Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 196 Rebuilds => Topic started by: dougals toy on May 05, 2015, 12:52:58 AM
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Now that I made it to the right forum..I see that alot of my original questions have already been addressed...thanks
Are there any specs/pics of original 1985 196's/
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If you look in this area of the gallery you will see that we have info on '84 and then '86. You'll see that the '84 had a 196 and then in '86 the 200 was born (note that the length was still 196 though) http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=567
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Thanks..nice pics... I think im continuing with the previous owners start on the rebuild, took a skill saw cutout and left 11/2 lip , I'll put the new deck on top of the lip, when I build up the stringers should i consider camber? Any thoughts?...Thanks
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If you're talking about a little crown in the floor, you can make the stringers slightly higher so the water sheds to the side if you desire. I didn't bother with this on my rebuild.
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yeah, I didnt know if it would be beneficial or not....So generally there is no foam in the center of the hull? or aft? (accomodate engine weight?) These are probably dumb questions, I have 0 experience with this and need all the guidance I can get...thanks
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The benefit of the crown is to help guide the water off the deck to the sides - it's your choice.
The general location of foam in these hulls is outboard of the stringers and inside the stringers. If the hull is one of the early models you might find foam in the center forward also because the fuel tanks were above deck inside the console. If you haven't already done so, spend an hour or so looking through the rebuilds in this forum and the other forums that have some 80s model rebuilds.
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Foam inside the hull does not provide any buoyancy as long as the boat is not sinking. In fact, a foamed hull will sit lower than a non-foamed hull due to the additional weight of the foam. This is because buoyancy comes from displacing water, and since the foam is in the inside of the hull, it doesn't displace any additional water. Many people add foam under the entire deck so that the boat will not sink. Many do not.
As far as a crown in the deck, I am doing it like Rick did - flat deck. Many others have put a slight crown in the center (maybe a 1/4"). The important thing is that there isn't a low spot in the center for water to collect in.
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Ok, great info..is there an easy way to determine water logged stringers, mine look fine, no obvious signs, no holes, no delamination, outside of drilling a couple holes in the bottom of the stringer, I hate to cut open the top if they are good....
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I would think that if you know what the boat and everything on it is supposed to weigh, you can take it to a weigh station or dump and find out what it actually weighs. Otherwise, I'm not sure if there is some sort of moisture meter that will work. I think the most common approach is to drill a hole low in the stringers in the bilge area and see what comes out. And then glass over the holes.
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To check for water logged stringers, take a 1 inch hole saw and drill a 1 inch hole at the inside stern part of the stringer as far down to the hull bottom as possible. Save the hole cutout to reglass back in the hole when done. let it sit for a day or two with the bow as high as possible to let any water run to the back, check daily, and if no water showing after a few days you should be good to go, just glass the cutout back and proceed. :13: As far as the crown on the floor my rebuilt 19-6(1982) has none and drains well. a little tilt when parked lets it all drain out the scuppers ( which were raised some) while under way a little throttle will let any water on the floor run to the back anyway.
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Thanks again for the info...Did all newer( 1985) 196's have a bow rail?
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My 1982 19-6 has one (I did modify it some)
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I think it was an option.
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Thanks..removed the gas tank yesterday, it was original, with a new deck going in not sure how to place/attach it. Any ideas, pics or suggs?....
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Are you asking how to attach the deck or the tank?
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I guess now that I've been edukated..I'm asking how to attach the coffin to the new deck... that had been not so delicately removed from PO...are drain plugs a good thing for the coffin?
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If you left a lip around the coffin box when you cut it out, say an inch or so, you could route out the area of the deck where the lip will sit and just glass it back to the new deck. :13: If you didn't leave a lip, it will be somewhat more difficult. You will have to find a way to get it attached to the new deck. You could attach it to the deck before the deck is installed, or put braces under it to hold it in position so it can be glassed to the new deck. As far as drain holes in the coffin box, mine had 1 in the stern part of the box, not sure if it was there from new, my new box under the floor has drains in it.
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Thanks gman, most of it has a lip around it...so I will be able to set it as well as support from the bottom...I guess my main concern is cracking where box meets the deck...
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If you can get a couple of supports under the coffin, and you get good adhesion to the new deck, thinking 2 or 3 layers of tabbing glass and resin, you should be good to go with not to much worry about cracking. I would recommend starting with 4 inch tabbing and then go for the first layer of cloth on the entire floor( bring the floor cloth to the inside edge of the coffin) then come back with 8 inch tabbing before your last deck layer, leaves you with 4 layers around the coffin lip, should be pretty strong. :great02:
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gottcha...thanks, now to find a gas tank.
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Check out" greatlakesskipper" website they have a bunch of different size tanks, poly and alum. I put a 55 gallon tank in mine in place of the 45 gallon original. Went with poly as well. Prices aren't to bad..
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I guess now that I've been edukated..I'm asking how to attach the coffin to the new deck... that had been not so delicately removed from PO...are drain plugs a good thing for the coffin?
The coffin was originally mounted with aluminum angles screwed into the deck, and yes, a drain is a good thing. The coffin has one angle on each side with 4 screws and another angle at the front with 4 screws. There is a drain in the bottom rear of the coffin that was originally plumbed overboard through a drain in the deck that matched up. There is a cutout in the stringer on the starboard side that allows the drain line to reach the outer hull, and a through-hull fitting for overboard drainage.
So you could get some 2x2 aluminum or stainless angle and drill holes to match the ones on the coffin, then screw it down to the deck with some good 5200 bedding and sealing. That's the way they did it originally and it seems to have worked well for most folks.
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OK,
I was going to post pics showing GF's description above but.....
I'm guessing you are asking about mounting the tank compartment (aka tank coffin) as opposed to what we call the "coffin box" on a CCP since you have an Osprey. I have pics for a CCP. There was no factory installed, above deck "coffin" on the 196 model Osprey.
Gman's mounting suggestions seem to be the info you seek.
Good luck and post up a few pics of your progress. :thumright: