Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 22-2 Rebuilds => Topic started by: JimCt on March 31, 2007, 06:48:40 PM
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Brought her home today.
Pit stop on I95 to check wheel bearings & general walk-around:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1019.jpg)
Home and the usual bleach/powerwash clean-up:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1026.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1025.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1021.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/240_316.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/240_318.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/240_319.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/240_320.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/240_321.jpg)
Inspecting as I cleaned, there are loose fittings here and there, some glass work that needs to be done in a locker under the casting deck, various somewhat minor things that need addressing but the deck will absolutely have to be replaced. It's mushy most everywhere aft of the console. My inclination is to leave her as she is for this year and use her a few times. I'd like to see how the mechanicals are before turning her into a project boat. If the engine & transmission are sound, then it'll only be the floor that needs doing. If the engine/transmission turn out to be off their game, I'll pull the engine and have it rebuilt while I'm replacing the deck.
Running through my mind as I was cleaning her up was how much smaller she is compared to the 240. Only 1' 10" difference but she seems almost tiny by comparison. Just the difference in the square footage of bottom paint is incredible. That being said, I'm head over heels in love with this boat. No second thoughts whatsoever... none.
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sweet find. i havent seen an inboard 222 yet. that should be interesting...........
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Good luck Jim, beautiful boat...
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A great find and I can think of no better owner.
The difference between the 22 and the 24 is similar to what I experienced with a 196/200 and my 22-2CCP.
Does this mean that - I almost hate to say it - size matters? :oops: :oops: :oops:
See ya on the water!
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I really like the lines of that boat Jim. We will all be looking forward to seeing that on evolve.
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NICE :!: :!: :!: :!:
The running gear looked to be off the ground adequately when under tow. I know that was a concern of yours. How'd the trailer perform?
What is the "pipe" on the transom, with the cap, for?
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Thanks for the kind words!
Pipe is the fuel filler. It's not original so I'm wondering if the tank's been replaced. Trailer performed perfectly despite the fact that the boat was loaded off center to the right. Brakes appeared to function properly. Trailer will need guides added plus the boat's resting about 3" too far forward. The rudder & shaft strut clear the road by about 8" with the trailer level. When I get the boat unloaded onto blocks I'll extend the aft end of the rear bunks to reach the transom and maybe a little past the transom.
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Very nice. Any idea on the number of these produced by AS? I've never seen one before.
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Not many so far as I can tell... only one other, I think, has appeared on the site but was sold and the new owner pulled the engine and put outboards on a bracket. Real shame I think.
Today I'd planned to investigate the systems a bit to get the feel of things but a friend happened to show up at the house so I gave him the nickel tour. He was a bit perplexed as to where the engine was so, saving the best for last, I lifted the console and there it was. He recognized the engine instantly and asked if it ran. Well, one thing lead to another so the tools came out and we did a quick check of fluids, belt tensions etc. Pulled the raw water inlet hose off the seacock and stuffed the garden hose into it running full blast, broke out a fire extinguisher, jumpered the battery and... nothing except the sound of the un-engaged starter motor running. We knew there was full juice to the starter so that of course meant the Bendix was stuck. Pulled the starter, WD-40'd it, freed up the Bendix some, bolted it back on and still no engagement.
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1029.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1031.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1035.jpg)
Snagged one of the many sharp tie-wrap cut ends...damned things...
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1027.jpg)
Blood notwithstanding, we pressed on...
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1036.jpg)
Went through pulling the starter three times & monkeying with the stiff Bendix before it would finally engage.
Now was the moment of truth. Turned the key and cranked maybe 10 seconds on & off then...
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1028.jpg)
Ran it about an hour and kept a close eye on things but she settled in and purred like a kitten. Risers stayed cool, no leaks and gauges were happy:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1038.jpg)
Even the two bilge pumps kicked on a few times to keep us afloat on account of the overflow from the garden hose. Messed around the rest of the day doing little things, carting the cushions, bimini, dodger, etc. into the basement. Rain tonight so buttoned her up for the week.
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1039.jpg)
So it was a good day. If I can keep my mitts off the sawzall and resist tearing out the soft deck, I'll have a boat to use this summer. She'll be a hoot!
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Great! No big clouds of blue smoke either. :wink:
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Very nice Jim. Do you think the starter will be reliable now?
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Congratulations on true gem!!!
Boy, would she look good with a diesel......
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No blue smoke but still haven't put it under any load yet. The 4bbl seems fine but cannot get idle below 1100 RPM which means there's possibly a vacuum leak somewhere.
