Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Other Classic Rebuilds => Topic started by: Fletch170 on September 10, 2013, 08:40:44 PM
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So, here's the backstory.
My father taught me to fish on a 2100 CC Hydra Sport, which was new at the time. My father sold it, and it is still owned by the same people (several motors later). They love the boat, and wouldnt sell it back to us!
Fast forward 23 years, I stumbled across this boat which had been abandoned after the motor went, and the owner welched on storage fees. The boat sat for 10 years collecting rain. I saw the boat 3 years ago, and offered to buy it. A year ago, the title finally shows up after the yard owner filed a lein. in the meantime I purchased my 17 aquasport while I was waiting for the title to appear......so my father bought the boat.
Unfortunately, my father started working on the boat and was diagnosed with cancer. Sadly, 8 months later, we was gone.
This is where I come in. I decided to sell the 17, and continue what my father started. I thought it was fitting that since my father and I have some history with this model, I'd finish the project.
Furthermore, the real tear jerker is that my wife and I just had our first born. My Son was born this July, my father passed in May. My son never got a chance to meet his "pop pop". However, I want to keep the tradition alive and teach my son to fish in the same type of boat my father taught me.
Here's the boat when I found it:
http://2100hs.blogspot.com/2013/09/rebi ... assic.html (http://2100hs.blogspot.com/2013/09/rebirth-of-classic.html)
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Good luck to you. Sounds like a great project with a sad but cool back story.
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Glad you got her back!
That boat and her big sister the 2400CC were the best riding boats Hydrasports ever produced IMHO. Most had Kevlar in the layup.
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Thanks guys!
This is a kevlar hull. I'm really not sure how much kevlar is ACTUALLY used, but I can say that this boat is rock solid. It's unreal despite how dirty and completely abandoned the thing was, how dry the decks are, and how solid the transom is.
I've been told that this is hands down the best riding 21 foot boat.....ever. I hope it pulls up lots of fish!
if anyone has any information about these boats, please let me know. I can't find any old brochures, and pictures/ information on the internet is limited. I know it weighs 2100 pounds, and holds 125 gallons of fuel...which is good because the 225 that is going on the back is a fuel HOG.
By the looks of it, I think the boat has about 24 degrees of deadrise, and a really soft entry. However, I'd like to know for sure, because I'm a nerd like that!!!
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sorry to hear about your father. was that all this year?
thats awesome that you are going to finish it. are the blog pics how it currently sits? what are you plans?
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Thanks guys!
This is a kevlar hull. I'm really not sure how much kevlar is ACTUALLY used, but I can say that this boat is rock solid. It's unreal despite how dirty and completely abandoned the thing was, how dry the decks are, and how solid the transom is.
I've been told that this is hands down the best riding 21 foot boat.....ever. I hope it pulls up lots of fish!
if anyone has any information about these boats, please let me know. I can't find any old brochures, and pictures/ information on the internet is limited. I know it weighs 2100 pounds, and holds 125 gallons of fuel...which is good because the 225 that is going on the back is a fuel HOG.
By the looks of it, I think the boat has about 24 degrees of deadrise, and a really soft entry. However, I'd like to know for sure, because I'm a nerd like that!!!
The 2100CC I had held 85 gallons. The larger tank was a later option, so your dad must have ordered it with this option.
The boat was laid up totally with kevlar....no fiberglass. The deadrise at the transom is 24 degrees. What makes the boat so soft riding though is the entry....it is butter soft. You will not believe it the first time you put her in the ocean.
The main issue on mine in later years was the tank and the hatches. The hatches went soft before the deck. Never had any issues with the deck...but that was nearly thirty years ago.
PS, just looked at your pics. DON'T FORGET to check the 1.5 inch hose from the fisbox drain on the casting deck. It routes under the tank and out the transom. There was NO SEACOCK on mine :thumbdown:
If you leave it for now, at least install a seacock at the transom for safety.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/hydrasport2.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8121&title=hydrasport2&cat=500)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/hydrasport.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8120&title=hydrasport&cat=500)
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Thanks guys!
This is a kevlar hull. I'm really not sure how much kevlar is ACTUALLY used,
The boat was laid up totally with kevlar....no fiberglass.
We've been down this road before, and on a post with Fletch (though he wasn't the author).
Also, let's clear up that this new HS hull is not the one Fletch grew up with or his Dad owned but the same model correct?
Still a great story Fletch, following your 170 rebuild/rebirth. :thumright:
viewtopic.php?p=87060#p87060 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?p=87060#p87060)
Good luck and keep posting progress.
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Thanks guys!
This is a kevlar hull. I'm really not sure how much kevlar is ACTUALLY used,
The boat was laid up totally with kevlar....no fiberglass.
We've been down this road before, and on a post with Fletch (though he wasn't the author).
Also, let's clear up that this new HS hull is not the one Fletch grew up with or his Dad owned but the same model correct?
Still a great story Fletch, following your 170 rebuild/rebirth. :thumright:
viewtopic.php?p=87060#p87060 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?p=87060#p87060)
Good luck and keep posting progress.
Good memory Bob, my apologies for the incorrect all kevlar lam statement.
It does, however, run in the ocean like a scalded dog :mrgreen:
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It's all good Scott. Fletch's rebuild was great in that he was a first time DIYer hitting it. Then rather than fall off the earth after completion he gives it up to a family member and begins yet another rebuild. The story tying everything together is classic. Just like the hulls and the Forum.
Now he takes on a motor while the hull itself appears to be in good shape for its age. You are very correct in that this will be a screamer. If he opens up the hull, I'm going to very interested in what's going on below decks.
Interesting indeed. :thumleft:
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Bob,
You are correct, this is not the SAME boat, but the SAME model. The original boat is still owned by the people we sold it to. However, they keep the boat in mint condition. I go by it sometimes, makes me happy. Unlike the 23 mako my pops and I completely redid, which we sold. I think the day we sold the boat is the last time it got a wash or wax. The boat is completely destroyed. Makes me sick. One of the nicest makos ever.
Anyways, I can't wait turn turn this thing loose. With a 225 on the back (granted, its a heavy boat), she should still fly.
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Can't wait to see this rebuild. Totally different than what we're used to here for a 20 footer. The stringers on the 21 Hydra were comparable to our CCP's. Guess you could expect that given the deadrise.
Fletch, I've owned quite a few boats. That boat of yours...wish were still in the fleet. It's a keeper.
Everyone makes over a 20 Potter Seacraft. Nice ride, famous ride. That little boat of yours will comfortably leave it behind by a mile over the course of a ten mile head-sea ocean run.
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Got her back here in PA.
Shes pretty dirty, but should be awesome.
Have trim is gone, and there was no starboard to replace it......crap.
There are however, starboard deck hatches and console doors.
none of the livewells are connected....bit the petcock's are still thee and very old. I'm looking to replace them, or just glass the holes in.
Not a lot of use for livewells here.....
http://2100hs.blogspot.com/ (http://2100hs.blogspot.com/)
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Wow that brings back some memories. First thing to do is get rid of those pie plates at the stern. You had to be half monkey half contortionist to get your hand down in there.
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nice solid start. mostly finish work. structurally good? going to be tearing into deck or transom? paint?
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Classic Aquasport Brothers,
Spent a few hours this weekend really going over the boat. Thing is really built like a brick s*ithouse. I guess thats why it is 32 years cold and solid as a rock. I am really impressed. The bottom shares a lot of the same lines as a jupiter, minus the pad.
I'm taking scott's advice and putting some decent access hatches and remove those stupid pie plates. The livewell is really basic, and the forward livewell does not have a petcock....which I can't wrap my head around. So, The front will simply be used for storage, and the rear will remain basic, routed through a new petcock.However, as scott likely remembers, the thing will only drain when you are up on plane....so I'm going to install a macerator or something, and make it a true livewell....at the off chance I'm using spot or eels for striper.
I think at the moment, I'm not pulling anything apart. I'm going to make this a complete boat, then work on the fine detail. The console, deck, and hull (where the dumb lightning bolt was) has been painted.
I just want it to be functional, and look really good for a 1981.
Anyone know someone who makes good starboard trim?
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Anyone know someone who makes good starboard trim?
Might try here.
viewtopic.php?p=93080#p93080 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?p=93080#p93080)
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Ditto what Bob recommends, you will like Frank's products and pricing.
As far as your livewells, the rear in-deck livewell works great! We had to chage the plumbing around a little, regardless you'll want to run a 1.5 inch out the top, down into the bilge and out the lower transom with a seacock. It will drain fine that way.
Did you see the big drain hose from the front fishbox running under the fuel tank? I hope they did away with that.
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All the house that is in there at the moment is literally, garden hose. There is nothing attached to the petcock, and the rear livewell is attached to the inlet with no petcock.
It looks like the front livewell is still attached to hose, which is also, frickin garden hose.
Btw, this is a 1981 model. I think I stated it was an 83 before.
I'll follow up on the starboard link. Thanks Guys!
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Hey guys, finally made up my mind as to how this boat is going to shake out.
I'm a big fan of yourl light colored hulls and white trim everything. I just like that "florida" style so to speak. However, as im going over in my head what this boat would look like with a pale green hull and a white rubrail, it just didnt fit the style of the boat. I've decided on flag blue hull sides, green bottom, dark blue sunbrella on the t top, off white for the liner and console. The rubrail will be getting a new rope insert. I've decided, outside of the teak (replacing with seafoam starboard), I'm going to make this boat "Period Correct". The last thing I want people to say is "hey they painted that old boat". I think the boat will look more "natural" this way....like it rolled off the production line like this.....but the lightning bolt guy called in sick that day.
The boat now has "Moondust" awlgrip on the console and covering the infamous sparkley lightning bolt. Frankly, I think it looks like...well, exactly what it's doing.....hiding that stupid lightning bolt. Also, I was going to just paint the hull sides, but frankly, there are some areas on the liner that need attention. So the boat will look, pretty much new.
The motor is getting sanded and repainted by yours truely (I'm an ace with a rattle can). The cowl is getting professionally painted. I will then be placing the factory decals for a saltwater series on her....even though its a carbed 225 merc offshore, they remained largely unchanged appearance wise...the motor will look 10 years newer. It will however, still sound like 30 farts in an empty coffee can......as those carb mercs do.
Now the fun stuff.
The F&cking retarded front livewell will become water tight storage for PFD's and safety gear. The rear livewell will become a proper livewell, complete with pump.It fill up with water, but does not circulate. Congrats, you have a big pond of dead bait. Dumb.For those who are not familiar, if you want the thing to drain, you must get the boat on plane, let the livewell drain and while running, and shut the seacock....while still running. Did I mention the seacock is old PVC? Because it is......
I freaking hate bow rails. Hate hate HATE bowrails. however, I think the bowrail actually looks "OK" on this...so it's staying. Also, if you've been striper fishing up here and it 45 degrees and the water is about the same.....pulling up an anchor in 2 foot seas really lends itself to you going in the drink. A bow rail seems like a good idea. Also, I have a little guy. Safety-Schmafety. The stupid bowrail stays.
Getting these guys to build some starboard doors for the console, and one for the anchor locker......best prices i've seen:
http://www.boatoutfitters.com/build-you ... -boat-door (http://www.boatoutfitters.com/build-your-own-custom-starboard-boat-door)
Outside of that, Just your garden varitry 100% electrical overhaul, and this old girl will be back in action, after being lawn art for so many years.
This is the T top what will be fabricated, with silver , not gold rocket launchers.
http://www.boattowers.com/tower-pics/Hy ... 78-22'.jpg (http://www.boattowers.com/tower-pics/Hydra-Sports18978-22'.jpg)
Also, have a brand spankin new birdsall leaning post going in.
Oh, and by chance, I found trim for around the fishing rod holders on Great lakes skipper....off what and everything. Its tracker marine, made for a 213 mako.
So......now all I have to do is.......everything:)
Stay warm everyone!!!!
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It appears the rumors of your demise were greatly exaggerated. :wink:
Welcome back.
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Go get 'em Christian!! Never doubted you for a second! :salut:
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I'm alive and well. Having a 6 month old and a really demanding job kinda sidelines me from my true love, swearing at fiberglass.
On a side note, if anyone comes across an old 25 Seavee, Contender, or Whitewater, please let me know....that's what I want to end up with.
Any suggestions for adding the new livewell rigging? I believe they sell kits?
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fletch good to see you still on her. it took me a bit to get used to it but the off white, blue stripe and silver lightening bolt on mine is a great combo. heres a pic of my newly acquired 1984 1800
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o221/CEEJKAY/Hydrasport/IMAG0422_zpscdb59380.jpg) (http://s121.photobucket.com/user/CEEJKAY/media/Hydrasport/IMAG0422_zpscdb59380.jpg.html)
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Fletch, re the recirculating livewell setup, set it up just as you would an above deck oval livewell.... 3/4 inch clamshell pickup with thru-hull offset of center (normally port side) beneath the hull near the transom. Threading to seacock in the bilge, livewell pump on top, exit hose from pump to the bottom of the tank. Then near the top of the tank as an outlet, inch and a half hose to inch and a half seacock with thru hull low in transom.
You can use the search feature here on CAS....there are pics, diagrams, combos with washdown pumps, etc.
Captain Bob hopefully will know exactly where to direct you :thumright:
You guys are going to LOVE running those old Hydrasports! :salut:
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Hey guys,
I'm glad I was missed! Although I havent been posting anything, I would check in weekly to see what you folks are up to.
Frankly, I missed it. So although not an Aquasport, I still get to pal around with you guys, and learn as much as possible.
Scotty, I'll look into the livewell. I'm definately removing and glassing the the hole from the current petcock. Did a lot of these things sink? It seems like it was just such a poor design. Hopefully I'll be pulling the motor next week and taking the boat for glass blasting.
Also, I dont think i mentioned, but I will be using Awlgrip this time around....I want this thing looking proper.
I do have a question for you guys. I would like to run a rigging tube (Black flexible tube that hides all the fuel/oil/ controls and wire harness to the motor. Did these mercs have a rubber boot that extended from the motor like the yami's do? As of right now, There is nothing to clamp the house to. if not, how have you guys cleaned up the rigging and hoses?
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Christian, what year Merc? Does it have basically a square opening on the starboard side where the harness/batt cables enter the lower pan, and then another opening on port for the shift/throttle cables?
If you can find a pic, take a look at Merc P/N 825191A1, may be what you are looking for...
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This is a start. Somewhere is a diagram and pics of a completed recirculating system.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10263&hilit=livewell+install (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10263&hilit=livewell+install)
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Hey guys, just spent 45 minutes typing a post on my ipad and accidently deleted everything. Damn Steve Jobs and your user friendly interface even i can screw up.
Look, here are some pictures, i'll fill in the text afterwards.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/front.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8919&title=feb&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_2383.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8918&title=feb&cat=500)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_2382.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8917&title=feb&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_2381.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8916&title=feb&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_2376.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8915&title=feb&cat=500)
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man i want your center console! its looking good. you keeping with the color combo you got going on? personally i like it.
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Ok,
SO I finally took some time to learn how to upload pictures.
Bob, all controls and hoses come out of the port side of the motor.
I'll start with that info Scotty, thank you.
Any insight into adding a raw water washdown into the mix? As easy as adding a "T" joint somewhere?
Also, wanted to follow up on a previous post where i noted this motor didnt not have a trim switch on the motor. After closer inspection, i found that the switch must have been stolen or damaged. So the obvious fix was to caulk in a plano tackle tray divider (little piece of plastic). Darrrrrrrrrrrrrr
next up, I'm building a motor stand so I can work on the merc in my garage while it's still cold. Also, the console is being removed and brought indoors as well. I plan on glassing in 2 of the existing door cut-outs.I hope to prime and paint that first, so I can wire everything in the warmth of my garage. After the motor is yanked, shes off to glass blast!
I'm going to look for some pictures I didnt put on the blog.
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This should be printed, and taped to your project.
Here is the idea, please discregard the leaning post/ tackle station. That went to a Juno 30. Also, the console will be off white matching the liner.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_2199.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8923&title=img-2199&cat=500)
On another side note....the cowl is from a 250.....are they bigger than the 225? I dont think they are????
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_1879.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8922&title=img-1879&cat=500)
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and..........Here is why I havent been working on the boat. I've been changing diapers.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_2008.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8926&title=img-2008&cat=500)
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Sorry man, going with flag blue hull sides.
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and..........Here is why I havent been working on the boat. I've been changing diapers.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_2008.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8926&title=img-2008&cat=500)
:thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft: :cheers:
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Christian that little dude will keep you running! Most excellent,,
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Looks like I got everything sorted....no I just have to start the actual work! As soon as the snow has melted (Got about 2 feet at the moment) I'm pulling the console into my garage, along with the Merc, where I can start getting them ready. I plan to also pull as much off the boat as possible to get it ready for sanding (Hardware, pie plants, bowrail, rubrail, etc. Looks like I have a nice barn where I can do al the sanding. On the way there, I plan to take the boat to a self service car was and completely scrub her down. That way, when back inside a barn, I can start sanding and body work (when it warms up a little.
Meanwhile back at the house, I should have the console ready ina few weeks and I can start rigging the electronics and house systems.
