Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => Flatback 22-2 Rebuilds => Topic started by: Spot on May 23, 2014, 12:08:36 PM
-
I have been viewing this site for the last year. I have seen some very nice builds and have to note that this site has been a great resource. I am not much for posting but now that I am closer to the end I thought I would put some photos out of the build.
I started out building a 1972 Mako 22b. After gutting, coring the cap and replacing the transom I decided that I was a little unsure about dialing in the weight distribution since I had not seen many mako's with porta brackets. The bottom line was that before I was too heavily invested in the mako I wanted to move on to the original boat that I wanted to build, an AS FB. Anyone want a mako that has the hard work done? I will be posting it for sale once this project is complete.
I found a hull that had most of the structural work completed and the owner was looking to move on from the project. After checking out this site and the owners well documented build photos I felt comfortable enough to purchase and finish the build. The boat is very solid and likely heavier than I would have done, but the price and work was good and best of all it saved me time.
As I found out there was more work left in this boat than I had originally thought. Regardless, I am nearing completion and happy to have much of the tedious fairing behind me.
To date I have sanded, and faired hull sides with epoxy, extended the keel, covered hull with barrier coat, primed and painted, flipped the hull, cut in below deck storage, epoxied and faired cap and interior of boat, built a casting platform with gutter, built a fuel access box, rebuilt a console and glassed into boat, and cut in and glassed aluminum plates for tower legs to bolt to.
I am currently finishing the paint of the interior and cap and will have porta bracket and motor mounted this week. I am going with a Suzuki 175. Next is mounting the tower, wiring and rigging. My goal is to have this wrapped up in the next few weeks.
Attached are a few photos of the build, I have uploaded all my photos to my photo gallery on this site if anyone is interested in viewing.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_0120.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9810&title=fairing&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_0114.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9809&title=fairing&cat=500)
Beginning the hull fairing after sanding
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_0296.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9814&title=img-0296&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_0391.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9815&title=img-0391&cat=500)
Hull faired and coated with barrier coat
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_0467.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9825&title=img-0467&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/March_31_2014_066.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9827&title=march-31-2014-066&cat=500)
Hull painted with awlgrip whisper gray on sides, and mattehorne white on bottom
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/March_31_2014_077.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9828&title=march-31-2014-077&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/March_31_2014_081.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9829&title=march-31-2014-081&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/March_31_2014_084.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9830&title=march-31-2014-084&cat=500)
Boat being flipped. It was worth the $200 at the boatyard for my peace of mind after the painting of the hull. Only suffered one small scratch where carpet pulled out while it was on its side.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/March_31_2014_087.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9832&title=march-31-2014-087&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/March_31_2014_088.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9833&title=march-31-2014-088&cat=500)
Right side up on new trailer. Some faring of interior started with mock up of console location.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/036.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9840&title=036&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/0751.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9843&title=0751&cat=500)
Primered sides and transom cap and bedded aluminum backing plates. Installed cleats for deck. Installed hatch.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/051.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9850&title=051&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_0655.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9851&title=img-0655&cat=500)
Bought hatches at surplus store then molded clay on edges and wax with pva wax and used as mold for gutters. Clay was a mess to get off hatches and out of finished gutter.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_0657.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9853&title=img-0657&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_0674.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9854&title=img-0674&cat=500)
Finished deck with hatch and fuel access box. I did not account for the slope of the gunnel cap when I cut the opening in the fuel access or else I would have followed that line.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_0676.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9855&title=img-0676&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_0677.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9856&title=img-0677&cat=500)
Console glassed in and primed along with fuel box.
That's it so far, I will try to do a better job of posting progress along the remainder.
Spot
Admin Edit: I changed out the links for you - Spot, copy the lower link when you copy and paste.
-
Lookin' good Spot. :thumleft:
Good luck.
-
:salut: Nice work
-
Looks like you're smoking now. Results are very nice. :salut: :salut:
19 pics in one post and the server didn't even pause :cheers:
-
Looks like you're smoking now. Results are very nice. :salut: :salut:
19 pics in one post and the server didn't even pause :cheers:
:thumright: :thumright: :thumright:
-
thats going to be really nice when its done. Im curious about your mako but i wouldnt be a buyer for it. a year or 2 ago, and maybe we couldve talked about it.
-
awesome :thumleft:
-
Thanks - I also wanted to ask a question of a couple of the FB builders.
1) I have a 32" transom, what is the recommended mounting height for a porta bracket?
2) Can I screw trim tabs directly into an arjay poured transom or do I have to bed screws with epoxy?
Thanks
-
Thanks - I also wanted to ask a question of a couple of the FB builders.
1) I have a 32" transom, what is the recommended mounting height for a porta bracket?
2) Can I screw trim tabs directly into an arjay poured transom or do I have to bed screws with epoxy?
Thanks
i believe Eugene told me with a 17 inch setback porta bracket(which he highly recommends for the FB), the top top center hole is 27 inches up from the keel... i am not 100% sure on that though...
should be fine on the trim tabs...
-
Thanks for the comments. 27" looks right on the transom so I will go with that.
I spent the better part of the holiday weekend finishing the prep work for painting and then painted the interior with two coats of awlgrip. I then taped out the nonskid areas and will be applying the awlgrip nonskid. I am applying this dry with the air sprayer method. Wet out the area with paint then spray a dry mix of non skid additive from a siphon gun evenly on deck. Pull the tape and then paint the last coat over all areas. I did a few test applications and it looks like I will be going with a combination of coarse on gunnel and transom caps, and extra coarse on decks. Although labeled coarse and extra coarse they do not seem as rough as when I've used silica.
After this comes the mounting of hardware. I'll post once I make some more progress.
One question - I will be running my discharge for my bait well either near the waterline or just below(to stay below deck). I assume I will need a check valve for this? If so does anyone want to recommend a good one? I am a little concerned that if there is not enough head pressure that the valve may not open as needed and cause the livewell to back up. Is a check valve recommended? Thanks
Spot
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/thumbs/IMG_0681.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9909&title=img-0681&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/thumbs/IMG_0682.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9910&title=img-0682&cat=500)
Painted with awlgrip mattehorne white.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/thumbs/IMG_0683.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9911&title=img-0683&cat=500)
Taped off and scuffed with 80 grit. Ready for non skid.
-
Re the baitwell overflow...
It is an inch and a half hose, then at the transom a bronze inch and a half seacock (stainless handle) then bronze thru-hull. No check valve, just straight thru. Low as possible in the transom, well below the waterline. No check valve.
When you're not using the livewell, shut off the seacock. Even if your hose cracks/leaks, you're still protected from sinking with the seacock.
(http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j331/gran398/IMG_1317.jpg)
-
as scott said, no check valve needed. bronze thru-hull with bronze ball valve...
-
Just wrapped up a few tasks on the boat and thought I'd post. I taped out the non-skid and tried to shoot the dry spray on but ran into issues with the siphon feed clogging. Changed direction to using the shaker method and this worked fine. I went with the coarse and very coarse from awlgrip as the fine was too slick. I only did the cap as I do not want to mark up floor yet while we are rigging.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_0684.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9912&title=img-0684&cat=500)
Cap with nonskid applied. Will get better picture when I pull it out from under the cover.
Started laying out the transom and installed porte bracket pump, Bennett pump, trim tabs, porte bracket, underwater lights, thru-hulls, cleats and rod holders. Just left Nick's Creative Marine with a Suzuki 175 bolted on. I will start rigging this weekend and wiring next week.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_0707.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9981&title=img-0707&cat=500)
Rigged with bracket and ready for the motor.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_07141.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9986&title=img-07141&cat=500)
Motor being installed
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_0717.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9984&title=img-0717&cat=500)
Motor installed
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_0718.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9985&title=img-0718&cat=500)
Motor, bracket, tabs and lights
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_07201.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9988&title=img-07201&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_0719.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9987&title=img-0719&cat=500)
I have a couple questions for the FB builders;
1) I just weighed the boat with motor and bracket and it comes to 3,100 lbs, not sure if this is heavy or not but given this weight and that I will be adding a full tower what prop size should I run? Nick's is recommending a 16 x 18 and will trade out until I find the right one but I would like to see where everyone else is at with this.
2) I am getting ready to start rigging, I will be putting on a second station in the tower. I was told that mechanical controls (i.e. morse type) would be the most economical. Based on the current state of the budget it looks like mechanical is the way to go. Can I use any mechanical or specifically do I have to use the morse brand? Also, are there any good links or is anyone willing to provide a good tutorial on how to rig the second station?
Thanks
Spot
-
man that think looks awesome!!!!! :thumleft:
how high did you end up mounting the bracket(keel to center top bolt)?
-
I agree, looking great! Just out of curiosity, what did you do about deck drains? I don't see any thru hulls below the deck other than your livewell drain :scratch: .
And sorry I can't answer any of your questions, but you are way ahead of me!
-
Thanks - I took your advise and went with 27" top of bracket to bottom of keel. This gave plenty of room to mount the rubrail and still had a little room between the two. The range of travel looks good, getting the prop as high as I'll need it and deep enough to dig down when I need it.
As far as the deck drains, I plan on going through the transom. I have initially cut through my transom cap, I'll mount flush scuppers then run 18 inches of 1 1/2 inch hose to thru-hulls. I do not plan to cut thru-hulls until I see where the boat sits with the motor on. If It sits too low, then my back up plan is to run from scuppers in transom cap through hull bilge discharge (1 1/2 inch) behind the shut off valve. We'll see how this works but I would prefer the 1st option as 3 inches of discharge sounds better than 1 1/2 inches.
Just thinking out loud as I'm posting this, but I may use PVC valves and PVC inside transom cap instead of hose so I can have shut offs if it gets too much water in during rough seas? I'll let you know what I decide on.
Any ideas out there on the finished weight of some of these builds? Just curious how the 175 will push it.
Spot
-
3100 with trailer maybe? Hull was originally 14?? dry I believe.
Ive got a like new set of Morse dual "S" controls you can have cheap if ya want em...
Gonna have to come check her out soon!
-
I believe that PVC is generally not recommended for below waterline applications (if that is where you are planning on using it). You would be better off installing a stainless, bronze, or Marelon ball valve on the thru-hull and then hose from there.
-
Exactly.
Last thing you want is that PVC cracking/busting up in a seaway. It would flood the bilge FAST. And you'd never even know it, the deck would be dry as a bone.
Bilge would flood to capacity, then the hatch covers would start flooding the deck from below. Nighty-night :cry:
-
Dirt, I'll call you on the morse.
Gotcha on PVC, this was only being considered above deck as a shut off valve.
Thanks
-
:thumright: :thumright:
Gorgeous boat Spot :thumright: