a wet one.
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Just my $0.02-
One thing I do notice about a WAC's ride quality- all that weight on the bow tends to make the boat "plow" through the water. It rides funny, especially when you're used to a C/C. Not a rough ride, but definitey not the responsive ride you would expect out of a C/C. Trim Tabs are absolutely necessary.
I have to agree.
I noticed the same feeling while piloting the 225 in Charleston. I've been running around in a CC for so many years that it was indeed a new sensation. I'm sure I'd get use to it with seat time.
As far as trim tabs go, I'm a firm believer in the benefits they provide. They made the 222 a completely different riding hull by bringing the hull closer to level rather than bow high and removing list. Whatever hull type I end up with, it will have tabs.
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The explorer should come with a helm enclosure standard as ANY wave of about 3 ft is going to cover the helm and the rest of the boat in spray - ask my wife, she's been soaked many times as she sat in the back as we were underway.
In a small sea the boat handles fine, anything over 2s and you're in for a rough ride and a wet one.
Yep,
That's the CCP also. My wife now moves to the rear when it gets sloppy and dons the rain gear.
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I dug up this post rather than start a new one.
I drove down to Seminole early today and took a hard look at the 21 mentioned above. Took a sea trial in the Gulf (mill pond conditions).
It has issues. :(
The deck and transom are solid but... it appears that the cap, where it joins the transom at the cutout is starting to separate. This area is covered with a piece of angled plastic. It appears (but I'm not sure) that the cap was laid on top of the transom at this point and caulked along the seam. Then the plastic cap was riveted over the top of the connection.
The hydraulic steering turns great to starboard but not good at all to port.
A lot of little things broken off after 18 years of use. Capt's helm seat, support for cabin door top hatch yada yada yada.
So I thanked the guy for his time and...
I bought it :scratch:
Since this post is worthless without pics, I'll attach a couple tomorrow in a new post to give you guys a laugh.
It's been 13 years but once again, I'm the owner of two Aquas.
I need my head examined :idea:
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Congrats :scratch:
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CB: This post is worthless without pictures! :lol: :lol:
Congrats on the new addition! Got your WAC - or are ya just WAC-y?
Can't wait for the pics... :shock: :scratch: :wink:
See ya on the water!
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Here ya go.
Some from the original link and a couple three from ones the PO sent.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Boat3.jpg?t=1252281535)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Boat2.jpg?t=1252281660)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Boat1.jpg?t=1252281726)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/PICT0001.jpg?t=1252280854)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/PICT0003.jpg?t=1252281834)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Boat11.jpg?t=1252281905)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Boat10.jpg?t=1252282013)
She's in good shape structurally.
I discovered the problem with the hard to port steering and it will require a little work but little or no cost.
My son says he smelled gas in the cabin so I'm going to pull the tank cover and expect the worst/usual. It needs to be re-caulked anyway.
Guess I'll have to either learn about Yamaha engines (original factory issue) or mount my 5 year newer Rude.
A lot of waxing and new Bimini top with enclosure and I'll be on my way.
More to follow.
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Hey, you scored a couple fishing rods! Looks pretty good to me - not a makeover boat - more of a cosmetic thing. :thumleft:
More of the BIG question - are you going to change the name? :shock:
See ya on the water!
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More of the BIG question - are you going to change the name? :shock:
Already started buying the booze :wink:
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Looks good Bob :!: :!:
No bottom paint :thumleft:
Cabin looks identical to mine to include the light and the water stain on the carpet under the windows :wink:
Seems they changed the lockers at the aft and narrowed the transom opening. You have the same fishbox in the sole in front of the engine. I would like to know what yours looks like with both the little and BIG covers removed.
The helm area is classic Explorer. Seems the boat is identical to mine from the helm area forward. If I get a chance I'll take a picture of the half round hatch I installed in the forward seat and post it. Makes all the difference in cooling the cabin. Really low profile too so you can sit on the cushion with only a little "bump".
So that is where they mount the windsheild wiper - hmmm, my buddy gave me one, I'll have to pull the access panel down in the cabin and see what kind of room I have.
Congratulations Bob.
In the pix, the guy across the street has an Osprey :thumleft: , another potential member.
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Looks good Bob :!: :!:
No bottom paint :thumleft:
Cabin looks identical to mine to include the light and the water stain on the carpet under the windows :wink:
Seems they changed the lockers at the aft and narrowed the transom opening. You have the same fishbox in the sole in front of the engine. I would like to know what yours looks like with both the little and BIG covers removed.
The helm area is classic Explorer. Seems the boat is identical to mine from the helm area forward. If I get a chance I'll take a picture of the half round hatch I installed in the forward seat and post it. Makes all the difference in cooling the cabin. Really low profile too so you can sit on the cushion with only a little "bump".
So that is where they mount the windsheild wiper - hmmm, my buddy gave me one, I'll have to pull the access panel down in the cabin and see what kind of room I have.
Congratulations Bob.
In the pix, the guy across the street has an Osprey :thumleft: , another potential member.
Thanks Rick.
A lot of boats with bottom paint out there. I got lucky with this one. :)
With a good waxing the hull will look almost new with only minor scratches but no real deep chips.
Even the newer ones seem to have those water stains,go figure. :scratch:
The lockers are angled and there is a fair amount of room in each (relatively speaking). The starboard has a battery, 3 position switch and the fuel filter/water separator. The port has the oil tank and another battery.
When you pull the smaller cover, a compartment (fish box/storage?) with drain appears. Pull the larger, and you expose the bilge pumps (main and bait tank) and you then can remove the compartment with the drain. The area between both stringers is exposed from the tank coffin to the hull drain with a large portion of the transom exposed. This really let me see the transom and tap on almost the entire face from both inside and out. It is extremely clean in all of these areas and was a big factor in the purchase of this older hull. I'll post a pic of this area.
It is classic Explorer/XF. I like the storage/livewell areas under the seats and they extend all the way forward. The lines are much cleaner on this style than the later "Wellsports". The decals on the helm read "210 Walkaround" and everything is factory applied including the "chrome" Aqua badges. The port side decal has some damage but I'm not sure there's a suitable replacement available (I will check eBay).
There's three small storage areas under the cushions and the fourth in front of the console. Probably could be a sink in later models?
