Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 196 Rebuilds => Topic started by: flkeysaqua on February 17, 2009, 12:15:41 AM
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Well I bought this boat about two months ago a day before thank god I found this site so far I have fix the almost 36 yrs of use on the transom luckily it was solid but there were 20 or so holes over the years that needed to be glassed so that is where I started.
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/boatsmotoretc051.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/boatsmotoretc063.jpg)
The mysterious bolts that went though the transom why? haven't got an ansewer yet oh well not there anymore
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/boatsmotoretc064.jpg)
More of those bolts and you can see some of the holes that were either filled with 5200 or silicone and gelled over once or twice
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/boatsmotoretc065.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/02-10-09019.jpg)
Like that drain once the old brass flange was removed
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/02-10-09023.jpg)
After grinding and sanding and filling holes before glass
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/02-10-09029.jpg)
After glassing
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/boatsmotoretc101.jpg)
After two skim coats of filler with one coat of gel
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/02-10-09043.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P2210155.jpg)
Finished product minus cleet have to take one in the day for you first time doing a good size project on a boat and this site helped me the whole way through couldn't of done it without you guys (well could of but would of been alot more trial and error) thank you to everyone
Next deck and rest of the hull and center console thinking about starting with the console.
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looking good there flkeysaqua. whats next ?. hows the boat run with that 140. when i had the time to work on mine. I fell an broke my damn hip. I can't wait to get started back.
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:thumright:
No more bilge drain?
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It has a new bilge drain I didn't install it untill I was done repainting you can see it if you look closely at the last pic. It runs good slim about 40 45 mph on a good day and I also visited the hospital cut myself with a 40 grit flap wheel doing the glass 15 stitches. Tonight I just installed my new hummingbird 595c gps/fishfinder thing is purdy but I do have some question about it. You have several options for the transducer thur hull transom mount and hull mounted. I want water temp/speed so hull mounted is out entertaining thru hull barely leaning towards the transom mount it comes with. My question is going through all the trouble of repairing the transom the thought of drilling a 5/8" hole thru it makes me sick and going over the top of the transom isn't to astedictly pleasing any suggestions? And thank you all its always nice to get a compliment or two on your work :D
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It has a new bilge drain I didn't install it untill I was done repainting you can see it if you look closely at the last pic.
So there is - missed it the first glimpse.
I also visited the hospital cut myself with a 40 grit flap wheel doing the glass 15 stitches.
OUCH - I thought those flap sanders were supposed to be safer :scratch: Guess not.
Tonight I just installed my new hummingbird 595c gps/fishfinder thing is purdy but I do have some question about it. You have several options for the transducer thur hull transom mount and hull mounted. I want water temp/speed so hull mounted is out entertaining thru hull barely leaning towards the transom mount it comes with. My question is going through all the trouble of repairing the transom the thought of drilling a 5/8" hole thru it makes me sick and going over the top of the transom isn't to astedictly pleasing any suggestions?
If you don't want the big hole you don't have many options - I would run it over the top of the transom, routing it in the motor notch so no one steps on the wire and then back away from the lower unit and any strakes, like the install instructions tell you. They give you enough clips to make it look decent.
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Yeah I thought there were safer too but it actually grabbed my finger and pulled it into the grinder it only took a second. Yeah I might have enough to run it that and I figured there’s already a handful of cables on the back of the boat anyways if I do glass over that inspection panel I guess is what you'd call it where the cables run to the back of the boat and did what luv2flycessna did it were look alot better I think but after the deck what does he plan on doing with the cables? running a piece of that flex line to the motor?
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I believe there are little plastic clamshells available for you to beautify a wire that runs through your transom. That would require you to drill a hole (gasp) through the transom, but at least you wouldn't have the wire draped over the transom. I personally don't care about the wire draping over the transom; like you said, there's already plenty of less than attractive wires and cables in your transom area. If it really bothers you, you could always get some wire loom big enough to wrap all that stuff up, then use the clamshell I described to go through your transom for the transducer wire. That would look... better :)
I think the inspection plate you're referring to is actually called a control tunnel; at least that's what Aquasport called it. I think Cessna's floor looks good without it too, but that plate being able to come up so easily sure is convenient. If you look at his pics he posted, you can see what looks to be pvc pipe running from underneath the console to the transom under the floor for the purpose of running cables/wiring.
What pitch prop do you run on your 140? I can do a solid 43mph with a 21" pitch on a Suzuki 140.... If I try to go any faster than that, my motor starts screaming at me for overrevving it and will drop down to idle (whether I like it or not). Gotta love that new technology. Maybe once I'm done with the hull, I can squeeze a 1/2 mile more per hour out of her :cheers:
Nice boat!
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I believe there are little plastic clamshells available for you to beautify a wire that runs through your transom. That would require you to drill a hole (gasp) through the transom, but at least you wouldn't have the wire draped over the transom.
The kit usually comes with the clamshell you refer to but the end of the cable that connects to the combo requires a big hole - 5/8" I think he said. Thats' a big hole for a little wire.
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I know rick I could justify a 1/8" or something but the wire comes with the plug attached why they dont leave it apart so you can just plug it in once you're done is beyond me I saw the conduit cessna used under the deck but from there is he going to let them go free on the deck or use a flex hose like on an action marine I've always liked the look of those and yes it came with a clam shell but there's still a 5/8 hole im my transom
Badon not sure the pitch number on prop 25378 but it can't be a 25 too much pitch right I know my dad is running a 32 on a jonny with 350+ hp so 25 has to be way too big is your boat slow coming on plane if its not go bigger
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Yeah, I feel your pain with the plug size on those things. Seems like they could have made it where that little wire can be disconnected and reconnected to the plug. I wonder if you can cut the wire and reconnect it? I would think you'd be able to since they provide the little clamshells with the unit. I wouldn't try that without knowing for sure though! :shock: :shock:
I originally had a 19" prop when I first got the motor, and it was pushing it to get it to go faster than 35mph. After I promptly chewed the prop up, I went to a 21" prop and that seems to work out nicely. I can cruise 4800RPM's @ 32mph and 42-43mph WOT (6200 RPM's, shuts down @ 6300RPM's ). The boat is designed such that it will plane out easily... I think I could plane this boat out with 50HP. The 21" feels right.
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I WOULD NOT CUT THE WIRE YOU ASKING FOR ALOT OF INTERFENCE once there is a route for "noise" in or out the clarity will go out the window but if they made the plug a two piece you could drill a smaller hole then attach it. Really you plane off super easy haven't ran the boat with the gps yet and dont have a speedo but at 4,500 i know im running alot faster than 35mph
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If you do find out what size prop you're running, I'd be interested to know how fast you run
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Sure thing i'll be out tomorrow with the gps
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Ok so I haven't taken the prop off os don't know what pitch it is but at 4,500rpm I was cruising at 33mph (on gps) at 5,500rpm 39mph didn't want to open it up for the simple fact I don't know how abused the motor was in its last 20yrs of use so thoughtI'd be on the safe side till I plan on repowering. Question for all I know the boat was rated for 185hp when it was built but do you think a 200 would be to heavy for the boat i.e. something that would keep me off the flats? And how much heavier is a 200 as opposed to a 175 yammy or jonny for arguments sake?
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Your 140 = 370lbs
Similar year model Evinrude 200 = 455lbs
2 Stroke 175 Yamaha = approx 465lbs
4 strokes are, of course, heavier. My Suzuki 140 weighs 420lbs.
That seems like a lot of extra weight to me, and these boats weren't the best when it comes to self bailing. Plus, with your factory transom height, you run the risk of more backwash coming over the transom when you come off plane with a heavier outboard.
I think you'd probably get maybe 7-8 mph more out of a 200hp as opposed to your 140, but you'd be using soooo much more gas, (Used to have an old 200hp on my SeaCraft. It would get up and go, but we must have gotten a 1/2 mile per gallon.) unless you dropped some serious $$ on a later model injected 2stroke/4stroke. I've heard some so-so reviews on the older model rude 140's, but yours seems to be running fine :) I honestly think a 140hp outboard on this boat is a nice fit.... Most 20' boats are running with at least a 200hp, and the cool thing about these old Aquasports is that they don't require much hp to plane out and run. I used to have a 90hp on mine before I repowered and it did just fine, and would run about 30mph. :pl:
Your speed:rpms looks pretty close to mine. I'm guessing you're running a 22-23" prop. I have a tolerable hole-shot running with a 21" prop... I'm happy with my prop.
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my 175 mercury 2008 model weighs in at 430 pounds out of box. good hp to weight ratio.
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Sweet that's what I like about this site exact info quick Badonquasport196 I haven't really experienced any backwash coming off plane at all on the 19-6 and I'll drop right off plane but it definitely gets close with only the 140 on there so I would really suck more gas even if my rpm speed drop alot say I run at 4,500 now at 30-33 mph and with the 200 I run 3,500rpm to get the same speed wouldn't that compensate for the extra mpg? Also I thought I could definatley be wrong but a 175 yammy was the same weight as a 200? So I would be better off if I did repowered to go with a 200 instead of a 175?
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my 175 mercury 2008 model weighs in at 430 pounds out of box. good hp to weight ratio.
Is that a 4stroke engine? That is a good ratio...
Sweet that's what I like about this site exact info quick Badonquasport196 I haven't really experienced any backwash coming off plane at all on the 19-6 and I'll drop right off plane but it definitely gets close with only the 140 on there so I would really suck more gas even if my rpm speed drop alot say I run at 4,500 now at 30-33 mph and with the 200 I run 3,500rpm to get the same speed wouldn't that compensate for the extra mpg? Also I thought I could definatley be wrong but a 175 yammy was the same weight as a 200? So I would be better off if I did repowered to go with a 200 instead of a 175?
I'll have to retract my statement about you getting much less gas mileage with a 200hp. The old 140's weren't frugal with gas by any means; they weren't the worst, but they weren't the best in terms of fuel consumption. If you were running less RPM's to go the same speed (though, I think you would have to turn a little more than 3500RPM's to go around 30mph with 200hp), in theory, you could get better gas mileage, but it would hardly be significant. I just know myself, and if I had a lot of extra horses on my boat than I needed, I would open it up all the time, and my gas mileage would then be exponentially worse and worse the more I used the boat :)
So, if you were planning on repowering, the 200hp would be the way to go... I just think that the extra weight back there would bother me. Imagine fishing out of the back of your boat now w/ the 140... does water come into the boat? Is it close? I'm sure it is... now imagine that with close to 100lbs more weight...
But then again, going fast sure is fun. It's really up to you... but I would stick with the 140.
Oh, and, yes the Yammy is very close to the same weight.
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Close to the top of the transom? No I'd say level the waterline is even with the center of the scuppers. Oh do you have the transom mounted livewells? If so what do you think of them wondering if it is a pain in the ass going over the transom everytime you want some bait.
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Close to the top of the transom? No I'd say level the waterline is even with the center of the scuppers. Oh do you have the transom mounted livewells? If so what do you think of them wondering if it is a pain in the :*: going over the transom everytime you want some bait.
No, I didn't mean the water was close to the top of the transom, I meant close to coming in through the scuppers. I don't have the stern mounted livewells, but I used to on a 17' Aquasport I used to have, and I think it was somewhat of a pain ... best I can remember.
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Just curious, what is the main reason(s) you want to re-power with a 200hp? Will it be loaded down with fish, people, material? I personally feel something around a 150hp would be more than enough power.
There use to be a guy on here (woody) who had a 19-6 with a 200hp. Maybe he could help.
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No, I didn't mean the water was close to the top of the transom, I meant close to coming in through the scuppers. I don't have the stern mounted livewells, but I used to on a 17' Aquasport I used to have, and I think it was somewhat of a pain ... best I can remember.
No comment on Capt. Bob :)
Ok the water is level with the centerline of the scuppers but water doesn't really sit at the back might be the new scuppers? and I don't get backwash at all but I hear everyone talking about it I guess I lucky :scratch:
Just curious, what is the main reason(s) you want to re-power with a 200hp? Will it be loaded down with fish, people, material? I personally feel something around a 150hp would be more than enough power.
There use to be a guy on here (woody) who had a 19-6 with a 200hp. Maybe he could help.
I don't have my heart set on a 200 but they seem to be more common down here then 150-175's and if the weight is the same on a 200 as a 175 then I was assuming that I would get better fuel economy with the 200 (better weight to hp ratio) and I would be turning less rpm's for the same speed. And I'm use to speed boats. :bounce:
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Close to the top of the transom? No I'd say level the waterline is even with the center of the scuppers. Oh do you have the transom mounted livewells? If so what do you think of them wondering if it is a pain in the :*: going over the transom everytime you want some bait.
I had them on mine (probably now Badobquasport196 will have them) and it wasn't really to bad to get to them over the transom.
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Oh luv2flycessna great job on the rebuild is that a 3" inch piece of pvc that you put in your deck? Also are the transom live wells made from glass and how big are they? (not trying to steal them from Badobquasport196 ) just thinking of either building a set. Oh what do you gentlemen think about the pro's and con's of mounting a motor on a outboard bracket is it even worth the time and effort? The rod holders under the gunwale I only have one under the port side are all the others the same shape, dimensions etc. as that one? I'll post a pic when I can once again thanks in advance for the help
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So we're done with this and can go back to business as usual? Good. Had me worried for a second.
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thanks rick thought I was in trouble :rambo:
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Also are the transom live wells made from glass and how big are they? (not trying to steal them from Badobquasport196 ) just thinking of either building a set. Oh what do you gentlemen think about the pro's and con's of mounting a motor on a outboard bracket is it even worth the time and effort? The rod holders under the gunwale I only have one under the port side are all the others the same shape, dimensions etc. as that one? I'll post a pic when I can once again thanks in advance for the help
Here is a link to dimensions of the livewells, courtesy of luv2flycessna:
http://s364.photobucket.com/albums/oo90/luv2flycessna/ (http://s364.photobucket.com/albums/oo90/luv2flycessna/)
The rod holders are all the same size as far as I know. I'm actually thinking of removing mine ( I still have all 4 ) and replacing them with some more modern rod holders out of a Key West 19CC.
Dunno about mounting a motor on a bracket, I never have myself, but it seems I recall my pops talking me out of it for some good reason before I built the transom...
I'm sure others will chime in on that one.
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Cool thanks if you decide to upgrade your rod holders would you be interested in selling them? :bounce:
thanks for the link
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Cool thanks if you decide to upgrade your rod holders would you be interested in selling them? :bounce:
thanks for the link
Sure I'll sell them. Sorry about the blue tint in the pictures, pics were taken under a tarp. Boat's a little dirty too, but what can you do?
Here they are:
Portside fore
(http://usera.ImageCave.com/jessneequee/100_0462.jpg)
Portside aft
(http://usera.ImageCave.com/jessneequee/100_0468.jpg)
Starboard fore
(http://usera.ImageCave.com/jessneequee/100_0464.jpg)
Starboard aft
(http://usera.ImageCave.com/jessneequee/100_0466.jpg)
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if flkeysaqua doesn't want them. just let me know were to send the cash. slim
if nothing else. please trace one so I cant cut me some out thanks slim
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thanks man I appreciate it email me and let me know whats the damage and just wondering how long till you replace them?
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(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P2280225.jpg)
Funny someone decided to stab the lid for some reason?
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P2280226.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P3020230.jpg)
For now I just painted the old gauges (not sure which manufacture I'm going to go with when I repower so no sense in buying gauges yet)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P3020231.jpg)
Look at all the whole from previous owners
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P3020232.jpg)
Any ideas how to get the last two pieces of teak off to sand and stain them I would hat to have to sand them in place. :scratch:
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thanks man I appreciate it email me and let me know whats the damage and just wondering how long till you replace them?
I'm not sure when I'll be replacing them, but it will be soon because I'm getting close to finishing the hull, and the next project will be painting the floor and inside walls, and I'm removing them for that... as soon as I secure the new rod-holders out of the Key West, I'll have no problem shipping the originals out. If I push for the rod holders now, I'll probably have to pay for them, but if I wait, I should get them for the good ole' boy discount. Just don't wanna be w/o rod holders if worse comes to worst.
Wood looks nice by the way :wink: . My original console (which has since earned its wings ) didn't have all that wood. I'd probably keep the original rod holders if it did...
if flkeysaqua doesn't want them. just let me know were to send the cash. slim
if nothing else. please trace one so I cant cut me some out thanks slim
I'll be sure to do that for you sir. Flkeys has first dibbs, but you are 1st runner up if anything changes. 8)
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thank you. I have buddy with a water jet. I'm going to get him to cut them out for me. thanks agin
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You can cut wood with a waterjet? Interesting...
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He cuts every thing with it. rubber, glass, plywood, floor tile, star board. you name it he can cut it. the cuts are so clean. he puts the program in an bam in a few moments its cut. It's cool. at 1/4 to 1/2 mil each it better earn it's keep.
this will be the 3rd one I'm hooking up for him. his shop runs 24-7-365
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thanks for the compliment only things the one holder I have doesn't look like yours its wierd it has one hole and a slot in it i'll post a pic tonight, maybe different from stock but definlty would like your old ones when your ready So you bought an aftermarket console? How much did it set you back? Slim with the water jet once he cuts them for you are you planning on routing tem or just sanding the profile? There is a gentleman on south floridas craiglist with teak for 7$ a foot I'll post a link after work
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thanks for the compliment only things the one holder I have doesn't look like yours its wierd it has one hole and a slot in it i'll post a pic tonight, maybe different from stock but definlty would like your old ones when your ready So you bought an aftermarket console? How much did it set you back?
