Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Plumbing => Topic started by: daniel123 on June 17, 2013, 10:59:12 AM
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I'm finding what I think is excessive water in the bilge of my '98 Osprey 200, and am trying to locate the source. The next time I'm out I'll check for leaks that might make themselves apparent when I'm on the water, running the bait well. Meanwhile, while it's on a trailer between fishing trips, I thought it would be good to test the hull for leaks by filling the bilge with water and to check the intake for the bait well and that system for leaks. When I got on my back to look at the intake to see if there was a way to stick a hose in there for a water source, I noticed that the white rubber seal/bedding around the (bronze?) through-hull fitting was missing a 1/2" section and that the remaining white, rubbery seal material felt tacky to the touch, and even left a white smear on my finger when I pinched it. That doesn't appear right.
I'd appreciate any comment on that, and advice on troubleshooting the water issue when the boat's on the water and on the trailer. And does anyone make a fitting to allow you to use a garden hose to test the raw water intakes while a boat is on a trailer, similar to 'earmuffs' offered for running outboards when the boat is on the trailer? Can you use the one "muff" side with the hose connection held (somehow) against the intake to test the plumbing while the boat is on the trailer?
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You need an inboard flush muff:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-marine-inb ... 257d41cff4 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-marine-inboard-engine-flusher-motor-flush-Livewell-Flushing-System-water-/161015255028?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item257d41cff4)
You can fill the bilge with some water, but be careful! At 8.3 lbs per gallon, you can cause a lot of damage by putting too much water in with the boat on a trailer.
Good luck!
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As far as the sealant being tacky, all polyurethanes (5200, Life Caulk, Sikaflex, etc.) will remain tacky, almost uncured beneath the skin. Not all of it, but some of it...
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As Cap'n John pointed out, filling your boat with enough water to test for leaks means a heck of a lot of additional weight on your trailer. If you go that route, I suggest supporting your trailer with blocks so that the weight is off the springs/axle/wheels.
And it sounds like the seal around your fitting is degrading. I would do the leak test first to confirm if that is the source, then remove the fitting and re-seal it (regardless of the outcome of the leak test).
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Thanks, guys. I'll look into that muff and the seal. Is there anything I should know/tips before I remove that through hull? When I stuck my finger in there it felt like there were protrusions or something that a special wrench might fit into?
I'm thinking/hoping I won't have to put too much water in the bilge to get it over that location and test its integrity from the inside.
Dan