Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Miscellaneous Aquasport Hull Info => Osprey Models => Topic started by: Bahi on January 16, 2008, 05:42:19 AM
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Hello,
I live in Doha, Qatar, since May 2006. Last month, I found & bought my 1984 (not sure) Aquasport Osprey 170, with a 1997 Yamaha 115 hp. I just posted few pictures. It needed some repairs, and I did my best with the limited budget I have for her, for the time being.
Wonderful boat & we (me, my family & my friends) enjoy fishing trips, but is the engine too big/heavy/powerful for her? Even with max load (myself, 2 adults sitting on the bow & 2 adults in the middle), when we start to move, the bow goes very high. The boat doesn't go flat again till I reach a very high speed & she starts to fly over the waves. Hence, either to go too slow, or too fast! :roll:
Help!!
Hesham Bahi
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115 is probably at the upper range of HP for that hull - I think that might be the max HP? I know Jim here has a 75 on his and it moves fine.
If you're having problems with the bow in the air - you might add some trim tabs.
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Check the rod in the motor bracket that limits down trim. Put that thing in the last hole or even take it out if the nose cone doesn't hit the transom.
That is a LOT of power for a 17'.
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115hp is large for that boat but...... I believe it is rated to 130hp.
My 1986 170 had a 115 Johnson hanging of the back and it flew! :o
The key here is Trim Tabs.
You will be suprised at the difference they will make in achieving a fast plane and allowing you to use less throttle much sooner.
Of course when you get into the real sloppy stuff, that 170 is like riding in a 65 Chevy with four bad tires compared to a trimmed out CCP :D
Good Luck!
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Check the rod in the motor bracket that limits down trim. Put that thing in the last hole or even take it out if the nose cone doesn't hit the transom.
That is a LOT of power for a 17'.
This is not a high quality picture but I hope you can see what John was talking about. This engine is tilted up several degrees which is the problem you may be experiencing. Note the three open holes in the engine tilt bracket. The fourth hole has an "L" pin which prevents the engine from tilting any further down. If the angle engine, relative to the transom, is not closer to parallel when starting off you will get lot of bow rise. Try moving that "L" pin closer to the transom. I assume your engine has a power tilt/trim feature. Make sure it is tilted as far down as possible when accelerating. Once on plane then you can trim the bow up by tilting the engine up a little. If you don't have power tilt/trim then you need to experiment with the pin placement to find a compromise.
But, if you can afford trim tabs those are the best way to control the attitude of your boat.
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w150/cstockton/Aquasport/Picture003.jpg)
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I have a 115 on my 170. The answer here is trim tabs. You will be amazed at the difference. You will be able to plane at low speed and keeping the bow buried the pounding will be minimized. It made all the difference in the world to me.
(of course, you need to be able to lower the engine more than what is shown in the above pic).
Miguel
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MORE:
I just finished looking at all your pics. It looks like your console has been moved towards the stern by a previous owner, as well as the seat. These boats tend to ride stern heavy in normal conditions with a larger engine, but your layout seems to be worsening the problem. Is it just me that noticed or is the angle of the picture playing games with me?
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Pull the pin, move the pin to the front hole, and drop the motor all the way forward. I think you will get what you want. :wink:
See ya on the water! Well, maybe not where you're at...
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LilRichard, John Jones, Capt. Bob, Mad Dog, Miguel & Gone Fission...you are GREAT, guys! Thanks a million for your piece of advice. So, Trim Tabs is the magic solution for my problem. Fridays & Saturdays are our weekends in Qatar. I'm planning to go for a short 5 hours fishing trip, tomorrow morning. I'll try to apply all the information you gave, and get back to you with result, this Saturday.
Mad Dog...the pic is clear enough, and helped me understanding what you all mean.
Miguel...YES, I believe that the consol moved toward the stern by a previous owner, too. I started to have this doubt when I browsed the pics of other 170' on the net. I wasn't sure, and I thought that there are different models. I don't know if Trim Tabs can solve the problem, especially that there is about 229 lbs standing behind the consol pushing the stern down (me)!!!
Thanks again! I'll give you feed back, this Saturday.
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BTW, how do you add images here?!!!
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Welcome aboard Bahi :!: :!:
Our membership is growing worldwide more each day.
I agree with what everyone said, especially about the console being moved aft. Once you move it back forward where it should be your problems will be solved - be sure to check that pin everyone is talking about although I didn't see one in your pics (unless I missed it).
Here is a pic of where my console mounted. It sits over the fuel tank - your tank is probably under the sole.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/681971_Aquasport_170_floor_repair.jpg)
Here (http://www.classicaquasport.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2337) is a link to how to post pics.
I have a 115 on my 170 and have no problem with bow rise unless I have 2 big guys in the aft (me included :wink: ). If I'm by myself she rides level all the way through the rpm range. I don't have tabs.
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Thanks, Rick! The site is wonderful. I visited the States, a while ago. I lived in CT (New Town near Danbury) for about 4 months, and visited many other places, such as NY (New York City & Mount Vernon), NJ (Jersy City), RI (Providence), MA (Boston) & CA (Los Angeles - Santa Monica Beach). Have you ever visited Egypt?
I went to check the boat a couple of hours ago, and I'm quite sure now that the console was moved back; I saw clear traces. I know that the tank is inside the hull under the current console place. The fuel indicator wasn't working, and I had to change the sensor inside the tank. We found the hatch under the console. I don't have enough experience, yet, and I don't know how easy/difficult to remove the console forward. Frankly speaking, I find its current place better because it gives more front room.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/539/26971.jpg)
I didn't find trim tabs in my boat like the ones in Mad Dog's photo above. Anyway, let's wait till after trying some up/down tricks with the engine hydraulic during my upcoming fishing trip, tomorrow morning. Who knows? It may work.
Thanks for the advices, and I'll come back to all of you with result, this Saturday.
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Bahi, what you see on my boat is not trim tabs. The aluminum angle brackets are just for raising the engine up and back from the transom. These are similar to what we call a Jackplate, which allows the captain to move the engine vertically.
Here is a link that shows what trim tabs look like. I couldn't quickly find a picture with them on a boat, but at least this is a start.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... 0&id=92570 (http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|311|292329|314580&id=92570)
Looking forward to reading your update.
BTW, we also like to hear about the fish being caught as well. :D
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Keep in mind that moving the console forward IMPROVES time to plane, not the other way around. Going bow high out of the hole is usually due to:
1. Too much weight in the stern
2. Motor set with trim out versus under the boat
3. Excessive propeller pitch - top speed vs. acceleration - takes forever to get the bow down
Trim tabs will help, but to some extent they mask another problem. Fix whichever of the above is the problem and you may find you don't need trim tabs. Of course, some folks love a boat that runs that way:
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j7/GoneFission/fliver11172006C.jpg)
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
See ya on the water!
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I don't know how easy/difficult to remove the console forward. Frankly speaking, I find its current place better because it gives more front room.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/539/26971.jpg)
Well then you need to use that extra space and fill it up with ballast (read people) because if you don't move the console forward, I too doubt that tabs will help very much.
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I consulted a salesman from Yamaha, who told me that my engine hydraulic system is used for tilt and trim. The two hydraulic pistons set into the engine bracket (the trim part of the system), are used to adjust the angle of the engine when under power. The single hydraulic rod connected higher on the engine (the tilt part of the system) is used to tilt it up clear of the water.
Yesterday, when I kept pushing the hydraulic button to keep the engine tilted all the way down, it was hell of a difference; we had a smooth cruise with much flatter hull. But when I stop pushing the button, the engine tilts itself up, every few second, and the bow goes higher & higher in the air until I tilt it down again! Now, I believe that the problem has been discovered with your great help guys. Thanks!
I called Yamaha Services Manager, today, and explained the situation. He will send someone with me to check my engine trim & tilt system. I'll be busy working the next couple of days, but intend to fix the problem before the end of the week.
I'll come back to you with result by that time. Thanks again, and if you may have any more comments and/or suggestions, I'll be glad to hear from you.
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Sounds like the "trim up" switch is faulty - staying on - shorted.
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Could even be a loose connection or wiring problem. At any rate, this should not be a big deal to fix - good news!
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Engine tilting problem has been just fixed, but -frankly speaking- it didn't help as I expected! The only option I currently have is the console place.
I asked Yamaha Services Manager about who could help. He offered to take me to two fiberglass boat factories not far from Doha City, in order to get quotes. I won't take the boat itself, but some pics of my boat & other boats with the console in its right place. I'll call him beginning of next week to agree on date/time.
I hope it won't cost too much, or I'll be forced to posponed it for a while; I was planning to go on a short 48 hours trip to Egypt, next month, to see my sick father.
Ill keep you posted.
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Try the tabs - they're pretty inexpensive ($400+)
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Bahi, are you handy at all with tools? Moving the console back forward shouldn't be a big deal and not too expensive. If the sole was not replaced after the previous owner moved it aft, there might be some telltale signs of where it used to be. You'll probably need new control cables. The harnesses are probably still intact, just rolled up underneath the console. Have you looked under the console to see what is there?
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Rick...it doesn't look a big deal to move the console by myself. The problem is that I never owned a boat before, and have no experience. I'm still discovering each part of her.
Yes, the traces of the console's orginal place exist, but I'm not sure that I can replace/move all cables/wires (control, navigation lights, fuel indicator..etc). Moreover, I don't know with what should I fill the sole old holes after moving the console.
It's like a kid's 1st school day for me!
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Bahi, We all know how you feel. Most of the members of this forum never worked with boat building materials until we found this site and/or http://forums.bateau2.com/ (http://forums.bateau2.com/). As you have seen already there is plenty of experienced members now who are willing to walk you through your project. The best way to make that happen is posting lots of pictures from lots of angles so we can see what you see. As far as materials there must be ample suppliers where you are. I don't know anything about your import rules, but anything you need you can order over the net.
This can be a very satisfying experience if you want.
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Yup, we're here for you man :farao:
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I would bet that whomever moved the console back did not change the conrol cables - just pushed them into the bilge...
Moving the console back up is no big deal. Sealing the screw holes is also pretty easy. I'm sure the Classic Aquasport team could help you through it if you want to take the project on...
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Mad, Rick & John,
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/539/26971.jpg)
OK, let's give it a try! I'm planning to go for another short 5hrs fishing trip, tomorrow at 0600hrs (wanna join me?!). I'll try to get you clear shots from all possible angles, then we can discuss the possibilities, this Saturday. Thanks for trying to help.
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I can see a couple good things already:
1) the fuel tank is under the sole so we don't have to mess with that
2) I see that cables are bundled and zip tied with extra cable
3) I can see the trough where the control cables and wires go and the console is still on top of that with the trough opening under the console
We just need to see the control cables and I bet they're fine and nothing will have to be done to them.
Looks like an easy move. :D
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/2697A.jpg)
The boat wasn't clean after yesterday's fishing trip. I hope the photos would be clear enough. Anyway, I just uploaded about 20 of those photos. I still have many others, but I feel that they would be just duplicates.
What do you think?
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Well from what I can see....
1. The console has been moved back. It need to be moved forward to its original (by design) position.
2. I really can't tell but it sure looks like you have enough control cable to reposition the console.
3. I'd also move the "seat" forward and place the battery under the console.
I have a picture of my old 170 with a 115hp Johnson hanging off the back in the photo section. Look at the stern and you can see the scuppers just above the water line. that is what you want yours to look like.
Good Luck
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Looks like they didn't cut any wires or cables, just moved the console and seat back. :D
I would move it back forward and no, there won't be much room between it and the casting deck - that's just how a 170 is - but it will be balanced. I would use 5200 or 4000 and seal the holes that are left from the current install.
Ditto on what Bob said about mounting the battery in the console - you'll need an on-off switch if you don't have one.
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Qatar? Heck, that looks like Florida in that photo.
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PLAN SUMMARY
A) The fuel tank is under the sole. (I won't bother moving it with the console)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/2697211.jpg)
B) Extra control cable & wires available. (I'll organize them a little bit by myself, or with the help of an electrician, in case I move the battery to under the console)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/269713.jpg)
C) It's easy to find the traces of the console's original place. (I'll remove it forward & seal the current holes myself)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/26979-B.jpg)
D) Seat to be moved forward with the console. (It's easy & I'll do it myself, and seal the current holes)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/269718.jpg)
E) Battery to be installed under the console, with an on/off switch. (I think that I'll need the help of an electrician from Yamaha to move cables & instal switch)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/269720.jpg)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/269717.jpg)
Please advise in case of any comments, or I missed something.
Thanks!
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Sounds like a plan.
The first thing I would do is mix some soap, bleach and water together in a bucket and scrub her down real good so you can see what, if anything, is hidden and also you'll have the final mounting position nice and clean before you screw it down.
Make sure you coat all the mounting screws with 5200 (or 4000) that you fasten the console/seat down with. Remember that it takes 7 days for 5200 to really harden. You might get the urge to 5200 the console/seat down, but I wouldn't. Be sure to check the wood that the seat is resting on and replace if it looks like it needs it while you've got it out.
As for moving the battery under the console - I would do it in a heartbeat. If I ever tear the floor out of my 170 again I'll put a new fuel tank under the sole (mine's above the sole now) and move everything I have in the back (2 batteries and a hydraulic pump) to under the console - frees up needed room in the aft of the boat. plus balances the boat more.
As for the battery cables, I see them currently coming through the back of the seat. I would mount the on/off switch in the back of the boat either on the transom or the side. That means that you would change the end on the red cable and put a ring clamp on it and connect to the "On" side of the switch. 1) I would cut the end off the black cable and matching the guage, get another peice of black battery cable long enough to go through the trough and reach the farthest corner of the console and I would splice it in to the existing OR better yet, 2) you could trace it back into the motor, find out which lug it connects to (starter?) and replace the entire thing with a new cable long enough to get to the farthest corner of the console. (2nd option is best) Also, you'll need a red battery cable long enough to get to the "Off" side of the switch and to the farthest corner of the console with a ring clamp on both ends. None of this is hard - you can handle this and save some money too :D
Now, pick a place under the console to mount the "battery box" (yup, you should have one of those) and leave enough room to mount some strapping hardware to the deck. Install the box, add the battery, install the cables to the On/off switch, add fused wires to your power distribution panel under the console for all your electronics (and you could/should put another small On/off switch in between the panel and battery so you can easily disconnect everything from the battery) and you're done. If I missed anything, one of our members will add to this.
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Rick has laid out a nice plan. :wink:
Regarding 5200 vs. 4000, use 5200 for permanent or super-sealing applications and 4000 for less permanent or if you think you would want to remove it. So use 5200 to fill the old screw holes and to seal the center deck panel deck over the fuel tank, but use 4000 between the deck and the console and between the deck and the seat. You may want to remove the seat or console in the future - hard to do when it's glued solid with 5200. :?
Run the new/extended battery cables under the deck and up under the console through the same holes as the engine control cables - that gets them out of the way and cleans up the deck a bit. If you are now using a group 24 battery, this is a good time to move up to a group 27 or group 31 battery - since you will need to buy a covered battery box anyway. Group 27 batteries have substantially more capacity than 24s, and 31s have even more than 27s. Even if you stick with the group 24 battery, get a group 27 or 31 battery box with the plastic divider that allows you to put a group 24 in - you can then upgrade to a 27 or 31 later. :idea:
Regarding cleaning - it's a great time to give the deck a good cleaning when you have the console and seat loose - you can get to areas that will not be accessible when it is all fastened back down. The caulk will also stick and seal better to a clean surface.
Don't be afraid to take this project on - you can do it! Afterwards you will have a boat that runs better and you will be a better Captain because you know more about the boat and how she is made. Good luck and send some progress pictures as you do it - we're with you man!
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I believe I'll take the project; I can't resist after the way you tried to help me. Thanks guys!
I went this morning to 4 marine equipment shops to check for materials availability. Two of them never heard about the word sealant!!! One of the other two had a white German marine (above & under water line) anti-fungus silicone ($10.96/10 OZ tube). The fourth had normal silicone tubes, a local made white paste used by fishermen, and only one tube of a US marine sealant ($13.70/10 OZ tube) with no number (i.e. 5200 or 4000) on it.
I know 4 other shops in Doha. I'll check them all, tonight. If I don't find the 3M 5200, I'll have to order it from the net. BTW, how many tubes should I get? I believe 2-3 tubes would be enough.
In regards to the battery, It's my first time to hear about the groups you mentioned! All what I know is that the battery I have is a maintance free Exide 80D26L-MF (12 Vol / 80 Amp-Hour).
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/2697PICT0080.JPG)
Could you clarify, pls? It seems that I still need to learn many things from you.
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One tube (caulk gun size) will be more than enough for this job. If you don't have a caulk gun, smaller tubes will work fine. If you can't find 3M 5200 you can also use "Boat Life" sealant. It will work well also.
Remember, the 3M seals and "glues". It will make it harder to remove at a later date. It will however come off but it takes some doing.
As Rick stated, your first step is to clean as much as you can,then move the console.
Good Luck and keep us posted. :)
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It looks like you have a group 26 - similar, but a little smaller than a group 24 that's pretty much a standard battery. If it is working well and you are not running much in the way of electrical loads or electronics, stick with it. Your battery is also maintenacne-free, so you do not have to add water - another good feature. If you want to replace the battery, I would suggest going up to a 27 or 31. Batteries come in all different sizes. Many have "group" sizes, which is based upon the physical size and terminal placement - size relates also to capacity. Typical marine group codes are group 24, 27, and 31. Industrial batteries are usually designated by a part number such as "FS" for floor sweeper, or "GC" for golf cart. Many batteries follow no particular code, and are just manufacturers part numbers. Other standard size codes are 4D & 8D, large industrial batteries, commonly used in solar electric systems.
Some common battery size codes used are: (ratings are approximate)
Group 26 (I think this is yours): 65-80 Amp hours 12 volts
Group 24: 70-85 Amp hours 12 volts
Group 27: 85-105 Amp hours 12 volts
Group 31: 95-125 Amp hours 12 volts
These are used in large boats, but usually not in smaller vessels:
4-D: 180-215 Amp hours 12 volts
8-D: 225-255 Amp hours 12 volts
Golf cart & T-105: 180 to 220 Amp hours 6 volts
L-16: 340 to 415 Amp hours 6 volts
The Group 27 battery is a nice mix of size, weight, and capacity. It is a good choice if replacing a Group 24, as most Group 27 batteries have 105 Amp hour capacity - that'sa 25% increase over a Group 24. :wink: I see you now have an Exide battery. Here is a link to their web site, so you can get more info:
http://www.exide.com/products/trans/na/recreation.html (http://www.exide.com/products/trans/na/recreation.html)
Exide specs are here:
http://www.exide.com/pdf/exide_battery_specs.pdf (http://www.exide.com/pdf/exide_battery_specs.pdf)
Battery Box:
You want a battery box with a cover - not just a tray. The yacht building code (AYBC) requires a cover - the cover protects the battery from having tools or other things dropped on it and shorting the terminals - you don't want that! :shock: Here are some examples of good battery boxes on eBay - maybe somone would ship one to you:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Attwood- ... enameZWDVW (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Attwood-Group-27-Battery-Box_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ50442QQihZ009QQitemZ190192699005QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Group-24-Series-Mar ... dZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.com/Group-24-Series-Marine-Battery-Box_W0QQitemZ320075096274QQihZ011QQcategoryZ15272QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQtrksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Group-27-Series-Mar ... dZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.com/Group-27-Series-Marine-Battery-Box-Large_W0QQitemZ320075096345QQihZ011QQcategoryZ15272QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQtrksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem)
Here's some info on batteries in general:
http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm (http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm)
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... yTypes.htm (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/westadvisor/10001/-1/10001/BatteryTypes.htm)
I hope the helps - good luck!
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Last night, I checked all the other 4 marine shops I know. The final results are:
- There are no 3M 5200/4000 in Qatar
- The Qatari Fishermen use a local made white paste for this job (best price $5.50/pack)
- A couple of shops have "Wurth" anti fungus under & above water line German marine silicone (best price $3.30/10 Fl. Oz. cartrige) http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/left ... mical.html (http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/leftnavi/products/chemical/chemical.html)
- One shop has a US made Elastomeric Marine Sealant called "Sudbury" & manufactured by a company called "rule" (best price $13.70/10 Fl.Oz. cartrige) http://www.sudburyboatcare.com/products ... /index.htm (http://www.sudburyboatcare.com/products/boat_care_products/elastomeric_sealant_white_10_fl_oz_cartridge_300/iid_579/index.htm)
I believe I would use "Wurth" between the deck & seat/console, while "Sudbury" for quoting mounting screws & filling old screw holes. What do you suggest?
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I think the Wurth would be your best choice for all of it. I think the Sudbury is a polysulfide caulk that hardens more than the Wurth. Sudbury is sandable and paintable, but I think the Silicone-based Wurth would be a better choice for your needs. You could probably do the whole job with one 10 oz. tube of the silicone Wurth.
Use acetone or alcohol to clean up any of the Wurth you get in the wrong places. To fill the holes in the deck, squirt some caulk through the hole, then wipe off the top with a finger dipped in alcohol or acetone. That should give you a nice, waterproof seal on the hole.
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OK, I'll go for this project starting from Friday. As per the weather forecast, we have force 6-7 Bft this Friday, and force 4-6 Bft for the rest of the week. I'll try to finish my project within this bad weather time.
On Friday, I will WASH the boat, move the console forward, seal the current holes, and take the seat out for repair/repaint. While repairing/repainting the seat, I'll try to make a new door for the console in order to buy a battery box & move the battery under the console.
I'm not sure yet about moving the battery cable by myself, but I'll study the possibility while working on moving the console & the seat.
I'll send you some pics later. Wish me luck on my 1st project.
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I'm not sure yet about moving the battery cable by myself, but I'll study the possibility while working on moving the console & the seat.
I'll send you some pics later. Wish me luck on my 1st project.
This is when you pray someone left a chase line... 8)
Best of luck.
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You don't need luck - you'll be fine. 8)
The trough goes from the back of the boat to the console on the starboard side of the boat and can be lifted out (probably screwed down) and then you have no problems running the new cables.
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Thanks guys for all the great help! I hope to succeed, not for me, but for you after all the advices you gave me.
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Looks like you are headed the rigth way. As I told you on page 1, you will feel a big difference when the console is moved forward, and hopefully, you add the trim tabs.
One thing to watch out for: I once moved my console a couple of inches forward. When installing the screws on the aft side of the console, watch out and don't drill thru the gas tank which is sitting right below it!.
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Too late, Miguel! :shock: I already moved the console & fixed it in its original place :cry: , but I didn't make any holes in the gas tank. Thanks for the piece of advice! :)
I really enjoy the little project to the extand that I can't stop doing other things I discover in my way. :idea: The only thing I'm not enjoying is the amount of money I'm spending these days (approx. $250 spent & $100 expected)! :?
I WASHED HER VERY WELL. The moving console job is done, and the old holes were sealed. I got a new long battery cable, moved the battery to under the console, and re-sealed the cables duct, then re-organized the wires/cables. I fixed the seat, and made a new door for the console. I removed the old white paint from the seat wood, and Im currently re-painting it, as well as the new door (natural wood color; rosewood). I got four new rod holders, and two new small stainless steel side rails, to be fixed all, today. A complete bow rail will cost me not less than $400.
I'll send you some pics when I'm done. 8)
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Sounds like you've been a busy guy - just seemed hard before you started didn't it. That's how we all felt on our first project too.
Is the console nice and tight now? That is where everyone hangs onto when underway so make sure it's real secure.
Let us know how she runs now that everything is moved forward.
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Yes, Rick, it's really a great experience. I followed all the advices, and I'm happy with the results, so far. I even think of taking the bow rail as my next project. I started to study the possibility & cost, but I'll postpond it for a while, till I get some extra money. The total cost would be arround $200, while to buy one won't be less than the double.
Let me finish with my current 1st project, and I'll post some pics.
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BEFORE:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/2697B.jpg)
AFTER:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/269741.JPG)
I successfully completed my 1st project; console & seat were moved forward to their original places, battery cables were replaced by longer one (16 feet), battery was moved from under the seat to under the console, new wooden door was made for the console, seat woods were fixed, and 4 new rod holders & 2 new short side rails were added.
I took tons of photos in the sea while trying her, and during the project. Last Friday, while going on a fishing trip, we stopped by the Banana Island on our way back. My digital camera fall in the water & I lost all photos. Sorry guys! The above photo was taken with the cell phone camera. I uploaded some other photos, too.
The boat is great and she goes on plane in no time. The speed & balance are great. It's like if I have a new boat!!!
Thanks for all your help, and I promise to upload better photos while on action, as soon as I get a new digital camera.
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AFTER:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/269741.JPG)
I successfully completed my 1st project; console & seat were moved forward to their original places, battery cables were replaced by longer one (5 feet), battery was moved from under the seat to under the console, new wooden door was made for the console, seat woods were fixed, and 4 new rod holders & 2 new short side rails were added.
I took tons of photos in the sea while trying her, and during the project. Last Friday, while going on a fishing trip, we stopped by the Banana Island on our way back. My digital camera fall in the water & I lost all photos. Sorry guys! The above photo was taken with the cell phone camera. I uploaded some other photos, too.
The boat is great and she goes on plane in no time. The speed & balance are great. It's like if I have a new boat!!!
