Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 165/170/175 Rebuilds => Topic started by: gw204 on November 12, 2006, 11:31:55 AM
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I decided to take advantage of a beatuiful Nov. day and really start digging into my Aquasport yesterday .
The first thing I wanted to do, was take another stab at getting the motor running. So, I drained the gear lube to see if there was any evidence of water intrustion through the prop shaft seal that was infested with fishing line. Much to my surprise, the oil that came out seemed OK.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6652.jpg)
Once that had drained, I filled with fresh gear lube and reinstalled the drain plugs with new O-rings. Then I sprayed the powerhead with CRC engine degreaser to get it cleaned up a bit. After that was done, I hooked up the battery, put on the engine muffs, connected the portable fuel tank (which now has a new line and bulb, 2.5 gals of high test, 2 oz. of Stabil (a double shot) and 5 oz. of SeaFoam) and pumped her up. To aid the battery I pulled my Jeep around and set up the jumper cables.
I crossed my fingers and hit the key. It turned over like a champ but wouldn't catch. I tried again and got the same thing. DUH, plug in the safety lanyard. So, I did that and still got nothing.
I pulled the air box cover and shot some starting fluid into the carbs. Between that and the foggin oil I sprayed in last weekend, there must have been too much liquid in there and it hydrolocked. Pulled the plugs, turned it over and got it freed up. Reinstalled the plugs, hit the key, she turned over and caught. She didn't sound good, but she ran. After about an hour on the hose, it was idling much better. Once a carb rebuild and general tune-up is are done, I think it will run really well. Compression numbers after a good warm up were 110, 106 and 111. I tried to take some shots of it running, but my camera batteries died.
While my wife went to the store to get more batteries, I attacked the gas tank cover. After cutting the caulking wity my utility knife, I was able to get one corner pried up. This allowed the water in the compartment to begin draining (you can't really see it in this picture though).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6654.jpg)
The tank cover came up after a bunch more prying and pulling. There was a nice mess underneath it...but no fuel smell or gas sheen on the water. The cover was ridiculously heavy so I imagine the core is saturated. The bottom side remained wet for quite a while....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6656.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6657.jpg)
I then proceeded unbolting steering cable and throttle from the console so I could slide it forward to get better access to the tank. Once that was done, I removed the sending unit and pumped the fuel out of the tank and into portable containers for disposal. Then I began cutting the foam and removing the clamps around the tank. From that point, I used a large steel bar I found in the yard a few years ago to gently pry on the tank to try an break it free. After about 30 minutes of prying and cutting, prying and cutting, the end of the tank popped up enough so I could get a line under it and lift it up. Then I slid it right out of it's coffin and out of the boat. The tank is actually in remarkably good condition. I suspect it was replaced a few years ago. There's only a few small pits down near the bottom.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6662.jpg)
So, this is how she currently sits. After removing the console I can begin cleaning the tank coffin. It's really nasty in there...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6659.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6660.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6666.jpg)
And the E-rude. Compared to my wife in the background, it looks like the biggest 60 HP in history. That CRC degreaser caused the paint to peel on the leg...but I didn't care. Somebody gave it a really crappy paint job sometime in the past.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6663.jpg)
After the coffin cleaning comes engine removal and then transom deconstruction.
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Great pictures & narrative! Were you able to find any drain in the tank well?
For cleaning out the well you might want to try Easy-Off oven cleaner. Before & after using the oven cleaner in my 240:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/240_26.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8/JimCT_/240_41.jpg)
Remove the water from the well before spraying on the oven cleaner. Let it sit for a few hours, hose off then powerwash. Be careful about getting any of the cleaner on you as it is a strong alkali. When you're done it'll be clean as a whistle.
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Thanks for the step by step Brian. I have a bunch of hatches I'm gonna have to pull soon for initial investigation and I hope I find no surprises.
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Jim,
I ran my chase wire up through the garboard drain again and it didn't pop out in the tank coffin. Aside from that, I didn't do any investigating. I'm pretty sure there's no drain though. I'll keep you posted.
Rick,
I'm anxious to see what I can find when I get to the transom phase. At some point, someone drilled some drain holes in the two side wells up on the casting deck. I had one filled with water when I cleaned the boat. It all drained, but I don't think it came out the back....
I'll be posting again once I get her opened up a bit more. :D
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I guess I'll just keep this thread running and change the date in the title as I progress....
Anyway, I spent a little more time tinkering with the 170 yesterday. :)
Before the motor got removed, I wanted to take some time to figure out how much wiggle room the outboard needed at full turn to each side while tilted up. I'm not sure how big of a powerplant I'll be putting back on there, but this will give me an idea of how much I could enclose the transom if I stick with a 3 cyl. So, I got out some cardboard, some tape, a bait knife and went to work. The outside edges were easy to trim. The inside one along the motor took a bit more time. Tilt a little, cut a little, tilt a little, cut a little, etc. In the end, this is what I had. It gives me about an inch of space on each side, which I'll more than likely open up more when the time comes.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6767.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6768.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6769.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6770.jpg)
Then I started the Evinrude up so I could fog it before it gets delivered to the new owner this weekend. She took a little coaxing to keep running at first, but I was eventually able to get he stabilized and sprayed.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6772.jpg)
Take that mosquitos!!! :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6773.jpg)
After that, the engine was completely derigged and buttoned up. The control cables, wiring harness, etc. was all removed. This weekend I'll be trailering the boat up to Annapolis to drop off the engine. I figure it's easier to take the whole boat up and pull the motor off on the spot than try to get it off at the house and into the back of my truck.
Next step was busting the remaining foam and a bunch of ice out of the tank well. I tired to be ginger about it since I may reuse the well, but I'm not sure yet.
Lastly, I removed the windshied and railing from the console before my brother helped me lift the console out of the boat. It will get cleaned up and stored in the basement for the winter. Pardon the out of focus pictures....I need a new camera.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6778.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6779.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6780.jpg)
After the motor gets pulled, I'll be starting on the transom. :)
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Good pictures. Be real interesting to see the core when the transom's opened up.
Still no drain for the tank well? AS did a lot of things right but on some of the basics they fell down. Some of the '80's CCP's had no access to service some critical under-deck areas.
Keep the pictures coming & narrative coming...
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That's correct Jim. No drain for the tank compartment. I'm scratching my head about that one too....
I'll keep you all posted. :)
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Hello GW:
Great progress on your boat.
I once tought about opening holes on the two side compartments under the front casting deck of my 170. They constantly fill with water when it rains hard. You mentioned a previous owner did that on your boat.
Did you ever find out where all that water goes when you remove the plugs?
I would assume that it free-falls down to the space underneath and there is some way for it to go to the bilge. The anchor locker drains to the bilge if I´m not mistaken. Let me know what you find out.
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My fish locker had a drain in it ... 'cept it drained into the foam.
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Miguel,
The holes in the side lockers were done simply with a drill bit about 1/4" in diameter. I'm not sure where the water goes, but my gut tells me it ends up on the outside of the stringers. I'm also not sure if there's foam out there, or if there's a method to drain into the main bilge. But I'll be finding out sooner or later...
I'm not sure when I'll get around to cutting the floor out, but if you can hold off on doing drains in your, I'll definitely let you know what I find out.
Jim,
My big locker in the center actually drains overboard. I don't know if all the water drains over or not, but if I shoot water in the drain hole, it comes out a thru hull on the stbd. side. :)
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If you can see water coming out somewhere... anywhere, that's a good start. Some of these AS's were certainly "plumbing-challenged".
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Your findings regarding the final destination of the water in your wells will be of great interest to me.
My center locker is plumbed to drain overboard on the side of the boat. I wonder if all 3 could be plumbed together to drain on on the existing thru hull.
It would be a lot easier to just let it free flow down if it eventually goes to the bilge. Just open a hole and insert a brass drain stuffed with some 5200......
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I wonder if all 3 could be plumbed together to drain on on the existing thru hull.
It would be a lot easier to just let it free flow down if it eventually goes to the bilge. Just open a hole and insert a brass drain stuffed with some 5200......
Sending all three through the one drain is the way to go. That's how my old 20' Grady was. The plumbing should be fairly easy to work out as well. A few extra drain fittings, some junctions, some hose and a few clamps. My right well has an access port inside of it that would probably allow you to get to everything under the deck that you needed.