The wiper motor doesn't appear to be too intrusive and it appears brand new. The PO said that's the way it came and he never replaced it. It does work.
Photos of the hatch would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, there were really three Aquas on that block :o and I saw several more while out on the sea trial. The area is crawling with them. The 170 in the pic belongs to a relative of the PO and the street was crowed as I hooked up to take mine away. Selling of the boat brought out everyone. It was quite the scene with all the different family members present. A very nice experience and a good omen IMHO.
Both the CCP and the 210 are now parked in the back yard and it becomes apparent that they share a common lineage. The lines, the construction and the style are all there. I realize that a 222XF would be the sister to my CCP but I think the layout of the 210 is improved while retaining the same solid build quality. It took a while but I found what I really always wanted.
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A lot of boats with bottom paint out there. I got lucky with this one. :)
With a good waxing the hull will look almost new with only minor scratches but no real deep chips.
Even the newer ones seem to have those water stains,go figure. :scratch:
The lockers are angled and there is a fair amount of room in each (relatively speaking). The starboard has a battery, 3 position switch and the fuel filter/water separator. The port has the oil tank and another battery.
Here are the lockers on my 230:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68Wifes_Fav_Speed.JPG)
I have 2 batteries and the trim tab pump in the Starboard locker - you need a shoe horn to get those batteries in there - a big pain. The oil tank (I think 2 gallon) and fuel filter are in the other locker.
When you pull the smaller cover, a compartment (fish box/storage?) with drain appears. Pull the larger, and you expose the bilge pumps (main and bait tank) and you then can remove the compartment with the drain. The area between both stringers is exposed from the tank coffin to the hull drain with a large portion of the transom exposed. This really let me see the transom and tap on almost the entire face from both inside and out. It is extremely clean in all of these areas and was a big factor in the purchase of this older hull. I'll post a pic of this area.
Sounds like what I have too.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68230_bilge5.JPG)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68230_bilge3.JPG)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68230_bilge1.JPG)
It is classic Explorer/XF. I like the storage/livewell areas under the seats and they extend all the way forward. The lines are much cleaner on this style than the later "Wellsports". The decals on the helm read "210 Walkaround" and everything is factory applied including the "chrome" Aqua badges. The port side decal has some damage but I'm not sure there's a suitable replacement available (I will check eBay).
There's three small storage areas under the cushions and the fourth in front of the console. Probably could be a sink in later models?
Like these: (I have almost forgotten what I store in them now - since I never go in them)
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/rkins/cockpitminuscushions1.jpg)
The wiper motor doesn't appear to be too intrusive and it appears brand new. The PO said that's the way it came and he never replaced it. It does work.
I'd be interested in what you see when you take the access panels down below the helm - the covers for the wiring and below the dash. Mine was a rats nest.
Photos of the hatch would be greatly appreciated..
I'll try to remember to do that.
Yes, there were really three Aquas on that block :o and I saw several more while out on the sea trial. The area is crawling with them. The 170 in the pic belongs to a relative of the PO and the street was crowed as I hooked up to take mine away. Selling of the boat brought out everyone. It was quite the scene with all the different family members present. A very nice experience and a good omen IMHO.
Both the CCP and the 210 are now parked in the back yard and it becomes apparent that they share a common lineage. The lines, the construction and the style are all there. I realize that a 222XF would be the sister to my CCP but I think the layout of the 210 is improved while retaining the same solid build quality. It took a while but I found what I really always wanted.
I think you'll like the boat - I like mine but it is a bunch of work compared to the 170 - it is HUGE compared to the 170 in every way; trailering, launching, cleaning, topping off. But once I'm out on it, it's great. I can almost put the 170 in the cockpit - need 4 more feet.
Was the PO the original owner? Maybe he has some original documents?
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Nice boat Bob! Look forward to seeing more pics.
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Great looking boat Capt.Bob :salut: If I ever upgrade that's the model I woold like so I could extend my boating season which is too short with my 170 :(
What's the dry weight of that model?
Marc..
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Thanks Marcq.
From the info in the resource section, it's 3100 lbs.
That's 900 lbs. heavier than my CCP but who's counting? 8)
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Congrats Bob :thumright: Looks like you have a nice rig!! Love the fishing room in the back which the CCP's are lacking. I guess this means you won't be a member of the CCP club anymore :cry:
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Thanks JD.
I won't be giving up my CCP membership for a while.
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Well I fixed the steering problem easily enough. The starboard side support bracket was frozen to the support rod and caused the steering to bind when turning to port.
I used a propane torch to heat the bracket (aluminum) and it came right off. Cleaned everything up and re-greased. Operates smoothly in both directions.
I pulled the deck hatch over the fuel tank.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04839.jpg?t=1252792473)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04838.jpg?t=1252792619)
Doesn't appear to be in too bad of shape.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04840.jpg?t=1252792698)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04841.jpg?t=1252792767)
Looking down at the tank and the sticker in the far end. Sticker is stamped 105 gal. capacity with a 11/90 build date.
It's mounted completely different than my CCP. Thick rubber straps are against each end and underneath for support. The two aluminum straps over the top have the same thick rubber underneath them also. Tank feels "V" shaped on the bottom.
The hatch pulled right off after removing the screws and was missing sealant almost all the way around. I would have to think that water entered the tank compartment without much trouble. It appears that a pipe connects the front bilge to the rear and lies under the tank compartment. There appears to be gas floating (smells like it too) in the front bilge which currently has a small amount of water in it. I'm guessing the tube under the tank must be penetrated thus allowing fuel to enter. :scratch:
Can the tank be leak tested in place (with fuel)? If not, I'll just have to drain and pull.
Aside from that, the hull appears in excellent shape on the inside.
Rick, here is the rear hatch section. Appears like your's but I don't have two hoses coming off the live well pump like you do. Is that second hose on your's a wash down?
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04842.jpg?t=1252792863)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04844.jpg?t=1252793039)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04848.jpg?t=1252793128)
I'm assuming this is a filter for the raw water to the live well. :scratch:
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My thru-hull had a plastic valve on it - members here caught that so I changed it out. The livewell pump that was attached to it didn't work. The output off that did have a "Y" on it, 1 going to the livewell and the other going to a washdown hose. The livewell pump was a 700 gph so it wasn't going to provide much pressure for washdown that's for sure.
I replaced the ballcock with a real one and put a real pump on it for washdown. Johnson 5.2 gpm 70 psi pump. Don't have the hose to the livewell connected to anything now.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68raw_water_washdown5.JPG)
The previous owner had a hose connected to the bottom of the fishwell and that was connected to another small pump that was connected to a shower head - so I guess he filled the fishwell with fresh water and that was his fresh water washdown :roll:
I put another pump in the bilge (3.2 gpm - to right in pic)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68fresh_water_tank03.JPG)
and replaced the fishwell with a 40 gal water tank.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68fresh_water_tank11.JPG)
The green and brown tank to the right in the last pic is a fiberglass propane tank for grilling. 8)
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Tank Cover: Bob, the tank cover looks pretty good except right around the deck plate opening, where some delamination has occured. You might want to think about just taking the 6" deck plate out, and replacing it with an 8" deck plate. That extra 1" radius should get all the delam areas. Just remember to seal the edges with epoxy after you cut the new hole so it won't delaminate again in the future.
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Will do.
Those things ain't cheap for just a hole. :roll:
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See if you like any of these:
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw ... acat=26443 (http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=deck+plate+8&_sacat=26443&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313&_dmpt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&_odkw=deck+plate&_osacat=26443)
Good luck!
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Thanks CJ
I began the task of draining the tank tonight. Got out about 75 gals so far. Not hard work but I just don't currently have enough containers for the full tank.
Pics to follow when I pull the tank.
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Taking the tank to empty takes a while, doesn't it? I figured about 60 gallons was in mine when it started leaking. Filled up every container I had, and all the vehicles, and all the other gas-powered stuff - then gave about 25 gallons away to neighbors. Who would have thought one would worry about having TOO MUCH gas? :scratch: Unless, of course, last night was chili night... :oops:
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Well we mowed the yard with a couple of gallons yesterday. Thing is, I try and use as much gas up as we approach winter because the lawn equipment just sits.
Looks like my son will have plenty for school though :roll:
If the PO was truthful when he said he topped off the tank, I still have another 25 gals. to go.
Hope that Ranger likes the stuff because my Dmax just turns up its nose when it gets around gasoline. :wink:
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Well the fuel keeps coming and I've exhausted the containers. Hopefully by the weekend, I can empty some into my son's Ranger.
So with the draining at a standstill (there can't be much left) I started on the task of removing the tank tie downs.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04840.jpg?t=1253666695)
Ya gotta love those guys on the assembly line. Always kidding around.
Let's put the tank in first, screw 'r down and let the next poor bastard (insert my name here) take 'r out.
It appears (and confidence level is high) that they installed and attached those metal straps you see on top of the tank and then installed the deck.
So, I have been struggling to remove the eight screws holding the straps (with thick rubber strips underneath) out using a phillips driver bit and tiny 1/4" open end wrench.
I removed four of the buggers but the remaining ones now are almost seated against the bottom of the deck.
I'll need to cut off a portion of the screw and use, say a small pair of vice grips to continue to extract the screw.
Re-attaching the straps? Haven't got there yet. :scratch:
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Bob - just cut the straps. When you put the tank back in, bend the straps up 90 degrees, drill a hole in each one, and put a long bolt through the holes. Then tighten the nut on the bolt to secure the straps. You can leave the screws on the sides as-is.
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j7/GoneFission/CIMG0043.jpg)
Good luck!
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John,
That makes sense. These "straps" are flat stock about 1/8" thick. Certainally not unbendable but it should probably be done in a vice.
I'm going to give it another try tonight and remove the 4 remaining screws. If the tank turns out to be good, I might still replace it due to it's age. I've kicked around several ideas and I'll feel better with a new tank underneath me.
I don't even know if I'll use those straps at this point but if I do, the bending and bolt idea will be used.
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Well my son and I pulled out the tank tonight.
Here's what it looked like
You can clearly see the "waterline" around the tank
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Tank.jpg?t=1254271641)
Here's one leak source.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Tankfrontleak.jpg?t=1254271737)
This is the end facing the bow.
Here's the bow end of the coffin.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/coffinfront.jpg?t=1254271952)
That's fuel and water.
There is a board glassed in that the tank sits on and it runs the length of the coffin but stops about 4" from each end. The idea (it appears) is that water can pass under the board from the front bilge to the rear bilge. Problem is, excess water piles up in the front, is then trapped in the rubber straps and, well you know the rest.
The tank, as usual is in great shape except where the water made contact in the bottom front face and under the first strap heading towards the stern.
Here's the coffin end facing the stern.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/coffinback.jpg?t=1254272469)
The bottom support board is a little closer (light area in center of photo is drain hole) but still allows water to come in contact with the tank. Corrosion was not too bad in this area though.
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Here's one more showing the front third of the coffin from the top. The white areas on the straps is oxidized aluminum blended with fuel and water. :(
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Coffin.jpg?t=1254273827)
The wires on the right came from the sender. The green running along the bottom is the tank ground.
The side braces (which the top braces also attach) are coated with resin but no cloth. They are in good shape with no rot. There are two more toward the back.
You can access the hoses and drains under the seat quite easily with the tank out.
Too bad they stuck it right there. :roll:
Just curious.
Has anyone else seen this type of tank mounting in their boat?
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Took off a few of the panels in the cabin today.
Typical "rat's nest"
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/InstrumentPanel1.jpg?t=1255306584)
Nice rusty radio
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/InstrumentPanel2.jpg?t=1255306672)
Last one.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/InstrumentPanel3.jpg?t=1255306794)
This is the inner hull on the starboard side.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Starboardsideinnerhull.jpg?t=1255306878)
It appears that there is additional wire for the control lines going back to the motor. This will help if I decide to mount a bracket on back. I may need longer shift and throttle cables though. Don't see a whole lot of foam in this area. :scratch:
This again is the inner hull taken from the port side.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Innerhullportside2.jpg?t=1255307248)
A little lower. It looks like someone left some ss hose clamps in there.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Innerhullportside.jpg?t=1255307393)
Again, not much on the foam.
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Took off a few of the panels in the cabin today.
Typical "rat's nest"
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/InstrumentPanel1.jpg?t=1255306584)
Looks like mine except there was an actual rat's nest in the corner :shock: Luckily he wasn't living there anymore.
Mine doesn't have wood though - maybe the PO installed that? Mine has aluminum "L" brackets. Also, my carpet is burned where the switches are - maybe the rat?
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Picked up the new tank from RDS today.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Newtank.jpg?t=1255656101)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Newtank3.jpg?t=1255656265)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Newtank2.jpg?t=1255656333)
At 55 gals. just a tad more than half of the factory size.
I may not be the first but I'm in a very small group of owners that has reduced the size of their tank. I don't recall anyone else doing ths, but I just will not use a 100 gallons of fuel during any given time. It means I'll fuel up each time out (which I always have done) and hopefully try and keep as fresh as possible fuel on board.
The additional fuel pick up is for draining purposes during the non use times.
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I guess you'll have some more storage room now?
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I guess so.
Tank length is a little longer than half. I'm toying with the idea of sealing off the forward section and locating the tank there and placing the batteries in a sealed rear section or reversing the two. :scratch:
Anyway,with the front coming through, I'll have some cool weather to play with it this weekend.
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My batteries take a shoe horn to get in or out - if I could move them to a bigger place I think I would too.
You're right, I don't think I'll ever use the 140 gals in my 230 all at one time - but you never know.....
I found out what happened to my nav lights - took it apart this morning and it was just a dirty connection at the bulb. :cheers:
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I haven't removed the port side one yet. The Yamaha oil tank is also in there and it looks like one of those wooden puzzles that once you take it apart it doesn't want to fit back together. I would have liked to placed the batteries in the helm area but where there might be room, access is limited so the fuel coffin may be the next best thing. :idea:
I agonized over the tank size but economics drove the train on that. Besides, I've been monitoring my fuel use in the CCP for 13 years (Flow Scan) and I have a good handle on that vessel. I can't imagine that the 21 will be tremendously different. I'm going to run the Yamaha for a while (fingers crossed) with the flow scan and see. I guess I can always throw in a couple of portable 6 gals just like in the olden days :roll:
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Picked up the new tank from RDS today.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Newtank.jpg?t=1255656101)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Newtank3.jpg?t=1255656265)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Newtank2.jpg?t=1255656333)
At 55 gals. just a tad more than half of the factory size.
I may not be the first but I'm in a very small group of owners that has reduced the size of their tank. I don't recall anyone else doing ths, but I just will not use a 100 gallons of fuel during any given time. It means I'll fuel up each time out (which I always have done) and hopefully try and keep as fresh as possible fuel on board.
The additional fuel pick up is for draining purposes during the non use times.
I did the same on my CCP Bob. The 200 CCP came with a 75 gallon tank and the one I replaced it with was a 55 gallon as well. Don't have any regrets because I don't plan to go miles out from land :!: Also, it still costs enough just to fill a 55 gallon tank up :roll:
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Don't you know it JD. :cry:
Also, with all the concern about ethanol fuel and the availability of plain ol' gas decreasing daily, I wanted to use my fuel up as quickly as possible. I just need to watch it closely. Like you, I'm staying close to home for the cost reasons as much as anything.
I don't want to give up boating because of the extra fuel expense so I'll just do with a little less travel but still have the same time on the water.
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You could have replaced the original size tank (to stay original) and just put in what you think you'd burn.
Wouldn't have gotten that extra storage tho.
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You could have replaced the original size tank (to stay original) and just put in what you think you'd burn.
Wouldn't have gotten that extra storage tho.
Granted, but it was an additional $300 bucks for the same size(original). I thought I could put the extra cash to better use than "air storage". :wink:
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With the warming weather (well here in Fla. anyway) I took a couple of pics of the slow progress in the 91 retrofit.
Radio, sounder, compass and GPS moved from the CCP
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00012.jpg)
Forward section of tank coffin (freed up space due to smaller tank) ready for batteries. Red/blk stripe #8 AWG wire is ground. OK I'm cheap.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00007.jpg)
New tank (with compulsory leaf debris) in place.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00008.jpg)
A long way yet to go.
I can't imagine re-building one from scratch. My hat's off to you guys. :salut:
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:thumleft:
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I picked up a couple of helm seats for the 91 WAC.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04980.jpg)
They're a different color but they are fairly close in shape and size to OEM.
You can see the difference in the openings and a very slight shape change (?) but...
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04981.jpg)
All in all they're close enough to work with the factory cushions.
Sliders fit also.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04982.jpg)
Best part of the deal is they were only $27.50 each including shipping from
Marine Connection Liquidators in Fort Pierce Fla.
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I picked up a couple of helm seats for the 91 WAC.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04980.jpg)
They're a different color but they are fairly close in shape and size to OEM.
You can see the difference in the openings and a very slight shape change (?) but...
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04981.jpg)
All in all they're close enough to work with the factory cushions.
Sliders fit also.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04982.jpg)
Best part of the deal is they were only $27.50 each including shipping from
Marine Connection Liquidators in Fort Pierce Fla.
Excellent deal on the seats (including shipping)! Seeing as the upholstery and sliders fit...
The tank install looks good Bob, just like she came from the factory! :thumleft:
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Weather has been good for the last couple of days so I tried my hand at repairing the tank coffin cover and adding the extra hatches.
Background... Since I shortened the tank, I moved the batteries into the tank coffin. I cut in an access hatch (off the CCP). In order to minimize hatch holes, I ended up rotating the cover 180 degrees and cut the large hatch over the factory deck plate that allowed access to the tank fuel line and gauge sender. Since the tank was shifted (due to its shorter length) I needed to add another deck plate to allow access to the new sender/fuel line location. This still left the factory installed center deck plate (original access to the fuel fill and vent). Access to these now comes from the battery well hatch by the removal of a false bulk head between the tank and battery compartment.
That left the original hatch staring at the top center of the tank (but allowing access to the splice on the sending unit). Rather than close up that hole, I left it for ventilation while the boat is parked. Hopefully, it will help with air circulation and keep the tank coffin a little dryer.