The starter in there is actually the wrong one. It's a marine-use starter and fits the hole properly but the correct starter is a pre-engagement type which doesn't use a Bendix. Pre-engagement starters engage the starter gear with the flywheel ring gear before energizing the starter motor. This type is far more reliable and a heck of a lot easier on the ring gear. Will replace the starter before the boat's used.
Miguel, you're thinking ahead of the curve; diesel would be sweet...
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So cool...gawd I love inboards!
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Promised not to take the Sawzall to her and I've kept my promise; used a screwdriver and bare hands instead. Hatch panel just aft of the console was soft as soggy Wonder Bread so I popped off the underside glass matting & scraped off the composted ply back to the skin:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1059.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1062-1.jpg)
Will give it a week or two to thoroughly dry then laminate a new ply core on. The other panel, aft at the transom over the steering quadrant, appears solid. Deck is soft, but I'm letting that be for now. Anyway, it's easier on the feet... like walking on a soft rug :roll: .
Since I don't much trust single engines, I found this for a kicker:
HONDA OUTBOARD,
9.9 4 Stroke, 20" Shaft, Just Serviced w/All New Parts, Impeller, Carb, CDI Unit Fluids, New Gas Tank, Also Has Built In Charging System, Very Clean, Runs Great.
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1050.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1055.jpg)
I like the fact that it can charge a battery. Redundancy makes me a happier camper. Will run down Saturday A.M. and have a look at it. Anyone have any experience with these motors?
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Jim,
I wish my access panel would have been that rotten and that size :shock: Looks like you made quick work of that. Love the boat :!: :!: :!: :!: It looks like you have a real classic on your hands :!:
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Seems impossible, but my 240 deck was less soft that this boat. When the core is only semi-shot it's a horrible job. Likely it's easier to just make up a completely new panel using the old one as a pattern. This panel was so bad however, stripping the core only took a half hour.
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Looks like an older model but Honda 4 strokes have a great reputation around here.
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It's an '87.
Just to jump ahead a little, how would the charging circuit tie-in from the outboard to the batteries? Can both the kicker and the main engine be tied in at the same time or should the O/B and main be connected through a DPDT?
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I've fished a lot in Alaska with Honda 9 horse kickers. They have a great reputation for being efficient, relatively quiet, clean, and reliable.
You may find you want to move it back and forth to the "big" boat!
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I think that motor will be about right. It has enough power to at least get me home after a while and is reasonably light.
Any recommendations for a lift bracket? Motor weighs about 100 pounds.
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You are right; a 4 stroke kicker needs a heavy-duty bracket: :shock:
http://www.internetoutboards.com/partdetail.asp?id=564 (http://www.internetoutboards.com/partdetail.asp?id=564)
And there's one on eBay: :lol:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Four-Str ... enameZWDVW (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Four-Stroke-Outboard-Boat-Motor-Bracket-by-Garelick_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ26455QQitemZ150108967987QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)
See ya on the water!
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Jim,
You would probably be okay having them both connected to the main battery at the same time but I would probably put in a regular OFF - 1 - 2 battery switch in the positive leads just to be sure. You can tie the negatives together with no problem.
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Thanks for the lead & info. on the bracket. Have bookmarked it so if I go with the Honda I'll send a bid in on the ebay Garelick.
Boat has a 1-2-both-off switch on it now so I'll tie it in there. Am always leery about two charging systems butting heads.
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There's always a technology answer!
Several companies (Guest, Cole-Hersee, SurePower, etc.) make a battery isolator for dual batteries and dual alternators. It allows both batteries to be charged anytime either or both of the alternators is running. Had one on my Chris-Craft Constellation and it worked like a champ! The Connie had two 135 amp alternators (one for each engine) charging two 4D batteries, so I needed a heavy duty model.
You don't have to fiddle with switches and one battery cannot run another one down.
Guest model is 2402 for 70 amp - that should be plenty for you! You can check it out at:
http://www.marine.com/product_info.php/ ... aaeea9b58c (http://www.marine.com/product_info.php/products_id/5561?osCsid=85849dc00ff06be6ec21baaaeea9b58c)
See ya on the water!
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Thanks GF!
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Gathered a bit more intel on the boat. Apparently it had sunk back in '82 or thereabouts and that's when the present engine was installed. New wiring was pulled at the time and gauges were replaced.
Pulled the enclosure off the fuel tank:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1064.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1065.jpg)
Original tank appears in serviceable condition and has it's Tecstar label still on it:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1063.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1068.jpg)
Supporting blocks are unprotected fir blocks which are rotted:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1067.jpg)
Previous owner had advised replacing the fuel line... which was sound advice:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1066.jpg)
Immediate mission is to make her safe for now, the deck as tight as I can make it with a fast butter job of caulk and use her a few times this summer. Fall will find her on blocks in the hoophouse to get the deck removed, bilges prettied-up, foam replaced and a new deck... all this as the 240 continues on her path of reconstruction.
Trailer is a 2002 Karavan with drum brakes which seem to be functioning. Will check bearings, brake cylinders and replace a couple of dead bulbs.
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Sweet rig :D Looks like you've got a beauty queen waiting to come out of hiding.. :wink: Keep up the great work and keep the pics. coming.
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Will do... thanks!
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Been tied up with non-AS stuff for a while but managed to re-core that panel I stripped (see above somewhere). Replaced the inspection plate with a larger one with a clear lid... just to keep an eye on the stuffing box. Also glass reinforced the receiving flanges in the deck so the panel will have better support. The floor in this boat is bad enough that the deck flanges for the two deck panels bend down with any serious weight on them. All I want to do at this point is to band-aid things together enough to get her overboard and run her some. Next is to get the gas out of the tank so I can get a good look at that. Gas seems to still be good so I'll use it in the backhoe and the Farmall.
Will post pictures when I can.
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Big Ragu, way out in Seattle, was kind enough to send along one of his 22-2 badges for me to copy:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1069.jpg)
Got a start on it this evening by filling minor nicks & cracks here & there and filling the rivet holes in prep for pouring the RTV mold material. Before the RTV is poured, the badge will be sprayed with lecithin mold release. The 240 badge was trial & error but now that the process is worked out I expect to have parts molded this weekend.
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NICE!
I assume you might bring some down to the meet?
:wink:
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[ Anyway, it's easier on the feet... like walking on a soft rug :roll: .
LOL, never heard it described that way before.
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Did some final fitting of the deck panel, the one just aft of the console. Extended it a little longer to tuck further under the console. When the deck is replaced the deck opening around the engine will have about a 4" high curb flange added which will fit inside the console when the console is lowered in place. This will keep deck water from leaking into the engine space... which it does now and is not a good situation.
Pulled the bow rail off; wasn't original and was a poor fit. VHF whip gone too. The new kicker bracket arrived on UPS:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/c358_1.jpg)
Soon as I empty the fuel tank and get that out of the way I'll get the bracket & kicker mounted.
This boat will be a tasty project to get my teeth into when the 240 is wrapped up.
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Hey Jim,
Any chance of making up and bringing down a few of those 22-2 badges for the Shell Island get together?
I’d gladly buy 2 of them off you, cash, beer, liquor, Mon Venus? :twisted:
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Will try to remember to bring some of the badges with me.
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Got the fuel tank emptied and pulled out:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1070.jpg)
Liner at the transom shows the the vestigial profile for an outboard:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1072.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1074.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1078.jpg)
Some pitting where the tank was supported on raw wood sleepers:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1077.jpg)
No question the tank needs to be replaced but for this season will just clean up the bad areas and coat with coal tar epoxy.
Fabricated a new tank support platform from 5/8" ply. In this view the platform is upside down:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1079.jpg)
No fancy work, just something to safely support the tank. When the deck gets replaced the support platform will no longer be needed since the new tanks will be installed below the deck.
Continued removing odds & ends that were screwed to the deck over the years... one being a disused downrigger mount. Toting up the weight of removed items adds up to about 75 pounds so far. Every bit of weight that can be removed will add a little to the boat's performance.
Pulled the old fuel line. If I'd known it was so deteriorated I would never have started the motor a few weeks ago. Miracle it wasn't leaking. Judging by the line's condition it looks like E-10 fuel was the culprit. Highly recommend anybody with an older boat to replace their fuel & vent lines with E-10 proof hose.
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Tonight poured the RTV to create the 22-2 badge mold. If the cure goes well will cast some badges tomorrow evening.
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8)
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Wow, so your inboard was once an outboard? Or do you think AS used an outboard hull when they created this inboard?
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Liner mold was designed to go either way. My hull is identical to a 22-2 outboard with the exception of the full transom and bed stringers for the engine.
Badge progress moving along with a good mold:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1082.jpg)
good casting pour:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1084.jpg)
and finally the first 22-2 badge...
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1085.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1086.jpg)
Four badges molded this evening.
