Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Express Fisherman/ Walkaround/ Explorer Rebuilds => Explorer Rebuilds => Topic started by: DanB on April 06, 2017, 12:52:17 AM
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Finally have the time to get around to some of my to do list on my 225 Explorer done. I would have been completely lost if this forum was not readily available. Well I am still lost I guess maybe not as much :scrHead:.
Both of my raw and fresh water pumps were not working. Thanks to a previous post by Seabob4 I was able to trouble shoot the raw water pump by first checking the voltage, then doing a direct connection from the battery to the pump and finally using a separate set of wires from the pump to the switch. turns out it was my toggle switch. While isolating the wires one of the dang aft float switch wires was so corroded it snapped and I could not reach far enough through the transom door to check it out. Just going to get it out of the way and do a complete rewire since the boat is already twenty years old. Figure it will hopefully be one less thing to worry about in the future.
Today I added a drain hole to help with the sitting water in the fish box and added an access hole so I can get to the bilge pump. Still waiting on the cover for both. then decided to clean the bilge and transom area up before starting my rewire project. I will post pictures and update this post as I go along. I can't tell you how thankful I am for the amount of information on this forum.
Dan
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Looks much better. :thumleft:
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Looks good. Be sure to turn that seacock ball valve now and then. You don't want to have to close it in and emergency only to find it is stuck!
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Thanks Rickk. Hopefully everything will work its way out. Learning a lot from the forum.
Dan
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Looks good. Be sure to turn that seacock ball valve now and then. You don't want to have to close it in and emergency only to find it is stuck!
Thanks for the advice Wingtime. I also plan on doing the same thing you did on the back your instrument panel by combining the wires and having one connector for the positive terminal on the breakers.
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Finally starting to make some progress and get more things done on my to do list. Pulled all the wire in the boat with the exception of the Nav lights which are working fine. There was enough excess wire that I was able to salvage some of it by peeling it back until I had clean copper strands. Some of the wire had to be replaced due to corrosion. I replaced all of the negative wires in the transom area and up front. I am glad that I was able to save some of the original colored wire. Doesn't seem like there is much of a choice in tinned wire other then the main colors listed in the ABYC. I decided to deviate a little and used Ancor tinned white wire for my washdown, fresh water and fish box pump. I just took a red, blue and black permanent marker and made a line on each of the white wires respectively so I am able to trouble shoot if necessary. Worked out pretty well and I have all of the wire colors written down for future reference when working on the boat. I am glad I pulled all of the wire because it gave me a lot better understanding of how things were set up.
Replaced the courtesy lights and live well light with LEDs. Replaced the washdown pump and fresh water pump. The fresh water pump was completely rusted. I also added the blue sea ACR and battery switch. I had to replace the old aft and forward float switches and added an extra float switch to serve as a high water alarm.
The front instrument panel needed work too. I guess considering all the original equipment was going on 20 years it is understandable. Ended up cleaning up the front panel and added new instruments, wire connectors, breakers, breaker covers, switches, switch covers and got rid of the blue connector a few people had problems with in the past. Still have a lot to do but I enjoy it.
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Nice progress Dan.
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:great02:
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Thanks Rickk and Capt. Bob. Hopefully I can keep the momentum going.
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Very good job! I like the white compass too!
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Thanks wingtime. Just happy to be making some progress now that I actually have the time to get things done.
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No big deal but finally got around to rebuilding my trailer. The main concern was getting brakes added. Definitely makes me feel better with the additional stopping power. Added kodiak disk brakes with titan actuator, new axles, springs, bunks, fenders and rewired the lights. PO had the bunk boards mounted on the frame ended up causing some pitting and corrosion. Not sure if adding the pex tubing will help slow down the corrosion from PT board but said what the heck lets give it a try. Decided to just stick with springs vs torsion axles to save a little but at the end of it all the cost difference was minor. Maybe next time.
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Looks good - I put Kodiak stainless on my 230 trailer also - works great.
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Thanks Rick. Actually decided to go with the Kodiak brakes based on one of your original postings, so thank you.
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You might consider replacing the screws/clamps holding the raw water hose to the bulkhead if they are old, it looks like corrosion stains running down from them. The hose has enough mass to snap an old and brittle seacock.
Really nice cleanup, I hope to get mine that nice. Do you happen to remember pr know what the fuse labels said? Mine are all white now.
Sorry for jumping on such an old thread, it came up as new on my browser.
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The main fuse box labels. A bilge, B bilge and one Stereo label. The stereo label is below the red fuse.
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Good monring im new in here i have a question i have an explorer 225 1997. There is a drain pipe next to the batery location crossing by the stringer on it looks like is cloged i try to see if going tru but nothing. I would like to now if i can do a drilling that area or leaving like. There is a small amou t of water there