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HOLY S*IT, FLETCH ISN"T DEAD!!!!!!
Just been swamped with work, and havent had a chance to jump on here and give you guys a progress report.
Got the boat out of storage and to a yard right by my house for easy access, I actually drag her a mile down the road to my house to work on her.....pretty awesome.
Anyhow, as you can see by the pictures, I pulled everything off that could be, so sanding and painting will be much easier. The motor comes off tomorrow, and will be placed in my garage, where I can completely repaint and sort out the half-A$$ wiring (will follow up with seperate post with that birds-nest of lazy from the PO.
So, motor comes off, and the hull goes out for sand blasting, in the meantime, I'm filling the large hole in the console where it used to have barn doors. I plan to in the next week fair, prime and paint the console. Hoping to stick with the Henry Ford approach and rig the console with all electronics/ house systems so when it goes back on, it's just plug and play.
When the boat is back, the hull sides are getting Awlcraft 2000 Flag blue, and the liner will have a traditional off white.
After that, comes the rigging.
In the time I havent been actively working on the boat, I have been painstakingly sourcing parts. Namely, replacing every teak part with off white starboard. Doors, rod holder trim, in console tackle storage, gunwhale inserts, livewell hatches, access plates.
I have spent more money on starboard than the damn boat is worth:)
The only thing left up in the air is what type of rub rail......I'd like an off white with a stainless insert, but I can't seem to find it. It's that or just a plain black one. Suggestions?
Also, pound for pound, this thing might be one of the best riding 21's out there. Should I bother with a set of lencos? (Sorry guys, I hate bennett)
Here she is:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_2852.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10069&title=out-of-storage&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_2969.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10072&title=sans-console&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_2928.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10070&title=console-off-2c-new-windshield-fits&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_2929.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10071&title=home-made-motor-stand&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_2970.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10073&title=let-27s-start-sanding&cat=500)
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I was wondering if the rumors of your death were greatly exaggerated. :shock:
Welcome back. :thumleft:
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was wondering where this project went. i like this boat. looking forward to the final results.
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Between my day job, and getting this company off the ground, I'm a busy guy.
Anyone want to buy one!!!???????? Spread the word!!!!!
http://www.juno31.com/ (http://www.juno31.com/)
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built in Juno Beach? thats right in my neck of the woods. this is your company?
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Welcome back Fletch. Best riding 21 ever made! Wish I still had mine.
Rubrail:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=9355 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=9355)
Tabs:
Completely unnecessary, save the money :thumright:
On the sand-blast, double-check they are using soda.
Keep us posted, tx!
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Christian, I vote for the old black rubrail with the rope insert...I just kinda think it's cool...
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I was going to, but the factory one was trashed and completely faded. We'll see, might get a new one and put a new rope insert.
Got the motor on the stand!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_2973.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10075&title=img-2973&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_2972.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10074&title=img-2972&cat=500)
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Got the cowl and lower fairings off the motor and sanded. Sending to paint tomorrow.
Got the console sanded down, ready for fairing.
Will be posting a topic in the engine section, been redoing a ton of electrical BS from prior owners. It's a real mess.......
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3053.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10128&title=img-3053&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3052.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10127&title=img-3052&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3050.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10126&title=img-3050&cat=500)
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Motor is apart waiting for replacement mid section...
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3093.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10208&title=img-3093&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3095.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10204&title=img-3095&cat=500)
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pulled the old plastic through hull fittings out, along with the garden hose......
They were all loose, and im pretty sure this boat sank at the dock at some point. The story I got is the motor was junk and the guy couldnt afford another, so he abandoned it at the marina.
Also, there was little to no caulk used, admitttedly, the transom around the through hulls is a little wet. Drilled some holes, and a little bit of water dripped out. The rest of the transom is solid, however, I think a new transom will be a project for next winter.
Anyhow, got the hull sanded with 150 grit, the bottom gets blasted thursday, and hopefully next saturday I'll be priming her with 545.
a few shots of the lower cowls, not too shabby for rattle cans!
Here's the petcock that looks like it came from an above ground pool kit... along with the hose with one failed clamp from disaster.....seriously idiotic.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3148.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10248&title=img-3148&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3147.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10247&title=img-3147&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3162.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10250&title=img-3162&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3163.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10251&title=img-3163&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3136.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10254&title=img-3136&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3137.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10255&title=img-3137&cat=500)
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Fletch, glad to see her coming along!
That lower drain... originally drained the front fishbox. At least someone put a valve on it, as opposed to the one from the factory.
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I just dont understand the design. Everything on this boat is built really well, and this is just garbage. If a clamp breaks, you are in some serious trouble. Also, the fittings are plastic. For now, I'm glassing everything up and going without a livewell. When I replace the transom in a few years, I'll do a proper through hull setup.
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Hey Fletch, hows it coming?
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Hey all, sorry for not posting my progress sooner, life tends to get in the way!
So, the bottom is blasted, the entire boat is sanded, and only a few pinholes and stress cracks that need to be filled, and the thing is ready for primer.
Go the drain holes filled and glassed, and did some repair work to the stringer system in the aft, you will see in the pictures.
As it's starting to get cold up here, I'm hoping I can get a nice weekend when I can paint.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3546.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10591&title=img-3546&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3544.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10590&title=img-3544&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3542.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10589&title=img-3542&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3539.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10588&title=img-3539&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3535.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10587&title=img-3535&cat=500)
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:thumright: :thumleft:
Glad your getting rid of the plastic junk Christian!! Looking forward to seeing her in paint!
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:thumleft:
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Hola Dudes!!!
Whelp, its December....where the hell does the time go? Anyways, got the FrankenMerc back together with all new hardware and mounts. Got the console primed and ready to shoot Awlgrip offwhite when I get one of those "Warm" days in the 60's. Basically, spray outside, then roll it in the garage and crank the heat. Here's some pics:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3557.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10869&title=img-3557&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3558.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10870&title=img-3558&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_35591.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10874&title=img-35591&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_35611.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10876&title=img-35611&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_35671.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10877&title=img-35671&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3570.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10878&title=img-3570&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3571.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10879&title=img-3571&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_3573.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=10880&title=img-3573&cat=500)
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I need to start out by saying, Crap. I started poking around the stringers in the bildge, and my curiosity got the best of me. "I wonder if the stringers are wet?" Drilled in, and 6 Inches from the transom is not just wet.....it's freakin mush. SO, now I know the rear deck is coming up to fix the stringers. At this point, I'm thinking, well, I'm already doing serious glass work at this point.....I wonder how wet the transom is??? There were very little stress cracks and when I drilled small holes toward the keel, small amounts of water came out. So I made the decison to just go ahead and replace the transom....it could be "just ok" or really bad. I figure at this point, the boat is 34 years old, and it's time.
Here we go again boys.
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Christian, can't tell you how many times I've drilled new holes for a ducer install...and water starts dripping out of the holes. On boats a whole lot newer than yours...
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Water always wins, right?
That being said, this boat is 34 years old. By itself, it's not worth very much. SO, I'm wondering if it's worth the extra $ to use coosa for the Transom? I've been dreading this project due to the fact that the transom on this thing is strange. The entire transom is not cored, only the offset portion (take a look at the pictures). This makes replacing the transom from the inside really, really, REALLY tough. Not only that, but wherever possible (as in, a worker could reach) they glassed the cap/liner to the hull. This makes simply cutting the first 2 feet of the liner out almost impossible without destroying it. SO, i have to cut out the decking in the splashwell and work from there. It's going to be a real motherbitch. I was considering replacing the transom from the outside, but most people on the interwebs seem to think this is not the way to go.
The plan is to use 1.5inch Coosa for the transom, and beef up the rear portion of the strongers with the same material. I need to take some measurements, and justify the cost.
Keep in mind, I live here in PA where marine building supplies are hard to come by. Seriously, I have to drive an hour and a half just to get marine Ply.....
Which leads me to my next question, why do I live here?
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Trans1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11091&title=trans1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/trans2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11092&title=trans2&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/trans3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11093&title=trans3&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/trans4.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11094&title=trans4&cat=500)
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The culprit is the half moon cutouts that allow water to drain to the blige, which were NOT glassed on the bottom. YAYYYYYYYY!
I will say, thank GOD I did that little 17, as this project seems a lot less daunting now.
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Always something, right?
The good news is that hull is worth the effort.
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It is always something. But, it's to be expected. With these rebuilds, engines included, you are always behind the eightball. Instead of prevenative maint, you are going through a laundry list of :*: that is flat out busted.
