Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Center Console Professional (CCP) Rebuilds => 200 CCP Rebuilds => Topic started by: NewGuy55 on August 07, 2020, 04:36:12 PM
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Hello all, new member & first post here on the forum. Currently living in Tampa, Florida. I've become a fan of the Aquasport brand for a while & decided to pull the trigger on a "project" boat about 2 months ago. I ended up purchasing a '79 Aquasport 200cc. It was powered by a Johnson 200 that seemed a little shabby & sure enough on the day of purchase the previous owner couldn't get it started. I instead purchased from another seller a '93 Yamaha 200hp 2-Stroke for the repower that sounded great, shifted smooth & had good compression, 115-120 in all cylinders.
The boat was in fair condition, knew it would require some work but as I dug into things a bit I realized it needed more than I had planned for. Not a big deal, I wanted a project & have no timetable as to when I want this finished, I just want it done right. Not only will I have satisfaction of doing the majority of the work to bring this bad boy back to life myself, but with it being my first boat - I find a lot of comfort knowing that I'll know everything about this boat from the ground up if some problems should arise, & I'm certain they will.
So, as it stands right now I've cut out the whole floor & plan to lay a new one with some marine ply. I've already had a new aluminum tank fabricated (70-75 Gall) as the one in the floor was pitted & not in usable condition. Stringers are in good shape structurally, foam in them is dry but there was some delamination in sections that I've already addressed.
At the moment, I'm in the process of removing the rotted coring of the transom (working from the inside). I'm hoping that by getting the majority of that dirty work done on my own, I could get a fair price from a shop for a transom rebuild. I'm liking the idea of going coosa for that & willing to pay the extra on materials to do so. I've searched this forum along with others & have been in contact with shops on estimates but I'm still open to hearing about others if anyone has recommendations.
I'm back to work & limited on time to work on taking out the rotted coring of the transom. I'll probably be chipping away at it for a little while before I get it into a shop for a rebuild but aside from that I'm kind of at a standstill - can't lay the deck until the transom is done.
Anyhow, I just wanted to introduce myself on the board, fill you guys in on the project & look forward to learning even more than I already have from you guys for my build.
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nice little boat for a project. Before you get too far along with the demo figure out a way to measure exactly where the top of the transom is so that when you rebuild you know it's at the right height.
When I tore out my transom I also left the outer skin intact. Lots of cuts with a circular saw just be careful with blade depth, also used a sawzall near the edges. By making lots of cuts and creating workable squares that I could pry out with a crowbar most of the wood came out pretty quick. Then get nasty with a grinder.
You'll also have to remove several inches of the stringers where they butt up to the transom, again the sawzall makes quick work of this. My original wood cored transom was glassed AFTER the stringers were placed in the hull, so the foam in the stringers ends up against raw wood thats where most of my rot was.
If you can handle some glass work I'd add fillets to all the corners of the inner transom then glass from the transom to the hull sides & bottom - before you hand over the boat for someone else to do the main transom work.
When done with the transom it's pretty easy to form & glass the replacement section of stringers.
Does yours have boxed stringers along the chines in addition to the two main stringers? Just curious if they still did this in '79.
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dbiscayne - I appreciate the tips & can report back that that has been the plan as I've been working through gutting this transom. I've used a combination of a circular saw, an angle grinder with a thin cutting disc & a good ol' weighted hammer/ chisel. I've already cut back the stringers & did so with a sawzall type of tool (reciprocating blade).I made some good progress this past week & I'm probably about 40% through the task.
The plan is to have the transom closed off entirely & put a jack plate or outboard motor bracket. Nonetheless I know that the top portion of this original design is exactly 25" from the bottom. Also, can report that there are no stringers along the chines, just the 2 long ones that run stern to bow.
For whatever reason I'm struggling to figure out how to add pictures here but will work on figuring that out.
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Is it a CCP! I’m guessing because it’s a 79 and you’re calling it a 20 that it is, because the Osprey was badged as a 196 in those days. I rebuilt a 200CCP With Armstrong bracket that hit the water a year ago. It’s performing great with a Merc four stroke 150. Good luck on your rebuild. Gotta get so me pictures up.
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mshugg - Yes, its a ccp - 20 feet, 2 inches I believe is what it says on the title.
Any tricks on adding pictures? Every time it says the file is too large :16:
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mshugg - Yes, its a ccp - 20 feet, 2 inches I believe is what it says on the title.
Any tricks on adding pictures? Every time it says the file is too large :16:
Rick or a Bob will probably chime in with directions for posting pictures, but it’s really easy. The first thing you need to do is upload your pictures into the Gallery then copy and paste a link. The CAS Gallery is by far, the easiest photo hosting I’ve ever used.
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If you want to post a pic when you talk about your boat, which you should, follow the instructions here http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0 - don't attach them - you are limited by file size. Uploading them into your "member gallery" is better for viewing.
Spend a few minutes to absorb the instructions. It's really easy. Remember if using a phone to take pics, to hold the phone horizontal with the lens to the left.
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RickK - appreciate the help! Hope this works!
The below are pictures when I first purchased it.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Resized_Screenshot_20200608-145957_OfferUp.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20618&title=original-pictures-2c-pre-restoration&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Screenshot_20200608-150002_OfferUp.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20619&title=original-pictures-2c-pre-restoration&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Screenshot_20200608-150024_OfferUp.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20620&title=original-pictures-2c-pre-restoration&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Screenshot_20200608-150033_OfferUp.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20621&title=original-pictures-2c-pre-restoration&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Screenshot_20200608-150120_OfferUp.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20622&title=original-pictures-2c-pre-restoration&cat=500)
Below are some pictures from the fuel tank & hatch restore - new fuel tank was custom made by Scotts Quality Welding in Homossasa - made some skis out of starboard
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_0249.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20626&title=fuel-tank-replacement-2f-hatch-resoration&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_0943.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20627&title=fuel-tank-replacement-2f-hatch-resoration&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200622_194626.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20623&title=fuel-tank-replacement-2f-hatch-resoration&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200624_182853.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20624&title=fuel-tank-replacement-2f-hatch-resoration&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200702_151611.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20625&title=fuel-tank-replacement-2f-hatch-resoration&cat=500)
Below are just a few pictures once I got under the floor & started working on stringers, cut out some of the rear consoles & began gutting the core of the transom.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200710_173243.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20628&title=floor-cut-out-2f-stringer-repairs&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200720_142525.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20629&title=floor-cut-out-2f-stringer-repairs&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200721_183124.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20630&title=floor-cut-out-2f-stringer-repairs&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200726_154400.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20632&title=floor-cut-out-2f-stringer-repairs&cat=500)
I'll add more as I make some actual significant process - I'm short on time to work on gutting the transom at the moment & it's definitely not the quickest of jobs!
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Wow, lots of progress!!!
I think I would use a Sterling blade on a jig saw and cut the splashwell out carefully so you can get to the transom. You can glass it back together later. Get good measurements across the hull before the cut and attach a 2x2 or 2x4 across the gunwale tops at rear above the transom. It doesn't look like the factory ran the core across the entire transom, that's strange. Personally I would run the new core across the entire transom and tie it into the hullsides and bottom. My $.02
BTW, was that trough to the starboard aft from the console a factory install? I've not seen that in all the years I've been on this site.
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Wow, lots of progress!!!
I think I would use a Sterling blade on a jig saw and cut the splashwell out carefully so you can get to the transom. You can glass it back together later. Get good measurements across the hull before the cut and attach a 2x2 or 2x4 across the gunwale tops at rear above the transom. It doesn't look like the factory ran the core across the entire transom, that's strange. Personally I would run the new core across the entire transom and tie it into the hullsides and bottom. My $.02
BTW, was that trough to the starboard aft from the console a factory install? I've not seen that in all the years I've been on this site.
RickK - I bought it mid June & the majority of the work was done until mid July. For a first-timer, I'm happy at the progress that I did make but wish I had just a little longer before I headed back to work. I'll take your advice on cutting out that splashwell carefully. My intentions at the moment are not for me to build the transom but gut it so that I can hand it off to someone with more experience to do it. I've debated doing it myself but for such an important part of the boat thats going to take time, energy & money... I would prefer having someone experienced & reputable doing that work. The person I've talked to but has not committed to doing the work yet because I havent received a quote is planning to use coosa. As I had said earlier, he's reputable & has glowing reviews from people on this board & others. With that, I want him to close it off too. As for the trough, I can't speak from too much experience but it does look like that was factory. It's pretty functional & I'll likely use a similar setup for the rigging, just havent decided if its going to stay right there.
A question for everyone & I know so much of this varies - how much would you expect this transom job to cost? I've done my research and know many people will say that 4-6k range is likely, especially using coosa... but what if I'm doing the gutting of it & all I'm paying for is basically for it to be built back up. Yes, thats materials + labor but what would be the price mark most of you would be comfortable paying after doing the "hard work" of gutting the core.
