Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Engines & engine woes => Topic started by: icemanbryan on March 28, 2013, 10:49:03 PM
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OK, I thought I should open a thread on this, I am sure people are tired of my derails.
On THT there is a pair of 2002 Johnson 175 outboards, seem to have lowish hours 5 to 600.
I have only seen the photos and the ad on THT, he is asking 5500.00 for the whole enchilada.
They are complete with prop's harness's and gauges, I would assume binnacle. but it is late there and I will call tomorrow.
In AL
I do believe they are the "better motors" after the buyout.
I am rated for 300 max however at 50 hp over it shouldn't cause any real problems.
I would really like the Pro's and Con's of these.
Opinions are always encouraged and expected.
I want to know if this is a decent investment.
I have a 94 Yamaha 250 that is better than good,new gauges and binnacle.
Runs excellent and has had all of the service work done. It is at 478 hours.
I will most likely sell the 250 but, that is another story.
I would feel much safer going to the Island, (Catalina) with a pair of outboards.
What you guy's thinking?
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I think they are a great deal. They are OBO so see what magic you can do. The guys name is Chipper and he runs a out building business there and seems like a nice guy. He has never run the motors, he traded for them from a guy that has a Prokat, and this guy never built his "dreamboat" so he never had anything to hook them to. I don't know if I'll be able to get them hooked up and running but I can get a really good look at them. He said palletizing them is no problem.
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My concern's would be 1) they have never ran with him.
2) they have been sitting for 4 plus years
3) sending a guy I don't know 5000.00 or so.
4) a major issue he might not know about
If the compression numbers are real, they are solid motors I would think.
All being said, they might be bought for a "deal"
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I think they are a great deal. They are OBO so see what magic you can do. The guys name is Chipper and he runs a out building business there and seems like a nice guy. He has never run the motors, he traded for them from a guy that has a Prokat, and this guy never built his "dreamboat" so he never had anything to hook them to. I don't know if I'll be able to get them hooked up and running but I can get a really good look at them. He said palletizing them is no problem.
Based on the info provided by Lew, the two previous owners never ran the motors. That's a RED FLAG in my book. All that would be needed to run the motors is a water supply, battery, and Jerry can.
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I'm with Nando. Let him take them to a good mechanic and get them running...Lew you're near this guy?
Bryan....you'll LOVE twin engines :cheers:
See you next weekend :thumright:
"Stay thirsty my friend" :mrgreen:
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My concern's would be 1) they have never ran with him.
2) they have been sitting for 4 plus years
3) sending a guy I don't know 5000.00 or so.
4) a major issue he might not know about
If the compression numbers are real, they are solid motors I would think.
All being said, they might be bought for a "deal"
Hi Bryan,
I often don't offer opinions about these things because everybody has one, but in this case I'll make an exception.
Do not take anyone's word on the condition of these engines, most folks do not know what they are looking at and will often use default words like clean and low hours without any knowledge of the history.
For $5K its worth a cheap seat on a plane do go look at them and talk to someone face to face about their history and get them checked out and hear them run yourself. If you like them, rent a Ryder truck and bring them back to CA.
Not sure if the actual engine hours can be extracted from the ECU's on '02 BRP's but someone will know.
Sounds like a good deal if they are represented honestly.
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Lewis has offered me an incredible favor.
He has offered to run by the guys house and check them out
on the way to Scotty's big to do next weekend!!
This guy has not used them.
However, according to him, they were running when he received them and I do believe he is telling the truth.
I just don't know if they were actually running, he might have been played on them??
He did trade them off the owner who upgraded to 225 4 strokes.
This came off the cat and he was going to build his cat and never did.
He sounds like a real nice guy and a very straight shooter, but yes he has not ran them in 4 years :shock: :shock: :shock:
He did have a guy come over and do a compression check on the pair.
I really think if we could get them fired up I would feel way better about spending the bucks.
I spoke to him a bit this morning, he owns a business there for 11 years.
I guess he is established there??
If Lew could get them running at least we would know where they stand as far as quality.
With the shipping and carbs etc, I was going to offer 4000.00 if they are running motors, if there is a problem :roll:
Not sure if I am in
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I think they are a great deal. They are OBO so see what magic you can do. The guys name is Chipper and he runs a out building business there and seems like a nice guy. He has never run the motors, he traded for them from a guy that has a Prokat, and this guy never built his "dreamboat" so he never had anything to hook them to. I don't know if I'll be able to get them hooked up and running but I can get a really good look at them. He said palletizing them is no problem.
Based on the info provided by Lew, the two previous owners never ran the motors. That's a RED FLAG in my book. All that would be needed to run the motors is a water supply, battery, and Jerry can.
No, he traded them when they were running, he was going to build a cat and never did.
They were running from the guy he got them from
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Bryan, I bought a 1974 Aquasport 22-2 four years ago out of Marco Island sight unseen, based upon my trust in the 79 year old owner.
I was guaranteed the right of inspection and refusal if not completely satisfied.
He denied to the Marco Island PD ever making that statement.
Lesson learned...even a man our dad's age can be a lying, cheating sack :*:. Get EVERYTHING in writing, and insist that it be notorized. The old bastard hit me for some serious money.
In this instance, as they have been sitting up for years...tell the guy to get them up and running, you have a knowledgeable friend coming to inspect. He certainly doesn't expect anyone to buy engines which can't be cranked and heard.
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Scott, very good point.
I really don't want to give in the neighborhood of 5 k away.
I was really busy today but spoke to him,.
I told him I would call tomorrow and discuss what I would expect him to do.
I would really like to have them running before I would be interested in buying them.
If it does not work out it does not work out.
I am fine where I am.
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I've always been a trusting sort. I've been ripped off more in the last eight years than in all the previous business years combined. Great Recession I guess...when times get tough...the golden rule gets abused.
Lew's offer to go hear them...that's what our club is all about.
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If "Chipper" has them on motor stands, then running them is a piece of cake. If they are laying on their sides on pallets, then he has a bit of work to do...
Bryan, haven't been on THT in a few days. Have you or anyone else insisted that they be run before considering purchase? Maybe I should go look...
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Bryan,
Posted in that thread about running them. See what he'll do...
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I've always been a trusting sort. I've been ripped off more in the last eight years than in all the previous business years combined. Great Recession I guess...when times get tough...the golden rule gets abused.
Lew's offer to go hear them...that's what our club is all about.
Me too.
I usually do it wit ha hand shake, never been burned (yet).
My opinion on the guy, he is telling what he believes, not a scammer.
I just don't know if he got scammed getting them
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Bryan,
Posted in that thread about running them. See what he'll do...
Thanks Bob I appreciate it.
How is M feeling after the treatment?
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BTW, just curious what is the cost of a new powerhead for these?
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If "Chipper" has them on motor stands, then running them is a piece of cake. If they are laying on their sides on pallets, then he has a bit of work to do...
Bryan, haven't been on THT in a few days. Have you or anyone else insisted that they be run before considering purchase? Maybe I should go look...
In the photos "Chipper" has posted the motors are up on 2 x 4 's.
Yes, they are hanging and I do believe with battery water and some fuel, they both could be running.
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I am getting ready to call him.
Really all that is needed is a battery and gas to try to start these, yeah?
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OK, I called "Chipper" and spoke to him about running the outboards.
He has no problem in Lewis trying to fire these up and see if they run.
He even asked what he needed to get to make this happen.
It really is a win / win for both of us
If they fire up he knows the condition and can sell them easier.
If I buy them, I know they are running and for the most part good motors, maybe :shock:
I will call Lewis on Monday and see what he needs, "Chipper" has batteries and said he will get the fuel,
I suggested premixed gas. (I think the carb work should be done before the oil tank is used?
Lewis should be able to get them running even with clogged idle jets, I believe??
I have no problem paying 5K if they are running, seems like a fair deal.
Thanks to all
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Does anyone know the cost of a powerhead for these motors?
Just curious
Thanks as always
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Off of ebay. Rebuilt 1 year warranty.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rebuilt-Johnson ... 1d&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rebuilt-Johnson-Evinrude-Powerhead-150-175-HP-2000-06-/270454693917?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item3ef85b201d&vxp=mtr)
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Has anyone used the guy on EBay before?
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Lewis, that ad is for a Ficht PH...don't know if that's the same top end that would swap out with a carbed PH. Remember, there are fuel rails, injectors, pumps...
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Well, I hope this all works out and, I don't need power-heads. I am just checking worst case.
If they fire up and run, there shouldn't be a major problem, (I hope).
I did get photos of the gauges etc and I see 560 some hours, not too bad.