Anyhow, yes, the hull is worth it. However, all the research turns up one alarming fact: these things are very hard to do repairs on. EVERYTHING is glassed to EVERYTHING. Not just heavy duty adhesive, thickended resin and mat. The cap is classed to the transom/ stringer system. on top of that, like the AS's, there is foam in every cavity that might make an echo. Seriously, the hull sides and liner were both given a shooting of foam before being mated. Don't get me wrong, this is why most of these things are still around.
Anyhow, I dont know if the cost is really worth it for this boat in regards to the coosa.......thoughts? The next time the transom will need to repaired will be when I'm 65.
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This link will give everyone what a mess I'm about to have on my hands.
http://forums.bateau2.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=24157&start=10
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Christian, what I was figuring on a potential repair is just as observed....all of those parts became fairly monolithic.
It will be a BEAR to tear that boat out compared to a 70's Aquasport. The deck won't lift off the stringers as the injected foam is also a very strong adhesive, and there is a chitload of it. The parts will have to be mechanically separated.
You may consider drying her out as best possible, then patch the stringer glass and run her.
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Yea, they did a good job of creating a very strong boat.
I was planning on doing what you suggested, but Scott, it's BAD. Way worse than I expected, and there is no way in hell i'm taking that thing off shore with stringers having the consistancy of chewing tobacco.
I'd rather move the spash date out a month, and move my life expectancy out past this summer:) I've been taking my time to do everything correctly, so there is no sense in putting a bandaid on an axe wound.
Anyways, I hate the stupid splashwell that was designed to accomodate that lay down wood divider thinger......I want to extend a level deck all the way to the transom, so I can fish right to the back of the boat without tripping and falling overboard.
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I just re-read what you wrote, and if I had to redo the entire boat......I wouldn't. What little I can find about these boats online, seems to end in a stalled or unfinished project. The ones who did finish, were professional shops. And as you pointed, the boat needs to carefully cut apart. Most boat companies will use a caulk when screwing the liner and hull together, and use a strong bonding agent on the deck and stringers. Nope, but Hydrasport, they used a thickended resin to bond everything. It's like they had something to prove?
(Insert southern accent) "them saltwater sombitches aint gonna take us sparkley bass boat types seriously, we done better fix to make this thing indeerrrstructerable JEBIDIAH, MORE KEV-LAYER!"
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Hey, gotcha. If its that bad, let's do it right. I've run that boat, and as I said in the beginning, foot per foot it is the softest riding ocean hull I've ever been on. And that includes my buddy's 39 Contender.
And better to do it now than later.
You're going to have to figure out how far forward that stringer mush runs and attack accordingly ;)
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Christian, in reality, boat builders, when they deck a boat, do so in a manner where they DON'T want the thing to come apart. I have done/participated in/watched more boats being undecked than you'd want to know...talk about tearing up some caps!! So what you are seeing with your H-S is nothing unusual, just taken a little further than some other companies.
Scotty...you have an avatar!! :icon_cheers:
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Gottcha Bob! Its definatey above and beyond what most production boat companies will do, especially ones in 1980.
I think some of the older 3 piece custom boats actually used to bond the hullsides to the liner. I believe they actually put a negative vaccum pulling the 2 pieces together tightly while the bonding kicked off.
However, I think most builders dont go that crazy anymore. A lot of the 90's semi custom boats vaccum bagged the entire hull. Saves weight, but you honestly end up with a seriously noisy hull. I believe most companies core the hullsides to keep the weight downa nd the echo to a minimum.
Anyhow, point being, the best way to take those things apart would be an RPG,
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Pannel.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11106&title=pannel&cat=500)
Making the most of 20 degree weather.
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OoooHHHH preettyy and SO shiny!!
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it's so sad man.....5 degrees this morning.
Sent my console out to get it painted so I can at least get all the electronics/ gauges rigged in my garage when it's done. APPARENTLY, my wife get's all pissy when the entire house smells like toxic fumes, so I cant paint in the garage anymore.
The nice days will be spent outside with the boat, cutting out the old transom/ stringer core....getting it ready for warm weather when I can hop to it and start glassing. I want this thing in the water June 1st.
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Know this is probably wishful thinking, but any chance you could rent a little heated warehouse space? A empty bay somewhere?
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Sure, and it will run me around 800-1000 a month. I look all the time, and a heated garage up here is a tall order.
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The answer, Christian...torpedo heater...http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/masterreg%3B-kerosene-diesel-forced-air-heater-135000-btu
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So, I think the landlord would have an issue with me leaving that bad boy running for 10 hours while the glass kicks off:)
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We need to find somebody hungry for money! :wee_hee:
Down here there is a ton of empty space at the industrial parks....you guys must be further along in the recovery than us.
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Yeah, really. Down here we ahve so many unused bays you could probably get a climate controlled one for $250-300 plus utilities...only turn on the heat when needed. But then, except for today (was 40 at 10:15)...how often do we turn on our heat? ;)
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Went over durning lunch to take some measurements. God it sucks up here in the winter.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Snow1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11114&title=snow1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/snow2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11115&title=snow2&cat=500)
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........Also, I want to cut that bow rail off. I hate it so much. I hate all bow rails for that matter. Thoughts?
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/645498182_ksc0096_2_.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11116&title=645498182-ksc0096-2&cat=500)
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Aww, c'mom Christian, just a dusting on the ground, bud! Where's the real snow?
Remember, I'm from Chicago. WE...had snow...
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I'd cut it off too.
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Bob, you could be sticking crayons up your nose right now, and I'd still call you smart, as you no longer live up north.
You are correct though, its just a little dusting. However, it was 3 Degrees last night.
The hilarious part, since all the water in the transom froze, shes nice and hard now!!!!!
Thanks Scotty! If the wife didnt want it for the kids, I would have cut it off last year. Hold on.......that sounded bad.
Gotta use the cutting wheel on the grinder to cut the heads if the screws off, as they are they are bolted from the back side. Agian, well built boat, pain in the balls to take apart.
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Damn Christian, the crayons up the nose was yesterday...
The good thing about being well built, when you grind off the threads and punch the bolt shanks down out of the cap...they'll just fall on foam. Any other boat, they'd rattle around for a few years in the hull (driving you crazy!), then eventually work their way astern and clog weepholes you can't get to.
See? Method to their madness...
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Yep, but just knowing they are down there pisses off my OCD.
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Yep, but just knowing they are down there pisses off my OCD.
It's CDO. A true OCD person would want the letters in aphabetical order...
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Yep, but just knowing they are down there pisses off my OCD.
It's CDO. A true OCD person would want the letters in aphabetical order...
Ha! :clap:
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OK, found a place local (an hour away), that sells Penske board, so that is what I'm using for the transom/ stringers/ rear deck.
I've done a lot of research on the intergoogles. and it seems there is no one way to do this. I'll create a template for the penske board, cut them out and glue the 2 3/4 pieces together. From there, I have a few questions:
1. Once i have the inside skin of the transom all cleaned up and ready for the new core, I see some people laying another sheet of 1708 before using cabosil putty to bond the new core to the skin (will use bolts through the transom holding the core to the skin). Is adding another layer of glass necessary? This thing already has a ton of glass.
2. After gaps are filled and a filet is created around the corners of the new core, what is the best Biaxal cloth to use to skin the inside? 1808? 1708? Roven woven for thickness?
Any good tricks? Suggestions?
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Christian, tried to Private Message (PM) you, but can't find the darn button.
How about giving me a call...nine one oh 76 three six 6 one 6, tx.
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Christian, tried to Private Message (PM) you, but can't find the darn button.
Below the Avatar, or member info, on the left are a few little icons. Hover over them and you find the one you need.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3762.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11328&title=img-3762&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3767.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11329&title=img-3767&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3769.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11330&title=img-3769&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3776.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11331&title=img-3776&cat=500)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3787.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11332&title=img-3787&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3791.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11335&title=img-3791&cat=500)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3774.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11334&title=img-3774&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3773.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11333&title=img-3773&cat=500)
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Started tearing the transom out this weekend. Lots of fun. Despite it being completely shot, it sure did put up a fight coming out.
The port stringer is really bad, and I'll need to go forward further. There are those boxes in the way. Question:
They did not support the deck, so I'm assuming they are structual? However, they have very little glass on them, and have 1/2 inch plywood cooring. They are filled with foam.....so I'm wondering of they are simply for flotation. If this is the case, I'm inclined to remove them.
Suggestions??? Maybe just replace them with a coosa "cross member"?
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I have no idea what they would be for unless there is lead weight in them for getting the CG right :017:
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Exactly as you surmise, sealed flotation chambers. I'd ditch 'em. Gives you a lot more room for bilge/bait/washdown pumps, freshwater etc. And heck, you may ditch significant weight if they're waterlogged.
Plus those bilges were small to start with.
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Figured as much.
The 2400, which this was built from, had grid stringer system, like the AS. (glass filled with foam). However, mine is wood. Why the hell wouldnt they just shorten up the stringer when it comes out of the mold and glass it in? I guess it may have interfered with the 2100 deck layout.
From what little information I can find, it looks like the later 2100's did have a glass stringer system. Anyhow, the boxes are coming out, and oversized stringers will be built into non rotted stringer structure.
GOnna drop about $600 bills on Penske board....but hey, it will last a lifetime.
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The final years 2100 morphed to the 2200 which isn't nearly the ride you have.
Yours looks exactly like my old boat. Massive boxes which I never figured out given the two little twist offs for bilge access. Back then (I was 28) figured those big boxes were the stringers, based upon what I could see.
You hit the nail on the head, bet they had an insert in the 2400 mold where they could produce either a 24 or 21. Then fill in the blanks.
You're idea with the coosa bulkheads is how I'd proceed. Looking forward to seeing how heavy those boxes are when you pull 'em. Get the weight out of the arse end....good news :;D:
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Who knows with OMC, but after some inspection, I don't believe the 21 is just a shortened 24. Take a look on the web, the 24 looks to have more freeboard and seems to have more beam? Let me know what you think.
I guess in the later years, they got around to popping the entire stringer system of a mold.
im building it to last, as I'll likely be giving it to my sister....that is when I find my 25 contender/intrepid/sea vee etc:)
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Back in the day, it wasn't OMC. 'Twas Hydrasport of Tennessee. And they took the offshore center console market by storm. Kevlar hulls, lightning bolts, and soft entry. Seacraft was scrambling.
After looking at the aft end left dangling on your 2100....have one US dollar to wager that the 2100 was a 2400, plugged on the length. Have ridden both. Not a hair of difference on the freeboard. Both freeboards are short by today's standards.
If you see a 2400 for sale there....please let me know. Tx!
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Man, there really isnt much information on the old hydrasport. What I've foubnd in regards to history, seems incorrect. I'd love to see some old brochures....havent found anything.
Let me do some research on the 21 vs the 24, I'll take your bet sir!!!!!
PS: any word on the layup schedule according to your builder? I'm using penske board.
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(http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j331/gran398/IMG_1267.jpg)
Here is a pic of the core. More can be found 2/3rds down the first page of the Low Cholesterol Version of the Miss D build.
I'll be talking with Chris tonight and get the exact skinny on the layup/procedure etc.
Hang onto my dollar!! :laugh03:
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Let me do some research on the 21 vs the 24, I'll take your bet sir!!!!!
A giveaway would be beam width but.....
Both appear to be the same................. 96".
Looks like Gran is stretching both the mold and his dollar.
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I don't know, after looking at this pic I may be FOS.
Weird how the stringers ended on Christians 2100 however.
They look pretty close though....here's the 2400
(http://images1.allboatlistings.com/nlarge/hydra-sports_21236408.jpg)
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Scott,
I think I owe you a dollar. After really looking, I think you are correct.
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All good as the kids say. Guess we'll never know, but it is plausible. Builders do different things all the time with molds. Onslow Bay has just started producing a stepped version of their 32. All they did was add two male pieces to the mold. Voila....a stepped hull. If you want the regular hull, no problem. The two parts are easily removed.
Spoke with Chris about your transom layup.
Against the outer skin, lay three layers of glass: Mat, roving, mat. You will overlap these into the bottom of the hull (rear bilge). Then while this is still wet, wet out the glass on the first piece of Penske board. Clamp everthing together and let cure.
You then come over the inside Penske board with three layers of mat, no roving. Wet out the second piece of board, clamp and let cure.
Finish with mat/roving/mat as before, tied to the hull. Fair, sand and spray gelcoat, you're through.
This layup duplicates the core sample shown above.
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Ordering my supplies shortly.
I'm assuming the 3/4 oz mat is fine? Also, did you mean 18 roving, or should I be using 1708?
Also, Suggestions for clamping the board toward the keel? Drill a hole and use a bolt?
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Fletch, here is a lam schedule that Eugene posted a while back and a lot of us have followed:
Completed transom lam schedule is as follows:
3/4 oz mat
3 x 1708
3 x 3/4 oz mat (clamped between core and outer transom lams)
3/4" Penske, 3/4 oz mat, 3/4" Penske (1.5" core)
3 x 1708
3/4 oz mat
Remember that the hullside and bottom laminates extend w/ overlaps 6" into the outer skin laminates of the transom as well prior to clamping of the core. Easy and effective way to beef up the lam schedule.
Here is a link to a rebuild he did that shows a bunch of different aspects of lam schedules, how to do the lam, clamping, etc.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=9991.0
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Nice!
I'm assuming he is speaking about 1708 without the mat stitched on, correct?
Scotty's guy has me going right for the kill and glassing the core in right away, I'm guessing either way is fine.
Also, I'm assuming before the inside layer of glass goes in (applied to core in bildge), I want to apply Carbosil putty in voids and create a nice filet around the edges?
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There is usually a different part# if the 1708 does not have the mat stitched on - like 1708-DB or something like that.
If you look at the pics in the build you see them lamming the first 3 layers and then clamping that, then they started with the 3/4oz and built it out from there.
Eugene has been checking in here lately, maybe he'll reply to the specifics you asked, since it's his lam schedule.
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I like the idea of using that MDF stuff to get the transom flat before moving on. As of right now, the skin bowed out, due to the wood cooring freezing and expanding. This will get her back into correct form. I think I'll move forward accordingly.
I also like the clamps, no need to drill holes!
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Some people drill holes to ensure a good pull into the thickened resin. Another bunch of holes to patch though.
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What about the drain plug, any suggestion for what works best?
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Here is the technique used by Rick and Chris (Dirtwheels) for their install.
Go down to the third post.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.500
Dirt's install.
http://(http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy167/dirtwheelsfl/IMG_1916.jpg) (http://s788.photobucket.com/user/dirtwheelsfl/media/IMG_1916.jpg.html)
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I think the main concern is how do you keep the drain hole as close to the bottom as possible? You will inherantly be building up the thickness of the hull by lamming it with 6 or more layers of cloth. That will make the very aft of the hull by the transom higher than the area 1 - 2 ft in front of the transom. So water will pool in front of the drain plug. That is what is happening in my hull :03:
If I was to do it again I would think about placing a one foot 1" ID PVC pipe into the drain hole at it's lowest point and glueing it to the hull bottom and transom inside. Then start lamming the transom.
When ready to do the core, cut a semi circle out of the transom composite big enough to be able to lam it around the pipe or cut it tight, your call, it's composite anyway so it won't suck up any water. Then do the 4 layers of cloth/CSM to the front of the transom material and lam it right over the pipe. When all done I would take a grinder and grind the pipe at an angle up as close to the transom as possible without grinding much into the cloth layers on the hull and it will now still be the low point.
I would also still do the insert for the garboard plugs as shown in Chris's example. Less holes through the transom to leak.
Something to think about.
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Pretty interesting! There's a lot of thought there. However, being that I'm using Penske, I'm not as worried about the scrwes. However, I think the PVC sleeve is a great idea!
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Hey guys,
Recently moved to a new house, so the boat was put on the back burner for a few weeks. However, got a chance to do some demo this past Sunday. With any luck, I'll start glassing in the transom next weekend. Here's some pics. I'm really astonished at the amount of wood that was not glassed.....just plywood. Also, as you will see, I'm 3 feet forward in the stringers before the wood is not complete mulch....had to cut up more decking. Ugh.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_4087.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11818&title=img-4087&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_4089.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11819&title=img-4089&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_4090.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11820&title=img-4090&cat=500)
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OK,
SO, the deck itself is about 1/2 inch thick, glass with what looks to be a synthetic of some type sandwiched between the glass.
Instead of just building up the liner deck, they built a subfloor (deck) that was glassed into the stringers and hullsides. Not only does the stringer system have cross members, but the sub deck ties everything in as well. Did i mentioned it is glassed on both sides? THEN filled with foam???
At this point, they bonded the liner AND the hullsides.....and my GOD did they use a TON of thickened resin to bond everything.
I'm assuming they built the boat this way to none of the structual intrgrity was passed throguh the liner?
Any other boats of the era built like this?? Ive said it before, but I just can't get over how much effort they put into glassing everythinng to freakin everthing.
NIGHTMARE TO WORK ON.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_4094.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11882&title=img-4094&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_4095.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11883&title=img-4095&cat=500)
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No worries. Will call you tomorrow.
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Wow, talk about heavy !
Pretty sloppy too, but par for the course in most production boats.
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Guys,
Had a nice convo today with our resident master rebuilder (Scotty), and I think I'm going to take his advice. The stringers dont look very good, and scarfing into them at this point, isnt the right move. I'll be removing the deck all the way into the front of the coffin.
After 20 minutes on the phone, Scotty told me what I already knew. Spend an extra month in construction, or be 30 miles out wondering when the stringers are going to pop off the bottom.
Long and short. I'm removing 800 pounds of foam, and completely unnecessary amounts of plywood. Likely ditch the coffin too and just build a box for the new poly tank.
So, this will end up a later summer splash:(
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I agree with the advice you received from Gran. It's better to be sure of what you have when you're done.
So that everyone understands, we have a Master Rebuilder group here on ClassicAquasport.com to honor people that 1) are not pros and 2) had the guts and fortitude to tackle rebuilding their boat themselves and have documented it here for our members to see and learn from, from beginning to end. Anyone that is in that group displays the badge (group name) under his/her Avatar.
While Gran did indeed watch his boat being rebuilt by professionals and learned from that I'm sure, this does not earn him a membership in the group, nor let him wear the coveted Master Rebuilder badge under his Avatar.
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That Scotty guy...wiser beyond his years! Sound advice for sure!
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That Scotty guy...wiser beyond his years!
Just so there's no misunderstanding....he's not that young. :old01:
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roflmao roflmao roflmao
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For the record I never referred to myself as a M R, but thank you for the compliment Fletch!
Thank you too Craig and Pops!
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_4107.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11892&title=img-4107&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_4110.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11894&title=img-4110&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_4127.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11935&title=img-4127&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_4128.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11936&title=img-4128&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_4129.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11937&title=img-4129&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_4132.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11938&title=img-4132&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_4133.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11939&title=img-4133&cat=500)
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I am coming into this one late as I am a new member. My father had a 1700CC from the same era and it was a great boat. I fished it well offshore out of Atlantic City and never felt unsafe, even when the swells were blocking the horizon. I have an old brochure from that time period, although there is no date on it. In the back there are a couple of pictures showing their stringer grid being installed and some copy explaining how this grillage system was used to replace the wood in a traditional stringer system. Your boat seems to have been built before this switch if it is a plywood cored system.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/2/Stringer_Grid_01.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11951&title=hydra-sport-stringers&cat=2)
Both pictures do show the boxes back aft which I believe were used for flotation to possibly allow the boat to have upright, level flotation, not just basic flotation that was required by the Coast Guard. That would also explain the foam in the hull sides. Boats over 20' were not required to have upright flotation, so this was them making sure they built a superior boat.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/2/Stringer_Grid_02.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11952&title=hydra-sport-stringers&cat=2)
I am curious how you are supporting your hull now that the stringers have been cut out? If you don't maintain the shape precisely, you could have a real issue once you glass the new stringers in. I have been designing boats for nearly 30 years and am always amazed when I see boats that have been cut open. Sometimes it is a good amazed, others . . . not so good!
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Awesome! Do you have the pictures of the 2100 in the brochure? I've looked high and low looking for old literature on these boats.....found NOTHING. Just getting information about these boats is tough.
I'm keeping the boat on the trailer, with the outter stringers still in tact. Shes a little wobbly, but no bucktailing on the bottom.
So, you like me, grew up fishing on this model. Now, I was 7 years old, but I remember the boat dominating large chop going out the great egg Inlet (Which I'm sure you know, can get real dicey).
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/wings.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=11955&title=wings&cat=500)
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Fletch,
Check your PM for a message. We had the little brother to your boat, the 1700 CC. I only went out of Great Egg Inlet once. I had decided to take a ride all the way around Absecon Island and had run through all the back waterways on the inside and then reached the inlet, where I found really steep 4'-6' waves that were standing up with whitecaps on them. The inlet was being dredged, so all it had were some temporary buoys marking the center of the channel. Being young and stupid, I figured it would be calmer in the ocean once I got outside and I really didn't want to poke along in the backwaters again. So I picked my way out of the inlet until I thought I was in the ocean and turned north. At one point in the inlet, I went flying off the top of a wave and I heard the prop come out of the water. When I landed the outboard somehow threw water forward and drenched my back, still don't know how that happened!
The seas were just as big outside, but they were longer and smoother, so I opened her up to a high cruise. She was really good in a following sea, surfing down the face of the waves without burying her bow. I ran up to Absecon Inlet, which is the one we normally used as we lived on Brigantine Island, and cruised back in there. As usual, it was nearly flat calm. I wish my little truck could tow one of those 1700's, I passed one up for $600 when I was looking for a little boat last year. These were really great boats!
Be careful climbing around in your boat. Those outboard stringers are so far out that they offer little support for the center of the bottom panels. They must be there to support the deck outboard.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Stencil.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12105&title=transom-stencil&cat=500)
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3 layers of 1708 down, building up the transom skin. Shes going to be TOUGH.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/1708.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12138&title=1708&cat=500)
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Looking good Fletch - nice and clean work :thumright:
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Thank you! Here are some pictures of the transom core. Using a new product called core- lite. It's awesome, and HALF the cost of coosa. $150 a sheet, and REALLY easy to work with. New product, I'm really impressed. Bad news for Coosa and Penske (airex or whatever).
This stuff is WAY easier to work with, and almost the same cost as marine ply:
http://www.corelitecomposites.com/corelite-board.html
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Core2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12198&title=core2&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/core1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12199&title=core1&cat=500)
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Down here at Lowes you can buy Marine ply for $85/sht. :?:
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Well......Up here you can't buy marine ply......anywhere. So, my options are limited, and I didnt want to use wood anyway.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stringers1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12232&title=stringers1&cat=500)
Drafted and cut the stringers. With any luck, they will be in this weekend.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/tabbed_in.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12399&title=tabbed-in&cat=500)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stringers11.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12444&title=stringers11&cat=500)
Test fit, everything looks good thus far.
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Progress is a good thing - looks good :thumleft:
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_glassed_in.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12453&title=transom-glassed-in&cat=500)
Transom is glassed in! Time to start tabbing in the stringers!
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/String3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12611&title=string3&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/String2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12610&title=string2&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/String3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12611&title=string3&cat=500)
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That'll be stout :thumright:
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Fletch
What are you using for the stingers. I'm looking for options for bulkheads.
Thanks
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I'm using this new stuff called corelite.
http://www.corelitecomposites.com/corelite-board.html
It's half the cost of Penske (Airex) and Coosa. For $150 bucks a sheet, it's the best thing on the market. The price between marine ply and Corelite is so small, it makes this a no brainer. Also, it's 15% lighter.I am using this for my decks as well. Mat on the bottom, 1708 on the deck itself.
I've seen this product used, and I think it's very similiar.....however not "Marketed" for marine use. From what I see, it's the same stuff:
http://www.certainteed.com/products/trim/sheets/317650
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Thanks. Can you buy it local or do they ship full sheets. Just priced 3/4" coosa ($350) a 4'x8' sheet. That made me think about marine plywood.
getting close to working on my stringers.
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Not sure about shipping, which is usually a deal breaker (as it is ridiculously expensive). I purchased mine from Barnegat light Fiberglass Supply in NJ. I'm sure if you called Corelite, they could tell you who stocks it around you.
So, Coosa is great stuff, but it's ungodly expensive. Also, coosa is a mess to work with. The only downside of the corelite stuff is that it does flex more than standard Marine ply. Thus, I'm glassing both sides of the deck.
I had that come to jesus moment, when I realized that for just a few more bucks, this boat would never rot......ever. I decided to go for a composite. When I was turned on to Corelite, it was a no brainer. The stuff is so easy to work with, and really seems to soak up resin without sanding.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/x.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12787&title=x&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/x1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12788&title=x1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/x2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12789&title=x2&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/x4.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12790&title=x4&cat=500)
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Looks like you're getting close to buttoning her back up. Lookin good Fletch :salut2:
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Thanks Rick, still have a ton of work before she gets off to paint this winter. I really thought I'd have it done for the fall, but if I'm being realistic, I don't think it's going to happen. I'm just taking my time and doing it to the best of my abilities.
The only thing I'm farming out is the paint (I'll prime it), and the starboard work for the doors and rod storage trim.....all of which will be done in a heated shop during the winter months.
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Hi Fletch - I just found this thread with The Google and signed up for this forum because of it. I have a 1985 Hydrapsorts 2100cc - the actual boat I used to fish on with my granddad as a teen. Been doing a lot of work on it - including the transom a couple years ago. I got rid of the 2thirsty5 and put a 1999 200 Ocean Runner on it and it drives niiiice. Havent' taken the decking off or anything - and after seeing this thread, I don't plan to. Polished it up a few weeks ago and it looks fairly stunning - particuarly the glitter in the 'lightning bolt'. This is a pre-polish pic. Will post some more up near future.
If you ever find a brochure or owners manual, I'd sure love to see it!
Thanks
CD
http://chrisdixonreports.com
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Haven't been here in a while, but thought I should mention something. In your old stringer system, the wood was the structural component, not the fiberglass. It has to do with the relative stiffness of the two materials. With the foam cored stringers, the foam is essentially just a form for the fiberglass, which is now carrying all of the structural loads. You need to make sure you have enough glass to support the loads. Just off the top of my head, I would have used 3 layers of 1708 0/90 material or two layers of 2415 fabmat. You also need to make sure you wrap the top of the stringers with glass as that ties the two sides together and creates a beam. Some people will overlap the two sides at the top to make it extra thick and strong. It looks like your boat is coming along nicely, great job!
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Nice explanation and analysis BD :thumleft:
Thanks for hanging out with us :nSalute:
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Hey all! Back on track with this build. Finally got the stringers done, and have started installing the rigging tube. I will follow up with pictures as soon as I can!
Chris, I'm glad you found this! There really isn't much out there in the way of information for these boats. BD sent me most of what he had. Shoot me your email and I'll forward over what I have.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stringers_in.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12968&title=stringers-in&cat=500)
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Also, as I put the deck down, I will be (outside of using a ton of putty), will be tabbing the deck to the stringers from the bottom side.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Brick_hit_house.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12979&title=brick-hit-house&cat=500)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/coffin.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12981&title=coffin&cat=500)
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Nice progress Fletch :thumleft:
What are you going with for the tank - poly?
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Yep! 85 gallon poly. I wish it was bigger....especially with the 225 Carb merc, but it will do. I still cant get a good burn rate from things I read on the internet....so I guess I'll have to do the work myself:)
Advice for anyone who is building stringers that are not foam filled: Allow 4 times the time and resin......What a pain in the rear that was.
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Looking good Fletch :thumleft:!
Just a reminder to those of you installing poly tanks (which is also what I am doing). Make sure you leave enough room on all sides and above the tank for expansion. The tank will expand 2-4% (IIRC) in all directions once the poly reacts with gas. In your setup above, if those ribs are snug against a brand new poly tank, it might not be pretty once the tank expands. You may be aware of this already, but I figure I would bring it up just in case....
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Thanks for the heads up. I'm aware the tanks expand, so there is some room for said expansion.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/tank_in.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13030&title=tank-in&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/deck_under.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13029&title=deck-under&cat=500)
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Fletch, how did you like the corelite. Are you doing your floor with it?
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The corelite stuff is awesome. As I've stated before, there is no good reason to use anything else. Just as good as Coosa, and easier to work with. At a price point that for literally a few extra bucks, Marine Plywood would be foolish. I bought mine from Barnegat Light Fiberglass Supply.....great guys. I think it was $140 bucks a sheet.
I see you are in Somers Point, where I do all my boating. When she is done, you can see her in the C-Jam marina. Joe from Signature fiberglass will be painting it this winter.
-Christian
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Sheet_1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13045&title=sheet-1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Sheet_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13046&title=sheet-2&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Sheet_3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13047&title=sheet-3&cat=500)
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Made some progress today.
Made a few sheets for the rear storage doors, and built the splash well that will be glassed into the 3rd decking sheet.
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Question for you guys: I'll be cutting the sheets to fit the holes so to speak. What is the best way to install the glass patch panels? For the console, I'm going to use some scrap plywood, and on the front, drill through the console and the patch panel, using the plywood to hold the panel flush. At that point, I'll tab it in from the back. However, I will not have access to the back for the rear storage area. What is best practice for installing the panels where there is no access from behind? Should I consider installing butt blocks? Any insight is greatly appreciated!
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Question for you guys: I'll be cutting the sheets to fit the holes so to speak. What is the best way to install the glass patch panels? For the console, I'm going to use some scrap plywood, and on the front, drill through the console and the patch panel, using the plywood to hold the panel flush. At that point, I'll tab it in from the back. However, I will not have access to the back for the rear storage area. What is best practice for installing the panels where there is no access from behind? Should I consider installing butt blocks? Any insight is greatly appreciated!
The spaces in the very rear right? Looks like you could glue cleats to the transom and around the perimeter maybe?
Are you going to be putting access plates in those spots? If so you could just hot glue gun some temporary cleats in there and knock em out after you've got the filler pieces all tabbed on the outside. Then tab the inside thru your access holes. Either way!
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Hey man, Yes there will be your run of the mill PVC hatches for access.
Looks like the tabs is the ticket. Thanks brother!
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Foam5.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13071&title=foam5&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Foam4.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13070&title=foam4&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/FOAM2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13067&title=foam2&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Foam1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13068&title=foam1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Foam3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13069&title=foam3&cat=500)
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Well, that was fun. Got her foamed in. However, put way too much foam in the port side of the boat. The interesting part of LxWxH in a deep v boat, you need to measure in the center of the cavity, not the deepest part (which is obvious now, I just wanted to make sure I ordered enough. Soooo things got pretty out of hand when the foam expanded:) As you can see, it pushed the fill line and vent line up above where the deck would be. SOOO, had to painstakingly remove the foam around the lines without damaging them.
Got the patch panel in the console, and I'm very happy with the results. For that, I actually put the console on it side on the flat ground, put a car battery on the back of the panel to keep pressure, and tabbed around the edges. Worked really really well!
The key was my key to my Dad's house, foamed it into the starboard side. I guess the idea is that I'll always be "home" on the boat.
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Comin together! Cleats looks good :great02:
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Yeah that foam has a mind of it's own sometimes :41:
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/New_Truck_1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13073&title=new-truck-1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/New_Truck_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13074&title=new-truck-2&cat=500)
Got myself a nice new pull vehicle. Should do the trick:)
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:thumleft:
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Does anyone make a "drop in" anchor locker like this? I don't want my anchor in the bow just flailing all over.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/232-storage-forward-anchor-locker-w-rode-storage.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13081&title=232-storage-forward-anchor-locker-w-rode-storage&cat=500)
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This topic has been broached before and the results weren't promising.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=5027.0
Rebuilding the forward section of the cap would be the time to construct a custom model.
Can't recall anyone attempting it as of now.
Good luck. :thumright:
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On one of my visits to my local boat builder (Young Boats), they were installing an anchor locker similar to the one you posted on a rebuild they were working on. I imagine they would sell one for you to install, but I bet it would be pricey. I recommend you call a local boat builder, or even non-local if you want to pay shipping, and see if they can make you one.
I am currently kicking around the idea of making my own. But I haven't made a final decision yet. I've got a little time to think about it.
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Not a fan of the whole "receiver" to hold the anchor... Waste of space (and time to build) to me.
Glass in a pipe for the shank to slide into with notches to hold the tines of the anchor horizontally. Then you've got all the space in there to keep all of your gear along with the rode.
Found this on google... http://s75.photobucket.com/user/_DoubleR_/media/Anchor001.jpg.html
A one off hatch and gutter mold would be a drop in the bucket on your build to make! I think Shine has some premades as well that look real nice, just have to glass n fair em in...
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That's a pretty slick idea on the locker in the pic. You need a lot of room up front for that though - like the deck you made on yours Chris. :13:
Sounds like your idea is a little different though Chris, "tines horizontally" - you mean the rod that connects the tines?
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That's a pretty slick idea on the locker in the pic. You need a lot of room up front for that though - like the deck you made on yours Chris. :13:
Sounds like your idea is a little different though Chris, "tines horizontally" - you mean the rod that connects the tines?
Yes the round bar. Not sure what to call it??
Gota pic of the cap up there Fletch?
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Man, I really like that tube Idea, I don't have that type of space......also, the liner to the anchor liner is finished, I would hate to mess it up with my sub-par fiberglass skills.
Do any of you have some ideas to keep that anchor secured? Again, the inside of the anchor locker is a liner, and finished. I am painting the undersides of the hatches an all compartments the hull color, Ice blue. Going to try to keep them from getting completely screwed up.
Maybe glass in "hooks" for the anchor to hang from under the cap?
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Drain3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13088&title=drain3&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Drain2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13087&title=drain2&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Drain1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13086&title=drain1&cat=500)
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Got most everything run and installed that needs to be before I glue down the last deck panel. Pretty happy with how the drainage channel came out! Should have the deck down tomorrow! (I hope, as we are in for some serious rain for the next few days).
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Dash1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13103&title=dash1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Dash2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13104&title=dash2&cat=500)
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Spent some time last night getting everything cut out (Besides the hole for the Simrad NSS).
Going to have some decent weather on Saturday, so Hopefully the console will get another shot of 545 Primer.
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You know you're getting close when you start cutting holes :thumleft:
I cut mine in about a year ago or whenever I was working on my console :a0004:
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Rick, it may be a year ago, but you will have likely the nicest 17 AS ever built....so thats awesome. As I joked about before, the first 100k 17 foot aquasport:)
If I had to do it agian, I would have done my 17 completely different. BUT, it was a learning experience. I was getting married, and towards the end, had a kid on the way. SO, funds were a little low, so I did the best I could. From what I hear, the guy who bought it from my uncle blew it up. Oh well. Maybe I'll build another one someday:)
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Rick, it may be a year ago, but you will have likely the nicest 17 AS ever built....so thats awesome. As I joked about before, the first 100k 17 foot aquasport:)
Thanks man - I hope it ends up worth all the effort - the effort is what is costly. If my labor value was a mere $100.00/hr, the value of the boat would be much less, but it's not, hence the $100k boat.
:57: :laugh03:
It's all been fun and a learning experience for sure.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13117&title=deck1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13118&title=deck2&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/deck3.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13119&title=deck3&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/deck5.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13121&title=deck5&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/deck4.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13120&title=deck4&cat=500)
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Aiiiiiiight. So got the deck down last week. This weekend was a little chilly, so I wasn't able to get much glassing done. I used some scrap wood to level the deck with the liner (for whatever reason, the 34 year old boat isn't perfect:) Tabbed in the right elevation. There are some gaps between the deck and liner, so now that the deck is "level-----ish" I'm going to fill the gaps with putty, and tab in the edges. Anyways, we are in for some nice weather in the 70's this week, should have the deck completely glassed in, and hopefully have the rear patch panels glassed in as well.
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I was always a big fan of your first rebuild in that you had no real prior experience (I could relate).
This rebuild is as if you have been doing it for a long while. You certainly retained a lot of knowledge from the first.
It's coming along very nicely. :salut:
Good luck. :thumright:
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Glass1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13123&title=deck-glass1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Deck_Glass2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13124&title=deck-glass2&cat=500)
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First Layer of 1708 is down. Will require a good sanding and grinding in areas to make this more flush with the existing wavy liner:(
Oh well, nothing some filler can't fix.....right?
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Ready_For_Paint.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13171&title=ready-for-paint&cat=500)
Last cut made, the console is at the painters. Should have her back in a few weeks to start the rigging. (of the console that is)
As for the rest of the boat, I have 2 weeks to do some sanding and bondo before it gets shrink wrapped for the winter. Sorry to say, I just ran out of time and warm weather. So, come April will come the final glass/ fairing/ and paint. Then I get to put her all back together......the really fun part:)
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Back at it, console finally got back from paint, and I got everything (but the windshield) installed. Will be rigging the electronics/wiring in the console on the rainy and cold days. Pulling the shrink wrap off this week and picking up where I left off.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/210.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13791&title=210&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/113.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13789&title=113&cat=500)
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Console looks great! I really like the layout. Is that a NSS or Evo 2? I have a NSS7 on my 205. It will go on the tower of my flatback and I'll put an Evo 2 on the console. Someday....
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That there sir is the new Evo 2. Totally worth the money.
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OK, let's start wiring this bad boy.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/37.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13820&title=37&cat=500)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/56.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13850&title=56&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/47.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13849&title=47&cat=500)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/122.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14103&title=122&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/107.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14101&title=107&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/114.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14102&title=114&cat=500)
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Whats up guys, got some work done today....which is awesome case it's been raining for about a month now. Got the transom cap glassed on and cut to form, as well as adding some roven betwen the layup of 1708, to remove a bit of a "dip" in the deck.
This weekend, I will be grinding and sanding the deck for the last layer of 1708.
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Fitting the floor to the liner really sux, looks like you past that part.
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For that size dance floor you might consider renting a floor sanding machine - it would knock it out quickly, like a big floor buffing machine with sandpaper on it.
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Thats actually a great idea! I wonder if my local rental place ha them.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/131.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14113&title=131&cat=500)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/141.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14141&title=141&cat=500)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/162.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14345&title=162&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/151.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14344&title=151&cat=500)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/171.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14431&title=171&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/182.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14432&title=182&cat=500)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/223.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14455&title=223&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/213.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14453&title=213&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14452&title=20&cat=500)
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:thumleft:
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/231.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14473&title=231&cat=500)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/241.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14474&title=241&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/251.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14475&title=251&cat=500)
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Now you're talking :bravo_2:
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/281.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14496&title=281&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/291.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14497&title=291&cat=500)
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Hey guys, got a bunch done! She is 75% rigged, just need to attach everything to the motor, and we're in business.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/321.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14548&title=321&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/331.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14549&title=331&cat=500)
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:whistle: :whistle:
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/341.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14588&title=341&cat=500)
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Hi Fletch,
That's a great looking boat. I just bought my dad's old boat from my sister. I can't wait to get it fixed up and back on the water. I'm sure I'll have tons of questions along the way. Here's a pic of what it looked like when I pulled it out of the barn.
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Hey man!! That looks just like the one I had when I was a kid! Hit me up with any questions you have. Glad to help.
Outside of the bow rail, she looks to be in really good shape. Is the motor running?
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/361.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14596&title=361&cat=500)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/371.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14691&title=371&cat=500)
40% of these wires are not used. Being that they are faded makes it even more fun. Good lord.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/371.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14691&title=371&cat=500)
40% of these wires are not used. Being that they are faded makes it even more fun. Good lord.
Yeah I just went through that with my 170. There were more splices into the harness for this and that, that I ended up 1) replacing the harness and 2) traced and figured out what I needed to add to the new harness to make it work....and it did. But I haven't hooked up any gauges or anything to it yet. But it started :-)
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Yea, I hear you. The console was even worse.....it was like a spaghetti fight, or the place where wires go to die. Either way, a mess. Years of people who don't know what they are doing (See also: Me) hacking the thing to pieces trying to hook up their electronics.
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My dad cut the center of bow rail out so that it would be easier to board/exit from the bow. The motor was running when it was parked in 2013. I haven't tried to start it yet but it does turn over. The biggest problem I've seen so far is that the transom is warped and soft in the center. I'm not looking forward to that repair. Too many years of that big Johnson 235 hanging off the back I guess. All the wood work is going to need to be refinished but that shouldn't be a problem. The big floor hatch between the front seats is very soft and will need repair. I'm going to try to get it running and use it for a couple months before it gets too cold this year. Then I'm going to start working on the transom over the winter.
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Sounds like a plan.
Test the stringers to see of they have rot. If they seem good, I would HIGHLY recommend replacing the transom from the outside.
Here is a good reference.
http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/583599-hydra-sport-transom-replacement.html#b
If you have to replace the stringers and transom, I would really sit down and think about it. If this boat didn't have as much sentimental value to me and my family, I would have sold it and bought another project boat. This thing was a NIGHTMARE to build.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_0640.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14890&title=img-0640&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_06502.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14891&title=img-06502&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_06791.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14892&title=img-06791&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_0687.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14893&title=img-0687&cat=500)
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Initial Shake down done. The tilt/trim needs to be rebuilt, and I need a slightly smaller prop.
When this think hooked up out of the hole, It almost ripped my arms off. 3 people and full of fuel, she ran 48.6 mph, but only turning 4700 RPM. I think I can get her up to 55 with the prop.
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Congrats Fletch - looks real nice.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/s-l1600.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14933&title=s-l1600&cat=500)
55 MPH here we come!!!! Maybe a few MPH more light on fuel.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_7673_1_.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15621&title=img-7673-1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/39.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15620&title=39&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/214.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15619&title=214&cat=500)
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Came out nice. :thumright:
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Thanks! I will upload some videos when I get her splashed this spring.
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Sure looks good Fletch - nice job :bravo_2:
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Very nice!
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Incredible work Fletch!! She's a beauty!
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Sweet boat! Well done!
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She looks a lot better than this old pile of worm food:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/DSC01204.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13089&title=dsc01204&cat=500)
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I still cant believe this is the same boat. All the time, money, and especially work it took to build this thing.....without any formal training.
I'm fairly confident I now have the nicest 2100 Hydra on the planet.
Now I start saving my pennies for my 25 Competition:)
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Wow! I have been away from this thread for a really long time, what a great job! I really like the boat without the 'bolt, it looks completely different. I'll have to check back a bit more often to see how things go when your weather warms up. As for that next project, if it is as much work as this one, are you sure you don't want to just build one from scratch? Shameless plug time . . . I do have some stock plans that may be more fun to work on than an old boat! :D
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As long as you're not "Shamelessly" doing free advertising here. If you want to support the site let me know, it is very reasonable.
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OOPS! Sorry Rick! I didn't think there was enough public info available on me for someone to find my website. That surely wasn't my intention. Since I didn't provide any links or contact information I thought I was OK. I'll be more careful in the future.