Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Fuel tanks and anything about fuel systems => Topic started by: Curious on March 20, 2013, 10:55:22 AM
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Getting ready to install the new tank:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//652/SAM_0986.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6822&title=sam-0986&cat=652)
Dry fit:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//652/SAM_0985.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6821&title=sam-0985&cat=652)
The old and the new:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//652/SAM_0988.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6823&title=sam-0988&cat=652)
I'll have to trim the rear tabs down about 3/8":
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//652/SAM_0990.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6825&title=sam-0990&cat=652)
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Planning to stay true to the Pascoe method and use the mounting tabs on top for extra insurance. My plastic strips are PVC lattice from Lowes. They are 1/4" thick x 1 1/2" wide. What is the general consensus, three strips?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//652/SAM_0993.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6820&title=sam-0993&cat=652)
Or four?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//652/SAM_0992.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6819&title=sam-0992&cat=652)
Pascoe says "1/4 inch strips of plastic about 2 inches wide and spaced about every 12 inches." With three they are spaced about 8 3/4 inches apart and with four they are about 5 1/2 inches apart so I thnk I'm ok with three. The only issue is the base of the tank coffin isn't perfectly flat- it bows down a little in the middle. What do you guys think?
Thanks, Dan
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You need to keep the tank as dry as possible.
Let air get around the tank to help dry out the compartment on a warm day.
Make sure your deck plates seal well. Remove them (when docked in yard) when weather permits to aid in moisture removal.
Caulk the cover seams better than anything else.
Keeping water out is what allows a tank to last. Trapped water = corrosion.
I'd put 4 strips more for support than anything else. Again, seal the strip edges good so water can't get underneath between the tank and plastic.
Some members add a drain hole. Mine is completely sealed but has a removable drain plug. The WAC is a different setup, tank wise.
Good luck.
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My coffin has a small hole in the rear to allow water to escape.
Congrats on the tank, it looks great :thumright:
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Butter up the bottom of the strips with 5200 so there is no air pockets between them and the tank. Make sure you cut them shorter than the length of the tank so they don't protrude past the edges of the tank. This way any water that runs down the sides of the tank can't get on top of the strips and make it's way between them and the tank. My coffin had a drain hole in the aft end. No matter how well you seal it up water will get in there... so you want to make sure it can get out. Here is a pic of the strips getting glued onto the bottom of my tank.
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j196/wingtime/Aquasport/IMG_3946.jpg)
Looks like your doing a great job!
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I put a drain hole in the rear of the tank coffin that I can access from the deck hatch near my transom. I sized it so one of those rubber expanding plugs fits so I can leave it open or plug it. There is also an inspection port over the sending unit. On nice days I can open both and get some air flow. I'm even thinking of opening up an area in the front of the tank coffin to make the fill and vent hose removal/install easier so there would be even more air flow.
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EVERYONE is correct in stating that water will get into the tank compartment, regardless of the measures you take to try and ensure it doesn't. What I see a lot is water pooling on top of the tanks...most likely at the sender and fill pies. To be honest with you, whether you use a pry-out, twist-out, or any type of pie that has a removable center cap, they all seem to leak no matter what the manufacturer says. I would recommend the solid pies that screw down with NO removable cap, that way you can get a SERIOUS bedding job going and it WON'T leak. Like this Jim Black model...http://store.gotohmg.com/products/6%22- ... Cover.html (http://store.gotohmg.com/products/6%22-JB-Access-Cover.html)
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The majority of the water I have seen in the tank coffin is from condensation. I had the pie plates with the clear cover and I could see the water condesing on the bottom of it. ( actually my 170 still has it) So what I do is remove the cover when the boat is under cover to allow it to air out. Two different schools of thought. Whichever one you choose is up to you since both are good ideas.
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Hmmm,
Food for thought. Also, do I need one at the fill and vent hoses? There isn't one there now. Thanks for the replies, guys.
Also, what's the consensus, 3 or 4 strips? I'm leaning towards 4 for extra support and since the bottom of the coffin has a slight sag in the middle.
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looks good man. whats up with that old tank if u dont mind me asking? looks a lil rough but is it leaking? and are you planning on getting rid of it?
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Go with four, since they are not very tall.
Definitely put drain passageways in the coffin, fore and aft. If you can get her inside in the winter...open up the hatches and she'll dry out good :thumright:
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looks good man. whats up with that old tank if u dont mind me asking? looks a lil rough but is it leaking? and are you planning on getting rid of it?
I never ran the boat with the old tank in it, but it was encased in saturated, nasty wet foam. The area around the sending unit was so compromised that the screws stripped out. There are pretty significant pits from crevice corrosion all over the tank. Initially I thought about attacking it with JB Weld and fixing the threads for the sending unit but the more people I spoke to the more I realized that I might fix three or four of the obvious pits, get the tank reinstalled and then spring another leak in a different spot. I just decided to abandon the whole idea and go with the new tank. I haven't really thought about what I'm planning to do with the old tank other than use it for scrap sheet aluminum or sell it as scrap.
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Some progress.
I lightly scuffed up the surface of the tank bottom where my plastic strips will go with 100 grit sandpaper just to give the 5200 something to bite. Did the same with both sides of the plastic strips. Then I wiped everything down with acetone and moved the tank into my basement. It's still too cold in the garage but the basement is 50-52 degrees. The minimum temp on the 5200 label is 40 degrees:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//652/SAM_1024.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6904&title=sam-1024&cat=652)
Taped off the areas where the strips will go and dry fit the strips:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//652/SAM_1022.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6903&title=sam-1022&cat=652)
Next I applied a thick bead of the 5200 onto the tank between the taped off areas and used a plastic spreader to spread it out so most of the surface between the tape strips was covered with a layer of the stuff. This part was a pain in the a$$ because the 5200 is so thick and with the low temp it was really hard to spread. Then I tried to butter up one side of the plastic strips before placing them into the 5200 on the tank. Squished the strip down, rolled it out with a hard rubber roller, ran my finger around the edges to even out where it was sqeezing out. I tried to keep it as clean as possible but that stuff is difficult to work with. Ended up getting it all over myself. After a while I ended up with a pretty decent, uniform bead of it squishing out from under the plastic strips. I taped down the ends and put some weights on it while it sets up because there were high spots where the baffles are and low spots in the valleys between the baffles. I figured some weight would help makes sure the plastic strips don't end up lifting in the valleys.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//652/SAM_1029.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6905&title=sam-1029&cat=652)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//652/SAM_1030.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6906&title=sam-1030&cat=652)
Now I gotta just wait while the 5200 sets up. A few days anyways, which is ok because I've got plenty to do with trying to get the old hoses out and prepping the coffin for the new tank.
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I'm curious Dan.
What will you use to work out with now? :scratch:
Looks good but remember,
This is probably the last time any of us will ever see your tank bottom again. :mrgreen:
Good luck. :thumleft:
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Beautiful job right there Dan :thumright:
I know about that 5200...it goes EVERYWHERE. Probably contributed to one of my divorces :shock:
One of them "Clean Freaks".
:mrgreen:
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Bob, no fear of working out any time soon, I've got too much work to do on the boat! I'm kicking myself for not starting this back in November but I'm a true procrasinator.
Gran, apparently I had an itch on my chin at some point during the process because when I came upstairs to get cleaned up I had a big glob of it stuck to my face. I started out wearing rubber gloves but within about five minutes I had to get rid of them- no dexterity with the damn things on.
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What do you guys think I should do about this gap in the middle of the tank coffin floor?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//652/SAM_1032.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6919&title=sam-1032&cat=652)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//652/SAM_1031.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6918&title=sam-1031&cat=652)
It's probably about a 1/2 inch. Should I 5200 all four strips, install the tank and put a bunch of weights on top, especially at the baffles? Or should I just get the hoses hooked up as soon as I install it, go to the gas station and fill the tank up about 2/3 full?
I also plan on screwing and gluing a wood cleat to the sides of the tank coffin at the top edge to screw the tank mounting tabs into for added insurance so maybe I'm overthinking the gap in the middle of the tank floor. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Dan
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You could add another strip each to the inside two :scratch:
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If the bow is throughout the whole tank coffin I would do what Gran suggested. Otherwise make the added layer(s) short enough to fill the gap.
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The sag (bow) probably comes with age (ain't it the truth :( ).
Doubling up on the strips sounds like a great idea to me also. :thumleft:
Strap it down good and tight and let the four winds blow.
Good luck.
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well if you want to get rid of the old tank let me know i might come pick it up off your hands. is the old tank a 54 gallon as well? and where exactly are you located and let me know a price if u dont mind. thanks
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well if you want to get rid of the old tank let me know i might come pick it up off your hands. is the old tank a 54 gallon as well? and where exactly are you located and let me know a price if u dont mind. thanks
Unless you are independently wealthy it's probably not worth the effort. I'm from Nantucket, MA which, in addition to being well north of the Mason/Dixon line, is also an island 30 miles off Cape Cod. As they say up in Down East Maine, "Ya can't they'ah from hee'ah."
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You could add another strip each to the inside two :scratch:
That sounds like a pain in the a$$, but probably the right thing to do. What if I just apply the 5200 to the bottoms of the four strips (see previous pics), drop it in and weight it down really well on the center of the tank as it cures? Then secure the top mounting tabs.
Or fill it with fuel as soon as I get it installed then the weight of the fuel would force the bottom center of the tank down into the gap?
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Some more progress today. I made cleats out of pressure treated 5/4 x 6, gooped up the back sides with 5200 and lagged them into the sides of the tank coffin with stainless steel lag screws. Just snug enough to get the 5220 to squeeze and spread, otherwise I would have stripped out the screws. I want the 5200 to do the gluing and the screws are there just to keep everything snug while the 5200 cures. The idea is to have something solid to screw my tank mounting tabs into and provide a surface to mount some cross members to support to coffin lid.
This is just a dry fit to make sure everything fits ok. I took it all apart later, added the 5200 and snugged it up:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//652/SAM_1044.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6954&title=sam-1044&cat=652)
Next I tackled running the new fill and vent hoses. I taped the old to the new and got it part way before the tape gave way. I had to cut a slightly larger hole in the tank coffin where the hoses come through, reach in and grab the hose and pull it the rest of the way. Took a little wrangling but it wasn't bad. By the way, no foam! What a blessing. I had a chance to get some pics of the under deck cavity between the front of the tank coffin and the cabin. A little dusty, otherwise it looks like the day it left the factory! I really don't think this boat has many hours on it at all:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//652/SAM_1046.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6956&title=sam-1046&cat=652)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//652/SAM_1050.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6960&title=sam-1050&cat=652)
This is the stringer cutout where the fill and vent hoses come through. Luckily I taped the grounding wire to the new fill hose so I was able to pull on that to get it a little closer. You can see it in the background with the read stripe on it:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//652/SAM_1048.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6958&title=sam-1048&cat=652)
The vent hose went a lot easier. Just taped it to the old vent hose and snaked it through. Anyways, I think I'm pretty much ready to mount the tank and hook up the hoses. More pics of that later.
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Lookin' good Dan.
Kinda neat looking at something built 35 years ago and still in great shape. :thumright:
Even Aqua got one right every once and a while. :salut:
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It was cool to be able to see in there. Up here in the Nantucket, some of these boats go in the water in June on a mooring and get hauled out in September. Some of the wealthier folks only use their boat 2 or 3 times a season. The guy I bought it from was an older gentleman from NJ with a summer house here on Nantucket so I'm assuming that it's in such good shape because it has very low hours and spent most of it's life shrink wrapped in a boatyard. There are no soft spots on the deck, no delamination along the stringers that I can see. The only real problems that I've found so far have been the transom and the gas tank. And I probably could have gotten a couple more years out of each.
I planning on putting some thought into installing a deck hatch and accessing that area because it is wasted space. On Bondobill's boat there was a factory storage area in there accessible from the rear cabin bulkhead for a porta pottie. He's got his batteries in there now. Mine doesn't have that but the space is there. I just have to figure out how to frame in a box somehow.
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Cant tell for sure from the pics, but you want an air gap between that tank and the PT. Make sure you isolate the tabs from the PT when you fasten them too. Corrosion waiting to happen.
Stop sign pole wouldnt have been my first choice for supporting the lid haha, but if its nowhere near the tank then you should be good..
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Just getting to this thread. Nice work so far.
Re: the bow in the bottom of the tank box, I do NOT think you should add extra strips. :scratch: MUCH more likely to isolate pressure points near the center that way rather than evenly distributing the load across the bottom of the box.
IMO - leave as is and let the weight of the tank and some fuel equilibriate the install.
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Cant tell for sure from the pics, but you want an air gap between that tank and the PT. Make sure you isolate the tabs from the PT when you fasten them too. Corrosion waiting to happen.
Stop sign pole wouldnt have been my first choice for supporting the lid haha, but if its nowhere near the tank then you should be good..
Thanks, dwf, I had the same thoughts on both. There will definately be a good gap between the tank and the pt, I made sure. I also have a plan on isolating the tank mounting tabs from the pt and from the stainless lag screws I'm planning to use. I haven't found any aluminum lag screws so I think I'm stuck with stainless.
The galvie lid supports are recessed into the top of the pt but are several inches above the top of the tank so they're no where near being able to touch the tank. I was scratching my head trying to think of what to use when a buddy of mine was headed to the dump with a couple of those bent and twisted in the back of his truck. I was able to cut a couple of straight sections and they are some rigid!
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Just getting to this thread. Nice work so far.
Re: the bow in the bottom of the tank box, I do NOT think you should add extra strips. :scratch: MUCH more likely to isolate pressure points near the center that way rather than evenly distributing the load across the bottom of the box.
IMO - leave as is and let the weight of the tank and some fuel equilibriate the install.
Thanks Ryan. I'm planning on doing just that. Install with 5200 on the bottom of all four strips, get the fill and vent hoses hooked up and get at least 20 gallons or so in the tank. The 5200 takes 7 days to cure so with 180 to 200 pounds worth of fuel sitting in the tank I think it will encourage the middle strips to find the coffin floor in the middle. Then once that stuff cures, I'm pretty sure it will hold a bond to the coffin floor. I pity the poor SOB who has to remove this damn tank in 30 years.
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I'd bet you find that in half that time removal will not be as hard as one thinks.
Like everything else, 5200 has a usable lifetime.
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:thumright:
Worst case scenario you distribute the weight of the whole tank throughout the perimeter of the box near the corners where the glass is strongest even if the bonding and support in the center doesn't work. You can use some extra 5200 in the center to help bridge some of the gap.
Just consider this tank replacement a "permanent" repair. :lol:
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I just started my tank replacement yesterday. I have a 1978 19-6 ff. Not too bad. Should have started in November also. Got most of the foam out and I am going finish up today. I was pleased that the wet smelly foam came out so easily. I've been a carpenter for 30 years and have the tools and the ability, but no experience. Not to worry because now I have all you guys. Thank goodness for Classic Aquasport.com. Photos and progress to follow. Tom.
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I had just pulled my tank on a 87CCP and the bottom of the tank was not flat but broke in to three segments. It followed the sagging compartment just fine. :cheers:
I need to raise it off the compartment floor like you have though to get some air flow.
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I just started my tank replacement yesterday. Photos and progress to follow. Tom.
Very good Tom.
Please start a new thread in this forum on your replacement. Photos are always appreciated and as always,
Good luck. :thumleft:
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Tank is out and the foam is in a dumpster. Now to get a tank. Already made some calls. Have a few ideas about securing it down. I might use the old aluminum strap system(make new ones) in addition to some other means. As far as the bottom, what about a rubber mat with holes, like the type they use in resturants and behind bars. I wonder if the moisture will drain??? It's gotta be better than that foam and the tank lasted 35 years with out a drain hole. Also, I will have to figure out how to start a new thread.
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Tom....see that "new topic" button on the top or bottom left of the screen? Give it a shot.
:wink:
I'd nix the barmat thing. Sure, "water" would drain fine, but "moisture" would be caught in the many contact points where the tank sits on the mat. Aluminum straps can be reused for sure. Just make yourself some starboard chocks or spacers for the corners and 5200 those to the tank before tightening the straps. Prevents any moisture from being trapped between the strap and the tank. Taking into account known ways to reduce electrolysis and wear, many of us here will recommend you otherwise follow Curious' approach which is based on the "Pascoe" method. Replaced my father's 170 tank the same way, though I used a single flap of rubber from a bike tire to prevent wear between the straps and tank and forgot to 5200 to tank...starting to regret that now that I realize the small rubber pieces will definitely hold some moisture. That's the entire reason that I haven't posted a thread for his tank replacement. :oops:
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Pascoe method:
www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm (http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm)
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gman,
Mine was sitting in smelly, saturated foam. The old tank has really bad pitting in several spots. I'm not sure if it was leaking yet but it was only a matter of time.
I strongly recommend Luther's Welding in Bristol, RI, www.lutherswelding.com (http://www.lutherswelding.com). They did my tank and they had the best price in the area. There was another place that I had called on Long Island, but I can't remember the name.
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broke in to three segments
What do you mean broke in to three segments?
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broke in to three segments
What do you mean broke in to three segments?
I will take a picture for you tomorrow and post.
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Tom....see that "new topic" button on the top or bottom left of the screen? Give it a shot.
:wink:
I'd nix the barmat thing. Sure, "water" would drain fine, but "moisture" would be caught in the many contact points where the tank sits on the mat. Aluminum straps can be reused for sure. Just make yourself some starboard chocks or spacers for the corners and 5200 those to the tank before tightening the straps. Prevents any moisture from being trapped between the strap and the tank. Taking into account known ways to reduce electrolysis and wear, many of us here will recommend you otherwise follow Curious' approach which is based on the "Pascoe" method. Replaced my father's 170 tank the same way, though I used a single flap of rubber from a bike tire to prevent wear between the straps and tank and forgot to 5200 to tank...starting to regret that now that I realize the small rubber pieces will definitely hold some moisture. That's the entire reason that I haven't posted a thread for his tank replacement. :oops:
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About the mat, I thought so. I will probably use some rainbow , which is a soft but dense rubber gasket material the plumbers use between the chocks and the strap. Also, is Azak ok to use instead of star board? Azak being that outdoor facia/trim material. Should work as well. As for my tank leaking, it had a few holes on the top and a lot of pitting around all the fittings. What was amazing was that under the foam the tank looked great. Doesn't matter, new engine, 35 year old tank=new tank. I'll give the guy in RI a call. gman
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I looked at Azek at Home Depot. It is PVC which should work no problem. The only reason I didn't use it is because my tank coffin is deep in front but shallow in the rear. I finally figured out that this is the result of the self draining deck being angled slightly towards the stern. At any rate, there is very little room in the rear of the tank coffin, especially since I had Luther's add 4 mounting tabs to the sides of the tank and Azek doesn't go any thinner than 3/4. So I went with 1/4 inch lattice material I picked up at Lowes for 5 bucks per 8' length. Others on here have used starboard but there are ingredients in starboard that interfere with the adhesion of the 5200. There may be ways to make it work but I didn't want to chance it plus you can't beat 5 bucks apiece at Lowes. The other alternative was FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) strips from McMaster/Mann at over $100. Probably would have been the best material to use, but again I defaulted to what my wallet would allow. My strips/5200 have cured and they are not going ANYWHERE. So if you have the space I would try Azek and just rough up the tank surface and the Azek surface really well. I used 80 or 100 grit I think. Weighted it down, let it sit for the 7 day cure time of the 5200 and its SOLID!
By the way, prior to this project (and my transom project last year) I had no idea how to do any of this but I just did a ton of research on here and cross checked it a little on other sites and all of a sudden I'm an expert....(just kidding). And I didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.
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gman,
Here's the other one I mentioned:
http://www.alloymetalworks.com/ (http://www.alloymetalworks.com/)
They are in Farmingdale on LI. I never got in touch with them due to distance but I did leave a message and they returned my call the next day. I went with Luther's in Bristol, RI because I could drive there and pick it up to save on shipping. I can tell you that Luther's was the best price I could find in the Cape Cod/South Coast of Massachusetts area and he and his crew are true, old school professionals. The real deal. They had the plans for my exact tank because they had already built one and they were very receptive to allowing me to be part of the planning process when I decided to change a couple of things such as fitting placement. They would make the change, then email me the drawings for my approval. I did initially send them photos of the old tank with tape measure in place to help them with positioning but come to find out they already had a drawing for the tank.
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broke in to three segments
What do you mean broke in to three segments?
It's kind of hard to see the break lines in the bottom but you can see the curvature of the bottom of the tank. It fits perfect in the bottom of the tank coffin.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//2/4-7-13_004.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6988&title=1987-aquasport-ccp222&cat=2)
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Gotcha. So when you say "break" do you actually mean "bend" so it conformed to the tank coffin or actually cracked?
That looks like a biggun, how many gallons?
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Looks like a standard 222 CCP tank. If so, 85 gal.
http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... -8&cat=574 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2863&title=as-all-models-86-8&cat=574)
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Gotcha. So when you say "break" do you actually mean "bend" so it conformed to the tank coffin or actually cracked?
That looks like a biggun, how many gallons?
Sheet metal guys refer to bending metal to putting a break in it.
I think it is a 80-85 gal tank. I am going to choke the first time I fill it up.
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Got it. Maybe I'll just 5200 the outer plastic strips and screw the top mounting tabs into my new wooden cleat and be done with it. If the middle strips sag under the weight of the gas then so be it. At least the plastic strips will hit the bottom of the coffin and provide chafe protection.
The only other option is to goop up the middle strips really good and get the tank filled right away after I squish it down in place. The weight of the gas should force the center of the tank down enough for the 5200 to grab the coffin bottom. I think after 7 days of curinglike that the coffin bottom would then flex up and down a little with the tank.
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You know....there are other adhesives then just 5200. 5200 is for under the water line permanent mounting like through-hulls.
4200 would work. Shoot in your case RTV Silicone would work.
not only is 5200 overboard in most cases, it's more expensive too!
By the way looks good.
I'm building a new tank this month. 85 gallons for the 222FFV. FUN!!!!
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Good job Dan
Just read through your thread......
I replaced my tank about 15 years ago :shock:
Now you got me wondering if it might be time to do it again.
I've had my boat way too long :lol:
Anyways nice job :thumleft:
Bill
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Thanks Bill!
I was thinking about you when I took a peek inside the void between my tank coffin and the cabin bulkhead. I remembered your setup with the batteries in there. I think you had a factory storage area in there for a porta pottie if I recall. The one down side to my boat is the lack of storage space/compartments so I was trying to think of how I could use that space like you did.
Anyways, work got busy but I've got some time this weekend to complete my tank install and start on my trim tabs so stay tuned!
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Dan, I dropped my tank off to Alloy metal works yesterday. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Funny, I spoke with a friend who did his tank last year and guess who's name he gave me! Also, after speaking to yet another friend/fishing buddy yesterday afternoon, that's who he used. Phil from Alloy was super. He already had a drawing of my tank even though I brought him the tank and was very helpful with a few ideas about the install. Glad I stayed local. When I showed everybody the photos of my nice clean "coffin" they were all very jealous. They all told me nightmare stories of cutting tanks. Cutting out their decks and having to fiberglass them back in. Oh well. Hopefully it will be here in two weeks or so. Thanks again, Tommy G. p.s. Thanks to everyone else for your help and input. Besides I ain't done yet!
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Dan, I dropped my tank off to Alloy metal works yesterday. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Funny, I spoke with a friend who did his tank last year and guess who's name he gave me! Also, after speaking to yet another friend/fishing buddy yesterday afternoon, that's who he used. Phil from Alloy was super. He already had a drawing of my tank even though I brought him the tank and was very helpful with a few ideas about the install. Glad I stayed local. When I showed everybody the photos of my nice clean "coffin" they were all very jealous. They all told me nightmare stories of cutting tanks. Cutting out their decks and having to fiberglass them back in. Oh well. Hopefully it will be here in two weeks or so. Thanks again, Tommy G. p.s. Thanks to everyone else for your help and input. Besides I ain't done yet!
Don't forget as a Classic Aquasport member you receive a discount at Alloy Metal Works. Check the post on the Vendors Forum :thumright:
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No problem gman. I thought you might prefer to stay local. How far are they from you? One of these days I'm going to take a week or so and explore LI. From the photos I've seen there are a lot of similarities to Nantucket. Both in the natural beauty and in the people (we get the Hampton billionares here too). What advice did they give you regarding the install? I've made a little progress this weekend, pics to follow.