Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Electrical => Topic started by: mvandale on May 13, 2014, 07:42:57 PM
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I'm new to this forum so I hate to ask another nav light question but I have to.. I have a new old boat 96 225 Explorer. The NAV lights only come on when the switch is in the Anchor position. The first time I tried this even the anchor light came on. After trying a few things now the anchor light doesn't work but in the Anchor position the nav lights still come on, but not when NAV is selected. I am not good at wiring so I'm not sure but I'm wondering if the wires are connected to the switch correctly. If I can figure how to attach an image small enough I will..
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This is the switch with wires connected.
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The drawing on the left is way your switch is supposed to be wired...
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/Proline%20website%20pics/Wiring%20Diagrams/NavSwitchWiring-1.jpg)
Note the anchor light feed terminating to the upper right terminal on the switch, then jumping down to the lower right terminal. This allows the anchor light to come on when the NAV lights are on (switch flipped up), but allows only the anchor light to come on when switch is flipped down.
The Nav light feed terminates to the lower left terminal, it most likely will have another feed piggybacked on it, that would be for your compass back light. I believe '96 panels had a separate switch for gauge back lighting...
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Forgot to mention, you have toggle switches, so there is no indicator light. Ignore the ground reference...
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Excellent diagram SB :salut:
mvandale, welcome aboard!
Seabob is a professional rigger with a TON of experience. He has built, rigged, and supervised Aquasport production for many years. We are fortunate to have his expertise here.
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Scotty, as many NAV/ANC light switches as I've wired, you'd think I'd know my drawing by heart now...nope. Every time I do another one, I still pull it out...
Thanks, Bud! :salut: :salut:
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Scotty, as many NAV/ANC light switches as I've wired, you'd think I'd know my drawing by heart now...nope. Every time I do another one, I still pull it out...
Thanks, Bud! :salut: :salut:
Amen!! I still draw it out every time I replace a switch also :roll: :roll: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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This is the switch with wires connected.
MV, don't "attach" pics. Upload them to your photo gallery here which will resize to the right size. Follow the directions here viewtopic.php?f=7&t=111 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=111)
BTW, it almost sounds like your switch has been installed upside down. "Nav comes on at anchor".
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Well thanks, Loye, I don't feel like such a dumba$$ now...
The second method I drew, which is something you won't see on Aquasports, uses a SPDT switch and a diode, as opposed to the more common DPDT switch and no diode. Nothing but a cost saving here for the builder. DPDT switches are around $3 more than SPDT switches. Throw in a 2 cent diode from China and the builder gets a tidy little $3 more on the bottom line per boat...
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do you have to use a nav/anchor switch or is there a way to make it work with 2 different switches without using a 3 wire anchor light? im having trouble with that. trying to use one switch for anchor and one for nav but my anchor switch feeds back to the nav light and turns it on too. i know why. i just cant figure out how to wire it differently. i have a 2 wire anchor light now.
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Jason, a 3 wire anchor light works 2 ways. With 1 feed, it turns on half the light when running (along with the nav lights), when the anchor light switch is thrown, the whole light comes on, indicating anchored position. Install a diode in the lead from the anchor light to the nav lgt switch. You want the silver end of the diode to be oriented towards the anchor light switch. Current can flow from the nav lght switch, but it can't flow from the anchor lgt switch...
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what rating diode?
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Something that would handle 12 volts and 1-2 amps should work fine.
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thanks. might be doing this tonight.
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Get one at Radio Shack. The NAV/ANC circuit is typically protected by a 5A breaker, so like Bob said, but I'd try to get as close to 5A as possible.
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Thanks seabob4, after you confirmed my switch should be connected differently from what I had, the drawing you included suddenly made more sense even for me. I switched the wires around and everything works great now.
And thanks RickK for the instructions on uploading pictures.
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:salut: :salut: