Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Trolling Motors and Kickers => Topic started by: wfenton0828 on May 08, 2017, 11:03:44 PM
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Hey everyone,
I have mounted a trolling motor on the bow of my 170, I have also fit my batteries in the console but curious how you ran the wires to the batteries so that the wires are not exposed.
Has any one had experience with this? Can you snake the wires down under the gunwale on the side of the boat? Any advise will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
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When i bow mounted my trolling motor on my '76 170 i ran +/- 8 gauge wires from under console (batteries) and into starboard tray under removable panle. When I bought boat the previous owner had drilled a vertical thru hole from the bottom of recessed rod holder. Then a drilled horizontal hole thru tray. I bonded in a 1/4" pvc tube the length btwn this hole to where the gunwale ends. Deilled a hole thru the vertical gunwale. Snaked wires thru the pvc and gunwale. Used the starboard circular access port to pull wires thru. There is foam that lines the inner hull. I snaked wires behind this and up to bow access hatch. Mounted a +/- terminal block inside the hatch, where the trolling motor + wire and battery + wire on side, - wires on other.
It ain't easy, but wiring a boat never is.
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So you were able to get past the foam without doing anything to the foam? When I looked in starboard access panel, it looked like the foam was going to be in the way.
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So you were able to get past the foam without doing anything to the foam? When I looked in starboard access panel, it looked like the foam was going to be in the way.
Yes. The area between access hatch and bow hatch was not tightly packed with foam (40 year old boat---I was happy to find foam). There was room to run wires between foam and hull all the up to the bow hatch. I mounted a terminal block to the inside of the hatch, tucked away starboard side, using 5200 to bond the back of block to hatch's fiberglass. Ran wire from console to terminal block. I cut the trolling motors neg and pos wires to length, crimped on ring terminal connectors....This way if something goes wrong with motor and needs servicing all I do is unscrew the motors wiring from the block.
I'm not saying running the wires behind the cap is easy. A friend to help is a big bonus. I ran 8 gauge wire, which is fairly tout. So once you start running it along the inner hull wall, you or your buddy can stick your arm through the bow hatch and as far down the hull as you can to grasp the wires. Zip tie or tape both wires together so it makes for an easier grab, along with only having to do this once.
I drilled a through hole on top of bow. Filled the hole with silicone, let cure. Then I drilled through the cured silicone, which at that point has the consistency of rubber. Feed the trolling motor wires through. I then used a SS angled hole cover to keep the wire from sticking straight up. Pictured below.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_8843_copy.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15818&title=img-8843-copy&cat=500)
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Awesome, thanks for your advise. I will be doing this project this weekend and hopefully completing it as well!
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Awesome, thanks for your advise. I will be doing this project this weekend and hopefully completing it as well!
Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
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8 gauge wire is borderline for a trolling motor. Most TMs can pull up to 50 amps, and 8 gauge is usually good to 40 amps before it starts heating up. For example, the minimum circuit breaker size for MinnKota is 50 amps, with the 50lb/12v and 80lb/24V using a 60 amp breaker. 8 gauge would work on a short run of 5 feet or so, but 6 gauge would be recommended once you are looking a 10 or more feet of wire, IMHO. :2Cents:
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I ran 2awg from my console to the front of the boat for the trolling motor and landed on a set of lugs. From the lugs I go to an adapter plug and that plug came with 6 or 8awg but only 2 ft.
My goal was to make it "appear" that the batteries were in the front of the boat. As little loss as possible in the wires.
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When i bow mounted my trolling motor on my '76 170 i ran +/- 8 gauge wires from under console (batteries) and into starboard tray under removable panle. When I bought boat the previous owner had drilled a vertical thru hole from the bottom of recessed rod holder. Then a drilled horizontal hole thru tray. I bonded in a 1/4" pvc tube the length btwn this hole to where the gunwale ends. Deilled a hole thru the vertical gunwale. Snaked wires thru the pvc and gunwale. Used the starboard circular access port to pull wires thru. There is foam that lines the inner hull. I snaked wires behind this and up to bow access hatch.
What is the length of this wire run?
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8 gauge wire is borderline for a trolling motor. Most TMs can pull up to 50 amps, and 8 gauge is usually good to 40 amps before it starts heating up. For example, the minimum circuit breaker size for MinnKota is 50 amps, with the 50lb/12v and 80lb/24V using a 60 amp breaker. 8 gauge would work on a short run of 5 feet or so, but 6 gauge would be recommended once you are looking a 10 or more feet of wire, IMHO. :2Cents:
Your numbers are a little off. 70 thrust TM pulls 42a, 50a breaker for 24v, 8g wire up to 20ft. See link below for minn kota chart.
http://www.minnkotamotors.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=3273
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What is the length of this wire run?
15ft