Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => Flatback 22-2 Rebuilds => Topic started by: HawgLeg on June 21, 2015, 04:37:00 PM
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I have my newly acquired hull! Getting ready to start my rebuild. I have never done a boat rebuild before so I am going to need all the help I can get. I am ready to become a the forum's student. Pour y'all's wisdom on me.
My ultimate goal: a Tampa style rebuild.
Short term goal: refurbish/ replace stringers, I want a closed transom, integrate a large bait well, re power the boat with a Yamaha 175-200hp with porta bracket stle jack plate.
I am an aircraft mechanic ready for this new challenge. I should have all the tools and working space necessary to do just about anything.
I can't wait to get started!
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Hi Edward,
Some friendly suggestions about posting pics. :thumright:
The best way to post pics is not attach them but to use the free photo gallery you have here on the site, Follow this short tutorial - it's very easy to do. http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0 Once you get the pics uploaded into your member gallery let me know and I'll replace the pics in your first post.
When we take a pic with our phone we usually hold the phone vertically and when we look at pics on our phone it is smart enough to rotate them the correct way. Unfortunately that's not the way the pics are actually taken - see above, they're rotated CCW. To prevent this in the future (we'll rotate them in the gallery) hold your phone like you would a camera - horizontally, I think with the top to the left and they'll be in the correct orientation.
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Did the previous owner pop the liner? That's cool.
Over the past 10 years of this site I've observed that for a FB, the typical goals of a member that rebuilds these old boats is 1) raise the floor so they'll self bail (usually 3+"), 2) enclose the transom because that's what they like 3) put a jackplate or porta-lift (mostly PL) on it, 4) add a tower 5) add livewell and 6) repower.
When you raise the floor, the liner will have to be modified because it won't fit anymore at the bottom. You'll have to trim3+" off it and that will cut out the floor.
Most members will go 150-175hp and realize a 150 is probably all they need because the FBs get squirrelly and dangerous with too much power. They nose steer and also slide in turns.
Putting a PL on it will change how the boat sits so you'll have to plan to move weight into the console to counteract it. Maybe even move the console a little forward.
The tower will require some reinforcement to mount it.
We have quite a few members with FBs they've rebuilt or are in process so the'll be around soon to share their experiences with you.
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rick, that is paul's old boat, (flatbackpaul)
150-175 hp is about perfect on these boats, anything over that is a waste. i can easily say that as i have a 225 on my boat and she's thirsty, and i almost never reach WOT before the boat gets too squirrely 44 mph seems to be the max for these hulls before they get weird. that can easily be achieved with a 150-175... i have seen just over 47 mph before i pulled back on the throttle and it was a scary ride.
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Yep, Paul and I had a great conversation last night about the FB and I think he's really excited about my plans to rebuild her. I would love for it to be self bailing but I also read that with added weight in the back you take on water. Is self bailing a must? I'm driving up to pick the boat up tomorrow after work and I will have some really good detailed photos once I get her home. What is my first step? Do I go ahead and tackle the stringers?
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I raised my deck a total of 5 inches and has no problem draining when I dump a 5 gallon bucket on the deck.
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congrats! i saw that for sale... I'm in the same boat as you, as i just basically have the same plans. Good Luck!
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Aaron,
Just finished reading your entire rebuild. WOW! Feels like I just finished a great book.
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What is the best way to investigate the stringers? Anybody ever use a ziz wheel to do cutting or is a sawzall the way to go? If my stringers need to be replaced, Is it best to pour new foam using the original stringer skins or can you use plywood? Structural integrity vs. weight. Has anyone ever pondered fabricating Aluminum stringers? My best friend that will be helping me rebuild the FB is an Al boat fabricator. The company is Backwater Boatworks out of Macon, GA. They have built 4 boats completely from custom design. They are intended for flats or swamp use, CC, with inboard Mercury jet drives. They are really impressive in their capability but the exhaust is ridonculously loud!!
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Look at where the stringer grid meets the hull and make sure that it's all securely bonded to the hull. If it is, you can reuse the stringers.
To check for water you can drill a 1" hole near the bottom of the stringer in the aft of the boat and see if water comes out or if the foam is soaked. I would think that unless someone already replaced the foam, that it is holding some water after all these years. If so, you can cut the tops off the stringers in places and dig out the foam and replace it. To raise the floor height Aaron has a neat little trick using a hollow PVC fence post or something like that and wrap it with cloth/resin. Lay it on top of the stringers and glass over the whole shebang.
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if i where to do over, i would run the sawzall along the base of the stringers and remover as one large piece dig the foam out, grind the whole inside, do a solid layer of 1708 across the entire hull bottom and re-tab the stringer skins, and pour new foam. instead i dug the foam out of the stringers, tabbed inside and out and poured new foam.
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Wow Aron thats a great thought, do you think you could get the blade in there to make that cut?
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Thanks Rick. Just got her home. no question about it. Full re-do for the stringers. I will take some good detailed pics tomorrow after work. I like Aaron's idea to cut them out completely and beef up the bottom. I think I have just the blade for that job. Could you explain the re-tabbing process. I still haven't learned all the new "language". Paul hooked me up with some left over materials. What's a good inventory list to start with? I am going to close my transom just like Aaron's but I may have a different plan for the bait well position. The stringers have been cut about a foot away from the transom already. How will I tie them back into the transom?
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It's always a smart plan to start with fresh cloth across the whole hull. Will reinforce the hull, help stiffen the sides and give you known good glass to start building from.
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Good time to ask the age old question as to which way to tab, overlap or bigger to smaller.
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Hawgleg and QP google on "tabbing with fiberglass" - lots of answers and Youtube there.
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Yea, thanks Rick I read it. Still don't which is better, some prefer larger to smaller cause they say less chance of water intrusion on the the overlap. I guess there is an argument for both ways. I'm leaning toward the overlap method myself.
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Here she is at her new home. I haven't cleaned out a spot in the shop yet but will get her inside soon. (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/2/IMG_12811.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12456&title=img-12811&cat=2)
The cap and deck seem to be in ok condition. there is some spidering which I will get pictures of.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1285.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12461&title=img-1285&cat=500)
Stringers are shot. Probably going to do like Aaron said and take them off as one piece from the bottom then remove all the old foam.(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1283.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12459&title=img-1283&cat=500)
Transom looks pretty bad. Planning on a closed transom so I will work on that when the time comes.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_12821.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12457&title=img-12821&cat=500)
Once I get the cap and deck unloaded again I will take more pics.
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QP - Try this - http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12325.0
There are a lot of answers in the Fiberglass and Materials Corner forum.
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Ok here's a topic I'd like to see some debate on. Reusing the original stringer design( like Aaron's) VS. Taking them out completely and using a laminated material to make a grid (like DW's)?
For my transom: do I leave the original skin and build onto it with coosa/Penske/marine ply and do I need to work on the transom first before stringers?
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The thing about the trapezoid stringers is each stringer is like 2 stringers since it has two sides. So you would have 8 stringers if you pulled all 5 and rebuilt them.
There is nothing wrong with reusing them or building stringers even out of wood as long as they are sealed correctly - so no debate is necessary. Look through the FB rebuild forum and you'll see some pro rebuilds and us regular guys - see how each approached it. I am rebuilding a 170 so it's smaller but the same issues and decisions.
The main thing is that you have the longitudinal strength with the full length of the stringers and then put bulk heads in to stiffen the hull and connect them to the sides to make a grid and a solid platform to fend off twisting and other stresses. What you want to do is stabilize that hull maybe on a low floor brace so you can step in and out easily) and then lock the sides in so they don't flex (maybe someone can give you width measurements so you can build braces) and then decide what you're going to do for transom and stringers. Yes, do the transom first after getting the boat stabilized, it's part of the "hull" and will help stabilize it.
Some advice has been offered to you about cutting them out - what you replace them with after that is up to you. The main idea is that you grind down the entire hull and then get a couple layers of cloth across the entire hull. My advice is to use epoxy for this area at a minimum - it's 200 times stronger in bonding than poly and much stronger than vinylester (google bonding strength for epoxy vs poly and you'll get enough to read for the night). Now you have a "new" hull to attach to.
Didn't you get Seacast for the transom with the sale? I don't think you can get a better material for a transom if it's installed correctly - it's like concrete. A forever transom (Lars can jump in here and give you his experience) but you'll need to prepare to use it. I think that is a poly based product so you have to be cagey on how you do everything or use something else and sell the seacast.
As for the transom prep - I think you're going to have to lay up some cloth to build up that transom skin and clamp a sheet of melamine to the outside to keep it flat while you're doing the build up - you mention full transom - there are a ton of examples, DW included, to tutor you through this process and using seacast is fine for that application also (not sure how much you have).
Shine also rebuilt a FB and can give his advice.
Enough for now.
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Thanks Rick, great info. Yes I did get 6 gallons of sea cast. It says on the label to use promptly and I'm not sure what the shelf life is. I'm sure it was stored properly though. Am I supposed to be able to smell the vapors a mile away when it hasn't been opened?? I'm definitely up for using the materials I have cause it will save some coin. I have a really convenient maintenence stair that I use for my skiff so getting in and out of the boat isn't a problem at all if its ok to work on the trailer and still brace up the sides.
So when I epoxy 1708 over the entire hull I will use epoxy for the stringers and transom? I read a post you wrote that only epoxy will bond to epoxy right?
I'm pretty sure I'm going to use the original stringers. The logic you presented makes sense plus I think it will be quieter.
I know yor probably just ready for me to get to it hehe. Just anxious and want to do the best job I can. I'm a... :sign0104:
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Hmmm... Seacast instructions say guaranteed shelf life of 6 months if stored cool dark no more than 77 deg.
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Thanks Rick, great info. Yes I did get 6 gallons of sea cast. It says on the label to use promptly and I'm not sure what the shelf life is. I'm sure it was stored properly though. Am I supposed to be able to smell the vapors a mile away when it hasn't been opened??
No clue about this. I am concerned about the compatibility of seacast with epoxy. Do some research on what it is made of.
I'm definitely up for using the materials I have cause it will save some coin. I have a really convenient maintenence stair that I use for my skiff so getting in and out of the boat isn't a problem at all if its ok to work on the trailer and still brace up the sides.
If you are going to leave it on the trailer (I left my 170 on the trailer) just make sure the bottom is supported evenly everywhere and you don't have anything support-wise that is adding a "hook" to the hull (pressing up on the hull and bulging it upward) because when you lay the cloth over the whole hull and it cures, it will cure in the shape of the hull - good or bad.
So when I epoxy 1708 over the entire hull I will use epoxy for the stringers and transom? I read a post you wrote that only epoxy will bond to epoxy right?
Correct. I did the whole hull of my 170 with epoxy, to include stringers and transom. I have a liner so I was able to switch up to poly above the floor and attach to the liner sides with poly. I'm gelcoating above the liner and gelcoat is poly. Check out my rebuild, when you have a free week ;-) , to see how I made the transisition.
I'm pretty sure I'm going to use the original stringers. The logic you presented makes sense plus I think it will be quieter.
Your choice. You'll have to cliean them up (grind) and reattach with fillets and tabbing and then I would cover them all the way with 1708. Check out this rebuild by a pro and they cut out and reused the stringers http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=9991.0
I know yor probably just ready for me to get to it hehe. Just anxious and want to do the best job I can. I'm a... :sign0104:
We all had questions - I still have questions, so no problem.
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Hello HawgLeg and Rick,
Yes, it stinks even if the cans are not opened... Mine came from Denmark, and had been sitting for a while.
They looked a bit like dried paint cans when I first opened them, but I stirred them good and they came out fine.
What I learned is that Seacast is not compatible with Epoxy. It will not bond to anything but poly.
It is also important to remove all wood. I extended my transom back to stock (1/2") taller on the sides, and cut out the profile of the transom before the pour.
I also installed a couple of the Seacast blocks to help keep the transom from buckling.
Once I poured up to the level were the motor sits, I used duck tape and some lead weights to help the tape, and kept pouring starboard and port sides from the top.
If you are doing a full transom, I think you need to glue some of those blocks to prevent the transom from buckling.
It was quite a bit of heat generated when the Seacast started to harden.
I was never worried, but it was warm to the touch. It did not burn your hand, but was not far from it.
After the pour, I grind the outside and inside (4 inches) and fiber glassed a cap over the top. The transom is now rock hard and super strong.
I'm very happy with the product, even though it was a lot of work, I'm super happy with the end result.
I hope this helps. Please don't hesitate to ask me more questions.
I'm not a pro
//Lars
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It has been a while since I've posted anything but I did finally get started.This flatback had a failed attempt at a seacast transom pour. Most of the material had been removed prior to me getting the boat. I really just wanted to do something today so I started by suiting up and grinding what was left of the seacast on the outer transom skin and the starboard hull side.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_13522.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12697&title=img-13522&cat=500)
There was actually a good bit of seacast left on there as well as some old ply on the transom skin that wasn't removed for the previous transom job. I ground some about two feet from the transom corner toward the bow on the starboard side. The CSM looked pretty bad and I even had to get into the woven a bit because there were voids and delimitation.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_13721.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12698&title=img-13721&cat=500)
Again, I was just getting my feet wet today. I have all day tomorrow to get after it. But this is what I did so far.(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1375.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12699&title=img-1375&cat=500)
I'd like to hear some opinions of what to do with this transom skin. I'm thinking cut it out and leave about 2-3" all the way around to screw some melamine to it so I can lay up a new transom skin. Or should I repair the original skin and build it up. I am doing a closed transom. I am also working with poly for the whole shebang.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_13852.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12701&title=img-13852&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1380.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12700&title=img-1380&cat=500)
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More holes in the transom skin
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1381.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12705&title=img-1381&cat=500)
Port side transom with lots of seacast to grind off
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_13691.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12704&title=img-13691&cat=500)
Also, here are some shots of the stringers. They gotta come out. Too much work to repair and repair and I want to do a grid with something else anyway.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1362.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12703&title=img-1362&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1345.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12702&title=img-1345&cat=500)
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If you need a tool to get into the corners Harbor Freight is your toy store
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-surface-sanding-disc-kit-96785.html
Here is some places for examples of transom rebuilds.
Poly
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=9991.msg87558#msg87558
Poly
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=957.msg6588#msg6588
Vinylester
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=9842.msg88588#msg88588
Epoxy and cut out totally
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=4582.msg33663#msg33663
Poly and totally cut out - coosa for everything
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=5724.msg39492#msg39492
Epoxy and cutout with lip left around edge
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=11294
That should keep you busy for a while and help you make a decision which will work best for you.
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Hawg, that skin is freaking toast! I would brace the sides up and cut that crap out of there.
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Cally I concur with you man. Did some more prep grinding today and cut out the old skin leaving a 2.5" lip. Braced the hull before I cut and measured from chine to shear. Both sides were equal so I felt good about proceeding with removing the skin. Phone died while I was working so I came inside to get some water, AC and a recharge. Home Depot nor Lowes had any melamine sheets so I called a buddy and he is ordering some from Atlanta on Monday. Should have it on Tuesday. This should give me time to be absolutely ready to layup my new skin next week.
I'm using Poly and I already have 3/4oz mat and 1708. Ya'll think this will work for the skin?
3/4oz
2x1708
2xply with 3/4,1708,3/4
inside skin(2x1708?)
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Do you have an old formica counter top? That would work even better as long as it's wide enough.
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Rick,
Don't have any but my buddy who is a carpenter may. I picked up some visqueen at Lowes today. What type of wax do I need. Can you use car wax?
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I've never used formica but Aaron did.
Looks good Aaron. Was it hard to pop the glass off the formica? Did you wax it first or .... :scratch: :scratch: :scratch:
i waxed it but isnt really necessary. pull out super easy.
Even if you can find a sheet of the ugliest design in a store that they want to get rid of for cheap - or a cabinet makers shop that has left overs from a job, that'll give you the best form making tool. Get the formica and lam it on a piece of plywood.
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I found a 4x8 piece of formica at Lowe's. It was pretty banged up but was able to talk them into letting me have it for $20. Gonna build a frame with 2x4's on the back of a 4x8 piece of play and glue the formica to it. When I get done i can use it as a table. I see how to clamp it to the transom using a c-clamp on a block on the hull side then a squeeze clamp from block to dam but how would you screw the dam to the old skin lip to get it tight and flush?
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Nice score - you can glue the formica to some Masonite or something that'll keep it flat and you can use it as a "wet out" table when you're done using it as the form for the transom - this is where you pre wet the cloth and then lay it where you need it.
I'll delete the posts about the teens - a sad situation for sure.
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I found a 4x8 piece of formica at Lowe's. It was pretty banged up but was able to talk them into letting me have it for $20. Gonna build a frame with 2x4's on the back of a 4x8 piece of play and glue the formica to it. When I get done i can use it as a table. I see how to clamp it to the transom using a c-clamp on a block on the hull side then a squeeze clamp from block to dam but how would you screw the dam to the old skin lip to get it tight and flush?
Some sturdy screws should pull it down tight, drill pilot holes first. It does not need to be super super tight, you will not be putting much pressure on it while you laminate the inside skin. You can just cut or grind off the tips of the screws from the inside
When you bed (clamp or screw) in the new core, you will be pulling it together with the "mold".
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Got a little closer to laying up my skin this weekend. I know my dam is a little on the large side but I want to use it as a table afterward and I didn't want to waste any material. I have some ideas on how I can use clamps to hold up my cloth while I'm laying up the skin. Thinking of clamping small piece of wood at the appropriate height on the dam for that. Its REALLY warm up here in GA so whatever glass work I do will need to be at night.
Here is a pic from last week when I cut out the old skin leaving a lip.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1395.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12728&title=img-1395&cat=500)
Here is my 4x8 Hoover dam lol
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1410.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12725&title=img-1410&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1412.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12726&title=img-1412&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1413.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12727&title=img-1413&cat=500)
I clamped it up first then put a few screws around the lip while my dad helped keep it tight. Then I cut the screw tips and ground them flush from the inside. Its holding pretty good.
Should I lay up the skin a let it cure then bed the core or should I have my core already laminated together and put it in while the skin is still tacky? To better phrase my question...Do the skin and bed the core, clamp it all together OR Do them separate?
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Now you're cooking :thumleft:
The transom will be nice and flat when you're finished. I would lam the 3 layers of 1708 to the form and let them harden. Then start working on the core and trowel thickened resin onto the new skin and clamp the core in.
You can refrigerate the resin and it'll give you some more pot life. Did you get the scale to weigh the glass?
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She's coming along nicely - keep up the good work. I still expect a fishing trip when the boat is done. I will even buy the gas.
Paul
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Roger that Paul!
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Anybody got any leads on the best priced Corecell for my stringers? looking for 1" 5 #.
Rick,
Remember us talking about the 1" PVC for the drain plug? My drain plug hole is a about a 1/4"+ high. Can you see that in the pics or do I need to take a close up?
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I can see it. You're going to cover that up when you lam the inside. Of course you can cut it back out and your goal is to keep the bottom of the hull (inside) at that level. After you lam the new inside skin of the transom and then add the coring and then the lam in front of that, the hole will still be at 1/4" but the hull in front of that will be higher and water will pool up in front of the high spot. So you need to figure out a way to allow water to drain all the way out of your boat without pooling up in front of the laminations.
My idea of using pvc pipe will keep the bottom of the drain hole where it currently is. Does that make sense? If not maybe I can draw something up to illustrate this.
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Yea makes sense just not sure at which step the PVC needs to be set in the hole. Are you saying I should lay up the outer skin, let it harden, then drill the drain hole back out, glue the PVC in, cut a notch in the core, set the core, fill in the notch around the PVC with putty, then lay up the inner skin? Then what? Grind it back till the hole in the PVC is flush with the inner skin? Trying to picture all this in my head but maybe need a diagram or something.
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I think you're on target. I don't think you'll get the PVC ground back square but at an angle - grinding the top of it at an angle to the hull but not too far out in front or you'll have water pool behind the pipe opening.
just remember that the more layers of cloth/glass you lay, the more it will build up in front of the transom core. 6 layers of 1708 is about 1/4" and water will pool in front of that 1/4". I bet my build up was 1/4-3/8", so with out a means of lowering that build up, I will always have water pooling in front of my drain.
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Anybody got any leads on the best priced Corecell for my stringers? looking for 1" 5 #.
Had to google where Macon was haha. A couple hours from the coast it looks like? I bet if you called some boatbuilders out near the coast and were willing to drive theyd probably sell you some at cost if ya tell em what you've got going on and how far youre traveling... Much rather spend a lil in fuel than pay retail AND shipping!
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DW,
Cmon man Allman Bros and Otis Redding were from Macon, GA haha. Yea I may NEED to do a fishing trip to Sarasota and pick some up on the way back
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And on the drain thing... The bilge on mine is so flat, it always has a bit of water in it. With the stringer and transom tabbing there it just creates a small valley right in the middle, not enough to bother me though, maybe 1/2" deep in the middle...
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DW,
Cmon man Allman Bros and Otis Redding were from Macon, GA haha. Yea I may NEED to do a fishing trip to Sarasota and pick some up on the way back
Used to visit my grandpas place in Americus when I was a kid. Pretty close it looked like!
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I drew up a sketch of what I was trying to explain, exported it to send it home and forgot to send it home - go figure. So I'll post it tomorrow.
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Probably left it next to your glasses. :det1:
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Exactly where I found them.
Hope these help:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/pvc_pipe_drain_drwgs1.png) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12733&title=pvc-pipe-drain-drwgs1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/pvc_pipe_drain_drwgs2.png) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12734&title=pvc-pipe-drain-drwgs2&cat=500)
If not at least it will stir some scrutiny.
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Thanks Rick. Hope my supplies come from Pro Marine today so I can do something. I'm still not 100% satisfied my dam is going to do what I want. It looks good all around the lip except the top say 6" where there is a gap between the edge of the lip(which is beveled) and the dam. Gonna make for a pretty wonky skin I would think. Maybe a few more screws :?:
Yesterday I was checking out my guwhale cap and I don't think its gonna require too much work before I can slap er back on. Corning looks like crap but the glass still looks pretty good. Also trying to figure out what to do with my casting deck. It has a hull liner attached from casting deck all the way to the transom. How was it removed so clean? Was it just screwed with the cap at the top and tabbed to the sole at the bottom? No glue in between liner and hull. Seems like that would make a bunch of noise. If i reuse the old liner, the height will have to be adjusted for raising the deck and it will need a lot of repair. Thinking I should cut the liner off at the casting deck. I'm going to build up the hull anyway. Will post pics of cap and deck/liner this evening to better explain.
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I'm still not 100% satisfied my dam is going to do what I want. It looks good all around the lip except the top say 6" where there is a gap between the edge of the lip(which is beveled) and the dam. Gonna make for a pretty wonky skin I would think. Maybe a few more screws :?:
Will post pics of cap and deck/liner this evening to better explain.
Is the lip pushing out the dam? If so, maybe you need to cut that part of the lip away and pull the dam in tight. Now is your chance to make the transom nice and flat.
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I had planned to reuse the deck and liner that's why I removed it so carefully and was bale to get it off in one piece. The cap was screwed every 4 inches and glued around the edge and glassed into the floor. It wasn't noisy at all.
My plan was to raise the floor an inch or two and cut a corresponding dimension off the bottom of the liner and deck so it would fit back in. I liked to shape and size of the original casting deck.
Best of luck,
Paul
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Heres the gap that I was talking about. I just needed more screws closer to the edge and it pulled it in nice n tight.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1417.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12737&title=img-1417&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1418.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12738&title=img-1418&cat=500)
Dad and I are still in the process of liquidating crap from our shop so my work space is rather tight in here.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1421.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12741&title=img-1421&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_14341.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12748&title=img-14341&cat=500)
Layed fillets in the corners and a little bit around the seam of the lip and formica. I waited until about 9PM and It was raining so temp in the shop were probably 80deg. With the humidity added it took almost 45 min for my fillets to start to get right.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1425.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12747&title=img-1425&cat=500)
My dam is really too high but heck we made it work. Gonna be a fine table when it comes off the transom. Instead of being able to clip my layers in place we just draped them over the back in order of layup. With two sets of hands it wasn't that big of a deal to get each layer in place and not create a lot of bubbles. Got all of those out with two bubble rollers working simultaneously and a chip brush for the pesky bubbles.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_14321.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12744&title=img-14321&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1437.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12746&title=img-1437&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1431.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12743&title=img-1431&cat=500)
Rick, I'm gonna drill the hole back out and lay in the PVC soon.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1442.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12750&title=img-1442&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_14351.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12745&title=img-14351&cat=500)
I feel really good about it. It looks like I did something!! :dancing:
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Looks like you did a great job :13:
Now you have something nice and flat to start from and everything will be easier to work on.
:nSalute:
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Got the two core halves cut, fitted and laminated last night. By time I finished, the Perseid meteor shower was full on and it was a perfect moonless night for it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1453.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12781&title=img-1453&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1454.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12782&title=img-1454&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1455.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12784&title=img-1455&cat=500)
Made one mistake here and it was because I didn't label properly. I wetted out the wrong side of my inner pice of ply...damnit man :38:
Wasted some resin but oh well. Carefully slid/pulled it off and wetted the other side. Predrilled and put 4 screws to hold the halves in place. Put some visqueen over it and laid the weight on. Once the weight was on I backed the screws up a little and then put em back in to make sure I got full compression. These pieces of marble were HEAVY!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_14561.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12783&title=img-14561&cat=500)
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Solid as a rock and ready to go in.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_14611.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12798&title=img-14611&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_14591.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12797&title=img-14591&cat=500)
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looking good. im glad to see that you're using plywood for the transom. There are a lot of trendier, "new fangled" products out there but none with the proven strength and reliability of a good marine plywood transom. The first one lasted 40+ years and you should get another 40+ out of this one.
Keep up the good work. :bravo_2:
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The first one lasted 40+ years and you should get another 40+ out of this one.
EXACTLY! Glad you are keeping up with my progress.