Hi Bahi, sorry to hear about your camera - I know we all like to see action photos, but that is the one reason I'm leary of carrying mine when I'm fishing - slippery/slimy fingers and the camera don't mix.
So the boat runs nice and level now - good for you. With that 115 on her, you should get right around 40mph out of her when trimmed out just right.
Sounds like you have her in fishing ready shape now. Are the fish running there now? Looks like it's warm although I hear there's unusual weather there now.
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That sucks about the camera, and great about about the boat. Send us some pictures of the fish!
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When we mention "fishing" in Qatar, we talk mainly about groupers, spangled emperors, snappers & sweet lips. I'll upload some pics, as soon as I get a new camera.
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Bahi, sorry about the camera. Bad enough to loose the camera worse to loose the files.
Here is a camera I bought just for my boating and fishing. Added a float in case it drops over board but is water tight to 75 feet.
http://www.sealife-cameras.com/cameras/ecoshot.html (http://www.sealife-cameras.com/cameras/ecoshot.html)
Cost about $200, plus you need to buy a 1 gig SanDisk $45.
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Wal-Mart (!) sells a digital camera in a clear waterproof case with a USB connector for about $20. Only VGA (640 x 480) resolution, but it works and ain't no big deal if you drop it overboard (it floats).
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Bahi,
Great boat! Nice job on your project.I'm amazed and proud that we can help boaters on the other side of the world.If people worried more about there boats and less about politics the world would be a better place.Keep up the great work! :D :D :D
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Thanks, Pete! U R 100% right.
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I put Lenco tabs on my 17.5 and the difference is like night and day. Makes it ride real nice and gets up on plane a lot faster in shallower waters.
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m72/vettert/IMG_0321.jpg)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m72/vettert/IMG_0323.jpg)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m72/vettert/IMG_0144-1.jpg)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m72/vettert/BOAT-TRAILER2007.jpg)
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What a nice boat! Yes, they may help, but I don't need them anymore. She is doing great now without them, and goes on plane in no time. BTW, how much did you pay for them?
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$350.00 installed. And, thank you. I love it.
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Rick & Alex...As promised, I just uploaded few photos of the fish we got today.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/269737.jpg)
Yesterday, I took my family on a boating trip to Al-Safeleya Island. If you are interested, I can uploaded some photos of the island, too.
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Thanks for sharing the pics with us. Looks like you caught enough fish to feed the family - ranging from catfish to shark?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/2697Devil_Fish-1.JPG)
This Devilfish looks like a NASTY fish :shock:
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Ya, Rick, it was a real good catch. We were 5 friends with 2 boats, and we got lots of emperors & some groupers, too.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/269797.jpg)
BTW, it's not me who found this devil fish. They discovered it in Spain, as I commented on the photo. ;o)
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Bahi -
How will you, traditionally, prepare those fish to eat? Fry? Saute'? Bake?
How about the catfish?
Are there any size/bag limits in your local waters?
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Hello Undertow2, (what's your name?!)
;o)
If I'll talk about tradional cooking, I have to mention first that I'm Egyptian living in Qatar. I don't know about the Qatari tradional cuisine, but I'll tell you about how we cook them in Egypt. In general, we bake the big size fish in the oven with fresh vegetables, such as potatos & tomatos, but make sure to add lots on onion & green/chilli peppers. For the small size fish, they are more tasty if fried. We may cut the big size fish with bones/filleted & fry them, too. In any case, if you will cook the whole fish, stuff them with a mix of salt, white/black/chilli pepper (chilli pepper always optional), dry & fresh parsley, and a lot of ground cumin & garlic.
Below, you will find two great detailed Egyptian recipes for both medium & big size fish.
1st RECIPE
Ingredients:
2 garlic cloves
1/4 cup fresh coriander leaves
1/2 table spoon ground cumin
1/4 cup parsley leaves
Salt and black/white/chilli pepper to taste
1/4 cup olive oil
1 whole fish, filleted
4 cups chopped vegetable mixture: potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, red capsicum, green capsicum
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup pitted green olives
1 teaspoon ground dried coriander
2 bay leaves
1 table spoon fresh grated ginger
1/2 cup bread crumbs
1/2 table spoon freshly ground black pepper
Direction:
Combine the garlic cloves, fresh coriander leaves, fresh parsley leaves, ground cumin, salt and pepper and olive oil in a food processor and mix until blended.
Rinse the fish then season with salt and pepper.
Place the chopped vegetables in a large pot, add water and cook over a medium heat.
When the vegetables begin to cook remove from the burner and spoon the mixture into a baking dish. Add the bay leaves and place the fish on top.
Mix the remaining olive oil, coriander, ginger, salt and pepper and bread crumbs, and spread over the fish covering it completely, and place in the oven to bake. The length of time it will take to bake will depend upon the size of the fish.
Garnish with the green olives just before serving.
2nd RECIPE
Ingredients:
1-Seasoning
Garlic
Green bay leaves
Green parsley
Salt and pepper
Olive oil
Lemon juice
Chilli pepper
2-Big fish
Big fish slices
Salt and pepper
Olive oil
3-Butter Sauce
Fish seasoning
Cold butter cut in small pieces
Lemon juice
Direction:
1-Seasoning
• Chop garlic, bay leaves, parsley and coarse chilli pepper.
• Mix with olive oil and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper and mix well.
2-Big fish
• Season fish with salt and pepper.
• Heat oil and add fish pieces. Fry until their color is changed, then turn on the other side and fry.
• Pour some of the seasoning mixture on it .Set aside for a while.
• Remove from heat .Put aside in the serving dish.
3-Butter Sauce
• Put the rest of the seasoning mixture in the same frying pan of fish.
• Add cold butter and lemon juice .Mix until butter melts.
• Remove from heat when it is hot .Pour sauce on tuna or serve next to it.
Try them & tell me your opinin.
In regards to the bag/size limits in Qatar, yes they do exist, but, frankly speaking, I have no idea about the limits. I asked same question to a professional fisherman I know, and he confirmed the same, but didn't tell me about the limits.
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As for the Devil Fish - I wonder how you get it off your hook if you catch one - SHOTGUN ? :D
Are your "emperor" fish like a perch?
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With all due respect, it looks like a lot of grunt to me :wink:
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Rick...I don't know the perch, but what we get here is the Spangled Emperor (Lethrinus nebulosus), and they call it locally "Shaari". The average weight of this fish is approx. 4 lbs. I searched the net for perch photos, and the results were more like the grouper we have. If you wanna see a clear photo of the emperor, check this link http://www.scuba-equipment-usa.com/mari ... _nebulosus (http://www.scuba-equipment-usa.com/marine/JAN05/Spangled_Emperor(Lethrinus_nebulosus)).html
Capt. Bob...I know that they are a little complicated, but I assure you that you won't regret in case you tried these recipes. Moreover, please consider this as an "Official Invitation" to visit us, either in Qatar or in Egypt (in August only), and we will prepare you delicious plates of seafoods. BTW, I like the word Captain, because my father is an x-Navy Admiral. ;o)
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Marc...this photo is clearer
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/2697101.jpg)
the middle fish are the grouper we have, and the fish on both sides are the emperor (silver with little red).
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Capt. Bahi,
By grunt, I mean the fish, not the recipe.
Depending on where you "drop your hook" grunt are also known as "Silver Snapper" or "Key West pork chops" :o
Your Emperor fish reminds me of a grunt.
Also, taking "grouper" that size in the Gulf o' Mexico could end up costing you a very high "price per pound", but at least there are no worms. :wink:
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Rick...I don't know the perch, but what we get here is the Spangled Emperor (Lethrinus nebulosus), and they call it locally "Shaari".
Ahhh, I did a search on "emperor" and "emperor fish" and it kept coming back with something about "perch" - that's why I mentioned perch. Now that you add "Spangled", and I see the pics, I agree with Bob that they look like a fish we know as a "grunt".
Also, Bobs response about being a high price per pound means that those would be undersize here and if you're caught with them by the authorities, it could result in a stiff fine, possible confiscation of your boat, trailer, truck - whatever they can get away with.
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OK, I understand now. There are so many species, and we usually use our countries local names. I can't go to a fish shop asking for fish by the English names. I have to say "Hamoor" in Qatar/"Wa'ar" in Egypt for the Grouper. :?
Yes, I know that many of the fish are small, but you can't pick the big ones while fishing with rode & reel. Frankly speaking, I can't return a good fish back to the sea, unless it is toooooooooooooo small. :oops:
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Capt. Bob & Rick...Check the topic "Qatari fishermen's trip" under "Chum"