Mike B's 19-1 Refinish

[Fish Head]

I was able to get 2 layers of 1708 to wrap around the transom cap.I went about a foot down on either side with 1708. I did sand before hand a radius about 3/8 on the 90’s to help the 1708 wrap around. Also kept at it with the roller for a long awhile until the epoxy started to setup to achieve no air pockets. I also want to try to avoid the cap cracking again in the future. The desperation/crack went the whole span of the transom and was hidden by an aluminum plate the previous owner installed for strength. Maybe you can zoom in on my pic. Finished out pretty nice.

[RickK]

Nice job 

[wingnut]

Agree with Fish Head, you'd be surprised how tight 1708 will turn if it's pulled right. If you have your layers extending down far enough that they adhere, you can put a little tension in it and wrap it over your edges. It won't turn a sharp corner, but it will lay down over a 1/4" to 3/8" rounded radius in my experience.

I didn't have a plywood core but I still put 1708 over the top edges to wrap over my poured core and tie it into the fiberglass. I rounded the top transom edges (I'd guess 1/4" radius) and it laid down flat. Just make sure you monitor it for the first hour or so, and roll out any bubbles that start to appear! You're going to have to sand and fare either way, but you'll be able to put glass where it counts. Here's mine:


Another option is to use 17oz biaxial (45 degree, but no mat attached). Much more flexible and basically same strength. I have a big roll and can carve off a few yards if you ever make it down this way!

[umecheme]

Ok.  That makes me feel better.  I'll give it a whirl.  The piece I was working on I had cut a little too big and it was trying to turn a 90.  My plan was to grind the extra off later, but the air pocket would have had to have been ground out after it hardened.  We will hopefully find out tonight!

[umecheme]

So... The transom is basically in.  Glassed in from the inside, and I need to put another layer of glass over the cap.  So I think I should be all set after some sanding/fairing etc.  Now on to the next issue.   I'm assuming that I'm best off by cutting the tops off the outter stringers and building a ledge for the stringer to sit on along the side of the hull then re-glassing?  I thought about just glassing the top and tabbing to the sides, but I'm afraid that will offer little to no support.  Am  I heading in the right direction in my thinking?  I ground off most of the bonding putty, and the stringer essentially falls a half inch short of the side of the hull.

[wingnut]

If it was me, I would clean and sand the tops of the stringers really well, and use the top of stringer as a form to make a new stringer top. You could even extend the glass down the inner face of stringer (new glass will go down the hull, across the stringer top, and down the inner face of stringer again). This will basically make you a new stringer top, integral with hull and stringer face, without removing the old one first. Which will save you a couple weeks of forming up structural stuff unnecessarily, and get you on the water this fall!

[umecheme]

I'm not following.  How would I wet out glass to the hull below the stringer, without cutting the top of the stringer off?

[RickK]

You can't. Usually you cut the top off the stringers (I recommend 2 ft then leave a 3" strap across, then 2 ft,,,etc - the strap keeps the stringer integrity/shape) to get at the wet foam to remove it.
Your 191 had a liner on the inner hullsides that you removed and hopefully saved - this liner can hide how you re-attach the stringer to the side of the hull when you re-attach the liner.
Maybe you have other ideas - let me know so we can discuss.

[wingnut]

 Possibly I don’t understand what’s going on - is there any reason the vertical glass along the hull has to go below the stringer? Can it not go up from where the top of the stringer hits the hull? From a structural standpoint this has some benefits but I may not be realizing all the issues!

[umecheme]

My plan is to ultimately go up with the glass, but figured I'd support it from the bottom as well as the top.  I guess to your point, the original had no support from the bottom obviously. Ill just have to sand the top real well to make sure I get a good bond.  I'll cut the low spots where they connect with the hull and support them to the proper height so I don't 100 lbs of bonding putty like the original install.  Rick, I do still have the liner, but not sure I'm going to reinstall.  I think I'll just reinforce the hull from the inside with 1708.  I'm not looking to make it look perfect from the inside. It's not all in one piece, and I'm not sure I can put it back together to make it look like it's one piece again. I'll also glass in the gunwhale supports to help with the structural support I'm losing from not having the liner.  I'm going to make one on either side rugged enough to help support a swivel rodholder... the last couple years the bluefin have been in super close.  Last year we were fishing an 1/8 mile offshore.  Not gonna be a tuna boat, but if the footballs are in close, its nice to have an option with a recreational permit.

Oh, and all these plans are dependent on whether or not you all give me better options :-)

[RickK]

I like that you want to re-enforce the hull sides with 1708.  The hull sides are rough from the cloth used at the factory that they hid with the liner. So you have a lot of grinding ahead of you to prep for the 1708. Reason I mentioned using the liners is that even with the 1708 you'll have a lot of fairing depending on how you're going to finish the inside, so re-using the liners can save you a ton of work.
Are you thinking of re-enforcing all the stringers from the inside?

[umecheme]

So.... I'm planning out my deck.  I'm going to set up so that all of my plywood seams line up with the centers of the stringer tops, because they'll be the weakest.  Whats the best option for joining two pieces of marine ply together.  Should I glass them completely and then put them in and tab them together installed?  Should I try to make it as much one piece as possible and then try to get it in the boat?  What's most successful at the joints?

[mshugg]

You can glass over your whole deck top and bottom and it will be more than strong enough.  That’s what I did with my Airex foam deck.  It turned out stiff and strong, and that was with the seams going across the beam.

Another option, if you don’t want to glue your deck into the boat in 1 piece, is to glass the bottom of your panels, and use a glassed plywood cleat under any unsupported seam.  Glue down the individual panels then glass over the whole deck top.  Where you’re seams lap on a stringer, you won’t need a cleat.

I like the simplicity of a one piece deck, but either method works.  Your plan to have

[umecheme]

Ok, So the wife is out of town again, so its been a mad scramble to get work done on the boat (and all the other stuff around here that needs to get done).  Stringers are all back in and complete.  I've got them about 2/3 of the way filled with 2 part foam. Just need to build one bulkhead.  That is some neat stuff by the way.  Why didn't Santa ever put any of that in my stocking?  Today is Deck Day.  I may not get there today, but what should I do for glass on the deck?  1 layer on the underside 2 on the topside? 

Also, I'm starting to understand why the pics and posts disappear on here.  As I look at the other builds and I see the professional quality results... I'm probably not gonna get there.  However,  first time working with glass, so I'm laying it out there, and owning it!  My grandfather was a jointer/boatbuilder and passed on before he was able to instill any of his knowledge in me.  My father was a fisherman and his motto was "Its not how bad you F*$& it up, its how good you cover it up."  I'm definitely in the latter portion of that.   Oh, my apologies on the condition of the garage... I'm still not taking a whole lot of time to stop and pick up.

Its cooler today.  Maybe I'll sand.  Not sure how you guys in the south are able to get any work done in a Tyvek suit.  20 mins and I'm soaked.

[RickK]

Ok, So the wife is out of town again, so its been a mad scramble to get work done on the boat (and all the other stuff around here that needs to get done).  Stringers are all back in and complete.  I've got them about 2/3 of the way filled with 2 part foam. Just need to build one bulkhead.  That is some neat stuff by the way.  Why didn't Santa ever put any of that in my stocking?  Today is Deck Day.  I may not get there today, but what should I do for glass on the deck?  1 layer on the underside 2 on the topside? 

Also, I'm starting to understand why the pics and posts disappear on here.  As I look at the other builds and I see the professional quality results... I'm probably not gonna get there.  However,  first time working with glass, so I'm laying it out there, and owning it!  My grandfather was a jointer/boatbuilder and passed on before he was able to instill any of his knowledge in me.  My father was a fisherman and his motto was "Its not how bad you F*$& it up, its how good you cover it up."  I'm definitely in the latter portion of that.   Oh, my apologies on the condition of the garage... I'm still not taking a whole lot of time to stop and pick up.

Its cooler today.  Maybe I'll sand.  Not sure how you guys in the south are able to get any work done in a Tyvek suit.  20 mins and I'm soaked.

I am thinking you mean people don't finish their builds and stop posting? Not that their posts were removed?
You work looks fine - usually people are their own worst critics. Rarely do we get a person posting that is a pro working with fiberglass.  We do have some guys that are pros but the rebuilding of 99% of the boats here are by people that have basic carpentry skills and have not worked with glass. Me included.
So don't be too hard on yourself, your work looks great. And we're here to help you out, keep on trucking on this.
So you've decided on using wood for the decking. Running the wood from front to aft and laying the joints so they land on the stringers is fine. You will end up with some seams going across the boat because the wood is not long enough. Make sure you add a bulkhead to support those seams.  We have seen all kinds of rebuilds using all kinds of materials, and all have come out to the expectation of the person rebuilding.
I see a piece of PVC going from the transom up into the fuel tank area - what are you thinking there?