Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Engines & engine woes => Topic started by: meanjean on April 21, 2014, 09:49:51 PM
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Doing maintenance and found kits that come with the upper housing only, upper and lower pump housing, gasket only.
Why would you not buy the entire kit with upper and lower? Am I missing something? Seems the price is marginal and you get all new impeller parts?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Pump-Kit- ... e3&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Pump-Kit-Mercury-XR4-105-135-140-150-175-200-220-HP-18-3319-46-42579A4-/271439308515?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item3f330b26e3&vxp=mtr)
Before I order, just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.
Thanks
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The price differential is marginal. Buying the whole kit gets you brand new housings AND wear plates in the housings, so get the complete assy... :thumright:
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most commonly done is upper housing kit. if you have time, pull the old pump and look at the lower housing. if the sealing surface is still nice and smooth, i wouldnt bother with the lower. mine was boogered up so i replaced it.
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The price differential is marginal. Buying the whole kit gets you brand nAND wear plates in the housings, so get the complete assy... :thumright:
That's what I was thinking. I'll buy the whole thing. I'm already in there may as well replace it all.
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It's kinda like brake calipers when you have a bad puck or something. You can get the caliper re-build kit for like $17, or get a WHOLE re-manned caliper (which includes all the parts in the kit!) for $19...no brainer...
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Kind of late to the party on this so for what its worth.
I replace the entire assembly on every third waterpump change. Do the entire kit replacement at 300 hours, otherwise just the housing, gasket and impeller every 100 hours. If you dont know the engine history then replace the entire kit now for a new baseline. The lower assembly gets you new driveshaft seals and sub gaskets. If the engine has been run in saltwater and the bolts were not coated with perfect seal or grease they will be stuck so you will need to heat the housing around the bolts with a propane or MAPP gas torch to break them loose. There will be heavy encrusted salt in the counterbore pockets where the bolt heads are that needs to completely removed and blown out with compressed air prior to removing the lower base assembly or you risk having crud and salt fall into the driveshaft bearing below the housing. Pretty straightforward otherwise.