Appreciate all & any feedback/information.
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NewGuy your boat looks really clean. It looks like it was never painted, bottom or otherwise. That should save you lots of time and money. My 1979 200 CCP had a similar trough, but since it is glassed to the floor and lacks the screwed down cover (like 170/196), it’s not obvious. I cut mine up and threw it away with my rotted deck.
I have no idea about what to expect to pay for a transom rebuild. I suspect there is a lot of variation depending on where you’re located. You may be able to get an idea by costing out materials, and estimating 15 to 20 hours labor at whatever shop rates are in you’re area.
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NewGuy your boat looks really clean. It looks like it was never painted, bottom or otherwise. That should save you lots of time and money. My 1979 200 CCP had a similar trough, but since it is glassed to the floor and lacks the screwed down cover (like 170/196), it’s not obvious. I cut mine up and threw it away with my rotted deck.
I have no idea about what to expect to pay for a transom rebuild. I suspect there is a lot of variation depending on where you’re located. You may be able to get an idea by costing out materials, and estimating 15 to 20 hours labor at whatever shop rates are in you’re area.
mshugg - When I initially bought it I knew some work had to be done, but didn't anticipate doing the stringers, floor & transom. But hey, the more I dug the more I saw things weren't perfect & I've got the rest of my life to enjoy the boat, so taking the time to do the work right now just seemed right. I haven't got too far into even thinking about paint, one thing at a time as I'm very much still learning as I go. That said, I think a good buff/wax & I should get some shine out of it. Once this transom is repaired & I lay the floor down, I'll start thinking about paint & what I want to do aesthetically.
Another general question - I'm going to re-foam where I initially took out. I was told by the guy down at FGCI that the 2lb would work fine, do you find that to be accurate? Additionally, when you actually pour the foam, would you do so after the floor is in to have good adhesion to the floor and some possible support from the bottom? I planned on doing it that way but cutting out some smaller holes than resealing, but I've seen some videos on youtube of people pouring it first, leveling it off & then laying the floor over it.
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2 pound foam is perfect for flotation foam if you need to re-foam inside your stringers, 4;pound is better there. That’s how she left the factory.
If you foam after the floor is down, you’ll have holes to fill in the deck, plus you’re likely to have voids. It’s probably better to pour the foam before you lay the floor, level it, and if you’re cautious seal it prior to seating the deck. The bond between deck and stringers and the sides is much more important than the foam bonding to underside of deck.
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2 pound foam is perfect for flotation foam if you need to re-foam inside your stringers, 4;pound is better there. That’s how she left the factory.
If you foam after the floor is down, you’ll have holes to fill in the deck, plus you’re likely to have voids. It’s probably better to pour the foam before you lay the floor, level it, and if you’re cautious seal it prior to seating the deck. The bond between deck and stringers and the sides is much more important than the foam bonding to underside of deck.
Mshugg- got it, glad the 2lb will work since I bought it already. Foam inside the stringers are dry so I lucked out without having to re-do that. I just realized which project is yours and I have to say your boat is a big inspiration to what I'm trying to do! Actually, if I could get mine half as nice as yours then I'll be VERY happy!
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It's been a while- I'm back to work & have been waiting on someone to take on my transom rebuild. He's been busy, so I'm being patient. About two weeks ago I believe I got completed my portion of removing the coring & getting the transom down to the fiberglass. I do plan on hitting it with my sander a tad bit more before I bring it in but I think I'm pretty much done with it. Apologies for not being able to get better pictures, my cell phone was dying & a thunder storm was coming & I wanted to pack up all the tools before they got wet!
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200829_134530.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20879&title=transom-update&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200829_134503.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20878&title=transom-update&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200829_134446.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20876&title=transom-update&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200829_134458.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20877&title=transom-update&cat=500)
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Additionally, picked up this leaning post for a steal of a price. I’ve been looking for something like this for a while & even the used were astronomical prices. The stuff I did find that was reasonable priced was obviously nowhere near this & typically in poor shape. It isn’t perfect, it’s going to need a little refurb, it’ll get paint with everything else once its confirmed but I didn’t feel I could pass this up.
Here's my issue now – I originally was planning to narrow my console & my seating/leaning situation from what I had. I wanted to create as much free floor space as possible but this thing is 40” wide. Did I over do it? Will it look silly if I add a much narrower center console? What kind of setups do you guys have?
I believe the original console was just about 40” wide so I know I didn’t go too overboard, but it is different than what I had originally planned for. How much more narrow do you guys think I could go without it looking odd?
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200914_210238.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20882&title=leaning-post&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200914_210143.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20880&title=leaning-post&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200914_210301.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20884&title=leaning-post&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200914_210247.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20883&title=leaning-post&cat=500)
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You have the option to cut a foot out of the center of the leaning post. Rejoining it is the easy part, getting a vinyl person to cut the black out of used material might be tough, if not impossible, especially if you expect them to stand behind their work. Fiberglass is easy to repair.
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You have the option to cut a foot out of the center of the leaning post. Rejoining it is the easy part, getting a vinyl person to cut the black out of used material might be tough, if not impossible, especially if you expect them to stand behind their work. Fiberglass is easy to repair.
I've thought about that, but was thinking that would in turn cause need for upholstery work (as you said) & it would cause the storage boxes on the rear to have to be replaced. Thats a couple hundred bucks on top of the hundreds I spent on this already. I'm thinking if thats the route I feel I need to go, then I'll likely try to sell this one for profit & just buy something else that fits my needs better & doesnt need all the work. I was more so looking to see people's thoughts on the width & the aesthetics/functionality of the console & leaning post differing in width.
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Off the top of my head your beam is 8' (96") and subtract about 6" (x2) for cap and now you have 84" between inner gunwales (tapered inward toward floor).
So add a 40" (plus those grab handles?) console/leaning console to the ould be 44" for the center stuff.
That leaves (84/2 to find center and 44(console)/2= 22 to figure the width from center)- 22" from center each way. So unchanged the pass-by will be 42-22 = 20" +/- each side. Not enough for a comfortable pass especially if you put rod holders on the side of the console.
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Off the top of my head your beam is 8' (96") and subtract about 6" (x2) for cap and now you have 84" between inner gunwales (tapered inward toward floor).
So add a 40" (plus those grab handles?) console/leaning console to the ould be 44" for the center stuff.
That leaves (84/2 to find center and 44(console)/2= 22 to figure the width from center)- 22" from center each way. So unchanged the pass-by will be 42-22 = 20" +/- each side. Not enough for a comfortable pass especially if you put rod holders on the side of the console.
Good math & you're right, that is less than what I would like as a pass. That being said, if I recall correctly the original console on the boat was about 40" in width too. The pass was narrow enough that it was something I wanted to improve on as I began to rebuild, but maybe if I can get something about 38" then it wont look so drastically different than the width of the leaning post & affords me another inch or so from what was originally there. I'm still deciding, fortunately I have the time to do so.
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I went with a CM Leaning post live well for my 200 CCP. It’s 40” wide as is my console. The walks don’t feel crowded to me, though I did cut my liner to get 3-piece construction.
So much depends on your intended use. My boat is set up for offshore trolling and live baiting usually with a crew of 2. If you fish more inshore, casting or fly fishing, or with more people, you may want a smaller console and seating. For offshore, I like a larger console. With outriggers and rod storage on the T top that leaves the cockpit, gunwales and bow clear for action.
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Looking good so far. My thought is if it's not exactly what you want and you can sell it easily then don't go through the trouble of trying to "fix" it. I also agree with mshugg on the console sizing. It all depends on what you'll use the boat for. If I primarily fished offshore I would want something bigger to hang on to and hide behind in the slop, but if you stay shallow and fish more people the ease of passing is nice.
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I went with a CM Leaning post live well for my 200 CCP. It’s 40” wide as is my console. The walks don’t feel crowded to me, though I did cut my liner to get 3-piece construction.
So much depends on your intended use. My boat is set up for offshore trolling and live baiting usually with a crew of 2. If you fish more inshore, casting or fly fishing, or with more people, you may want a smaller console and seating. For offshore, I like a larger console. With outriggers and rod storage on the T top that leaves the cockpit, gunwales and bow clear for action.
mshugg - appreciate the feedback. It's times like these that you'll recognize I'm still very much new at this. For example, I trusted the measurements of the seller & went back to re-measure to be sure of things last night. Turns out the width of the leaning post is 36", which really isnt too concerning to me now that I think about it.
Additionally, just for background - I'm from the NY area & have always enjoyed fishing from the beach, bridges, jetties, etc. I was never fortunate enough to have a boat, yet I did work some retail growing up in boat stores & spent some summers working on docks for boat/yacht clubs. That said, I always hoped to one day have a boat where I could merge the luxury of being out on the water & feed my hobby of fishing.
My life is without a doubt more busy now that I'm a FL resident, so I havent had a ton of time to fish down here but have REALLY struggled to catch anything at all surf-casting. My few experiences on boats down here though were quite the opposite, lots of success. So as far as what I want to do with this boat - I want it to be versatile if thats possible. I've never really had much off shore opportunities but would like to. I also would like to take advantage of the good inshore fishing too since I'm right here in Tampa.
I've got a lot to learn, a lot to figure out. My hope is that I can get this boat versatile enough to do a bit of everything.
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Looking good so far. My thought is if it's not exactly what you want and you can sell it easily then don't go through the trouble of trying to "fix" it. I also agree with mshugg on the console sizing. It all depends on what you'll use the boat for. If I primarily fished offshore I would want something bigger to hang on to and hide behind in the slop, but if you stay shallow and fish more people the ease of passing is nice.
You make good points here. I don't see myself heading out with more than 3 people at any one time. That said, I'd like to do a little offshore & a little inshore, so I'm definitely going to take that into account as I look for a center console to match the leaning post.
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If I were in the Tampa area, I’d be thinking about a hybrid layout with spot lock trolling motor. That would cover you for tarpon, snook and reds inshore, though with the 19 degree deadrise it won’t get into skinny water. It would be awesome for cruising the beach for Tarpon or Cobia, maybe with a spotting tower. Though 20’ is marginal for a tower. You’d also be good for kingfish and nearshore grouper. The run to true offshore grounds is long over there.
You might want to hang out at boat ramps and maybe hit a boat show to check out different layouts and get an idea of what you like before you get locked into a layout. With all the time invested in a rebuild, it’s good to get things exactly right for you.
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Mshugg - I appreciate the feedback you gave me in the last post.
It's been a while since I've posted, I've been super busy with work and just now will start finding some more time to get back to work on the boat. Since I last posted, I got the transom done. Closed it off, completely with coosa at the coring. I took it to Tim at Bluewater Boatworks to get it done and it looks great - I'll add pictures in due time.
As I progress with this build I wanted to get as many opinions as possible in regards to an outboard bracket. I'm looking into porta bracket with the swim platform option. I think it's likely the most functional option and it definitely looks great aesthetically but it is beaucoup $$.
There are so many back plate vs porta bracket threads on all types of forums, so I'm not here to ask preference; rather, ask if with a closed transom can I make a jack plate work? I'm guessing the 14" option would be the most ideal but with a 25" shaft, will I encounter any issues? Anyone have experience with this or thoughts?
As always, appreciate all the feedback!
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For the record - I've decided to go with the Porta Bracket. Model # 171715 - it has a 17" setback and rated for a Max HP of 200.
Since I've last been active on the board, I've decided on going with a newer I4 Yamaha F150 model. I'm still in the process of purchasing but I plan on making it happen.
I'll do better keeping this thread up to date with decisions & progress :thumleft:
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Sorry I missed your last question. You'll be happy with the porta. A little more $$ but they are great once you get used to them and the extra travel
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UPDATE: I've decided to share a lot of the process on IG, here is the link:
https://www.instagram.com/aquasport200ccp/
With that, you'll see how far along the boat has come & more thinking into the decisions on the design.
The porta bracket it being mounted this week & the motor is being hanged. For the record, went with a new Suzuki 200 - I previously planned on a Yamaha 150 but between availability, price & the warranty, I couldn't say no to this Suzuki.
So, I've done some research here and on THT but I cant quite come to any conclusions. I'm hoping you guys can shed some insight into this for me. The portabracket definitely changes the COG of the original design. I made some conscious decisions to try to offset that by doing the following:
-batteries under the center console
-livewell in the leaning post
-fuel tank pushed forward a foot
Now another piece of information before I get to my actual question - I did not intentionally raise the floor but it might be a 1/4"-1/2" inch higher because I went with a 3/4" coosa and a few layers of glass on each side.
Ok, here are my questions - as it pertains to the floor drain & scupper location - do you guys think I need to change the location from the original? I will eventually get the boat in the water, load it up with gas, water in livewell & people to see the water line & make the right decision, but does anyone have any thoughts on the outcome? Any experiences that might help? Thoughts on whether I should keep this self-bailing or not? Any other non-traditional setups for me to consider? All would be much appreciated.
My second question is - should i assume i need trim tabs in this setup? i planned on getting them, figured it cant hurt but also question how compatible theyd be with the portabrackets ability to be adjusted. I'm mainly asking, is the functionality worth it & does having the portabracket have an effect on its functionality?
Appreciate your help!
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Very nice job looks great, can’t tell in pics did you glass over the hull rear corner drains? Any pics of rear deck inside? Looking forward to finish pics