Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Fuel tanks and anything about fuel systems => Topic started by: FJStretch on January 07, 2014, 12:33:26 AM
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Popped the tank coffin top yesterday...
Lots of moisture.
What is the white crud on top of tank?
Smells like vinegar.
Green wire insulation appears swollen.
Bottom of hatch lip on one side has a lot of dark goopy crud.
Any insight, thoughts? All is appreciated.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//691/image112.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8825&title=image112&cat=691)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//691/image111.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8827&title=image111&cat=691)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//691/image113.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8828&title=image113&cat=691)
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More photos
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//691/2014-01-05_15_18_39-1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8832&title=2014-01-05-15-18-39-1&cat=691)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//691/2014-01-05_15_16_54.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8830&title=2014-01-05-15-16-54&cat=691)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//691/2014-01-05_15_20_17-1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8833&title=2014-01-05-15-20-17-1&cat=691)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//691/2014-01-05_15_20_49.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8834&title=2014-01-05-15-20-49&cat=691)
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The white stuff should be aluminum oxide, typical surface corrosion on a tank when you clean it off you should find little pits where the build up is greatest.
The green wire is the tank ground and needs to be replaced. The reason the insulation looks like that could be from two things. 1 is excessive heat build up (and that is unlikely) and the other more probable is that the wire is corroded to the point where the only thing that is keeping it together is the insulation.
Black stuff is a form of mold/wood core decay. Depending on your build plan, your can either go big and recore the cover or do localized surgery to get rid of the black stuff..
What kind of rebuild plan do you have?
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Popped the tank coffin top yesterday...
Any insight, thoughts? All is appreciated.
R.I.P. :salut:
Time for a new tank.
Haul it out and start fresh.
Plenty of resources for tanks and install in the Resource and Rebuild forums.
Good luck.
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^^^^^^^
New tank time. Bye-bye de funky called Medina.
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My rebuild plan is .... Actually still under construction but I do plan to bring her back all the way. I still need to check the foam in the stringers but, judging from the waterline at the scuppers, I am not expecting good news.
This project will take me well beyond my experience level but I'm going to give it a try. I just got the plans back for a workshop I plan to build in the back yard. It's all moving forward .... But it's a bit slow. Right now, I have the console off and was doing some rewiring. While I was at it, I thought I would pop the tank lid and take a look.
Once the workshop is done, there will be fewer mosquitos and rain delays and a lot more light (mostly evenings and weekends). Better working conditions! :cheers:
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When I pulled my tank coffin cover, I notice this gap on the underside of the console. The fiberglass appears to be separating from the outer layer of the console. The fiberglass is soft to the touch ( you can easily move it with your fingers. I don't have a lot of experience with this stuff (including terminology). What's the best way to fix this? Is this a 5200 job?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/image143.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9142&title=console-delamination&cat=500)
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If you have any resin laying around you might dribble some down in there and weight it down.
Otherwise 5200 would work but it take a while to cure.
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I may have a sub-deck drainage issue. This is view into bilge through the rear deck pie plate (1986 Osprey 200).
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//691/2014-03-08_17_06_02b.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=9191&title=2014-03-08-17-06-02b&cat=691)
This pie plate access is right in front of the motor. In the photo, you can see the top of the bilge pump in the foreground and the starboard stringer in the background. You can see what I am pretty sure is the drain pipe that allows any water on the other side of the stringer to flow into the central part of the boat. (Am I correct?)
Here's the issue...
This pipe appears to be blocked. I tried to poke a small diameter dowel through it with no luck. I think I am hitting foam at about 3 inches into the pipe. I tried to poke through with the dowel but no luck. Before I break out something with a little more bite and start boring through, I thought I better get some advice from my more experienced all-knowing friends on the forum.
Other relevant info:
The boat doesn't seem to list to port or anything. I checked the other side and the pipe is open... at least I can move the dowel freely about 12" before I hit something solid. I( think it is something on the far side of the port stringer and I am guessing the dowel has already cleared the far side of the stringer ... meaning the pipe is open and can facilitate drainage properly. The back end of the boat does sit a little low in the water (waterline is just above the scuppers when not moving).
Thanks!
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This pie plate access is right in front of the motor. In the photo, you can see the top of the bilge pump in the foreground and the starboard stringer in the background. You can see what I am pretty sure is the drain pipe that allows any water on the other side of the stringer to flow into the central part of the boat. (Am I correct?)
Looks to be the drain for the outboard side of the stringer to drain through. :thumleft:
Here's the issue...