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Very nice!
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Nice work!
See ya Saturday.
-Mike
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You da man! Lunch is on me...
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Spent some time this weekend doing little tasks in the direction of getting her ready for commissioning this summer. Finished removing the last of the un-used hardware from the deck... old cover snaps, misc. disused brackets etc. and got the holes filled with thickened resin and faired. Finished glassing the fuel tank support and mounted a new fuel filter/separator on a new pad in the bilge area under a removable deck hatch. Roughed-in new 3/8" fuel line.
One thing I noticed when we ran the motor on the trailer a while back was that the water flow out of the port exhaust was somewhat less than the starboard side. Since there is generally a reason for everything, I decided to investigate further. I pulled the port side 3" exhaust line (which runs from the engine riser to the transom and found the inside liner of the hose was collapsed. Cause for that was an overheating of the line at some point in the past caused by poor water flow. Rubber exhaust hose survives high exhaust temperatures by being mixed with the engine raw water discharge through the hose. A few seconds running with an impaired water flow and the hose starts disintegrating on the inside. Will get new hose ordered from Jamestown Distributors in the A.M.
Started getting the new Fulton outboard kicker bracket ready for mounting. Because of the height of the transom and the overhang of the rubrail over the transom I fabricated an 8" x 10" x 2.5" pad (four pieces of 5/8" ply glassed together) to hold the bracket away from the transom for operating clearance. Should be able to get the bracket mounted next weekend.
Fiddled around with battery locations and think I can mount the batteries in the bilge on either side of the prop shaft log. Once the batteries are mounted, the deck area will be totally clear of all obstructions. The batteries were mounted in the flip-back helmsman's cooler seat. The cooler is off the boat now and so needed to find a new spot for the batteries. I like a clutter-free deck... makes for more working room.
Will post progress pictures sometime this week.
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Sounds like you got a lot done on her!!
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It's all just misc. projects to get her fit for this summer.
Today threatened rain so i played hookey from mowing... Replaced the port exhaust line from the riser to the overboard discharge:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1087.jpg)
In order to get at the exhaust fitting at the transom, had to cut out a small section of the deck:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1088.jpg)
This is the condition of the old exhaust line and why the port side exhaust had reduced water discharge. Looks to me like this puppy got overheated sometime:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/111_1090.jpg)
This shows the new filter/separator location and the spot where I will put a battery box.
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1089.jpg)
Also did some work on the 240 which is shown on the other thread.
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This past week got the battery mounted... it just fits:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1094.jpg)
Installed new deck drain brass thimbles:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1092.jpg)
Finally got the kicker bracket mounted and the motor on:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1090.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1091.jpg)
Bracket had to go on before the fuel tank goes in for access to the bracket bolts. I'm not particularly happy with the look of the transom with the motor on there but that's the cost of having back-up power.
Replaced the exhaust back-wash flappers with reinforced silicone rubber material:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1096.jpg)
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That boat is looking like it is ready to be used! I think you need some on the water shots soon.
What are your thoughts long term? Use the 222 as is, or start digging deeper into it when the 240 is operational?
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Well, the 222's definitely a keeper. Work being done on her now is just to get her in commission. Once she's in, will be able to determine more about what will need to be addressed; engine, new fuel tank location, trim adjustment, etc. Once that's worked out and the 240 is finally buttoned up, will pull the cap off the 222 for rebuild and replace the deck. The 240's on probation until I see how she handles and how logistics work out.
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This weekend got several tasks behind me... aside from having a new wood roof put on the fort:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1097.jpg)
The fuel tank has been cleaned up and pitted areas have been filled with JB Weld... should hold up fine for getting through the season since there were no active leaks when the tank was pulled out originally. Got it fitted back in on the new support structure I built.
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1098.jpg)
The deck fuel filler fitting, when I got the boat was mis-aligned a couple of inches with the tank filler. Since the distance from the deck filler fitting to the tank fill opening is about 3", the jog that the short 1 1/2" connecting hose had to contend with was pretty severe. I have filled the old opening with a glassed-in dutchman and will re-bore a new hole for the fitting directly over the tank filler.
All hoses were replaced and plumbed down to the fuel filter:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1099.jpg)
The second output hose from the filter assembly goes to the kicker.
The boat had no bilge blower when I got it... and as far as I can see never had one. Located the blower in the bilge but have not worked out routing for the exhaust:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1100.jpg)
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Man I really do like the look of that boat... an inborad 222 is a really cool thing. As I stated before, I want to see some pictures in the water!
You can ignore this note since you're not planning on keeping that tank past this season (and I know you know this anyway), but: I would typically recommend against sitting your tank on wood like you have- it holds moisture and encourages corrosion of the aluminum.
Just thought it might be good to point that out for others who may be following your work and using it as a template.
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Actually, the tank is now sitting on heavily glassed plywood so there is no raw wood in contact with the tank. Your point is well taken though. When I pulled the tank it was sitting directly on raw wood; that was the cause of the pitting I found.
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OK, with paralleling my time between the two boats, I got a few things done on my true love.
Strictly a cosmetic thing but the transom seat over the fuel tank was varnished teak which bugged the hell out of me. To me, unless varnish work, especially in a conspicuous place, is darn near perfect, it's an eyesore. Added to that, again my opinion, teak should never be varnished. Oiled? Yes... but not varnished. Two reasons why. Teak is probably the worst surface for varnish to adhere to because of the natural oils in the wood and its very tight grain structure. If teak is varnished, fifteen coats are the minimum you need if you expect it to hold and look good. When I sailed professionally my schedule for all exterior varnished teak was to sand maybe five coats off and replace with five new coats. This was done at two month intervals. Even then, I had problems with it.
Second reason is that teak, traditionally, is a decking wood. Raw teak has terrific anti-skid properties when wet which is a plus when scrambling around on deck in snotty weather handling sails. Translate that to my lowly 22-2 and that means you can stand on the wet seat and cast your line with some energy and not worry about loosing your footing. Maintenance amounts to simply scrubbing it down once a week with Teak-Brite. The natural oils in the wood prevent it from wetting down to any depth so when the weather clears it dries in a flash. One last point... I love the smell of freshly sanded teak.
Freshly sanded teak. Varnish removed:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1101.jpg)
As mentioned, pulled the rudder to re-hab the rudder post stuffing box:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1102.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1103.jpg)
Pulled stuffing box fitting off, cleaned it up and re-set it:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1105.jpg)
Again, dabs of silicone on the nuts to positively prevent any loosening.
This is the shaft coupling that's been giving me a hard time. Got it about halfway off the shaft this evening before daylight failed:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1104.jpg)
This picture shows where the second battery will be mounted. Tight fit, but it works:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1106.jpg)
Lastly, just wanted to show off the bilge after an Easy-Off treatment. Degreased and clean as it can be:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_1107.jpg)
All for now. Late supper and off to bed.
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Looking good. That coupler doesn't look like any fun. Are you heating it up to get it off?
In the last shot, the mechanism to Port beside the fuel line - is that the steering linkage? I think I see the stuffing thruhull in the center.
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Just light heat applied to the coupler so nothing gets distorted. Yes, that is the steering linkage... all standard Teleflex components.
Re-installed the covering panel and teak stern seat today:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_108.jpg)
Shot showing the rudder, prop, shaft and strut missing...
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_109.jpg)
These get delivered down to the local prop shop tomorrow for a going over.
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Over the last couple of days have been going over the engine. Changed lube oil & filter, transmission oil, distributor cap, coil, coil ballast, heat exchanger zinc, and generally continued to familiarize myself with the set-up. One task I'm glad I did was to replace the thermostat... or should I say put one in. Somewhere along the line the engine may have had a cooling problem so some engine wizard decided removing the thermostat was a nifty solution... :roll: Well, it has one now. Will run the engine for an hour or so on the trailer to be sure the cooling is functioning properly.
Got the running lights working but will have to add a 360 degree white light somewhere near the stern. Back in '74 apparently the only white light required was a 135 deg. stern light.
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Got the running lights working but will have to add a 360 degree white light somewhere near the stern. Back in '74 apparently the only white light required was a 135 deg. stern light.
Here is what I bought yesterday and installed today (http://www.innovativelight.com/products/index.cfm?categoryid=62) - $70 at Boaters world. The model I bought extends from 2 - 6ft and the base makes it stand straight up - for me that's perfect. Has a 3- section "radio antenna" approach for height. Draws .25A. I'll experience how it works tommorrow night.
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Be interested how you do with the light Rick...
Just a couple of pictures documenting things. First is the wheel:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_112.jpg)
Numbers at the top look like a date code. Wonder if they re-prop'ed the boat for the bigger engine.
Rudder was made for AS:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_111.jpg)
Lettering looks like 29.9. Dunno what that's supposed to mean.