Original pic of removed tank cover. This is the center deck plate
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04839.jpg)
Center deck plate repair.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00050.jpg)
Completed cover from the back
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00059.jpg)
Cover fitted in place
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00063.jpg)
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Good job Robert :salut:
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Nice work! :thumleft:
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Very nice Capt. Bob! :thumleft:
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Looks good. Doesn't even look like the same bilge :cheers:
Never heard of that brand of seacock - is it metal?
Is that bare spot in front of the bilge pump where the float switch used to be? Where is it now?
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Thanks guys.
A lot of the crud was fuel mixed with bilge water that caused the black staining. The fuel tank coffin had the same crap. :puker:
Marelon is a composite material (glass fused nylon :scratch: ). I vacillated between this and the standard bronze fittings. It's very light and easy to work with and if you check the link below, is approved for use in the boating industry. I did a lot of research and spoke with the manufacturer before making the choice.
http://www.forespar.com/MarelonPlumbing ... bout.shtml (http://www.forespar.com/MarelonPlumbing/marelonAbout.shtml)
The rectangular spot without paint was (I'm guessing) where the factory original float switch resided. I'll assume the PO replaced both the switch and OEM pump with the one you now see. Theoretically, you don't need a switch with this type of "automatic" pump. When you place the pump in auto, it runs every 2.5 minutes (for 1 sec.) to "sense" for resistance caused by the presence of water. If water is present, it continues to run till it overcomes the resistance and returns to its "automatic" cycling mode. Rule claims that energy consumed for this automation is minimal. :?
http://www.rule-industries.com/products ... /index.htm (http://www.rule-industries.com/products/pumps/bilge_pumps/index.htm)
Its not very loud in this mode but it seems like a weird way of doing things. It does however remove the chance of float switch failure from the equation. I did read that some boaters using this style pump add an additional float switch to the mix to limit the cycling. : My forward bilge does have a float switch.
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Since the 91 WAC didn't come with a ventilation hatch like later models, I always planned on adding one at some point in time.
Fearless Leader's (Rick K.) 92 EX didn't have one either so he added a very retro looking hatch. He contacted me a while back and said he ran across another one like it while shopping at a Marine Discount store. I picked it up but just got around to cutting out the cabin for it today.
Inside insert. I used this as a template for the cutout.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04997.jpg)
Line drawn and taped for surface protection. Notice starter hole in lower corner.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04999.jpg)
Cutout complete.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC05000.jpg)
Dry fitting. Opened.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC05001.jpg)
Closed.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC05002.jpg)
I still need to seal the core material with resin and mount the hatch but it's a start.
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Nice looking hatch :thumleft: , is it transparent ?
Marc..
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Yes it is (more opaque maybe).
I thought the glass had a protective cover on it (I thought the salesperson said it was "smoked") when I first saw it but I believe Rick's is the same.
Maybe I'm wrong. :scratch:
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Looks nice Bob - for me it was scary drilling that first BIG hole, 'cause then you're committted.
It's the same as mine - let's light in but you can't see through it - translucent.
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Well it's been some time since I posted any new developments with my 91.
I finished up the helm station (for now) several months ago. Nothing spectacular and tried to keep at least a small percentage of the area like it came from the factory.
I've replaced all the fuse holders and toggle switches. Where the PO had a rusting FM radio, I filled the cut out with my Flow Scan unit, a fuse holder and toggle.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00082.jpg)
I also added a Datel digital voltmeter and a battery percent charge meter. That meter resides where the factory hour meter was located. It had stopped working at 640 hrs. and who knows when that happened. <!-- s:scratch: -->:scratch:<!-- s:scratch: -->
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00084.jpg)
I relocated the live well from the CCP. It takes up some space but it also frees up the factory well for dry storage. You can see the mold growing on the overflow hose which I connected to the factory thru hull discharge.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00076.jpg)
Also, for those members who pilot the 215 EX, you know about the removable/folding transom board. My WAC had evidence of one being in place (plastic channels on both sides) so using some scrap aluminum channel I had, I replaced the plastic.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00080.jpg)
Using some scrap Starboard, I fashioned a panel but the control wiring/gas line/steering hydraulic hoses/battery cables put too much pressure on the panel so I fabbed some offset supports on the panel thus moving it out away from the cables. I added a second panel and mounted some plastic rod holders. This panel folds like the factory one in order to allow the motor to achieve full tilt. The motor will fully trim up without lowering the top panel or removing the whole mess. The entire two piece panel removes easily.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00074.jpg)
Lastly, I broke down and bought a wash down/bait well pump and mounted in the storage area where one of the factory batteries was located. I left enough wire (black and red coiled) to allow relocation in the bilge if necessary.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00078.jpg)
The jury's still out on this rig. I've never own one before so until I can get the boat in the water, I won't know.
The overflow discharge (bait well) has been reduced to fit the thru hull so I don't know if I can run the well and not have it overflow out the top. <!-- s:( -->:(<!-- s:( -->
Hopefully, some day I'll be rich and can re-power the WAC. Then I can clean up that mess in the compartment.
Time will tell
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Some nice upgrades :thumright:
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Lookin' good Bob :thumright: :thumleft:
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Lookin' good Bob! Nice makeover. :thumleft:
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When I bought the 91 I noticed that there was some "damage" to the plastic molding that covers the connection between the top of the transom and the cap. I didn't take a photo of it before I removed the section of molding. What I'm looking for is some ideas from the group as to the "repair".
I know how I'd do it if I removed the motor and the remaining molding. I'd do away with the molding and glass the cap and transom together, like it exist on my CCP but....
I'm not at that point yet so I need to repair the left side but don't want to do a half ass job. That stated.....
Right side with factory molding in place
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00090.jpg)
Left side molding removed
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00091.jpg)
When I removed the molding, the bonding/filler material went out to the edge of the transom. I chiseled it back before I took the photo. The rough cut and grinding on both the transom and the cap was done at the factory and hidden by the molding.
You can see the grinding a little better here, along with the rivets that secured the molding and the "shadow" it left on the gelcoat after 19 years.
There is about a 1/2" between the end of the cap and the back of the transom.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00087.jpg)
This gap, along with the space between the cap and transom themselves was filled with some fiberglass (I'm guessing) concoction. One question is, what should I use to re-fill this space? I'm thinking resin with cabosil or maybe something that's easier to sand and shape. Another question would be, has anyone seen the molding (I really doubt it) or know where this may be found?
