Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 196 Rebuilds => Topic started by: slvrlng on March 10, 2009, 10:11:07 AM
-
I just got a new project. 1973 19-6 with a johnson 150. The trailer is shot and the boat needs a lot of work, but the transom is really solid. The cool thing is I found this site last night and I know that most of my answers are already here for me to find.
-
Welcome!
sounds just like my boat back when I bought it. It barely made the 10mile trip home on the trailer it came with....
-
Thanks to Ricks instructions I am going to show some pics that I took when we got back to Atlanta.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/mar8newboat004.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/mar8newboat005.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/mar8newboat003.jpg)
I found this on craigslist,the the hull is actually sitting on the fenders, but we made it back anyway at 50 mph on I-85. It was an all day adventure! The guy I got it from bought it to fix but had second thoughts. I know whats in store. This site is a godsend. I also have a 71 14' Sea Nymph aluminum that we figured out was too small for what I want to do. The good thing about the Aquasport is I don't have a lot in it. $325. I have many memories of midnite runs out in a 19-6 to drift fish the edge out of Marathon. Its going to be awhile before that happens but it will happen!
-
Hey welcome slvrlng, you got a hell of a deal there dude, she actually looks pretty good :thumleft:
Marc..
-
Welcome aboard slvrlng :!: :!:
Great deal. 8)
(Oh, and good job on the pics :wink: )
-
Welcome! Did I read that you are from Atlanta? Good to see another local Aquasport!
-
I had to go down on the southside today to meet with a customer soooo I couldn't stand it and stopped by to check on the boat. You guys know better than me, anything obvious? Yes I know the trailer is shot!
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/mar10aquasport007.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/mar10aquasport012.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/mar10aquasport002.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/mar10aquasport001.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/mar10aquasport006.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/mar10aquasport005.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/mar10aquasport011.jpg)
Oh yes I live in Lawrenceville but the boat is in Conyers.
-
Looks pretty clean, is the bilge area clean (no standing water, smells fairly dry)? What are your plans for it? What's the story with the motor?
-
If you haven't noticed there is no wheel or motor controls on the console. The PPO had thrown away all of it, then slid the cooler seat over to the gunnel so he could reach the controls he put in. The motor runs but I have already heard two stories about these models. Something about " high rings". It still holds in the 90s in compression. The decision I have to make is whether to sell it for parts and repower or throw money at something that might lock up anyday. My real problem is that I love the the sound of these motors when they are wound up tight! I used to go fish out of Key West With a good capt. who is now gone. He had a 256 Mako with two of these on the back. There are some weak spots here and there around the toerail but I don't know how strong these areas are supposed to be. They seem to be from dock collisions and have spider cracks radiating out from them. They all look repairable and I sell most of the stuff to fix them. The gas tank is already gone and evidently from reading the threads I was going to replace it anyway. The stringers sound really solid but of course that needs more investigation.
-
Really you use to fish off Marathon that's where I'm from and still live. And I also own a 73 19-6 small world :o
-
Been trying to get her dried out. I pulled the cover off of the coffin and have been checking the stringers which seem to be in really good shape. My question is should I pull the floor or not. I read lilrich's thread and I can't see any delamination at all. There is only 1 soft spot port of the console. It is soft there due to a crack. the rest of the floor is really solid! What should be my next step? Fix the crack which will solve the soft spot or start pulling the floor? I just can't stand not taking her out. I have got to find a trailer!
-
Here are some pics of the crack in the deck. It is about a foot long over the whole length. I am thinking of just grinding it out and laying 1808 over it. Should I also use mat in the layers. I don't care if you can see the repair at this point. I just don't want any more water intrusion through the deck.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/crackindeck002.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/crackindeck001.jpg)
I also have a question of where the water has been going. Since the crack looks to parallel the left stringer does it leak through and then just stay in there untilit eventually evaporates or is there a channel through the stringer or under it so it can drain into the bilge. Also, when I put a bilge pump in where does that pump into or out of. I know these are some really basic questions but unlike most of you on this site this is the biggest boat I have ever owned and I want to do it the right way! I have not gotten much sleep the past week because I have been reading as many threads at night as I can! The material on them is absolutely fascinating! Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
-
I would go ahead and get the boat to a point that you can take it out! It's usually after you have the boat in the water that you will know what imperfections you're willing to live with and which one's you're not (or can't). You can throw some spare tanks in the stern temporarily... Make it a short trip though. :)
If any water makes it's way under the floor, it should drain all the way to the rear of your bilge. Then, when you take the drain plug out, it should flow out. As far as the bilge pump, there's really no access to the bilge unless you make one. I cut a hole in the floor right in front of the motor and installed an access plate so I could have good access to the bilge. I installed 2 big bilge pumps and plumbed them into the self bailing trough and then plumbed them overboard with some thru hull fittings. This is a pic of the plumbing toward the stern. I can post some more pics if you're interested.
(http://usera.imagecave.com/jessneequee/100_0468.jpg)
Side note: I've never seen anyone mount the controls on the gunwale in a center console... What was the previous owner thinking? :mrgreen:
-
I think when they repowered in the past the motor came off a non-center console hull. The control cables were too short so being cheap rather than buying the correct length they just placed them on the gunwale. They then slid the cooler seat over and drove from that position. I would imagine they would just lean over to steer! I'm not really sure but I bet it was a trip to see this guy driving the boat from over there! They also cut a notch in the corner of the channel cover and dropped the control lines in it right below the controls. I too would would like to get a pattern of your(Badonaq) rod holders so I can make some. Once I get a decent trailer I have been planning on getting some plastic tanks and doing exactly what you said. GET IT BACK ON THE WATER!!!
-
This is some damage on the cap should I just grind it out and glass over it or what? The other pics are thin spots in the gel.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/dockrashandthinplaces001.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/dockrashandthinplaces006.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/dockrashandthinplaces013.jpg)
-
I've been looking at how to take it off the trailer for a couple of weeks so I finally did it today!
Thank god for chain hoists and floor jacks.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/4-9-09boatofftrailer001.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/4-9-09boatofftrailer002.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/4-9-09boatofftrailer004.jpg)
You know it doesn't look too bad under there.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/4-9-09boatofftrailer007.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/4-9-09boatofftrailer009.jpg)
This is why I needed to get it off. Ithink someone just parked it on the ramp for about a year! Its hard to believe what saltwater will do. Check out the 70s carpet on the bunks. Do you think it could be original? :D Of course the lack of crossmembers in the back had the hull sitting o the fenders.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/4-9-09boatofftrailer013.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/4-9-09boatofftrailer014.jpg)
-
Its been a while since I've posted anything on my hull, its just been too hot! I did take off one of the rod holders to check its condition and found a lot of corrosion. In addition to the two factory marinium holders the PO had added two Lee's chrome over brass flushmounts. What is the best way to get as much corrosion off as possible? I finally took a razorblade and scraped the outside,that actually worked pretty good. Is there anything I can soak them in to clean it off. Also, what was the original finish on the marinium ones, polished or dull? Thanks!
-
Well I got to buff out the rodholders. I used a wet gray scotchbrite with softscrub on both the chrome ones and the marinium. Then hand polished each with wenol metal polish. Man does that stuff help. They are not done yet because there are some really deep pits but I think I can get most of it off with my dremel. I should have it back on the trailer next week and then the fun really begins!
This is the Lee's
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/rodholders001.jpg)
And this is one of the original marinium. Both of them were basically white before I started.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/rodholders002.jpg)
I kind of like the dings in all of them. Makes you think somebody grabbed the rod on a hot fish and smacked the butt down when it took off. Of course that was probably 30 years ago. Hows that Jimmy Buffet song go "Aw the storys we could tell"
-
Looks like you're jam up on the wiring for the trailer lights, so that's good :roll:
Keep those pics coming. :thumright:
-
That is the old trailer! I just realized I haven't posted any pics of the newer one. If you look close on the old one you can see where the chines were sitting on the fenders. That is the way it was when I bought it. The lights were a quick fix just to get it home. The new one is a B&S made for a Proline 210. It has 8' cypress bunks which should be way better than the old system. I have been rebuilding it with all new Ubolts and wires with polelights,which I really like!
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Newtrailer007-1.jpg)
Wow this one has all the crossmembers!
-
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/rodholders002.jpg)
I have two of these that are tarnished but with less gouges. I replaced the aluminum with stainless. Would you be interested in them?
MD :wink:
-
Thanks MD! I think I'm going to keep mine as close to the way it was when I got it. There's nothing really wrong with them that a little love won't fix, the Lee's were really made well and they don't even make the chrome over brass anymore. I like the style of the marinium ones a little more space age look. I'm sure someone will want yours for their restoration and I do appreciate the offer.
-
Well I got to buff out the rodholders. I used a wet gray scotchbrite with softscrub on both the chrome ones and the marinium. Then hand polished each with wenol metal polish. Man does that stuff help. They are not done yet because there are some really deep pits but I think I can get most of it off with my dremel. I should have it back on the trailer next week and then the fun really begins!
This is the Lee's
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/rodholders001.jpg)
And this is one of the original marinium. Both of them were basically white before I started.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/rodholders002.jpg)
I kind of like the dings in all of them. Makes you think somebody grabbed the rod on a hot fish and smacked the butt down when it took off. Of course that was probably 30 years ago. Hows that Jimmy Buffet song go "Aw the storys we could tell"
Hey Lewis, I have the same ones, was going to trash them because they were in a bad shape but after seeing what you have done with yours, decided to do the same and :shock: they shine again :mrgreen: How did you take out the white plastic insert ?
Marc..
-
Hey marc, I got hot water and soaked them in it. The liner was really stuck. The hot water softened the liner enough for me to slip a long thin screwdriver in between the liner and the tube. Once I got the screwdiver in I simply pried the liner away from the tube. I worked my way around the liner until it loosened it enough to remove.
-
Cool, thanks :salut:
Marc..
-
Anybody know what these are? I think they are outrigger bases. I would like to use them if possible. There is one on each gunwale beside the front of the console. They lean towards the stern at about a 30 degree angle. They also have a crossbar at the bottom of the tube which is about an inch in diameter, but they are too small for rodholders.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/outriggerbases002.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/outriggerbases001.jpg)
-
Correct, they are outrigger holders. You stick the little base in there and use the telescoping outrigger poles. The outrigger holders have notches in them so can turn to whatever angle you want and it will stay.
-
Happy Thanksgiving! So here's something you can ponder while you're with your families.
I bought a newer trailer for the 19-6. It originally was built by B&S in Reddick Fl. for a 1989 Proline 210. Its galvanized and I have been rebuilding it with all stainless fasteners. I redid the cypress bunks and got them back on today. This is the question,evidently the Proline had a little deeper V and measuring the top of bunk to middle roller the 19-6 hull is going to sit about six inches off the roller, will this be an issue? The bunks are 8 footers and the angle cut on them is about right. I am concerned that all the weight of the motor will be sitting in space. Should I go ahead and add two more bunks all the way to where the strakes end to make it nestle better or just let it sit in midair?
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/newtrailergettingcloser007.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/newtrailergettingcloser009.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/newtrailergettingcloser006.jpg)
Thanks for any help and you guys have a safe turkey day!
-
You could do the new bunk thing or they make rollers that have long plates that make them adjustable, maybe in the 5+ inch distance.
(http://shop.easternmarine.com/images/product/4878.jpg)
(http://shop.easternmarine.com/images/product/9491.jpg)
-
Im with Rick my new trailer came with two of those makes it easier for the trailer shops to fit any boat to the same trailer.
-
I was looking at your trailer compared to Owen and Sons and I really think the v-style blocks and center bunks Owens uses will work out perfect. You just need to figure out how high the V-blocks need to be. Look at the links below, it looks just like your trailer with center bunks.
http://www.slideon.com/portfolio/fullim ... arge_f.jpg (http://www.slideon.com/portfolio/fullimages/DSC_7179-large_f.jpg)
http://www.slideon.com/portfolio/fullim ... arge_f.jpg (http://www.slideon.com/portfolio/fullimages/DSC_7166-large_f.jpg)
http://www.slideon.com/portfolio/fullim ... arge_f.jpg (http://www.slideon.com/portfolio/fullimages/DSC_7163-large_f.jpg)
-
Thanks Scott! I talked to Jeff Owens and he looked at this thread and had some really good suggestions. :thumleft:
-
Thanks Scott! I talked to Jeff Owens and he looked at this thread and had some really good suggestions. :thumleft:
Let us know what options are available - I'd love to get rid of the front roller on my 230 boat.
-
Hey Rickk, I suggested to Mr. Owens that he join the forum as an expert on trailer questions. Also I told him I thought it would be a good idea to become a sponser of the site. His sister sent a message to IT, is that all thats necessary? I think his expert opinion could help us all out. Back to my trailer or yours he said to give him dimensions and he can make the blocks for just about any setup. If the distance is too tall for wood alone he sells an aluminum beam that you bolt to the crossmember, then the wood bolts on top. Pretty slick!
-
Hey Rickk, I suggested to Mr. Owens that he join the forum as an expert on trailer questions. .... I think his expert opinion could help us all out.
As an expert he is more than welcome. As a proponent for his company..... sublety will certainly be a virtue.
Also I told him I thought it would be a good idea to become a sponser of the site. His sister sent a message to IT, is that all thats necessary?
Not sure how that works.
Back to my trailer or yours he said to give him dimensions and he can make the blocks for just about any setup. If the distance is too tall for wood alone he sells an aluminum beam that you bolt to the crossmember, then the wood bolts on top. Pretty slick!
I will have to spend more time looking at the options.
-
Well crap!!!
In trying to help skoot I took some pics up in my bilge so he could figure where to cut his to put a hatch so he could install pumps. In doing so I just now found out my inner stringer is cracked exactly like terntwo's just on the other side. Intresting that I have those same square holes that he has.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/boat12212009009.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/boat12212009005.jpg)
Notice the foam drips scattered around that have been in there for 36 years.
I guess my next step is pull the console and start cutting! Dang it!
-
Hey Lewis, I was looking at your previews pictures when you lifted the boat, looking at the way the boat was supported in the back, is it possible, that may have caused it? The support seems to be right at that location
Marc..
-
Yeah I was wondering about that myself. When I zoom in though it looks like there's dirt on the crack edge. Next project for this weekend is put it back on the trailer, build some temporary wood supports under keel, pull motor, then pull console.
If you notice the name of this thread I called it that because I have another project going on at this time also. Its just not a boat, but it is named after one. Its an Airstream travel trailer.
A 1955 22 foot Flying Cloud. My original plan was to have the Airstream parked down in the panhandle somewhere and drive the boat down on the weekends and have a cheaper place to stay. I have gutted the Airstream and am about to lift the shell off to fix the frame and put new floor down. Looks like I'm going to be busy this winter. Thank God I have a dry place to park the boat in!
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/flyingcloudjuly08006.jpg)
-
Wow, that's way cool :bounce: Should start a thread on that project!!
Marc..
-
I already do on http://www.airforums.com (http://www.airforums.com) . I got the boat and quit working on the Airstream. Then I lost my job., so I quit working on both of them. Now I finally have a new job and will have funds to do both. What is amazing about the airstream there are only 16 known to exist like mine, (same year and model). And you think people put money into boats go check out http://www.vintageairstream.com (http://www.vintageairstream.com) when you get a chance! My wife said tonight we could flip the airstream over and hook up that 150 on the back. Can you imagine what that would look like! :mrgreen:
-
Hey Lewis, before you cut the sole out you may want to consider popping the cap off, then pulling the liner. Then you can re-core the sole from the bottom and save the skin on the sole. The only cutting required is at the transom which you'll have to cut anyway.
Just a thought. :!:
MD :wink:
-
Thanks MD I'll have to think about that. The sole has several large cracks and associated soft spots so I don't know if its worth it rather than just do all new like yours.
I got the boat on the new trailer this afternoon. Thank god for chain hoists!!! :cheers:
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/boatonnewtrailer001.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/boatonnewtrailer002.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/boatonnewtrailer004.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/boatonnewtrailer005.jpg)
This is the issue I knew was coming. the keel sits about 8 inches above the rollers so I guess next thing is cut them off and get the blocks from Owens and Son to fill the gap.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/boatonnewtrailer003.jpg)
-
Lewis, any way to get bunks under the stringers? Seems those stiff bunks near the chines could let the keel sag.
MD :wink:
-
Yeah MD thats what I was talking about. I will be building or purchasing v bunks with 2x6 run between them.
http://www.slideon.com/portfolio/fullim ... arge_f.jpg (http://www.slideon.com/portfolio/fullimages/DSC_7179-large_f.jpg)
skoot had linked this earlier in the thread. This is what I will end up with. The hull had been on blocks since April and I need to move it around. It won't stay like this for long! At least I can get some good measurments now.
-
SWEEEEET!! How nice does that look on the trailer? Reel nice!
Once you get those V-blocks on the cross beams and under the keel that thing is going to fit like a glove. Nice work, your stoked.
-
Got it! Looks like a good set and easy to drive on.
MD :wink:
-
OK so I got bored today and started working on the badges I got from flkeysaqua. I sanded the backs down on a belt sander with 120 grit then got my optivisors and started evening out the top surfaces. I tried sanding with 400 grit but it didn't level the surface out to my satisfaction. I ended up taking a single edge razorblade and scraping the imperfections out. I used a back and forth action over the small nibs and this really worked well!
Here's some of the mold nibs before I started.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/badges006.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/badges004.jpg)
These are the same areas after I scraped them.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/badges008.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/badges007.jpg)
I then mixed up some paint I used to sell and matched skoots color on the timecapsule as close as I could.I then carefully hand painted the letters in. I'll let this dry overnight and clearcoat tomorrow with krylon fusion clear.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/badges013.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/badges012.jpg)
I think they are going to look awesome! I want to thank Chris for taking the time to reproduce these things for all of us when no one else would! :thumleft:
-
I like these molds! But I have a question, why don't you get these badges scanned,digitalized and cut on a CNC router? They would be perfect every time. Maybe make them out of some kind of plastic material like starboard? Is it a cost thing? Just curious
-
I don't know if I could afford some made on a CNC. If I bust one of them all I have to do is call Chris and he can pour me another one. These are made from an original badge and are an exact duplicate of it. There are even some scrape marks on mine that came from the original. Plus I don't know if you could get the same look from a routed version. From 20 feet away you will not be able to tell these are not original. Look at the ones on skoot's timecapsule. Do you have your badges? If not PM flkeysaqua and get some! I'm telling you they look great and you can't beat the price! Its not like you can get them from a store.
-
Now that's retro.
Beats hell out of a decal.
Excellent :thumright:
-
Now that's retro.
Beats hell out of a decal.
Excellent :thumright:
Yup, sure does
Marc..
-
Sweet man they look great. Oh BTW if you can get a set made from a machine shop for 40-50 bucks feel free and with a mold they will always come out the same it was my first mold that I ever made so it did not come out great but it will work. And the 22-2 are as next to perfect as I could get with the badge I was given.
-
You can take one of the badges you made, clean it up and make a 2nd generation mold. I did that for the 170 badge mold I have - still isn't perfect but works and most people don't even look close at the finished product, just us that own the boat look closely at it. Now if I could quit busting mine with the bait bucket :oops:
-
DAMMMMM BOY!! thats exactly the color, nice work. Did you hand paint those?
F*CKIN AWESOME is all I can say. 8)
-
Lmao Rick Lewis and I just got done talking about that today And I do plan on doing that sooner or later for the same reason that you did probably lol
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/065.jpg)
There you go Lewis.
-
Thanks Chris! That really makes me want to go fish. What a place to be able to live and raise your family! :thumleft:
-
Look what I found today!
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/NewGuages1-22-10001.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/NewGuages1-22-10003.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/NewGuages1-22-10002.jpg)
-
Lewis,
Excellent! Those are Faria's "Chesepeke" line. Give me a minute...
-
Lewis,
Alright, here's the "System Check" gauge I have, should match your set almost identically. Sorry, the plug is an 8-pin deutsch, not a 12-pin.
(http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/DSCF0845.jpg)
(http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/DSCF0843.jpg)
One word about the tach. Don't know if it will work on an O/B. Does it have pole settings, you know, like 3,4,5,6,8,12 pole? I see it has cylinder settings, but I can't read the other knob. Let me poke around Faria's website and verify...
-
Is this any better?
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/backofnewtach002.jpg)
-
Lookin' good Lewis :thumright: but...
You may want to cock your head when reading the MPH gauge. :roll:
-
Damn Bob, they are still in the box and the cage was loose. Of course in Ga. we always kind of have a different kind of view :wink: .
-
Well, Bob, I think the, oh, shall we say 3 degree "list" of the speedo in the box will produce 80 MPH ON THE WATER!!!
Just had to give you some :*: there... :lol:
-
Yeah its amazing what a set of Boyensen's can do for performance! :joker:
-
Lewis,
Are you also going to re-power?
Did I miss something :scratch:
-
No repower yet but just planning for the future. Seabob will be rewiring mine when I get to that point and has had some great info and help. What a cool thing to have people with so much knowledge available for help as I am clueless when it comes to wiring. One thing, since I don't need the oil pressure guage anybody that needs one PM me and you can have it cheap. You can see these guages look great and not that I need them yet when I see a deal I went for them! After looking at Faria's site there are quite a few motors that use the 12 pulse setup so these should work with just about anything I do in the future :thumright:
-
Lewis,
Obviously, as we talked last night, the tach will work with your Johnson (man, I can hear all the comments coming on that one... :silent: ).
So do you want my "System Check" gauge? It's just sitting around doing nothing...
-
Lewis,
Obviously, the tach will work with your Johnson, man
It's just sitting around doing nothing...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2gIdMRwfuM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2gIdMRwfuM)
-
Lewis,
Obviously, the tach will work with your Johnson, man
It's just sitting around doing nothing...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2gIdMRwfuM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2gIdMRwfuM)
You have a sick mind, my namesake... :cheers:
-
Lewis,
Obviously, the tach will work with your Johnson, man
It's just sitting around doing nothing...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2gIdMRwfuM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2gIdMRwfuM)
:lol: :lol: :lol:
Marc..
-
So today I finally started cutting out the floor. If anybody has a hull of this vintage and you have some soft spots and have not replaced it yet I figured out why they get soft. When mine was built they started with 5/8 marine ply, then glassed a layer of mat on the bottom. They then attached pieces of uncoated ply strips about 2" by 18" to the underside with phillips head screws, then tightened them down with nuts on the bottom. Then the floor was laid on the stringers and bedded down with the "concrete" stuff. Once the floor was down they laid glass down to about a 3/16" thickness on top and pressed the diamond pattern into the last coat of gel.
The problem starts when over time these screws flex and crack the gel above them. Water then seeps in and over time you get rot and delamination. Each of the screwheads today had a small circle of loose gel and glass just sitting on top of it. The strips of ply were placed on the bottom of the floor I would think as stiffeners. I don't think they were placed there as backing plates because you can't see where the screws are. Sooooo, what do you think?
Here is where I started cutting.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Aquasport%20destruction/aquasportdestruction11-14-10003.jpg)
Wherever there were no screws the plywood is in really good shape.Doesn't matter its all coming out!
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Aquasport%20destruction/aquasportdestruction11-14-10011.jpg)
Looking down the side of the stringer which so far is really solid. In the picture is also one of three bulkheads that I can see so far these run out to the chine.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Aquasport%20destruction/aquasportdestruction11-14-10005.jpg)
One of the screws that caused the problem. Remember these are hidden under the glass on the top of the deck.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Aquasport%20destruction/aquasportdestruction11-14-10008.jpg)
Check out how much "concrete" stuff they used to glue the deck down. It literally ran down the sides of the stringers and puddled up at the bottom.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Aquasport%20destruction/aquasportdestruction11-14-10006.jpg)
One of the strips bolted to the underside of the deck. You can see how its not coated.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Aquasport%20destruction/aquasportdestruction11-14-10010.jpg)
-
Good to see you taking the plunge, so to speak, Lewis. Feels good doesn't it. I'm sure I'll learn as you progress.
-
:cheers: right on bro, glad to see you got started. She's gonna be awesome
-
Rainy day in the ATL today! After I left the boat yesterday I realized I had not jacked the trailer up so it would drain. I was worried after 1 1/2 inches today and more to come tonight so I stopped by to check on it. I didn't bring a ladder today, but who needs a ladder when you have a truck! I thought you Florida guys might enjoy some fall color, so here ya go.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/aquasportdestruction11-14-10.jpg)
-
One of the screws that caused the problem. Remember these are hidden under the glass on the top of the deck.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Aquasport%20destruction/aquasportdestruction11-14-10008.jpg)
One of the strips bolted to the underside of the deck. You can see how its not coated.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv60/Lewis55/Aquasport%20destruction/aquasportdestruction11-14-10010.jpg)
Hmm... looking at that screw, you'd think that problem could have been avoided if they had just used a countersink screw- the head would have seated slightly below the surface of the wood which contacts the underside of the floor and probably wouldn't have rubbed. I have a theory about why they used that particular oval/pan head-
Whenever I was redoing some things (namely removing the rubrail) on my 19-6, I came across a smorgasbord of all different kinds of sheet metal screws with different heads and different drives and lengths. One thing I noticed with all the original countersink screws I removed was that they were ALL slotted drive. The oval heads (both machine thread and sheet metal thread) I removed were kinda 50-50 philips or slotted. Anyone who's screwed a screw knows a slotted drive is a royal PITA to work with when you don't have controlled tooling.
I don't know if AS was using a bargain bin of mismatch fasteners back then or what, but if they were, they got screwed (pun intended) on the countersink fasteners. I bet that in the redundancy of building boats, the workers simply got tired of fighting with the slotted drive countersink screws that seemed to be available and used a pan/oval head philips in its place, especially in an area where it would never be seen.
As far as the through-bolted planks you came across; I agree with your thinking about their purpose being to add rigidity to the floor. The fact that they didn't "seal" them with a conventional method (wrapped in glass) is understandable because if you'd never had an unforeseen water intrusion issue most likely caused by those screws you pointed out, they'd probably still be dry because, effectively, they're already sealed where they are.
This is just my theory, if someone disagrees, please feel free to say so :wink:
In any case, water intrusion in a boat, especially in one as old as ours is, is almost inevitable. Even the best sealant you can buy gets brittle over time and wallows out a hole right along with the screw- that coupled with every mans nature to hastily and excitedly customize a boat at times.
Anyway, its good to see you making some progress on her. Have fun and git'r'done. 8)