Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Family Fisherman/Dual Console/Sport Rider Rebuilds => Topic started by: BradleyD on March 24, 2014, 08:48:01 PM
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Now that the games have begun I thought I'd share some progress with my 19-6 as I'm giving her a makeover. First things first I've gone over her all over searching for any structural problems that need attention. My initial inspection before buying didn't reveal anything alarming but it is a 35 year old boat so it was a gamble either way but for $2,700 I figured it was worth it. Poking around this site has definitely showed me where to look for any trouble areas and further inspection has showed a boat in surprisingly good shape with the following results. For the picture lovers bare with me as a lot of times I get too involved and don't get any pictures of what's going on.
Drilled holes in all the suspect areas of rot (over drilling old sealed holes in the transom, around scuppers, etc.) and found one small area around the upper, port side of the transom with a small amount of dry rot and appeared to be a result of a small crack where the top cap meets the transom that was not properly tended to. I used a 24" long drill bit from the top drilling down to see the extent then poured the area with git-rot and buy me some time before a replacement is needed. Other areas were great and filled them with thickened epoxy when done.
Over drilled some existing holes in the floor where a port side pedestal seat was mounted and found a small amount of soft coring. Not even enough to see a flex under your feet but drilled out the area and filled with thickened epoxy.
Drilling through the fuel tank coffin, I drilled out a series of 1/2" holes into the center stringer and found much of it was damp with one section about 6" long that was very soft. Dug further into the soft area and dried everything out as much as possible then filled everything back with thickened epoxy.
Using a couple of the holes I drilled in the floor and the access for the rigging in the back I couldn't find any waterlogged foam on the outside of the stringers. I still want to check the stringers but need to create a bilge access first.
Feeling comfortable with the structural integrity of the boat it was time to give it a serious bath! Much of the gel coat is in serious need of some TLC and the floor is badly worn and will likely do some nonskid later. Wanting to worry about asthetics later I did buff one area and think she has a little beauty left in her.
Before...
(http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo131/BradleyDel/20140312_133414_zps5ed95c53.jpg)
After...but still think the seats are going to have to go
(http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo131/BradleyDel/IMG_1009_zpsac784c24.jpg)
Before...
(http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo131/BradleyDel/20140312_133439_zps19655e64.jpg)
After...
(http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo131/BradleyDel/IMG_1015_zps1e68c58a.jpg)
Small area buffed...
(http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo131/BradleyDel/IMG_1037_zps0b74a14e.jpg)
Now for the mechanical side of things. The motor runs great but just to be on the safe side a friend of mine who's a certified Yamaha mechanic came over and was able to give the motor a clean bill of health. The trim cylinder has a very minor leak and he's getting the parts for it but that's it. The only real problem with the motor is that it's a 25" shaft on a 20" transom so I fabricated a set of static jack plates with some channel and plate I had around to get it up where it needs to be. Still need to get them installed though.
(http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo131/BradleyDel/IMG_1021_zpsad1edd2f.jpg)
I can deal with some rough gel coat on the floor but this rigging is driving me crazy!
(http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo131/BradleyDel/IMG_1032_zpsf54d10ac.jpg)
The parts are coming to get it straight and should be able to clean that up in the next couple days. Also got new control cables since the existing ones are a little too short and binding when turning hard to starboard and are starting to break and corrode.
And as far as she runs...just fine. Took it for a quick run at the local lake and run great. Definitely more motor than this boat needs but a little extra ponies won't hurt. Topped out just over 40 at 5200 RPM's. If the RPM's don't come up to 5500 when I raise the motor probably going to swap the 19 pitch prop to a 17. Even the little guy got to drive a little :D
(http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo131/BradleyDel/IMG_1029_zps70cf03b3.jpg)
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I never realized you were so young BD. Who's the dude without a life jacket behind you? :mrgreen:
She's coming along. :thumleft:
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I never realized you were so young BD. Who's the dude without a life jacket behind you? :mrgreen:
Hey, I age well 8)
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Nice find should clean up nice. Keep the pictures coming on your progress.
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Good looking boat Brad! Amazing what a little clean up will do for an old girl, huh?
And great to see the little dude at the helm! Perfect little bilge rat too, in a few years... :thumright: :thumright:
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Bilge rat for sure but wouldn't want it any other way.
Speaking of bilge...I haven't seen any pictures that I can tell but I want to install an access plate to the bilge and bilge pump. Is there an easy way to route the discharge hose to the side of the boat towards the stern? With the floor directly on top of the stringers I'm not sure where it can go.
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Was able to get most of the rigging back in civilized order this week. New cables and battery switch tucked under the gunnel. Tomorrow I should have the fuel tank fabbed up and hopefully new fuel lines run...need to get this guy installed since the weather should be clearing up and winds dying down soon.