I would guess off the top they need thermostat's, water pumps, carb rebuilds and lower end oil.
I am sure there is more to do but, all in all, they should clean up?
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Bryan, Thanks, I appreciate it. You any closer to those 175s? To be honest with you, the only issues I see are with the carbs, will need a cleaning and rebuild. New water pump impellers...and they should be good to go! Hope you get them!
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I will call Lewis tomorrow. I told Chipper that as they were, they are core motors and I would be in for a couple grand.
However, if he lets Lewis fire them up, and, they are solid, I would be in the 4500 to 5 K area.
I do think that with all he has 5 K is not a bad deal, hell, I would go through anything I purchased anyway.
One of my concerns, aside from the motors running, is the gauges, I don't know the condition
It looks like I get the wiring and oil tanks as well as the throttle linkage, may be better to buy new linkage.
Also, I need to mount them up and set up a dual steering.
Which I have never done.
I do think I am feeling comfortable to do most of this myself with a helper
Not real sure where to put all the gauges in the console, new panels I suppose.
BTW Bob, if this goes through, I will need a new plate for the horsepower.
Oh, one last thing, what length should the outboards be.
I guess I need to know before I go any further , yeah?
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Bryan,
IF it all goes through, you can use your existing steering cylinder and buy the HO6001 tie bar kit. You'd have to remove the cylinder to install the extension piece on the cylinder that the tie bar hooks up to. Easy peasy, I can walk you through it. Shift and throttle cables, chances are the lengths are wrong for your Osprey. I'd go with new Teleflex XTreme Type 479 cables (the ones with the swaged ends for OMC/BRP motors), sorry, can't remember the lengths, but probably 20s and 22s ought to do it.
Motors are 25" shafts, chances are that's what these 175s are. Not too many boats out there running twin 20" shaft motors. Now, as far as a capacity/max HP plate, contact this guy, Doug Smith. He used to make plates for us at PL while we were waiting for the official ones from NMMA. His look just like the NMMA ones but don't have the NMMA logo on them. Water cops will never know the difference. (417) 869-8827.
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Bryan,
IF it all goes through, you can use your existing steering cylinder and buy the HO6001 tie bar kit. You'd have to remove the cylinder to install the extension piece on the cylinder that the tie bar hooks up to. Easy peasy, I can walk you through it. Shift and throttle cables, chances are the lengths are wrong for your Osprey. I'd go with new Teleflex XTreme Type 479 cables (the ones with the swaged ends for OMC/BRP motors), sorry, can't remember the lengths, but probably 20s and 22s ought to do it.
Motors are 25" shafts, chances are that's what these 175s are. Not too many boats out there running twin 20" shaft motors. Now, as far as a capacity/max HP plate, contact this guy, Doug Smith. He used to make plates for us at PL while we were waiting for the official ones from NMMA. His look just like the NMMA ones but don't have the NMMA logo on them. Water cops will never know the difference. (417) 869-8827.
The models are as follows J175PXSNF and J175CXSTA. I do believe these are 25" motors.
I know there are other codes in the numbers, I don't know what the rest is.
I do think new cables are necessary as well, better anyway.
I am a little concerned about the Insurance carrier with the 50 over increase, should not be a stress or weight problem.
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Bryan,
IF it all goes through, you can use your existing steering cylinder and buy the HO6001 tie bar kit. You'd have to remove the cylinder to install the extension piece on the cylinder that the tie bar hooks up to. Easy peasy, I can walk you through it. Shift and throttle cables, chances are the lengths are wrong for your Osprey. I'd go with new Teleflex XTreme Type 479 cables (the ones with the swaged ends for OMC/BRP motors), sorry, can't remember the lengths, but probably 20s and 22s ought to do it.
Motors are 25" shafts, chances are that's what these 175s are. Not too many boats out there running twin 20" shaft motors. Now, as far as a capacity/max HP plate, contact this guy, Doug Smith. He used to make plates for us at PL while we were waiting for the official ones from NMMA. His look just like the NMMA ones but don't have the NMMA logo on them. Water cops will never know the difference. (417) 869-8827.
The models are as follows J175PXSNF and J175CXSTA. I do believe these are 25" motors.
I know there are other codes in the numbers, I don't know what the rest is.
I do think new cables are necessary as well, better anyway.
I am a little concerned about the Insurance carrier with the 50 over increase, should not be a stress or weight problem.
Don't tell him... :lol: :lol:
And thanks CB for moving these posts... :thumright: :thumright:
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Don't tell him...
Ditto. :thumright:
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You can always change the decals :wink:
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You can always change the decals :wink:
I did think about that as well.
I did notice a small section of the cowling being broken out, Might need to paint the unit anyway.
New decals might be in order :lol:
Yes, thanks for moving.
If there is a derail award, I believe I am at or near the top, yeah?
I can assure you, it is not in spite, just bad upbringing :salut:
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You can always change the decals :wink:
I did think about that as well.
I did notice a small section of the cowling being broken out, Might need to paint the unit anyway.
New decals might be in order :lol:
Yes, thanks for moving.
If there is a derail award, I believe I am at or near the top, yeah?
I can assure you, it is not in spite, just bad upbringing :salut:
Have you had any PM's regarding derails? :shock:
Then you are not near the top :mrgreen:
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No pm's for derails, yet.
It really is not entirely my fault, when someone say's something close to what I was thinking, I chime in.
It will usually get back on track in a post or two.
I don't know, my opinion, it covers more of the same questions, in gereral.
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I found the following at:
http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=12144
I checked the CFR, made it to the second paragraph, then woke up 15 minutes later :shock: :mrgreen: .
This is way easier to read.. If my math is right, new decals are in order.. :cry: :cry:
Hopefully this guide will help you calculate the maximum amount of H.P. your boat can be insured for.
- This is to only be used as a guide.
- You can round your final HP number to the closest multiple of 5. (31 HP would round to 30 HP. 33 HP would round to 35 HP)
Step One - Compute your Factor
A. Length of Boat x Transom Width (measure in feet: 14, 15.5,16, etc).
Step Two - Compare your factor to H.P. rating
A. 0-35 = 3 hp
B. 36-39 = 5 hp
C. 40-42 = 7.5 hp
D. 43-45 = 10 hp
E. 46-52 = 15 hp
Step Three - If your factor is over 52 (Choose only A or B)
A. With Remote Steering (steering wheel) and at least 20" transom height
Maximum HP = (Your factor x 2) - 90
Example: 19' 6" long , 7 feet wide = (19.5 x 7 x 2) - 90 = 183 (Round up in multiples of 5. This boat's max is 185 hp).
B. With Tiller Steering (hand or extension) or less than 20" transom height (Choose only 1 or 2)
1. Flat bottom, or hard chined boats (hull has hard angles)
Max HP = (Your factor x 0.5) - 15
2. Soft chine, rounded hulls
Max HP = (Your factor x 0.8 ) - 25.
Conclusion
I hope this has helped you all who are looking for max hp ratings. If your boat is insured, make sure to check with your insurance company for any restrictions.
This guide was found at NewBoatBuilders, which was ultimately used from "Title 33-Code of Federal Regulations-Subpart 183.53".
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Thanks Dave, I appreciate it
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My pleasure sir! Those CFR's are as dry as a covered bridge.. I needed a nap anyway! :mrgreen:
%#@&$ Gubmintlawercrat writers will put Tylenol PM out of business!
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Further thought... If you do go this route and you have an "engine guy" make sure he is cool with it too.. I was going to swap power heads on a late 80's Merc 70 that is on a Sport 15 Whaler and turn it into a 90.. The guys at the yard were all about helping ME do it but said they wouldn't touch it or the boat afterwards.. It was all about their liability and the horsepower rating...
Best of luck!
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Well, it is with regret that I say the motors didnt work out for me.
The CR is great, not a sound out of it.
The reg motor has a knock, there is a video that Lewis will post on THT.
It does sounds like it could be a wrist pin or a rod.
A few mechanics who listened to the video think rod or wrist pin :shock:
One person thinks the air box is knocking? :scratch:
I do not feel comfortable to buy the one for anything other than needing a rebuild.
I did offer 3000.00 he did refuse and said he does not think anything is wrong with them. :shock:
(Even though he has never ran them and only heard them run once).
Lewis was nice enough to get them running, Chipper is a great guy and I really hope it works out for him in the long run.
Chipper just does not think it is a bad problem, in hearing the sound. I do think it is a rod or a wrist pin.
It may be able to be repaired. I need to caution on the side of a powerhead.
After buying them, I would need to ship them to me,
buy a powerhead,
have it installed
or
possibly rebuild the existing powerhead
(If it is the rod or wrist pin and it is rebuildable).
do the carbs (12) (New kits)
A complete service on them
New thermostats
New props
New throttle cables, existing ones are too long
Lower end oil
There is a list of what should be done sitting that long.
I really just dont see any way to make it work other than the one motor being sold as a parts motor needing a rebuild?
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Lewis was nice enough to get them running
I think Lewis deserves a great big public thank you for his efforts, you think Bryan? That was a big deal not many people would have done for a relative stranger.
My $.02
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That damn Lewis.
He'd walk a mile for a camel.
And not the kind you smoke. :mrgreen:
Atta Boy Lew. :salut:
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Rick, you are 100% correct.
Lewis, I cant thank you enough for doing this for me.
I really appreciate it.
I really enjoyed speaking to you the last couple of weeks.
You are a true friend, I hope I can repay the favor somehow.
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OK, sorry for the delay, but I haven't been around my computer for a few days. For the more mechanically inclined among us please listen to the 2 videos that follow and post back what you think. I uploaded them from my phone and was unable to post the links before. The first one is the CR 175 and it seems to be fine except for a gasket leak around the fuel pump. The second video is the standard rotation one and if you listen closely you can hear a "tapping" noise that seems to emanate from somewhere in the powerhead. I did not try to locate it exactly because I did not want to damage anything internally if it is indeed something internal. Thanks for any and all opinions! I know Bryan does!
CR one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZryDU6bvQ2o (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZryDU6bvQ2o)
Standard rotation one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bu4TWo2uD_A (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bu4TWo2uD_A)
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OK, sorry for the delay, but I haven't been around my computer for a few days. For the more mechanically inclined among us please listen to the 2 videos that follow and post back what you think. I uploaded them from my phone and was unable to post the links before. The first one is the CR 175 and it seems to be fine except for a gasket leak around the fuel pump. The second video is the standard rotation one and if you listen closely you can hear a "tapping" noise that seems to emanate from somewhere in the powerhead. I did not try to locate it exactly because I did not want to damage anything internally if it is indeed something internal. Thanks for any and all opinions! I know Bryan does!
CR one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZryDU6bvQ2o (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZryDU6bvQ2o)
Standard rotation one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bu4TWo2uD_A (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bu4TWo2uD_A)
Lewis, you are the man!
Thanks so much, I really appreciate all you have done for me.
I spoke to "Chipper" and we may have an agreement??
He wants to think about it overnight, I will let you guys know once I do!
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Lew,
I really can't hear the engine noise as you describe; not to say it's not there, I just can't hear it with distinction. Now the quick way to check for wrist pin or rod bearing issues is to remove all the spark plugs and preferably the lower unit to eliminate water pump drag and roll the engine over by hand and feel for the clearance by getting the each piston to TDC and just roll it just an RCH (or the color of your choice) past TDC and take a Phillips screwdriver and push on the piston through the spark plug hole and try to feel the clunk when you re-load the bearing against the internal clearance. It's redneck but it works. Looking at the headgasket joints, these engines are really clean or the heads have been off, or they've never seen salt. If I was within reasonable traveling distance,I would go listen to them but its not practical for me plus I don't like making used engine acquisition decisions for someone 3000 miles away. So my decision would be to add $3000 to whatever the negotiated purchase price is and calculate if its still a good deal considering the price of new engines minus what Bryan could sell his 250 Yami for. The time to go inside the engine and look around before it blows up is now, before it damages other components. I would negotiate the engine noise if its real and allow for it.
My $1.385
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The color Red works for me.
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Let me try a better description of the sound the motor is making. I have been thinking about this for 3 days and to me as you get up close to the powerhead it sounds like a valve or lifter tapping on a four stroke. But of course it isn't. The noise is very noticeable even 10 feet away, I am just not sure of the reason or the exact location. The motors were run in the Gulf for there entire life but were flushed and then kept in a warehouse after each trip. They have none or very, very little corrosion showing on the outside. The gear lube in the lowers was old and not real dark with absolutely no evidence of water.
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I had to switch to better speakers to really hear it over the exhaust.... Amy heard it first and then I did... it's at a much faster speed than I thought it would be. But the noise is clearly there.
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Let me try a better description of the sound the motor is making. I have been thinking about this for 3 days and to me as you get up close to the powerhead it sounds like a valve or lifter tapping on a four stroke. But of course it isn't. The noise is very noticeable even 10 feet away, I am just not sure of the reason or the exact location. The motors were run in the Gulf for there entire life but were flushed and then kept in a warehouse after each trip. They have none or very, very little corrosion showing on the outside. The gear lube in the lowers was old and not real dark with absolutely no evidence of water.
Lewis, that is a perfect way to try and explain the sound. It is like a lifter tap, it is high up the motor. It almost sounds like the spark plug is hitting the piston.
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Lew,
I really can't hear the engine noise as you describe; not to say it's not there, I just can't hear it with distinction. Now the quick way to check for wrist pin or rod bearing issues is to remove all the spark plugs and preferably the lower unit to eliminate water pump drag and roll the engine over by hand and feel for the clearance by getting the each piston to TDC and just roll it just an RCH (or the color of your choice) past TDC and take a Phillips screwdriver and push on the piston through the spark plug hole and try to feel the clunk when you re-load the bearing against the internal clearance. It's redneck but it works. Looking at the headgasket joints, these engines are really clean or the heads have been off, or they've never seen salt. If I was within reasonable traveling distance,I would go listen to them but its not practical for me plus I don't like making used engine acquisition decisions for someone 3000 miles away. So my decision would be to add $3000 to whatever the negotiated purchase price is and calculate if its still a good deal considering the price of new engines minus what Bryan could sell his 250 Yami for. The time to go inside the engine and look around before it blows up is now, before it damages other components. I would negotiate the engine noise if its real and allow for it.
My $1.385
Farley, thanks so much for your opinion and the tricks.
I really appreciate it.
No one is on the line here for an opinion.
I will most likely buy with the intention of installing a power head before I ever use it.
I appreciate any and all opinions on this.
We defiantly hear a knock, we just don't know what it is.
I do believe it is in the upper portion of the powerhead, like a rod or a wrist pin.
If Chipper and I make a deal, I will be installing a powerhead, maybe rebuilding this one if it can be?
Again, I appreciate all the opinions, I understand what I would be buying in advanced.
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OK, out of the blue I called Chipper the other day.
We spoke for awhile and I asked about the outboards.
He still has them and was pending on what to do with them.
I upped my offer and it looks like we have a deal.
He wanted till Monday to think about it, However, he was very happy with my
offer and said it sounds good, he would get them ready to ship.
So, after some months going back and forth, looks like we have a deal.
I will most likely replace the powerhead on the one with the knock we hear.
My question is this.
Should I take off the powerhead and have it rebuilt?
It is running and has a knock, would I be better off
than buying a rebuilt powerhead?
Just thinking about my options and what I can or should do
Thanks
Bryan
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Hi Bryan,
I would absolutely rebuild what you have over finding another "rebuilt" powerhead. The damage at this point sounds minimal. Might be just a bearing and someone competent can disassemble it, assess the damage and make repairs. There is much risk trying to find an honest reman engine that's not built from multiple engine engine donors with used parts. I'm getting ready to do surgery on one of my 115's that's had a rattle for 3 years and I can't stand it anymore. The engine runs perfect but has a rattle that needs to be addressed. I've spent hours listening to it and I believe it is either a top bearing or#
1 rod bearing so I'm going to tear her down for exploratory surgery. The compression is perfect. So to completely re- bearing and re seal the engine with the special tools I need is about a $1K, and when it's done I have no worries that it was assembled correctly and should have no surprises.
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Hi Bryan,
I would absolutely rebuild what you have over finding another "rebuilt" powerhead. The damage at this point sounds minimal. Might be just a bearing and someone competent can disassemble it, assess the damage and make repairs. There is much risk trying to find an honest reman engine that's not built from multiple engine engine donors with used parts. I'm getting ready to do surgery on one of my 115's that's had a rattle for 3 years and I can't stand it anymore. The engine runs perfect but has a rattle that needs to be addressed. I've spent hours listening to it and I believe it is either a top bearing or#
1 rod bearing so I'm going to tear her down for exploratory surgery. The compression is perfect. So to completely re- bearing and re seal the engine with the special tools I need is about a $1K, and when it's done I have no worries that it was assembled correctly and should have no surprises.
I agree with you with keeping the same motor and not getting an assembled parts motor.
Is this something you would be interested in doing the rebuild of it?
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Well, good news :scratch:
Looks like we have a deal!
(good or bad, not sure)