Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 196 Rebuilds => Topic started by: BOBBY74AQUA on September 01, 2015, 09:11:33 PM
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Started pulling floor from my 1974 Aquasport 19' 6"
Why are there 2 x 4 's on top of stringers? This boat doesn't have much free board, Would like to lower floor. A couple of problems doing this. The floor drains will be to high, big job to relocate them. Boat has a engine bracket full size of transom. Drains are drilled through this bracket. Any idea's?
Thanks
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Was the floor replaced by a previous owner? Most people prefer to raise the floor to make the deck drain better. A lot of these older Aquasports gain weight with age (just like us), and then sit lower in the water. With a couple people in the back, especially with a motor mounted on a bracket, water will often come in through the scuppers. Raising the deck compensates for this. How did it sit in the water before you removed the floor?
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Thanks for the reply, Only on the boat for a test drive. No water came in at the dock. Only had this 2 weeks.
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I'd bet that deck has been redone before.
As many Aqua decks as we have seen opened, I can't recall ever seeing the factory place 2" x 4"s on the stringers and bulkheads.
Look at your first pic and you can see where the factory floor once resided.
Good luck and keep posting your progress.
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Question about floor rail from factory. On the starboard side, mid ship the rail changes height.....Why? Haven't pulled port side yet.
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Pulled this piece front of casting platform, Is it possible the factory floor is smaller than 3/4"?
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Usually it's end grain Balsa on the main sole, maybe 1/2" plus glass. The casting deck on my 170 was 1/2" plywood plus glass.
Not sure why the sole height changed. There was a rigging trough running from the console to the aft starboard side originally, maybe it was part of that? Was the trough there in yours before you pulled the floor out (and found the 2x4s)?
You can see the trough in the lower drawing
http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2727&title=as-19-6-introductory&cat=542
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Thanks Rick, no trough on this boat when I got it. From looking at it, looks like 1/2" plus glass from mid ship to bow. I'll know more when I pull port side. If it's the same then they used 1/2 from mid ship to casting platform. Also, some one heated the rigging tube to make it bend at a 45 to go thru stringers instead of using a 45 in the tube.
That's the reason in the pic, a 2' section is hanging down, use to be part of trough.
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Yup, makes perfect sense - the height in the forward portion was the finished sole height and the drop was for the trough lid that fit in. I have the trough from my 170 and the lid if you want to restore it back to factory. The trough was a way to get your wiring and cables to the aft of your boat without penetrating the floor. These old boats were sealed so no water could get below deck - my 170 didn't even have a bilge pump (it does now). There was no need - any water in went right out the scuppers. The heavier motors today put the original scuppers under water - that's why most rebuilders raise the sole by as much as 5".
They used 1/2" everywhere.
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Rick, What's your thoughts on a 1/2" floor with 2 layers 1708. Need to eliminate the 2 scuppers on boat now, they will end up 5" plus above floor. Considering eliminating them completely. Have drains put in that will drain under deck to there own bilge pump. Had scuppers on my 86 Pro line, worked great. Also enclosing the transom. It's only about 6" above floor now. Safety issue.
Your thoughts.
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I put in a 5/8" plywood sole and glassed it on both sides on my 170. Didn't have much flex and lasted a long time. 1/2" might be ok.
Will your boat be left in the water for long periods of time?
I am not certain that eliminating scuppers is a great idea. If there was a deluge of rain could the bilge pumps keep up? What if it rained for a couple days, would the batteries have enough juice?
Are you going to put a bracket on the boat after you enclose the transom?
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Will try 5/8 glassed floor. The boat will be trailered only. It has a full transom bracket now.
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What is your plan to build up the transom height? Replacing the entire core?
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The Transom is in good shape, would like to add 12" to the existing transom.
Getting ready to pull fuel tank now......thinking this is not the original one......two straps past the tank. I figured the size......it holds 40 gallons. The chaser tube was rubbing against it.
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Hi good to see a 19'6" being restore I am about 80% done restoring one that was all original. I have a good original gas tank if you are looking for one. Also lots of pictures and dimensions. Full replace floor new full night transom rebuilt casting deck and removed the rear liner. Let me know if I be of any help
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Sorry miss spoke my tank is for a 19'1" which was above the floor
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Finally got tank out and the port stringer cleaned up.
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Stringers look in good shape :thumleft:
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Finally completed major grinding of stringers.....now time for Major clean up and glassing. Like Ricks idea of glassing sides of Hull.
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Updated Pictures......Sorry
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Now is the time to consider replacing the fuel and vent lines. If you don't know their history replace them. Put in a set of ethanol resistant hoses. I think I paid $7.50 a foot for both.
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Thanks Rick, The tank is ordered already from Alloy......Great price, will replace fuel lines also. This boat will never see ethanol as long as I own it.
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I still have some questions on the "filler" that you want to put in to fill in the top of the transom.
Will it be removable? Are you going to grind and glass it in to make it look like the whole thing is one piece? If it's the latter I am not sure that is wise because the next owner might think it is a solid transom and assume strength that it doesn't have.
If it is the former, it is a good idea to keep water out of your boat.
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Not sure yet. The low transom scares me with my grandsons on board. I thought a piece of starboard making it removable or dbl. 3/4" and tab it both sides and bottom. Still have to give it some thought. Quite aways before I have to decide.
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Maybe you could do the double 3/4" glassed with a 1x2 glassed on the inside in a couple places and gelcoat everything. Then make a "U-channel" of sorts glassed to the inside of the transom to slide the 1x2's into. Just thinking aloud here. It would give you what you desire and be removable. It'll be heavy though.
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Certainly not as opened as yours but...
Transom opening when I bought the boat.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/PICT0001.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5364&title=pict0001&cat=500)
Added starboard "drop in" that slides into aluminum channel on each side.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00080.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/r-berlin/media/DSC00080.jpg.html)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/DSC00207.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5390&title=dsc00207&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/DSC00206.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5391&title=dsc00206&cat=500)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00074.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/r-berlin/media/DSC00074.jpg.html)
Hinged to allow fold down to tilt motor full up if needed.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/DSC00205.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5389&title=dsc00205&cat=500)
Works very well but I have limited exposure to begin with.
Just thoughts. :ScrChin:
Good luck. :thumright:
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Great idea's Rick, Thank You
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Thanks Capt. Bob