I try to avoid buying things for my boat when possible... :wink: Back when my pops was running a small company called Stinger Boats, they cut a 1993 17' Polar CC in half and made a mold for a 19' boat out of it, and called it a Stinger. The console was left over, and I just kind of acquired it. I have a few Key West consoles laying around, but the polar was going to work the best. It actually fits really well; it covers the wood that the old console used to sit on, but I have since removed that wood. I miss the old console, but the new one is not as wide and is a lot taller. I think it works better, but I'd rather have the original. I'll have to post some pics.
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Last month I saw our console on south fl craigslist for like 75 or 100 bucks if you were interested? Also what size trailer do you have single or tandem axles? Looking for a new aluminum trailer weight wise a single will work? right? But the best deal I've found so far is $1595 for a single axle aluminum trailer with ZINC HARDWARE not even galvanized out of tampa down here $1950 for a single with stainless hardware without the six hour drive DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A PLACE FROM TAMPA SOUTH WITH A GOOD PRICE FOR A GOOD NEW ALUMINUM TRAILER
Best price I got for a double was $2350
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Eh... I think I'm just going to stick with the console I have. I really don't feel like putting together a third console :) . Thanks for the heads up on that though.
I don't think the trailer that came with my boat was the original. The frame of the trailer is only 5' wide, maybe 6' total from tire to tire. It's a single axle w/ 5-lug hubs and rollers (I HATE Rollers). The hub failed on one side, and it effed up the spindle pretty good, and it's not going to be smooth ever again, so now I have a hub that goes out every other trip... So, I decided to update all of the hardware and be done w/ it versus buying a new trailer. I'm going to go with a torsion axle so I wont have to worry about rusty leaf springs, I'm going to upgrade the hubs to 6lug hubs, and I got a set of galv. rims w/ 15" tires (2" bigger than the 13" tires on there now). Then I'm going to fab some skids w/ S/S Flat Bar and angle w/ S/S fasteners, and attach wood skids to it.
This will actually be my next project so I can finally get my boat off the blocks. I'll post some pics if you would be interested.
All of the parts are coming straight from WESCO Trailers, minus the skid hardware. It's all cost me a little less than $500. The axle and hubs are overkill, which makes me happy.
Honestly, a 19-6 doesn't need a dual axle trailer; the weight doesn't justify it. Plus, you'd have to contend w/ 4 hubs/tires, and then you can start worrying about whether your trailer is level behind your vehicle. I'm going to stick w/ a single axle. Good luck w/ whatever you decide to do.
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Well I ended up buying a new cruise on trailer single torsion axle with all stainless hardware same price down here as up on the main land so I can't complain. Me and the wife are going on a two day fishing/camping trip tomorrow well actually today we're going out in the bay off Bahia Honda and staying on an island tomorrow night after the first day of fishing then all day again Sunday
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Well the fishing sucked last weekend it was blowing 20-25 so needless to say it was a wet ride but the camping was nice. The wife and I got to have a little r and r from the everyday. Hopefully this weekend will be better but it looks like another windy weekend :evil:
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What did you use on your teak ?
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I used Teak Cleaner, Teak Prep, then Teak Gold. First I sanded it all down with 50 grit then 220 (because of how bad of shape it was in.) But like I was told on a different topic you have to re-apply the Teak oil every other day if you want to same look all year round. So I think I'm going to use what was recomended to me in the first place. Don't quite remember what its called. It's on another of my topics Teak Questions
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(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P3190019.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P3190018.jpg)
Badonsport is one or two of your rod holders like this? in your pics they don’t appear to be just wondering also could you trace them out possibly and email me them if you took a pic of them with something I could use for reference I could blow up your pic to the right size to trace them? I would really appreciate it. So next on the list of things to do repair or replace the old tank lid, the accessory lid (that runs down from the console to the transom) My questions are should I go with a composite material or marine plywood? If I go with marine plywood what is the best prep to insure the plywood is sealed? Glass both sides of the board? And is 1/2 inch good enough? I think it will have to be because I only have about 3/4 of an inch to work with? Any suggestions would be appreciated
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Hmmm... none of mine look like that. I wonder what that little notch is in the middle for? Sternlight maybe? I'll see what I can do about tracing them, been busy with the boat lately... bottom has been officially painted. Looks fantastic! Pics will be posted soon...
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(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P3190019.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P3190018.jpg)
Badonsport is one or two of your rod holders like this? in your pics they don’t appear to be just wondering also could you trace them out possibly and email me them if you took a pic of them with something I could use for reference I could blow up your pic to the right size to trace them? I would really appreciate it. So next on the list of things to do repair or replace the old tank lid, the accessory lid (that runs down from the console to the transom) My questions are should I go with a composite material or marine plywood? If I go with marine plywood what is the best prep to insure the plywood is sealed? Glass both sides of the board? And is 1/2 inch good enough? I think it will have to be because I only have about 3/4 of an inch to work with? Any suggestions would be appreciated
The rod holder's I had on my '74 19-6 looked like that and the other end was opposite with 2 slots and 1 hole, was for the rods, butt end in the hole and tip in the grooves, if that helps any. I took mine out for as putting rods there we were always tripping over them.
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Thanks guys yes very helpful cessna how did you reinforce the gunnel once you removed the holders? because my boat is missing 3 of the four and when I hit a big enough wave you can see the whole gunnel shake and you can actually hear it
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So now I know what you mean Cessna almost broke my damn toe on the brand new rod holders I just made :cheers: but the gunnels are much stiffer now went out yesterday blowing 10 to 15 knots really tested them at WOT :bounce:
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P3290247.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P3290249.jpg)
Made them out of cypress came out alright FYI the rod holders are not the same size or dimensions
Secondly today I put the boat on blocks to do the much loved bottom paint :twisted:
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4030288.jpg)
On the new trailer the night before
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4050290.jpg)
I still have not decided on bottom paint or gelcoat price wise what is the most economical way to go and how long do I have to wait for gelcoat to set before a get her wet?
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4050289.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4050296.jpg)
My questions are how well should I sand the remaining bottom (the parts you can't see) and what grit sand paper should I use so the bottom paint doesn't so the swirl marks oh and how many coats of bottom paint?
I know with gelcoat I'd have to sand the whole damn thing with 220 or so but the hardest part is done, but my main concern with gelcoating the bottom is even the it will never stay in the water more than a day and night at the max over time it will still get that grungy look to it CAN I REMOVE THAT without recoating? And a quick comparison on the price difference Any help would be appreciated
P.S. I HAVE ONE MORE WEEKEND TILL I HAVE A WEEK OFF TO GO FISHING WITH THIS BOAT TALK ABOUT TIMING :thumright:
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Sand it until it is very chalky and try not to have any gloss left. I use 80 grit on all the boats I do. West Marine brand paints hold up well and if you cant get that I would go with a brand called pettite. 8) u need two coats of bottom paint. Will take a gallon for your boat. Also ur paint needs to be ablative since the boat will be put in and out.
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Sand it until it is very chalky and try not to have any gloss left. I use 80 grit on all the boats I do. West Marine brand paints hold up well and if you cant get that I would go with a brand called pettite. 8) u need two coats of bottom paint. Will take a gallon for your boat. Also ur paint needs to be ablative since the boat will be put in and out.
Yep Yep.
80Grit is what I used on mine, and a gallon is more than enough. That's the beauty of going with bottom paint over gelcoat- the prep work is not nearly as involved. On some of the thicker areas of bottom paint, I actually used 45Grit to knock it down, then went back over it with 80Grit. Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't he be going with a hard paint over ablative if he's trailering the boat?
Flkeys- its' almost as if we both have the same project- I just got done rebuilding my trailer and repainting the bottom. Your pics sure do look familiar :) . Is that bowrail original? Mine was different. I've since taken mine off in favor of a trolling motor, and the fact that IMHO, bowrails are practically useless...
Oh yeah- Rodholders look grrreat like frosted flakes.
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Thank you guys for the help and compliments, there is no glossy paint left on the bottom its really old, reason for sanding through the bottom paint in the front it was really bad and you would notice it when it was on the trailer there are a few spots on the boat that need to be filled before I repaint the bottom. And I have to either reinforce the bow towards the bottom looks like its been ran aground a few to many times.
Question can I just fill it with fiberglass bondo or do I have to grind it out and reglass it?
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4060298.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4060299.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4060301.jpg)
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My hull has the same issues except most of them seem to be on the upper surfaces. Were the rubbed areas visible before you stripped them? Which method did you use to get your boat off of the trailer?
I really like your rod holders and being made out of cypress they should last a long time. FCI has a clear epoxy for cypress that has UV protectants in it.
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My 170 had the same problem. I was told the following procedure by a professional glass guy and it worked perfectly for me.
Grind into the gashes and grind the hull down along the sides of the gashes the thickness of the new glass layers that you'll be putting on it. Mine was a deep gash caused by abuse from the previous owner and also from bouncing around on my trailer. It had a lot of black in it that had to come out.
Take some fiberglass cloth and tear it apart in small strips leaving a bunch of jagged edges on both long sides. Then tear some wider pieces too. These rough edges will be important as you're re-glassing it - you lay the small pieces along the edge of the gash overlapping the rough edges across the gash like interlacing your fingers. This will make the transition across the round part of the prow easy and give you many surfaces to bond to. Mix up some Cabosil and resin to the consistancy of peanut butter (same as the bondo you're talking about but you control the mix).
So to start (and you do this all at one time), add the hardener to the cabosil mix and the resin and start to build it up with the resin/cabosil mix and round it off. While that is still wet start laying in the small pieces of glass wetting them down as you go and then lay in the bigger pieces over them. Roll out everything and let it cure.
Bad part of this for me was I was working upside down and when I was done I think I had more glass stuck to my gloves then I had on the boat. Was walking around like I was holding pom-poms :lol:
Grind it down and finish it the way you had in mind and you're set - mine is still holding strong.
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...there are a few spots on the boat that need to be filled before I repaint the bottom. And I have to either reinforce the bow towards the bottom looks like its been ran aground a few to many times.
Question can I just fill it with fiberglass bondo or do I have to grind it out and reglass it?
RickK's method is probably the RIGHT way to fill in the scratches/gouges, but I really don't think that's necessary to just fill in imperfections. I just used the fiberglass bondo on the entire hull. The glass used in these hulls is very thick, and unless it's really jeopardizing the structural integrity of the hull (a BIG gouge), then you should be alright just filling them in w/ bondo glass. My hull was COVERED in scratches, chips, and gouges ( a lot of them from the old roller trailer ) and it would have been a load of work to glass over each individual imperfection... It was a load of work as it was just to fill in the imperfections with glass bondo and smooth them out. Another thing to consider- working underneath your boat with a sander, no matter how light the sander is you're using, is a LOT of stress on your upper body holding that sander against gravity and applying the pressure needed. I think my pecs and arms are a little more defined now :mrgreen: . If the area toward the bow is looking bad, I would definitely repair that correctly w/ fiberglass.
Which method did you use to get your boat off of the trailer?
I asked the same question in this thread viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3799 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3799) and got some helpful responses.
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Question can I just fill it with fiberglass bondo or do I have to grind it out and reglass it?
Two years ago I had the same problem on my 200 Osprey.
I just sanded the keel clean, wiped down with acetone and built it back up with.............drum roll please..........Marine Tex !!!!
I took about three applications to do the buildup and used a cardboard cutout to shape the keel. Sanded in between applications and allowed to fully harden. Then I painted over it with regular old Krylon spray paint. Of course I taped off the repair area before spraying and painted it Midnite Blue which was close to the existing bottom paint.
That Marine Tex is very hard if properly applied. I have picked up some gouges since then ( from my trusty / rusty trailer ) and its funny; the gouges go right thru paint and gelcoat but get very shallow when they pass over the Marine Tex.
I am seriously thinking of getting a keel guard after I finish bottom painting here in a couple of months. Seems like I always find myself beaching my boat here on the lakes in Central Florida and over in Tampa. Keel guards are a nice thing to have, and I am always surprised to see that not many people use them...
8)
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RickK's method is probably the RIGHT way to fill in the scratches/gouges, but I really don't think that's necessary to just fill in imperfections.
I would do the bondo thing too if it were just imperfections, to even heavy duty scratches. The gouge in mine was deep enough to go through the keel letting water into the boat. Years of beaching it and even trying to beach it on oyster bars it looked like :cheese:
Good to go now, doesn't take on a drop that I can see.
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I highly recommend following Rick's procedure, or similar. Those are deep gouges, not just cosmetic. The keel on these boats is a major point of stress, don't screw around with it. Seriously, it'll take MAYBE 8 hours of work to do right, why second guess it?
And about Marine Tex - yes, it is good stuff and has it's place as a hardy filler, but it does not belong in high stress situations because it does not have structural strength when put under flexing loads. If so, hulls would just be made of Epoxy with no glass material!
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Sorry- I didn't see that there were pictures posted earlier (big-brother software). I would definitely go with RickK's method to repair that keel damage.
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Thank you all for the help and compliments on the holders I really appreciate all the support. With glass what would you recomend? Some tri with matte ? And do any of you have a keel guard or no any pros and cons to them? Thinking of putting one on for those trips to the islands.
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I'm going to try a product that I sell for rock chips on your car. It is a clear urethane film that you can remove when needed and reapply quite cheaply. I also agree with lilrich about your gouges.That coral is tough!
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cool man let me know how that works out and if you do start a list of 19-6's ill join up
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Thank you all for the help and compliments on the holders I really appreciate all the support. With glass what would you recomend? Some tri with matte ? And do any of you have a keel guard or no any pros and cons to them? Thinking of putting one on for those trips to the islands.
You won't need any matte. Remember that when you start grinding, you want to grind up both sides about 3" or so and in about 3/16 to allow for a couple layers of glass. You might want to re-inforce the whole prow while your at it. A good grinder and wheel and your done prepping in an hour.
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Take this for what it's worth, but I had the same problem, and fixed it by using some tickened resin fisrt - followed by a layer or two of 1808 (where most damage occurred) then a little mat to hide print through. See here:
http://classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=957&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=1971&start=285
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I still have not decided on bottom paint or gelcoat price wise what is the most economical way to go and how long do I have to wait for gelcoat to set before a get her wet?
This might be a dumb question, but why do you need bottom paint on a trailered boat?
Obviously re-gelcoating would be the way to go, but im sure its pricey. Why not use a high quality paint like Imron or alwgrip? I've seen a few boat with this done and they look really good, although Im not sure how paint would hold up in the long run.
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I have bottom paint on both of mine, and they live on trailers, but only because they always had it. To remove bottom paint totally is a PITA and almost impossible to get the stain off so you end up having to re-gel. Re-gel is pricey unless you do it yourself - we have a resident expert here in the family that will pipe in here soon I'm sure.
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That's the thing the bottom paint was so bad that on the bow (what you will see unless you're laying under the trailer) I took all the way down to the original gelcoat. The section you see took about an hour wasn't hard to get the stain out of it but it is very time consuming and labor intensive. And with gelcoat even if it lives on the trailer you will start to see a waterline over time that I'm not sure can be removed, so for that much work and money just to see a waterline is my reason for leaning towards bottom paint. Correct me if I'm wrong but I want a bottom paint that does not wear away while I run? As far as the repair today I was able to grind the section down and lay two layers of tri-axle with a matte back before I went to work. The first piece was just to bring the worst spot back to level with the rest. the next layer that I'll put down will be about two inches overlapping the last piece.
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4080331.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4080328.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4080323.jpg)
My last Question how many layers are enough I ground all the bad glass out and with one small patch over the worst area and one layer over the entire area and now the glass is flush with the gelcoat so did I screw up and not grind it far enough down to put one final layer over the entire area or I am good with what I've done?
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You're probably ok with what you have as long as you're satisfied with the repair you made at the damaged site.
As for the paint - if the boat will not sit in water for extended periods of time you might consider oil based house paint. That is what I have on my 170 and now you have a huge choice in colors (mine matches my truck). It does wear away eventually and places like the front keel (prow) will have to be recoated periodically. My 170 hasn't spent a night in the water since I bought her in '88. My 230 will be in water for 3-4 days or more at a time so I went with Petite brand ablative paint - I went with the white and you hardly see it.
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Thanks man appreciate it yeah as far as the glass im happy with it the filler will take care of the rest of the small non structural spots. With white bottom paint I plan on painting the top my boat a shade of white as well can you color match bottom paint or should I go with something that contrast whatever I pick for the top of the boat? Thanks in advance
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You have to decide what kind of bottom paint you're going to use first before you can answer the other. If you're going to use real bottom paint you're kind of stuck with their colors - Petite has a bunch of colors but not the whole rainbow. I've not heard of custom coloring this.
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Cool so whats the price difference with bottom paint and petite? Im kinda on a budget so whatever least expensive as long as it will last about as long. Now The Home Depot sells tint for water and oil base paint do you think that will effect the bottom paint's performance?
Oh I've also put the first layer of filler on just to go over the minor scratches and the low spots on the prow :wink:
Thanks for that word Rickk now i can sound like I kinda know what I'm talking about
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Ok so I think I've found the bottom paint I'm going to use Petite Hydrocoat Blue 1240 has anyone use Hydrocoat is it a good product cool thing about it you mix it with water :scratch: instead of brushing thinner any feedback would be greatly appreciate (im buying the paint after work tomorrow hopefully west marine has it down here.
Oh BTW thanks richard your boat looks great wanna finish mine lol I'll pay with beer and nachos
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Thanks KeysAS. Happy to provide any support I can, and would like to see your boat when I am in the keys for the fourth.
One thought on bottom paint, I used Interlux VC Epoxy... it is for trailered boats only, but is beautiful white, and very hard. Not trying to persuade you because there is really no benefit other than looks... and it will be more work. However it is definitely better for resale (don't know if that will ever happen) and a white bottom just looks better! This is comletely a subjective call though.
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Definitely Richard do you plan on watching the fireworks here in Marathon? Well Badonquasport is right I feel like im on steroids after sanding half of the boat, talk about a pain my respirator kept fogging up and I already can't see for shat.
One question I know i can read the gallon but do you have to sand between recoats? The gallon says at 70 degrees wait 3 hours to recoat. And IF THE BOAT IS PULL OUT OF THE WATER IN THE FIRST SEASON THE PAINT WILL LOOSE ITS EFFECTIVENESS??? Does it just loose its antifouling properties or will the paint go to shat?
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Well I've got the first coat on the boat I actually got a great deal on a gallon of Pettit 37 bucks at Boater's World. So for the price I couldn't pass it up.
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4110356.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4110358.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4110353.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4110351.jpg)
I did not know Pettit made an epoxy paint it laid great :cheers:
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:thumleft: Lookin good!
Dumb Question: Is that bottom paint or or barrier coat?? Sure is shiny...
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It's Easypoxy by Pettit pearl grey the same gallon can from West Marine cost $ 125.00 but I found it at Boaters World on clearance with there going out of business 25 percent off it only cost 37 bucks can't beat that
Here's a link to there website if anyone would like it great source of info
http://www.pettitpaint.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=45 (http://www.pettitpaint.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=45)
This is after the paint set up with the tape off still have to go over the transom with one more coat.
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/062.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/064.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/069.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/068.jpg)
Quick question the website says to wait for a week before you launch the boat but how long should I wait till I put it back on the trailer? so I can paint the three spots where the blocks are? Or should I just move the blocks and paint then wait till next weekend to launch it?
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It's Easypoxy by Pettit pearl grey the same gallon can from West Marine cost $ 125.00 but I found it at Boaters World on clearance with there going out of business 25 percent off it only cost 37 bucks can't beat that
Here's a link to there website if anyone would like it great source of info
http://www.pettitpaint.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=45 (http://www.pettitpaint.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=45)
web site there says it is a topside paint is that going to be ok being on the bottom?
looks great though.
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Yeah its a topside paint but when you read the can or http://www.pettitpaint.com/fileshare/pr ... 370606.pdf (http://www.pettitpaint.com/fileshare/product_pds/1370606.pdf) it says While its not recommended for constant immersion you can apply to boats that will not be in the water for more than two days but you can't launch the boat for at least 7 days after its applied. So we'll see :shock:
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Yeah its a topside paint but when you read the can or http://www.pettitpaint.com/fileshare/pr ... 370606.pdf (http://www.pettitpaint.com/fileshare/product_pds/1370606.pdf) it says While its not recommended for constant immersion you can apply to boats that will not be in the water for more than two days but you can't launch the boat for at least 7 days after its applied. So we'll see :shock:
ok good just wanted to make sure, I need to stop going fishing and work on my boat and git-r-done
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FLKeys - not sure what our plans our yet, that's too far out for me! I'll figure it out soon though...
Paint looks good - but don't leave it in the water more than a few days.
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Cool thanks for looking out guys yeah richard dont know what im doing tomorrow and if I leave the boat in the water for even a night it ill bee few and far between. Yeah cessna I've been waiting and waiting lol have you done all the work on your boat lift?
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Cool thanks for looking out guys yeah richard dont know what im doing tomorrow and if I leave the boat in the water for even a night it ill bee few and far between. Yeah cessna I've been waiting and waiting lol have you done all the work on your boat lift?
yeah did it all while on the lift wasn't too bad actually. I dont have a vehicle large enough that would be able to tow it anywhere. A little wobbly at times but all worked out well.
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Yeah I bet but looks great thanks to you I think I have to paint my deck a light shade like yours (my wife saw your post) :cheers: But thats good I'm coming around to a lighter color aswell
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The paint looks great! Are you gonna try a keel gaurd? If not I can get you some of the clear urethane that I'm going to use on mine. If you don't like it you can just pull it off.
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Sure how much does it cost?
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(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4170017.jpg)
It's back on the trailer :cheers: actually wasn't that bad doing it without the backhoe just used a bottle jack and slid the trailer under the boat as far as it would go then just set it on the trailer and move the jack repeated the process once more and it was done. Time to get some dolphin :cheers:
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I always did better in may and june when we fished there. 30 dolphin in a day 12 to 50 lbs.
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Yeah they have been killing them all week close in too 250 to 400 foot
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So I took the boat out today even though it was blowing like hell :bounce: caught some good air 3 to 4 foot out of the water :cheers: I found what looks like a 170 Aquasport in 6 foot of water on the BOTTOM :shaking: didn't have my underwater camera but tomorrow or the next day I'll be out there again and I'll be sure to take some pics of it. But when I was in some calmer water I opened the boat up and it looks like I actually gained 2 or 3 mph and the boat handles alot better at low rpms especially in reverse before the boat did not want to turn at all the stern wouldn't turn but the whole boat would seems to do alot less of that now. The only bad news I have is I did break one of the rod holders I just made catching air, and the prow where it comes in contact with the roller on the front of the trailer got scuffed up pretty good but once I install that film from slvring that shouldn't be a problem anymore. I also adjusted the trailer so the boat rides a little higher on it just moved the bunks in about 2 inches and raised the roller in the front.
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4190040.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4190024.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4190025.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4190027.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4190029.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4190030.jpg)
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Couldn't stand it could you? Sounds like a lot of fun. You had posted earlier that before putting the rodholders in your cap wiggled a lot. You then said that the rodholders helped this problem. My question is does it (the gunwale) need even more structure to keep it from happening again. I saw lilrichs thread about putting in the supports to help with this problem. I ask because as I start work on my hull I want to weigh all the options, plus I don't want to stub my toe!LOL :D
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Yes and no the rod holders are enough support but I made mine out of cypress which is a soft wood and it didn't really break the screw came out of the main upright that attaches it to the bottom piece if I 5200 the holder it self to side of the boat and glue the two pieces of wood together I think that would be enough strength to hold it together. But lilrichard is right you will stub your toes at least once a day on them :twisted: Also it wouldn't hurt while you are in the middle of the project to also put a few gussit in place for extra support.
Yeah it was a blast had my brother and brother in-law with me my brother in-law was sitting on the front of the console when we were catching air he came out of the seat a good 2 feet. :bounce:
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Has anyone else noticed when you get back from vacation that work sucks that much more lmao. But to my question for today I'm thinking of replacing my trim tab gauge (since I don't have tabs) with a fuel gauges with a sending unit in the tank where the old gauge it. Question neither the sending unit I'm looking at or the gauge say if they are compatiable. Or does anyone have any suggestions of a different brand that's comprilble in price? Whole set up is 35 bucks or so with theses parts. Thanks in advance for any help gentlemen.
Marine Boat Tempo Electric Fuel Sender 570ESU (E20)
SeaChoice Tempo Black Bezel 12 Volt Boat Fuel Gauge
Here's a link to both
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SeaChoic ... 240%3A1318 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SeaChoice-Tempo-Black-Bezel-12-Volt-Boat-Fuel-Gauge_W0QQitemZ150336287408QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBoat_Parts_Accessories_Gear?hash=item150336287408&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Marine-B ... enameZWDVW (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Marine-Boat-Tempo-Electric-Fuel-Sender-570ESU-E20_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ31286QQihZ025QQitemZ380120500507QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)
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Has anyone else noticed when you get back from vacation that work sucks that much more lmao. But to my question for today I'm thinking of replacing my trim tab gauge (since I don't have tabs) with a fuel gauges with a sending unit in the tank where the old gauge it. Question neither the sending unit I'm looking at or the gauge say if they are compatiable. Or does anyone have any suggestions of a different brand that's comprilble in price? Whole set up is 35 bucks or so with theses parts. Thanks in advance for any help gentlemen.
Marine Boat Tempo Electric Fuel Sender 570ESU (E20)
SeaChoice Tempo Black Bezel 12 Volt Boat Fuel Gauge
Here's a link to both
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SeaChoic ... 240%3A1318 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SeaChoice-Tempo-Black-Bezel-12-Volt-Boat-Fuel-Gauge_W0QQitemZ150336287408QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBoat_Parts_Accessories_Gear?hash=item150336287408&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Marine-B ... enameZWDVW (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Marine-Boat-Tempo-Electric-Fuel-Sender-570ESU-E20_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ31286QQihZ025QQitemZ380120500507QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)
No-one needs a vacation more than the person returning from one. The gauge and sender should be compatible, its pretty basic wiring and those look to be a fairly basic sender and gauge.
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Cool thanks tired of opening the hatch to see how much fuel I have.
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That's amazing that your tank mounted gauge still works- mine did not.
Have you measured the depth of your tank? I measured mine a while back before I switched over to the fuel gauge and sender but I can't remember what the measurement was... I acquired a sender from Key West that was supposed to be temporary, but it didn't extend the full depth of the tank, so now when I'm reading empty I actually have about 10-15gallons of gas. Seemed like a good idea to have a "reserve" amount of fuel, but I think I'd rather know for sure. Is that sender adjustable?
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I haven't measured the tank but that sender is 6 to 12" in adjustment. Should I just measure the stock gauge from bolting flange to the bottom of the float or just measure the tank?
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Ideally, you don't want your sender to touch the bottom of the tank; so I would adjust it to just above the bottom of the tank. Seems I remember welding an aluminum ring on top of where the old gauge mounted to give me something to tap into so I could mount the new sender... I can't remember what it used to look like now... Some things really are better in moderation :drunken:
On the subject- Do you have the original tank in your boat?
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Yes but is in surprisingly good shape and I believe I can use the existing wholes that are already tapped for the old gauge. I might have to drill them out and retap for a bigger screw though.
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Yes but is in surprisingly good shape and I believe I can use the existing wholes that are already tapped for the old gauge. I might have to drill them out and retap for a bigger screw though.
Hmmm... My tank was in good shape too, but if I may, I suggest you pull it out and at least give it a good cleaning/degreasing. 36yrs of fuel and elements make the chances of your fuel lines/pickup clogging up pretty good, and that's no fun when you're on the water. A lot of folks here are big supporters of replacing the tank, but if it's in good shape, I would pull it and pressure test it just to be sure, then give it a good cleaning, if for nothing else but peace of mind.
One thing I do remember about the tank when I was replacing the sender- the gauge of aluminum used was fairly thin and tapping into that seems like it would be difficult and wouldn't give you much thread to work with, and finding a sender with matching mounting locations is probably next to impossible. Not saying it wouldn't work, just that the extra aluminum from welding a ring on top of the tank meant that I could torque and seal the new sender much better.
Just a thought. :pl:
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Yeah when I first got the boat and was having problems with the engine I took the tank lid off and did a surface inspection never pulled it but I did take a fiber optic camera and scopped the whole tank from the inside its still in one piece. When I repaint the inside of the boat I'm going to do away with the "removable cable tray" or whatever it's called and pull the tank to clean it or replace if needed.
My question is on the front of the sole on the corner of the hatches and sole their are stress cracks towards the side of the boat and the one side looks like it's cracked all the way through the glass :puker: if the wood is not badly rotted can I glass over that spot and be done with it :scratch: . It's to dark now but tomorrow I'll post some pics for you'll. Thanks for the help in advance
Chris
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Well taking a page from compcrasher86 I decided to try out the lego light that he made. Went on ebay and purchased 50 flat top L.E.D.'s for 10 bucks, went digging through my old toy box and found a handful of legos and got to work. The whole project took about two hours minus drying time for the silicone, and this is the result.
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/088.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/089.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/090.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/091.jpg)
See the difference between dome top L.E.D's and flat tops.
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/092.jpg)
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Man,Gause has nothing on you now! Can you do different colors so you could have mood fishing? How did the rock guard work? :nemo:
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Thanks I haven't put the prow guard on yet have to sand and repaint it first but it should work great hopefully I'll put it on by the end of the weekend. I'm sure you could put whatever color you like I'm going to put two or three red ones so I can have them on while I run at night for people to run around the boat.
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... I'm going to put two or three red ones so I can have them on while I run at night for people to run around the boat.
:thumleft:
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Quick question just bought a single wire electric fuel sending unit from boaters world when I hook it up to an autometer gauge that I had laying around from my drag car (also a single wire) the gauge goes to full and stays??? any suggestion :scratch: :scratch:
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Either the sending unit or the gauge needs to be grounded to give you an accurate reading. I'm guessing since both your gauge and sending unit are single wire, you don't have a ground running to either?
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They are single wire sending units but there is a ground I just mocked it up inside my house to make sure an automotive gauge would work with it I was thinking the same thing. That it needs the ground cool well went out fishing today 20-25 knots :shock: only went two miles out in the bay my wife caught a 4 foot cuda nothing else to write home about. The boat races are tomorrow so no fishing for me I need my speed :cheers:
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Quick question on Aswaff400 topic he's running a 17 pitch prop same as mine but only has a 112 omc and he's turning the same rpm and running the same speed so my question is should I go with a larger pitch for my 140 omc or is his hull designed with less drag than mine and that's why his motor can turn the same pitch ? :scratch:
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Had a good weekend on the water caught three sea trout this weekend that were monsters the slot on them is 15" to 20" well they were a little over lmao
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/SSPX0470.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/SSPX0471.jpg)
Friday was beautiful ride back
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/SSPX0475.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/SSPX0473.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/SSPX0472.jpg)
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Nice sunset - too bad there's not either a boat or a bikini in the pic... :oops:
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Yeah I know the wife doesn't like going shark fishing but the sunset was to nice to not take a pic of. So now that I've had the boat for some time now and the motor is pretty old 1991 evinrude 140 vro what should I do to insure the motor keeps kicking :scratch: I've replaced all the fuel and oil lines what now? Thanks in advance for the help. BTW maxed out on yellowtail last night smallest one was 16" :cheers: strangely enough at the end of the night caught a mackerel that had six hooks in it stomach :puker: that had to hurt
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Hey Chris, have you changed your T-stats? If you don't get a quick answer here go over and register at www.iboats.com (http://www.iboats.com) they have a whole sub-forum on Johnson and Evinrude. Someone will answer you back quick and it seems like most of them really know their stuff. One guy has like 42,000 posts!
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You may want to consider using the extended life oil. Pennzoil and some others make a special blend 2 cycle oil that supposedly cuts piston friction and works better in older motors. I don't know if it really makes any difference, but it costs about the same and probably can't hurt...
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So now that I've had the boat for some time now and the motor is pretty old 1991 evinrude 140 vro what should I do to insure the motor keeps kicking :scratch: I've replaced all the fuel and oil lines what now?
This one might be obvious, but have you changed the oil in your lower unit? Some other maybe obvious things I do after a trip- spray down the engine and trim unit with WD40, and of course, flush the engine with fresh water.
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Yes yes and always badon :mrgreen: I have changed the fluid in the lower and always rinse and flush cant ride her as hard as I do with cleaning her off :oops:
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Its been awhile since I've worked on the boat but next weekend i plan on stripping the console and filling all the 200 plus holes from over the 36 years of different accessories. My question is what would be the strongest way to fill them. My guess is to grind the backside and lay a small sheet of glass on the back then fill the front with fiberglass bondo? I would be greatly appreciative of any suggestions.
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My question is what would be the strongest way to fill them. My guess is to grind the backside and lay a small sheet of glass on the back then fill the front with fiberglass bondo?
I have to do the same thing with my console and your plan sounds right on to me. Keep in mind, I have limited knowledge when it comes to fiberglass repair (a couple surfboard ding repairs). Would it also be wise to lay a thin fiberglass cloth on the topside once the holes have been filled, or would that be overkill?
I also have a question for you. What was your process for filling the Bilge drain? I removed the brass flange on mine and everything looked okay from the the outside, but it feels like bare wood on the inside of the hole.
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I've been using this product on the console and its been easy to work with.
http://www.adtechplastics.com/pc-20-13-p78-high-heat-resistant-fillerfairing-compound.aspx
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On mine I used 5 minutes marine 2 part epoxy made by Goop for the screw holes, for larger ones, I made a fiberglass sheet 11"x11" a bit more of 1/16" thick and cut squares the size I needed to cover the holes I was filling, glued them from behind the console (with the same epoxy)and finish it off on the outside with glass. very easy
Those home made fiberglass sheet are really practical, use wax paper on a flat surface, lay some glass on top+resin, leave it set and you have a sheet :)
Marc..
(http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww177/Marc1956/fillingholes1.jpg)
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Cool thanks Marq sounds like the method I'll be using. I've been really lazy when it comes to the boat lately so I haven't done really anything lately to speak of but when I do I'll be sure to post some pics for you guys :lol: :lol:
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I've been really lazy when it comes to the boat lately so I haven't done really anything lately to speak of
Well get off your butt and start working on your boat dammit, you think we're going to wait forever for mister flkeysaqua to finish his little project!! :mrgreen:
Marc..
