Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Anchors, Power Anchors (Power Pole and Talon) and Windlass => Topic started by: duff170 on December 14, 2014, 11:17:37 AM
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Hey This is my first post here. I have a 1986 170 Aquasport with a 70 hp Yamaha. I also have two bait boxes on the back I got from Shipoke boat works a few years back. I recently got a used Powerpole with the intention of mounting it off the back but the more I look at it I don't trust the boxes to withstand the pressure of holding the boat in place. Especially in a current or with a passing boat wake. Has anyone tried this?
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Hey Duff,
Welcome, I know Eugene's bait boxes and they're built better than the original factory boxes, Scotty (gran398) has a pair of them on his 22-2 and they are stout compared to my originals on my 22-2, we used to dive off of them when I was a kid, climb on them everything you can imagine but.... there is no coring in either version and I'm thinking those stresses from a power pole will eventually spiderweb and crack that 1/4-3/8" thick glass box at the mounting points. I'm assuming you lag bolted the boxes to the transom, just like the factory did or did you through bolt the top attachment points above the floor height? Eugene will lend his advice as soon as he reads this I'm sure. I know you dont have a lot of room for an alternative mounting point without the engine cowling hitting the powerpole when turned. If you have a jackplate on the engine, I have seen adapter kits that allow mounting it to the jackplate that have enough offset to allow the engine to turn without hitting it and still may clear the bait box.
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Check on the Powerpole site and look at the many brackets they offer so you're not mounting them to anything but a bracket. I have a 6' power pole and I am adding a CMC jackplate to the boat. I could mount the PP where I had it before but I want to explore adding it to the side of the jackplate so I'm not drilling more holes through my new transom. I'm not having much luck with "negative" brackets - the PP is supposed to be mounted 4" above the bottom of the hull - and all the brackets they offer are for the newer 8 and 10' PP I'm thinking, and are "positive" brackets meaning they "curve up" from the mounting point - seems they forgot about us that have the older models.
Supposedly CMC offers a way to mount one to the jack plate instead. I might have to take a road trip and bring it to them and have them figure it out.
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I've seen some of the go-fast tourney bass boats with powerpoles mounted on the jackplate. I have not looked closely, but assume they are using the ones from PowerPole: http://www.power-pole.com/Items.aspx?co ... es&key=cat (http://www.power-pole.com/Items.aspx?code=AdapterPlates&key=cat)
Found a pic:
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m82/ ... Mount2.jpg (http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m82/toledobasser/Bass%20Boat%20Accessories%20pics/PowerPoleJackPlateMount2.jpg)
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Ya I have the boxes thru bolted on the transom and lagged in the bottom. Eugene definitely did a good job on the boxes and they are strong enough to stand on or climb up but cant see them holding the weight of the boat. I have a Atlas jackplate with an offset I am going to put on in the next few months which I do have a side adaptor for but it doesn't look like it will fit. If I put it on the offset plate it will hit the box, if I put it on the actual jackplate I think it will hit the motor. Guess I wont know till I try
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"I'm in the same boat" so to speak - I have to figure mine out sooner or later also. I may have to get one fabricated or bite the bullet and overdrill holes through my transom and fill them with thickened resin to drill the proper size holes for the bolts. I just drilled some oversized holes through the transom for the lifting eyes and it took quite a while and a lot of effort to drill through it. I'm sure my spade bit is toast after 4 holes. Maybe I need a 3/4" drill - I still have to drill the engine mounting holes and I am not looking forward to drilling them with my 1/2" drill and spade bits.
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Hey Duff,
Welcome, I know Eugene's bait boxes and they're built better than the original factory boxes, Scotty (gran398) has a pair of them on his 22-2 and they are stout compared to my originals on my 22-2, we used to dive off of them when I was a kid, climb on them everything you can imagine but.... there is no coring in either version and I'm thinking those stresses from a power pole will eventually spiderweb and crack that 1/4-3/8" thick glass box at the mounting points. I'm assuming you lag bolted the boxes to the transom, just like the factory did or did you through bolt the top attachment points above the floor height? Eugene will lend his advice as soon as he reads this I'm sure. I know you dont have a lot of room for an alternative mounting point without the engine cowling hitting the powerpole when turned. If you have a jackplate on the engine, I have seen adapter kits that allow mounting it to the jackplate that have enough offset to allow the engine to turn without hitting it and still may clear the bait box.
As Farley mentioned I have Eugene's transom boxes, he did a nice job. I use mine for quick planing ability, flotation and storage.
Farley makes a good point that, without coring, either box would be inappropriate for power-pole mounting.
However, it is my opinion that you could core the inside of the box on all four sides with divinycell, nidacore, or plywood and it would be plenty strong for a 170. And of course you'd only have to do one box, starboard side :salut:
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Has anyone ever ran a 170 with only one box before? I'm just thinking worst case scenario
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Bad idea.... I would think it would list on plane, the boxes add stern lift.
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
What Farley said :santa:
Gonna roll and dig to the opposite side.
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Ya I had only one for a few weeks on my 196 I had before my 170 and it didn't seem to make a big difference but I wasn't sure for the 170
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I still have to drill the engine mounting holes and I am not looking forward to drilling them with my 1/2" drill and spade bits.
Rick do yourself a favor and get a deep hole saw.. Those damn paddle bits dull up quick and can wander on you and cause trouble..
I have a 3 inch deep 1 inch hole saw and that little jewel was worth every bit of the $13 I paid Home Depot for it. It didn't even get upset when it found a nail (it's found more then 1 :shock: :oops: :oops:)...
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Another good idea Dave - you're on a roll 8)
I think I have one already but will check, I have about every other size made from 4" on down. Not sure of the depth though.
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Learned that trick Rick when I had to put a frost free sill cock in. For you southern boys that don't have to worry about stuff freezing up, it's a hoze spigot that has the actual valve seat on the inside of the house sill. The outside of the cooper tube/sleeve in my case was 12" long. The paddle bit walked so bad the tube would not go through. Had to go over size and pre drill a guide block to start the hole.. That was a rather unpleasant experience. :evil:
A bubby of mine whined about how slow the hole saws were because the teeth always filled with chips.. He had never heard of drilling a clearance hole with a twist drill along the inside of the hole circumferance.. What a differance that makes! I don't think he ever used a sharp holesaw either.. :roll: :roll:
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A bubby of mine whined about how slow the hole saws were because the teeth always filled with chips.. He had never heard of drilling a clearance hole with a twist drill along the inside of the hole circumferance.. What a differance that makes!
Are you talking several holes or just one? I myself, have never heard this before. Sounds like a great tip. :idea:
Thanks.
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.. He had never heard of drilling a clearance hole with a twist drill along the inside of the hole circumferance.. What a differance that makes!
I've never heard of this trick either. So can you explain more about this? How many holes - to many and the whole plug falls out and then you have no center hole for the guide bit.
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.. He had never heard of drilling a clearance hole with a twist drill along the inside of the hole circumferance.. What a differance that makes!
I've never heard of this trick either. So can you explain more about this? How many holes - to many and the whole plug falls out and then you have no center hole for the guide bit.
For a one inch hole saw I use a 3/8 inch drill, 2 holes about 180 apart. The biggest twist drill that you have that will not weaken the middle just makes it go faster.. As far as weakening the hole center, I never really worried about that because once the saw is in and cutting the the skirt of the hole saw keeps it going straight (at least that is what I want to beleave :mrgreen: ). I scar the hole (just start it) so the OD of the hole is well defined. Then sink the twist drill holes so they cut into the hole saw kerf, if it doesn't matter I go OD to OD, that way the teeth of the holesaw pass right over the clearance hole, this gives the best chip clearance. A handy air hose to blast at the saw helps keep the clearance holes clean too.. If it does matter I ease up and have the twist drill just hit the ID of the hole saw scar..
Hope this helps! The Old Man taught me this as a nipper and I thought it was a standard shop trick, glad to pass it along! :salut: