Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 240 Rebuilds => Topic started by: Ulysses485 on August 04, 2020, 10:47:45 AM
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Hello AS Friends,
I am excited to announce that i acquired a 1972 Aquasport 240 Seahunter for a rebuild. The previous owner removed the floor deck, blown motor, most of the inner liner, cabin entrance bulkheads and doors, and console/seating storage boxes, etc. The transom (likely a rebuild in past years) and the foam filled stringers are still in tack (with delamination midship on the outside of the stringers) and it is currently sitting on a dual axle trailer. I am looking to acquire some boat stands to get it set up. Pics to follow.
I believe this is a much needed rebuild for the site and welcome all feedback.
I am currently "refreshing" an 81' 222 and that will no longer go to full rebuild (Phase 2) and will be up for sale at some point.
Thank You
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Sweet, glad you ended up getting it! Good luck
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Cool, congrats on the new hull. Look forward to watching the rebuild.
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Thank You. Here are a few shots from the listing and my visit to see it....
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/Photo_Jul_17_20_08-15-42_AM-17.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20540&title=photo-jul-17-20-08-15-42-am-17&cat=906)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/Photo_Jul_17_20_08-15-42_AM-20.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20544&title=photo-jul-17-20-08-15-42-am-20&cat=906)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/Photo_Jul_17_20_08-15-42_AM-10.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20543&title=photo-jul-17-20-08-15-42-am-10&cat=906)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/Photo_Jul_19_20_01-55-44_AM-2.png) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20546&title=photo-jul-19-20-01-55-44-am-2&cat=906)
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That will be a project! You've got my respect for taking it on. :01_37:
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That will be a project! You've got my respect for taking it on. :01_37:
It sure will be no easy task but slowly it will come together. I wouldn’t have been able to build the confidence had it not been for this website. This will be my contribution to hopefully keep these older classic hulls alive and give others the same confidence I gained through reading 222 rebuild threads. Ok enough of my chatter , here are some progress photos of cleanup I did over the weekend. Pressure washer always impresses me.
These photos don’t show it but it was interesting to see the tabs snapped midship on the outsides of the stringers only. Everywhere else it was in pretty decent shape.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/D1EBB031-1224-46B6-AF5A-C087BEE3F6FC.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20565&title=d1ebb031-1224-46b6-af5a-c087bee3f6fc&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/E63E647E-2BA1-4468-922B-537EF7CAE71D.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20567&title=e63e647e-2ba1-4468-922b-537ef7cae71d&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/8E8B8D92-5DBB-45F4-B15B-D4BAFE4C74EF.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20571&title=8e8b8d92-5dbb-45f4-b15b-d4bafe4c74ef&cat=906)
Next is removing the rest of the liner and cap from cabin/console and getting the hull set up on stands.
To begin the actual rebuild I plan to start with the transom. Once completed, I will cut rectangles out of tops of stringer to leave some structural support. I’ll remove foam and get to grinding. Once a few layers of glass are added to hull bottom, tabbed at outside and inside of stringers, I will foam fill and likely lay coosa “caps” to lay glass over.
Any thoughts for tower/t-top attachments? I’ve seen a few builds instal aluminum angle below deck. What is typical fastening procedure? I would think through to be preferred but how do you access below deck with access panels??
So much to think about but it’s a blessing to be able to think about it and then see it all come to fruition.
Thoughts?
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What is your goal when finished? Center console? Outboard on a bracket/porta? Twins? Tower like the original Sea Hunter? So many possibilities.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/564/68AS_240_Sea_Hunter_broch_1_1971.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2803&title=as-240-sea-hunter-broch-1-1971&cat=564)
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What size console are you going with? If it's wider you'll end up screwing the top to the stringers. If you go with a narrower one you can install a hatch inside which will give you access to through bolt it with backing plates.
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My goal is center console,T-Top (possibly a tower...but leaning towards a T-Top because i like the simplicity), Single 300HP Outboard on a porta bracket (maybe an added swim platform style). I personally like a bigger console in general because I will probably do 50/50 inshore/offshore so the bigger console will give me an additional sense of security (at least that's the way it feels on my dads 74' 23 Potter Seacraft). I am taking pieces that i like from different builds/manufacturers that i like and creating my dream. The S240V from Sheaffer Marine has it pretty much dialed in how i would buy a boat. If money was no matter, i would have wrote a check to Ben Sheaffer and been done but where is the fun in that, right? I find Joy in the process but maybe I am just one of the weird ones that enjoys a good project as a hobby that eventually yields the fruit of labor. However, at the end of the day, I grew up in Miami vacationing in the keys and spent a lot of time spear fishing, lobstering, and bottom fishing so at the end of the day it will be very satisfying to make those same memories with my growing family in a boat i am really proud to say i built with my own hands. However, living in North Florida doesn't give me the same proximity so i want something that can make the 10-50 mile runs offshore during the fall and still be able to bring the family to the keys and still be comfortable.
What size console are you going with? If it's wider you'll end up screwing the top to the stringers. If you go with a narrower one you can install a hatch inside which will give you access to through bolt it with backing plates.
Mike,
I am pretty sure you are right and i will be going into the stringers. Do you know what is typical for fastening to stringer tops?
Thanks for the input guys!
This is the idea....
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/888/1980215_513193162123784_425064518_o.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19343&title=240-sheaffer-pic-2&cat=888)
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Some people glass aluminum plates to the underside of the deck and thread T top fasteners into the plate. Following Dirtwheel’s lead, I chose to glass solid fiberglass pads into my deck for a corrosion free version.
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Some people glass aluminum plates to the underside of the deck and thread T top fasteners into the plate. Following Dirtwheel’s lead, I chose to glass solid fiberglass pads into my deck for a corrosion free version.
I actually really like dirtwheels idea of the fiberglass “blocks” below deck. The top inside measurement is 31-3/4” between my stringers with the outside measuring at 44” so I will likely be in that 6” space at the top of the stringers. I will have to look into the t-top fasteners that you reference.
Thank You
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I will have to look into the t-top fasteners that you reference.
Nothing special about the fasteners. You can either use #14 Screws or 1/4-20 bolts. I used bolts and tapped my fiberglass pads to receive them. There’s a table somewhere that shows impressive strength useing either fastener.
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Progress is progress, right? Chipped a little this weekend and removed the inner transom liner. Terrible work by a previous owner. Made for an easier removal. Hoping to get stands soon before I get at the transom.....
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/8FC5C071-9442-4BFC-9A58-8E4F83E8BDE2.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20611&title=8fc5c071-9442-4bfc-9a58-8e4f83e8bde2&cat=906)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/D016283E-5217-496A-BE3D-9AEA72A136F7.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20612&title=d016283e-5217-496a-be3d-9aea72a136f7&cat=906)
Baby steps right? I did find an owner of one that redid just the transom and sold it shortly after. Looks great from what I can tell and was able to pick his brain and shared some photos so here is the plan.....
These are NOT photos of my hull:
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/724B09AD-0036-4678-8569-EE0001B1934F.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20614&title=724b09ad-0036-4678-8569-ee0001b1934f&cat=906)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/6A9CEAAD-3DD5-41F5-AB41-6CA5C106A192.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20613&title=6a9ceaad-3dd5-41f5-ab41-6ca5c106a192&cat=906)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/84D140A7-A168-43DF-A584-B5E5ECE28FAE.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20615&title=84d140a7-a168-43df-a584-b5e5ece28fae&cat=906)
this is NOT my boat but only of how I anticipate to redo the transom. A taper was done at the hull sides and bottom towards the returns and when the coosa was wrapped, it was tapered back into the hull sides and bottom to keep it flush.
Coosa was installed first and glass wrapped the outsides.
Here was his result...
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/CF22F320-6BC4-46E8-8421-27DB7E7D1FDC.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20616&title=cf22f320-6bc4-46e8-8421-27db7e7d1fdc&cat=906)
I really like the way it was done and welcome thoughts. Aside from a fairing nightmare, I find it to be pretty solid.
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You'll hear some strong opinions (from both sides) if you plan to cut the transom off completely. It looks like it's not completely flat across the back so you may not have many options if you want to raise it up. I personally would not do it but that's not to say that it can't be done. I would just do lots of homework on each option before you commit.
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You'll hear some strong opinions (from both sides) if you plan to cut the transom off completely. It looks like it's not completely flat across the back so you may not have many options if you want to raise it up. I personally would not do it but that's not to say that it can't be done. I would just do lots of homework on each option before you commit.
Mike,
I would agree with both parties depending on the situation (condition of the transom skin). Unfortunately, i am not starting off with a flat transom so just trying to weigh options. I would be ok with redoing it as it is but it looks better flat and will likely be easier to make the cap and extend the rub rail for it.
Thanks for your input! :)
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There are quite a few 240 rebuilds in this form, not a ton, but enough to see what others have done.
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There are quite a few 240 rebuilds in this form, not a ton, but enough to see what others have done.
RickK,
I thought i would be able to gather some info but i have scoured each of the threads individually and have not found enough information regarding the transformation of the transom. I do remember seeing a few 222's that were completely cut out but not sure what support was used to keep everything square.
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Below decks nearly every Aquasport is constructed the same with trapezoidal Foam filled fiberglass stringers and the voids outside of the stringers filled with foam that expands up into the liner. That means that nearly every rebuild, no matter what model, provides useful information.
As for maintaining shape and square, make sure the hull is well supported. This can be on a trailer, boat stands or a custom cradle. After that, the key is to be thoughtful about removing structure. For example, if your stringers are in ok shape, even if you’ll need to replace foam or re-tab sections, leave them in until after the transom is repaired. Similarly, it is easier to maintain shape if you keep one of your transom skins intact while you rebuild the transom. The outside skin is thicker than the inner skin, so in most cases it’s better to rebuild from the inside, even though that requires cutting away the aft 18” or so of your stringers and deck.
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Below decks nearly every Aquasport is constructed the same with trapezoidal Foam filled fiberglass stringers and the voids outside of the stringers filled with foam that expands up into the liner. That means that nearly every rebuild, no matter what model, provides useful information.
As for maintaining shape and square, make sure the hull is well supported. This can be on a trailer, boat stands or a custom cradle. After that, the key is to be thoughtful about removing structure. For example, if your stringers are in ok shape, even if you’ll need to replace foam or re-tab sections, leave them in until after the transom is repaired. Similarly, it is easier to maintain shape if you keep one of your transom skins intact while you rebuild the transom. The outside skin is thicker than the inner skin, so in most cases it’s better to rebuild from the inside, even though that requires cutting away the aft 18” or so of your stringers and deck.
Hey Mshugg,
Staging my build is my plan to keep a structural form by either the transom or the stringers. Regarding the transom, it’s quite different than the normal 170-222s that I have seen with a standard notched 25” transom. See below photo of what I am dealing with for better understanding of my transom situation.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/18AF6D20-AFBD-4A73-AA6F-8E7E4F73D5D6.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20617&title=18af6d20-afbd-4a73-aa6f-8e7e4f73d5d6&cat=906)
The center section is about where flush would be so at a minimum I would need to cut the sides out (because they flare away from the back of transom) but still can’t figure out a glass schedule in that situation. Not sure that I am making sense with that statement. I will get a better photo explaining it.
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You can still keep the outer skin, you will just need to fit the first layer to angled profile. You would build the core out to level and then use flat pieces to build the transom out to your desired thickness. This would require some carpentry skills that are a level above basic, but IMO would be less involved than cutting out the skin. Thickened resin could fill minor gaps. If you’re going with a bracket, you would need to template the profile, but companies like Armstrong build brackets for more complicated transoms all the time.
If you want a flat transom, because you prefer the look, you would need to screw 2x4s accros the top of the transom before you cut out the skin. It would be a good idea to take diagonal measurements from gunwale to chine. They should be equal.
Personally, I like the transom kick out. It reminds me of classic Conchs, Whitewaters etc.
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Depending on the amount of relief in your transom, another option would be to build the transom out to flat with layers of glass.
Here’s an example in an episode of Ship Shape TV(I know. Too much hawking of product for me too). They’re rebuilding the transom of a small Whaler that has a similar kick out using Coosa, and they use glass to bring the transom to level enough to bond in the Coosa.
https://youtu.be/WZWnGLRW0Yk
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To hopefully provide some clarity with the different style transom these 240s came with, I have taken some photos during some demo of the rotted plywood transom and marked up some photos along with a really quick sketch of the proposed installation to create a flat transom. During the demolition, i discovered that the corners were filled with foam (creating a flat condition) and a layer of glass over them for the original plywood to bed to. See photo below:
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/488D0554-C789-4621-829B-6041299C081B.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20678&title=488d0554-c789-4621-829b-6041299c081b&cat=906)
I wouldn’t think the same structure would apply to 550lb motor hung approximately 24” back off the end of the transom so the foam filled corners just doesn’t cut it for me. With that said, i either find a filler material that doesn’t weigh a ton or approach the following plan:
Step 1: glass the flush center section of the transom to a core and core to hull sides/bottom.
Step 2: cut transom corners and taper to accept new tabbing.
Step 3: fair the back end like a son of a gun.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/731785FC-C69A-4C3A-96FB-CA3F4DEE7E8F.png) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20680&title=731785fc-c69a-4c3a-96fb-ca3f4dee7e8f&cat=906)
You can see in that photo where the core material (coosa) would sit.
This is a sketch of what I am thinking. My only concern is how strong the bong is with old/ new glass at the outer skin hull sides. I dont like the idea of breaking the hull mold outer skin bond but i don’t like how the corner doesn’t provide much structural integrity.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/91F1DAC3-4459-43E5-A874-0486AD39A242.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20679&title=91f1dac3-4459-43e5-a874-0486ad39a242&cat=906)
Thoughts?
Thanks everyone!!
Ulysses
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Wow! That’s different than I expected, definitely an interesting design feature. I can certainly see why you would want to rebuild with a flat outer skin. Another option, if you wanted to preserve the bump outs would be to go with your plan, out in the coosa, and fill the outer areas with pour in transom material like Seacast or Arjay.
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Arjay 6011 was my first thought too. You could also fill it with some scrap pieces of coosa and taper the edges down to fit pretty well. I've also seen 16lb density foam that may work.
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My $.02 - since you're not happy with the bump out because you're going to go with a 24" bracket of some kind, I would cut off the bump outs (like you drew) and everything except 2" of the bottom of the old transom skin, lay melamine across the transom and rebuild from the inside. It'll be nice and flat due to the melamine. You'll have less fairing to do on the outside this way also.
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If you do end up leaving the bumpouts, you could go go straight across with the Coosa then fill the voids in the bumpouts with pourable transom compound (poured from the top after installing flat Coosa). It would be crazy strong and wouldn’t add too much weight.
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Haven’t really made a decision at this point but i am leaning towards keeping the outside skin, adding a few layers to the insides and laying coosa/pouring in bump outs. Getting into laying glass might make me change my mind but time will tell. You can see here the rough angle a little better. I think if I lay coosa where the old ply was, tab it to the hull sides, I might able to cut the angles section out if I choose to and tab/taper glass on the outside skin creating the flat transom. However, the midsection or the existing transom doesn’t seem to be in line with the transom corners so that will make it tricky.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/488D0554-C789-4621-829B-6041299C081B.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20678&title=488d0554-c789-4621-829b-6041299c081b&cat=906)
On another note, I enjoyed my new toy the good ol flap disk. Boy does that thing remove material in a hurry (it also didn’t wear down as much as I thought it would....comparable to same grit rotary sanding disk) I chipped at it in past weekends with chisel and was really encouraged with the flap disk. There is some thick filler that I was not expecting on the inside transom skin.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/B7395A18-6E76-4755-8EA2-7F33E0C8276B.png) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20785&title=b7395a18-6e76-4755-8ea2-7f33e0c8276b&cat=906)
Naps are a great time to run out and get some work done. He will soon reap all the fruits of dads labor, :)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/A6369603-DBE7-4938-8027-0ED15948D182.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20784&title=a6369603-dbe7-4938-8027-0ed15948d182&cat=906)
My plan is to do some practice with the 81’ 22-2 fuel hatch and center console mods this weekend with some poly and once we get that running, I’ll get back on the 240. Give me some time to plan and hopefully fish while I build.
On that note, thoughts on poly vs epoxy for structural stuff like stringers and transom? I plan to Gelcoat just about every surface in the boat hence the lean towards poly. I hear vinyl is stronger, comparable with gel, more expensive but extremely sensitive to temps and MEKP ratios (needing to be in the 2-3% ratio).
Thanks for following along.
Ulysses
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Wow! Two boat projects at the same time! :1rij:
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The best secondary bond is epoxy by far - so for structure I used epoxy. Everything below the deck was epoxy, everything above was poly. The bad part about poly is it starts hardening the second it is made, so if you buy a 5 gal bucket, be prepared to use it quickly and hopefully your source of poly has fresh stock. I have no experience with vinylester.
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Wow! Two boat projects at the same time! :1rij:
Check out my recent post. Kinda makes it 3 :13: but the 81' 222 isn't getting rebuilt, just modified. Promised the wife it will get sold once the 71' 222 Flatback is done.
The best secondary bond is epoxy by far - so for structure I used epoxy. Everything below the deck was epoxy, everything above was poly. The bad part about poly is it starts hardening the second it is made, so if you buy a 5 gal bucket, be prepared to use it quickly and hopefully your source of poly has fresh stock. I have no experience with vinylester.
That's what i gather but worried about making the transition at the hullsides and transom. I plan to have a "liner" by means of adding 1/2'' foam sheets to the hullsides but not sure i can epoxy the backside to the hullsides and lay laminated glass over the the frontside for it to be gelcoated. I guess i can live with a painted bilge but not sure on the rest. Thoughts?
Thanks for the input guys! I really do appreciate it.
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I had the same dilemma - I had laminated the transom inside with epoxy and I attached my new sole to the hullsides with epoxy from the top of the sole, which was poly.
The transom was quite a task, so I designed and built a "liner" from poly that I glued to the transom with epoxy. I built a reverse mold of the inside of the transom
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1288.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10517&title=cimg1288&cat=646)
I also wanted to add cabinets in the corners to allow bringing up the wires, hoses, etc to the rear from the console.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1289.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10518&title=cimg1289&cat=646)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1320.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10722&title=cimg1320&cat=646)
Here is a pic of the product before it was glued to the transom and glassed to the cap liner.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1325.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10727&title=cimg1325&cat=646)
Here it is laminated into the inside of the boat.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1390.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11475&title=cimg1390&cat=646)
I created doors for the cabinets
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1728.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14076&title=cimg1728&cat=646)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1726.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14074&title=cimg1726&cat=646)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1732.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14085&title=cimg1732&cat=646)
As for the sole connection to the hullsides, here is a pic of mine - notice there is no cap or liner on the hullsides
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1070.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8815&title=cimg1070&cat=646)
I then flipped the cap/liner back into the boat, traced the shape of floor onto the bottom of the liner and after many cuts and small trimming, I had the liner cut to fit. You can't see where I had tied into the hullsides with the epoxy now.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1131.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9299&title=cimg1131&cat=646)
Ready to be laminated to sole.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1133.JPG) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9310&title=cimg1133&cat=646)
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Rickk this is great information and insight! Great work on that build. I’ll check out your build.
Thank You
Ulysses
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Hey Ulysses, any progress lately?
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Hey Ulysses, any progress lately?
Unfortunately not. However, an addition to the family and some house projects are going to allow me to find a “resting spot” for her out back to lay her down on stands and blocks. I also needed to “get my feet wet” or hands dirty rather with glasswork. I made some progress on the 222 Osprey (fuel tank recore and working on the console rebuild) so I can hopefully get it on the water while I am building this 240.
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I'm sure I can make room if you need a "resting spot" for her, you just might not get her back! And congrats on the new addition to the family!
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I'm sure I can make room if you need a "resting spot" for her, you just might not get her back! And congrats on the new addition to the family!
Thank you. Haha, :85: She is my dream. Unless something out of my control happens, I’ll eventually finish her. Too many opportunities came at me at once and now I’m stuck waiting but I’m not complaining....Kids are fun and underrated. It’s all perspective....eventually they will be able to appreciate the wait and the lesson of being rewarded with hard work.
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Not much progress over the summer on the 240 but planning on procuring some materials for something to happen over the fall/winter/spring seasons. The demo is basically complete with the remaining inner liner removed.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/6BA94F90-B83F-4D67-BD3A-EBDE8FE0AC2D.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22140&title=6ba94f90-b83f-4d67-bd3a-ebde8fe0ac2d&cat=906)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/B6874975-C5F8-4638-AAE9-4AED6138A577.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22141&title=b6874975-c5f8-4638-aae9-4aed6138a577&cat=906)
A little grinding and i will be on my way to building the exterior transom skin to full height...regarding transom skin, I am planning on building it out with melamine MDF board mold to help reduce fairing. The exterior skin is flimsy so it will help keep is square when i am building the skin. I would build the mold to the form of the transom angles (rounding and waxing the corners, fill the transom triangular pockets at the sides with added glass for strength and Coosa pieces. Once flush across from port to starboard I would bed in 1.5 inch 26lb Coosa to the new/old full height transom skin. After that i will I plan to do this once i get the hull level and blocked so i can work right into gutting the stringers and tying them into the transom.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/30FF1591-754A-4891-8ED9-A29553800E7E.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22139&title=30ff1591-754a-4891-8ed9-a29553800e7e&cat=906)
Thoughts?
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I like your plan for the transom. I think the bump outs give the 24s some character so I like that you're leaving them.
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I like your plan for the transom. I think the bump outs give the 24s some character so I like that you're leaving them.
Thanks for the input Mike. The only sticking point that i have about it is that I want a continuous rub rail on the back and not sure how i could accomplish that without a "shelf" on the outside of the transom with a curved transom top. :think:
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With the colder weather not allowing me to Gelcoat the rest of the 81’ - 222 Osprey, I picked up a sheet of 3/4” melamine and started further planning mold for transom and glass layup schedules for procurement of materials. Hoping to get the transom built, stringers gutted/reinforced/refoamed, and tied back into transom by the end of spring. However, that’s all while trying to get the 222v Osprey on the water this summer. We shall see…
Finally found a spot i the yard she can get chime blocked and leveled.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/1752FED9-0BB0-4B2E-9F64-DDFF00A02CE4.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22353&title=1752fed9-0bb0-4b2e-9f64-ddff00a02ce4&cat=906)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/15522AE6-3D3C-407C-8279-1EBAFB925A44.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22352&title=15522ae6-3d3c-407c-8279-1ebafb925a44&cat=906)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/27254594-1E9F-4C11-982B-DABBC169375C.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22354&title=27254594-1e9f-4c11-982b-dabbc169375c&cat=906)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/2A34707C-EAF4-406F-87CF-90BE2DBD1D70.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22355&title=2a34707c-eaf4-406f-87cf-90be2dbd1d70&cat=906)
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Looks ready :thumleft:
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Sittin pretty. Layup for the hull and deck looks solid. What's the plan for the transom?
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Looks ready :thumleft:
Yes sir. I have a car port that i can slide right over her shortly after i finish the gelcoat on the 222 and its go time. :danceSm:
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Sittin pretty. Layup for the hull and deck looks solid. What's the plan for the transom?
I'm going to build a female mold (outboard)to layup the contour of the side corners. There is a flat section in the middle of the transom where the core sat flush and left those corners to be filled with something. I going to lay a few layers of glass within the corners, fill with Coosa and two part foam against an inboard form (flush with that flat part in the middle) and build out what is a flush consistent skin just inside the corners. Then i can bed a 1.5'' Coosa core and tab it all in. Posts 12-26 have some photos that show these corners and how the existing 25'' transom was setup. I'm raising the transom to full height but its going to be a similar concept to the Original.
The closest resemblance that I have seen is this...
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/Photo_Jul_17_20_08-15-42_AM-61.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22376&title=photo-jul-17-20-08-15-42-am-61&cat=906)
Another...
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/20171119_1414571.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22375&title=20171119-1414571&cat=906)
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Spent a few solid hours behind a 4” grinder and dewalt rotary sander Saturday (my body is still recovering) removing old gelcoat and old glass. Got the edges of the existing glass tapered outward so I can tie in new glass skin to full height. My 240lb, 60'' roll of 1708 finally came in and I picked up a 25'' roll of 3610 0/90 Biaxial cheap that I am going to lay in the hull bottom so its go time! :) It’s impressive how good the Dewalt 7” rotary is. I am just about there to start building a mold and laying up the transom to full height. Although, I am not looking forward to having to step my way over the side of the hull to get in and out.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/51BC9149-EF6A-4FD5-8CDC-B3EF41D2401D.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22391&title=51bc9149-ef6a-4fd5-8cdc-b3ef41d2401d&cat=906)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/3243CEE7-BC6F-4035-9094-6FEE8845E39F.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22390&title=3243cee7-bc6f-4035-9094-6fee8845e39f&cat=906)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/906/66E4C174-CD05-4EBF-B8DA-7C3E398C9F04.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22392&title=66e4c174-cd05-4ebf-b8da-7c3e398c9f04&cat=906)
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Looking good.
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Nice. Good to get the heavy grinding done while the weather's cool.
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Nice. Good to get the heavy grinding done while the weather's cool.
Agree. Can’t Gelcoat the 81’ - 222 because of it so it gets me one step forward on this.
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For the record, I have sold this project. However, thread of new acquired project will eventually be started :cheering2:... which will also explain why. ;-)
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For the record, I have sold this project. However, thread of new acquired project will eventually be started :cheering2:... which will also explain why. ;-)
I almost didn't believe it when I saw your name on the for sale ad. The new project better be something special
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I almost didn't believe it when I saw your name on the for sale ad. The new project better be something special
Yeah, it was a hard ad to create considering how much time I have invested …..thinking :think: of what to do...lol The "new" hull should provide a little more straight forward of a rebuild, at least for me and my plans.
I don't know if I would consider it "Special" other than the fact that they are extremely rare as far as I am concerned. However, here she is...
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=15975.0