Classic AquaSport
General Aquasport Forums => Aquasport Discussion => Topic started by: meanjean on April 22, 2014, 08:53:57 PM
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Have an 02 AS Explorer. Certain parts on the boat have silicone or something like it around trim pieces, rub rails, screws hatch covers etc. For example, there is a plastic insert where the throttle is mounted. This plastic insert was sealed around the edges with something to keep water out. See picture below,
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/boat_0052.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9401&title=boat-0052&cat=500)
What is it? What should I use to repair, replace the missing silicon?
Figured the AS experts here should know what to use. I have used 5200 before but it takes a long time to set and I don't think whatever this stuff is should be replaced with 5200.
Thanks
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What should I use to repair, replace the missing silicon?
Silicon should be used where the is a chance of damage to the component itself or where you may what to remove it sooner than later.
I've have very good results with 4000UV and would also recommend it's use. Be sure the component surface can tolerate it.
5200 is for parts you don't plan to disassemble anytime soon. Not for use in the helm area where you may change out parts on a regular basis or need to do R & R.
Good luck. :thumleft:
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Agree with Bob in relation to silicone. GE makes some excellent silicone, can pick it up at HD for around $5-6 a cartridge.
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I used white silicone to reseal the side panel on my Explorer. As already mentioned if ever have to take it apart again in the future use silicone.
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Boatlife's Life-calk and Life-Seal are excellent and popular options as well. :thumleft:
http://www.boatlife.com/
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My understanding is that 5200 will yellow over time if exposed to UV rays. Another reason to go with 4000UV if you go with one of the 3M adhesives on the topside.
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Agree with Bob in relation to silicone. GE makes some excellent silicone, can pick it up at HD for around $5-6 a cartridge.
Tidbit for the day: GE invented RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) silicone. Before that, you had to heat rubber or other elastomerics to get them to solidify. It makes sense GE makes a pretty good product today! :thumleft:
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Boatlife's Life-calk and Life-Seal are excellent and popular options as well. :thumleft:
http://www.boatlife.com/
Thanks, I did see that in the local store marine section. Ill read up on it and give it a try.
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Boatlife's Life-calk and Life-Seal are excellent and popular options as well. :thumleft:
http://www.boatlife.com/
Thanks, I did see that in the local store marine section. Ill read up on it and give it a try.
Again, just be careful with what you're "sealing". Polysulfide and polyurethane will damage regular plastics.
Good luck.
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X2 on the life caulk.
I used the silicone rubber to seal my console down when I recored my tank hatch. After 2 years I resealed over the life caulk with regular clear silicone. When I pulled the console the other day the silicone was fairly easy to remove, not so with the life caulk. Far, far superior adhesion than the silicone. I will probably use it to seal around the gauges but might not again around the console. I mean that stuff was stuck!
http://www.amazon.com/Sealant-Silicone- ... tlife+1150 (http://www.amazon.com/Sealant-Silicone-Rubber-Cartridge-Clear/dp/B001449SFY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398359991&sr=8-2&keywords=boatlife+1150)
CB is correct! Stay away from the ones he mentioned for your purpose!
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My two cents is i will NEVER use silicone caulk on a boat. I have see way too many Home Depot/GE silicone failures. I don't know what it is about it but I don't think it works well for marine use. Maybe it's too soft? Maybe it breaks bond with too much vibration? In don't know but I don't trust it at all. I exclusively use 3M marine products. 4000uv if it exposed to the sun and is above the water line like for simple sealing like accessory screw holes and of course 5200 for more serious seal ups like thru hulls or below water line seal ups. I would bet that life caulk is similar but you get what you pay for. A $5 tube of homies caulk is not near the same as a $18 tube of 5200. I caution the notion that 5200 is an adhesive. It's sticky and yes I have pulled gel coat with it, but most of the time it comes off moderately easily with a razor blade, chisel or scraper. I use it like caulk and not as an adhesive.
I also like working with 5200/4000uv. Yes, it is the nastiest stickiest stuff on earth, but it cleans up sooo nice with an acetone soaked rag. I've left really nice clean caulk lines around anything I've used it on.
Again, I may be wrong and you may disagree but that's my experience for what it's worth