Classic AquaSport

Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Generic Aquasport Rebuilding Topics => Topic started by: atp11877 on April 20, 2008, 08:47:41 PM

Title: Help I'm sinking
Post by: atp11877 on April 20, 2008, 08:47:41 PM

Hey guys I have a 1987 Aquasport Striper Center Console.   I bought the boat last year it had the original Johnson 175 motor on it.  I had a Suzuki 150 4 stroke and a 9.9 hp kicker installed with dual throttle control at the console. The problem is I never realized how low in the water the rear of the boat would sit with all that motor on it, and of course the salesman said the boat could handle the weight in the rear.  It can handle the weight but when you get a big wake coming from the rear a wave comes over and I get a bit frightened as I see the bilge pumps working frantically to dispose of the added weight.  Is there any way to block the water coming in from the rear, ie. a piece of plexiglass screwed into the transom.  Any advice would be appreciated.

Title:
Post by: RickK on April 21, 2008, 06:32:40 AM

Welcome to our dilemma (oh and welcome aboard :!:) - until the mid to late 90s I think all the transoms were low cut and offered barely any freeboard.  I think I have 8 or so inches of freeboard in the rear. Keeps things real interesting in a following sea.
I suppose you could rig something that you wouldn't be very proud of but would do the job.

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Post by: Bushleaguer on April 21, 2008, 08:05:09 AM

Here's what I did to solve that problem.  Keeps the bulk of the water out, and doesn't look like a complete cob job.

(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/153downrigger_board.jpg)

I made a template out of 1/4" plywood, kept trimming till I got two, symetrical pieces, then traced onto some smoked lexan and copied the screw pattern of the transom cap.  Worked out good.

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Post by: LilRichard on April 21, 2008, 08:19:48 AM

Quote from: "Bushleaguer"

Here's what I did to solve that problem.  Keeps the bulk of the water out, and doesn't look like a complete cob job.

(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/153downrigger_board.jpg)

I made a template out of 1/4" plywood, kept trimming till I got two, symetrical pieces, then traced onto some smoked lexan and copied the screw pattern of the transom cap.  Worked out good.

Getting ready to take her out for a run?

 :shock:

Title:
Post by: Bushleaguer on April 21, 2008, 09:07:55 AM

:lol:

Pic was taken on March 8th in Ohio.  Thankfully, it's finally warming up and it looks like she should be in the water by the first part of May!

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Post by: JimCt on April 22, 2008, 08:57:37 PM

Bilge pumps shouldn't come on at all, regardless of how much water you get on deck.  Deck should be absolutely watertight so that when seas come over the transom cut-out or it rains, water cannot find its way to the bilge.  That's why there are deck drains.   If you do have open areas to the bilge such as ill-fitting inspection plates or deck panels, they should be replaced or rebuilt.  This will save the pumps and possibly the boat itself if you ship some serious green water.

Title: Thanks!
Post by: atp11877 on April 23, 2008, 08:20:58 AM

Hey guys thanks for your input on how to resolve the water coming over the rear of the boat. This site is definitely an excellent resource for Aquasport owners.  Thanks to everyone that replied to my post. Jim CT I also just got done sealing around all the inspection plates and making sure the deck is as watertight as I can get it.  Bushleaguer I am going to try to replicate what you did on the back of your CC.  The  smoked Lexon should actually look pretty cool next to the black Suzuki's on the rear. I will send pics soon after all the work is complete.   :D

Title: follow on help
Post by: kris Craft on April 27, 2008, 11:48:08 AM

I know the feeling.  I have a 75 proline flatback that was redone in 2003.  The rebuilder added a suk df140 and a jackplate.  The boats scupper are now below the water line with just one person at the transom.  Hence when you take a large amount of water on it will not self bail as the scupper are underwater.  Only choice is to put a bunch of weight in the bow or get up on plane.  The scary part is if you are dead in the water the later option is not available.

Any thoughts on how to handle fixing this issue.

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2110/2387620070_07c2eaae7a_m.jpg)

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Post by: Marcq on April 27, 2008, 05:08:49 PM

Quote from: "Bushleaguer"

Here's what I did to solve that problem.  Keeps the bulk of the water out, and doesn't look like a complete cob job.

(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/153downrigger_board.jpg)

I made a template out of 1/4" plywood, kept trimming till I got two, symetrical pieces, then traced onto some smoked lexan and copied the screw pattern of the transom cap.  Worked out good.

Man, that picture is going to make me puke if I look at it to much

Marc..

Title: Re: follow on help
Post by: LilRichard on April 27, 2008, 09:49:02 PM

Quote from: "kris Craft"

I know the feeling.  I have a 75 proline flatback that was redone in 2003.  The rebuilder added a suk df140 and a jackplate.  The boats scupper are now below the water line with just one person at the transom.  Hence when you take a large amount of water on it will not self bail as the scupper are underwater.  Only choice is to put a bunch of weight in the bow or get up on plane.  The scary part is if you are dead in the water the later option is not available.

Any thoughts on how to handle fixing this issue.

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2110/2387620070_07c2eaae7a_m.jpg)

I would close off the scuppers to the rear and drain the deck out the sides of the hull (like a flats boat).  Put some clamshells over the drains.

I have set my FB up so I can do either - depending on how low she ends up sitting.  I'll post pics tomorrow.

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Post by: DOCREED on April 28, 2008, 11:00:00 AM

Man, that pic from Ohio give me a shiver