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Looks solid :thumleft:
So what is the plan for clamping it to the new outer skin?
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So what is the plan for clamping it to the new outer skin?
I can't bear to put holes in my new skin or core...sooo I'm gonna make 4x4 clamps. I thought about it a lot this afternoon and I'm just going to have to cut my dam down to where I can use the clamps. Unless you think I can remove the dam which I'm itching to do, and then clamp to melamine, ply or something sturdy and flat. I just can't do holes...even though I'm positive you get a much better clamp all the way down and across by using through bolts.
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I don't blame you about the holes in the new skin :a102:
I noticed that you have the boat a little forward of the end of the bunks - why not push/pull the boat back a little so it clears the bunks and then you can drop the table to the floor which allows you to work from the top with the clamps. I was going to bring this up before but you seemed to have it figured out and I know how hard it is to readjust after you have "figured out" something.
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The dam came off and WOW! Definitely not putting any holes in the new skin. So the plan is to clamp it up with a piece of ply or melamine on the outside. Got more resin in today so I'm just waiting on my extra set of hands to get back in town.
I noticed that you have the boat a little forward of the end of the bunks - why not push/pull the boat back a little so it clears the bunks and then you can drop the table to the floor which allows you to work from the top with the clamps.
I didn't have the manpower at the time to move the hull on the bunks. Also with me moving the boat in and out of the shop to grind glass I figured it would be a pain. Its all good though because this new plan is much better and simplifies how I am gonna go about it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1463.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12799&title=img-1463&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1464.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12800&title=img-1464&cat=500)
I did go ahead and cut and drizzle out the drain plug hole tonight. I widened the hole a bit to fit the PVC in. I got it to where the PVC lays fairly flush with the bottom of the hull. Problem is...the cylinder(pipe) is at the wrong angle. To get the pipe at the same angle as the transom means the pipe has to come up off the bottom of the hull about a half in or more. Hope I didn't create a problem here. I'll wait for feedback before I proceed with glueing the PVC in place.
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New skin looks very nice :whistle:
Don't worry about the pipe being perpendicular to the transom, you want to be flat on the hull bottom and you can grind the pipe to the angle of the transom. If you use a garboard plug on the outside of the transom the pipe can be at any angle.
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What happened to the sidewall? It looks like a chunk was taken out next to the Aquqsport logo. :scrHead:
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Don't worry about the pipe being perpendicular to the transom, you want to be flat on the hull bottom and you can grind the pipe to the angle of the transom. If you use a garboard plug on the outside of the transom the pipe can be at any angle.
Thats a relief. I need to take a closeup of the drain from the back. Not sure if the placement is going to allow a garboard unless they make them small diameter.
What happened to the sidewall? It looks like a chunk was taken out next to the Aquqsport logo. :scrHead:
No worries its just overlap from the layup.
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I got ya. :salut2:
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How hard was it to pull the "table" off the transom skin?
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How hard was it to pull the "table" off the transom skin?
No biggie. It didn't just fall off...it took some force but it popped off fairly easily. I didn't have a problem but it might make it easier for one man to pull off if it were waxed.
Got the transom core in and found a good deal on amazon for a Makita 7" grinder with a dust shroud for the shop vac. I've decided the coring and glass on the cap don't really need attention plus I don't have the offset numbers so I could create a problem if I glass anything on the cap before its back on the hull. I'd like to just clean it up, scruff it and get it back on the hull before I start cutting out stringers this weekend. I will need to build up and sand down a few spots on the shear line before the cap goes on.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_14761.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12807&title=img-14761&cat=500)
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Progress is a good thing :thumleft:
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Removed my clamps last night and tapped all around with a quarter and it sounded solid as a rock all over. My corners have very good bonds with resin squeezed out all the way around the core. I started to work on my drain first by drilling out the core with a hole saw. All was looking good until I noticed a 1/16-1/8" gap around the edge of my new hole between the outer skin and my core. UH OH!! :41:
I did some more tapping around that area with a quarter and paid closer attention to the sound changes. Then I got some safety wire and started probing around. I was praying it would only go about an inch but oh no it kept going about 7-8inches in each direction around the drain hole. Then I got out my streamlight and put it up to the skin and examined. I can see plain as day where the void is. Its a pretty big void but it will be OK after I fill it in. Id say its about a cup in volume. Id say I have a 90% solid bond especially in the corners just this one area didn't get enough peanut butter I reckon. Im baffled though because I erred on the side of overdoing it. I'll try my best to get this well photo documented in case it happens to anybody else.
I know what I have to do but I dug around on here anyway to see if I could find others that had this happen. I came across this:
When you push on it it flexes in between 1/64" to 1/32" ... could it be drilled and injected with resin??
I had the same thing happen to me. I ended up drilling an array of 1/8" relief holes from the top of the void to a few inches above the bottom of the void. I also drilled a few 1/4" holes along the bottom of the void. I bought a handful of empty caulking tubes from FGCI, and filled them with epoxy thickened with cabosil - not peanut butter consistency in this case, more like a thick syrup. I started injecting in one of the 1/4" holes. As the epoxy started oozing from each relief hole, I put a screw in it. Then continued injecting and plugging holes until the void was filled. I can't say for sure that it is 100% filled, but it is very solid. Just make sure you don't pressurize the cavity and cause it to bow out. And this job definitely goes smoother with an extra set of hands.
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Forgot to mention that I will go ahead and get my bilge drain pipe set and the hole in the core filled before I mess with the void. It'll be less of a mess this way.
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Wanted to post up some progress before I head to Apalachicola for a much needed vacation. Fingers crossed that Erika breaks up! I'm searching for a tank in the 50-70gal range. Since the plan is to hang a 200 In-line 4 stroke Yamaha on the back I'm thinking big for the tank. Also, ready to pick up my stringer core and bulkhead material. I'll double check but I think I need 16-17" stringer height to raise my deck 4"+. Whats the best deal out there for 2" foam sheets? Ive been scouring the net and am unsure what I need.
I originally planned to remove the original stringers completely but after a few beers and staring and thinking I changed my mind and decided I'd investigate further before I removed them. That didn't last long. Starting digging foam out and then decided to revert to the original plan. A oscillating multitool, crowbar, and a machete were my weapons of choice and made short work of removing the stringers and old foam.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1492.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12852&title=img-1492&cat=500)
I only had time to remove up to the livewell.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1493.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12853&title=img-1493&cat=500)
Did get the cap back on temporarily.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1494.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12854&title=img-1494&cat=500)
Went to Lowes and got some 42 gallon contractor cleanup bags. Really impressed at the mess I didn't make outside the boat! Now time to load up the truck and head to the county recycling center.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1496.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12855&title=img-1496&cat=500)
Hopefully will be able to put some tarpon and red pics up soon if I don't get blown off the water!!
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Nice progress :thumleft:
Once you get the stringer "liner" out and the hull ground down you'll feel great (besides the itching) . Then lay a layer or 2 of 1708 across the entire hull overlapping at the chines and the center line, with epoxy and that will be a new "blank slate" - ready for any design you have.
Do yourself a favor and don't get too far ahead of your progress, in your head. I bet I spent a couple weeks worth of time just staring at the hull or other parts I was working on - see if you can break it into smaller chunks other than the "Global" view and tackle them before thinking forward to far.
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Here is some pics explaining the drain problem
In the first pic you can see the boat is raised up for drainage and it rained last evening so I went out and checked the scuppers to see how they were working and letting the water run out from the deck :thumleft:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1546.JPG)
I opened the rear hatch to look in the bilge and yup, there is water in there
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1547.JPG)
This pic is me leaning forward and looking in the back of the bilge toward the drain - see, it's high and dry :03: and that is because of all the laminating and overlap buildups
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1548.JPG)
Had I thought about this prior to the work I would have done the PVC thing I was trying to explain to you.
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if you notice in my rebuild, theres no drain plug on my transom. with all of the extra layers of glass, any water that would be in the bilge had to be an inch or more deeper to reach the transom, even with the bow jacked way high. i installed one of these perko garboard drain plugs about a foot forward of the transom, and she drains all but 1/4 inch of water with the bow slightly up.
http://www.amazon.com/Perko-0266DP0PLB-Garboard-Drain-Plug/dp/B002IV4ZF0
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61mE17r3VXL._SL1500_.jpg)
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Just got back in town from Apalachicola. Time to get to grinding now.
Rick, is there anything you can do or just keep a sponge handy? I still haven't taken a pick but I did get the foot long 1" PVC glued in. Transom is ready to be glassed in.
Aaron, have you tried pulling it and draining while under way just to see if thats an option if the pump fails?
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Sponge I guess. I hope that the bilge will stay dry once she's all back together.
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i havent yet, its right behind my livewell pickup so theoretically it should work
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Vacation and business have slowed me down temporarily but I'm back at it. Wanted to post up some progress.
