Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Engines & engine woes => Topic started by: CMG241 on August 05, 2014, 07:41:42 AM
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http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... 19&cat=633 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=5760&title=1998-catalog-pg18-19&cat=633)
Hey how do I know how much oil is left??
Thanks
Chris G
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Chris,
I'll assume you are talking about the remote oil tank level. :scratch:
Since you have a Johnson outboard, you do have a remote tank that feeds the VRO system. I'd guess it is located in the stern either in the port or starboard storage. The battery(s) should be there also. The fill is up on the transom gunnel (or just to the rear) but.....
I don't/haven't own this model but we have an active member who does and I'm sure he can give you the exact shinny on it.
(Craig to the white phone).
Having owned several OMC products with the VRO system, I am familiar with the tank. I always placed a mark on the outside of the tank with a magic marker so that I could have a "visual" reference to the oil level and consumption (still do it on my Yamaha tank).
Gives you an idea on usage and a little sense of security that the system is working.
Good luck. :thumleft:
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The oil tank is located just inboard of the transom door. The fill cap can bee seen on the back of the transom just inboard of the transom door. To check the oil tank level open the little service door located under the front of the transom door. The tank should be just inside that door. Sometimes it is hard to tell how much oil is in there due to poor lighting, staining of the tank etc. If that is the case I just stick a small flashlight right up against the side of the tank. This will light up the tank clearly showing your oil level. I always try to keep mine above half full.
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Just as Wingtime and CB said - tank is just inside transom door on the port side. On my 2001 model, the fill is on top of the trasom cap, not on the back side. I'm not sure where it is on a 98, or if there even is a remote fill location. I ended up disconnecting the remote fill and replacing it with a 0 degree rod holder. Now I just use a funnel with a hose to fill the oil tank. The reason I did this is that I got water in the oil tank a few years back, and you can guess what happened. Not 100% sure the fill cap was the problem, but it was the most likely culprit. Anyway, back on the subject - on a bright day, with the door open, I can see the level in the oil tank. Otherwise I use a flashlight. The Yamaha gauges also have a low level indicator to alert me if the level is low, but I always keep it well above that.
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That yamaha oil gage only goes down if the oil in the little tank on the engine goes down,which means that your big oiltank isn't pumping and keeping it full.....go ahead ask me how I know :pale:
OMC does make a gauge and sender
http://www.amazon.com/Tank-Sending-Leve ... B00L5O8KJI (http://www.amazon.com/Tank-Sending-Level-Gauge-175482/dp/B00L5O8KJI)
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Thanks much everyone, this outboard thing is all too new to me. i will look and see if I can view the tank - while it has an idiot light for low oil this is one issue I think I would be an idiot to trust to a sensor. Wife and I took the boat out last weekend and it performed really well.
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Thanks again, checked out today and can easily get the tank/pump out at end of season for rebuild or worst case replace in the name of security. I see a ball pump, must be for when replacing the filter to re-prime the oil line to engine??>
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Thanks again, checked out today and can easily get the tank/pump out at end of season for rebuild or worst case replace in the name of security. I see a ball pump, must be for when replacing the filter to re-prime the oil line to engine??>
No, you should prime this bulb each time before cranking the motor, just like the one in the fuel line going to the motor. Inside the oil tank is a flat filter that fits over the tube from the top of the tank. You can take the fill line out and when pulled with the key on once the float drops your low oil light should illuminate. You can then pull the whole assembly out and pull the filter off and clean. I used plain gas which seemed to melt any of the deposits in and on the filter. You need to get a factory service manual not a Seloc! These motors are very simple to work on and most repairs can be done by you and save some moola!
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Thanks again, checked out today and can easily get the tank/pump out at end of season for rebuild or worst case replace in the name of security. I see a ball pump, must be for when replacing the filter to re-prime the oil line to engine??>
No, you should prime this bulb each time before cranking the motor, just like the one in the fuel line going to the motor. Inside the oil tank is a flat filter that fits over the tube from the top of the tank. You can take the fill line out and when pulled with the key on once the float drops your low oil light should illuminate. You can then pull the whole assembly out and pull the filter off and clean. I used plain gas which seemed to melt any of the deposits in and on the filter. You need to get a factory service manual not a Seloc! These motors are very simple to work on and most repairs can be done by you and save some moola!
Not to be a "so called expert" but.....
Once I pumped the bulb originally, I can't recall pumping again. Is that in the manual?
I do know about keeping the filter clean (don't ask). :oops:
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CB, that is typically the case with OMC oil tanks. Squeeze the bulb MANY times initially to get it primed, then forget about it...
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Seems odd to place the oil squeeze bulb in a pain in the arse spot if meant to be primed with each use, no? and thanks slvrlng on how to test the idiot light, will take the question out of my head..
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Seems odd to place the oil squeeze bulb in a pain in the arse spot if meant to be primed with each use, no?
On the OMC engines I've owned with a VRO system, the remote tank was mounted in the center console (though I doubt it matters where it's located) and I purged the air from the tank to the VRO pump with the bulb (oil line disconnected). After squeezing (actually someone else squeezed) and I didn't see any air bubbles coming out of the line I hooked it to the VRO pump. I followed that procedure when I cleaned/replaced the filter but didn't use the bulb after that. I would imagine that due to the ID of the line and the viscosity of the oil, the pump would hold the prime with little effort.
Take Lew's advice about getting a factory manual for your motor if you haven't already. It will be the best source of information on your motor and should clear up any question on the oil bulb use.
Good luck.