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The LED all-around light worked :!:
We stern anchored to a beach so the dogs could have a place to romp and this also afforded me the chance to get a look at the all-around from a long distance - I could walk about a 1/2 mile down the beach. There was a lot of "light clutter" on the horizon and this all-around was the "whitest" thing on the horizon. Really caught your eye. Glad I bought it.
We'd still be out there but my Sea Star steering blew a seal and started leaking all over the place. :cry:
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You able to change the seal yourself? Is that the type of system that is pressurized with air?
Yesterday got the port side battery box base fabricated and glassed in. Talked to my prop guy www.halepropeller.com (http://www.halepropeller.com) who said the strut & shaft should be done Friday. Randy Hale is an old friend who goes back to my old kidhood days sailing out of Essex, CT. He runs a great shop and has developed a hyper-accurate computerized prop analysis machine. Video & explanation of the machine are on his site.
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After some tinkering to get the support brackets loose, I was able to change the seals and caps myself ($110). Hardest part was fabricating a way to put ATF in the reservoir (part of steering wheel) and clear the lines of air. Dave had a tank already made that fit his steering system but the connector had to be changed/mod'd to fit the SeaStar. After an hour or 2 dinking with that, we were able to fill and purge the lines and she's all back to normal now.
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We need more pictures!
Have I mentioned how much I love inboards? :lol:
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Pictures??? Well, here's a couple from this afternoon's progress.
Got the other battery box installed and re-routed some wiring to accommodate the new battery locations:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_114.jpg)
I lucked out with moving the batteries to the bilge... everything just fits. Location is good too because where they are now is low and symmetrical... also its the sweet spot for minimum motion.
Juice to the engine is routed through the "1,2, both" battery selector switch but for some reason the feed to the console breaker panel isn't. Will remedy that this weekend. The bilge pumps are wired directly to the batteries, which is correct.
NOTE: Some of the things I've done are going to get changed and/or prettied-up some when the restoration on her gets started after the 240 is finally out of the way. Those glassed patches on either side of the deck panel opening look horrible but they are there simply to stiffen up the receiving flange so the panel doesn't collapse into the bilge when you stand on it. As I mentioned early on, the deck is soft as a marshmallow... everywhere. The patches and reinforced areas are band-aids only. For the time being she will be safe and functional but no beauty queen.
With the batteries behind me now I sorted out the nav. light wiring to the transom and got the new 360 deg. stern light mounted and lit:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_113.jpg)
The light set into the transom is non-reg. nowadays but because it was there... and I like it, I got it going anyway. If inspection doesn't like it, that's their problem.
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Added an antifreeze overflow tank... just visible ahead of the alternator:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_012.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_013.jpg)
Tight fit getting it in there. Tank is from a junkyard Jeep. This will keep overflow out of the bilge.
Installed new plugs, wires & coil today. Next is to run the engine for a couple of hours & check timing and distributor advance and see if everything is fit for operation.
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When is launch day?
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Launch day is soon. One ugly fact about this whole thing is I have nothing to haul it with. Am looking for a Ford 250 or 350 4x4, diesel preferably, with a dump body which will also be able to haul the 240. Also, having a backhoe to load stuff into it, a dump makes unloading fill. logs, brush, etc. a much easier task. Straight pickups are everywhere but mason's versions in serviceable shape are hard to find. In the meantime, I have two friends who've offered their trucks to haul it with. Distance to ramp is only a half mile.
Ran the engine for two hours after work yesterday. Idled much more smoothly since I did the tune-up. Water temp was stable at 160* and oil pressure indicated 45#. IR temperature readings off the manifolds matched. Once the shaft, strut & prop are back from the shop we'll be ready to go.
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Good to hear :!:
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Found a tow vehicle:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/misc_001.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/misc_004.jpg)
1996 350 4x4 with a dump body. Turbo diesel w/5 speed. As you can see, some rust on the dump body from its life as a sanding truck but fine for my purposes.
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SWEET! That thing is cool!
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If the boats can't be towed with that truck, then they can't be towed by anything :wink: Definitely multi-purpose - can clear a path to go ice boating too :lol:
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Plow will be helpful in clearing the ramp on busy days...
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Plow will be helpful in clearing the ramp on busy days...
:lol:
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nice tow rig. that would be so cool to drive down here in Louisana. these people would freake out.
I would have to paint some big eyes an teeth on it an add a big train air horn
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Now there's an idea... plow and an air horn.
Actually you see a fair number of trucks this size hauling boats. Difficulty is finding one someone's willing to part with.
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Decided to take a break from my ICU boats to have a romp in my old 170. What a sweet boat!
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/misc_023.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/misc_024.jpg)
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A needed break!!
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JimCt,
I noticed the 75HP Merc -- how do you like that HP?? I plan to use my AS 170 for inshore fishing, but the kids will likely use it to tube or even maybe pull a skier so I've been considering 90HP -- will that be too much?? Also, I noticed the transom, looks like a 20" shaft -- I was talking with someone who has had a couple AS 170s in my area and he mentioned making the transom for a 25" shaft, basically eliminating that small notch for the motor to reduce water over the transom. Any thoughts on that?? I'm going to replace the transom this fall.
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Depends on how exciting you want the kids skiing/tubing to be. I defer to others to answer that question since the only things I've towed are umbrella rigs. I get nervous towing humans.
All the 170's I've seen have the notch. I liked the 75 fine. Light enough engine so I had some freeboard back at the transom...
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Jim,
Still waiting for pics of the "refreshed" boat in the water. :lol:
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Having an adventure trying to get the new ignition system to function. Next, the strut has to be aligned & set. Have been up to my ears w/work, getting the F-350 in order and mowing. Next weekend have to re-deck the porch at my mother's place. Am trying to squeeze in AS time where I can. Seems the more I do the further behind I get...
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Join the club... (non-sarcastically) it was birthday weekend this weekend (mine and the wife's- I am 29, she's 30- we're getting really old :roll: ). Anyway, the majority of the time was spent hanging 2" wood blinds that were a joint "house gift".... hung 14 windows worth in all. Look good, but the flatback is no closer to the H20.
:spiderman:
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Same here. Work has had me bouncing from FL to MA to CA for two months. In between is mowing, visiting grandkids, normal honey-do's. Then my dog comes down with an weird auto-immune system disorder and nearly died. Owning boats has been a waste this summer.
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Finally got the engine running again after tearing out the original Chrysler ECM ignition system. Strange how you figure things out sometimes. Usually when I sleep on a knotty problem, in the morning I have a solution to the situation. In this case what solved the engine problem was running the kicker... of all things. As I said, I'd torn out the old Chrysler ECM module & harness and replaced it with a new Mallory distributor which has a magnetic pick-up and electronic advance.
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_002.jpg)
I have tried for two weeks on & off to get the engine to start. Not even a cough. Checked that timing marks were corresponding to the correct rotor position for #1 cylinder, correct voltage was getting through the ballast resistor, the coil was good... the whole works. Had spark from the coil and out to the plugs. Only thing left possible was that the timing was out 180 degrees. Triple checked that again and all was good. It had to run... but nothing.
Two days ago after messing with advancing & retarding the spark and running the batteries down I figured I'd move on to something else on the boat to at least get something accomplished. Decided to run the Honda kicker and check it's charging circuit to be sure it was functioning. Connected the fuel line up, which draws from the same tank as the main engine, gave the bulb a couple of squeezes and the outboard fired right up. Ran for about two minutes then quit. Figured there was still some air in the line so I gave the bulb another squeeze or two and the motor lit right off just fine. Ran for another minute then quit. If you've been following me on this, you've already figured out why the main engine wasn't starting. If the outboard was starved for fuel the main engine was too.
This afternoon put in 5 gallons of fuel, cranked the main engine about 10 seconds and:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/th_222_005-1.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/?action=view¤t=222_005-1.flv)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/th_222_007-1.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/?action=view¤t=222_007-1.flv)
:oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :!:
My father always told me "When all else fails check the fuel!"
I should keep him in mind more often.
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Yep. Some days we are just too hard headed to believe what we already know. Glad it's running. That new ignition should be way more reliable.
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No gauge?
Glad it's running.
Now that it is Labor Day (like you said - Already) isn't it time to winterize and cover them up for the winter? Hope not.
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Jim - with the price of gas these days, I could see why you trying to wean that engine from it - but I guess it just does not work that way... :oops:
It's amazing how often something obvious is missed. The transom drain plug somehow comes to mind to me... :roll:
I've got to join the club on lack of boat use this summer - been all over the world to work, but the Aquasport has been sitting unused. But next week for sure!!! :lol:
See ya on the water (I hope!)
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My problem was in assuming and it cost me 2 weeks.
Boat has a low tech gauge: a mahogany stick. At least now I know where empty is on the stick, about 4 gallons remain below the pick-up. The tank, which is original, was never fitted for an electric gauge and with the age of it I figured why spend the money on it when it's going to be replaced anyway. My 170 was never rigged for a gauge either.
As far as using the boat, the last task is re-setting the prop strut. Still plenty of time to use it. The way the weather's been these last few years, end of November to the middle of December is when the curtain falls.
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I've always preached about having bilge pumps on an unfused circuit. Today I changed my tune. From here on out EVERYTHING will be fused.
Here's what happened today. Because the shaft wasn't lining up perfectly to the transmission flange and the boat was somewhat crooked on the trailer, I decided to float the boat off the trailer, line it up perfectly and re-haul it on the trailer to see if that would help the alignment. Had seacocks closed, garboard plug in and everything pretty well buttoned up for the first "splash" of the boat since I've owned it. Since you never know with a new boat, I had the batteries aboard and the bilge pumps armed to go on if something unexpected happed. Well, we got the boat in and tied off at the float at the ramp. I pulled the empty trailer up the ramp to do some adjusting on it and tweak a few things when I got an alarmed shout from my friend who was helping me with the operation. "The boat's smoking!" Took me about 15 seconds to drop what I was doing and scamper down the ramp to the float and sure enough, smoke was rolling out of the console. My first concern was the gas going off but the smell was electrical... so far. Jumped aboard, confirmed the fuel shut-off was off then killed the main switch then disconnected the batteries from the circuit. The smoke stopped. Tipped up the console and the engine looked perfect. Peered into the console and sure enough it was electrical. Two wires had heated up enough to fry themselves and completely char the insulation off.
Here's what I found:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_014.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_123.jpg)
and the bilge pump switch...
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_120.jpg)
Turns out the forward pump had ingested a screw somehow and had seized. Naturally, with no fuse in the circuit, the two batteries kept bailing the power to the pump until it shorted out and completed the circuit from one pole to the other of the batteries. The fried wires also caused some collateral damage to adjacent wiring. Things got so hot that it took out the switch panel. Second picture shows the copper buss desoldered from the hot side of all the fuses. Those two yellow & red wires are 14AWG.
The culprit:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/222_015.jpg)
So, today I got the shaft flange to align to the transmission but the cost was a bit high.
When I got home from the ramp I changed my shorts.
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:evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :x :x :x :x :x :x :x
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Better it happened where it did than offshore.
Found the same switch panel on the Boatfix site (Sea-Dog #422010) and got one on order. Will drop right in. Couple of hours pulling new wire and staking on terminations will have things put to rights. New pump on order too.
Boat sure felt different in the water than the 170. Trim is different than O/B 22-2's; stern sits higher since the engine weight's practically in the center of the boat. Can't wait to actually use the thing.
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Wow, always an adventure!
I'm glad things didn't get any worse.
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Ouch!
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Tough luck Jim. I do go one step over-size on bilge pump fuses AND wires but they always get a fuse. I had rather sink than burn or blow up. I figure the one size up will help keep it running in a strain. I like the magnetically coupled pumps. If the impeller gets jammed, they will not pump but they will not burn up either.
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New panel installed an all fried wiring replaced. Bilge pumps are now separately fused and on dedicated circuits. Pictures to follow.
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As you know, getting any boat "right" will be a challenge. You can take consolation in the fact that everything will have been checked out when she gets officially splashed! :D
I can't wait to see some pictures of her in the water again in all her glory!!!!
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billh1963, when I bought the boat she was allegedly "splashable" but, being who I am with those little devils in my head saying "better check things out first", I listened to the devils. Glad I did. Some things I addressed were not necessary but I found enough unsafe & terminal items that a complete run-through of the systems had to be done. Decks are spongy to be sure and cosmetics need serious help but the boat will be safe to use.
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b
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(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/Aquaboat106.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/Aquaboat107.jpg)
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JIM!
Long time...
Looks great.
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Sure a nice looking ride. :thumright:
So how'd it feel? Worth the wait?
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What kind of halloween costume is that?
Oh yeah, it's cold up there ;)
Nice shots :!:
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Jim,
SWEET....................I'm in Montauk this weekend. Come across the sound and take me for a ride............just kidding.
Rich
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Beatiful, JIM!!!!!
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Lookin' good, Jim! A classic for sure! :thumleft:
That 318 amidships really looks like a perfect balance under power. And you can't beat a 4 cycle V-8 for torque and efficiency.
Thanks for the photos and bringing us along on the project. Now for the 240... :lol:
See ya on the water!
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i know this is an older thread, but curious as to why , you didnt mount kicker bracket in the center?, would steer easier, track easier, etc?