Classic AquaSport
General Aquasport Forums => Aquasport Discussion => Topic started by: seabob4 on September 26, 2008, 02:07:23 PM
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Hey Guys (and Girls),
I'm an ex employee from 94-00 who just kinda had my Aquasport/Wellcraft heritage rekindled through THT. My main boats were the 225/245 (250) Ospreys, as well as the 215 DC, and the 225/245 (250) Explorers. Built the only 8 fold down dual station OEM 245/250 Ospreys. Even did a few 275 Explorers, one of the ugliest boats I've ever had the pleasure building! All electrical, plumbing, and motors, as well as t-tops and building the cockpits.
I have an extremely intimate knowledge of these boats, along with their Wellcraft brethren of the same vintage. If anybody has any questions regarding their craft, feel free to ask. I hope I can be of some help.
I'm at Pro-Line now, so thanks for having me. And if anyone has a 23 Tournament Cat out there, I built them all!
BTW, this is who you are talking to:
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/Proline%20website%20pics/Pics186.jpg)
As one of my old bosses, little Johnny Stamas used to say, "a face with the name"...
Now you've got my face! Do I hear breaking mirrors? :shock:
Bob C
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Hello Seabob,
I have a used 1999 245 Explorer and I love it. Does this boat have any wood or foam in it?
Where are the boats weak spots?
Thanks
Judd
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Judd,
The deck was cored with 1/2" end-grain balsa but the hull is wood free. Foam filled stringers and a transom filled with 2-part "pour foam", which cured to the hardness of concrete! Very stout, shouldn't ever give you any problems.
The only problem area you might run into is cracking in the splashwell radiuses, especially if you have twin 150s, the max power for this boat. However, all boats with splashwells, regardless of make, typically suffer this problem.
Do you have a factory hardtop? No problems, just a nice option to have.
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Thanks for the info.
I have a single Evinrude 225 ficht. So far the engine has run great. No hard top, just a bimini top.
love the boat.
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If anybody emailed me with a question, the site "regressed" for a while, so try it again.
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Seabob,
I recently purchased a 1996 225 Explorer.
What can you tell me about that model?
Was it manufactured well?
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Your '96 Explorer should give you no problems. If you have a single, your splashwell shouldn't show signs of spiderwebbing in the radii. Twin 150s might. But the transom core is 2-part "pour foam", strong as concrete.
The only issue might be your fishbox, and pumping it out. If you have some issues with it, I can tell you how to do it right. Another thing? Your access to your wiring behind the helm. Enlarge the opening and install an opening hatch, not pie plate. Makes dealing with switch/breaker issues a lot easier.
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Seabob4,
Thanks for the information. You sound like a great resource.
I am actually going to the coast to pick up the boat on Sunday. I bought it a coupe of weeks ago but have not had time to go get it.
When I took it out for a test everything seems to work fine and the gentleman I bought it from has been great to work with.
I has the single 200 Johnson.
I am sure I will "use" your knowledge later.
JP
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JP,
Feel free to "use" my knowledge. The 200 Ocean Pro/Ocean Runner was the most popular install on the 225, and also the base motor. A 225HP was the preferred for a single.
An improvement which occurred around 97-98 was a 3-piece hinged fishbox hatch with a fixed center section which was a whole lot better than the big one-piece hatch. Opened from both sides, and you didn't have to take the whole hatch off. I believe you can still contact Wellcraft CS and get a replacement. Just a great improvement, but not a "must have".
Have fun, and let me know if you need any help.
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BTW, the name's Bob.
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I just bought a 2000 aquasport explorer 275 this past spring and I am pretty happy with it. can you tell me if this boat is pre genmar or not. :lol:
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By the way some pictures are in my gallery
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DT,
Your Explorer if smack in the middle of Genmars ownership and production of Aquasport. Which is actually a good thing. Other than your cabinetry below decks and the deck coring, there is no wood in the hull. What is your power, do you have a genset, and where do you fish? You shouldn't be afraid of any but the snottiest conditions as she is a very stable boat, but her best power was twin 225s. Yamahas we're the choice at the time.
Sorry about my "ugly" comments on the 275, but she does look like she ran into a brick wall with her nose at one time or another!
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I am powered by twin evinrude 200s. Did you ever here of the boat having a problem turning to port.
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DT,
What exactly is the problem you experience turning to port? Every builder uses the same motors and Teleflex sterering systems, i.e. Seastar. Describe your condition, and maybe I can shed some light on the matter. Sounds like an issue with your helm pump.
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boat turns to starboard on a dime actually to easy ,just the opposite to port steering wheel is very hard to turn when i force it boat will make the turn but list excessivly to port and turn is very wide.I actually installed a new helm in june because of excessive play and lack of control no longer have that problem but still have the turning problem.The faster I am moving the worse the problem gets.
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP :lol:
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Sounds like prop torque steer. How do you have the trim tab on the motor set? Do you have hydraulic steering or cable?
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I have hydro streering and my tabs are set straight back
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DT,
Your torque tabs are set correctly for counter-rotaters. Sounds like, from what you describe, when you turn hard to port, the portside wants to lean over, and there is a feeling of the water not grabbing the hull and turning her. Interesting.
I'll tell you what. If you can wait a couple of days, I will ask our Marketing Manager Mon/Tues. He was Aquasports Sales VP when I was there, and when your boat was built. He may have some insight, and maybe a fix. One more thing. Check your weight distribution down below in the machinery spaces. If you have a Genset, is it installed on centerline? Should be. BTW, where are you located?
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Next issue to tackle is your cylinder. Any leakage noted on the starboard side of the cylinder? Any "chattering" at the helm? That would indicate air. Have you re-bled the system? All of the above will help diagnose the problem.
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No problem waiting for any help you can give me.Iam located in Bklyn NY jamaica bay,my genset is centered.No chattering or leaks in cylinder.I have also rebled system .
Again thanks for all your help
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We'll see if we can't get to the bottom of your problem. This is a very odd situation, and there must be something causing it. Let you know what I find out.
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maybe what he means is not that the engine is physically turning, but the boat itself is turning/leaning port, even if the engine is straight. This happened to my friend's boat, turned out his batterys had broken loose and shifted to port. Look for unbalanced weight or any drag underneath. The littlest things can throw off a boat's balance
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I have to figure that with all the knowledge on this forum, we'll get to the bottom of your steering issue.
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Boat sits perfectly when at rest no list in either direction.Ihave checked everything I could find below deck for possible movement or shifting and found nothing.
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ok well before when you had the old helm it was very hard to turn port. If the boat is resisting still, you are probably putting unnecessary stress on your hydraulic steering which could eventually lead to failure, so we gotta figure this one out
when you are turned to port, is the engine physically turning as it should be? if so, then there is something up with the hull I would try and inspect the outside of the hull all around and look for any defects/insimilarities to the other side.
Did we ever consider the problem may be with the engines? Are both engines trimmed, propped, and configured identically? Make sure they are both running at the same RPMs and it might be worth getting their power checked out. If one engine is underperforming than it will cause the boat to steer slightly. Try turning off one evinrude, raising it, and driving with the other. I always put down the safety lever next to the hydraulic trim so the engine is not bouncing up and down on the trim, but resting on the metal lever instead, anyways, if the boat does not have steering problems with one engine up, then you have figured out your problem[/code]
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The hull is fine no deformities nothing odd looking I am beginning to think it is something with the piston when under load.
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One other thing I thought of. Since the helm pump was changed and no improvement, it sounds like you might have a kinked steering hose.That would account for the increased effort steering to port. That would be your starboard hose.
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I will chcck that whenI go down next week But wouldnt it do the same when the boat is at rest.
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DT,
Not particularly. We have had boats that, when the steering was initially bled at the plant, all seemed fine. The boat would be taken out for sea trial, and stiffness was reported by the test team. Kinked steering line when the boat was rigged turned out to be the culprit.
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OK will give it a shot and hope its that simple
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That would be nice. Let me know what you find. If you don't find anything out of the ordinary, I'll see if Teleflex CS can help out.
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OK I wont be at the boat again until friday,I will check it out then.
Again thanks for your help :P
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Ok SeaBob spent some time friday crawling around checking the hydro hoses for the steering no kinks that i can see the only thing I can see where the hoses exit the console there is a single coil of both hoses tie wrapped and secured to the gunnel. Could it be possible that the piston it self is screwed up?
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hey bob, i have a 96 225 exp was wondering what the notch on the bottom of the hull was for(the one right before the rise on the bow on the bottom) other then catching the trailer cant figure out what its for.
and as you stated before just how do you get the little bit of water out of the fish box? ..............................thanks
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OK,
We'll address 2 issues here.
DT. Sounds like an email to my friends at Teleflex Tech Support is in order. Will do post haste.
Labboss, I am confused about the "notch" you are talking about. If I remember correctly, the Explorer/Osprey hull had a lifting strake on both sides of the keel, but other than that, there was no notch. Send me a pic, my email is in my profile. Now, as far as draining "all" the water out of your fishbox? Never happen. The drain, which is on the vertical aft face of the fishbox is a little to high to drain the water that collects in the molded receiver for the drain. Drain as best you can with the pump, then wipe up the remaining water with a towel and throw it in the wash. That's about all you can do.
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DT,
Have emailed my Teleflex buddy in British Columbia. Should get a reply tomorrow at work. He's pretty good. Let you know.
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OK will wait for your info THANKS :roll:
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DT,
The two replies I got from my Teleflex man.
Have him check the following areas for me
tiebar connection. Where the tiebar attaches to the engine without the cylinder, there are two little small holes in the rod end ball of the tiebar. The first hole (closest to the engine with the cylinder) is to be covered by the threaded rod. The second hole (closest to the engine without the cylinder) is not to be covered. Have him make sure that his is as stated as it could be a binding
Air in the system. Have him push the engines back and fourth. While pushing watch the steering cylinder shaft move in and out. If it moves more than 1/8" then he has a little air in the system still and needs to bleed it out more.
is it heavy at the dock and while underway, or only while underway?
I don't think that it would be a kinked line as this would cause heavy effort throughout the system (one restriction causes both sides to be a problem)
Bob:
This is very odd....
Have your buddy check the torque tab on the engine to start as this sounds a lot like a load to the port type issue...
Doesn't really sound like a cylinder issue, but
How long has it done this?
So, as you can see, he is quite stumped also. The tie bar issue is interesting, as there are 2 small "inspection" holes in the ball socket end on the port motor. You should see the threaded rod in the inboard hole, but not the outboard hole. Now the first thing I would do, if I had the ability and the wherewithall (which I do), I would totally disconnect the steering system from the motors, and see how they move side-to-side. You can leave the cylinder on the starboard motor, just drain the system and disconnect the hoses. After this, I would reconnect the hoses to the cylinder, bleed the system, leave the tiebar unattached, and see how the system reacts. Then I would reattach the tiebar.
This is puzzling, but remember, "Do not let an inanimate object beat you." My motto.
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OK I will try these fixes hope one works will let you know :wink:
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bob sent you pics of notch tried to put them on here but there is no upload opption anymore
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(http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr147/labboss2003/100_1189.jpg)(http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr147/labboss2003/100_1186.jpg)(http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr147/labboss2003/100_1185.jpg)
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Labboss,
Now I see. Yes, I remember this little step. Have no idea what it was for. It's on the keel, yet far enough forward that, when on plane, is certainly not going to have an effect on hull performance, and certainly won't have an affect on getting on plane. This hull goes quite a ways back, well before my time there. Someone from the old South Florida era can probably answer this question better than I.
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looks to me like that is on there just to give a little more re-inforcement to the front curve of the keel where rocks,etc are most likely to scrape whilst beaching
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Maybe. Might take a look inside the forward bilge compartment and see if there is anything that indicates the need for it. But I doubt you'll see anything.
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the boat is a 1996, so as far as the notch the problem with it is, it catches the trailer every time you launch or load it, kinda thought all the exployers had it .was thinking about putting a roller in place of that plate and bar setup , but i think it will still catch. any thoughts would be helpfull...........thanks
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That's weird :!: :!: :scratch:
My '93 230 doesn't have it.
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Labboss,
If your good with resin, glass, and putty, fill in the "notch", then fair it in to match the hull shape, gel, DA, buff, and viola, no more problem!
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Bob, I saw a Aquasport Cat going down the freeway today with a CUDDY!!
Looked like a 23+ ft boat. Was that in your era?
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Rick,
Here is a perfect example of the 23 Tournament Cat. And a damn fine example, if I do say so.
23 Tournament Cat (http://www.boattrader.com/listing/2001-AQUASPORT-Tournament-Cat-230-92023381)
I wish you could have gotten a pic of that cuddy. Did the hull form look like this one? It's possible someone did a conversion, as we never built any. How did the overall boat look? If it was in the Sarasota area, maybe you'll see it again. I'd love to see that boat!
Two things about this particular boat. One, who was the moron who installed the transom grab rail (probably my buddy Tim!)? Two, see those locking rod boxes in the port and starboard inwales? They were a BITCH to install!
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It didn't look like a conversion - must be newer than your time there. Looked sharp - maybe a 250 or bigger. Looked like an Explorer sitting on a CAT hull. I saw it going south on 75 so who knows where it is based. The Aquasport site is gone now so no one to ask there. They were very friendly and answered what they could - gave me all the info on the 230 I have. I found out she is totally stock, to include the factory Yamaha 250.
Yeah, on that link you posted, what was the grab rail there for? Maybe they have a dive ladder that hooks in below it??
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Rick,
That metallic thingie just below the grab rail was for an Armstrong dive ladder. At least the deck riggers could have centered it! Anyway, newer than my time? I built 24 cats, the last (forest green hull) sat in the yard 'til I left there in '00. Worked until 2 on a Saturday afternoon to get it green tagged. Then she sat for 6 months.
If you are really curious about that cuddy, call Proline and ask for Curt Jarson. Used to be VP of AS sales when I was there. Actually, I think it is older, rather than newer.
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This boat still looked brand new - is there a chance they designed a cuddy model after you left? Had the newer Aquasport "hook" badge on the side.
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Rick,
If Curt is in the plant tomorrow, I'll ask him. It is possible, although I keep my ear pretty close to the ground, and never heard anything about one.
The history behind the 23, and her little sister, the 16, was that Mike Scruggs, former president of Wellcraft, was over on the east coast, somewhere around the Titusville/Cocoa area and found the hull and deck molds for both in some boneyard. Liked what he saw, bought them, and thus the AS 23 and 16 Tournaments Cats were born. Don't know whose molds they were, but they were not a development of the AS/Marine Concepts designers. That being said, if that boat appeared to be about a 25, they might have taken the 23 hull and made a new mold by cutting her in 2, probably midships, then adding 2 feet. Easily done. Then, I would imagine, they took the 250 Explorer deck and adapted it to fit the shear of the cat hull. Commonly done in the business.
Later on I'll do some googling and see if I can find an example of the cuddy. You have definitely peaked my curiosity!
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The "hook" badge is probably a good lead as to when it was built?
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Rick,
See your graphics on your Explorer? Those we're used up until 99-00. The "Hook" was obviously and earlier graphic, but that doesn't mean anything. The owner might just have liked that graphic.
Curt wasn't in the plant today, off doing "marketing" things. But I got to thinking. There was absolutely no room belowdeck going forward, so the cabin portion would have had to be fairly highly perched above the hull to make it truly useful. Just a thought. I'll let you know as soon as I find out something.
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I actually never saw a "hook" badge until I went to the Aquasport website and there is was on one of their pages so I have no clue what year it was used. I just know that this boat had one.
Here is a question that has been bugging me for a while and you can probably answer: My 230 has 13ft of cockpit space from helm bulkhead to where the cockpit ends - this is where the splashwell would normally start on "welled" boats. Just before the doors in the aft beside the engine in this pic. I never put a tape on mine, just assumed it to be 23ft bow to stern.
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e19/rkins/Chillinspace.jpg)
On the Aquasport boats, when they started closing in the transom, the 250's look like they have about the same room in the back as mine, but have a 250 length. How is the boat "officially" measured? Includes the swim platform? (which I don't have but is "really" interior usable space in mine)
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Rick,
Talked to Curt Jarson today. Actually we go back about 14 years. He left AS in July '04, and there was no cuddy version of the 23 made. He suggested Aquacat (never heard of them), a conversion that someone REILLY took pride in, or someone with a different maker boat wanting it to look like an AS Cat Cuddy. Hey, you'll probably never know.
Now your 230, the splashwell would be about the same as the mid/late '90s model 215 Explorer/215 DC (later, the 215 Osprey Sport). About 45 degrees forward from each corner of the transom, then creating a short wall connecting the 2 in front of the motor. Built into the deck mold. The cockpit drains, which drained into the splashwell, were an absolute BITCH to hose! I never had to do it, but I saw what the design was, and I said, "Better you than me!". The spashwell, while keeping water out of the cockpit was a better design, did infringe on cockpit room somewhat.
Remember about LOA. Anything that is molded into the hull or deck must count towards LOA. Hence, a molded pulpit counts, a bolted on one doesn't. Same with an engine bracket. Myself, I'll take bolted on anytime. That way, when your boat is advertised as a 25 footer, it IS a 25 footer.
Looking at the pic you posted, you have one thing that GENMAR got rid of that I wish they didn't. A fuel tank hatch. Proline got rid of them too. Stupid!
Anything else?
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Ok, so that explains why these newer boats that have the integrated dive platform/engine brackets seem shorter than their length advertises - the LOA includes the bracket and the inside of the cockpit is about 2 ft shorter than it should be/would be if it had a bolt-on bracket or open transom like mine.
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Absolutely, my friend.
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Rick,
That pic of your cockpit, the water below it looks exactly like Sarasota Bay getting toward dusk. Are you on the bay? Maybe at the south end?
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Was taken at Turtle Beach ramp in the AM.
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Rick,
Now that I look at the light, it is a morning light. I'm a north end guy, Bird Key north, lived on Manatee Ave W, couple miles east of Palma Sola. Used to wade Palma Sola, the Ringling flats, Manatee River. Usually launched out of Kingfish ramp on thr west side of the ICW on Manatee, or would go with my buddies either out of 10th st or City Island. The bay was always tremendous for all species, but I tell you what, the Manatee river was excellent as well.
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Bob,
You mentioned something about the fish box pumpout.Is there a way to get the fishbox on a 225 osprey to pump all the way out?
Thanks,
Pete :D
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Pete,
First and foremost, she's a beaut. Didn't build your girl, but built 100s just like her. Hope that Yamaha is a 250, as 225 was a little light. Tournament Master package, I see, which was a tremendous deal.
Alright, on to your fishbox. You'll see that it drains through a screened fitting on the aft wall of the fishbox, about 1" above the bottom of the box. Therefore, you'll always have some water/crap in there. The pump used to drain it is a piece of s*** Johnson livewell pump, I think 500GPH. So you have too choices. First, get rid if that pump and glass over the drain hole, then redrill for a hole in the bottom of the drain well, install an 1 1/2" t/hull drain, plumbed to a macerator pump mounted in the starboard bilge which pumps out overboard on the starboard side. Easily done, and you have the ability to pump out fish guts and the like without fear of jamming up the pump.
This was about the only thing that I thought should have been improved on the 225/250 Ospreys. BTW, that little notch on the starboard side of your splashwell, that was for clearance for the steering cylinder when twin 150s were hung. Now that was a quick boat! Any other questions you have, feel free to ask.
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Thanks Bob thats a great idea.I agree with you,that is the only flaw in the boats design.What do you think of using the thru hull for the existing pump on the port side and mounting the pump next to the washdown pump?Also do you know what they did with all of the aquasport surplus parts?I'm sure some of the other guys would like to know too.
Thanks,
Pete :D
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Pete,
Yes, using that T/Hull is the obvious choice, but the Johnson had a 3/4" discharge, whereas a macerator pump has a 1" discharge hose. Should be able to change the t/hull as I believe it dumps out on the starboard side, and you can get at it through the access door below the tackle center. You can always pull the whole assembly out, makes starboard side bilge access a walk in the park. Plenty of room to mount a macerator pump on a stringer down there.
As far as Aquasport surplus parts, a lot of people don't realize that Aquasports and Wellcrafts were built on the same lines, by the same people, using the same hardware. Any hardware would have been sold to, and available at Marine Surplus (http://www.marinesurplusinc.com/servlet/Page?template=about). The one on 15th. Give them a call, they'll know. Will probably charge you way more than they paid for it, though.
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Jumping in on your conversation re the fish box dilemma. I have a 2000 215 Osprey Sport with the same problem but much more pronounced on the starboard fishbox. To do the fix that you were suggesting ie replace the Johnson pump with a macerator pump, presents a problem as far as obtaining access to the pump.
Any suggestions... I'm not as flexible today as i was yesterday.
Enjoying your other suggestions.
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Ed,
Get back with you tomorrow.
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Ed,
Does your Starboard fishbox hold a puddle of water at the aft end because the drain fitting seems to be "too high"? You're correct about bilge access in the 215. PITA!
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When I return to the boat after a week at the office the starboard fish box sometimes is completely filled (depending on how much rainfall occurred) whereas the port fishbox will have much less water and sometimes just below the drain plug. When I engage the fishbox pump it will drain the fishbox so the drain is not blocked. The dual batteries are on the starboard side so there is a slight list to starboard but not enuf that you would notice, but maybe thats all that the rain needs to accumulate .
Another issue concerns putting a kicker motor on the 215 Osprey Sport. A local marina, not familiar with the aquasport superior design has told me that an installation of a 9.9 Merc Pro Kicker with power lift has to be done on the starboard side of the vessel because of the motor well design. This doesn't sound right to me but what do I know... I know I want the kicker on the port side to equalize the weight on the boat (I don't have trim tabs). What do you think?
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Ed,
The problem with insole fishboxes is that, although they have gutter drain channels that the hatch fits into, quite often they aren't deep enough. Thus, if you have a heavy downpour, the water flowing off the deck and into these gutters will be too much for the gutters to drain off and water will overflaow into the fishbox. A slight starboard list would obviously explain the situation you describe. Now one thing you can do to help get rid of this problem is to put a good neoprene gasket on top of the gutter drain dam to help the dam seal to the bottom of the hatch. Get some modelers clay and put some small pieces, about 3/4" tall on top of that gutter dam, then close the hatch. Open it back up and measure the height of the clay. This will tell you the gap between the dam and the hatch. If it's around a 3/8" or so we use this stuff made by Trim-Lok (http://www.trimlok.com/detail.aspx?ID=1067) that works real well for us for the same purpose. If you want some, I can get you more than enough cheap. Let me know.
Now, as far as adding a kicker, well I find it unusual that someone would say that it has to go on the starboard side because of the splashwell. Well, isn't the splashwell symmetrical? The only aspect of the splashwell that anything to do with the motor is that the rigging enters into the splashwell from the starboard side. I would definitely mount it on the port side, so as to try and balance the boat as best as possible. I would also suggest Teleflexes HO6010 Tie bar kit for kicker motors. That way you can steer from the helm.
Any other questions, feel free.
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Thanx for the advice. I'll try the clay thing in the spring as the Osprey is sealed up for a Canadian hard water season! I envy you southern boys... but at least we can play hockey... go Leafs go!
I'll keep an eye on the site for your valuable insights.
Great site for all Aquasporters(?).
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Ed,
Don't forget about the boat over the winter.
You're right about living down here. Actually, a "cold" front moved through this evening, we should see highs in the low 70s tomorrow.
But we would like to see snow...Take care.
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Hey Bob, did Aquasport/Wellcraft/Genmar follow a specific standard for wiring, i.e. a numbering system - like #14 was the neg line to the bilge pump, etc?
I think there is a marine color code posted in our Resources forum, but numbering standards from "the inside" would be a plus.
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Rick,
Sorry to take so long to get back to your post about wiring. Aquasport did not use a numbering system with respect to individual circuits. However, they did use the proper color practices for the various functions of each circuit, i.e. brown w/various stripes for pumps, blue w/various stripes for lighting, gray for nav lights, etc.
One must remember that a ground is a ground is a ground, regardless of it's termination point. Typically with Aquasports, and almost any good boat, you will have a negative, or ground, buss bar located in the bilge area that takes care of the aft located appliances. In the main accessory harness, there will be a 4GA black that runs forward and terminates to a ground buss under the helm, taking care of the ground requirements forward. Now, for instance, say you have a bad ground going to your bilge pump. Rather than trying to identify exactly which wire it is, simply cut out that wire going to the pump at a point where you won't see it, put some heat shrink on the clipped end to stave off corrosion, and run a new ground wire. The reason to do this is if you wanted to remove the offending black wire, it would be a bitch as chances are it is taped within the harness about every 12"-18" in areas that may be a major PITA to get to. It won't hurt anything to leave that wire in the harness.
I do a lot of sidework, 99% of electrical issues stem from "ground". One of the things I like to do (at the owner's expense!) is to place ground busses in various locations around the boat. Makes trouble shooting and new installs much easier.
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Bob
I just signed up to this forum and saw your thread. I have had my 2002 215DC Osprey for a year and a half. I love it. I am having my first electrical problem which is posted here as a seperate post. (respond to that if you would) I also have a starboard list which seems to be more than battery weight. The bilge under my starboard fish box had 25 gallons of water which does not drain to the main bilge. I determined that the live well was leaking behind the helm seat due to a cracked fitting that the rubber hose attaches too. However even after sucking the water out with a shop vac. it still apears to weigh an extra 100 to 150 pounds more on the starboard side (some of this could be batteries). Could there be any water trapped in the hull or what could be causing the list to starboard? Finally, How the heck can you replace the plastic fitting under the live well? I took the rod holder panel off and can barely reach under there to the fitting. Should I just cut off the hose?
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Hi, I am new to the web site. I have a 1997 225 ospray with a factory t-top. I have a ton of questions about this console & t-top setup. Is there a way I can talk to you on the phone? My main problem is that the t-top & console shake fore & aft bad. It looks like the whole floor is flexing. Looking for advise on the construction of the boat. Pm a phone # if you dont mind. Thanks Jesse Martello
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Jesse,
Be happy to help. I'll PM you my number, but once we talk, I'll probably share what we talked about on this forum. I have some ideas that others might be interested in that could be of benefit to them. BTW, after she was decked, I built your boat.
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Just to let you all know, I had a great conversation with turbor2 (Jesse) tonight about his 225 Osprey. It brings a smile to my face that one of my girls is out there providing a lot of enjoyment and fun for their current owners. Hopefully the "minor" fixes we discussed will take care of the issues he has with her. I'm pretty sure they will.
That being said, I want to thank Rick and all who contribute here on Classic AS for making this a boating website that I truly enjoy coming to.
I am at your service. Seabob (Bob C)
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Hi Bob, I am trying to gain access to the aft part of the console under the deck. Do you think I can cut in a 8x10 floor hatch inside the console? My fear is that I may weaken the entire deck. By the way you were correct when you said that someone waked on the deck before the poly. could dry. Apon further inspection the poly is only touching in about 20% off the areas that it should be. Once I get access to the aft part of the console she will be strong as an ox. Thanks again for all the help. Jesse P.S I will try to load some pics on here.
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Jesse,
You'll be fine cutting an access hatch inside the console. That area is over the fuel tank, so there is no bonding surface in that area. As far as posting pics, you can always upload to Photobucket then post a link in your reply here. That's what I do. Or ask RickK. He knows how to do it and he'll walk you through the process.
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Just to let the newer members know:
Hey Guys (and Girls),
I'm an ex employee from 94-00 who just kinda had my Aquasport/Wellcraft heritage rekindled through THT. My main boats were the 225/245 (250) Ospreys, as well as the 215 DC, and the 225/245 (250) Explorers. Built the only 8 fold down dual station OEM 245/250 Ospreys. Even did a few 275 Explorers, one of the ugliest boats I've ever had the pleasure building! All electrical, plumbing, and motors, as well as t-tops and building the cockpits.
I have an extremely intimate knowledge of these boats, along with their Wellcraft brethren of the same vintage. If anybody has any questions regarding their craft, feel free to ask. I hope I can be of some help.
I'm at Pro-Line now, so thanks for having me. And if anyone has a 23 Tournament Cat out there, I built them all!
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Is this where you got your Username? http://seabob.com/en/index.html
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Rick,
You have way too much time on your hands!! LOL, no, it comes from the wife. She says that if someone has a question/problem with their boat, they should "see Bob for" the answer. Get it? She's so clever! The spelling of "sea" keeps the marine theme going.
Anyway, was out on Crystal River yesterday and today doing boat tests. There is a mid 90s 225 Osprey on a lift (no T-top) that I know I had to have built it. Also a mid-nineties Wellcraft 218 CCF (before it became the 220) just up the river from it. Both have been repowered with Yamaha 4-strokes. Someday I'd love to stop in and tell them I built their boats! :D
Take care, my friend.
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Thanks for the info
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Hey Guys (and Girls),
I'm an ex employee from 94-00 who just kinda had my Aquasport/Wellcraft heritage rekindled through THT. My main boats were the 225/245 (250) Ospreys, as well as the 215 DC, and the 225/245 (250) Explorers. Built the only 8 fold down dual station OEM 245/250 Ospreys. Even did a few 275 Explorers, one of the ugliest boats I've ever had the pleasure building! All electrical, plumbing, and motors, as well as t-tops and building the cockpits.
I have an extremely intimate knowledge of these boats, along with their Wellcraft brethren of the same vintage. If anybody has any questions regarding their craft, feel free to ask. I hope I can be of some help.
I'm at Pro-Line now, so thanks for having me. And if anyone has a 23 Tournament Cat out there, I built them all!
I know I'm going way back on the post but my father is in the market for a Pro Line is there any advice you could give me (what to stay away from or what to look for) thanks for any help
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Hello Seabob4,
I am a new member and have an opportunity to buy a 1997 245 Osprey with a very very soft deck from front to back side to side. The console moves about 6" with a light tug . When I saw your post while searching the internet I could not pass up asking a guru like yourself. What a great opportunity to get some good solid facts. How do you attack this problem? Can you spit the deck and hull and do it from the bottom? Or is this a huge waste of time? Lets start with that.. Thank you in advance.....
Oh...
I was in lower Jersey last week looking at a 225 Osprey and the guy had the a similar warranty job done but they cut the deck and now it is delaminating and cracking everywhere, what a mess. Yea he forgot to mention that in 4 different phone calls when I asked how the deck was..nice guy. It was on ebay a few weeks ago. If any one wants to buy this boat, drop me a line I have a story for ya that you could not make up....
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Welcome aboard Duke :!: :!:
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Rick,
You have way too much time on your hands!! LOL, no, it comes from the wife. She says that if someone has a question/problem with their boat, they should "see Bob for" the answer. Get it? She's so clever! The spelling of "sea" keeps the marine theme going.
Anyway, was out on Crystal River yesterday and today doing boat tests. There is a mid 90s 225 Osprey on a lift (no T-top) that I know I had to have built it. Also a mid-nineties Wellcraft 218 CCF (before it became the 220) just up the river from it. Both have been repowered with Yamaha 4-strokes. Someday I'd love to stop in and tell them I built their boats! :D
Take care, my friend.
Did you build my 1995 225 CC?
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Thank you Rick. I hope that any one that has info about this problem would give there two cents.
thanks
Rob
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Seabob4,
What is your opinion on this boat? I know it was built way before you worked for Aquasport but do you have any insight? I've been looking at it online but have not contacted the owner yet because of the price. Other than the price though... what are your thoughts? Thanks!
http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/boa/1115288336.html (http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/boa/1115288336.html)
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That's a nice-looking 246CCP! Look closely at the helm seats - see how they are slightly tilted toward each other? That is often a sign of a soft gas tank hatch/cover. Not a big deal to fix, but you can probably count on replacing the tank as well if it is original.
Soft decks toward the bow, tank corrosion, and tank harch/cover are the main things to look for in a 70s or 80s CCP.
Wire corrosion can also be a problem, so look on the back side of the instument panel and see how the wiring looks. The instrument panel has been modified a good bit - switches moved and wiring changed. Look under the console at how the wiring was handled. It also looks like the batteries have been moved - under the console?
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That boat is strangely familiar to me; rebuilt by someone on this forum maybe? :scratch:
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That's a big fishing machine :thumleft: Pricey though.
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That's a nice-looking 246CCP! Look closely at the helm seats - see how they are slightly tilted toward each other? That is often a sign of a soft gas tank hatch/cover. Not a big deal to fix, but you can probably count on replacing the tank as well if it is original.
Soft decks toward the bow, tank corrosion, and tank harch/cover are the main things to look for in a 70s or 80s CCP.
Wire corrosion can also be a problem, so look on the back side of the instument panel and see how the wiring looks. The instrument panel has been modified a good bit - switches moved and wiring changed. Look under the console at how the wiring was handled. It also looks like the batteries have been moved - under the console?
Thanks for the info. According to the ad the tank and wiring were replaced in 1998. I think it is a awesome looking boat, ahead of it's time. I don't know the owner and I am not going to buy it. I just love older boats (I had a 1966 Chris Craft Roamer that I restored back in 1992) and I think this is a great example of someone else who shares the passion. Just curious about it's structural durability at this age. :salut:
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66 Roamer? Steel or Aluminum? Steel I would guess. I had a 63 Constellation - 13,000 lbs of mahogony - beautiful boat, but a little maintenance-intensive... Those old Chris boats were great examples of workmanship, and rode the water like no other before or since.
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66 Roamer? Steel or Aluminum? Steel I would guess. I had a 63 Constellation - 13,000 lbs of mahogony - beautiful boat, but a little maintenance-intensive... Those old Chris boats were great examples of workmanship, and rode the water like no other before or since.
Yep, steel hull. I think she was around 15,000lbs. It's still cruising the Great Lakes, I think Erie.
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had a question about a 1997 245 osprey, the live well on the back , does it have a recirculating pump or does it just have the fill end empty switch?. havent had this boat in the water yet and wasnt sure. Also the fuel guage is showing full when empty any ideas where to start.? Everything else seems to be in working order. Are there any issues with this model boat that i should be aware of? thanks kevin
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Also the fuel guage is showing full when empty any ideas where to start.?
Assuming you're talking about the electric gauge, does it show full when you turn on the ignition switch? Does it move at all?
Sounds like a faulty sender in the tank.
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yea I was talking about the electric fuel guage
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yea I was talking about the electric fuel guage
Well it sounds like the sender in the tank is shot.
The combination of humidity and fuel vapor play hell with the unit.
Remove and replace.
Make good connections at the tank and gauge and you should be good to go.
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Bob,
Quick questions - If I ever need to replace the fuel tank on my 1999 245 Explorer can I just cut the deck along the lines between the seats? I figure this outline looks like exactly where the tank is located.
Also has anyone that you know of ever put a kicker on a 245 explorer or a 24' hull and if so what size engine did they use. I am trying to figure out what size engine I would need for small depth creeks and ditches. We do a lot of crabing with the kids in the New Jersey marshes.
Thanks again for your input.
Judd
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Bob,
Quick questions - If I ever need to replace the fuel tank on my 1999 245 Explorer can I just cut the deck along the lines between the seats? I figure this outline looks like exactly where the tank is located.
Thanks again for your input.
Judd
That's where it resides on the older model Explorers. Hopefully Seabob can confirm. I thought I read a post he made recently about tanks, with the smaller boats using a tank that wasn't aluminum. Maybe it was this thread.
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I've seen kickers on 24 footers from 6 to 15 HP. 8 seems pretty popular...
Hope this helps - see ya on the water!
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My Explorer has a tank hatch between the seats, about 140 gals long - no cutting, just unscrew and open (sounds easy anyway :roll: )
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Seabob hope you can help me out. I have a 245 1999 Explorer and in the transome where the batteries are mounted the platform that they are mounted on seems to be sagging a little and I was wondering what that platform is made out of.
Thanks,
Judd Hogan
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I cut mine out last year to do some other repairs. It was 1/2 inch plywood with a layer of fiberglass over it. Mine was in good shape so I reglassed it in.
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Thanks for the info. I wasn't sure if the weight on the batteries was to much. Nice to know the plywood had fiberglass around it.
thanks
Judd
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Seabob,
I realize you didnt work there in 2002, but are there ant issues you know of that i should be concerned with with my 2002 200 osprey. I bought the boat used and noticed someone re-sealed the fish box pump out fitting.
Thanks
Bob
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Bob,
By "re-sealing" the pump-out fitting, do you mean that "someone" simply applied a new bead of caulk around the fitting? It may have just been a simple leak that the new bead fixed.
The 200 Osprey has been around a long time, pretty much all the bugs were worked out of her by the time I got there in '94. But leaks do develop over time, so that may explain the additional sealant. The boat is excellent with a 150, which I assume is what you have, she'd be really nice re-powered with a Suzuki 175 4S.
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Seabob,
No they didnt just put a new bead a caulk, its more like globs of caulk all around the fitting. I should probably remove all that caulking and do a better job. Other than that the boat is beautiful. It looks new! It doesnt appear to be holding any water under the deck and the main bilge is always bone dry. I have a 115 Yamaha which a appears to be plenty of power and it runs amazing. This is my first Aquasport. Ive owned Parker, Chriscraft, Boston Whaler etc. and this boat rides as good as any of them.
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Seabob,
I have one of those boats you may have built! I have a '97 21.5 DC. I absolutely love the boat. I've had it for about 8 years now and it has been a great boat. I've had a 200HP Johnson on it since I bought it. The motor had some "mechanic induced problems" (long story)and I decided to repower with a Yamaha F225. I'm going to be mounting the motor in the next few days and was wondering if you had any advice on where to mount motor. Should I just use the same holes I used on the Johnson? Let me know your thoughts. I may have some more questions if I get in a pickle with the install!
PS - I have a vacation house Weeki Wachee so I'm just down the road from you (at least on the weekends!)
Thanks for all your input! I've already learned a lot from your responses...
MikeR
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Mike,
Use the same holes as the bolt pattern on those motors is a standard BIA mounting pattern. I would start with the same height, i.e. 2nd hole down, third hole down, whatever. The key is to get the cav plate about level with the keel when the motor is at neutral trim. Make sure your new Yammi is the same shaft length as the Johnson (should be a 25" shaft). The additional 25 horse should make her a better performer, although some of that could be offset by the heavier 4S. Check your prop size as well. Gear ratio can have a lot to do with prop selection, assuming the Yammi and Johnson can spin the same diameter props.
I loved the 215 DC. Nice angular lines, plenty of room in the cockpit, the availability of a freshwater sink forward of the passenger seat, just a great boat all-around. Where are you based at?
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I live in Apopka but try to get over to Weeki Wachee as often as I can. Thanks for the advise. Nice to get confirmation on where to mount it...
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Mike,
Lived in O-town for 14 years, had my house built in Ocoee, just west of Apopka-Vineland off of A.D. Mims Rd. Inlaws (former) were all Eustis/Tavares/Leesburg/Umatilla residents. And many a Zellwood corn festival was attended!
Just keep in mind the guidelines I spoke of. Any competant dealer can get your Yammi set up right. Any other questions, feel free.
Bob
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That's funny... I grew up in Eustis!
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Mike,
King's Taste BBQ? Remember, or is it still there?
Bob
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Of course! Love Kings!
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Seabob,
Was told that you may be able to provide some insight to the 175, although it wasn't one of the boats you built. I'm planning to shop for a 170 or 175 this fall - they each seem to have some of their own merits so I'm trying to decide between the two (you may have seen my recent post). As far as the 175 made during your time at Aquasport, does it have any wood? If so where? Do you know of any things to watch out for on these?
I used to have a '97 215 Explorer; I'm sure you are more familiar wtih that boat. I thought it was a great boat with good quality, so a 175 of that vintage seems like a good choice.
Thanks for being such a great resource to everyone!
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Wespants,
Thank you for the compliment. About the only site I frequent these days is this one, as THT, reelboating, CW, they all seem to be about well off people wanting something for free, when the rest of us are struggling in today's economy, especially those of us in the boat building business.
Anyway, that being said, the cockpit sole and the gunnels were cored with end-grain balsa. On the rare occasion when Wellcraft/Aquasport couldn't get the balsa in time to lay up the deck, the coring was pressure treated marine ply. Equally as good but much heavier (Duh!). The hull, however, had no wood in it. Foam filled glass stringers and a poured-foam transom. The 175 is an excellent little boat, great performer with even a 90 on her although the optimal motor is a 130-135. A 150 really makes her a screamer, but is kind of overkill.
The 170 was before my time, so I can't really comment on her. However, at that time, it was VERY common for Genmar to simply rebadge a boat with different decals and, viola, a brand new model. But I would have to believe that, other than a few cosmetic changes, the 170 and 175 are basically the same boat.
Hope I have been of assistance. Now today is my birthday, and it's time for me to hop on the tractor and go out and mow the lawn. Happy birthday to me!
Bob
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Well HAPPY BIRTHDAY BOB!!!!!
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Happy B-day Bob. :drunken:
Be careful on that tractor. Hopefully you're back to work now.
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The tractor event was a non-event, just something one has to do. Actually, we've stepped down from 5-6 acres to 1 1/2, so it's a much easier road to hoe.
Anyway, on a good front, we have started back at Proline with a crew of 24. 7 of us started this past week, and I had a wonderful Tuesday, 4PM to 5AM Wednesday morn, glassing stringers into a 29 Donzi police boat. That was a lot of fun! Then in at noon the next day to finish up. And I'm an electrician! But you do what they ask you to, given the economic situations we face today.
So, yes, I'm back at work, and thankful of it. And I love you guys, and the boats you own.
Bob C
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Thanks Seabob for the response. I'm starting to lean towards a Genmar-built boat because I like the way they raised the transom on the sides and added the storage on either side. I also like the no-wood hull and transom. I like the idea of a 70s or 80s hull restoration, but I don't know if I have the time or skill for such an undertaking. The 175 would get me in the water a lot quicker and easier - that's for sure. Thanks again.
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Bob
The 200 Osprey has been around a long time, pretty much all the bugs were worked out of her by the time I got there in '94. But leaks do develop over time, so that may explain the additional sealant. The boat is excellent with a 150, which I assume is what you have, she'd be really nice re-powered with a Suzuki 175 4S.
Bob I have a 1997 200 Osprey powered by a 150 Evinrude. I just bought a used Suzuki 175 4S and plan to repower with it .I have the batteries in the console but also have a hydraulic jackplate. Should I remove the plate to reduce the weight gain on the transom . I am afraid the scuppers will be submerged with 485+ lbs at the stern. what do you think?
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John,
The '97 Ocean Pro/Oceanrunner came in at right about 385 lbs., 100 less than the Suzi. Try this. Lay a short length of 2 X 6 across your jack plate mounting brackets, then place 100 lbs. on that board and see where the scupper thru hulls end up, waterline wise. Hopefully you'll find the extra 100 lbs. won't make much of a difference.
Many folks have repowered with the 200 of the same make, and that motor weighed the same as your Suzi 175 4S. Let us know the results of the "test".
Bob
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Seabob,
I have a 1997 245 osprey. I just came in from offshore and i had a problem with water accumelating in the front hatch where my fresh water tank is located. The water was filled to the top of the hatch. Where does this drain out to? Does it flow into the bilge or the out through a scupper. Is there a hose that may be clogged?
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GMC,
There is obviously a BIG problem here as the "Haitian Hatch", as we used to call that area, is a large space, and should be dry at all times, barring a leak from your fresh water tank. Have you done some poking around to see where the water may be coming from?
Do this. On the aft wall inside your port and starboard tubs forward, you'll see access plates. Remove these and inspect your drain hoses. I would bet that one of them has ruptured, allowing water to flow back into the Haitian Hatch compartment.
BTW, the reason we called it the Haitian Hatch was because, as big as it is, one could easily smuggle 7 Haitians into the US in it!
Let me know the outcome. BTW, once your boat was decked, I built the rest of it.
Bob C
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I have checked these and they are clear and still attached. WHy will the water not drain out of there? I am using a sypon to get all the water out b/c its still in there.
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OK, that's good about the hoses.
There should be a drain hole in the floor aft under the water tank.
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and does this drain to the aft bilge? It must be clogged. I will put a snake through it. Is liquid drano ok?
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Yes, that compartment does drain aft to the bilge. Question. Has this problem recently reared it's ugly head, or has this been ongoing since you've owned the boat? BTW, Drano should work fine, if the clog is of degradable nature. If the clog is a piece of foam or some other non-degradable material, it won't have an effect. A snake would be the better alternative.
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No this just started happening. I have owned the boat for three years last saturday. I have just replace all bilge pumps and floats.
So you built the boat, that is awsome. I love the boat but I have had my fair share of problems. I had to get a new t-top because it ripped through the floor. It cracked two main beams in the middle of the supports. The floors are soft and had to replace parts of them. I now have a crack forward in the hull and it is getting bigger. I guess thats a boat though.
Thanks for all your help. I am sure this wont be my last question
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GMC,
I assume the T-Top "ripped" the floor out at the front legs. I installed it with thru bolts and 1/4" fender washers, although AS at the time didn't seem to think backing plates were necessary, hence the lack of them. Where exactly is your cockpit sole soft? If you'll notice, my sig pic is the TM version of your boat. What power does she have?
Bob
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I also have the TM version but I have one 250hp etech.
THe plate the legs were welded to snapped and pulled the screws out of the floor. THen the second legs also snapped and pulled the leg out of the floor, on the same trip. The t-top started to pull back and split the console in half. The repair man told me the the floor was not strong enough and needed to have it reglassed before he could rebolt it. Then after that was repaired, the main beam in the front window area snapped in half. The repair shop told me he could fix it but the design was bad and that it should be redesigned with a soft top and have 4 legs on the deck.
It seems that the floor is soft around where the legs where mounted and also in the cockpit where the leaning post is mounted.
I tried to upload picture of my boat but cant figure it out.
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hi bob i m bob138 new to aquasport i have problem with new boat 25 explorer 2000 was on boat yesterday and had gas in my front bilge is there a way to cut tank out with out destroying deck
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GM,
Quick question, as your boat is really bothering me. What type of leaning post do you have? Is it the flip down, where raised it is a leaning post and lowered it is a seat? If not, that wasn't my boat.
It sounds as if no sealant was used when the T-top/leaning post were installed.
Bob
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The leaning post does flip down to become a seat.
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Can you post a pic of the caulking seal around the leaning post bases?
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Seabob,
I'm planning on purchasing a late model 215 ie: 1997 thru 2003...mostly what I can afford. My question is can you install a bow pulpit on this model? And if so can you recommend any kits? I had a 224 Chapararral with one and it was very helpfull for single handed anchoring. Thanks in advance.
Ray
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Ray,
Have you given thought to installing a fairlead instead of an entire pulpit? Gets the anchor out there at minimal muss and fuss. Take a look at this site, we use their rollers and fairleads. http://www.kingstonanchors.com/
Bob C
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Whats a fairlead Bob? I don't see any on their site.
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Rick,
The more common term is "Anchor Roller". Check the description out on this one from Boaters Word:
http://www.boatersworld.com/product/157420191.htm?utm_medium=productsearch&utm_source=google
I just kind of like to use the "correct" nautitical terms like "bollard", "Sampson Post", "Athrwartships", you know? Keeps me up on those old drunken sailor names they made up for all this crap!
Bob C
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Seabob,
Sorry I have not got around to taken the pictures of the caulking seal. The boat is 1.5 hrs away and I only get down on weekends to work on it. I tried snaking the drain with no luck. Is it a pipe or hose that runs from the forward hatch to the back of the boat? It must run directly under the gas tank b/c I cant see it from any of the inspection hatches.
ANy other advice?
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Hi Bob and Aquasport Friends,
I finally got around to getting set up on this site. Have been meaning to do this for awhile, but have been on the road conducting business trips...a lot!
I am the proud owner of a 1995 245 Osprey (Pictures coming) with twin 225 Ocean Runners. I look forward to sharing experiences and getting assistance and information.
She is a good girl, but getting a little soft in places on the deck. I purchased her in July 2003.
Thanks and have a great day! --- Mark (AKA: Pelican1)
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Welcome aboard Mark :!: :!:
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I am the proud owner of a 1995 245 Osprey (Pictures coming) with twin 225 Ocean Runners.
DAMN! Twin 225s? She absolutely has to haul ass! The most motor we installed on a 245 (later became the 250 Osprey) was twin 150s. Would love to see her!
BTW, your deck is cored with end-grain balsa. Do some searches on MarineTex and, of course, GitRot. I've heard good things about MarineTex.
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Seabob,
Thanks for the info on my fuel tank size the other day. Reading more I see you probably built my boat? In this thread you mentioned fish box pmp out problems. The 97' 245 I just purchased has a fishbox full of water, not my biggest concern at the moment, there is much to do to get her on the water. The Johnson 225 has low compression (-30 psi) on all but 1 cylinder. I am putting my 96 Yamaha 225 2 stroke on the AS, so pulling the wiring and rigging from the OMC to the Yamaha will take a few weekends. So what is a good way to rig the fishbox pump out? The previous owner has what appears to be a 2 x 10 jammed down in the fishbox, said it kept the pump out screen from getting clogged? Also, what do you think my cruise and WOT speeds should be with the Yamaha 225 propped correctly? Probably many more questions as I dig into the bowels of this vessel, this is a great forum, and thank you for sharing your knowledge. BTW, I spoke with a man from GENMAR before I knew about this site, trying to get some knowledge, he basically told me most of the "tribal knowledge" disappeared when they closed and moved from Sarasota... but we have you now?? Thanks
Marc
Hey Guys (and Girls),
I'm an ex employee from 94-00 who just kinda had my Aquasport/Wellcraft heritage rekindled through THT. My main boats were the 225/245 (250) Ospreys, as well as the 215 DC, and the 225/245 (250) Explorers. Built the only 8 fold down dual station OEM 245/250 Ospreys. Even did a few 275 Explorers, one of the ugliest boats I've ever had the pleasure building! All electrical, plumbing, and motors, as well as t-tops and building the cockpits.
I have an extremely intimate knowledge of these boats, along with their Wellcraft brethren of the same vintage. If anybody has any questions regarding their craft, feel free to ask. I hope I can be of some help.
I'm at Pro-Line now, so thanks for having me. And if anyone has a 23 Tournament Cat out there, I built them all!
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fp225,
Early, full day ahead of me tomorrow. Get back with you tomorrow eve.
Bob C
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Hi Bob ,i was wondering if you were involved with any of the 29' aquasports .I have a 1982 and like it alot good solid boat.
repowered it in 2001 with new mpi crusader engines and hurth down angle trans. Why did they stop making these boats they are a large 29' boat, thanks jeff
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In 1982, I had just started working for Lockheed-Martin, 21 years old, and not quite into the boating business yet. Perhaps some others? :D
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Wow am I glad I found this forum and this thread! Talk about a gold mine of information! :D
seabob- I just bought my first boat, and it's a 1997 Aquasport 225 center console, with a 200HP Johnson OceanPro. So far, I've been very satisfied. It had a few minor repairs (mostly cosmetic) to do, and it's performed great on the water. I plan to use it for diving, fishing, and cruising.
I do have a few questions for someone with your expertise (and it sounds like you might have built my boat!!)
1. I don't see much info online about the 225... is it a rare model? I suppose it's an "Osprey" model, but nothing on the boat or on my title says "Osprey." Just 225.
2. What's the difference in Aquasports and Wellcrafts? I understand they were both Genmar brands. I've noticed that with many AS models (mine especially), they look almost identical to Wellcrafts.
3. How in the WORLD did you fasten the T-top supports to the deck? I had to replace the 3 bolts securing the starboard support, as it was loose when I bought it, and you should see the bruises on my arm! I either need longer arms, or I need to be a midget so I can crawl into the "Haitian hatch" :wink:
4. My bow nav light on the port side (red) is out. Green works fine. Bulb is good. What's the most likely culprit?
5. Any suggestions where I might find an owners manual?
Here are a couple pics of the new vessel. The trailer is in the process of being upgraded (discovered I'm over the GVWR of it!)
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z320/MikeVAg33/NewBoatExplorer-PB.jpg)
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z320/MikeVAg33/AS225-pb.jpg)
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Glock Diver,
And does that mean you do some spear fishing with a GLOCK? Just kidding! Beautiful boat, kind of like her without the graphics. No, she is not a rare boat, built a ton of them. 200 was standard power, 225 and twin 150s optional. I really liked her with 150s, got 55 MPH out of her!
We built your boat and Wellcraft CCs on the same line, and there was a lot of crossover hardware used. However, the AS was pure composite, whereas Wellcraft's still had wooden stringers at that time. The AS transom is rock solid, BTW. Hollow transom filled with 2-part "pour foam" that cured to the consistency of concrete! :D
As far as your T-Top legs are concerned, well, I have long arms, and it was a stretch. Remove the hatch, and it is a bit easier to access. However, looking more closely at the top, well, it may be an aftermarket top. When a 225 didn't get a top out of the factory, she got a grab rail around the windscreen, which I see you have. However, we did use gold anodized rocket launchers, so she may have been a "stock" boat that we later added a T-Top too. Not sure.
Check the voltage on the port nav light. Being 12 years old, chances are some corrosion has built up to the point where the light is not receiving the juice it needs. While you have your head in the anchor locker, do the same on the starboard side. They are both the same age, you know.
As far as an owner's manual, you can see if one has been archived on Classic AS, but it really won't do much good, as they were fairly generic, and IMO, not very useful. It's best to stick your head in places it doesn't belong and see how things are run, routed, and rigged. Any questions, feel free to ask.
BTW, I figured I'd reply in the general forum so all could see the answers to your questions. She's a beaut! Congrats!!!
Bob C
P.S. Damn, didn't notice, looks like she has the forward bow cushions also...
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Hey Bob,
Thanks for the reply! haha, I often get that question about my "Glock Diver" handle. (same one I use on TheHullTruth, ScubaBoard, etc.)... The name just represents 2 of my strong, albeit seperate, interests. Fear not, anyone who might go diving with me... I'm not packing heat when I go diving! :roll:
Great to know about the strength of my transom. I guess that's why Aquasports are heavier than many comparable sized boats? The NADA guide lists mine at 3900 lbs. I'm guessing that's without motor. Many other 22' center consoles of the same era are closer to 2200-3000 lbs. I hope it's because AS is a sturdier craft.
Not sure if the T-top was aftermarket or not, but fortunately it was the starboard support that needed new bolts. I did remove that Haitian hatch and was barely able to reach to the bolts with a wrench, but I saw no access to the port side leg. It looked to be closed in, but not sure. :scratch:
So is mine truly an "Aquasport 225" or is it an "Aquasport 225 Osprey"?
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Glock,
Your model is a 225 Osprey. Period. And my take on boat weight is that the other manufacturers weights were somewhat skewed. 1700 lbs. is a lot of weight difference between simalarly sized boats. Couple that with foam filled stringers and a composite transom? I'd say weigh a Sea Fox and weigh your boat side by side. Let's see the difference then... :?
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nice boat!Bob is right its an osprey 225,the cabin versions of the same boat were called explorers,same hull with a different top cap
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Pete,
Good to see you! Betcha Glock wishes he had the TM package like yours... :D
Bob C
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Took my "new" 225 out yesterday for some reef fishing. BEAUTIFUL day, it was flat as could be about 14 mi. into the Gulf. The first fish on the boat was an amberjack!
Realized that my Livewell is not pumping water in. :( Tried turning the Washdown/Livewell knob back and forth, and still nothing. (that knob was SUPER tight). Any ideas on the most likely culprit? :?:
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Glock,
Great to here about a good fishing trip and an Amberjack! Now get out to the artificial reefs (I assume you guys have those...) and snag some grouper!
Now your livewell. Did you determine your pump was actually operable by switching over to "washdown" and seeing if that worked? Are you sure the pickup shut-off valve was open? The livewell/washdown pump is located behind that small door just to port of the livewell. Turn it on and put your hand on the pump to feel if is running.
You can do this in your driveway. But if your shut-off valve was closed... :oops:
Bob C
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those pumps get clogged easily and are notorious for failing,try taking off the inlet hose at the bump and flushing it with a hose.I have had to do that more than a few times.the pump may be bad,or need to be rebuilt.good luck.
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I did turn the Livewell/Washdown knob back and forth, with negative results. I didn't uncap the hose spigot, but I didn't hear any water pressure either.
I also tried to listen for the pump, but couldn't hear anything. I know they're difficult to hear, so I'll try holding my hand on it.
Bob mentioned something about a shut-off valve? Where would that be, and how do I ensure it's open?
thanks! :cheers:
One more question, but unrelated to the livewell: Where can I get my ignition key copied? Or obtain another copy? The prior owner only gave me one key, and I'd like to set-up a "backup" set of boat keys, and the extra ignition key is the only one I'm missing. Lowe's and Home Depot could not find a similar key blank.
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Glock,
First, your shut-off valve. Below your livewell/washdown valve compartment is an access door. Open it, stick your head in, and look down and forward, you'll see a valve attached to the pickup on the bottom of the boat, just to the starboard of the keel. Most likely it will have a yellow handle. The handle should be straight up and down, indicating it is open. If it is perpendicular to the valve body, it is closed. Also try to run a coat hanger up through the pickup from the bottom of the boat and see if you encounter any obstructions.
Second, your ignition key. There should be a number stamped on it. OMC (and even BRP today) used about 20 different keys on all there key switches (yes, your key can start at least 1 in 20 OMC/BRP powered boats!). Let me know the number, and chances are we have one at work. If we do, I'll send it to you. Your binnacle has the key switch built in, doesn't it?
Bob C
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Glock,
First, your shut-off valve. Below your livewell/washdown valve compartment is an access door. Open it, stick your head in, and look down and forward, you'll see a valve attached to the pickup on the bottom of the boat, just to the starboard of the keel. Most likely it will have a yellow handle. The handle should be straight up and down, indicating it is open. If it is perpendicular to the valve body, it is closed. Also try to run a coat hanger up through the pickup from the bottom of the boat and see if you encounter any obstructions.
Hmmmm, you mean THIS handle? :ScrChin:
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z320/MikeVAg33/valvehandle.jpg)
<!-- s:x -->:x<!-- s:x --> Apparently, I don't know my own strength! I feel like such a douchebag!! <!-- s:shaking: -->:shaking:<!-- s:shaking: --> I did find the intake, and there was no obstruction from the outside. Looked to be half-way open. Then looking inside, the valve handle was at a 45-degree angle. I tried to move it into the full OPEN position, and it was pretty tight, but with a little bit of wiggle. Kept wiggling, and, as you can see, it came off in my hand! So its stuck in the half-open position. But I should have gotten SOME water.
Followed the plumbing to the pump, and noticed its the original diaphragm pump, manufactured 1/97. Tomorrow I'll see if its humming, and maybe put the hose to the intake and see if water is flowing.
Second, your ignition key. There should be a number stamped on it. OMC (and even BRP today) used about 20 different keys on all there key switches (yes, your key can start at least 1 in 20 OMC/BRP powered boats!). Let me know the number, and chances are we have one at work. If we do, I'll send it to you. Your binnacle has the key switch built in, doesn't it?
Here is a picture of the key... and yes the switch is part of the throttle control unit... Also known as a binnacle!
I'll PM you with my info.
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z320/MikeVAg33/BoatKey.jpg)
Thanks again Bob!
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Glock,
Well, I would guess it's time for a new shut-off valve! See what I can scrounge up.
Shut-off valves tend to "take a set" if they're not worked often, even within a year. Don't be discouraged, it's very common. You ought to try an 1 1/2" valve... :evil:
Bob C
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Well, I can't say nobody warned me about all the projects that came with owning a boat! But as a DIY guy, it gives me something to do.
Update on the portside bow navigation light- I hooked a volt meter to the wires, and it read 11.97 volts! :) So I changed the bulb (it was blackened, but the filament was intact). And the light still doesn't work, even with the new bulb... Very strange. The wires look good, the meter says it's got 12v, so I'm not sure what I'm missing here... :? I'm not very experienced with volt meters, but I know enough to read the display!
I did complete a couple other projects today- installed a new 8' Shakespeare VHF antenna (prior one was just a 3' whip), and a new DSC-enabled VHF- a Standard Horizon. I decided to do a surface mount, just to the right of the throttle control. Just 3 hours with my drill and Dremel, and we were up and running! (probably would have been 2 hours, but with this 95 degree heat, I had to take breaks). Looks pretty sharp, if I do say so myself. And also freed up some space in my E-box.
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Update on the portside bow navigation light- I hooked a volt meter to the wires, and it read 11.97 volts! :) So I changed the bulb (it was blackened, but the filament was intact). And the light still doesn't work, even with the new bulb... Very strange. The wires look good, the meter says it's got 12v, so I'm not sure what I'm missing here... :? I'm not very experienced with volt meters, but I know enough to read the display!
Did you check the voltage inside of the socket itself? Might try cleaning the inside of the socket. :scratch:
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Did you check the voltage inside of the socket itself? Might try cleaning the inside of the socket. :scratch:
I thought I had checked the voltage on the light bulb itself, but maybe I was touching the contact instead. I'll try some emory cloth in the little hole/socket that secures the bulb and see if that helps.
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I'm feeling your pain....
I took the 230 out camping this weekend and on Friday evening I was idling out at dusk and flipped the bow nav lights on and they came on as expected (I ran a new pair of wires to it not too long ago) and then a little later it was getting dark enough for the "all around" and it was still stowed, so I dropped it in the connector in the aft and all of a sudden the front nav lights went out and won't come on now :scratch: The "all around" is fine (it's an LED) and on the same switch - so either I have a bulb out or the switch went south. Maybe plugging in the LED "all around" surged/blew the incandescent bulb in the nav lights? Didn't investigate while out there even though I had a new bulb with me.
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Glock,
You have a PM. Good news! (Damn, Rick, we need a beer cheer smiley!) :drunken:
Bob C
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seabob4 is the man! :thumleft: Thanks a million!
On another topic...
Seeing Capt. Bob's AS 225 brochure in another thread reminded me of something. It reminded me that I'm missing the piston extension rod that holds the front console seat up. Currently, I have a mop handle that performs that function, but I'd love to replace the part if I knew where to find one, and exactly what it's called.
Is this something that can be purchased at a marine store? I looked for one at Bass Pro, but didn't see anything like that...
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Glock,
Your seat had two, one on each side. 40 pounders, if I remember correctly. Basically nitrogen filled struts, just like a lot of cars use for hoods and trunks..
Measure ball center to ball center (fully extended length) and let us know. See what we have at work that may suffice... :bball: Hey, it getting time for the Magic to start the season!
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You can get them at Marine Surplus in Ft Myers - they can order them for you (that's where I got mine but in their Sarasota office)
http://www.marinesurplusinc.com/servlet/StoreFront
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Rick's right. In fact, they probably came from the old Wellcraft plant! Marine Surplus is OK, but I think they are a little pricey compared to what they buy the stuff for...JMHO.
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Agreed :thumleft:
But in this case I ordered the struts through them.
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Thanks for the few leads, fellas. I was hoping to find those struts at Bass Pro Shops, where I've bought a bunch of other boat stuff. My wife works there and we both get a nice employee discount, but I can check out that Marine Surplus.
So here's a picture of where my struts were connected. I measured the distance from the bottom hole to the back of the seat (with the seat lifted to 90 degrees, like in the picture). Came out to 29 inches.
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z320/MikeVAg33/ConsoleFrontSeat.jpg)
Anybody notice my 2 LawSticks on the starboard gunwale in the background? :wink: The top one was 1999 edition... of course its no longer correct. A friend gave me the new one, but removing the original sticker has been a beast! Used some adhesive remover today unsuccessfully, but I'll try a razor blade tomorrow.
~~~~~~~~~
About that Livewell Pump problem. Today I followed some of the advice and connected the garden hose to the pump input, and tried to turn it on again. The only thing I got was wet. No livewell action. :x Tomorrow I'll connect the volt meter to it and see if its getting anything. The Livewell/Washdown knob is very corroded and difficult to turn, but I don't know that it's causing the problem. Here you can see the corrosion:
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z320/MikeVAg33/Livewell-Washdown.jpg)
The pump and where I tried to flush with water...
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z320/MikeVAg33/pump.jpg)
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Mike,
When you turn yoiur pump on, put your hand on it and feel for vibration. No vibration, pump ain't running. Your valve is like the one shown on this page of the West Marine catalog.Boswoth Diverter Valves. (http://ecatalog.westmarine.com/full.asp?page=344). It is the surface mount one.
If you take the frame off the tackle center module, you can access the back side of that valve pretty easily. Might be a good idea do disassemble it and lube it up pretty good.
Bob C
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No vibration on the pump, so I removed it and tested the wires. It's getting juice, so I'm guessing the pump is bad. Is there any repairing these things? It's a pretty heavy pump (photo above)
I also sprayed some WD-40 on the valve, hopefully that will ease it up.
Bob, let me know if Proline has any of those gas struts... I'd be happy to purchase a couple. Otherwise, I'll call that Surplus Marine supply.
Another beautiful day in SW Florida, but one spent on land due to a Small Craft Advisory. Got a new tongue jack on the trailer, and adjusted my forward bow bunks, as well as a few mini projects on the boat. It was nice just being outside! :)
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Hey Bob, I just finished reading all the posts by you, which were many, to get myself as much information from you that I can. I am so excited to have found a perso like you here with your knowledge and background. Just a quick note to the fishwell pump. I had the same problem when i got my boat a month or so ago ( I will fill you in). The pump did vibrate and all it took was to purge the pump with water by unscreing the plastic cap at the impellar and fill with water. Now it is perfect.
Anyway, my name is Steve and I live on Long Island. as of the end of august 09, I became the proud and lucky owner of a wonderful 1998 Aquasport 225 Explorer with Hard Top, salt and freshwater washdowns. I must say I love this boat! It is powered by a 1998 Evinrude Ocean Pro 200hp outboard. This engine was totally redone including powerhead in 06. The boat has 770 hrs on it with about 370 hours on the engine and it purrs like a kitten (Knock on wood). When I bought the boat (for a steal, including trailor), it needed some TLC. Basically, the saltwater problem which I explained earlier. the freshwater pump was dead but a friend of mine had a new one and gave it to me and installed it and works great! Next spring I will replace the stereo and speakers for they do not work. I need to also replace the hatch which the prior owner had cracked. Do you know where I can get a replacement hatch (top hatch on hinge, not bifold) and the hardware for it....cam locks. I also need new gas shocks for the hatch as well. do you know the size? Also, I seemed to have lost one of the vent covers to my fuel tank. I put the vent cover (Like a soda bottle cap) from the freshwater supply on the gas vent for now, but want to get another one. Do you know where I can just get another cap? I also have to replace the wiper motor...no big deal.
I love this boat, it is in unbelievable shape and once I cleaned it up, it is like brand new! I get many compliments. I have been out fishing a lot on the Long island sound and been doing great! And, i am need to come up with a good name.....
Great to meet you here and you are an unbelievable find! Steve
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Steve,
Thank you very much for the compliments. I'll see what I can do, problems and otherwise... :D
Bob C
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Last week I removed the non-working livewell pump. I tested the power to it, and its getting about 12v.
I then hooked up the pump in my garage to 12v and it came alive!! :D Connected a rubber tube to the input, and it squirted water like a fire hydrant. Noticed it was fairly noisy too, so I'm sure I've never heard it run before.
Still puzzled why it wasn't pumping water into the livewell. Maybe I knocked something loose in the pump? Or maybe there was a plumbing obstruction? Tomorrow or Thursday I'll replace it in the boat and see if it will work where it counts!
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Sounds like "Ricksyndrome"
You know, dirty connections :scratch:
Probably inside the pump or right where the wires contacted the pump.
Your bait salutes you :salut:
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Sounds like "all of have to figure this :*: out syndrome"!
Alright, Rick, when do we get the "beer cheer" smiley?
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Nice boat Glock. Remember to purge the pump with water first. We did that on miy boat by unscrewing the clear plastic cap on the pump, and poured some water into it. It then worked perfectly. You might be able to purge the pump by pouring water into the hole in the live well where the water would normally enter the well. Pour water into the hole until you feel that the pump seems to be purged then, turn on the switch. Go get some fish. Beautiful blackfish up here now. Hopefully we will get some Stripers this coming weekend.
Steve
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Seabob,
I have a '97 21.5 Dual Console that I just repowered with a '04 250 HPDI. My next upgrade will be to put a new aluminum trailer under the boat. Do you know how much this boat weighs? I think the Yamaha and the 200 Ocean Pro are pretty close to the same weight.
Also, do you know if this boat has any wood or foam in it?
Thanks - you are a great resource!
MikeR
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(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/97DCspecs0001.jpg)
Don't know if it's readable but it shows 3000lbs with a 150 mounted. You can do the gizintas from there.
This is from the 97 catalog
edit: shows up pretty good.
Definately got foam in the stringers, not sure if the transom had gone over to composite but Seabob will know. I'm guessing wood in the transom.
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Seabob,
I have a '97 21.5 Dual Console that I just repowered with a '04 250 HPDI. My next upgrade will be to put a new aluminum trailer under the boat. Do you know how much this boat weighs? I think the Yamaha and the 200 Ocean Pro are pretty close to the same weight.
Also, do you know if this boat has any wood or foam in it?
Thanks - you are a great resource!
MikeR
I'm sure seabob will chime in, but the NADA guide lists your boat at 3000 lbs net, which I believe includes the motor, and dry tanks. Take a look in the Photo Gallery here, and there are several brochures posted, and most of them have weights.
Not sure about your other questions, I'll leave that to the experts!
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Thanks guys. That is what I needed!
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More puzzled by my Livewell Pump Problem...
Today I connected my working Livewell pump back to its connection, and turned it on. Nothing. Tested the connection with the Volt meter, and it's getting 12.5 VDC.
Connected the pump directly to my batteries with some jumpers, and the pump turned on just fine!
So something in the wiring is faulty, but it's not affecting the voltage, because I still read 12v. Any ideas? :roll: I couldn't remember the voltmeter settings to test amps in the current, but I'm wondering if that could be the problem?
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Glock, Mike, Stringali,
I will chime in...eventually. Just have some stuff to do right now. Mike, beautiful boat, one of my favorites. Glock, check for blockage. Stringali, well, I'll get to you... :D
Bob C
P.S. Capt Bob, your awesome! :cheers:
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. Glock, check for blockage.
Bob C
Sorry Bob, I should've been more specific. I didn't hook up any plumbing, only electrical. The pump works when connected directly to the battery with jumpers, but did not work when connected to its normal connection. However, that normal connection is showing 12v on the meter!
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Mike,
You may have a corrosion issue there. 12V, but what kind of amps? Just a guess...
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Mike,
You may have a corrosion issue there. 12V, but what kind of amps? Just a guess...
Going to check the amps this afternoon. (I couldn't remember the settings on the multimeter to check for amperage, so I had to come home and look it up!) :scratch:
If the amps are too low, and I'm expecting that--what else could it be-- where is the most likely location of that corrosion? The switch?
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Could be the wire itself - if it's black that is not a good thing. Hopefully it's not black very deep into the length of the wire - hopefully they left you a little service loop. May have to pull a new wire or 2.
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Rick-
Yes, both wires were black, instead of a red and black... I just attributed that to 12 years of dirt and grime, but it sounds like there's another cause?
There is about 16" of extra wire at the pump.
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Hey Glock, I think Rickk meant on the wire itself inside the plastic cover. The wire will be black looking rather than shiny silver from the tin coating. You have to strip the coating back to check this.
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Lewis,
More than likely the entire length of the wire will show the corrosion. I have a small Ranger flats boat at the house right now, '04 with a 60 4s Yamaha on it. The boat is in excellent shape, yet the engine harness is corroded so badly, it will have to be replaced...in only 5 years! Boat lives on a lift on the Homosassa River.
Gotta love our wonderful Gulf air... :x
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MikeR,
Your 215 has a "poured foam" transom, just like Glock's 225 Osprey. Checked out the HPDI, the 200 weighs in at 475 lbs. Funny, Yam's website didn't mention a 250, nor the 300, which I hung a bunch of at Stamas several years ago. Wonder if Yam is still making them. What year is the motor?
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Uggghhh... So I'll likely have to fish new wire from the pump to the switch at the helm??!
Sounds like a serious project!
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Glock, If you can seperate the one bad wire from the bundle all you do is tie one end off to the new and use it to pull through. Sometimes its not too hard if its seperate from the bundle.
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Glock,
In the bilge, starboard side looking forward, you will see the rigging tube that the main harness/engine harness/everything else runs forward to the console area. Inside the console there is an inspection plate (Pie) that allows you to reach under the deck and retrieve anything run forward.
The best snake, should you not be able to find a loose wire (there probably aren't any since the main harness was taped together the length of the harness), the best snake to use is a used "Universal" shift/throttle cable.
Not that hard, done it a million times...guess that what makes it not so hard anymore!
Bob C
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As usual , a wealth of knowledge Bob! :thumleft:
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Glock,
In the bilge, starboard side looking forward, you will see the rigging tube that the main harness/engine harness/everything else runs forward to the console area. Inside the console there is an inspection plate (Pie) that allows you to reach under the deck and retrieve anything run forward.
The best snake, should you not be able to find a loose wire (there probably aren't any since the main harness was taped together the length of the harness), the best snake to use is a used "Universal" shift/throttle cable.
Not that hard, done it a million times...guess that what makes it not so hard anymore!
Bob C
It kinda hard to see but the tube SB is refering to is located at the bottom center of this photo. It's just under the thru-hull that drains the "cooler/storage/livewell (depends on the model year). You can see the inspection plate located upper center. The mass of spaghetti is going into the tube but you can reach through the plate and touch it all. The tube is pretty big and this photo is taken from the cabin, starboard side with the paneling removed. You may be able to use an electrical "snake" to get through from this position.
A two beer job. Three, if you wish to admire your work.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Starboardsideinnerhull.jpg)
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CB,
An Explorer, looking aft into the starboard wing! God, it's been a long time since I've seen that view. Remember, Glock has an Osprey, so his rigging tube passes thru the starboard stringer next to the fuel tank.
Beautiful pic, for those of us who get into "what goes on behind the scenes"!
BTW, a couple of notes. First, that "banjoed" wire...what is it? Secondly, any rigging job "after the fact" is easily worth 3-4 beers! :cheers:
Bob C
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Right you are. I don't know why I was thinking GD had a WAC. :scratch:
The banjo string? I believe it runs to the old speaker the PO had coming from his rusty radio.
There is an abundance of wires running in all directions, most of which I hope to remove.
There also seems to be many cavernous "secret" spots just begging for storage access. The more I drink, the more I find. :drunken:
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Right you are. I don't know why I was thinking GD had a WAC. :scratch:
The banjo string? I believe it runs to the old speaker the PO had coming from his rusty radio.
There is an abundance of wires running in all directions, most of which I hope to remove.
There also seems to be many cavernous "secret" spots just begging for storage access. The more I drink, the more I find. :drunken:
Thought the "plucker" was a speaker wire...
How about twin mid-berths, port and starboard, in those wings? Hey, on our 32 Pilot (or more appropriately, the Pro-Line 32 Express Cruiser), you could have a mid-berth aft of the mid-berth.
I believe we call that "dead space"...designers haven't figured out that concept yet!
And Rick will get the "beer cheer" avatar...in a few! :drunken: :drunken:
BTW, time to visit the CP page and make my feelings known about Irwin Jacobs... :x
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Rick,
Here it is.
http://www.yahoofreak.com/drinking-animated-emoticons (http://www.yahoofreak.com/drinking-animated-emoticons)
Import them, if you see fit...
Bob C
P.S. Gotta love the Beer Jumper!
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GD,
I have a 2004 Explorer and had the very same problem this summer and it turned out to be a bad circuit breaker.
When testing the circuit with a 12 volt test light, it showed power present so I assumed it was a bad pump. it wasn't.
Try hooking a headlight or some other 12 volt device to the circuit and see what happens. My guess is the power goes away once you put a "load" on the circuit.
West Marine had a replacement breaker available, but I had to drill out the dash a small amount for it to fit.
Don't know about yours, but my dash is full of breakers made in China, except for the one I replaced. I plan on replacing some of the others this winter that handle high current loads, bilge pumps, etc. Last thing you want is an electrical problem while the boat is in the water.
Good luck and let us know what fixes it.
WD.
Going to check the amps this afternoon. (I couldn't remember the settings on the multimeter to check for amperage, so I had to come home and look it up!) :scratch:
If the amps are too low, and I'm expecting that--what else could it be-- where is the most likely location of that corrosion? The switch?
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hmmmm good idea to test the breaker. Sounds better than running new line, no matter how easy Bob makes it sound!
Wave- why did you have to cut your dash? Couldn't you install the breaker from inside the compartment?
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GD,
Yes, it is a WHOLE lot easier to check the breaker! See if there is any resistance, even minimal, across the spade terminals.
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GD,
Yes, it is a WHOLE lot easier to check the breaker! See if there is any resistance, even minimal, across the spade terminals.
Yeah great idea. I pulled off the switch panel and removed the circuit breaker. Interestingly enough, the rubber cap that covers the push button on this breaker was missing... :idea: Might that have something to do with it?
So I tested it with the meter. Here's where I'm in uncharted waters. But if I tested it correctly for resistance, I was getting readings between 0.2 and 70.5. I'm not an electrician, but I don't think that's right... :scratch:
Does it look like I'm doing this right? :?:
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z320/MikeVAg33/breaker.jpg)
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Another query for the experts. I bought an on-board battery charger today at Bass Pro, and I'm trying to figure out where to mount it. Why did I buy a charger? Well, let's just say that I learned the hard way about having fully charged batteries when you launch your boat!! :oops:
Anyhow, it looks like there's a flat surface area in the bilge just aft of my 2 batteries, as you can see in this photo (actually I had removed 1 of the batteries). Is there sufficient support to mount the charger here with 4 screws?
Now that I think about it, getting a drill in there to make the pilot holes is gonna be tricky :shock:
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z320/MikeVAg33/BilgeArea.jpg)
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Does it look like I'm doing this right? :?:
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z320/MikeVAg33/breaker.jpg)
You should always test resistance readings with your right hand/hook and volt/amps with your left. :roll:
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You should always test resistance readings with your right hand/hook and volt/amps with your left. :roll:
Nice!
I didn't really mean the hand technique so much, but the setting on the meter... (usually I keep a lead in each hand, but had to grab the camera phone with my right! ;) )
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Mike,
Any reading other than .000 or .001 indicates the presence pf more resistance than you want. Another check is to apply voltage to the breaker and check for voltage drop across the terminals. Your output side should be the same as the input side. Keep in mind that since all your breakers were installed/wired at the same time, they all most likely are in the same condition.
As far as your install of an onboard charger, what I would do is relocate your washdown pump to the top of the stringer just below the current location, then mount the charger where the pump was. It will live in a lot better environment than the one you were thinking about, and a whole lot easier to install. Use a charger inlet like this one, from Marinco:
(http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/62113722.jpg)
Excellent idea to install the charger, regardless of any :oops: incidents!! :salut:
Bob C
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OK, thanks Bob... Getting a new breaker today, and with any luck, that will do the trick. I did notice that when I peeled back the insulation from my pump's wire, a few of the strands were dark gray in color, while the rest were shiny copper. So, if the breaker doesn't fix it, I guess I'm about to try my hand at rewiring a pump!
I will see about relocating that livewell pump to make space for the battery charger. My only concern is having 8" of open space around the charger, as the manual calls for. That thing gets HOT, and I want to make sure its far enough away from fuel & oil lines.
So why the big open space behind the 2 batteries? Space to place a 3rd battery?
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Nah, pretty much the result of the design, as well as the fact that it is pretty far back there!
If your worried about heat build-up, just leave the little access door open when your charging...
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Hmmm, finding a new push-button type circuit breaker may be a little tougher than I thought.
I've struck out at both West Marine and Bass Pro.
Any reason I couldn't use an in-line fuse instead?
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No, but breakers are better, resettable, if you know what I mean.
Give me your amperage needs, and I'll get you the breakers, exact fit. If you want, we'll start with the washdown pump. If you want to replace all on your switch panel, we can do that too. You'd have them by the end of the week.
Bob C
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No, but breakers are better, resettable, if you know what I mean.
Give me your amperage needs, and I'll get you the breakers, exact fit. If you want, we'll start with the washdown pump. If you want to replace all on your switch panel, we can do that too. You'd have them by the end of the week.
Bob C
:D
Bob, I'm gonna owe you more than a few beers, my friend! <insert beer mug emoticon here>
The livewell pump is on a 10amp breaker, like the one in my picture above. Please let me know what I'll owe you. My switch panel has 12 breakers across, and I should probably replace those too while I've got the panel off, huh? I'll take a look at the amperage on those and PM you.
Are those push-button types rare? I struck out at 4 different places today! BassPro, West Marine, Lowes, and Advance Auto...
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Mike,
West Marine used to carry them, at a reasonable price. i guess that has gone by the wayside...
I'll get you your breakers... :bball: GO MAGIC!
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Hey Seabob,
Today i changed my lower unit oil. The oil did come out slightly grey which means water in the oil. When taking off the 2 screws to change the oil, I noticed that the top screw had 2 teflon washers on it while the bottom screw did not have any. Is this normal? I would think that it isn't. Then, when i went to install the screw from the oil pump into the bottom opening, it would not fit, like it was too small and loose. I tried to install it into the upper opening and it fit fine. I then tried both screws in each opening and they worked fine in both. That was weird that i couldn't get the fitting to screw into the bottom opening. So I filled it from the top and slowly opened it to bleed out the air while I was filling it. Would you know why it did not fit into the bottom, strange. I will watch the oil and check it after a few times to see if the oil is changing color again, hopefully it was the missing washer that caused the water to get in.
Not to ask again, but when you can, could you tell me where I could get that replacement cover hatch for my cabin entrance. Steve
What kind of gas (size) lever should I use for the cover.
Thanks Seabob
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hmmmm good idea to test the breaker. Sounds better than running new line, no matter how easy Bob makes it sound!
Wave- why did you have to cut your dash? Couldn't you install the breaker from inside the compartment?
GD,
Post a picture of your dash if you can.
If it is the same as mine, the circuit breakers all mount to the dash panel, and the dash panel mounts to the helm.
On mine, if you remove the 16 some screws from the dash panel, you can pull it forward enough to work on it.
As far as drilling it out, it has to do with the size of the circuit breaker that passes through the dash panel, nothing else.
WD.
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hmmmm good idea to test the breaker. Sounds better than running new line, no matter how easy Bob makes it sound!
Wave- why did you have to cut your dash? Couldn't you install the breaker from inside the compartment?
GD,
Post a picture of your dash if you can.
If it is the same as mine, the circuit breakers all mount to the dash panel, and the dash panel mounts to the helm.
On mine, if you remove the 16 some screws from the dash panel, you can pull it forward enough to work on it.
As far as drilling it out, it has to do with the size of the circuit breaker that passes through the dash panel, nothing else.
WD.
Will do. All my breakers are above the switch that operates the circuit, along a long switch panel that's about 18" long. I have 12 switches on it, but only about 6 or 8 screws hold the panel to the helm. While I'm on that subject... I'd love to know where to find a replacement panel. Mine is cracked in half and the corners are broken off!
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Well GD, got to work on the breakers today. Got most of them, will have the rest tomorrow:
(http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/DSCF0716.jpg)
PM you on the price. Don't worry, will be cheap, considering...
As far as your switch panel, check out Marine Surplus down where you are or in Sarasota. They used to buy all of Wellcrafts outdated stuff, and they may have your panel. MG&G out of Virginia Beach was making our stuff back then, but I doubt you'd have much luck with them considering the age of the boat.
Bob C
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Hey Seabob,
Today i changed my lower unit oil. The oil did come out slightly grey which means water in the oil. When taking off the 2 screws to change the oil, I noticed that the top screw had 2 teflon washers on it while the bottom screw did not have any. Is this normal? I would think that it isn't. Then, when i went to install the screw from the oil pump into the bottom opening, it would not fit, like it was too small and loose. I tried to install it into the upper opening and it fit fine. I then tried both screws in each opening and they worked fine in both. That was weird that i couldn't get the fitting to screw into the bottom opening. So I filled it from the top and slowly opened it to bleed out the air while I was filling it. Would you know why it did not fit into the bottom, strange. I will watch the oil and check it after a few times to see if the oil is changing color again, hopefully it was the missing washer that caused the water to get in.
Not to ask again, but when you can, could you tell me where I could get that replacement cover hatch for my cabin entrance. Steve
What kind of gas (size) lever should I use for the cover.
Thanks Seabob
Steve,
I believe your companionway door pieces were made from smoked plexiglass. The outfit that made them was bought by a company called SparTech, which, unfortunately, went out of business last year. We at Pro-Line will have to scramble when we need new parts that they used to make for us.
You might want to try Teak Isle or Paragon Plastics. Here are links:
http://www.teakisle.com/
http://www.paragonplastics.net/
Hope this helps...
Bob
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Thanks Bob. I have already been in contact with Teak Isle and will send them pics to see what they can do. I did find a local company that can make me a new hatck using mine as the template. I enjoy following your posts, I am learning a lot.
Question, the bilge pump that is under the transom (sorry if using bad teminology) does this run automatically when it senses water or does a switch have to be turned on for it to run? I dont hear it turning on with the aft bilge switch. I can hear the forward bilge go on when I turn the switch on.
Thanks. Steve
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What kind of gas (size) lever should I use for the cover.
Steve,
The photo below was supplied by our Mod RickK.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/IMG_1734.jpg)
It is a photo of the current model gas spring (one on each side) he is using on his 92 WAC cabin hatch.
It an Attwood model (duh) SL33-20-1
If I remember correctly, it is 9.5" closed x 15" opened though I don't think the hatch opens quite that far. It appears to be the same one used on my 91 WAC.
This is the painted model and they (Attwood) also make a stainless version.
SeaBob mentioned Ameritool as the current supplier for the Proline boats he works on and I ordered two from them with the same specs. These are stainless and cost a little less than the Attwood stainless.
Link to Attwood in stainless
http://www.backtoboating.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=48
link for Ameritool spring
http://www.ameritoolmfg.com/store.asp?pid=16986
I purchased the 625-6-30. This increased the lifting/closing force by 10lbs and should support the hatch.
You can browse both sites. The Attwood non stainless is very affordable and the Ameritool is about $16 cheaper IIRC than the Att. Stainless.
SeaBob should chime in with his thoughts on which is the best for the buck.
A tip-o-the-hat to both Rick and SeaBob on the springs :thumright:
Good Luck
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We use Ameritool at Pro-Line. One thing we like (aside from the cheaper price!) is that the force ratings are etched into the strut housing, not stenciled or a little sticker. Over time, the stencil wears off or the sticker falls off, and you have no idea how many pounds your strut is...JMHO.
Bob
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Hopefully the Attwoods I put in will outlast me.
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This reminds me to look for my gas struts that prop up my front console seat... Will have to check out that Surplus Marine. Darnit I promised myself I'd be done with boat projects for the winter! ;)
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Mike,
Nope. You have more. And get over to Surplus. As Rick knows, I'm not to thrilled with their prices as I know what they bought stuff from Wellcraft cost them. Hell, they even come up to Homosassa and buy our old stuff! :scratch:
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Again I have to say, you guys are awesome! Thanks for the pic and the links. I just had a rep from attwood send me a new gas vent, mine somehow popped off. The guys info is as follows: Steven Hovinga
Customer Technical Support
Attwood Corporation
616-897-2421
This guy was unbelievable. I was asking him about getting a new vent cap since mine popped off. He actually sent me two different vents at no charge.....unbelievable. One was what I was looking for vent valve 23-16073 in white. I was able to remove the deckplate to access the vent valve (thanks guys for your pics of the inner hull, they inspired me to go for it and do this) and put the new vent pice in. It came out great!!
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Hey Bob, I saw you give out links to the specs on different boats. Do you have one for my boat. 98 225 Explorer. Thanks Steve
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I don't have a 98 catalog.
This is from the 97 book. I don't know how much the model years changed. SeaBob might have that answer.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/97Catalog010.jpg)(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/97Catalog011.jpg)
Well it knitted fairly well but you can't read the specs.
Try this link. You should be able to zoom the page and read them.
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/97Catalog010-1.jpg
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Hey Bob
I started a post if you could please advise that would be great. 98 Ospey 245. Thank you
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Hey Bob
I started a post if you could please advise that would be great. 98 Ospey 245. Thank you
Check your other thread.
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Thanks for the picture. When I went to the photobucket link, only half the page showed. Thanks again. Steve
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Thanks for the picture. When I went to the photobucket link, only half the page showed. Thanks again. Steve
My pleasure.
The bucket link was the page with the "specs". I thought that would be of most interest. The other half is ad fluff.
Again, those are 1997 specs but they're probably fairly close.
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Hey Bob, I noticed that the spec mention a water tight tackle locker. Is that the small area in the upper box to left of the washdown area or is it the lower opening to bilge?
Also, in the spring I want to do some replacement of the rub rail. Can you tell me what size and shape rubrail I need to match what is on the boat now and any recommendations of where to get it? Also should I replace the entire set (not sure of terminology, rigid base and flex insert) or just the damaged areas? I have about 3 or 4 areas of damage not near each other. What is the type and size needed?
Thanks again for your help.
Steve
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Steve,
Your Rubrail is made by Taco, and it is one of these on this page:
http://tacomarine.com/cat--Rigid-Rub-Rail-with-Flexible-Insert--Rigid_rubrail_flex_insert.html
Don't know where in your area you can buy, but I know the extrusion we buy comes in about 18' sections, and the insert we buy buy the roll.
As far as your tackle center being water tight? Well, I would take a hose to it and see what happens... :mrgreen:
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Thanks again Bob, there were so many rubrails, it got to be confusing. i figured you would know exactly which one to get.
Thanks, Steve :salut:
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Steve,
I'm pretty sure it was this one:
http://tacomarine.com/item--1-1-2-x-7-8-Rigid-Rub-Rail--V21-9501.html
Check out the insert at the bottom of the page.
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Hey Bob, I noticed that the spec mention a water tight tackle locker. Is that the small area in the upper box to left of the washdown area
Steve
It is indeed. :thumright:
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Hey Bob, I noticed that the spec mention a water tight tackle locker. Is that the small area in the upper box to left of the washdown area
Steve
It is indeed. :thumright:
Cool! :cheers:
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Seabob-
I snuck a peek at that Taco link also .... Do they sell direct?
I didn't see any prices, and I'm wondering how much a rubrail replacement might run me. Mine needs a new one, but it's cosmetic, so not high on my priority list.
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Seabob-
I snuck a peek at that Taco link also .... Do they sell direct?
I didn't see any prices, and I'm wondering how much a rubrail replacement might run me. Mine needs a new one, but it's cosmetic, so not high on my priority list.
GD, Steve,
I have a very good friend at Taco, but the problem is the extrusion length. Even doubled over, your still looking at 9' plus the shipping carton, which means freight instead of UPS/Fedex. The insert is no problem, as a 200' roll is only the size of a computer box.
Let me get a hold of my buddy, and see if we can't work something out. Most, if not all of their stuff ships out of Miami. There might be a solution. And yes, I know you guys have the gray insert.
Bob C
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Seabob-
Any chance in asking your friend at Taco to see if we could get a custom run of rubrail to match the 70's era classic green? I'm sure we could get a thread going to see if there is enough interest.
-Rog
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Rog,
What shade green? And you better be a south sider...GO SOX!!! :thumleft:
Don't know about the Cubbie fans... :shock:
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Hey Bob-
Are you from Chicago? I might have to lie and say I'm a Sox fan to get my hands on some of the green rubrail! But the truth is I've been a diehard CUBS fan all my life. If it helps, I did root for them in '05 when we were out of it!
I'm not sure of what the actual color of green is but can provide a sample. I know many here have asked about finding the elusive green rubrail.
-Rog
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Rog,
Born in Chicago Heights, raised in Olympia Fields, graduated Rich Central HS, attended U of I until '80. Parents, Mom, 35th and Western, Dad, 87th and Washtenaw. That should tell you something!
See if my buddy at Taco can figure this one out. And don't worry, Cub fans will be allowed to participate...SACRILAGE!!!! :mrgreen:
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I guess you could be called a "south sider" for sure. I'm pretty sure the profile is a standard Taco run but in green. the insert is a white rope style.
-Rog
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thanks Bob for the rubrail information. Let me know about your friend if he can get these for us. I probably could order from wet maring.com, they have these....I think!
Steve :santa:
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Another consideration is Barbour Plastics. Here's their site:
http://www.barbourcorp.com/marine-prod-rubrails.htm
Although they were not the original supplier, they make an excellent product, and supply Boston Whaler. We know they aren't cheap!
Bob C
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Hello there to Bob and everyone else hear on this blog....I want ot wish you all a very Happy Thanksgiving Day today and a great Holiday season!
By the way, I landed a 30lb Striper last Saturday out at Montauk on the Lazybones. Go to noreast.com and see report in ny! Here is the link!
http://www.noreast.com/postedreports/vi ... &daysold=7 (http://www.noreast.com/postedreports/view.cfm?region_ID=33&id=121912&water_ID=1&fishingType_ID=0&startRecord=101&orderby=date&daysold=7)
:santa:
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Steve,
Nice fish! Looks like a healthy female.
Have a great Thanksgiving as well!
Bob C
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How can you tell male from female?
:santa:
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Hello there to Bob and everyone else hear on this blog....I want ot wish you all a very Happy Thanksgiving Day today and a great Holiday season!
By the way, I landed a 30lb Striper last Saturday out at Montauk on the Lazybones. Go to noreast.com and see report in ny! Here is the link!
http://www.noreast.com/postedreports/vi ... &daysold=7 (http://www.noreast.com/postedreports/view.cfm?region_ID=33&id=121912&water_ID=1&fishingType_ID=0&startRecord=101&orderby=date&daysold=7)
:santa:
I can't seem to get to that site - has it just gone down? Bob broke it :scratch:
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Wow...guess I did!
Steve, she seems to have a hefty belly on her, typical of a female fish...hopefully not of a female human! :mrgreen:
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It should work now rick, I think that it was down for a short time yesterday, i couldn't get on either. Steve :santa:
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See, Rick, I didn't break it! :D
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Hello,
I have a 25 foot WAC year 1988, looks like the family fisher of that year. Wanted to know were the wood is located in the hull or transom. Would like to have any information you could share with me. I have never owned an Aquasport just Mako's. Is this a good hull and what problems did they have. The transom is enclosed with twin 150 yams on her.
Thanks for the help
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The boat has a wood transom and the underside of the sole is wood. The rest of the boat is wood-free.
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Hello,
I have a 25 foot WAC year 1988, looks like the family fisher of that year. Wanted to know were the wood is located in the hull or transom. Would like to have any information you could share with me. I have never owned an Aquasport just Mako's. Is this a good hull and what problems did they have. The transom is enclosed with twin 150 yams on her.
Thanks for the help
Look something like this :?: http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/2866/sort/1/cat/574/page/1
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Yes Sir,
That is the boat, but the transom has been enclosed.
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Hello seabob4,
First I would like to say thanks for all your help. I have read your posts and have learned lots!
I have a 1988 222 express fisherman w/a. I would take it from you posts it has a wood transom. When I bought it there was no motor. It had a Yamaha and I put a Merc on it. My questions are about the way the Yamaha was mounted. It was mount to the starboard but just over an inch off center. I did test drive the boat with the Yamaha and it seemed fine. I redrilled holes and filled the old holes with 3m Marine sealer, 3200 I think. So...What are your thoughts on the original hole locations and concerns with the wood transom being damaged? Thanks!
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John,
It would seem odd to me that a motor would be mounted off center purposely. 1/4" I could understand (retard installer), but over an inch? Do me a favor. Tape a straightedge to the hullside at the transom, both port and starboard. Measure over to the center of the hull just past the garboard drain from one side. Let's say that is 40". Now, go over to the other side and measure the same 40". Measure between the 2 marks and that will be your hull center. See how well that lines up with the existing, or previous mounting holes for the Yamaha.
Any motor, on any boat, regardless of manufacturer, should be located in relation to the hull, NEVER the deck. Decks float and end up in any number of positions in relation to the hull during the decking process. The motor attaches to the hull, and the hull doesn't change... :wink:
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Steve,
I'm pretty sure it was this one:
http://tacomarine.com/item--1-1-2-x-7-8-Rigid-Rub-Rail--V21-9501.html
Check out the insert at the bottom of the page.
Think that's the same one on my '97 245 Explorer? I'm getting ready to remove the old insert, reattach the loose spots on the rail, and install a new insert. Thanks!
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Steve,
I'm pretty sure it was this one:
http://tacomarine.com/item--1-1-2-x-7-8-Rigid-Rub-Rail--V21-9501.html
Check out the insert at the bottom of the page.
Think that's the same one on my '97 245 Explorer? I'm getting ready to remove the old insert, reattach the loose spots on the rail, and install a new insert. Thanks!
Yes, that's the one, confirmed it with my Taco guy.
However, he tells me the original gray insert is no longer produced. That's not to say you can't get it, just to let you know Taco's stance on the subject...
And you know you are going to have to heat that insert up to get it in the extrusion. We used to make "pusher" tools out of starboard that would fit over the main part of the insert and compress the flanges that fit in the extrusion. After heating, and lubricating, I could install an insert on a 245/250 Osprey/Explorer in 30 seconds...good tool to fab... :thumright:
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Question on my 245 Explorer: Why is there a water tank when I have a sink but no faucet in the cuddy? Thanks!
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Cdoyal,
The water tank feeds your cockpit shower. The faucet in the cabin was an additional option (yeah, stupid!). You can add one by snaking a fresh water line teed off the transom mounted pump forward, if you want... :lol:
-
So my aft control panel controls the fresh water, raw water, and live well?
Also, my boat apparently came with a water temp gauge. Any idea why? Was it wired so it was reading both heads at the same time?
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So my aft control panel controls the fresh water, raw water, and live well?
This is how your Explorer is set up. You have a common pump that feeds a 3 port valve at your tackle center. Turn the valve one way, you have "Washdown". Turn it the other way, you have "Livewell". They are by no means connected to your fresh water system.
Open the small door adjacent to your livewell on the port side. You will see a pump located either on the transom wall or atop the stringer. THAT is your fresh water pump, and is is energized by a switch on the helm panel, probably an "Accessory" switch as it was an option.
If you want to add a cabin faucet, see my above post... :thumright:
Bob C
Also, my boat apparently came with a water temp gauge. Any idea why? Was it wired so it was reading both heads at the same time?
Are you sure this isn't a Water Pressure guage? They were standard on all Wellcraft/AS's at that time. If it's water temp, some owner added it afterwords. Look at the back side of the gauge and see if there is a tube coming off the back. That would be a water pressure gauge.
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So my aft control panel controls the fresh water, raw water, and live well?
This is how your Explorer is set up. You have a common pump that feeds a 3 port valve at your tackle center. Turn the valve one way, you have "Washdown". Turn it the other way, you have "Livewell". They are by no means connected to your fresh water system.
Open the small door adjacent to your livewell on the port side. You will see a pump located either on the transom wall or atop the stringer. THAT is your fresh water pump, and is is energized by a switch on the helm panel, probably an "Accessory" switch as it was an option.
If you want to add a cabin faucet, see my above post... :thumright:
Bob C
That's bizarre. You can fill the freshwater tank but emptying it was an "option"??? :shock:
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Alright, I'm not getting something here, so let's go over it again.
Your Washdown/Livewell system is completely separate from your fresh water system. The fresh water system was an option, so the pump is most likely energized by an accessory switch on your helm panel. To drain the water tank, simply pull out the water line at the tank that feeds your pump and let it drain into the bilge, either via the garboard drain of let the bilge pump get rid of it.
Are we clear? :scratch:
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I understand the two different systems. No problems there.
I have a small compartment aft with a hose fitting and a y-handle that handles the raw washdown and the livewell. We're all good so far.
I also have a fresh water tank with a pump that's most likely controlled by an accessory switch at the helm. My only confusion was not having a galley faucet or an aft shower head, hence my question on how to empty the tank (other than draining it from the bottom of the tank where I'm guessing it's a pain to get to). Could there be a hose or other type of fitting on the outlet of the pump? The boat's covered with a tarp and a foot of snow or else I'd be out there right now with a flashlight.
Thanks a ton for your help. You've provided me with unbelievable amounts of info on my boat and I truly appreciate it.
-
...not having a galley faucet or an aft shower head...
Wait a minute, you're telling me you DON'T have a transom shower? Port side in the transom walk thru area? So you just have a fresh water tank that does nothing? Weird....
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Nope. That's not to say the PO didn't remove it though.
And you thought I was just crazy...
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Now I get it... :roll:
So, do you want to re-plumb?
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Sounds like the pump and it's intended shower are in the same general area so it'll be easy to trace the output of the pump to wherever it goes (or doesn't).
I fished a pullstring down each side of the boat (easy to do and plenty of room to do it) and then pulled 2 drinking water quality hoses from the bilge, where I put my fresh and raw pumps.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68raw_water_washdown6.JPG)
I pulled these up to the helm area, fresh on Port, raw on starboard so that I had centralized water for washing the boat down. I installed the outlets under the seats at the helm and put 2 different connectors on the 2 different spray hoses that you plug into the outlets so I could never use raw for fresh and vice versa.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68raw_water_washdown3.JPG)
I can wash the entire boat down from those two points.
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I would venture to say that your seat is a little tough on the "southern end" in a chop :roll:
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:lol:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68raw_water_washdown4.JPG)
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Ahhhh.
That feels a lot better :wink:
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Was wondering if anyone knew how much weight the transome on a 1999 248 Explorer could handle in a single engine? Have a single engine on now that is I believe to be about 520 pounds.
Thanks for any help. Might be repowering this summer.
Justin
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I have a 500+ pound Johnson 225 on my 245 Explorer with no issues.
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Someone step up here and dispute my logic but......
1999 rated for 300hp?
2000 150hp "Rude" 405 lbs +/- http://www.outboardmotor.net/motors/146.html (http://www.outboardmotor.net/motors/146.html)
800 lbs +/- :scratch:
Works for me.
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Do I hear that white phone ringing????
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How 'bout a new 300 E-Tec? 528lbs :o
http://www.outboardmotor.net/motors/146.html (http://www.outboardmotor.net/motors/146.html)
And for my pal CJ (GoneFission) :pirat:
http://www.outboardmotor.net/motors/146.html (http://www.outboardmotor.net/motors/146.html)
OH Mama :wink:
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Do I hear that white phone ringing????
It's rung!! 8) Rick, great to see you on reelboating the other day...
Alright, on to transoms. The "poured foam" transom was virtually indestructable (IMHO), so the weak areas would be outboard of either side of the transom where it tied into the hull.
But I wouldn't worry about a thing. We built tons and tons of 225/250 Explorers and Ospreys with twin OMC/Merc/Yam 150s. Basically 1000 lbs. hanging off the back. Based on that fact, I would hang a single 350 Verado (662 lbs.) without a worry. The only motor I would feel a bit uncomfortable with is the 350 Yamaha. The transom can handle the weight (804 lbs. dry), but it's "advertised" thrust increase, as it would relate to torque on the transom...well, I'd be leery...
All that being said, the '94-'05 225/250 Explorer/Osprey will happily take about any single outboard you hang on them. I always wanted to see a twin 200 option on the 250, but... :thumleft: :thumleft:
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Do I hear that white phone ringing????
It's rung!! 8) Rick, great to see you on reelboating the other day...
Nice board to hang out on too. Wiley runs a tight ship - compared to what he created "over there". http://reelboating.com/forums/index.php?act=idx
I always wanted to see a twin 200 option on the 250, but... :thumleft: :thumleft:
My buddy Dave has the '94 250 and it came with twin Merc 200s on a bracket. Moves right along.
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My buddy Dave has the '94 250 and it came with twin Merc 200s on a bracket. Moves right along.
And they change to a "Euro-transom", lose 2' of useable cockpit space, and HP ratings drop by 50... :thumbdown:
Hey, I love Aquasports, but I hate IDIOTS! :cry:
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Thank you all for the input. I am thinking of putting a single Evinrude 250 off the transome and it sounds like it can handle it.
Justin
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Thank you all for the input. I am thinking of putting a single Evinrude 250 off the transome and it sounds like it can handle it.
Justin
Piece o'cake! :cheers:
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SeaBob,
Here is a loaded question, maybe: do you think the mpg a boat gets would be better if you had twins vs a single?
Example: my 230 weighs a lot loaded, probably in the 5-6k range with full fuel (140), full water (40), full cooler (160qt) and other stuff including me, wife and 55lb dog. So we're heavy and being pushed by a 250 Yammie. The motor runs sweet for being 19years old (knocking on wood) and when I'm cruising about 28mph, which seems to be the right sweet spot for her, she's burning about 16-19gph depending on conditions, trim, etc.
1) Would you think I would get better mpg with say, twin 130s or 140s?
2) Since my boat has the factory single on it, what would have to be done to mount twins on the transom and not change the existing "open" aft? (If I ever did this I think the first thing I would do is gut and rebuild the transom to make sure it's strong)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68Wifes_Fav_Speed.JPG)
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SeaBob,
Here is a loaded question, maybe: do you think the mpg a boat gets would be better if you had twins vs a single?
Example: my 230 weighs a lot loaded, probably in the 5-6k range with full fuel (140), full water (40), full cooler (160qt) and other stuff including me, wife and 55lb dog. So we're heavy and being pushed by a 250 Yammie. The motor runs sweet for being 19years old (knocking on wood) and when I'm cruising about 28mph, which seems to be the right sweet spot for her, she's burning about 16-19gph depending on conditions, trim, etc.
1) Would you think I would get better mpg with say, twin 130s or 140s?
2) Since my boat has the factory single on it, what would have to be done to mount twins on the transom and not change the existing "open" aft? (If I ever did this I think the first thing I would do is gut and rebuild the transom to make sure it's strong)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/68Wifes_Fav_Speed.JPG)
Rick,
Lets look at a couple of things first, in relation to your issues. What you are looking at is increased fuel mileage with the same performance as your existing Yammi. I don't really think you are after a top end gain in MPH, and I don't think you are that concerned with "get home" ability that a second motor would offer. If you were, hell, with that transom you could probably throw a 50 kicker on her and almost plane!
So let's factor in 2 concepts of going to twins. 1) Increased drag, and 2) increased fuel burn, due to the second motor, as well as the increased drag. Not a good thing. Then there is the additional weight, oops, I forgot that one. So far, for increased fuel mileage, we're not looking good.
Now let's look at props, and how they relate to performance. If an engine is turning 3500, yet the prop is not right for the boat, you may burn 2g in 3 miles. Yet the same engine, turning 3500, with the right prop, might burn 2g in 10 miles. It's not about the motor, it's about the props. But what if the same, lousy gph prop popped your boat on plane at 3000, and the good gph prop had trouble getting her over the hump at 5500? What is your fuel burn at the times when your not at cruise? And how often will these conditions occur?
Rick, many questions, and possibilities/probabilities raise their heads when it comes to twins VS a single. Top speed? Yes, you'll pick up some with twins. Fuel burn? Nope, you'll suffer. Get home ability? Yes, the second motor will get you home, but most boats your size won't plane on 1 motor, so why not just hang a good size kicker one her, make sure you have a portable gas can to isolate the fuel supply, and get a new 350 Verado for her? Hell, I'll come down and do the install and rigging for you (for a price! :lol: ). Sell the Yammi to chip in a bit towards the Vrod!
JMHO, sir.
Bob C
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Thanks Bob.
I was hoping that twins adding up to more hp, say twin 130s or 140s would work less than the one big motor trying to plane and push the boat thus might burn less.
Now, looking at the pic above, twins would not fit in the existing notch nor would the new notch have to be as deep considering the vee at the aft of the boat and the shaft length. So when these boats were made did the factory make x-amount for twins and x-amount for singles or did they mod the transom as required for new orders? Maybe twins fit on the transom sides shown above ok with no mods?
Have a great, safe and Happy New Year. I think I'm going to try and sneek the 170 out this morning - should be nice.
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Rick,
First, I hope you got out this AM. Dressed properly, would have been a beautiful morning out there, toss a couple of greenbacks under the mangrove branches, have a nice fight with a hungry snook as the sun comes up, can't beat it!
I can't say for certain how the 230 was setup for the single/twin engine choices, but I can offer an educated guess. Most likely the issue of shaft lengths was dealt with by varying the depth of the transom cutout. Keep in mind that, even back then, 150s (the max motor in a twin install) were quite a bit narrower than your 250 Yammi, therefore they would have fit...hell, they had to, they were offered, weren't they? Now, on the later versions, the 225/245/250 Explorers/Ospreys, twins required "alterations" from single installs. On the 225, the steering cylinder was a transom mount, as there was no way to accomodate the front mount cylinder with out it hitting the sides of the splashwell before it reached hardover. On the 245/250, a "relief" was molded into the swim platform, starboard side (ever notice that little 3-4" dip just adjacent to the splashwell?) to allow clearance for the front mount cylinder to swing all the way hardover.
Keep in mind that todays smaller motors, i.e. Suz, Yam, etec 130s, 140s, and 150s are far narrower still than motors back then. Look at the 4-S Yam 150, for instance. Inline 4, VERY narrow motor for a 150. Would probably be perfect for your boat in a twin application, with only a second set of rigging having to be run, another Yam tach added, a twin binnacle, and a twin key switch assembly. The steering cylinder is the same, so all you would need would be a tiebar.
You also might want to consider Etecs, as their weight advantage over the 4-strokes is a big plus. Since you already have an oil tank, obviously you have the space. BRP makes oil tanks that have 2, and even 3 ports, so you can feed both motors off of one tank.
So are you really considering doing this? If so, do your research, check for leftovers, which is highly likely these days. Suzuki right now is offering prices you just can't beat, and their 140s are excellent motors. Plus my good friend is Suzuki's Eastern US Field Engineer (lives right down the road from me in Hudson Beach), so I have an excellent resource to draw from.
So, there is my input. Hope it has helped. And BTW, the wife and I will have procured all of our libations and foodstuffs by noon tomorrow, won't be setting foot off the property until Saturday. Anybody would be crazy these days to go out on New Years Eve! JMHO...
Bob C
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I did indeed tow the 170 down to Venice, dropped her in the water and took off for Boca Grande. I had never been there via boat so this was a new adventure for me. The ICW is pretty narrow in a lot of spots on the way. The trip through the ICW is roughly 23 miles one way and took me 70 minutes each way. I would say there is about 15-20 minutes of idle zones each way. Cruised at 28 going down into the slight wind and 30 coming back. Used about 9 or 10 gallons.
Left the house at 8 and was back home at 1 - even with the 21 mile tow each way. Sweet run and beat the front dipping into Fla. Tossed a Cotie at the railroad tressle bridge just south of the Boca Grande bridge for a while - tide was just coming off a negative low - no action so I headed back.
Now I know how long it takes and how much fuel I'll use so I can head down there on a whim. Wouldn't save that much towing the boat all the way down there. Maybe a little time.
Now, back to the question I posted. I was just curious and may one day do the duals but it'll be when the 250 dies which I hope is not for a looooong time - have higher priorities right now. I got layed off at work back in July just to be re-hired in August into a different position. Been there so long (17 years) I forgot how to look for a job. :roll: Anyway, that woke my wife and I up and got us analyzing ways to shed debt, which the only thing we owe on is our house. So my lovely wife figured it out and on Jan 8 we'll be paying off the house. :cheers: Now if I get layed off I can work anywhere without fear of losing the roof over our head - let me practice.... "welcome to Walmart" :wink:
I won't be moving one inch away from my home tonight either. 8)
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So I re-built the helm of my latest job yesterday, after building a new switch panel. What do you think?
(http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/183%20Flats/183%20Bilge%20and%20Helm/DSCF0766.jpg)
I'm thinking leave a little more service loop where the 12V+ feed turns upward on the port side of the panel...hmmm.
In case of those wondering what the yellow cable is, yellow has been designated by CE, ABYC, NMMA, and AUS/NZ as the color to use for 12VDC ground, to differentiate between DC ground and 120VAC Hot. On newly built boats, chances are you won't see black wire anymore, even if you don't have 120V on board...
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Looks good Bob :salut:
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That's what I really miss... space. :(
The console has an abundance of room to layout your wiring and to access it easily that my little WAC is missing.
Lookin" good SB :thumright:
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I'm in the process of redoing my dash panel with teak instead of plastic and your tidyness inspires me to do the same.
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That's what I really miss... space. :(
The console has an abundance of room to layout your wiring and to access it easily that my little WAC is missing.
Lookin" good SB :thumright:
Bob,
This is a tiny little console, all the work has to be done through a hatch, but none the less, it does have that "space" that a WA simply can't provide. One of the good things about this job is that it is a TOTAL rewire, so I was able to yank out the old main harness, build my own, and start from scratch instead of having to work with someone elses crap!
What I always hated about AS WACs was the poor accesability to the helm wiring from inside the cabin. What I recommend is cut a large opening in the b/head behind the helm, and either install an access hatch (I use a 13" X 24" Jim Black hatch I can get at work), or fab a panel, cover it with vinyl or monkey fur, whatever your cabin overhead material is, and secure it with snap caps and matching buttons. Remove 4 screws and you have all the access you need.
She's about 85% complete, but with the day we're having today, I don't think much is going to get done...
(http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/DSCF0770.jpg)
Got to build a roof off the end of my shop... :(
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Happy New Year to Bob and everyone here at CA.
Bob, I have a question for you.
Do you know if I can get a replacement gauges/instrument panel for my 2004 Explorer 225?
The one I have has developed some imprefections in it and if I can replace it, I will.
Hope your New Year is good for you and your family.
Ken.
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My '97 245 had a cracked, faded dash and most of the gauges and wiring were toast. I bought all new gauges, switches, fuse blocks, tinned wire, etc. and am starting from the nav lights all the way back to the pumps and replacing everything. I bought a hunk of teak and resawed it into 1/4" panels. Three coats of Cetol Natural Marine Teak and this is what I have. As soon as it cures, I'll install the new gauges and switches. We got another six inches of snow today so the workshop is a good place to be!
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w295/cdoyal_bucket/Dash.jpg)
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CD,
That is a BEAUTIFUL panel, I love the look of wood (especially teak) in a cockpit, all this fancy plastic is cold and uninviting (to me, anyway), wood adds contrast and warmth.
That being said, Ken, and others, it would be nice to find some of those panels at Marine Surplus, but Mike (glockdiver) and RickK have already gone that route to no avail.
So what I suggest is Ultra Panel Marine (http://www.ultrapanel.net/contact.html) down in Miami. The fellow who owns it is named Ivo, and they will work with you on fabbing you a new panel, including the gauge and switch/breaker cutouts at a reasonable price. They are the supplier to Boston Whaler, and our sister company Donzi gets quite a few of their panels from them. There are other companies that do this type of work, but I know I have had great success with UPM. Just a suggestion.
Well, it quit raining, starting to get a bit chilly (54 degrees), so time to head out to the shop and play around.
Gators and Cincinnati in the Sugar Bowl tonight...any bets?
Bob C
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Well, fellas, I guess I've decided to change things up a little here in the New Year. First, I want you to know who your talking to when you might wonder who this "seabob4" guy is. So here I am:
(http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/DSCF0776.jpg)
Changed my sig as well, just to be a bit different (actually, quite a bit different!). I want you guys to know who I am, and that I get a HUGE amount of enjoyment seeing you guys enjoy your girls! Anything I can do to help is always my pleasure, and I hope I can be of assistance about any issue you may have, whether I was at AS the time your boat was built, or not. Being in the business, there are MANY things in boats of different makes and vintages that are very similar, and often are done the exact same way. In my side work, I work on Rangers, Wellcrafts, Prolines, Nauticstars, Grady's, Four Winns, you name it. If you know the basic concepts as to how boats are built, than, regardless of make, you follow those concepts, and, chances are, you can fix it.
Now that I'm done with myself, back to the conversation!
RickK, hope this gets the forum moving... :thumright:
Bob C
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What you working on there Bob?
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What you working on there Bob?
Piece of crap 17.5 HP B&S. My neighbor gave me his tractor (I didn't need it my 22 HP Kohler runs great) after it quit with less than 75 hours on it. Single cylinder Briggs. Figured I could fix it and make an easy $500. Did the research, 2 issues. Valve clearance and cam lobe wear. Adjusted the valves from hear to eternity, got her to run, oh, for maybe 20 secs, then she would die, and couldn't overcome compression. That's where the cam lobe comes in. Read where the exhaust lobe wears and won't engage the de-compression arm. So pulled the bottom end, pulled the cam, and it looks perfect. So, since I don't need the motor, it just sits there.
I had a 19 HP L-twin Briggs that ran great after 10 years before I got the Kohler. Frankly? I think this motor is not worth it. Up to 14 HP, single cylinder is fine. Anything bigger? A twin. So if you know someone who wants it, let me know. The whole motor is in excellent shape, inside and out. And I'm not going to buy a $50 cam only to find that doesn't fix the problem...
Other stuff going on in there as well, but right now the shop is a bit of a mess, as what I have yanked out of this old Proline has ended up on the floor...anybody need any really black corroded wire? I've got a ton of it... :lol:
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Hey there everyone, I hope that all is well and that you all had a happy New year. I haven't been on in a couple of weeks and figured i would pop on and share a big find today. While I was doing my usual Craigs List browsing at boats and stuff, I came across a local marina here on L.I. that was listing some new old storage of Aquasport parts. I got a tremendous deal on the full glass enclosure for my 225 along with two new jump seat. There are some other things that they have as well. Here is the link to the listing, check it out. I can't wait to get back into the water. I had a chance to go for some Cod yesterday with friends out at Montauk, I decided to go to work and stay warm.
Ron is the contact at amity Harbor Marina:
http://longisland.craigslist.org/boa/1551027420.html (http://longisland.craigslist.org/boa/1551027420.html)
Can't wait for spring!
Steve
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Ron is the contact at amity Harbor Marina:
Steve
Deja Vu
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5071 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5071)
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Boy how it is a small world, great being connected with this site! I got the curtains and enclosure for my 225 explorer, beautiful!
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Hey Bob,
Stringali here, I just brought my Cabin Hatch Lid to a plastic fabricator to make me a new hatch, mine was cracked. Could you tell me where to get the hardware for this hatch. I am having him reuse the hinges for the lid so they will match up with the existing holes that are on the boat already. I would like to know the locks that are used for the lid, they use the key that is rounded, I think that it is called a cam lock. Are you gamiliar as to which one I shoudl get for this, as well as the piece that attaches to the lid for the lift shock to install onto.
Thanks,
Steve
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Steve,
A pic is worth a thousand words, they say... :thumright:
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I know that freezer door keys fit the locks that are on the hatches now. I searched high and low for a key and found them at ACE hardware.
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Hey Bob-
While we're on the subject of wiring, my 245 Explorer has a four circuit fuse block under the washdown compartment on the transom, starboard side. Any idea what those four circuits are? They aren't labled and I'm going to replace it when I rewire. Thanks again for all your help here.
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CD,
You should have Aft Bilge, Forward Bilge, Stereo Memory, and trim tabs. The bilge breakers are for the float switches, they'll be wired "constant hot", as well as the stereo memory. The tabs will be wired switched.
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Perfect! I had guessed the three but forgot about the stereo. One more question: Do you recall how deep the fuel tank is? I need to order another sender. Thanks again. Buy yourself a beer and put it on my tab.
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Perfect! I had guessed the three but forgot about the stereo. One more question: Do you recall how deep the fuel tank is? I need to order another sender. Thanks again. Buy yourself a beer and put it on my tab.
No, but it's easy to find out. Remove the access plate (pie) at the aft end over the sender/pickup. Remove the sender (5 or 6 machine screws), stab the tank through the opening, measure where the line is. BTW, I just bought a new sender (Moeller) with the swing arm float at a pretty good price. Let me see if I can get you the info...
Here you go...http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/moeller-electric-fuel-sending-unit-6-24.aspx?a=515454
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I knew that but was taking the lazy way out by asking you instead of shoveling snow off the boat cover and crawling in there.
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I knew that but was taking the lazy way out by asking you instead of shoveling snow off the boat cover and crawling in there.
Like the depth of a 245 fuel tank is just going to be one of those things that stick in my head... :wink:
Get your ass out there and shovel some snow!
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Yes sir! :salut:
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Yes sir! :salut:
But first, a (http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/cheersemoticon-1.gif)!
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Thanks Rick, that is good info. And sorry Seabob, I did not take a pic before I brought the hatch to be made. It takes the round key and extends down with a lever that holds the hatch in place to the boat. I thought that maybe you would be familiar to this one. When i get it back, I will take a pic for you. Thanks, Steve
also Seabob, Is there a way that I can strengthen the hatch doors for the fish box. They are feeling a bit spongy when they are stepped on. Thanks again
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Steve,
Cut 2 lengths of Oak 2 X 2, about 1 /2" shy of the ends of both hatches lengthwise. Oak is very stiff on the longitudal. Cut a 45 at each end of both pieces. Resin coat. Grind and area on the underside of each hatch in the center where they'll be glassed in. Grind all the gelcoat off, removing at least 1" away from the actual bonding area. Cut 2 strips of 2415 the width and length of the 2 X 2s, long side down. Glass 2 X 2s to the undersides of the hatches. Let kick.
Now, glass over the tops of the stiffeners with 2 more layers of 2415, making sure the glass ties into the underside of the hatches. Let kick, grind, and brush on gel. Your encapsulating layers will probably be 6" wide by about 20" long. Stagger the seams so if th bottom layer comes loose, the whole glass work won't come loose...
And call me Bob C, if you don't mind... :thumleft:
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Thanks for the valuable help Bob C
I will get my 22 year old on that one!
Steve :lol:
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Thanks for the valuable help Bob C
I will get my 22 year old on that one!
Steve :lol:
Introduce him to the lost art of "glassing"... :shock:
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Speaking of "glassing", (notice the great segue into yet another question?) I'm installing new Atwood LED red and green marker lights on the bow of my Explorer. My problem is the new lights don't completely cover the old holes. There's a small gap that needs to be filled. I suppose I could use caulk but that's not a great solution in my opinion. Is glassing/epoxy and filling it with gel coat the way to go? (God, I hope not.) :puker:
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CD,
As long as the mounting screws for the new lights have good substrate to bite into, and the gap is small (less than 1/8"), then fill it with good white silicone and call it a day. If you want the gap to be gel, then I'm sure you know what kind of repair you're getting into... :x
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That sounds like an answer I can live with! :cheers:
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...not having a galley faucet or an aft shower head...
Wait a minute, you're telling me you DON'T have a transom shower? Port side in the transom walk thru area? So you just have a fresh water tank that does nothing? Weird....
Started the rewire project today. Here's a photo of the pumps available through the port side access. Think that fresh water tank was never plumbed?
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w295/cdoyal_bucket/Boat%20Stuff/pumps.jpg)
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CD,
The pump mounted vertically is your washdown/livewell pump, but what's coming out of the pump mounted horizontally? There should be a blue water line on the outlet side that runs back to port...
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CD is your water tank mounted under that pump,and were is the fill for the tank.
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Bob got my new bilge pump all hooked up today what a pain in the aft.
Do you remember how the wire is run to the port wiper,look to me like it goes under the carpet in the cabin.
I don't have a wiper and was thinking about using that wiring and switch for some led lights,thinking one or two in the bilge.
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Bob got my new bilge pump all hooked up today what a pain in the aft.
Do you remember how the wire is run to the port wiper,look to me like it goes under the carpet in the cabin.
I don't have a wiper and was thinking about using that wiring and switch for some led lights,thinking one or two in the bilge.
Scott,
Do you mean under the "Mouse Fur" on the overhead? Yeah, it did, ran from the switch panel and was laying there waiting for a wiper motor install. You can just pull it back into the helm area. Should be an orange, red, and black. But I just thought of something. Do you have a starboard wiper? if so, it's going to be jumpered off the starboard motor...unless you have 2 switches, one port, the other starboard. If that's the case, just pull it back (there's a lot of glue holding that headliner in place, it won't come easy...), then use it for your lighting idea.
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Thats the one,i don't have wipers at all,so i figured i would use all that wiring thats doing nothing.
Thanks Bob
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(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w295/cdoyal_bucket/Boat%20Stuff/pumps.jpg)[/quote]
Hey Bob was this the factory placement for the pumps? My washdown pump is in the same place but, my freshwater pump is in an ungodly place way down inside.
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Hey Bob was this the factory placement for the pumps? My washdown pump is in the same place but, my freshwater pump is in an ungodly place way down inside.
Bob,
No, it's not. The original location was on top of the inboard portside stringer. PITA to get to through that little door! :x
Bob
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Think i still have fiberglass in my arm pits after changing mine out :evil:
(http://i478.photobucket.com/albums/rr147/labboss2003/100_1808.jpg)
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CD,
The pump mounted vertically is your washdown/livewell pump, but what's coming out of the pump mounted horizontally? There should be a blue water line on the outlet side that runs back to port...
One line runs to a white water line that goes forward to the sink. (I'm assuming it goes to the sink but there's no faucet in the cuddy)
The other goes over to the freshwater washdown. The third line comes out of the water tank.
Is there just a hot and a ground on both of those pumps? I'm not familiar with the object mounted on the bottom of the raw water washdown/livewell pump.
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I'm not familiar with the object mounted on the bottom of the raw water washdown/livewell pump.
If you mean the black device with red wires (2), I'd guess a pressure switch.
I think it kills the pump if you stop spraying water but don't manually switch off the pump.
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I'm not familiar with the object mounted on the bottom of the raw water washdown/livewell pump.
If you mean the black device with red wires (2), I'd guess a pressure switch.
I think it kills the pump if you stop spraying water but don't manually switch off the pump.
Right you are Bob. Pumps without pressure switches simply run, and run, and run... :shock:
CD, just a simple hot/ground hookup. But you might want to figure out where the sink line is. Probably capped off in the sink area underneath. Yank out that close-out the conceals the port side wing and you'll probably find it there.
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Thanks, Bob. I'll make sure it's capped off before powering it up.
As I get deep into this re-wire project, I'm finding all kinds of stupid things the PO did.
For example:
Putting a fuse in line by cutting a wire, putting a female disconnect on either end, then attaching the legs of fuse to both disconnects.
Or tying a bunch of grounds together with ring connectors and a single bolt through the rings.
I think I've figured out where everything gets its power except for the ignition and the tilt. Since my new dash doesn't use breakers, I installed a 12 fuse block and I'm running most things up to the dash from there. It looks like a #6 wire powered everything on the dash before so now that wire's feeding the fuse block.
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CD,
Ignition and tilt/trim get their power through the engine harness. If you put a meter on the red wire on you ign switch, it should read voltage with the key off. This gives you trim/tilt. Turn the key to "run", and the purple wire should now have voltage. This enables your gauges and anything else that relies on ignition power...
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CD,
Ignition and tilt/trim get their power through the engine harness. If you put a meter on the red wire on you ign switch, it should read voltage with the key off. This gives you trim/tilt. Turn the key to "run", and the purple wire should now have voltage. This enables your gauges and anything else that relies on ignition power...
Just to clarify, this power doesn't come from inside to boat (to use simple terms). It's all in the harness then directly from the motor to the battery.
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CD,
Ignition and tilt/trim get their power through the engine harness. If you put a meter on the red wire on you ign switch, it should read voltage with the key off. This gives you trim/tilt. Turn the key to "run", and the purple wire should now have voltage. This enables your gauges and anything else that relies on ignition power...
Just to clarify, this power doesn't come from inside to boat (to use simple terms). It's all in the harness then directly from the motor to the battery.
CD,
That's correct. The boat's harness and the engine harness are 2 entirely separate entities, though they share the ground. That's it as far as "co-mingling"... :shock:
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Seabob,
It's great to know you're here:-)
I recently bought a 1995 175 Osprey which surveyed A-1 and seems to be very solid.
Can I tip the console up to get at wiring and steering without destroying the live well plumbing?
I've gotten different answer from every former dealer I contacted.
Thanks in advance,
Bob on Tampa Bay
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Bob,
That console should be installed with #14 lag screws, if I remember correctly. Pretty sure it wasn't t/bolted. Remove the screws, then lift up the back end, there should be enough slack in the feed and drain hoses of the livewell where you can probably lift her up about 6"-8" without bothering anything, maybe more. Get a buddy to help you, and while he lifts, you lay on the deck and see just how much hose you can coax up from under the deck. Just don't get carried away! :thumright:
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Thank you very much:-)
That solves my problem.
Bob on Tampa Bay
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Hey Bob,
I was showing my son that post you had written in regard to strengthening my hatch to the fish box. What do you mean by let kick? Hope that all is well. I am looking forward to another great boating season.
Steve
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Steve,
It's a term we use meaning harden, or kick-off. It's when the catylist and the resin become one...very hard substance! :thumleft:
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Bob to the white phone for an electrical question please:
I have a mini-harness going to the tach. There are several wires bundled together. Sender, ground, light, etc. One of the wires is purple (for the ignition, I'm assuming). Can I run all my ignition feeds off it?
Thanks,
Chris
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Seabob
2001 AS 225 EX - I found what appears to be future use wiring inside my cabin, Two sets dangling just under the port and starboard lights with finished ends. There is a good 8 ft extra wire in each coil. I believe they are white wires. Any idea what they are for?
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Seabob
2001 AS 225 EX - I found what appears to be future use wiring inside my cabin, Two sets dangling just under the port and starboard lights with finished ends. There is a good 8 ft extra wire in each coil. I believe they are white wires. Any idea what they are for?
Funny you mention that. In redoing my dash, I found a mystery white wire too. No idea what it's for.
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Bob to the white phone for an electrical question please:
I have a mini-harness going to the tach. There are several wires bundled together. Sender, ground, light, etc. One of the wires is purple (for the ignition, I'm assuming). Can I run all my ignition feeds off it?
Thanks,
Chris
CD, yes you can. Terminate the purple to the "I" post on your tach, then daisy chain to the other gauges...
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Seabob
2001 AS 225 EX - I found what appears to be future use wiring inside my cabin, Two sets dangling just under the port and starboard lights with finished ends. There is a good 8 ft extra wire in each coil. I believe they are white wires. Any idea what they are for?
Funny you mention that. In redoing my dash, I found a mystery white wire too. No idea what it's for.
I'm pretty sure those are pull wires, especially if there is no ground accompanying them...
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Bob to the white phone for an electrical question please:
I have a mini-harness going to the tach. There are several wires bundled together. Sender, ground, light, etc. One of the wires is purple (for the ignition, I'm assuming). Can I run all my ignition feeds off it?
Thanks,
Chris
CD, yes you can. Terminate the purple to the "I" post on your tach, then daisy chain to the other gauges...
I've got a purple on my tilt wiring bundle too. I'll connect those two and daisy chain them all together. Should take care of it.
My wife and I spent the afternoon fishing new wires from the forward bilge up to the helm. I think I owe her.
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Bob i was at m surplus the other day and drove slow by wellcraft next door,nothing going on but they do have a security guard,and i also saw some boat molds out back,maybe that's why,anyway i was wondering if you worked out of there or the site on Whitfield.
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Bob i was at m surplus the other day and drove slow by wellcraft next door,nothing going on but they do have a security guard,and i also saw some boat molds out back,maybe that's why,anyway i was wondering if you worked out of there or the site on Whitfield.
Scott,
I did about a 6 month stint down at plant 1 (by Marine Surplus) when they move the 225/250 Osprey and 230 Cat line down there, but got back to Plant 6 on Whitfield to wire Scarab Sports. Plant 1 was a MISERABLE place! So, 5 1/2 years on Whitfield, 6 months at Plant 1.
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Plant 1 looks really old and decrepit - must still do some customer service or something out of there - seen some big Hydrasports and such there.
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Thanks Bob i was just curious,and Rick your right about plant 1,heck the grass is almost as tall as the building.
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Plant 1 looks really old and decrepit - must still do some customer service or something out of there - seen some big Hydrasports and such there.
Probably using it for warranty work...
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Hey Bob-
Any idea of the manufacturer of the 2 1/2" white plastic vent that's in the transom doorway of my Explorer? Can't seem to locate a replacement that's 2 1/2".
Thanks,
Chris
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Chris,
Seems to me that the vent, which is most likely a Marine East product, was down-sized between then and now. Post a pic, as the battery compartment vents we use are much smaller. I'd like to see yours...
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Chris,
Seems to me that the vent, which is most likely a Marine East product, was down-sized between then and now. Post a pic, as the battery compartment vents we use are much smaller. I'd like to see yours...
Ask and ye shall receive.
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w295/cdoyal_bucket/Boat%20Stuff/DSC_9863.jpg)
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w295/cdoyal_bucket/Boat%20Stuff/DSC_9862.jpg)
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Hi Chris,
I believe that is where your fresh water shower spray is usually stored. it also had a plastic cover that snaped over it.
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Chris,
That is not a vent, that is your transom shower holder, Shurflo, I'm sure. If I was at work, I'd have you one in a heartbeat...but I'm not. But look at Shurflo's website, and you may be able to get the part by itself, without having to buy the whole assembly.
BTW, where is the showerhead?
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Chris,
That is not a vent, that is your transom shower holder, Shurflo, I'm sure. If I was at work, I'd have you one in a heartbeat...but I'm not. But look at Shurflo's website, and you may be able to get the part by itself, without having to buy the whole assembly.
BTW, where is the showerhead?
Ya got me. Probably in the PO's trash can. The water line is just lying in the bilge. I ASSumed it was running forward into the cuddy sink area. Never pulled on it to find out though. Maybe it's attached to the shower head! Found it on their site: http://www.shurflo.com/marine-products/ ... fault.html (http://www.shurflo.com/marine-products/faucets/marine-grade-faucets/shower-accessories/default.html)
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May be that this specific part and many other discontinued's are a good fab opportunity for someone....Fabrique' en Chine?
Bob C, this could be something to look at, since you are now into other projects....and you have a comparative advantage/knowledge of all of the components of the product line.
An add-on to your other web endeavors.
May be (or maybe not) for you. I'm just in sales.
But look at Sam's Marine. Old Hatt stuff has built an empire for Sam...
Bob's Marine?
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I pulled on the line and there was a shower head on the other end! Got 'er cleaned up and now all I need is a replacement shower head holder. On another note: I was cleaning out the fishbox today and noticed there was a hole drilled in the bottom of the box very near the screen covering the pump outlet. What's up with that?
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Chris,
A lot of times, the hole for the pump discharge was drilled to high. Therefore the valley below the discharge would always have standing water. The additional hole drained that minimal amount of water. If you want to plug it, put a good blob of 5200 over it, let it cure, and you'll be fine... :thumleft:
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Chris,
A lot of times, the hole for the pump discharge was drilled to high. Therefore the valley below the discharge would always have standing water. The additional hole drained that minimal amount of water. If you want to plug it, put a good blob of 5200 over it, let it cure, and you'll be fine... :thumleft:
Yeah, that's what I figured. That could explain how the water was getting into my bilge and I couldn't figure where it was coming from.
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Chris,
A lot of times, the hole for the pump discharge was drilled to high. Therefore the valley below the discharge would always have standing water. The additional hole drained that minimal amount of water. If you want to plug it, put a good blob of 5200 over it, let it cure, and you'll be fine... :thumleft:
Yeah, that's what I figured. That could explain how the water was getting into my bilge and I couldn't figure where it was coming from.
Chris,
If you want it to look nice, put some tape over the hole on the topside, them reach in through the starboard bilge access door and fill the hole from the bottom side. Let the 5200 kick, then peel the tape off.
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Chris,
A lot of times, the hole for the pump discharge was drilled to high. Therefore the valley below the discharge would always have standing water. The additional hole drained that minimal amount of water. If you want to plug it, put a good blob of 5200 over it, let it cure, and you'll be fine... :thumleft:
Yeah, that's what I figured. That could explain how the water was getting into my bilge and I couldn't figure where it was coming from.
Chris,
If you want it to look nice, put some tape over the hole on the topside, them reach in through the starboard bilge access door and fill the hole from the bottom side. Let the 5200 kick, then peel the tape off.
I'd have to hire a monkey to do that. My arms aren't long enough to reach!
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My bad... :oops:
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My bad... :oops:
Although I do know the neighbor kid who's about 6' 6" and doesn't weigh more than 150 pounds. He does have freakishly long arms....
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My bad... :oops:
Although I do know the neighbor kid who's about 6' 6" and doesn't weigh more than 150 pounds. He does have freakishly long arms....
Hey, I'm 6' 2" and go 165, I reached under there a BUNCH of times... :cheers:
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My bad... :oops:
Although I do know the neighbor kid who's about 6' 6" and doesn't weigh more than 150 pounds. He does have freakishly long arms....
Hey, I'm 6' 2" and go 165, I reached under there a BUNCH of times... :cheers:
Ok Monkey Boy. whatever!
On another note: What's the best way to remove cured 5200? Acetone?
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On another note: What's the best way to remove cured 5200? Acetone?
Razor blade.
I don't think acetone will faze it.
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On another note: What's the best way to remove cured 5200? Acetone?
Razor blade.
I don't think acetone will faze it.
If you soak the bond joint for a good while with acetone, it will "loosen" the bond, but it's still work to get separation!
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On another note: What's the best way to remove cured 5200? Acetone?
Razor blade.
I don't think acetone will faze it.
If you soak the bond joint for a good while with acetone, it will "loosen" the bond, but it's still work to get separation!
I've just removed an old transducer and the bracket was embedded in the stuff. When I pried it off, it even took some gel coat with it. I'm thinking acetone and a razor blade.
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Heard tell this stuff works well..
When properly inserted.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/Dynamite.jpg)
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Capt. Bob,
What kind of firecracker IS that? Never heard of using such a firecracker on 5200, but I'm a quick learner.....
Nice unit..... :bom:
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That would be the extended length version of the classic M-80.
Common name: "Crack Stick" :bom:
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Maybe I went to a different school but I don't think that is properly inserted! :shock:
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Maybe I went to a different school but I don't think that is properly inserted! :shock:
I believe I could alleviate the improper insertion issue... :mrgreen:
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Maybe I went to a different school but I don't think that is properly inserted! :shock:
I believe I could alleviate the improper insertion issue... :mrgreen:
Meanwhile, back to boat stuff...
Anyone know what brand/model the scupper covers are on the Explorers? Mine are both missing and I'd like to replace whatever was there originally. Looks like there were three or fours screws holding it on.
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Look like this?
http://content.westmarine.com/images/ca ... 593459.jpg (http://content.westmarine.com/images/catalog/large/593459.jpg)
It's what's on my 91 WAC.
.
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Look like this?
http://content.westmarine.com/images/ca ... 593459.jpg (http://content.westmarine.com/images/catalog/large/593459.jpg)
It's what's on my 91 WAC.
.
I'm not sure since they are missing. I think I saw some sort of cover over them in a photo in the Explorer literature that shows up sometimes here.
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I think I saw some sort of cover over them in a photo in the Explorer literature that shows up sometimes here.
Kinda magical :roll:
Looking through the 97 catalog, it appears those are what was used (like the WM link).
While you can't see them on every model because not all have shots taken of the transom, enough appear to confirm that this is the type Aqua used. It's what was used on my 1986 170 and currently on my 1991 210. There certainly other EXers out there who can chime in.
I'm assuming you mean the scuppers that drain your motor well on the Euro Transom. :idea:
Bob C should be able to confirm.
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I'm assuming you mean the scuppers that drain your motor well on the Euro Transom.
No, I mean the scuppers on the deck in the aft corners.
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I'm assuming you mean the scuppers that drain your motor well on the Euro Transom.
No, I mean the scuppers on the deck in the aft corners.
Looks like a half round cover over the drain. :scratch:
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NOW I remember (thanks, CB!). The "covers" were simply half round pieces of 1/4" starboard made in our cabinet shop, we didn't buy them. Easy to replicate with a small piece of 1/4" starboard. Yes, they do sell it in 1/4" thickness...
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Perko makes a chrome-on-brass round drain cover with holes.....you could buy one and cut it in half.....should work and look good too.
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The catalog lists "scupper drains" so I assume they meant the ones in the cockpit too.
Those may be similar to this:
http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/P ... ppers.html (http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Perko_Nylon_Cockpit_Scuppers.html)
Then Bob's installed half round covered it but still allowed water to exit but prevented large items from stopping discharge (think dive gear/chair legs/coolers) because of the channels on the deck. This type of scupper would also reduce the water back flow (without plugs installed) that older CCPs experience when launching and from having too many fat chicks on board. :wink:
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Seabob4
I have a 1996 225 Explorer that I love. It is the perfect boat I have always dreamed of owning. It has been mine for about a year and a half. It currently has a Johnson 200 Ocean Pro. In the next couple of years I want to repower with a 4 stroke.
Do you have any recommendations on size and brand for this boat? I am looking for something that will be a good value.
Thanks!
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I've talked to a guy i met on the water with a 98 225 Explorer and he has a 250hp 4 stroke Yamaha on his and he loves it,it doesn't sit heavy in the stern either,i hope to repower my 97 in a year or so but right know I'm leaning toward a 250 Etec,just because i like the torque of a 2 stroke,and it's a little lighter,just my .02
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I've talked to a guy i met on the water with a 98 225 Explorer and he has a 250hp 4 stroke Yamaha on his and he loves it,it doesn't sit heavy in the stern either,i hope to repower my 97 in a year or so but right know I'm leaning toward a 250 Etec,just because i like the torque of a 2 stroke,and it's a little lighter,just my .02
Good 2 pennys... :thumright:
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I am leaning toward a 4 stoke because I am tired of 2 stoke oil, noise and smoke!
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I am leaning toward a 4 stoke because I am tired of 2 stoke oil, noise and smoke!
Don't count out the Etecs. As quiet as 4-strokes, sips oil, excellent low-end grunt (it'll beat any 4S out of the hole), and light weight. And no, I don't work for BRP!
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And they don't smoke,unlike our motors all fuel and oil is burned,not wasted out the exhaust. :bounce:
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I am leaning toward a 4 stoke because I am tired of 2 stoke oil, noise and smoke!
Don't count out the Etecs. As quiet as 4-strokes, sips oil, excellent low-end grunt (it'll beat any 4S out of the hole), and light weight. And no, I don't work for BRP!
Could you arrange a 150 E-Tec for field-testing in the extreme conditions existing here?...(Alaska)
Thanks.
:D
just PM for shipping info.
Thanks.
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Bob, I have a 1998 245 Osprey Tournament master and I need help with the front console seat. There are no arms to hold the seat up when accessing the center console. Do you no what part numbers or size arms I would need to use for this to work. Also It does not look like it is centered correctly and leaks very bad. Any suggestions.
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gm,
You are talking about the gas struts that hold the seat open. You'll want 40 pounders, Attwood makes them, as well as Springfield. You'll need to hold the seat open at it's, more or less, full travel to see what length you need...
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Bob, I have a 1998 245 Osprey Tournament master and I need help with the front console seat. There are no arms to hold the seat up when accessing the center console. Do you no what part numbers or size arms I would need to use for this to work. Also It does not look like it is centered correctly and leaks very bad. Any suggestions.
GM
I can give you the number later today when I get home. I replaced mine last year, Bob is correct 40 Lb lift, I got them on Ebay, but they are a common strut, something like 27" I think, back to you later if you still need the info.
Marc
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And make sure you get the little clips that secure them to the ball studs. Really sucks when one pops off when your sitting inside the console and smacks you upside the head...been there, done that! :x
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If you can get the part number that would be great. I will look at ebay and try to find them.
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If you can get the part number that would be great. I will look at ebay and try to find them.
GM
My PN on the struts: CS3600-40, Columbia Struts, same as in this Ebay auction.
I believe this is the guy I got mine from on Ebay, I would contact him and make sure you get the correct "ball" size, I want to say ours are 13 MM and this one advertises 10MM is what it comes with. I replaced all my ball mounts to stainless when I replaced the struts, he has it all. You need the 90 degree mounts for the seat attachment, and regular to mount into the fiberglass of the console seat. Best bet, take pics of what you have, send it to him email, and tell him you want stainless.
Marc
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2ea-36-40-Colum ... 4aaf654f2b (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2ea-36-40-Columbia-Strut-Truck-Bed-Top-Cover-Shell-Cap-Spring-Lift-Arm-Rod-40-/320770232107?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4aaf654f2b)
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I HAVE A 85 222-CCP I NEED TO REMOVE THE LOW PROFILE STAINLESS HAND RAIL ARE THEY EASY ENOUGH TO REMOVE AS I WILL HAVE TO MAKE ACCESS FOR 2 AREAS AS I CANT REACH THEM FROM EITHER END ANY INPUT WOULD BE APPRECIATED
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Island,
You might want to post this as a new thread in the general forums. I worked at Wellcraft/Aquasport from '94-'00, so what happened in '85...can't answer that...
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Welcome island,
When you go there to post, please unlock your CAPS LOCK. Thanks!
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WHEN YOU TYPE IN ALL CAPS, THAT IS THE INTERNET EQUIVALENT OF SHOUTING!!!
There, that's better.
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Hey, here's some good news...this post was resurrected.
Fifteen thousand, five hundred and thirty views regarding this gent named Bob C.....
:lol:
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Well now that this thread is active again I have a few questions for Master Seabob on my new to me 245.
Where the heck are the breakers/fuses hiding? I'm guessing they are inside the cabin behind the helm behind a panel or something. Is there a mod to make them easier to get to?
My fishbox has a screened fitting in the lower aft wall that is the pump out and it has what looks like a threaded deck fill fitting that just drains into the bilge. Whats up with that?
Where is the fresh water tank hiding?
Where is or how do I get to the forward bilge pump?
What is under the sink in the cabin? Looks like there could be some wasted space under that thing.
Thats it for now! Thanks!
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I can answer some of these, you have the main breaker in the back that you already know about, the others are on the gauge panel above or below the switches.
That threaded fitting in the fishbox is supposed to have a pump on the other end of it, it may have broke off or they removed it.
The fresh water tank is on the port stringer behind the cabin wall, next to the passenger seat.
You should have a pie plate on the floor just after you step down into the cabin, it's in front of the potty, the FWD pump is in there.
In my boat i don't have the sink, it's just storage and yes alot of wasted space.
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You a funny man, Bruce!
First, unscrew and pull down your gauge/switch panel, a lot lives back there. Scott D is your best source there. You can pull down the close out behind the helm, this will allow you access to everything...but start with the panel on the dash first...
Second, the screened drain in the fishbox attaches to a small, basically bilge or livewell pump on the other side, screwed to the drain fitting...poor man's fishbox pump-out. Pete has the best fix for this "problem"...
Third, the freshwater tank is behind the close out on the port side in the cabin, underneath the W/A. Go back through this thread, I think we talked about that a few years ago...
Fourth, there should be a pie plate in the cabin sole that allows you access to the forward bilge pump. It should be wired so that only the float switch turns the pump on. I don't think there is a switch at the helm to turn it on manually...
Fifth, yes, we call that "dead space". Fab up some stuff to utilize it, and you are that much better off...
Been a long time since any of us have looked at this thread... :thumleft: :thumleft:
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Scott, knew you'd come through!!
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So there you go, Bruce, one N of you, one S. Can't get better than that...
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Thank you Bob, and yes there is a switch for the FWD bilge also :P
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Thank you Bob, and yes there is a switch for the FWD bilge also :P
Dammit, give me an Osprey!!!
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Scott beat me to it.. there is a switch for the fwd bilge pump. My fish box has TWO drains in it. the screened one goes to a pump and that works... the other one just dumps right into the bilge, why I have no idea.
On my dash panel there is a row if what seems like short rubber toggle switch covers... They don't look like fuse covers more like just fillers for unused holes for toggles... or are these fuse covers?
I'm just one of those that has to know where each system is located and how they all work.
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Sounds like someone was playing with the fishbox, even with the pump they hold some water.
Those rubber boots are the breakers, well under them, when they trip they pop out, Bruce I'll get those pics to you tomorrow.
And hey like Bob said, if you have any questions just ask, over the years I've taken apart just about everything on my boat at least once so I know these Explorers well.
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Good thoughts there.
Sincerely,
Ima Lurkin
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I believe Scott has this one under control... :salut:
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I believe Scott has this one under control... :salut:
Finally something I'm good for around here :lol:
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I believe Scott has this one under control... :salut:
Finally something I'm good for around here :lol:
:lol: :lol:
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Scott beat me to it.. there is a switch for the fwd bilge pump. My fish box has TWO drains in it. the screened one goes to a pump and that works... the other one just dumps right into the bilge, why I have no idea.
Here is a guess - unless this post gets deleted, too - its to deal with "the last two inches" left after washing the boat.
If the mystery hole is plugged while the fishbox is being used as a fishbox - that hole, its just, well, there. Then you pump out the fishy water, then wash the boat. Then you're all done and you have the residual wash water left in the fishbox - "the last two inches" - which can get nasty over time (I pour a little bleach in there). So now you unplug the mystery hole and that residual water, clean after just washing, flows down into the bilge and out the bung. Maybe it was PO mod.
Just a guess... :scratch:
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I'll post a pic of the "drain". It looks like a standard deck fitting used to fill fuel, water, whatever. You know the type with the slot in the cap... well just like this...
http://www.go2marine.com/product/63700F/sea-dog-deck-fill-slotted-cap-nylon.html
looks like it has a hose on it.
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Bruce, I would assume the hose simply drains to the bilge, unless the PO tee'd it into one of the cockpit drains...
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unless the PO tee'd it into one of the cockpit drains...
Now that's an idea :idea:
But the bottom of the fishbox is lower then the deck drains so it might not work to well.
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Oh we determined the "drain" dumps into the bilge. I had a bunch of leaves and junk in there along with soapy water from washing. I wanted to test out the fish box pump so I stuck a hoes in there and filled it 3/4 full. I kicked on the pump and it worked good. Wondering where the mystery drain went I turned off the pump and had Amy outside of the boat looking for where the water came from when I cracked the drain. It came out of the transom drain. With a half full fish box I had an opportunity of another test. I pulled the drain cap all the way and then kicked on the aft bilge pump. sure enough the bilge pump pumps water.
I have another question. In the access panel where the battery switch is I saw a string with a label of on if for a chase pull. ( I know what that is for nice of your buddy's to leave that there Bob) Next to that loosely zip tied in there is a black "plug" of some sorts. It's about an inch or so in diameter and about 6" long with a O-ring top and bottom. What the heck is that for?
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Hmmm...plug for the drain in the bottom of the livewell, rather than using a stand pipe?
Snap a pic...
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I have a 16.1 Tournament Cat. Do you have any knowlege of this rare boat? I believe Aquasport only built them for 3 years. 2000-2002. I have a 2001. My question has to do with the water line to the scuppers. My scuppers are about 1/2 inch below the water line when boat is empty and well below with 2 people in it. Boat has a 90HP Johnson on it. I checked the foam as good as I couls, it feels damp, not soaking wet. Very hard to get to the foam at the rear of the boat.
Gary
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Put some ball scuppers on it ( the ones with little ping pong balls in them). That will solve your problem. I believe the foam in the newer boats is closed cell foam and it should not hold water like the old boats. But Mr Bob will know more on that one.
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Put some ball scuppers on it ( the ones with little ping pong balls in them). That will solve your problem. I believe the foam in the newer boats is closed cell foam and it should not hold water like the old boats. But Mr Bob will know more on that one.
The cockpit soles on both the 16 and the 23 Cats were notoriously low, in comparison to the waterline. That was right from the plant. Any weight gain, and they would be even lower. So, that is not good news...
However, as Wing said, you can install the ping-pong ball type scuppers, and, if you can access the cockpit drain hoses, also install the T-H Marin In-line scuppers with the flap in them...http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... CGcQ8wIwAg (http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&gl=us&q=T-H+Marine+In-line+scuppers&gs_upl=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=15990538267943460722&sa=X&ei=w601T8jbBob42gWHl_mJBQ&ved=0CGcQ8wIwAg)
The very first 230 (the 161s bigger sister) I rigged, I said to myself, when hooking up the hoses from the cockpit drains to the t/hulls, "Hmmm, I guess engineering believes water flows uphill..."
Doesn't the 161 have the fuel tank in the console?
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Yes the gas tank is in the center in the center consol. I have installed sump pump check vales into the scupper hose, how ever it does not work well water still comes into the floor. Think I will remove check valves and install ball valves insted.
Gary
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One thing you might consider is getting some plugs to stop up the cockpit drains. Keep them in when seas are calm, not taking any water over the gunnels, pull them when you get up on plane...just a cheap, easy thought...
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Ok here's a few pics for ya. First is of the mystery "plug" that is zip tied inside the large bilge access door.
(Note this was taken before I cleaned in there today)
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j196/wingtime/1998%20245%20Explorer/20120211_144552.jpg)
The following is a pic the mystery drain in the fish box:
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j196/wingtime/1998%20245%20Explorer/20120211_162004.jpg)
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I know I've seen a plug like that before, just can't remember where :scratch:
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Tranducer element plug. The elements in bronze "football" ducers are removable, that allows the hole to be plugged should one decide to do that...
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Tranducer element plug. The elements in bronze "football" ducers are removable, that allows the hole to be plugged should one decide to do that...
Thats why your the King Bob! Your right it has a football ducer on it. I was looking at the bottom of the hull today. So the football part pulls out and leaves a "thru hull" you put that plug into?
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Tranducer element plug. The elements in bronze "football" ducers are removable, that allows the hole to be plugged should one decide to do that...
Thats why your the King Bob! Your right it has a football ducer on it. I was looking at the bottom of the hull today. So the football part pulls out and leaves a "thru hull" you put that plug into?
The center of the football. You'll notice a "ring", like a pull ring, on the top of the tranducer. Although, in all my years, I've never seen it done...
Bruce, sorry if I sounded a bit critical, you have a great boat and you're doing a great job getting her back to her glory! My hat's off to you!! :salut: :salut:
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I assume your talking about inside the hull? I was looking under the boat at the ducer today... it's on the port side of the hull. I noticed it in the bilge too but I didn't really look at it closely... more of a "OK now I know where that is"
I wonder about the compatibility of the ducer down the road when I decide to update the electronics.
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Bruce,
It's an Airmar transducer, whether it a 50/200 or not, I've no clue, but I'm guessing it is. The key will be whether you can plug it into a new unit, in other words, will the plug fit. They do make adapter cables, which will accept the plug from the ducer and have it mate up to whatever unit you decide to go with, Garmin, Furuno, Humminbird, Si-Tex, whatever.
There's a guy on THT, semperfifishing, that is THE absolute guru on electronics, you may want to contact him (or I can for you, if you don't want to get involved over there), what unit is currently installed, head unit wise?
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The ducer is a 50/200. The head unit is a old Furuno Color scope I'm not sure what model off hand. You know the one with a CRT tube in it! It works so I will see how it does out on the water.
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Cool stuff, I still learn something all the time on here, thanks Bob.
Bruce did you get anywhere with the fuel ?
Edit just found your new post.
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The ducer is a 50/200. The head unit is a old Furuno Color scope I'm not sure what model off hand. You know the one with a CRT tube in it! It works so I will see how it does out on the water.
Bruce,
Those old Furuno CRTs are gold, from what I understand. Big and bulky, yes, but get out there and see how it performs...
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The ducer is a 50/200. The head unit is a old Furuno Color scope I'm not sure what model off hand. You know the one with a CRT tube in it! It works so I will see how it does out on the water.
Bruce,
Those old Furuno CRTs are gold, from what I understand. Big and bulky, yes, but get out there and see how it performs...
Mentioned to Bruce when he bought her... that model Furuno colorscope is a fave of the Carolina commercial grouper fleet.
They like it for a reason.
If it ain't broke...don't fix it :thumright:
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OK the fuel tank is clean and empty. And since it started to rain today I had to grab a sender and toss it in there to keep the water out. OK Bob I have three wires, a green, black and red. I think I know what to do with them but since I have an expert at my disposal... well... I'm guessing black is ground, the green bonding? and lastly the sender is red? Here's a pic. The end of the red wire looks like it is attached to something but it is actually is broken off. The black wire has a ring terminal and was under one of the screws holding in the original sender. The green & red have spade connectors on them and were connected to the capsule which is still there.
Thanks!
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j196/wingtime/1998%20245%20Explorer/20120217_174721.jpg)
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Pink goes to the center post, you can actually combine the green and black and terminate to the ground spade you see there. The green bonding wire dissapates static build-up through the ground side of your 12VDC system.
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Perfect. Thanks Bob! You da man! :thumleft:
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Well, I connected the black and green wire together in a spade connector and hooked them up to the ground. I shorted the pink sender wire to the tank and luck would have it the gauge pegged! yay! So I connected it up to the sender and now my fuel gauge works! Piece of cake.
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Moved to general discussion
James H :afro:
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Thanks Sea Bob for all your help,for your previous posts and the ones your fixing todo. I've got a 1998 175 with the same year 90 spl. Would like to plumb it with a raw water wash down. Where can I get the part and I supose put it on the port side of the cc? Thanks!
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Hi Bob. i see you use to work with Aquasports, im in the process of buying a 2005 Aquasport 275 explorer, now i read you went out on 2000, do you know anyone or yourself about this boat, what to watch,any bad reviews or soft spots? Thanks in advance, i will be posting photos. this coming saturday is the surveyors review and seatrial.
john
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John,
PM doubletrouble (John as well) here. He has an EXCELLENT 275 Explorer. He'll help you out...