Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Generic Aquasport Rebuilding Topics => Topic started by: CTsalt12 on January 11, 2013, 09:47:30 AM
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I'm putting a new hatch in the deck so the fuel sender is more accessible for maintenence. I also plan to put two new speakers in the console because they are currently located about a foot from the engine. Please advise as to what tool I should use for cutting through fiberglass clean. I have friends who are in construction and boat work so it's just a matter of knowing what tool to ask for.
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Jigsaw with a fine tooth blade works fine, although my personal favorite is the HF air body saw. I can cut very precisely with it.
I'm not a fan of the multi-tools out there. In the industry, regardless of what boat plant you go to, you'll find the air body saws. Multi-tools just aren't found...
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A roto-zip with a wood cutting bit works pretty good, I use a little alcohol (not drinking) :roll: as I go to keep the bit cool.
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Perfect, what should I be using as a guide to keep the diameter precise?
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you could cut out a circular guide from plywood. you just have to measure the distance between the roto zip bit and the outside edge of the base and add that to the radius of the size hole you want.
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Here's my little jewel right here, beat up and abused, bought it back in '01 when I was still with Stamas, a mere $20 on sale at HF (now they go for like $13), only thing I've ever done to it is changed blades! Don't even add and tool oil! Figure when it dies (if ever), I'll get a new one!
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/Sunset001.jpg)
Anyway, just did a Lowrance HDS-7 install the other day on the Pathfinder, used the old saw to cut the head unit hole in the dash. Simply traced around the template supplied, then cut on the line. This saw allows you that precision. Hole was cut in about 2 minutes (just glass, gel, and coremat, no serious coring), and the head unit dropped in perfectly, snug as a bug in a rug...
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh301/seabob4/2200%20Pathfinder%20Tim/HDS-7Install004.jpg)
Yes, I do this all the time, but don't make a mountain out out of a molehill!! For large circular holes (too big for a hole saw), I simply find the center, then with a compass scribe the circle. Dimple the center with a small drill bit to keep the compass point from walking. Then cut on the line. No guides, no fancy chit. Boom, you're done!! Install pie plate (bedded well with silicone), on to the next project... :thumright: :thumright:
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Perfect, what should I be using as a guide to keep the diameter precise?
if you take your time with the roto zip it will track pretty easily along the line you draw, take the plate out of the hatch, put it on the deck and pencil the inside of the hole, then make your cut just outside the line, should give you a good fit. Also, take a few bowls from your kitchen and see if any of them have the exact OD of the lip of the hatch, then use that as a pattern? there is a little wiggle room on these pie plates. just make sure you seal the coring up real good before putting the hatch in.
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If you want to use a jig saw I've been advised here and on a few other forums, that this is THE blade to use. http://www.bargainboatparts.com/p-104379-glas-fabtrade-jigsaw-blade.aspx
I ordered some the other day and they will be waiting for me when I get back from the UK. Blade will last a long time I'm told. I found a 5 pack for $21 at JamestownDistributors.com. If you want to search for them use "Sterling" and the part # 82032 or 87072 depending on the shank you need. Not too easy to find.
Right now, for pure fiberglass, I'm using a diamond coated blade for ceramic. It works but they are $10 each. FG is tough stuff and will make a blade toothless in no time. These blades cut on both strokes so it keeps the heat down. Adding wood or another core shouldn't phase this blade either. Some of the Master Rebuilders may pipe in on this.
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Thanks dudes.
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I, for one, will stick to my HF air body saw. And keep in mind, I cut a LOT of glass, quite a bit of it with some pretty serious coring in it.
I used to have to cut through (2) 1 1/2" thick b/heads, 10" dia. holes for A/C duct work on the Stamas 32 Express, under the dinette. That little bugger you see pictured above? Cut every one until I left, 59 boats to be exact. Not to mention hundreds of other cuts at Stamas...
So here it is almost 7 years later (Feb.), and the little $20 HF air body saw is still going strong. Used it yesterday to cut out most of the interior of a Yamaha rigging grommet to make rigging a Yam V-MAx a piece of cake. Blades are like a buck a piece.
For the price of Rick's blades, you can have the whole shebang, with the ability to precision cut. Sorry Rick, but why spend all that money? Put it to work buying materials!!!
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Sounds like a good tool, Bob. Will it run on a little pancake compressor, or would I need something bigger?
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I run it off my 2 gallon, 1 HP Campbell-Hausfield compressor I bought at a yard sale 10 years ago for $15...
That answer your question, Craig?? :thumright: :thumright:
And, yes, if I'm cutting through thicker stuff, I'll have to pause to let the pressure build back up. Gives time for a drag off the natty light can... :wink: :wink:
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Yup! That answers my question! Thanks Bob!
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Doesn't take high priced or the "latest" chit to get the job done, and get it done right. KISS...
Leaves more $$ the the more important things...
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I don't think it's the "tool" so much that makes the difference, it's the blades. I was going through a blade on about every other cut. I use a Bosch jig saw and it'll make butter out of about anything you try to cut through. I tried a lot of the different blades in the arsenal I have from smooth metal to fine wood and after a couple minutes they'd be toothless in the stroke area.
So I guess it depends on what "tool" you already have. If you have a decent jig saw and only a couple cuts I would go for the diamond blade at HD for $10. If you have a bunch of cuts and a decent jig saw you might consider the blades I mentioned. If you don't have a tool then try SB's choice but you still have to buy blades :idea:
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I get the blades for my saw at HF also, I think around $6 for a pack of 5. They are a VERY fine tooth design, when cutting through just glass, they last a LONG time, obviously, throw in some decent thickness wood coring...not so long.
But, considering the amount of holes I put in boat ( :shock: ), and considering the last pack of blades I picked up maybe 4 months ago, I'd say I'm doing pretty good. And I still have 2 unused ones left...
BTW, with patience, those blades will even cut through a 1/2" SS bolt. Ask me how I know... :x :x
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Just an update on pricing. Stopped in HF this morn (11" tie-wraps, $2.99 for the 100 pack!!), decided to pick up a package of my air saw blades. They've gone up to $8 for a pack of 5. They have them in 24 TPI and 32 TPI, I use the 32...