Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Engines & engine woes => Topic started by: bluedolphin on May 03, 2007, 05:29:51 PM
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Hi, all.
1972 22-2 Aquasport. 1992 Mercury V6 200 hp.
Yesterday, I fired her up, and it will rev all the way up to 5000 rpm.
However, when I try to advance the throttle in gear, it sounds labored, and will not go past 1500 rpm. I can advance the throttle past 1500 rpm, but the boat does not go any faster, and the engine seems to want to sputter and stall. There is nothing wrapped around the prop, and the prop spins easily. Someone told me check the water/fuel filter and drain any water, if any. There was no water in the filter. It's one of those with a see-through bowl at the bottom. Anything else I can check? Thanks.
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When I test drove my boat I had it out about 20 minutes and all of a sudden the motor throttled down and wouldn't run more than 2500rpm - ended up being a oil level sensor on the motor - seems the computer board went bad in the motor and didn't tell the remote oil tank to pump oil, so the on-motor tank ran low and that caused it to throttle down to protect itself. It stays under 2500 to protect itself.
Might want to check that?
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Thanks, Rickk. I mix oil manually, I don't have an oil reservoir. Is it possible my fuel/oil mixture is not right? I use 50:1 which is the recommended ratio.
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Ok, so that's not it - the mixture is correct. Maybe browse the marine doctor's (http://www.themarinedoctor.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl) site and see if the answer is there or post the same question to him.
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Sounds like it could be a faulty switchbox. There are two and each powers 3 cylinders. You will probably need to take it somewhere where they have one of the Mercury ignition testers to be sure. The Mercury ignition is hard to troubleshoot without the factory tester.
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Thanks, Rickk and Cap'n John!
I will have the switchbox checked hopefully by the weekend so I can use the boat for the Air and Sea Show.
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Same thing is happening with my 4 strroke. I checked to see if the bulb was okay and it was, then I pulled the plug cables one at a time while running. Only noticed 1 cylinder firing. However, I've been told that some motors only use one cylinder until you raise the rpms. So i put the plugs one at a time next to the block to see if I was getting a spark. Two of the plugs don't spark so I think I have a bad power pack like the guy said above. Time to take it to a real mechanic and let him hook it to his diagnostics to see.
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Same thing is happening with my 4 strroke. I checked to see if the bulb was okay and it was, then I pulled the plug cables one at a time while running. Only noticed 1 cylinder firing. However, I've been told that some motors only use one cylinder until you raise the rpms. So i put the plugs one at a time next to the block to see if I was getting a spark. Two of the plugs don't spark so I think I have a bad power pack like the guy said above. Time to take it to a real mechanic and let him hook it to his diagnostics to see.
I thought that motor wasn't that old?
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Finally got the mechanic to check the boat out two days ago (Saturday the 12th). I was not home but he knows where I leave the key. Anyway, he called me and said the boat ran fine, got it up to 4000 rpm no problem. I was ecstatic of course, because I did not have to spend any more $'s. But wait, I got home and I took the boat out to see for myself. It worked great for about 15 minutes, and then the trouble started all over again. Then the boat stalled, and I could not re-start. Fortunately, I was just out on the river with seawalls all over the place, so I drifted and managed to snag one of the dock cleats on one of the houses. Called the mechanic, he drove to the house where I was tied up to the dock. He managed to start the boat, and he checked the carburetor operation with the cowl off. He says that the carbs are flooding and need to be overhauled. There was a gas sheen on the water trailing the boat as we ran it. I told him about the switch box but he seems sure that the carbs are the culprit. Stay tuned. He will have the carbs back on the boat before the next weekend.
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I'd vote for carb problems; possibly weepy float valve(s) or a sunk float. Rebuilds every few years are a fact of life with outboards.
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I may have posted this before but it was the bane of living with the 1987 150hp BlackMax I had for 19 years. I will share my experience with you and this might be long.
I would have the same symptoms as you did, especially the first time it ever happened. The motor would rev fine out of gear but once in gear it would only go up to a certain rpm. Sometimes it would "catch" and run like it was fine then go back to a 1,500 rpm or lower and not be able to get back up again. Pull it out of gear and it would rev fine.
We would go through the Clymer/Hynes and check everything until we found out what it was each and everytime and not once in the 19 years did we ever have to do anything to the carbs and we would be winterizing this engine every season from October/Nov. - May or June. Just like when working on dirtbikes/2 strokes, they always say to check the carbs last. I can imagine that just because I never had a single issue and never even touched or looked at the carburetors on my 150 for 19 years doesn't mean you might not have anything wrong with yours. At least with dirtbikes, they say if it ran fine and doesn't anymore, don't start playing with jets and such because a single carburetor does not just go out of adjustment, now with 6 something could but who knows.
On these Mercury's and I suspect like every outboard motor with CDI ignition, the stator lives under the flywheel. The cooling systems on these engines was not all that great back then, at least I know it wasn't on my 87 as it had no way to flush and we kept the boat on a dock for at least 5 months out of the year and never flushed it save for running the motor to winterize it in the fall and start it in the spring, and all the heat generated by the block radiates up and as the stator lives under the flywheel, no matter what Mercury tried to do to increase the size of the laminations/windings on the stator which I was told by the parts people that mercury did to try and cure the problem, the stator would, in time, fry itself. It is why when the engine is cold it will run fine, once it heats up it acts up eventually to the point where we would be stranded and the engine would do like it is doing to you or just not start until it cooled down. Several times when our headaches began in the early 90's we would get towed in after out at sea we would change the fuel filter and the plugs and still not get the motor started, then we would tie up after a 1-2 hour tow and the motor would fire up and run fine until it got hot then it would act up again, it would drive me/us crazy back then.
I got so good that I always carried a new/spare stator $160, the flywheel puller, the socket to get the flywheel nut off, the allen wrench to get the stator off, the philips screwdriver to get the switchboxes apart and the 8or10mm socket to get the wires off the switchboxes. I had the process down so well I could be in 3-5 foot seas or in a rip or in the fog at night with no light and be able to swap out that Gosh Darned stator. It was never a matter of if, it was when it would go. I could put a new waterpump iand thermostats in every season, monitor the engine temp and the stator would go, there was nothing I nor Mercury could do to stop the stator from frying. Oftentimes I would do a preventative swap once the engine would not start warm/hot on the first try and it would be time to swap the stator out.
The first time we had to deal with the problem and I finally traced it to the stator using the book and finding out that no one, even the Mercury guys, could test the switchboxes, I replaced the stator, the coils and the switchboxes just to be safe, it was around $600 to do that but then it was good for the next 10 years or so. Use the manual and check the stator leads, if any of the readings are not within spec, then you will have to replace it. Once you have an ohmeter and know which leads to touch what to it is easy. The switchboxes also live on the side of the engine block but I never had an issue with mine although I had heard that they go too but also spoke to Mercury and not a single dealer had the thing that could test them and this was back in the early 90's when the engine was only about 5-6 years old, I can imagine now that unless a dealer is good, they might not know what you are talking about, then again, here in Falmouth MA where there are not a whole lot of boats like there are in FL, we just don't have what FL has for dealers.
Anyhow, it might not be your stator but after seeing so many motors of my vintage in the shop way back in those days, and each and every one of them back in there for stator replacement, I surely and unfortunately had my experience with them. It could be fuel as well. I just share what I know and what would happen to me on a regular 3-4 year cycle. With all the running changes Mercury had on their motors back then, gee, the book I had had running model year changes in the engines every 6 months to try and "improve or modify" something, I memorized my serial number from needing it to get parts because 87 could have been 86 1/2 or 87 1/2, it was crazy back then with all the changes within model years because there was not CAD/Computer Aided Design like we have now where they could test things better or design things, they just did things and WE tested them to see if it would work or not.
I will not miss changing out that stator. I laugh inside when I look at the flywheel puller we have on the shelf and think 'remember when' . . .
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I thought that motor wasn't that old?
2003 and I have no idea what's wrong. Plan on collecting some donations to get her fixed.
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First, I want to thank everyone for their help and suggestions. ben87, I think you hit the nail on the head. The mechanic did start with the carbs - overhauled them. No luck, then he said the stator is fried - $400 later - well, he says one side or the other is not working. It ended up being a switch box that he had to replace. If I had to guess, the stator "PROBABLY" needed replacing, like ben87 said. Someone also said "switchbox" and I told my mechanic to maybe check that. He said carb overhaul is a maintenance issue, anyway, so he did that first. Total bill with labor was $1,087. I was just thinking if he started with the switchbox, maybe I did not have to go replacing the stator. I don't know. The good thing - she's running better than before. Thanks again to everyone.
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Buy one on eBay and keep it - they are as much as $250 from the dealer:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Quicksil ... enameZWDVW (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Quicksilver-Mercury-Mercruiser-switchbox-332-7778A12_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ31284QQihZ008QQitemZ180118951279QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)
See ya on the water!
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If you can't find one try these guys. Bought power pack for last motor and the price was great.
http://www.outboardignition.com/mandmse ... l=47&val=9 (http://www.outboardignition.com/mandmsearch.asp?cat=itemname&cval=5&hval=47&val=9)
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If you can't find one try these guys. Bought power pack for last motor and the price was great.
http://www.outboardignition.com/mandmse ... l=47&val=9 (http://www.outboardignition.com/mandmsearch.asp?cat=itemname&cval=5&hval=47&val=9)
This is the kind of stuff that we need to add to the resources forum - jdupree, can you post the home URL of the ignition site please. thx
(I could do it but I'd like you guys to start using the Resources section - especially since we all asked for it :wink: )
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Just had 3 days of awesome boating - I was off Friday, so I took her out Friday, Saturday and Sunday. However, today (Monday) 4th day in a row, I guess I just had too much of a good thing. The same condition came back - the engine will NOT go past 1500rpm, just like the problem I had before the stator was replaced. Called the mechanic - he will check it out during the week. Should I be p****d off, or be thankful that I got at least 3 days of boating?? What could it be this time??? HELP!!
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Still sounds like an ignition problem to me... Maybe they changed the wrong switchbox? :cry:
If they've done the stator and one switchbox, there's not a lot left to fix, so eventually you will have a new ignition system!
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Thanks, GoneFission! I will suggest to my mechanic to look at the switchbox. Hopefully, that's all it is. I will post his findings.
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Man, I do feel for you. Like I had mentioned earlier, the first time I had this problem, I knew it was the stator by testing it but to be safe, I swapped out the;
1. Stator
2. Both Switchboxes
3. All 6 Ignition Coils
This was pretty much the whole ignition system. Afterwards, I did not have a single issue in 4-5 years.
As the motor was an 87 and I did this in 1998, that was 11 years. At that time, all the parts, new from Mercury were $600 and to me was well worth it to not be stranded.
I learned that the switchboxes cannot be tested, no one had the ability to do so out of every Mercury place within 100 miles of me so for the money, I swapped them both out.
I'm at a loss as to what you might do next. The only thing I can say is to make sure your water pump is good and water is getting into the motor and cooling it, espcially if you boat down south somewhere where both the air and the water are so much warmer than where I am here in MA. Then there are thermostats and poppet valves and possible clogged passages from no flushing and such, if the motor gets hot, the stator will fry in very short time.
I hope you do get it sorted out, I remember those days when I had the same issues well. I lost weeks of boating/fishing time because of it and it is tough to spend the good money and have the problem come up again.
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Thanks, ben87. I think you're right on the money. It is frustrating. The mechanic finally had a chance to go out with me yesterday, and would you believe, the boat ran fine. Why is that, it's almost like you go to the doctor and you can't show him what's wrong and he can't find anything wrong with you. But, the engine did stall, twice, and it was hard to start after. Anyway, he adjusted the cards to make it lean, and he says to try that. So I did. I wanted to go out in the afternoon, but the darn motor now won't idle - it kept stalling. I tried it again this morning, same thing. VERY FRUSTRATING!! Anyway, I called the mechanic again, and he said he will come by during the week to look at it. ben 87, it might be time to change the switch boxes and the coils. I will suggest to the mechanic. Thanks again.
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Excerpt from troubleshooting page in the Old Outboard service manual: "Problem- No acceleration, idle well but when put to full power dies down.
Causes-
A. High or low speed needle set too lean.
B. Dirt or packing behind needles and seats.
C. High speed nozzle obstructed.
D. Float level too low.
E. Choke partly closed.
F. Improper timing and synchronization.
G. Fuel lines or passages obstructed.
H. Fuel filter obstructed. Fuel pump not supplying enough fuel.
I. Not enough oil in gas.
J. Breaker points improperly gapped or dirty.
K. Bent gearcase or exhaust tube."
If I were you I would go through this whole checklist and make sure that everything is up to specs. This is a really well written manual for all kinds of outboards, not just old ones.
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I figured if nothing's working, I might as well get a 2nd opinion. I called another mechanic to look at the problem. He says the one side is not firing, and the switchbox is the culprit. The day he replaced the switchbox, he called me to say he had to leave for an emergency - his daughter was in a car accident - and she's in California. He said everything is hooked up, but he can't run the engine to see if everything is ok. I tried on my own, but I could not even get the engine started. He has not called back since (that's 3 days ago), so he might be in California. Just my luck! Anyway, the first mechanic called me today to say he will change the rest of the ignition components - trigger, the one old switchbox, and ignition coil, around $650 in parts, plus around 2 hrs. labor. Just so I can use the boat (hopefully) this Father's Day, I gave him the go ahead. Keeping my fingers crossed.
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My experience is that older 2 stroke mercurys and mariners have stator/ignition problems. I used to have a 40HP mercury, which fried 3 stators, and my 1992 Mariner 115HP has gone through one. The fix is known as the "RED STATOR". This is supposedly a better version of the former piece of crap.
Just out of curiosity: Do you hook and unhook the battery often? Do you use wing nuts on the battery? I´ve read that it is important to have VERY tight connection at the battery cables. Replace the wing nuts with good quality nuts and tighten them with a wrench. If not, small arcs can form in the battery connection that will not be well tolerated by your ignition system.
It is very difficult to troubleshoot the ignition system without the proper tools. Sadly, you may end up replacing every component in order to fix the problem, but you will never know for sure which one was the culprit of your problem.
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My vote is still that they replaced the wrong switchbox the first time. The problem you described (1500 RPM at WOT) is consistent with the engine running on 3 cylinders - that's a switchbox for sure.
Miguel is right on stators - Mercurys before they went to the auto-type alternator did seem to have a problem there. Mine has had the red stator fix as well. However, the later Mercurys with the auto-type alternator (big alternator on top of the engine run by a belt off the crank) have largely overcome the stator problem.
The battery issue is true as well, and applies to all outboards - arcs and loose battery connections will fry the ignition system quickly, as the battery is a controller of sorts for voltage. Disconnect the battery and the engine will continue to run, but the line voltage goes up to 25 or so volts, arcing will cause even higher voltage that may damage rectifiers and even the beloved coil/stator.
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Here we go. First, let me thank everyone for their solid input. Second, today (Monday) a week and 2 weekends with me not able to use the boat, the mechanic came back to hook up all new parts - switch boxes, trigger, coils. Stator was new ( replaced by the same mechanic a month ago), so pretty much the whole ignition system has been replaced. Should work, right? Sad to day, NOPE. He says now that the whole system is dead, like no spark anywhere. And he has no idea why. He wonders if, when I tried to start it with one switch box changed by the other mechanic, there was arcing or spark that may have occured and shorted something. I did not notice anything when I tried to start the engine 1 week ago. He says the best thing would be to take my boat to the shop and use a tool to test each part of the ignition system to see which one is creating the problem. Should I be frustrated, or what? I've spent close to 3k since the problem started and I still can not use the boat. Memorial weekend is past, so is Father's Day. Maybe, by Christmas, I'll be able to use the boat, after spending enough money to buy a new engine. Oh, well, I guess that's what happens when I do not have the ability to diagnose and fix these problems. But right now, I'm close to giving up on boats with outboards. I've had 3 boats before this one, all with twin engines and inboards, and I never had problems like this. All the while, I thought a small boat with an outboard is the simplest and least headaches to go boating. I'm convinced right now that I made the wrong decision to go outboard.
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I am sorry about the problems you are having :cry: Nothing is more frustrating than troubleshooting and ignition problem. Since all or most of the ignition components have been replaced, as a last resort I would have someone check for a good ground in the ignition system. If the motor has good compression, I would not give up on it yet since you have spent the money. Have you taken it to a Mercury dealer :?:
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I'm back!
Well, the good news - the boat is up and running again, at least for the hour that I picked it up from the mechanic's shop, with acces to a dock on the river to my house which is about half to an hour away, depending on speed. The bad news - invoice for $1,500 including 10 hrs labor ($670), and parts - trigger, 2 switch boxes, ignition coil, spark plugs. The stator was replaces earlier for another $600 in parts plus 2 hours labor. After the stator replacement, I ran the boat for 3 straight days (I had vacation days for 4 days) 4 hours per day, and she ran flawlessly. On the 4th day (Memorial Day Monday), the engine exhibited the same problem - will not go past 1500 rpm - as before the stator was replaced. I'm hoping that this last "fix" will have the engine running right for more than 3 days!!!! For crying out loud, all of this is going to a credit card, that I pay off a little bit at a time, and I'm certainly not liking spending/owing more and more on this outboard engine. Like I said earlier, I'm at the end of my patience with outboards, and the next problem will be the end of it - she goes. I'll be looking for twin inboards on a boat, that will likely cost me more, but at least I'm more comfortable maneuvering with twins (single outboard boats, because of light weight, are harder to dock, compounded by stalling problems), plus I never had ignition problems with inboards. And I have had 3 diferrent boats with them before this outboard - from a 26' to a 31'. Anyway, thanks for all the help and suggestions. If you see me post with another problem in the next few weeks, it will be to say good-bye to this boat and good luck to every one with outboards. By the way, the boat is excellent, the engine I can live without.
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P.S. Because I like the boat a lot, and it does not use up a lot of gas, I might try an authorized Mercury dealer next time, instead of the mechanic I use now. I spoke with a Mercury technician recently, and he seemed to think along the same lines as the group on this board. Going to a Mercury technician just might mean less hours spent trouble shooting, because he will know what to look for - less trial and error, I hope. He actually told me that ignition coils do not "usually" wear out, so he questions the mechanic replacing mine. Does anyone know of a Mercury shop in Ft. Lauderdale, Fl.? In the meantime, I will try and google. Thanks.
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Solve the problem for good and get an inboard.
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Hi, guys! I'm back! The engine exhibited something different this time - she stalls when going from forward to neutral, or neutral to reverse, or reverse to neutral, etc.!!! What the .....? Here's how the last couple of days went. I told the mechanic that, leaving the shop the other day, I started backing off the dock, and as soon as I moved the lever from reverse to neutral to go forward, the engine stalled. The engine did not start right away, but I finally managed to get it started. When I got to my dock, I had to turn around, so I put the engine in neutral, before I put it in reverse. As soon as I moved the lever from neutral to reverse, the engine stalled. Again, I had some difficulty starting back up, but I finally managed to get it going again, and go forward. When I got close to the dock, I put it again in neutral, and she stalled again!! Fortunately, I have some lines on the dock that I can grab and hold the boat in place and tie up. I called the mechanic, and he will take a look the next day. Update after the mechanic's visit.
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The mechanic came by and adjusted the timing. While tied up at the dock, he put the engine in reverse, and it did NOT stall. He kept it in reverse for a good 2 minutes to see if it will stall. It did not. He moved the lever to neutral, to forward, to neutral, back and forth, and the engine did not stall. After he left, I felt relieved that maybe, my boating is back. I took her down the river, and got her up to 4100 rpm, got back to the dock and tied up with no problems. GREAT STUFF!! I'm happy again. In the afternoon, I decided to take her out again, this time, all the way to the inlet. Long story short, the inlet (Port Everglades) was nasty, but I managed to stick her nose past the break water, and then I turned back as soon as I safely can. I was only going 2000 rpm, but the bow will rise 3 or 4 feet, and the the boat will drop 3 or 4 feet, nose first! Forecast was 1 to 2 feet, but I guess the inlet is always dangerous. Plus there's someone sea trialling a 30 footer and charging through the inlet, and he crossed my bow 100 ft away, so the effect on the waves in the inlet got even more scary!!! I prayed, kept my life vest on, kept the bow into the waves, and somehow managed to get her back in. Anyway, the story does not end there. When I got back to my dock, the stalling started again. DAMN, why is this happening to me??? What could it be this time? I called the mechanic again - he will come by to have a look at it the next day. Update to follow!
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Nothing like a good mystery!
(Glad I'm not paying to find out how it ends...)
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This time, the mechanic increased idle speed to 1000 rpm, checked to see if it will not stall from neutral to reverse, etc., and it did not stall. I was not home at the time, so told him I will try the next day, and hopefully, the problem has been solved. We'll see. I'll take her out in the morning, and report the results, hopefully a positive report.
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Simply increasing idle RPM may be masking the root cause of the problem. You're sure compression is good?
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We checked compression, it was ok - lowest 105, highest 110. That was 2 weeks ago. I'm not feeling good about increasing idle, either. Like I said, I got the boat in October 2006, no problems until about a month ago. The same mechanic has done the following: 1. Changed impeller ( routine maintenance). 2. Replaced broken throttle pin (??), I don't know what it's called. Without it, the engine will not go forward or reverse past idle. 3. Replaced tilt/trim assemble, will not tilt up, frozen in the down position. 4. The dreaded "will not go past 1500 rpm" problem, which I believe is fixed. and now, 5. Stalling problem. Do you guys think there's any connection between these problems/fixes? Is is time to go to an authorized Mercury shop????? Time for an expert 2nd opinion? Thanks for all your input, but I'm convinced, even with a detailed manual (which I have) that I don't have the ability to diagnose, much less fix these problems myself. And I'm not sure this latest problem will go away after increasing idle speed. HELP!
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I am not one of those "dealer junkies" - in fact I prefer to do work on my own stuff whenever I can. But - Mercury makes an ignition tester for their motors and it's only available in Mercury dealers or authorized repair centers. The Thunderbolt III and IV systems, as well as the EFI systems, really can't be tested without the right diagnostic equipment. :shock:
My 200 V-6 was doing the "not over 2000 RPM" thing intermittently early last year. I took it to the Mercury dealer, who tested it and told me right away that one switchbox was failing and one rectifier was out. It was not cheap - $500+ for the repairs, but the motor was running good as new when I got it back. I bought another switchbox for $50 on eBay to keep as a spare (new ones are $250) - just in case... :wink:
So my vote would be to go with an authorized Mercury dealer or repair center - you've spent way too much time and money to fix things that probably did not need fixing. Find a big Mercury shop that does lots of service work and I bet they will find the problem and fix it pronto.
Good luck and hope to see ya on the water with the hammer down!! :twisted:
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Go to the Merc. dealer. They have the diagnostic tools.
Other thing about setting the idle high is it's harder on the gearcase dogs when you shift.
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Find a big Mercury shop that does lots of service work and I bet they will find the problem and fix it pronto.
I think that is a BIG hint there and I agree - little shops and big problems (even if they don't seem like they're big) don't mix. I know that there are some really good mechanics out there, but if they can't afford(or can get) the test equipment, it's repair by replacement - that sucks. You just can't beat a big shop. Been there, done that. :thumbdown:
Now for the easy stuff, I'll do it myself, i.e impeller, plugs, thermostat, filters - the everyday stuff.
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One thing I can say about Aquasports, there's always a lot of interest, if the boat is in decent shape. You've all been a part of my ignition problems, and I want to say, Thank You for all your help and encouragement. But sad to say, I've made up my mind to go back to inboards. I posted my Aquasport on Craigs List Ft. Lauderdale on Sunday July 8th. A neighbor 2 canals away called me to look at it on the same day. My wife and I were on the boat coming back on a fishing/cruising trip, and the boat was running fine. I showed the boat to my neighbor, and he said his brother will share the purchase of the boat, so the brother will come and look at it another day. Monday, I got a call from Tampa Bay, he says if the boat is in pristine condition, he will bring cash on Friday(2 days from now). Tuesday a guy came with his family from Pembroke Pines (an hour away from me) to look at the boat, said he will think about it. Same day, another guy said he's off Wednesday (today) and he will come by to look at the boat. He ended up buying the boat today - he gave me cash and I signed the title to him at 7:30 p.m. today. Before he came, somebody else from Daytona Beach called to see if he can come by on the weekend. 5 callers within 5 days, and one of them bought it. WOW!!! I guess I priced the boat right - asking $5k with trailer, accepted $4k cash. I had to call the guy coming on Friday to tell him the boat is sold, and he was pissed. I told him he has not given me a deposit, and this guy gave me cash. Now on to my next boat - a 1984 Shamrock 20' cuddy cabin, single inboard. I'm looking at it Friday morning, might make a deal same day. I may have another boat before the weekend. Is this tiring you all just reading about it??? Anyway, Aquasports rock, there's always going to be buyers, so hold on to them as long as you can. As long as they don't become problematic ($$$$$'s) like mine.
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Sorry you had those aggravations. Keep your eyes open (and here) and maybe an inboard or i/o Aquasport will appear that will grab your interest.
Good luck.