Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Engines & engine woes => Topic started by: czizza on August 19, 2013, 03:36:37 PM
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I wanted to go out yesterday so as always I do a prep before we head down to the launch and this time I cannot lower or raise the motor it is stuck on the trailering stand.
I check and if I disconnect the wire form the motor I can see power on the blue and green wires, albeit that they alternate depending on whether I press up and down, which is correct.
Therefore my assumption is the electrical motor is dead. Is there anything else to look for? Is there a pressure switch or fluid level switch that cuts off the power to motor so you don't run dry?
The motor new is 190.00 and I plan on doing the swap tonight but wanted to do a final check just in case something stupid is blocking me.
Thanks,
-Melo
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Sounds like you've ruled out the switch since you can measure power at the motor connection. Somewhere between that connection and the brushes is kaput.
$190 doesn't really sound that bad for a motor since it is on a boat and performs a needed function :roll: . Aftermarket is a little lower.
Gotta love e-Bay. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/johnson-power-trim-motor (http://www.ebay.com/bhp/johnson-power-trim-motor)
Changing it out may be fun though. :|
Good luck.
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Yeah ... I heard some of the nightmares on the swap out. Something with two wires and four screws should be as easy as a Chevy water pump ... but sometimes you get the Ford pump with the crappy aluminum timing cover and now the fun begins ... oh boy!
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Can you hear the relays clicking?
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Yes, I hear clicking but now more problems. The release was frozen and now the flat head snapped ... Furthermore, the motor casing has holes and cracks in it ... it not rusted it is swiss cheese.
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Yes, I hear clicking but now more problems. The release was frozen and now the flat head snapped ... Furthermore, the motor casing has holes and cracks in it ... it not rusted it is swiss cheese.
Probably about time for some work then...
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Yes, here is why it broke:
(http://i409.photobucket.com/albums/pp171/czizza/The%20Boat/IMG_1529_zps58752b86.jpg) (http://s409.photobucket.com/user/czizza/media/The%20Boat/IMG_1529_zps58752b86.jpg.html)
There a hole in the case.
I am going to start a new thread called Trim and Tilt replacement based on now how much work I am going to have to do.
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Yes, here is why it broke:
(http://i409.photobucket.com/albums/pp171/czizza/The%20Boat/IMG_1529_zps58752b86.jpg) (http://s409.photobucket.com/user/czizza/media/The%20Boat/IMG_1529_zps58752b86.jpg.html)
There a hole in the case.
I am going to start a new thread called Trim and Tilt replacement based on now how much work I am going to have to do.
Go buy a couple of the best bi-metal sawzall blades you can find, from the corrosion condition, I am thinking when you get to the part of trying to remove the entire assembly from the engine bracket, those two pins are not going to budge. I cut mine on both sides, removed the TTU and then pressed the pieces out of the bracket like you would a U-Joint cap, you cant bang on them or it will break the bracket. Heat will also help.
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I was outside soaking the whole thing in PB Blaster and decided to see if any of the pins show signs of easy movement and yeah!! They move easy.
I am also thinking because the motor is 190, the manual release is 90, that's 280. If the valve body is shot then that's 400 and I will be in for 680.
I have seen used ones for 499 and 599 on Ebay so I might just buy and swap.