Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 165/170/175 Rebuilds => Topic started by: matt1978E37 on August 24, 2017, 08:15:37 PM
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1979 17
have to do the floor now
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2nd day tear down
Looks like the prior owner attempted a fix on the port stringer
any advice is welcome. I have left a ridge around the perimeter for the new floor. I have also found why it was taking on water so much.
My next steps are to rebuild the stinger (port) with epoxy.
once she is sound i will ad the polyurethane foam..... is that the 4 lbd stuff?
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and day three
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2nd day tear down
Looks like the prior owner attempted a fix on the port stringer
any advice is welcome. I have left a ridge around the perimeter for the new floor. I have also found why it was taking on water so much.
My next steps are to rebuild the stinger (port) with epoxy.
once she is sound i will ad the polyurethane foam..... is that the 4 lbd stuff?
you can use the 4lb. the 2lb is sufficient flotation foam. the 4lb is denser and stronger. Hows the transom looking where the stringers meet the transom? Have you done any test drills in the transom? What else you have planned? You are not exactly full of words on your postings lol
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yeah man sorry .... things are getting crazy out here. trying to do too much at once. I'll add more later
thanks.
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I'd raise the floor up to the top of that molded in trim or lip in the liner. That would help solve any water in the scuppers issues.
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2nd day tear down
Looks like the prior owner attempted a fix on the port stringer
any advice is welcome. I have left a ridge around the perimeter for the new floor. I have also found why it was taking on water so much.
My next steps are to rebuild the stinger (port) with epoxy.
once she is sound i will ad the polyurethane foam..... is that the 4 lbd stuff?
you can use the 4lb. the 2lb is sufficient flotation foam. the 4lb is denser and stronger. Hows the transom looking where the stringers meet the transom? Have you done any test drills in the transom? What else you have planned? You are not exactly full of words on your postings lol
The transom is looking good believe it on not. there is some dimpling around the fastener locations on the upper engine mount locations. but no flex and no drainage from the holes i've opened up.
the glass looks patent around the stingers both port and stb.
I just want it to be solid. ascetically i'm not that concerned. i like how you guys use the pvc pipe to deal with the engine cable run. the engine that was on there is a 115 2 stoke yamaha. the PO had it mounted up high. As in it wasn't resting on the top of the transom. Im assuming he did this because the boat sat so low in the rear. It is my hope that the boat will sit much higher and not have that disgusting list after all is said and done.
this is my first deck job so all info/advice critique is welcomed.
Now off to Turks and Caicos the deliver a 28 foot Scarab to the Dominican Republic.
cheers
matty
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Now off to Turks and Caicos the deliver a 28 foot Scarab to the Dominican Republic.
Wow, I'd like to have that job!
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Now off to Turks and Caicos the deliver a 28 foot Scarab to the Dominican Republic.
Wow, I'd like to have that job!
Umm hell yeah
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there is some dimpling around the fastener locations on the upper engine mount locations. but no flex and no drainage from the holes i've opened up.
No surprise there. I've had the motor mount bolts dimple into the transoms on brand new boats when the first motor was bolted up to a virgin hull, back when I worked for an Aquasport dealer in the 1980's.
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the scuppers. how do i fix these? epoxy?
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more
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last one. the trip to the dominican republic was an adventure. the owner failed to fill the lower unit with oil. i lost the port about 18 miles east of puerto plata.
anyhow happy to be back fixing Lil Bit
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I wonder how the Scarab faired in the hurricanes recently. Those islands got slammed pretty hard. :sign0085:
For the scuppers you can seal the core with epoxy and then install the brass sleeves.
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I wonder how the Scarab faired in the hurricanes recently. Those islands got slammed pretty hard. :sign0085:
For the scuppers you can seal the core with epoxy and then install the brass sleeves.
yeah me too. i have to ditch the boat in puerto plata and get back home to florida (another story).... I had just run a 63 viking to st thomas....... that boat is a total loss!
i see you have a 1971 17. and you have a 115 on it. did you raise the transom? i have filled all holes in mine now and am looking at possible raising the cut out part of the transom up a bit. But what is the benefit of this. when i received the boat it was soggy and sat low in the water. the engine was positioned really high,,,,probably becasue she sat so low. but now that i am fixing the leaks and replacing the foam wont the boast and engine sit more happily ????
See new photos below....
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Epoxy
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more epoy
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More epoxy
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i see you have a 1971 17. and you have a 115 on it. did you raise the transom? i have filled all holes in mine now and am looking at possible raising the cut out part of the transom up a bit. But what is the benefit of this. when i received the boat it was soggy and sat low in the water. the engine was positioned really high,,,,probably becasue she sat so low. but now that i am fixing the leaks and replacing the foam wont the boast and engine sit more happily ????
See new photos below....
I did not raise the transom height, left it at 20". The power head I put on the motor is a v4 60degree - that's all I know - it could be a 90 or a 115. They say only the rebuilder knows for sure.
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Grinding the stringers
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more grinding
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what is the benifit of raising the floor?
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The main reason that folks raise the deck is to improve the self bailing deck. I had a 170, and I used to fish in boots because anytime I stepped aft, water would backflow through the scuppers and flood the deck. The only downside of raising, is you loose some gunwale height.
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Hello,
I put my floor "on top" of the old floor flange when I did my boat. I still have the problem of water back flowing when I go back to leave the dock, even though I raised the scuppers. I use goretex shues...
I have scupper valves, but it still back flows.
//Lars
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Hello,
I put my floor "on top" of the old floor flange when I did my boat. I still have the problem of water back flowing when I go back to leave the dock, even though I raised the scuppers. I use goretex shues...
I have scupper valves, but it still back flows.
//Lars
thanks lars
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some progress. cold tar to the tank
super viscous epoxy to the edges of the old floor, wicked into the end grain showing between the glass layers
almost have the fuel hole delt with
epoxy reinforced the walls of the stringers
now to pour in the foam, and run the PVC tube. 4 inch right?
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progress
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more
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Matt, this looks good. I will be doing the same in another year or two, so I am happy to watch you do it first.
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Matt, this looks good. I will be doing the same in another year or two, so I am happy to watch you do it first.
yeah man watch away. im down in the keys now so the work is on hold. mix that cold tar epoxy well before you mess with it. it is really thick!
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its been a little while. ive found some good time to work on this little 17. an A/C shop is the best when i florida!. the stringers and the bottom hull are almost done.
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I am trying to re use the coffin box. I used the honeycombe stuff and cut out the wood pieces along the edges and bottom.
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im kinda getting close to that part of the rebuild that i need to make some serious decisions. I was thinking of how i could get a little more room in the boat and spoke with Armstrong marine. They make outboard brackets for boats. It will not be the route i take as the 17 foot boats don't benefit fro the bracket. This is from the tech support peps. So im contemplating a jack plate. anyone have any good pointers or anything to point out let me know.
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here im just mocking it up. trying to get an idea of how things should fit back together. has anyone moved the tank all the way forward? Trying to decide if i should build knees into the stern from the transome to the hull bottom.
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still so much work to go! i think i will remove that piece of wood in the bottom of the hull that i was building to afix my bilge pump to. And is it a 3 inch PVC pipe that most use for the rigging? i was looing at the side area to the stb aft for my bilge hose and thru hull to go out of. ideas????
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Boy that is a lot of progress (and a lot of pics). :thumleft:
If you upload them instead of attaching the system will size them automatically - no size limit.
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0
I added a jackplate, a 2" spacer and powerpole mounting bracket and ended up with about 8" of offset. I have run the boat a little without filling the main fuel tank yet that I added under the sole. It ran fine, it was light and porpoised a lot, which I'll attribute to no real weight up front (I planned tank forward and three batteries in the console - my tank is empty and I have 1 battery so far).
Point is, the 170 is sensitive to weight distribution so plan carefully.
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Great work and progress!
I installed a smaller tank, and built support walls for the tank tied in with the stringers. My tank is only 43 liters, but how I use my boat it works perfect. Gas is 8 bucks a gallon here in Sweden... I don't go that far anyway... haha
My smaller tank is located at the forward position of my old bigger tank. I also moved my console 1/2 inch forward, to help with the bow lift during hole shot. Works like a charm.
If it can give you any ideas.
//Lars