Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Electrical => Topic started by: h20ryder on May 17, 2014, 07:33:10 PM
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Tried to fire up my 89 Evinrude 200XP today but not getting any spark. The OEM harness was cut off at the very end but I was able to identify most of the wires with my manual.
Can anyone explain how the cut-off switch, neutral safety switch, and kill switch wiring works?
Which parts should be grounded and which should be receiving power?
Is there a way to bypass all of these just to test fire the motor?
I'm guessing that circuit is cutting power to the coil so no spark.
Black with yellow was connected to a smashed kill switch.
Brown was hanging loose under the old binacle throttle control.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/photo_2-21.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9750&title=photo-2-21&cat=500)
Also, there is one Brown wire not connected to anything hanging next to the main harness plug with a bullet connector.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/photo_1-21.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9749&title=photo-1-21&cat=500)
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Kill switch (I assume when you say "cut off switch", you mean turning the key off) and ign off work the same way...a ground is applied to the coils. So with the key in the off position, if you checked continuity between purple and black, you'd find it.
Neutral safety simply interrupts the start circuit.
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Hi Bob
I have the engine on a stand in my garage with a flush tank below the outdrive so I don't really have a key switch or any of the other normal wiring or gauges.
The wiring harness looked like it was ripped out when I got the boat, nothing connected, so I just did my best to label the loose wires.
I connected the main starter 12v+, starter Ground, Red 12v for Ignition (powerpack power?), Black for harness Ground (powerpack ground?), and Yellow with Red to a momentary switch for the Starter (makeshift key).
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/photo_1-3.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9751&title=photo-1-3&cat=500)
When testing the Purple wire it runs my electric fuel pump. The Purple with White wire turns on the Fuel Primer.
Maybe the powerpack is bad that's why I'm not getting spark?
If the lanyard switch wire is cut then it should be open and not grounding preventing power to the coil?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/photo_3-1.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9753&title=photo-3-1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/photo_2-3.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9752&title=photo-2-3&cat=500)
My manual has 2 different schematics I'm going off and they both show a "cut-off switch." Schematic 1 above is confusing me with all the parts attached to the brown wire circuit.
Thanks
Steve
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Just thought I would post the solution in case anyone has issues with their looper motor.
Turns out all my problems were from 1 broken pin in the little rubber Amphenol connector in the Black/Yellow wiring.
Learned these motors shut down half the cylinders by the Shift Interupter switch that is connected to the shift linkage on the motor. That same circuit is tied to the lanyard kill switch (Black/Yellow wires). If it is bad you can turn the key to OFF and the motor still runs on 3 cylinders because it isn't getting grounded. Seems like a wacky design to load 3 cylinders with unburt fuel to make shifting easier, seems like it would be a fire hazard? Tested the diode and all 3 Amphenol connectors and probelm solved.
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Keep in mind the shift interrupter is only engaged for a brief moment when you are actually shifting gears just enough to slow the RPMS and the lower load on the gears to allow you to shift. So I doubt there is much fuel build up in that brief moment.