Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 22-2 Rebuilds => Topic started by: Flyguy on January 17, 2020, 02:55:22 PM
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Started demo on the 1975 22-2 last night. Going to try and take the cap off tonight. I believe we are going to remove most of the liner up to the deck on the bow. The plan is to reuse that section of the boat as it's in pretty good shape.
the keel looks a little rotten near the transom do most people remove the entire thing or just the rotten area. Once removed should I replace it?
Last question for now... What is the best way to get the cement like substance off the top of the stringers?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_09041.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19626&title=22-2-demo-days&cat=500)
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Here is a link to a member that tried a bunch of different stuff to tackle the bonding material on the top of the stringers
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=15284.msg149476#msg149476
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40/60 grit flap disc on a grinder,whatever size floats your boat. Wear your mask with the fan going behind you. Hats off to whoever invented the flap disc, awesome tool!!
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RickK and Fish Head,
Thank you for the information. We did a little experimentation with a flush cut saw and a chisel blade. I used a straight edge to create a one inch border on the inside of the top of the stringers and chiseled up the line and then cut out access holes on each of the stringers. I plan on going back and trying the flap discs first to remove the remaining bonding and if that doesn't work I'll try to get one of the diamond cup discs. I feel like I made some good progress tonight with the stringers. I was also able to get the cap and rub rail detached from the boat (hundreds of screws). Just need a crew of people to safely lift it off now.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_0928.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19631&title=stringers&cat=500)
Thanks again for the help!
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We got the cap off the boat, removed the liner, and cut out everything other than the outer skin of the transom. Still have a little clean up to do. I was surprised at how thin the upper hull of the boat is. I would guess 3/16 thick. I believe the next step will be to remove the deck up at the bow so we can access everything underneath it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1046.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19680&title=stringers-and-transom&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_10441.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19679&title=stringers-and-transom&cat=500)
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What have most people done with the wood stringer that runs up the keel of the boat? I have rot toward the back like all the images I have seen and I'm not sure about the front end of the boat. I am planning on removing the deck at the bow of the boat so I can access any needed repairs at the bow.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_10441.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19679&title=stringers-and-transom&cat=500)
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Thanks for your reply Flyguy. It looks like you’re having fun with your rebuild! For my center stringer I completely removed it. Since then I’ve replaced my hull stiffeners with 1/4” divinycell, glassed 1708 from stringer to stringer down the middle of the hull, and am going to glass in a 1.5” pvc pipe to replace my center stringer.
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Looks like you're off to a good start. I agree the hullsides seem very thin and flexible when everything is off. I added a layer of 1708 to mine but it didn't do too much until I built the cap. Now it's all rock solid. As for the center stringer, mine was still bonded well so I cut the top off and cleaned it out, poured some leftover foam in, and then wrapped some 1700 back over it. I didn't see a point in removing it completely
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That seems like a very viable option too.
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We made some significant progress last night. We removed the front deck, cut the foam out of the stringers underneath the deck. sanded down the transom, and removed the wood stringer from the center of the boat. We also removed the remaining liner material that was left just under the cap. Looks like we have a lot of sanding and grinding ahead of us still. The good news is that I believe that's the last step before we make forward progress.
One question I have is what has everyone done regarding the HIN numbers on the Transom. I imagine I will be grinding it to the point of nonexistence at some point. Are they replaceable? Will the Secretary of state give you a new one? Should I just not care and have a piece of aluminum engraved with the numbers on it?
Thanks!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_10671.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19683&title=emptied-boat-2c-hull&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1071.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19685&title=emptied-boat-2c-hull&cat=500)
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I've wondered the same thing. I've seen them stamped on an aluminum plate and reattached but I never looked up where you can get that done. I actually cut the one out of my transom and epoxied it to a scrap piece of coosa and then glued it back on when I was done. I found this while looking around and it seems like it should work.
http://www.leg.state.fl.us/Statutes/index.cfm?App_mode=Display_Statute&Search_String=&URL=0300-0399/0328/Sections/0328.07.html
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This company made my HIN. https://nationalband.com/hin-tags/
I had two made. One in traditional transom location. The other in a highly classified secret location. I could tell you, but . . .
The plates were high quality stainless.
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Thanks for the link. I may have to get one to mount inside somewhere
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Question: can you grab the top of the hull sides and move them in and out?
The shape of the hull needs to be maintained somehow ... laying a 2x4 (1x2) across the top of the hull, in several paces and driving a screw down into the wood that is on the inside of the hull upper edge - hopefully you took measurements and marked them on a drawing of the boat hull to refer to later.
Once you pull the cap/liner off the hull can move, if not secured. Make sure you secure the shqpe.
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Hey Rick,
Thanks, you can move the side in and out a little on my boat. I have 3 2x4 braces that I remove each work session. Should I be leaving them on during our work sessions?
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Are you going to re-use any of the original cap? I see that you removed the wood at the top of the perimeter of the hull topside. That was one of the things holding the shape of the hullside/top and the cap had a shoe box lip to pull the sides into shape. Before you add glass to the hull bottom and/or sides, the hull shape has to be the way it was designed. So you need to figure out how to reform that, measure and tie it into shape.
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Sounds like I could just pop the cap back on there to make sure the boat has got the proper shape when I lay in that glass. I also braced the cap to make sure it didn't get damaged.
After looking at a bunch of rebuilds I wanted one or two that I could view from start to finish. Tampa Bay Mikes seems like a great example. If you have any others off hand I would love to look them over.
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If you want a "was something, then it wasn't something and then it was something again" you can look through mine. Pack your lunch though :Coffee2:
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After a ton of sanding I feel like we are ready to start moving forward on the transom area. We sanded out all of the thickened epoxy which was all cracked back down to solid fiberglass all around the old transom. We also found some voids in the process. We then cut and waxed the melamine board and started cutting the fiberglass that we will glue the coosa core to.
I still have to do a little research on how to install the garboard drain before we start wetting everything out. Any other thoughts or tips on the process?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_13071.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19897&title=transom-rebuild&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_12301.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19896&title=transom-rebuild&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_12301.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19896&title=transom-rebuild&cat=500)
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That cracked stuff was probably the polyester bonding putty they generously used at the factory. I don't think they used any epoxy in the original layup. Not that it really matters one way or another since it all has to go..
Your melamine looks like it's high enough on top to clamp the glass to. Just lay them all up in order and then flip them over the top. Then you can flip one at a time back over when you start glassing. A light dusting of 3m spray adhesive works great as well to hold glass in place.
How are you securing the board to the back? Clamps or bolts? If bolts use bigger ones or you may lose some lol. I used a bunch of cheap 1/4-20 bolts and broke off two or three once the epoxy kicked. I had to grind them flush and they are now buried under a few more layers of glass never to be seen again.
As far as the drain, Rick has a great how-to that I'm sure he will post for you soon. It is great advice :nSalute:
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Here ya go...
Here is a link to where I explain the thought of the PVC pipe
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133124#msg133124
Here is a link to where I show what is actual problem
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133556#msg133556
Here is a link to Hawgleg's rebuild that shows the PVC pipe installation to keep a drain at the new low point of the boat
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg134262#msg134262