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Ok I came across a deal I could not pass up today a brand new T-top ready to go for $600 :shock: Sch40 1 1/2 frame the whole nine yards so needless to say :cheers:
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/PB190605.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/PB190606.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/PB190609.jpg)
Someone else that's happy
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/PB190612.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/PB190613.jpg)
I have to do alittle adjusting but I had to see it on the boat ASAP
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I can tell HD is doing better or your just working too hard! :wink:
A t-top always sets these hulls off so well. Looks great. What are you going to do with those V-braces in front of windshield? :thumleft:
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:thumleft:
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One of two things either cut it flush with the top of the windscreen and put a crossbrace from side to side or the old one off and put a new set on that are longer that will sit flush with the bottom of the windscreen. As far as THD we cant complain in thi economy they've done alot to stay on top down here but then again we are in the high grossing market in the country for our market.
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Ok here's some new pic of the progress
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/PB300619.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/PB300618.jpg)
Hto notch the console for the T-top worked out gives me more room on the ides of the boat
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/PB300617.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/PB300622.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/PB300621.jpg)
Got the little smudge out after the pic
Quick question there is some orange peel from rolling on the topside paint what is your guy's recomendation for removing it?????
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Looking good there Chris , what kind of paint did you use?
Marc..
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Pettit Easypoxy I love that stuff the rest of the boat will be done in it aswell thinking about going with a light blue or green for the deck not sure yet :scratch: maybe after the swordfish go back north. I'm itching to get out there a guy off Key Colony caught 508 pounder :shock: the other day.
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So its been a bus weekend with making the mold and a few badges for the 22-2 owners on here and finishing the T-top and the accesories to go with it.
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/PC130050.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/PC130052.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/PC130053.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/PC130054.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/PC130055.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/PC130059.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/PC130058.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/PC130062.jpg)
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Ok so console/ T-top if finished the only thing I have to do is add the locking trim stuff to the edges of the fiberglass there are two types I'm looking at on that is straight vinyl NO METAL and one that does have metal what would you guys prefer for youselves? thanks in advance
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You talking about trimming out the access hole in the console?
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I used trimlock molding with metal in it like the original one and so far, very satisfied with them.
I think I used 46' to do the hole boat
Marc..
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Yes Rick just the few spots on the console I don't think I want to go all the way around the gunwale But then again :scratch: Gee thanks Marq you got me thinking now :lol: ??? Do you have any pics of yours Marq? My problem is it will cost $12.95 to ship one yard or up to 20 yards so I'd hate to pay twice for shipping if Im going to end up putting on the gunwale I might as well buy it now and put it on after I paint.
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Sure can :) If you save the picture, you should be able to zoom it. I put them every where, like the original
It was money well spent
(http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww177/Marc1956/DSCN0591.jpg)
Marc..
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Thanks Marq great looking boat. :thumleft:
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Great job! Thats a real classic
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Ok so Marq got me motivated to finish painting my boat so that's what I'm in the process of doing now. First thing I had to do i get rid of that rotted wood in the tank lid.
I hope at 38 yrs old my wood isn't that soft :shock: It could have been scooped out with a spoon.
I then took every screw, snap and piece of hardware off the boat and filled all the whole with cabosil, sanded it smooth now I'm just waiting for a good time to paint. Hopfully the wind lays down soon. Looking for Rick's step by step on non-skid?
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Looking for Rick's step by step on non-skid?
It's not a step by step but pretty easy to figure it out
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1991 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1991)
Marc..
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Ok so I have placed the new core in the tank lid and glassed it in problem I have is when the core was curing I placed 10 concrete blocks on the top to keep it straight but like and idiot took them off when it felt dry but apparently the inside did not kick so their is a slight bend to it front and back. Since I dont want to screw the lid down (dont like the look of it being screwed down) How can I attach the lid? :scratch: :scratch: any thoughts.
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so their is a slight bend to it front and back.
Meaning that if you put the lid back on top of the tank, the center of the lid will be higher than the deck?
Marc..
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No that the center is flush but the front and back sit higher than the center. Not becaue of extra glass but it actually pulled the core in and twisted slightly? :scratch:
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Oh I see!! Would it be possible to make a cut from underneath were the bend starts just deep enough to go through the core, add weight and just re glass the cut ?
Marc..
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So upon further inspection it appears that the edges of the core is where it curled up. Not the core itself but the edge of the fiberglass (the orginal top sheet) I left about an 1/8 of an inch to make sure there was no air gaps. So I could fill once it cured I think that is was caused it in addition to taking the weight off too soon. So I ground the edges off the core on the bottom and reglassed it with ALOT of weight holding everything straight, will have to see if that help in the morning not going to take a chance with taking it off early.
Here's some pics from the first day of working on this
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/SSPX0753.jpg)
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Ok got the lid squared away. Been working a little here and there on the boat between work, rain, planning our trip to PA and buying a new truck. I've some how managed to get one coat on the outside and the gunwale haven't taking a pic yet but will tomorrow or he next day. All thats left is to sand the inside DOWN PAST THE ORGINAL NON-SKID yay and paint. Question what have you guys used to secure the tank lid down with if I use 5200 it will never come up and silicone seems to not like boats soo..... What do you guys recommend also keep in mind that I dont plan on using fasteners on the tank lid? Thanks again ladies and gents.
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I've started using 3M 4000 UV. I'll be using fastners so it shouldn't be a problem.
You may want to try the 4200. http://www.3m.com/product/information/M ... alant.html (http://www.3m.com/product/information/Marine-Fast-Cure-4200-Adhesive-Sealant.html)
Seems it was designed for future removal unlike the 5200. Read some posts on different forums about it yellowing with age (that's why the 4000 UV) but I also read the same for 5200 and it still looks pretty white after 14 years on the CCP.
Good luck.
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Thanks Capt Bob thats what I'll do maybe I'll bite the bullet and screw it down in a few spots only. My only concern is water getting into the core via the screw wholes. I just figure no whole no water right?
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Right you are.
Screws by their design are hard the seal. Even squeezing sealant down the hole often doesn't work.
If you choose to attach in several places, two options to ponder.
1. Over-drill the hole and fill with resin. Then drill the proper size for the screw. This sounds like a pretty good deal if the resin stays attached to the core sides in the hole. Sounds like the best way to seal.
2. Countersink the screws and seal over the top. It sounds good but I wonder how it will hold up under foot traffic over time.
Your top looks like it fits real well so getting a good seal should not be a problem. By walking on it now (before sealing) you can get a good idea of how much it "flexes". If it sits pretty level, I'd seal it with the 4200 and let the four winds blow. You can always come back and re-fasten with screws if things don't work out.
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Thanks Capt Bob thats what I'll do maybe I'll bite the bullet and screw it down in a few spots only. My only concern is water getting into the core via the screw wholes. I just figure no whole no water right?
I used rubber washer under my screws that holds the lid, console too, I thought about O-rings but the washers seemed to work, I went for some that were a bit smaller then the head of the screws, I tightened the screws until I could see the rubber squeezing out, I thing it gives a clean look and easy to undo, at the same time acts like a lock washer.
Oh btw, to you have the original screws? I love them with their big head
Marc..
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Thanks guy I think you're right Capt Bob if it doesn't work without screws then I'll screw it. Might use Marq's suggestion on rubber washers. Just finished sanding the deck holy :*: what a pain that checker pattern is deep. I'm going to go with the orgininal design for the water runs white lines and Oyster white for the deck to match the console. I also picked up new rod holders and a four speaker cd/am/fm/mp3 player I'm going to mount the speakers under the gunwales and the cd player in the dry box so the boat keeps most of its stock looks as possible. I know I know pics they are coming. I promise
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Ok so the painting is done minus the cooler and stowage compartments in the bow. Rick's non-skid idea works great have to touch-up some spots but nothing serious. Ended up using two quarts of interlux non-skid 40 bucks a quart :shock: .
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/Vacation03-14-10407.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/Vacation03-14-10408.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/Vacation03-14-10409.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/Vacation03-14-10410.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/Vacation03-14-10413.jpg)
Shiny
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Oh at least my truck matches my boat :cheers:
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/Scranton020.jpg)
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I think that's the way to go Fl.
Your cover looks like it will fit flush with no wobbles, so the question is, what caulking are you going to use?
Mine is warped. I've tried to set it out in the sun with weights, lean it against a wall and just about everything else except sleep in it. With the additional hatch cover, I can reach 6 of the 10 screws so I'm going to thru-bolt those and use the factory ones on the remaining 4 holes. I too like the idea of the washer/o-ring on the screws but on my hatches, I covered the screws with caulk.
It doesn't look very good. :(
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Looking good dude :salut:
So what is next on the menu ? :bounce:
Marc..
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All that's really to do is the motor. That's a ways away though unless I find a good deal :lol:
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Looks great Chris! Can't wait to see it at the gathering!
On a side note. Capt. Bob do you think you could score the bottom of your hatch with several shallow cuts and once the warp is gone reglass those areas?
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On a side note. Capt. Bob do you think you could score the bottom of your hatch with several shallow cuts and once the warp is gone reglass those areas?
Last night I discovered that I can thru-bolt the back two connections on the hatch, This makes 8 of the 10 connections thru-bolted.
By using a backer plate on those connections I should be able to draw down evenly on the hatch and "force out" the warp.
That's my current plan anyway.
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Thanks le€wis, good to hear Capt Bob. Hopefully I'll have some pics from fishing this weekend. Just a tip if you buy stuff for a project for months down the road remember where you put them, looked for my rod holders and bow light for an hour today :twisted: Also got my plastic today so Bhard and lewis your badges should be on the way tomorrow they are stiffening up as we speak. Anyone else that has asked for badges remind me if I haven't already sent you an email.
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Oh Capt Bob I forgot I'm using 5200 to attach the tank lid, just caulking the sides as opposed to underneath I HOPE that I'll be able to pull it up if need be I think I should be able to cut the sides of 5200 off then pop it off.
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Yep,
The 5200 will give you good holding power in lieu of the fasteners. That will be one clean look. :thumright:
I just bolted mine down today.
I found some small o-rings to fit on the bolts and held them in place with a dab of silicon.
Since I was able to thru-bolt eight of the ten fasteners, I removed the warp from the cover. I'm going to try the 4000UV and see how that holds up. Following your lead, I didn't place a sealant bead down low with the thought of just caulking the edges.
Like you said, if the 4000 doesn't work, I should be able to dig it out and try something different.
Good luck.
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Cool glad I could be of some assistance :thumleft: 90% done now :cheers: after the easter festivities I'll finish this piggy. Pics to follow tonight.
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So today I have to run the speaker and navigation light wires thru the pvc I attached to under the gunnel yesterday. My question is the strip that runs up the side of the boat is that where they originally ran the wires for the navigation lights? Also I made new under gunnel rod holders out of starboard they came out of pretty good, what do you guys think
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/SSPX0838.jpg)
Some pic before we go to an Easter egg hunt
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/SSPX0840.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/SSPX0841.jpg)
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I made new under gunnel rod holders out of starboard they came out of pretty good, what do you guys think
How did you get them so smooth? :scratch:
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I routed them with a straight blade then a quarter round and if you do make a mistake or something from the original transfer over to the new piece you can sand starboard just not with a belt sander, a random orbital sander works great.
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:thumright:
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I made my rod holders out of starboard and they are great except where they don't touch the side they tend to flex when I walk the gunnals
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I made my rod holders out of starboard and they are great except where they don't touch the side they tend to flex when I walk the gunnals
What size did you make them out of? These are 3/4 and these are attached to the sides via 5200 if you sand the starboard with 220 grit sandpaper then lightly hit them with a propane torch NOT map gas 5200 will then stick to starboard. (haven't taking it out on the water yet but I think they should be better than the wood one IMHO)
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Ok I know I haven't been supplying enough Aquaporn for you guys so here's a little for you guys. Finally got my badges all painted up and installed.
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4190081.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4190087.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4190093.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4190094.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4190095.jpg)
And finally was able to take some pictures that show the water runs on the new paint job.
P.S. Rick's non-skid tip works great. :cheers:
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P3300025.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4120067.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4140071.jpg)
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss175/baloughme/P4140079.jpg)
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Strong! Very strong. Those boxes really turned out nice, and the hatches are the icing on the cake. Betcha can't wait for the upcoming reunion. Awesome job, keep posting.
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But you didn't use gelcoat, correct?
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No sir I use Pettit easypoxy loved the lay down and one step use of it before when I did my bottom paint so went back with it for the topside. And I think i could actually do a second coat over the non-skid and it wouldn't hide it but for now I'm going to leave well enough alone.
Thanks Gran unfortunately I more than likely am going to have to pass I just joined the Fire Department down here and my second class falls on May 15th so... Will keep you guys posted they have cancled the last class so hopefully they do it again.
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So it sounds like you used part of my process, everything but the gelcoat eh?
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Sweeeeet! Man that looks good. I see you removed the 2 scuppers on the bow :thumleft:. Looks alot cleaner without them IMO. Cant even tell they were there. What did you fill the holes with.
.
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Thanks skoot I think it looks a lot cleaner also I started by grinding the glass down enough to get two layers glass over top, then filled the underside with a round disc of 1/2inch marine grade plywood (leftover from the tank lid), and finished with two more layers on the bottom side.
Btw I'm thinking about painting the old rubrail for the time being, it kinda came by accident I left it on when I painted (didn't feel like dealing with it at the time) and now that is has paint on some of it I realized that it actually sticks really well and doesn't look like it will come off that easily. What’s your guys opinion?
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Ok so now the I'm back of course I need help lol a few weeks ago we had an ALS competition on Boot Key which now thanks to a falling apart draw bridge is an isolated Island. I was using my boat with others to tender people back and forth from the City marina and Boot Key. A friend of mine hopped back on the boat to grab a drink and forgot to hold the dockline and drifted the stern in the mangrove with alot of mud. He proceeded to start my boat and power thru it :puker: :puker: :puker: . On the way back at the end of the day idling thru Boot Key habor I noticed that the motor was not pissing and the lower pan was smoking. I thought this was strange (not knowing what my friend had done) I shut her down for a few minutes and reversed the motor clearing the debris. The motor ran and runs fine at idle speeds but when I plane off the motor jumps and will not go above 3,200 rpm's it will stay there but if I try to throttle up it keeps jumping. Doesn't go into save mode just hesitates and jumps.
The motor is a 1991 evinrude 140
So for I've changed the plugs thinking they were fuel fowled (wasn't that)
changed the thermostats (no bueno)
did a compression test if memory serves its been a few weeks but I believe they were all 130 exactly
And I flushed the motor with the thermostats out
Please help guy I think I cooked the power pack but I don't want to spend $160.00 bucks if that's not it.
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So there are no warning buzzers going off?
Could be he slammed it around enough that the timing is off now. Sounds like a fuel delivery issue also.
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I don't think he ran aground the mud there is really deep so I don't think the motor got shook up. Here's my findings for troubleshooting the CDI powerpack
Engine Will Not Rev Above 2500 RPM and Shakes Hard (SLOW Activated):
1. Verify the engine is not actually over-heating by using a digital pyrometer.
2. Check the routing of the tan temperature wires, an example of a bad location is shown below. The tan wires have
to be located as far away as possible from the spark plug wires.
3. Disconnect the temperature sensors and see if the engine performs normally. If it does, check both temperature
sensors and replace the defective one.
4. If there is not any indication of a problem at this point, replace the power pack.
Note: Low readings on all checks indicate a possible problem with the flywheel magnets that require checking or low cranking speed.
My only issue with this is my engine will rev up to 3200 RPM but does this exactly what is discribed. :scratch: :scratch: :scratch: :scratch: :scratch: :scratch:
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On an unrelated note I've been thinking about replacing my transom soon, just for piece of mind.
My issues are as follows.
1. I do want to eventually raise the transom and close it in, however I don't have a bracket or a new(er) full shaft motor yet.
2. Can I pour the transom to the stock height now and raise it later?
3. I've heard that it is not reccomended to mount an outboard bracket on a poured transom, which is the route I will be going once I buy a new(er) motor.
And feedback in this matter would be awesome.
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I've heard that it is not reccomended to mount an outboard bracket on a poured transom, which is the route I will be going once I buy a new(er) motor.
That makes no sense since the transoms were poured on AS since at least '92 (mine is)
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First thing...welcome back to the fold flkeysaqua...been a good while. Always a respected presence here. Welcome home.
The motor concerns...no biggee. Hopefully Fitz see's you're earlier post and will expound.
The poured transom.... Poured transoms when executed correctly can be as good as any. Bondobill's transom rebuild (recent post) made me a believer.
Rick is correct IMHO..the factory-spec poured transom was a step above at the time...and bottom line, no rotten plywood down the road. Mount away if she is sound.
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Thanks for the welcome back Gran sounds good I'll have to look back it's been awhile since I saw that post. To my other question I could pour it twice without too much trouble.
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I have a 78 196 cuddy. Couldnt help but notice yours had the same crack at the top of the transom. I didnt read all 13 pages of the post so I may not be following exactly. But how did the repair work out from your first pics (less the stitches in finger)? Mine was sealed with marine sealant so I dont think to much water got into it.
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First thing I did was ground all the old spots that were repaired incorrectly i.e. filled with 5200 which included the crack on the transom. All the old screw holes were also drilled out a few sizes bigger and filled with hardwood dowels that were soaked in resin then glasses over. Hope this helps.
P.s. if you use a 40 grit flap wheel don't get to close :shock: