Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 200 Rebuilds => Topic started by: Jayong63 on March 22, 2009, 07:01:20 PM
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I am about to start restoring my 88 200 striper. I have checked the transom for flexing by jumping on the motor and all seems well the transom even though it does have some cracks in the gelcoat.
The floor is another issue...it is soft in a bunch of places and definitely needs replacing. My question is do I just have to cut out the old and tab in the new or do I have to take the whole cap off?
Also if I do the sole now is it too much of a pita to do the transom at a later date?
I plan on using the nidacore for the sole but have never done any real fiberglass work so should I go ahead with the nidacore or go with marine ply?
P.S. I tried to post photos but couldn't.
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Welcome aboard Jayong63 :!: :!:
You have to open a photobucket acct and then post your pix from there. Read the first topic on this forum but only read the LAST post of that topic (there's only 2) - it'll show you how to post pix from photobucket.
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Thanks RickK
here are some pictures...
(http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww67/jayong63/sideview.jpg)
A side view...
(http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww67/jayong63/frontview.jpg)
The hull is in good shape with only a few scratches
(http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww67/jayong63/castingdeck.jpg)
casting deck feels ok just a few cracks in the starboard storage next to an access plate
(http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww67/jayong63/transom.jpg)
transom has some small cracks in gelcoat but feels solid when flex testing.
I will be redoing the console also...there is a crack in the deck on the port side
(http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww67/jayong63/deckcrack.jpg)
here is a closer look at the crack the area was somewhat patched long ago with marinetex
(http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww67/jayong63/capcrack.jpg)
the cap had cracked in a trailering accident and a poor fix was attempted (bondo)
(http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww67/jayong63/rearview.jpg)
the engine ( 88 johnson 140) cranks right up but needs a carb job and the kicker was recently given to me
The boat was given to me when my dad got a new boat and has been sitting in my yard for 5 years so it's about time to do something with it..
Thanks
Jorge
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Looks like a nice boat. Not a bad price either :wink:
(http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww67/jayong63/transom.jpg)
transom has some small cracks in gelcoat but feels solid when flex testing.
Typical cracking where the cap fits to the transom. Seal it up and you'll be fine.
The boat was given to me when my dad got a new boat and has been sitting in my yard for 5 years so it's about time to do something with it.
You must not live close to water if it's sat there that long - maybe you were too young to drive :scratch:
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no actually I live in about 15 minutes from the ocean..I have a 22 ft proline sport at my condo in Key Largo that I use just getting tired of having to drive 3 hours to get to the boat I figured the aquasport was a better all around boat and a lot easier to trailer around. BTW I have been old enough to drive for over 30 years now....I was supposed to get rid of the boat but couldnt part with it so I finally convinced my wife to let me keep it.
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:thumleft:
No excuses now - get her wet :cheers:
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Welcome man :thumright: Nice potential there, looks clean for her age
I am about to start restoring my 88 200 striper.
Do you plan on boating with her this summer? You could!
I have checked the transom for flexing by jumping on the motor and all seems well the transom even though it does have some cracks in the gelcoat.
Good but fix that crack soon (that's the first thing I would do)
The floor is another issue...it is soft in a bunch of places and definitely needs replacing. My question is do I just have to cut out the old and tab in the new or do I have to take the whole cap off?
Bunch of place like where? No you don't have to take the cap off
Also if I do the sole now is it too much of a pita to do the transom at a later date?
I plan on using the nidacore for the sole but have never done any real fiberglass work so should I go ahead with the nidacore or go with marine ply?
It all depends if you plan on boating with her this summer :wink:
Marc..
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Ok Thanks for your replies.
What do I use to patch the crack in the transom? The right way.
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I would clean it up and put some 4000 or 4200 on it. Remember that it is where the liner comes over the transom. You just need to seal it up.
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(http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww67/jayong63/patchedtransom.jpg)
Ok I ground out the crack a little more and patched it with marine tex....
Now I am about to cut out the sole but, most posts I read say to leave an inch or two around the perimeter when I cut it out so I can tab to....well as you can see, the sole is cracked mostly all around right at the joint to the gunwales
(http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww67/jayong63/deckcrack.jpg)
so should I just cut it out as close to this as possible?
thanks
JAY
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so should I just cut it out as close to this as possible?
thanks
JAY
I would still leave an inch all around, reinforce it with layers of glass tape after getting to bare glass and your good to go, you could actually do it before you cut the sole
Marc..
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the sole demo begins...
(http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww67/jayong63/sole1.jpg)
I started to cut out the old sole and found that it was made of little squares of plywood sandwiched between two layers of fiberglass which was a total suprise to me as I thought it was just glassed on the top and not the bottom , and that it would at least be bigger sheets of plywood. My question now is this: Do i leave the botom layer in and bond the new plywood to it or continue to cut it out and get down to the stringers? You can ssee on the left side of the pic there is still little squares of plywood intact.
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:thumright:
Yup, that's what our floors are made from - I think they call it "end-grain balsa".
Cut it all the way out and then you can inspect the stringers.