I personally don't like things that drain into the bilge because any gunk and grime that goes down there most likely won't all make it's way out.
Please do yourself a favor and swap the thru-hull out for a stainless, bronze or chrome over bronze one if it's still the original one. You could be in a world of hurt on day if you don't. A few of the those on my old Grady snapped in half as I was changing them out. :shock:
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Thanks for the advice. I will change it for stainless.
My bilge pumps use stainless over plastic (just for looks), but they are not nearly as close to the waterline and are readily accesible.
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Plastic ones I took out of my boat were in surprisingly good shape after 32 years. My concern was if they received a substantial impact, they might let go. Bronze or stainless eliminates that possibility forever.
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I really like the narrative and the pictures along with it. I look forward to many more in the future. Keep them coming GW204.
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Motor is off....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6819.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6820.jpg)
The outer transom skin was doing some serious moving during removal. I suspect a lot of delamination. Hopefully, I can start cutting into it tomorrow.
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Keep the pictures coming. Looks like a classic transom job in store.
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Well, I finally made my first real cut. :-)
This morning I marked lines on the gunwale, liner sides and floor, broke out the grinder with a cutoff wheel and tore into her. Things didn't go as smoothly as I had hoped though. My plan was to cut around the under gunwale rod lockers, but I didn't realize they ran all the way up to the bottom of the gunwales and were heavily glassed in place. Chalk that one up to poor investigation... :(
So, I had to make a few addl. cuts before I was able to remove a portion of the gunwale caps and liner sides. Those came out pretty easily. Then I moved on to cutting the aft 30" of floor out. I got through the outer skin easily and that pulled up with little effort as it was completely delaminated and core underneath was soaked.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6808.jpg)
Then I had to break out my jig and hand saws to get through the core and bottom layer of glass. I figured they would pop out easily, but that was not the case. I actually had to pry, peel and break them out. Reason being, the floor was extrememly well bonded to the tops of the massive stringers!
Once the floor section was out, I got a good look at the guts of this boat. The stringers are foam filled and are about 6" wide. After chipping off the glass and bedding compound from the tops, I discovered that the foam inside (accessed via the pour holes) appeared to be nice and dry.
I removed a big chunk ( about 14" square) of foam from outside of each stringer and they were completeley saturated. I would estimate each weighed 10 to 15 lbs. :u
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6810.jpg)
After cleaning up a bunch of gunk (including what looked like and old ketchup packet) and small chunks of soggy foam from the bilge, I discovered some of the tabbing on the port stringer had broken free. No big deal as I plan to remove the stringers anyway and either fill with new foam or replace them entirely with new foam or wood cored pieces. I also found lots of delamination of the inner layers of glass on the transom.
I tried to take more pics, but the batteries in my camera died and I didn't have any more on hand. I'll get some more tomorrow and toss up some more pics. :)
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Miguel,
As for drilling drain holes in those front lockers, I say don't do it based on what I've now seen. If you drill far to the port and stbd. they'll drain directly on to the foam on the outsides of the stringers. Sure there's drains in the stringers near the transom, but the foam will soak up all that water before it ever gets to the drains.
Drill too far towards the center line and you'll end up drilling right into the stringers. Guess where that water will go then! :(
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Thanks for the tip. Good to know.
I will just let them fill with water when it rains, which is about 9 months of the year down here.........I wish the gallery was up an running so i could show you some pics of an amazing waterspout, taken from my window on dec 25th..... It was very close to shore.
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Check the top edge of those wells also. Make sure they are sealed against the underside of the casting deck or you'll end up in the same soggy boat if they fill all the way to the top.
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Anybody have any theories why the deck cores were made up of blocks of ply instead of single pieces? Only thing I can think of is that it was to use up scraps. I found the same blocks in the deck core of my 240 and I attribute most of the failure of the deck to that. No strength whatsoever since each block edge is a stress point. Horrible way to do a deck.
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one reason they might have used blocks is that wood expands. If you look closely there is spaces betwen the blocks for expansion. Don't quote me i might be wrong, but that is how we do it here in home construction.
Bill Ray
(http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/9366/623200606sp0.th.jpg) (http://img208.imageshack.us/my.php?image=623200606sp0.jpg)
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Thanks for the tip. Good to know.
I will just let them fill with water when it rains, which is about 9 months of the year down here.........I wish the gallery was up an running so i could show you some pics of an amazing waterspout, taken from my window on dec 25th..... It was very close to shore.
Do you have a photobucket acct? Open one (it's free) and you can post pix there and show them here.
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The small gaps between the blocks are filled with resin so if they take up any water there's zero room for expansion. Once the ply's wet it'll never dry and the rot-clock starts ticking.
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That must suck I guess im glad I live in the desert! The humidity here is like ummmmmm 0%. The only thing I have to worry about is UV, and maybe thats not as bad.
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Ive seen pictures of later model Grady Whites with the same "core". I can only imagine its an attempt stop water migration.
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Ive seen pictures of later model Grady Whites with the same "core". I can only imagine its an attempt stop water migration.
I believe that is correct. I have heard the pieces get oriented 90 degrees from each other to try and offset any paths that water may use to migrated from one piece to another. In this case, it didn't work. Each and every one was soaken wet. :(
The new deck will be made up of marine ply or something like light weight Coosa. :)
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Well, I never got around to shooting any more pics before I continued deconstruction. Yesterday, I jumped in with both feet...
Following Shine's example, I decided to remove most of the outer skin as well. I marked a line 6" in from each side, and 6" up from the bottom. Then I went at it with a sawzall I borrowed from my brother. Much to my dismay, I was having lots of trouble getting through this thing. So, I reverted to grinder-only operation and just cut through the outer skin and pried that off. Once the core was exposed, I could see it was completely soaked and 100% rotten.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6819-1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6820-1.jpg)
I will be laminating a new outer skin by setting up a temporary bulkhead across the transom. I figure the 6" I left all the way around should give me plenty of surface area for the new skin to bond to. I'll also be adding an addl. layer or two of 1808 to the outer skin and will run that up the sides and bottom a few inches. Sound good?
Then I started cutting the inner skin and stringers with my grinder as well. First I popped out the aft 12" of each stringer. The center wood-cored one was rotten and the two outer ones were comprised of soaken wet foam. You can see from the first pic that the glass doesn't completely encapsulate the core of that center stringer. :(
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6837.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6835.jpg)
Next I cut the inner skin into sections using the grinder and was able to pry most of those sections out. Others didn't budge. Then I realized that when the boat was built, the nuts holding the ski eyes on had been glassed over. Once I exposed them and removed the nuts, those sections came out easily.
It was during this phase that I discovered part of the reason the core was toast. About 2" of wood was exposed at the deepest point in the bilge. It had never been glassed over... Poor thing never stood a chance. :(
Anyway, after I had the out skin and most of the inner skin removed, I figured the sawzall could easily get through the core. But I was again wrong. I think that because the core was so wet, as I cut through it things would swell and squeeze the blade. So, I had to figure something else out.
Then it hit me. I've never had trouble getting through anything with this.... :D
(http://www.stihl.us/graphics/chainsaws/MS250.gif)
30 seconds later, most of the core fell out. :)
I then removed the outer most parts of the core by chopping and prying it out. The most effective tool (at least that I had on hand) proved to be the claws on my hammer. Once I had the bulk of it out, I hit everything with a stiff scraper. There's still a very thin later of wood attached to the glass, but that'll come out when it comes time to begin grinding.
Removing the debris from the boat was the last thing I did.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6829.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6830.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6833.jpg)
Mmmmmmm.....look at all this good stuff. :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/gw204/Boat%20Pics/Aquasport/IMG_6834.jpg)
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I think you're committed now!
Look forward to seeing the rebuild. An education in every project.
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Looking nice and cleaned up and ready for the rebuild.
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That was fast :D
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Unfortunately, there will be no more updates to this project thread. My efforts on this boat are being discontinued. This is not due to lack of interest, but because I picked up a 1981 Mako 17 today and will be concentrating my efforts on that rig. :)
Look for this Aquasport in the classifieds forum shortly. :(
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Yea, Mako rocks. I'd go Mako too except I like nicer boats, like Aquasports.
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Yea, Mako rocks. I'd go Mako too except I like nicer boats, like Aquasports.
:lol:
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gw204,
Congrats on the Mako.
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are you going to be selling your aquasport?