Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 165/170/175 Rebuilds => Topic started by: Uncutproducts on August 27, 2017, 08:22:36 AM
-
Patched old tank, only one little leak. Don't have money for new tank now but plan on getting one. Does tank really need to be fastened with hatch there? Maybe just use spray foam around sides? Also thinking industrial Velcro on strips of starboard.
-
Yes the tank needs to be secured. DO NOT FOAM THE TANK IN!
Look up the Pascoe method of installing tanks. A modified version of this is best for our boats.
-
Yes the tank needs to be secured. DO NOT FOAM THE TANK IN!
Look up the Pascoe method of installing tanks. A modified version of this is best for our boats.
Agreed with the above ^^^^. See the link provided below. This brings you to a thread I started a few months ago, prepping and installing a new aluminum fuel tank using the modified pascoe method. In reference to the prep, from a cost perspective it's pretty inexpensive. 2 large tubes of 5200, pvc board, and sand paper. Probably cost me less than $60.
Since you know the tank will need replacing in the very near future, and if you plan on still being the owner at that time, you'll want to skip the step of bonding the pvc strips to the tank coffin. Otherwise you'll have a hell of a time extracting the tank. You'll still want to bond pvc strips to the bottom of the tank to elevate it above the coffin, just skip the next step of bonding strips to coffin. Instead you'll just rely on the squares of bonded pvc board to the tank and coffin to prevent the tank from moving around.
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=14273.msg141575#msg141575
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fuel_Tank_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16292&title=fuel-tank-3&cat=500)
-
That's what I was looking for. Was planning on adhering strips to old tank for air flow. Didn't want to glue down as I figured it would be really hard to remove. Thanks!
Yes the tank needs to be secured. DO NOT FOAM THE TANK IN!
Look up the Pascoe method of installing tanks. A modified version of this is best for our boats.
Agreed with the above ^^^^. See the link provided below. This brings you to a thread I started a few months ago, prepping and installing a new aluminum fuel tank using the modified pascoe method. In reference to the prep, from a cost perspective it's pretty inexpensive. 2 large tubes of 5200, pvc board, and sand paper. Probably cost me less than $60.
Since you know the tank will need replacing in the very near future, and if you plan on still being the owner at that time, you'll want to skip the step of bonding the pvc strips to the tank coffin. Otherwise you'll have a hell of a time extracting the tank. You'll still want to bond pvc strips to the bottom of the tank to elevate it above the coffin, just skip the next step of bonding strips to coffin. Instead you'll just rely on the squares of bonded pvc board to the tank and coffin to prevent the tank from moving around.
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=14273.msg141575#msg141575
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Fuel_Tank_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16292&title=fuel-tank-3&cat=500)
-
I agree with the recommendations to use Pacoe/modified Pascoe for a tank instal that will be ,more or less, permanent. That s what I did on my CCP rebuild. But, since you're only doing a temporary instal with plans to put in a new tank soon, I wouldn't go to the trouble or expense. I would use blocks of wood (maybe pressure treated 2x4s) screwed to the tank coffin to block it in place until you're ready to go with the new tank.