This pipe appears to be blocked. I tried to poke a small diameter dowel through it with no luck. I think I am hitting foam at about 3 inches into the pipe. I tried to poke through with the dowel but no luck. Before I break out something with a little more bite and start boring through, I thought I better get some advice from my more experienced all-knowing friends on the forum.
The outboard side of the stringers are usually foamed so there is a good chance that you have some foam in there.
Being that there is foam there I would imagine that if there was water on that side of the stringer, it would not be able to get into the bilge. The big question is how water would get into the outboard side - have any hatches on that side?
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The big question is how water would get into the outboard side - have any hatches on that side?
Not in the deck. However, the trough (wiring harness, fuel line, control cables) is on that side and I read that some AS owners have had some issues with that. I don't see any issues in the trough though.
There is a pie hatch just below the fuel cap and I stuck my hand down there to see if I could feel water. There was some moist gunk down there but no standing water... but that was way up in the front of the boat. I guess I could lower the front end a good bit and stick my hand back down there to see if I could feel water.... but either way, shouldn't that pipe be open? Any reason I shouldn't try to bore through that foam (cautiously)? How wide should I expect the base of the stringer to be in that portion of the boat? (I wouldn't want to go to far and hit something else).
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Unless someone drilled a drain in the trough it should be watertight.
I think my stringers were like 9" at the base. On the other side of the pipe there should be about a foot before you hit the hull side.
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Rick's right on with the stringer being around 9 inches at the base, just went thru my old measurements when I had my 19-6 apart and they measured 9 1/2 inches at the bottom, like yours mine had the drain tube at the transom end, and the foam on the outside of the stringers went all the way to the tube so it could very well be blocked by the foam under the floor at the opposite side of the stringer. :salut: My trough had holes drilled in it for wires that didn't exist any more, so I just did away with the trough when rebuilding the floor. :thumright: Used rigging tubes, 1-3inch, 1-2inch, Wiring, control cables, battery cables in the 3 incher, fuel, hydraulic steering and transducer in the 2 inch.
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stretch....could you please measure and post the exact fuel tank length, width and height? measurements seem to vary a bit from project to project as owners replace the tanks and i am curious what the original dimensions are on your osprey....i am replacing the tank on my 196 but the boat had no tank in it to get the original measurements....thnx and good luck with your boat!
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stretch....could you please measure and post the exact fuel tank length, width and height? measurements seem to vary a bit from project to project as owners replace the tanks and i am curious what the original dimensions are on your osprey....i am replacing the tank on my 196 but the boat had no tank in it to get the original measurements....thnx and good luck with your boat!
My guess is Stretch's dimensions aren't going to help in regards to your 19-6. 2 totally different boats from different eras. Measure your tank compartment, then search the web for a poly tank that is close, or have an aluminum tank fabbed that will fit your exact compartment...
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I still have my original tank as I haven't taken it to the scrapper yet, so if you want a measurement I can get that for you. I did some searching for a replacement tank for my 200 and I put these on another thread but I will put here for you as well. I had someone give me a 70 gal alum for free so I decided I'm going to use that. Fits right in and I plan on raising the deck so no filler neck issues. Just let me know if you want those measurements.
Here are a couple of tank options I found for my 200 which is almost the same as yours
50 gal http://www.boatstore.com/ft5037-50-gall ... x-95h.html (http://www.boatstore.com/ft5037-50-gallon-fuel-tank-73l-x-185w-x-95h.html)
73 gal http://www.iboats.com/73-Gallon-Fuel-Ta ... _id.686983 (http://www.iboats.com/73-Gallon-Fuel-Tank-86-L-x-25-16-W-x-11-75-H-Moeller/dm/cart_id.323784367--session_id.825976527--view_id.686983)
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stretch....could you please measure and post the exact fuel tank length, width and height? measurements seem to vary a bit from project to project as owners replace the tanks and i am curious what the original dimensions are on your osprey....i am replacing the tank on my 196 but the boat had no tank in it to get the original measurements....thnx and good luck with your boat!
The Resource forum is (at times) your friend.
First off, you might want to look here.
viewtopic.php?p=112272#p112272 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?p=112272#p112272)
There are a few 19-6s circa your era with tank dims.
So too the Vendor forum can be friendly (note discount).
Also, you haven't posted your locale but I'll guess and say that this Vendor can get you an exact fit since he's done a number of these for Aqua owners and is in your area.
viewtopic.php?p=79539#p79539 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?p=79539#p79539)
Lastly, if a member replaces a fuel tank, posting the dimensions to the first link can help the next guy so please everyone, post those tank measurements.
Thanks and good luck. :thumleft:
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true, it may not be the same size as on my 196 and more a curiosity factor as to the changes made in the tanks...interesting that the fill, vent and withdrawls (perhaps sender too)are all positioned in near center of tank as i know mine were...access to these through a single 4 or 6 inch deck plate.....not sure how many more original tanks r out there but this is a good one to document from this era as it appears original.....i have already measured and have plans for a new tank.....perhaps my only modification is the height....i am planning on an 8 inch tall tank that leaves me 2.5 inches to spare to account for the fuel fill piping atop the tank....my total minimal clearance to the bottom of coffin cover is 10.5 inches at the stearn of the coffin but oddly increases steadily to 11.5 inches at the bow end of the coffin....i am wondering if aquasport designed an angled compensation on the floor of the coffin to keep the fuel level while the boat was under power and running bow up????? .....has anyone else noticed this or has it been discussed???....it could possibly account for the withdrawl being placed at center of tank versus towards the stearn of tank?????....planning on my withdrawl at the stearn on my new tank unless anyone knows better......food for thought
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In the course of my work (when I do a re-wire, ALL the wiring gets replaced, including the sender wiring), I see a lot of older boats with the fill, vent, pick-up, and sender located either center or towards the front of the tank. Only on newer model boats (regardless of manufacturer) do I see the sender and pick-up located aft. While this can give somewhat of a "false" reading on the fuel gauge, having the pick-up aft allows it to be in the area where the most fuel is either at rest or underway...
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On my 91 WAC, the original fuel pick up was located on the rear of the tank. Fill and vent were amidships.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04840.jpg?t=1252792698)
Pick up is just out of view to the right, behind sender for fuel gauge.
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where is the best location to place the sender?? mid tank or stearn of tank? ......assuming if you place it mid tank it will read slightly lower than actual fuel available(safer in low fuel situations) and if in stearn it could read falsely higher as fuel is pinched/angled back in low fuel situations.....is there a common practice for sender location?...i will place the pickup at the stearn of tank.....thnx
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My sender is in the stern. I place little trust in it other than a visual indicator of the ball park amount of fuel in the tank.
That stated, I use a Flow Scan fuel metering device. Have for a long time. Personally, while I agree they are expensive, I feel it's one of the best bang for your buck upgrades a pleasure boater can do. Once you use it and get a warm and fuzzy feeling, you never have to guess about fuel quantity or get that troublesome feeling in your stomach wondering if you'll make it in after a long outing. Again, this is strictly my opinion.
Lastly, the most accurate fuel gauge I ever had (prior to the scan) was a dowel rod but then I'm dating myself.
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Sorry for the late reply. I was out of town for a couple days.
Although it might or might not be useful, I will measure the tank and post the measurements here. That will happen probably this weekend.... as I covered it up, put everything away, and have some commitments through the end of the week.
One thing to add.... The guy I bought the boat from said he put a new tank in it about a year before he sold it to me... But something tells me it is the original tank.
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Not saying what's "right" or "wrong", just as a bit of info, all the tanks in all the boats I worked on/built/saw/whatever since 1994, the pickups and sender were located aft exactly as shown on CB's 210.
One thing an owner can do to give his fuel gauge a little more accuracy is change out the "swing arm" float type sender to a WEMA sender, where the float rides vertically on a shaft. This pretty much eliminates the gauge needle fluctuations as sloshing fuel moves the swing arm up and down. The resistance measureing unit is also solid-state and potted, so you get truer resistance readings (and more accurate needle positions on your gauge) over the life of the sender.
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Although it might or might not be useful, I will measure the tank and post the measurements here.
And for that we thank you. :thumright:
As stated above, the WEMA sender is the standard. They are really inexpensive when compared to the swing arm and would appear more durable. My new tank has one and I created a little chart on the slider(float) position and its relation to the gauge. It's a better back up should the flow meter fail and is (as SB stated) a sealed unit resulting in a longer life. Mine's a little over 3 years old and the gauge (LED) is still working fine.
Good luck
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Lastly, the most accurate fuel gauge I ever had (prior to the scan) was a dowel rod but then I'm dating myself.
Ain't nothing wrong with "stabbing the tank", CB... :thumright:
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Lastly, the most accurate fuel gauge I ever had (prior to the scan) was a dowel rod but then I'm dating myself.
Ain't nothing wrong with "stabbing the tank", CB... :thumright:
We check the fuel on some of our heavy equipment that way, and many of those pieces of machinery cost as much as a house...