Thanks in advance.
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Well the more I thought about it, the more I realized this brilliant idea wouldn't work
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00068.jpg)
So...
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC05168.jpg)
This is the abridged version, running to the combo bait and wash down pump.
Hopefully it will work OK.
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Hey Capt. Bob
boat looks great, congratulations, I'm looking to buy a 1993 WAC 210 explorer, looks exactly like the one you got but without the anchor pedestal, it has the original '93 Yamaha (unknown hours), the boat looks really good for its age, seems to be very solid, floor has a small soft area right in front of the front deck hatch.
There's a couple of issues that I would like everybodys opinion about, It has bottom paint that seems to be coming off, it feels ashy to the touch and my finger got all covered in it, theres also a few tinny hair cracks on the floor near the big cover over the bilge pump/fish box and also a visible crack (about 6 inches long) on the inside part of the transom, where the transom meets the floor, underneath the engine upper mounting bolts, it seems to be a stress crack? I assume, and I don't think it goes all the way to the core, since the transom seems to be solid.
The guy is asking $7000 for it, what do you guys think?
here's a few pics of it, thanks in advance for your replys.
(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r10/dmaschi/IMAG0020.jpg)
(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r10/dmaschi/as210.jpg)
(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r10/dmaschi/97144817_4thumb_550x410.jpg)
(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r10/dmaschi/97144817_5thumb_550x410.jpg)(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r10/dmaschi/IMAG0020-1.jpg)
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Welcome to the forum!Nice looking rig for a 93,I wouldn't worry about the bottom paint,if its coming off that will make it easier to get it off,I would suggest taking the boat to a third party Yamaha tech and get the motor checked out,it will be money well spent. :salut:
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thanks Pete, I'll keep that in mind, what do you think about the price?
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I'm looking to buy a 1993 WAC 210 explorer, looks exactly like the one you got but without the anchor pedestal, it has the original '93 Yamaha (unknown hours), the boat looks really good for its age, seems to be very solid, floor has a small soft area right in front of the front deck hatch.
First off Dan,
Welcome aboard. :salut:
When you get a chance, tell us something about yourself and post it in the "Intro" thread in the "Aqua Discussion" forum.
That stated, you're looking at what I call the transition model between the Express Fisherman of the 80s and the Explorer model from 92 thru 2005. 1994 saw the entry of the "Euro Transom" models and I want to say, 1996 saw the 215 EX which was the clone of the 210 Welcraft Coastal. So you're in a group of models with the older "flat" cabin line and the newer helm/cockpit. :thumleft:
There's a couple of issues that I would like everybodys opinion about, It has bottom paint that seems to be coming off, it feels ashy to the touch and my finger got all covered in it,
As Pete stated, that will help with removal if you choose or you can repaint. I believe Fearless Leader repainted his 92 WAC with an off white color that looks like the hull itself.
theres also a few tinny hair cracks on the floor near the big cover over the bilge pump/fish box and also a visible crack (about 6 inches long) on the inside part of the transom, where the transom meets the floor, underneath the engine upper mounting bolts, it seems to be a stress crack? I assume, and I don't think it goes all the way to the core, since the transom seems to be solid.
I'd like to see a pic before I comment but mine seems very strong also. I'll assume you "tap tested" the transom. A nice feature of this model is that one can get a good view below deck and inspect almost the entire transom and a good section of the stringers.
The guy is asking $7000 for it, what do you guys think?
The boat looks good in the pics but I'd bet you'll need to replace the tank. If the motor checks out, the trailer is in good (as in very)shape and the crack is superficial, then I would think $5000 would work for me. That gives you $2000 to play with and remember, the boat's only really worth what you are willing to pay. The soft spot in the deck sounds like it's on the tank coffin cover. Very repairable but just one more thing you'll need to do.
How's the cabin look?, hydraulic steering working/leaking?
Cabin cushions all there? Bimini?
$3500 sounding even better. Again, $7000 is a turn key classic in this style (again IMHO) so think hard what it will take to make it your own. :idea:
All in all, an excellent model IMHO but I'm quite bias. :roll:
Get more pics, water test, sniff test and eyeball first hand.
Good luck :thumright:
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Thanks Capt. Bob
I will introduce myself later, yes I'm planning on removing the bottom paint, it seems it will come off very easily with a sponge. To repaint it with off-white, (like Fearless Leader did) sounds like a good idea too.
I wil try to get more pictures and yes, I did "tap" test the transom area and it sounded solid. Aslo, I stood on the motor leg and put all my weight to rock the transom (that's 250lbs) The whole boat rocked but the transom didn't flex. I also checked the stringers through the bait well pump//fish box compartment and they also sounded solid.
You may be right, I may need to replace the fuel tank but I didn't smell any fuel or fumes inside the cabin or inside the side compartments where the batteries are, I did the "sniff" test after reading your post. The soft spot in the deck is right where you said it is, but that's an easy fix. I can do that myself.
The cabin looks extremely clean, it has all the cushions in good shape. There is a bimini top but it was rolled up so I need to inspect that also. There is the "classic" rust spot on the carpet underneath the dash but the owner just put two brand new Yamaha electronic gauges.
I have to check the hydraulic steering but I plan to do that when we do the sea trial next weekend. I agree that $7000 is too much money but I really like the boat and will probably offer him $6000 if everything checks out ok.
Thanks for all your comments and suggestions.
Dan
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Welcome aboard Dan :!: :!:
Boat looks decent and almost ready to hit the water this season. Then work on it in the winter.
I'd hand the boat off to someone to sandblast the bottom paint off and then recoat with Petit ablative.
The transom is poured in that year so it should be solid.
Those jump seats are unique - they'd be one of the first things I'd remove.
Overall I think she looks to be a good boat. I still have the original horses on my Explorer and it runs great.
I think your offer would not be a bad one.
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Sounds good Dan.
I like this model for its style and it has a decent amount of room in the cockpit and helm area.
I look forward to getting mine back in the water this spring and doing a few "overnighters".
It's also a tiny bit of the Aqua culture that was happening at the time so.... 8)
Good luck with the purchase and keep us in the loop.
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Thanks Rick!!
Yeah, I'm planning on removing the bottom paint as soon as I can, great news about the transom!!, thanks, and I agree with you 100% those jump seats are really ugly, I don't know what the guys was thinking when he put them on.. :scratch:
I'm also concerned about the engine, I'm planning on having the compression checked out before the sea trial, but I know those Yamaha's are great motors.
btw, I checked the NADA value for this boat with the Yamaha 200HP and it says $5800 Average retial without any option, so I think $6K is about right.
I'm also looking at a couple of '99 models, one is a 215 and the other is a 225, any comments greatly appreciated
And also Capt. Bob thanks a lot for your comments, the boat is surprisingly big on the cockpit for a 21 foot WA, I'll keep you guys updated, thanks.
Dan
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I'm also looking at a couple of '99 models, one is a 215 and the other is a 225, any comments greatly appreciated
Dan
As stated before and you being a Wellcraft owner, the Aqua 215 Explorer is a Wellcraft 210 Coastal re-badged. I would guess Genmar wanted a 21 foot WAC but really didn't need two different models, hence the 215 was born.
I looked at those, they have the same basic room as the older 210 Aquas but have a different profile (think pregnant guppy). The porta-potty hides away better in the 215 and I guess there is a "scoash" more room in the crotch and thigh of the cabin. It comes with a factory installed vent also. The walkaround lane is not as deep. The 215 looks good with the factory hardtop and not too bad in the water but I personally prefer the flatter design of the older Aqua EX/Walkarounds of the early 90s.
The 225 showed up in 94. It looked just like the 230 with a Euro transom. I rather like that (225) model. I looked at several in the 96/97 years. Decent cabin, good walkaround depth and a lot of cockpit space even with the Euro transom. That style transom is a love it/ hate it thing with some. Personally, I'm a full bracket/swim platform fan so I think it works and looks fine. It does reduce usable space but the 225 seems to have enough for my taste. It's a pretty boat both in and out of the water, if you're a WAC fan, and it is the model I really was looking to get.
All that stated, the WAC is an acquired taste. Mine comes from my early years in So. Fla. growing up with Woodsons and Thunderbirds. I always wanted a "Ranger Rick" Coral Key special. It's taken me almost 50 years to get one so I'm going to enjoy it for awhile (I hope).
Good luck and remember the fun is in the hunt. :wink:
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http://www.boatus.com/boatgroups/forum/ ... _boat2.jpg (http://www.boatus.com/boatgroups/forum/uploads/embibb/images/2010-01-25_003224_flipper_boat2.jpg)
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/Pete1681/2010-01-25_003224_flipper_boat2.jpg)
Hurry dad!!! Buds' in trouble!!!!
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http://www.boatus.com/boatgroups/forum/uploads/embibb/images/2010-01-25_003224_flipper_boat2.jpg
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/Pete1681/2010-01-25_003224_flipper_boat2.jpg)
Hurry dad!!! Buds' in trouble!!!!
1964 model year.
How 'bout that stern rail. 8)
Hey ain't that Bud back there? :scratch:
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You get the idea CB.Someones' in trouble,some where!!!Just get in!!! :batman:
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http://www.boatus.com/boatgroups/forum/uploads/embibb/images/2010-01-25_003224_flipper_boat2.jpg
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/Pete1681/2010-01-25_003224_flipper_boat2.jpg)
Hurry dad!!! Buds' in trouble!!!!
Pete that is one cool pic...thanks for sharing!
I LOVED Flipper....as a little boy, she was like Lassie, but no fur...
Thanks for the nostalgia... :wink:
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I'm also looking at a couple of '99 models, one is a 215 and the other is a 225, any comments greatly appreciated
Go with the 225,I've heard it a million times,i wish my boat was just 2 feet longer,don't settle for smaller only to wish you got the bigger boat down the road,plus you just can't go wrong with the 225 :lol:
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I'll bounce this thread back on topic with some work I've done over the last month.
First, this is the next step relating to an earlier post in this thread.
viewtopic.php?p=42564#p42564 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?p=42564#p42564)
I have filled in the gap between the cap and transom with two part epoxy resin.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00105.jpg)
Now I'm searching for some sort of material I can shape to cover the seam.
Taco makes a flexible vinyl but it isn't in the 90 degree shape I want. I'll find something.
I relocated the trim tabs from the CCP to the WAC.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00107.jpg)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00108.jpg)
I also fitted the Bimini from the CCP to the cockpit of the WAC.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00109.jpg)
Somewhat of a height difference but.....
I'm going to attempt to relocate the OEM helm Bimini forward about 6"-8" and I have room to slide the cockpit cover back about 12". By moving the helm top forward, the height will also increase and I feel that I can get the two to line up both somewhat horizontally and vertically. Not truly custom but sorta custom. :roll:
Anyway, that's the plan followed by saving enough coin to get a new helm top in the same color and material as the cockpit.
They tell me it's good to have goals. :wink:
Three more to perpetuate the fantasy.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00104.jpg)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00103.jpg)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00106.jpg)
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I have filled in the gap between the cap and transom with two part epoxy resin.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00105.jpg)
Now I'm searching for some sort of material I can shape to cover the seam.
Taco makes a flexible vinyl but it isn't in the 90 degree shape I want. I'll find something.
Capt. I had a similar problem with the plastic trim on the cutout in the anchor pulpit.I made a template and brought it to stainless fabricator he made one from my template it fit perfectly and will outlast me.Cost was $80 buckscheck it out
(http://i543.photobucket.com/albums/gg443/johne230/new%20canvas/IMG_0230.jpg)
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I'm looking at the black trim above the anchor, correct?
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Good to see you back at it CB :salut:
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Good to see you back at it CB :salut:
It has been 16 months since that boat and trailer moved.
25 feet. Small steps but steps none the less.
The motor started as if it last ran the day before and so far, everything is working. Fresh gas in the new tank, helm steering component rebuilt (no leakee any more) but the rear cylinder still weeps so that's on the list.
The goal, weather permitting is to splash her mid April and shake everything down. Hopefully the new thru hull/sea cock won't leak and the trim tabs keep trimmin'.
If all goes well, then I'll do a "Lewis" on her and make her look new. He let the genie out of the bottle. Now I just have to put him to work.
Too bad the owner won't look anywhere as good as the boat. :oops:
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I'm looking at the black trim above the anchor, correct?
Yes CB it is not a good picture the black trim is actually stainless,it is bent ninty degrees up into the cutout I caulked it in and had holes drilled and countersunk for screws all around.I hope to get down to the boat this weekend if I do I will get better pictures.
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Here is a better picture excuse the crud I just took the shrink wrap off did not clean and wax the boat yet.You should be able to do a formed 90 degree angle to fit your transom.
(http://i543.photobucket.com/albums/gg443/johne230/IMG_0523.jpg)
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OK so this is a little embarrassing :oops: but I just flat missed it when I bought the boat.
Not the end of the world as we know it so...
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00123.jpg)
What's the generic fix?
Gel coat patch/repair?
Poly/vinylester super duper two part mix?
Marine Tex? Two part epoxy?
Epoxy resin with cabosil?
I realize there are several ways to go and the area on each side is scratched also but after sitting for so long, I'd like to patch it and go.
The hull itself is fine and I'm only planning on compounding the boat. No paint in my future plus it's not in a high vis area so.....
I was kind of leaning toward the gel coat patch kits I've seen. I'm wondering if it will stay in place (not run) in that vertical position. :scratch:
I've never use it before so any thoughts are appreciated.
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Doesn't look like much more than cosmetic damage - so gelcoat patch should work. Do the typical prep (sand, wipe with acetone, etc) and spray with some gelcoat. Make sure you add wax to the gelcoat so it'll cure.
As an aside, we had a boat we used to beach all the time (lake boat, that's how you parked it) and we actually ended up using marinetex because it lasted longer. Not as pretty, but much more durable.
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As an aside, we had a boat we used to beach all the time (lake boat, that's how you parked it) and we actually ended up using marinetex because it lasted longer. Not as pretty, but much more durable.
Thanks LR.
I was contemplating Marine Tex since if you held a gun to my head, I'd guess that same thing was a big cause of the damage. Gulf coast boats spend a lot of party/chill time on sand bars. Since I've never worked with gel, it might currently be my best option.
Still, a little experience in an out of the way spot, might be good for me. :idea:
EDIT:
I ordered the gel coat, hardener, wax and and off white tint from US Composites. Gentleman there stated I could add some Viagra (cabosil) to stiffen it up a bit for the vertical surface.
Like the trailer springs, this ought to be interesting.
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If you plan on beaching it a lot, you'll find the gelcoat lasts about a season, then you're back to looking like that picture. After two seasons, I stopped caring how pretty it was on the trailer and caked the marinetex on!
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Well, after 2+ years of delay, I got around to installing the new seals in my hydraulic steering cylinder.
Model HC 5340-42 circa 1996 port side seal.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/DSC06212.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6909&title=dsc06212&cat=500)
Support bracket removed, old seal on shaft
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/DSC06213.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6910&title=dsc06213&cat=500)
New seal (black) on left, old on right.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/DSC06214.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6911&title=dsc06214&cat=500)
Alignment "tool" for positioning seal on shaft
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/DSC06217.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6913&title=dsc06217&cat=500)
New seal in place, support bracket shaft cleaned/greased
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/DSC06220.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6915&title=dsc06220&cat=500)
Support bracket in place
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/DSC06222.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6916&title=dsc06222&cat=500)
Final tightening/torqued
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/DSC06224.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6917&title=dsc06224&cat=500)
This wasn't a real difficult undertaking. The seal kit came with the spanner/pin wrench and various o rings for the hose fittings. Starboard side is just a repeat of the procedure. Actual instructions can be found on the Teleflex/Seastar site.
http://www.teleflexmarine.com/wp-conten ... 20720F.pdf (http://www.teleflexmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/120720F.pdf)
Just need to bleed and I should be good to go for another 15 years. :mrgreen:
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Nice job CB :cheers:
Momma ain't gonna be happy when she looks for that roast pan though :mrgreen:
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Since I first purchase this hull, I always considered re-powering. Nine years later, I pulled the trigger and purchased a 150 in-line 4 Four stroker.A lot of research and soul searching went into my choice and hopefully it was a good decision. Time will tell.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/845/20180607_155933.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17151&title=20180607-155933&cat=845)
My goals were a cruising speed of 27-28 mph and a fuel burn rate under 10.5 gals/hr.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/845/20180607_111453.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17153&title=20180607-111453&cat=845)
I'm thinking my normal cruising rpm will be closer to 4300-4500 so that falls within my anticipated range. WOT rpm is 6000 at 39.3 mph. Again, all within my goals. The motor weights in at 500lbs making my testing weight 3680 lbs. It will be interesting to see if I have a noticeable reduction with my normal loads.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/845/20180607_111613.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17154&title=20180607-111613&cat=845)
With the old Yamaha on back, the hull had a port list that required trim tab correction. Maybe it's the additional weight but whatever, the list is reduced to a degree that only a minimum use of the tab is necessary. Strange. I always felt the list was caused by a hook in the hull but only difference is the motor weight. Interesting. :ScrChin:
I tried several prop combinations and received the above results using a Prop Tech 14.25 x 15 3 blade. This prop is basically a Yamaha Reliance clone.
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Looking good CB. New gauges and all - no more sunburned displays. :thumleft: Did you get fly-by-wire?
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No, it's old school.
The gauges are Command Link but do not use the helm hub.
I did try an hold costs down a tiny bit. Still the new gauges provide a fair amount of data including fuel management.
My long and trusted Flo Scan is now sitting on the shelf.
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Very nice Bob :nSalute:
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Thanks JD,
I look forward to this summer and a reduced concern over the motor.....I hope. :mrgreen:
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So how does it sit in the water now with the 4-stroker on it? You had a 200 Yammy on it before. I'm guessing about the same?
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No different really. It's about 85 lbs. heavier but the remote oil tank is now gone and of course the batteries are no longer there either. It steers well and tracks true and the fuel burn delta is a plus. I will admit, it changes the "look" due to its "alien look" cowling but I'll get use to it with time.
I'm also installing a new rub rail insert (black) to spruce her up.