(http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo131/BradleyDel/IMG_1048_zps9b55c81e.jpg)
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Young man, you have some rigging experience! Very nice!! :salut: :salut:
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Like the install of the Blue Seas switch. Too bad you can't get the batt tucked away somewhere...under the console?? :wink: :wink:
Is that one of those Minnkota battery boxes?
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Thanks, it's greatly appreciated. I'm far from the most organized person in this world but messy cables/wires drive me crazy. I did think about mounting the battery in the cubby hole in the cabin that tucks under the main deck and get the extra weight off the transom but was a little more involved than I wanted to get at this time. Probably be a good winter time project next year.
The box is by Shoreline and similar to the Minn Kona but about half the cost. It's nice being able to hook a charger to the external lugs and not have to open the box.
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Easy peasy when you get around to it. 2 GA runs fwd, clear up your entire aft deck...'cept for the separator. I guess in the old days people didn't mind having this stuff out in the open...
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I guess in the old days people didn't mind having this stuff out in the open...
In the old days there was no other place to put it. My tank was inside my console so it left zero room to store anything additional inside it.
I've fixed that problem during the rebuild.
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Speaking of bilge...I haven't seen any pictures that I can tell but I want to install an access plate to the bilge and bilge pump. Is there an easy way to route the discharge hose to the side of the boat towards the stern? With the floor directly on top of the stringers I'm not sure where it can go.
This is how I installed bilge access and bilge pumps on my 19-6
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4328&p=27148&hilit=bilge#p27148 (http://classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4328&p=27148&hilit=bilge#p27148)
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I remember that, Jess. Damn, 5 years ago! Time does fly... :shock:
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This is how I installed bilge access and bilge pumps on my 19-6
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4328&p=27148&hilit=bilge#p27148
Thanks. I had a feeling I was going to have to do something like that. I'm thinking I may be able to come up by my battery box and sneek in the rigging boot and everything be pretty hidden. That's next on the list after I get the fuel system straight.
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Fabbed the new tank and got it installed. Still got to hook up all the lines though. Tried something a little different with the mounting. I've seen the usual stainless straps come loose from the rubber isolator too many times and chaff holes in the tank or cause electrolysis so instead I welded a mounting angle on each end and screwed/5200 it to the bottom of the box. I made a starboard "washer" and drilled the holes over size in the angle so there shouldn't be any dissimilar metal action going on but still hold it firmly in place.
(http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo131/BradleyDel/IMG_1050_zpsaa13d8ab.jpg)
(http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo131/BradleyDel/IMG_1052_zps8981085b.jpg)
(http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/oo131/BradleyDel/IMG_1053_zps7646a5a1.jpg)
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Looks good. :thumleft:
What's underneath?
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Underneath the tank? Nothing but a little air gap. The bottom of the box has somewhat of a V in it, not sure if it's supposed to but used it as a way to create an air gap underneath. I could have added a spacer of some sort but the tank is already pretty shallow even being built with just enough room between the deck and fill neck to get the hose on.
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Did you fab that tank yourself? Nice job.
You might want to do some research on painting and sealing that tank before you cover it up for a few years. Search on this site you will find some good info. :wink:
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Did you fab that tank yourself? Nice job.
Yes. I have a small aluminum fabrication business building T-tops, casting platforms, etc. so the boat will is probably going to end up covered in aluminum accessories :D
You might want to do some research on painting and sealing that tank before you cover it up for a few years. Search on this site you will find some good info. :wink:
It may be a little too late for that :oops: That being said, I've read a lot of info (from other sites mostly) on the paint, no paint, foam, no foam, do nothing, etc. and seems that there are many ways to skin the cat with no fail proof way of installing the tank. I do believe a properly painted tank will last longer, but there's a couple reasons I used the "do nothing" method. First being I'm a much better fabricator than painter and my fear would be that if I did not paint it properly then it would only add to the corrosion problem if the paint failed, chipped, or whatever. Second being is I can't say I've ever seen a tank with proper ventilation and grounding to fail unless something out of the ordinary happened, example being I've seen on two different occasions/boats the holding straps come loose from the rubber isolators and chaff a hole through in one and set up corrosion in the other. Time will tell but believe it will be there for years to come.
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If you haven't finished the install yet and can still remove the tank you can coat it some of this. It will seal against moisture and will wick into crevices to help stop corrosion at those points. It is soluble in gas but as long as nothing leaks you should be good for quite a few years. Prep is minimal, just wipe aluminum with acetone or the wax and grease remover of your choice. When I pull my pie holes over my tank it is good to see the condensation beaded up on top of this product. It is used in automotive to seal inside the pillars around the doors. It will work very well inside of tubing of any kind. The material is kind of like a beeswax in a can but better!
http://dominionsureseal.com/index.php?o ... -corrosion (http://dominionsureseal.com/index.php?option=com_djcatalog2&view=item&id=34:aerosol-amber-anti-corrosion-&cid=5:anti-corrosion)
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Did you fab that tank yourself? Nice job.
Yes. I have a small aluminum fabrication business building T-tops, casting platforms, etc. so the boat will is probably going to end up covered in aluminum accessories :D
You might want to do some research on painting and sealing that tank before you cover it up for a few years. Search on this site you will find some good info. :wink:
It may be a little too late for that :oops: That being said, I've read a lot of info (from other sites mostly) on the paint, no paint, foam, no foam, do nothing, etc. and seems that there are many ways to skin the cat with no fail proof way of installing the tank. I do believe a properly painted tank will last longer, but there's a couple reasons I used the "do nothing" method. First being I'm a much better fabricator than painter and my fear would be that if I did not paint it properly then it would only add to the corrosion problem if the paint failed, chipped, or whatever. Second being is I can't say I've ever seen a tank with proper ventilation and grounding to fail unless something out of the ordinary happened, example being I've seen on two different occasions/boats the holding straps come loose from the rubber isolators and chaff a hole through in one and set up corrosion in the other. Time will tell but believe it will be there for years to come.
Bradley what city are you in?
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If you haven't finished the install yet and can still remove the tank you can coat it some of this. It will seal against moisture and will wick into crevices to help stop corrosion at those points. It is soluble in gas but as long as nothing leaks you should be good for quite a few years. Prep is minimal, just wipe aluminum with acetone or the wax and grease remover of your choice. When I pull my pie holes over my tank it is good to see the condensation beaded up on top of this product. It is used in automotive to seal inside the pillars around the doors. It will work very well inside of tubing of any kind. The material is kind of like a beeswax in a can but better!
http://dominionsureseal.com/index.php?o (http://dominionsureseal.com/index.php?o) ... -corrosion
That stuff's pretty interesting and bet it could have several applications on a boat...hmm :scratch: But my problem with doing anything extra now is that the tank is mounted/rigged, fuel in it, and the floor sealed back into place. I feel comfortable with how it's installed and believe I will not have to worry about it for a long while.
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Bradley what city are you in?
Good ole Mobile, Al
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Bradley, you have some excellent metal fab and welding skills, you think about building t-tops, hardtops, and radar arches?
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Bradley, you have some excellent metal fab and welding skills, you think about building t-tops, hardtops, and radar arches?
That's actually what I do :thumright: I've been doing it for almost 15 years and custom build them as a side business. My "real" job is an engineer for a inspection/QC company. Not sure of the rules here though so kinda let it be and not "promote" anything.
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Here's the place to do a little "self promotion"...viewforum.php?f=12 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewforum.php?f=12)
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wish you were closer. Id be placing an order for a fuel tank. thats next winter's task though.
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Here's the place to do a little "self promotion"...viewforum.php?f=12
Sweet...thanks!
wish you were closer. Id be placing an order for a fuel tank. thats next winter's task though.
Unfortunately fuel tanks are something I don't sell. First being I don't have the certification and/or insurance for it nor do I have the equipment to build one for a reasonable price. I'm set up to work with anodized pipe almost exclusively and while I can build one for myself, it probably took me twice as long as a fabricator set up to work with plate. Thanks for the consideration though!
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What type of welding machine do you have?
I own a steel fabricating company and do dabble in aluminum work but only in mig. I have been seriously considering making my own t-top frame but don't want it mig welded. What process did you weld your gas tank with?
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It's a Lincoln Invertec. I used TIG all the way. If you want an anodized top a MIG gun won't work. The wire will literally bounce off the material since the anodized coating doesn't conduct electricity and can't arc correctly. Using TIG you will have to have a high frequency start. Even though it's the same material anodized aluminum welds very differently than mill finish.
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It's a Lincoln Invertec. I used TIG all the way. If you want an anodized top a MIG gun won't work. The wire will literally bounce off the material since the anodized coating doesn't conduct electricity and can't arc correctly. Using TIG you will have to have a high frequency start. Even though it's the same material anodized aluminum welds very differently than mill finish.
The invertec has built in HF start?
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Yes, most of your late model AC/DC inverters should have a built-in HF. If you're looking to get a new machine take a good look at the Thermal-Arcs too. I can't say anything bad about my Lincoln but the Thermal-Arcs are as equally good, or better, at a much better price point.