Here is my foot long 1" PVC glued in to the bottom of the hull.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1536.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12924&title=img-1536&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1535.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12923&title=img-1535&cat=500)
Grinding away
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1533.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12921&title=img-1533&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1532.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12920&title=img-1532&cat=500)
Almost done grinding the hull. Got a little more "grass mowing" (as Joel put it) to do.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1534.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12922&title=img-1534&cat=500)
I'm now figuring out my gameplan for stringers, bulkheads, and fuel tank. I think I am gonna take the advice given and go epoxy rather than poly for the hull bottom, stringers, and bulkheads. May use plywood for stringers and bulkheads instead of foam or composite. I haven't completely made up my mind on that.
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Looking goog HL :thumleft:
I think I would lay a fillet of thickened resin along the base of PVC to fill it in so there is no air gap on the PVC sides/hull bottom and give the glass a transition point. Then it'll be part of the whole lamination.
That's quite the grinder setup. What do you have on it for the pad?
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Rick its kinda hard to see in the pic but I did lay in a fillet when I glued in the pvc. Your absolutely right I will lay another fillet for a smooth transition.
That's quite the grinder setup. What do you have on it for the pad?
Its a Makita 7" 15 amp 6000RPM. A conical flap disc won't fit on the shroud...I think. So its a flat shaped flap disc. Doesn't remove as much material as a conical but it still eats.
I had to use the 4" grinder up in the bow/keel area. I ground down into the glass that supports the bow eye to check out the wood and condition of the bolt. Wood looks good and dry and the bolt looks fine. Just fill it back in with epoxy and move on when I lay in new glass?
Also, There is a lot of blueish grey material up in the bow. Its bonding putty for the casting deck liner right? does it all need to come off or will epoxy bond to it if I just clean it up.
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Looks great. I look at the photos with a tear in my eye. I loved that old boat. Keep up the good work.
Thanks,
Paul
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Rick its kinda hard to see in the pic but I did lay in a fillet when I glued in the pvc. Your absolutely right I will lay another fillet for a smooth transition.
Lay it thick in there on each side and the pipe will become part of the hull
That's quite the grinder setup. What do you have on it for the pad?
Its a Makita 7" 15 amp 6000RPM. A conical flap disc won't fit on the shroud...I think. So its a flat shaped flap disc. Doesn't remove as much material as a conical but it still eats.
I had to use the 4" grinder up in the bow/keel area. I ground down into the glass that supports the bow eye to check out the wood and condition of the bolt. Wood looks good and dry and the bolt looks fine. Just fill it back in with epoxy and move on when I lay in new glass?
Also, There is a lot of blueish grey material up in the bow. Its bonding putty for the casting deck liner right? does it all need to come off or will epoxy bond to it if I just clean it up.
Nice grinder setup though. I would not trust the bonding putty for a good bond, even with epoxy.
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Just spoke with Joel this morning and ordered my epoxy. He said to just clean it up a bit and make sure the surface is smooth but not to worry about the putty bedded in the woven that the bond will be good.
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I agree with Joel that you don't need to get it out of the deep woven but I would grind down to glass enough to give the epoxy something solid to grab onto. Looking at the pics of the front portion, you are not deep enough yet.
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subscribed. :thumright:
glassing over old putty or tabbing... the new glass will only be bonded to the hull as well as the old stuff is attached to the hull. So long as you remove most of it, and get at least some hull glass surface to bond to, the epoxy will take care of it. I like to see close up pictures before saying "thats enough" - we might have two different ideas on what is "mostly removed" :wink2:
May use plywood for stringers and bulkheads instead of foam or composite. I haven't completely made up my mind on that.
plywood/epoxy/biax stringers will weigh a little more, but they will cost less than half the cost and at least half the labor. Its a trade off.
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Thank goodness the major grinding phase is complete!!!
Removed all of the bonding putty on both sides.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1553.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12957&title=img-1553&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1554.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12958&title=img-1554&cat=500)
My epoxy came in today. Planning to start at the bow and lay a layer of 1708 over the entire hull working my way to the stern where I will finish by laying up the inner transom skin with 3 layers 1708.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1556.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12959&title=img-1556&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1557.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12960&title=img-1557&cat=500)
Before I get started I have a couple of questions.
1. How far up the sides should I go with the 1708?
2. Is it Ok to fill the keel in the bow with epoxy putty then lay 1708 on top?
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Looks good. :thumleft:
1) as far up as you can go. There is many ways to skin this cat and I would do a half at a time, starting at the hull sides and over lap 4 inches at the chine (both up and down) and then lay half the boat overlapping at the keel and then repeat with the other side. Can you pop the cap off? It'll make it much easier - get good measurements before you do though and then brace it with some 2x4s across the top.
Here is one side of mine done. http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.msg92382#msg92382
And both done. http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.msg92936#msg92936
2) Notice I put a filler in where you are thinking of building it up. I used a composite board - Jasper board. And then poured foam under it. The Aquasports like to hold water there so might as well fill it.
Great progress though!!
The epoxy gets real slippery if you step in it - don't ask how I know that :73:
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1. How far up the sides should I go with the 1708?
a few inches at least
2. Is it Ok to fill the keel in the bow with epoxy putty then lay 1708 on top?
I put in a wedge of transom foam in there and glassed over with 1708 , it made mounting the bow eye a lot easier too.
It will be easier to do a good transom lamination if you pull the cap up first.
Nice grinding job !
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Careful with that cap sag. May want to support the hull sides.
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Careful with that cap sag. May want to support the hull sides.
Not sure I understand. The cap was already removed when I got the project. I put it back up there to keep the shape, get it out of the elements, and take measurements. It will come off before I glass the hull.
Rick,
I'm still planning to use poly above the sole and gelcoat the inside of the boat so I don't think I would want to run the epoxy lam up further than the height of the sole.
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Mine had a liner so I could hide the epoxy behind it. I think some FBs had a thin liner for the hullsides to hide the raw glass. I had to build a "shell" for the transom from poly to bury the epoxy on the transom behind it. I epoxied the shell onto the transom. The face is poly.
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Glad I got this out!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_15621.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12963&title=img-15621&cat=500)
cap measurements taken, cap back off, hull sides braced
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_15743.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12965&title=img-15743&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_15753.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12966&title=img-15753&cat=500)
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Yeah, that eye block didn't look too healthy - good thinking to pull that :thumleft: You can use a 4x4 cut corner to corner and rounded off to fit back in there. Might have to fuss a bit with it to get it just right. I added a plate of aluminum to cap it off.
Grinding looks real good. I think I might glass right over where the block was to get a fresh layer and then figure out the new block.
Keep up the forward motion :nSalute:
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The epoxy gets real slippery if you step in it - don't ask how I know that :73:
Yep it sure does...lol
Got the starboard side glassed yesterday evening. Did some skating around and managed to glue my kneecaps to my pants!! Overall I think it was a successful first experience with epoxy haha.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image381.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12972&title=image381&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image382.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12973&title=image382&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image380.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12971&title=image380&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image383.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12974&title=image383&cat=500)
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Nice work :thumright:!
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Man that was fast and looks great! You'll be glad you took this step (well not the one into the epoxy :lol: ).
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Indeed! :thumright:
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Haven't gotten the port side glassed yet. Had to order more 1708. This weekend I went ahead and separated the casting deck from the liner pieces. I'm tossing some ideas around in my head as to what I want to do with the deck. Leave as is and find hatch covers or change the layout a bit to add under deck storage. Haven't decided whether I am going to put a trolling motor on or not. If I do, then the batteries will go in the original battery box. My cranking/electronics batteries will likely be in the console. I would like to fill in the holes where the two doors are on the rear of the casting deck because thats the best place for speakers. The fish box in the middle of the casting deck really isn't big enough for my needs and could be repurposed for cast net buckets. Im planning on a large cooler for a fish box anyway. Could add doors to the inside walls of that compartment for below deck storage. Any ideas are welcome! OH and my dad hooked me up with a paint sprayer we had at work. Its a Apollo 800+ HPLV sprayer. Anybody ever used one of these units for gelcoat?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_15981.JPG)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12983&title=img-15981&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_16001.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12984&title=img-16001&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_16011.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12985&title=img-16011&cat=500)
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You mention the original battery box - where is that again? Is it where the original baitwell was on these boats, below the sole where the "windows" may be?
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You mention the original battery box - where is that again? Is it where the original baitwell was on these boats, below the sole where the "windows" may be?
I'm assuming it is where the wires are coming out and the battery tie-down strap is in picture 2.
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What you are referring to battery boxes is where I stored the batteries for my 24v trolling motor. originally it was just hinged storage with a removable face. I think you have those pieces as well. It's coming along nicely. I'm jealous - keep up the good work.
Paul
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Thanks Paul,
No sir I didn't get those pieces. Do you still have the hatch covers lying around? I'm thinking I could add a hatch to both sides of that storage area inside. That way I can put stuff up under the casting deck as well.
~Edward
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Aquasport didn't put hatch covers on the square cut-out where speakers would naturally fit. They stretched a piece of canvas over the cut-out a secure them with a snap. I gave you the compartment covers. One had two hinges on it which was the top and the other piece had two teak knobs that turned and held it in place. You should have all those pieces - that is the area where I located my trolling motor batteries.
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Paul,
I found the compartment covers. I had put them in our storage container and forgot about them. My bad bro.
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Port side glassed. Went much smoother this time.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1625.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13012&title=img-1625&cat=500)
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You now have a clean solid canvas to create your masterpiece on now :bravo_2:
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Looking good Edward. 1708 came out nice.
Joel
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Hurry up fuel tank!!! Gonna take a break this week from the boat. Gotta ferry a plane down to Tampa tomorrow and won't be back to Macon till midnight then going fishin with my sweetie next weekend. When i get back I will finish out glassing in the transom and then I really need to lay everything out with string so i can get my placements just right. Hopefully my tank will be here in another week or so.
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Inside transom skin is complete. This transom is a beast.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image385.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13048&title=image385&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image390.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13053&title=image390&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image392.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13055&title=image392&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image391.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13054&title=image391&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image393.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13056&title=image393&cat=500)
Fuel tank came in too. 69 gallons.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image388.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13051&title=image388&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image387.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13050&title=image387&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image395.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13058&title=image395&cat=500)
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Looks good :thumleft:
Maybe you've done this already (if so excuse me), put some water in the hull and make sure where the pvc should be cut to allow all the water to drain. You don't want it ahead of the water.
BTW, I wish I would have done this on my rebuild - live and learn.
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Got the trailer on as level a surface as I could find and raised the jack to about where I would have it when stored in the shop. Put some water in and I got lucky cause all the water drained out perfectly!!
I spent the afternoon inside the hull brainstorming the layout. Decided I should put the casting deck in the boat temporarily to give myself some vision. It almost looks like the original sole height could still work but Im still going to notch my stringers so that the casting deck will fit without manipulating it and still raise my sole an inch or two to give plenty of room for fuel/vent lines and rigging tubes. Real happy that the front of the tank can go up under the casting deck with no problem. With regards to sole height, I'm not so much worried about self bailing all the time I will probably keep plugs in my scuppers and then pull them while underway. I'm working on getting it all played out with string. Open to any and all suggestions.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_17321.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13066&title=img-17321&cat=500)
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Got the trailer on as level a surface as I could find and raised the jack to about where I would have it when stored in the shop. Put some water in and I got lucky cause all the water drained out perfectly!!
:88):
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Do the stringers need to be contoured to the hull bottom or can they just be bedded in a bunch of epoxy? Got them built and started cutting just not sure how "fitted" they need to be before installing.
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Do the stringers need to be contoured to the hull bottom or can they just be bedded in a bunch of epoxy? Got them built and started cutting just not sure how "fitted" they need to be before installing.
They do not need to fit perfectly, the loads should be transferred from hull to stringer evenly, through the fiberglass. For this reason you do not want the stringers resting on just a couple places (hard spots). Ideally the stringers will have a slight and constant gap under them. Use tiny slivers of foam or mixing sticks to keep them from touching, build your fillet, then glass.
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They do not need to fit perfectly, the loads should be transferred from hull to stringer evenly, through the fiberglass. For this reason you do not want the stringers resting on just a couple places (hard spots). Ideally the stringers will have a slight and constant gap under them. Use tiny slivers of foam or mixing sticks to keep them from touching, build your fillet, then glass.
Joel,
How much do you think the expanding foam within the stringers helps to distribute the load and prevent damage due to localized hard spots where the stringers and hull meet? Obviously the higher the density foam, the greater the ability to distribute the load. Most often 4 lb density seems to be used for this. Just wondering because some folks seem to be going the route of thicker glass stringers with no foam. Also wondering because I didn't follow your approach with the gap, although I did lay a couple extra layers of 1708 under the edges of the stringers (only applies to the areas where I removed one side of the stringers around my gas tank).
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Joel
I have a question about keeping the stringers above the hull. If we keep them above the hull a 1/4" or so but them lay a fillet at the base does that create a "hard spot"
I was thinking that making sure the entire base of the stringer was bedded with no voids would distribute the loads over a larger area.
As always look forward to hearing your thoughts and advice.
Northfork
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Joel
I have a question about keeping the stringers above the hull. If we keep them above the hull a 1/4" or so but them lay a fillet at the base does that create a "hard spot"
I was thinking that making sure the entire base of the stringer was bedded with no voids would distribute the loads over a larger area.
As always look forward to hearing your thoughts and advice.
Northfork
even though you create a gap with shims, when you lay a fillet won't some creep under the stringer and create a hard spot?
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HawgLeg
That was what I was getting at.
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Hawgleg, what tank did you go with?
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Moeller FT6902-2 69 gal. 68Lx28.4Wx9.8H
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Thanks, a wee bit to wide for mine.
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They do not need to fit perfectly, the loads should be transferred from hull to stringer evenly, through the fiberglass. For this reason you do not want the stringers resting on just a couple places (hard spots). Ideally the stringers will have a slight and constant gap under them. Use tiny slivers of foam or mixing sticks to keep them from touching, build your fillet, then glass.
Joel,
How much do you think the expanding foam within the stringers helps to distribute the load and prevent damage due to localized hard spots where the stringers and hull meet? Obviously the higher the density foam, the greater the ability to distribute the load. Most often 4 lb density seems to be used for this. Just wondering because some folks seem to be going the route of thicker glass stringers with no foam. Also wondering because I didn't follow your approach with the gap, although I did lay a couple extra layers of 1708 under the edges of the stringers (only applies to the areas where I removed one side of the stringers around my gas tank).
with a fiberglass stringer, there are no hard spots.
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Joel
I have a question about keeping the stringers above the hull. If we keep them above the hull a 1/4" or so but them lay a fillet at the base does that create a "hard spot"
I was thinking that making sure the entire base of the stringer was bedded with no voids would distribute the loads over a larger area.
As always look forward to hearing your thoughts and advice.
Northfork
In theory the ideal stringer lamination to the hull has the stringer itself not touching the bottom, and the fillet not going under the stringer either. Now, that is composites textbook stuff, in practice a little fillet putty will certainly get under there and thats not a problem. The idea is that the stringer is bonded to the hull by the glass going up the sides (tabbing or overlaps), and not directly to the small bit of hull directly under the stringer. The more "high performance" the boat, the more this is important. With a flatback AS, its not so critical, but it is good practice to avoid hard spots in general. The other place to avoid hard spots is when you glass the sole/deck to the sides. We can start a new thread to discuss this more if you like....
Joel
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Thank you for that reply Joel.
That make sense to me now.
Chuck
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Look what I found in Apalach
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1807.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13125&title=img-1807&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_18081.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13126&title=img-18081&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_18091.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13127&title=img-18091&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_18101.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13128&title=img-18101&cat=500)
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Sweet :thumleft:
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What do yall think that boat draws?
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/570/68AS_all_models_price_options3_1971.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2825&title=as-all-models-price-options3-1971&cat=570)
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Ok I have the stringers built and in the boat ready to be tabbed in. Whew!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1754.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13147&title=img-1754&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1758.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13149&title=img-1758&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1755.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13148&title=img-1755&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_18261.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13143&title=img-18261&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_18271.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13144&title=img-18271&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_18281.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13145&title=img-18281&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_18301.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13150&title=img-18301&cat=500)
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Looks good - make sure you seal them up real well, you don't want to go through this again :thumleft:
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Will do Rick. Still have to flip them upside down again and seal the bottom. Would you put some cloth over the bottom or just seal them in with a coat or two of epoxy?
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Would you put some cloth over the bottom or just seal them in with a coat or two of epoxy?
a couple coats of epoxy.
Looks like you got a really nice fit. I like the little shim holding it up :thumright:
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Thanks Joel. Its just a left over 2x4 piece cut to 1/4"
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I'm reusing the original casting deck so I needed to cut a notch in my stringers to allow clearance. 31" in between the stringers gave me an inch or a little more around my tank. Now I'm figuring how I want to cradle my tank. The very front portion of the tank (about a foot) forward of the tie down will extend up under the casting deck.
The level is set on top of the stringer portion that will be under the casting deck.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1867.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13177&title=img-1867&cat=500)
I set the level on top of the stringer to show the bottom of the deck
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1868.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13178&title=img-1868&cat=500)
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looking good. Looks like you have plenty of room to mount the tank, but its strange the fill in not 90 degrees.
Tank should sit on strips of neoprene (high density neoprene made for tanks to rest on). You can make small frames to match the contour of the tank, then put the strips down. Tanks needed to be secured with brackets of some sort. I would probably glass something from stringer to stringer on either side of the ridges on the top of the tank. Also something on either end
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Thanks Joel,
I'm thinking of building my coffin very similar to Rick's with 3" PVC "middle stringer" and supports, neoprene strips atop those. I may rip them down more than half though so they will only add an inch or so in height. I agree it would be nicer if the fill was at a 90 deg. but I'm hoping the hose will have enough bend to not put stress on the doghouse. I need to make sure I can get my rigging tubes through the aft coffin bulkhead too. I'd like to use 3" for that.
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Looking good - one step close to our fishing trip.
:danceSm: :danceSm: :danceSm: :danceSm:
Paul
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Hope everyone had a great Christmas and a Happy New Year! Now that the holidays are over I have time to get back to work. Over the holidays I did get the bottom of my casting deck ground and put a layer of 1708 with epoxy on. I also enclosed the original compartment windows on the front with a couple layers of chop and a few layers of 1708 with poly using the same technique as my transom skin. Really excited to announce that Randy Dugger is currently fabricating my tower to the console I got from Panga.
My goal for the week is to finish my fuel tank coffin. I have two 10ft. 3" PVC pipes and I have enough 1/2" neoprene to do 3 supports. I'm at a brain block on what angle to cut my PVC in order to fully support my tank and not raise my tank too high. From my figuring it looks like the forward end of the center support will be 2" and the aft will be about 1/2". Any thoughts anyone?
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Hope everyone had a great Christmas and a Happy New Year! Now that the holidays are over I have time to get back to work. Over the holidays I did get the bottom of my casting deck ground and put a layer of 1708 with epoxy on. I also enclosed the original compartment windows on the front with a couple layers of chop and a few layers of 1708 with poly using the same technique as my transom skin. Really excited to announce that Randy Dugger is currently fabricating my tower to the console I got from Panga.
My goal for the week is to finish my fuel tank coffin. I have two 10ft. 3" PVC pipes and I have enough 1/2" neoprene to do 3 supports. I'm at a brain block on what angle to cut my PVC in order to fully support my tank and not raise my tank too high. From my figuring it looks like the forward end of the center support will be 2" and the aft will be about 1/2". Any thoughts anyone?
Randy has finished my seat and has the upholsterer working on the cushions - should get it this week. :danceSm: He'll do a good job for you.
The PVC I put under my tank was also at an angle and was tough to figure out. I started by splitting the PVC fuller than it need be and then kept cutting it down until I got it right. A belt sander helps here also.
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I think I understand what your trying to do.
One trick I have learned in making things fit is to use the shape your wanting a part to fit to as a "guide" So if you wanted a strips of PVC to fit to the hull so that when you lay your tank on them it sits on all of them flush, then I would hot glue (or tape) the PVC to the underside of the tank, lay it into the boat, trace the locations of the PVC, pull it out, glass PVC down. Should fit like a glove. Just have to account for a little extra glass thickness and the neoprene
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No I think he's putting the pvc against the fence on his table saw and cutting it on an angle because if you cut it down any other way the blade won't cut all the way through the pipe because the cut depth is too deep to reach across the diameter of the pipe.
Roll it over on a 15° and set your fence as close to the blade as you can get it without touching it that should give you a nice sliver of pipe a smaller angle will give you less pipe (making your support shorter) and a larger angle will give you more pipe (making it taller)
I have one question though? What's stopping you from ripping down a piece of 1 1/4" pipe or 2" pipe? That would give you the height and you would have a full diameter of pipe which I would think would be stronger? Your only in contact with the tank surface in one small area regardless of the radius so a larger pipe won't spread the load over a lager area of the tank?
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Where he is laying the PVC the hull starts dropping down to form the prow. I think that mine was about a half pipe at the rear and almost a full pipe at the front. If the boat is level you can use a level to measure the heights needed or you can measure down from the stringer tops. Either way it's a complicated cut for the center pipe. I marked the pipe and used a jigsaw.
You can see the difference in the pipe in this pic of my rebuild
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data//646/CIMG0723.JPG)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_17321.JPG)
Doesn't look like you have much room to raise the front of the tank up so it might be that you can't use 3" PVC unless you're only using the top 1/4 or 1/8 of it.
Just thinking aloud here... :think:
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Oh OK I see what you're saying.
Is it bad to have the back of the tank lower than the front though?
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I wouldn't think so - in fact I think you want it a tad lower so the gas keeps migrating that way toward the pickup.
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I had no idea you guys were commenting. I must have changed my setting to not send email alerts?
I got er done. First I ripped the pipe done to i think it was 2 1/4" which was my limiting height + neoprene to give my fuel fill enough clearance(still going to be tight). Then I used a multitool(very valuable tool) to trim and taper down to the smaller end, then a belt sander to make fine adjustments.
Now, bulkheads. With 3/4" ply would you glass both sides once they are fitted then tab them in OR tab them in and come back and cover them? I guess the latter would allow you to do wet on wet.
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Doesn't look like you have much room to raise the front of the tank up so it might be that you can't use 3" PVC unless you're only using the top 1/4 or 1/8 of it.
Just thinking aloud here... :think:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1868.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13178&title=img-1868&cat=500)
Not sure if you can see here but forward of the notch in the stringers there nearly 3" from the top of the tank to the top of the stringers. The tank tie down will be about 2" behind the notch. The supports only raised the front of the tank about 2 1/4" including the neoprene. I think it'll be dandy. I'm wondering if I should seal off the portion of tank up under the casting deck or if it'll be ok exposed.
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Are you talking about putting a bulkhead in in front? If so, yes. You want to make sure the tank can't break loose and slide forward - one in the aft too, just make sure to leave 1-2% room for expansion after it gets a full tank in her.
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BH forward and aft of tank of course with room for expansion. What I was asking is would you glass a panel above the tank from the notch in the stringers to the forward bulkhead? This would completely seal the tank coffin.
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I don't see a reason to. Will you have access to the area in front of the forward BH?
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Well I'm planning on having about a 6-8 inch hole on either side of the front of the casting deck for speakers but other than that I havnt found a need.
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Got the forward and aft bulkheads for the tank coffin cut and fitted last week. Still have to cap the stringers before I install the bulkheads. Had to order a few more gallons of epoxy that should be able to do the rest of the bulkheads, knees,and hopefully the closed transom. This weekend I cut my transom cap piece and made a form to screw it to. I had enough epoxy to lay 2 layers of 1708 to the bottom of the transom cap.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_1994.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13473&title=img-1994&cat=500)
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Just got some pics from Randy. Progress is looking real sweet! Its gonna look awesome with the black powder coat contrasted against the white hull. :thumleft:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2004.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13484&title=img-2004&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2005.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13485&title=img-2005&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2003.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13483&title=img-2003&cat=500)
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Looking good Edward. :thumleft:
I don't think I could get in the upper station unless you're using the place you'd normally put the lower station steering for a step - towers are for young people I guess :laugh03:
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Man - that thing is going to be amazing! :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
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Got my bow eye installed. Built the block out of some composite i got from Mcmasters. I didn't get a pic of the eye in place but it has about 3/4" of thread to engage.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2050.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13528&title=img-2050&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2052.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13529&title=img-2052&cat=500)
Randy's masterpiece :great02:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2046.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13527&title=img-2046&cat=500)
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Wow - a stealth tower :whistle: :whistle:
Randy mentioned something about folding?
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that console looks a little familiar :think: :tu4:
i like the black tower :thumleft:
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is it too late to get my old boat back? :scrHead:
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Yep it folds
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image397.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13533&title=image397&cat=500)
Finally got some bulkheads in. Gotta get some more 1708
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image396.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13532&title=image396&cat=500)k
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Nice :thumleft:
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that console looks a little familiar :think: :tu4:
i like the black tower :thumleft:
yessir I liked the way yours worked out. He told me the black powder coat didn't get stovetop hot in the sun so I said lets do it!
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Can't wait til I get that far along! Looks great
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I can't make up my mind on whether or not to pour foam in between the bulkheads outside the stringers. Haven't seen many on here do that.
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I can't make up my mind on whether or not to pour foam in between the bulkheads outside the stringers. Haven't seen many on here do that.
Yea I was wondering the same thing with my build, I might just because of the added stability/strength but I also like knowing it would be clean without it lol.
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I opted not to so I can add additional storage later down the road
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starboard side BHs cut and fitted. Still have to sleeve the limber holes but they will get tabbed in tonight.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2061.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13541&title=img-2061&cat=500)
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Nevermind...too friggin cold. I can heat up the shop but I don't think I can keep it warm enough for a full 24 hours with the temps we've got for the next couple of days. :91:
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Lookin good! Yea been a bitch glassing down here too believe it or not :roll:
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next week looks like good temps for glassin
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Ive already made my transom cap but I need some help on how to go about closing in the transom, when the time comes. The way Im seeing it I can either:
1. Attach the cap to the top of the transom, glass in to the transom and hull sides, then cut and fit the cabinet bulkhead. I would then have to cut out the hatch windows and glass the cap to the bulkhead while inside the cabinet and upside down.
2. Install the transom cap and cabinet bulkhead as one piece already glassed together. Id still have to work inside the cabinet but not so much upside down.
Anybody have any guidance on this? Am I even thinking about this the right way?
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Ive already made my transom cap but I need some help on how to go about closing in the transom, when the time comes. The way Im seeing it I can either:
1. Attach the cap to the top of the transom, glass in to the transom and hull sides, then cut and fit the cabinet bulkhead. I would then have to cut out the hatch windows and glass the cap to the bulkhead while inside the cabinet and upside down.
2. Install the transom cap and cabinet bulkhead as one piece already glassed together. Id still have to work inside the cabinet but not so much upside down.
Anybody have any guidance on this? Am I even thinking about this the right way?
Either way youre gonna be glassing in there... Are you gonna flip the hull over for any bottom work?? If so, id glass all your outside tabs (and the bottom inside where bulkhead meets deck) before the flip then crawl under there and do the inside tabbing while upside down.
If no flip, id build as one piece cap and bulkhead. Then you've got the transom/cap connection to tab (and sides/bottom obviously) and when youre laying on your back your work wont be DIRECTLY over your face as it would be if you were tabbing cap to bulkhead :2Cents: :mrgreen:
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Thanks DW. Im gonna source out the bottom and have it gel coated and he said he probably won't flip it. So option two it is.
epoxy in the face=no good. Got a little in my mouth the other night when I put a dip in and man its got some bite :laugh03:
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Ive already made my transom cap but I need some help on how to go about closing in the transom, when the time comes. The way Im seeing it I can either:
1. Attach the cap to the top of the transom, glass in to the transom and hull sides, then cut and fit the cabinet bulkhead. I would then have to cut out the hatch windows and glass the cap to the bulkhead while inside the cabinet and upside down.
2. Install the transom cap and cabinet bulkhead as one piece already glassed together. Id still have to work inside the cabinet but not so much upside down.
Anybody have any guidance on this? Am I even thinking about this the right way?
Having done it both ways, I would personally prefer option 2. I have had epoxy get just about everywhere except my eyes and mouth, there have been some very close calls though :afraid:
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This is really gonna be a tight fit. I hope the hose has enough bend but we shall see...
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image398.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13609&title=image398&cat=500)
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Nice bluesea switch panel came off the old console. I'll put it on the bench tomorrow at work and load test the breakers. If all checks good then I can rewire.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image399.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13610&title=image399&cat=500)
Also got some new goodies in the mail today. Two Twin S's
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image400.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13611&title=image400&cat=500)
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Thought this might be helpful for anybody who needs to see a diagram for the S or Twin S
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image401.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13612&title=image401&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image402.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13613&title=image402&cat=500)
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I saw your tower in person yesterday - really nice. You'll need some bath tub non-skid strips on the ladder portions though.
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I believe shields makes a more flexible fuel fill hose, I have used it before and I think it will make that bend so long as there is not another bend close by.
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I believe shields makes a more flexible fuel fill hose, I have used it before and I think it will make that bend so long as there is not another bend close by.
Joel,
Is this the one your talking about? Looks pricey...
Fire – Acol – “C” Fuel Fill Hose – Series No. 351
http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/351.jpg
Size Range – 1 1/2″ 38.1mm Warranty – Limited Lifetime
Shields Fire – Acol – “C” Fuel Fill Hose resists gasoline/alcohol blends and has a corrugated cover for extra flexibility. This hose is compounded for low permeation and is reinforced with a wire helix imbedded between plies of HD synthetic cord. It is also abrasion resistant. This hose is primarily used for extra flexible fuel fill ( gas or diesel ) and is for pleasure boats only. The temperature range is -5ºF to 180ºF. It meets SAE J1527 type A2 and ISO 7840 type A2 NMMA/CE Type Accepted standards. Get More Info…
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The regular Shields fill line is probably flexible enough for that run, as long as it's new and not a used piece that's being reused...
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Just got back in town with the tower and console. Randy did an awesome job. 12 hours of driving today...probably should have just had it shipped. I couldn't stand it any longer haha
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Made my tank tie downs out of some scrap from my stringers. Extra beefy! Still gotta seal them all over them I'm going to add 1/8" neoprene to the bottom sides and 1/16" to the sides. The tie downs will be fastened with through bolted Aluminum brackets.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2161.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13682&title=img-2161&cat=500)
1/8" neoprene on bottom
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2163.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13683&title=img-2163&cat=500)
1/16" neoprene for sides
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2165.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13684&title=img-2165&cat=500)
I also got to work on the knees and transom cap.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2176.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13685&title=img-2176&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2181.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13686&title=img-2181&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2182.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13687&title=img-2182&cat=500)
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Looks good ... and stout is a understatement for those cross members :shocked:
Make sure you leave a little bit of room (more than the neoprene) for upward expansion. It supposedly takes up to 45 days for these tanks to expand when full of gas (remember that its a chemical reaction). The built-in blocks of the tank are pretty high so maybe lay a 1/4" piece of something down and then your cross members?
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Thanks Rick. Yea I'm considering the expansion. You think 1/4"? What about width within the blocks do you think that will change any?
Still waiting on my bait well... :38:
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Looking great! The poly tanks will expand up to 2% in all directions, so multiply each dimension (height, width, and length) by 1.02 and make sure you leave enough room for that growth.
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Got some boat porn for you guys. I put the tower and console in the boat to check it out. :13:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image404.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13700&title=image404&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_21901.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13703&title=img-21901&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image406.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13702&title=image406&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2193.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13704&title=img-2193&cat=500)
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Looks great :thumleft:
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Looks so good it brings a tear to my eye.
:03: :03: :03: :03: :03: :03: :03:
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looks awesome!!
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^^x2!
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Thanks guys! Still chipping away at things to complete below deck. I have a few questions that Ive done research on here and the net but am not decided enough to make definitive action yet. It would be a lot easier to make these decisions if I actually had my baitwell but the guy I'm dealing with is taking his sweet :*: time and won't answer calls or work with me.
At this point I don't know how many and what size hoses the tank is fitted for. I have two 800GPH Tsunamis to run the well. Went with tsunami cause they can be found at wallyworld in a pinch and they're cheap( can always upgrade later). I can add another pump if y'all think I need to but the tank is rated to 1100. I like the way Aaron constructed his manifold and would like to do it that way. I guess my question is: To feed the one 43Gal bait well with two 800GPH pumps(on separate switches), what diameter should the manifold be and also what diameter for the high speed pickup, ball valve, strainer? I also don't know where the overflow/s will be located.
Question for Aaron:
Are you liking your manifold system through the one pickup and with the strainer? Plenty flow?
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so far my system is working well, and can have all 3 800gph pumps going and have plenty of flow, and i have both wells drain into a single 1-1/2 inch drain and have had no issues with drain flow either. on any given day ill normally have 2 pumps running at once, one for each well, the only time ill ever have the 3 pump going is if my main well is blacked out.
most 800gph pumps have 3/4 inch inlets and outlets. for plumbing both pumps on one thru-hull, id go with 1-1/4 inch sized plumping, pickup, valve, strainer, and T's and 90's with 1-1/4 to 3/4 reducer bushings. for the drain, a single 1-1/2 inch drain is fine. try to get the drain as close to the waterline as you can. i waited until my deck and transom well was in to put the drains in as i was unsure exactly how high i could get it. ad put a valve on the drain thru-hull too
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Thanks Aaron. That helped me a bunch!
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I need some help with planning my scupper set up. I raised the deck 4 inches. No idea where the water line will be when she's rigged and the motor is hung. Ya'll think I would be safe with the transom scuppers an inch lower than the deck scuppers? This is a newbie question but is it just a hose that connects the deck scupper to the transom thru hull?
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Hey there, not sure I follow your question. What's the difference between what you call a deck scupper and a transom scupper? When I drilled the holes for my scuppers I got them as low as I could get them based on the floor of the boat.
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Hey there, not sure I follow your question. What's the difference between what you call a deck scupper and a transom scupper? When I drilled the holes for my scuppers I got them as low as I could get them based on the floor of the boat.
By deck scupper I mean the thru hull at the face of the cabinet/false bulkhead
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A picture would help, but in general you need the transom thru-hull (scupper) lower than the deck fitting. It is also advisable to keep your scupper above the water line if possible to minimize the potential for water to enter when you back a trailered boat down a ramp or get hit with a following wave, or if the hose should ever break while unattended. So I would mount the scupper as high as possible while maintaining a negative slope in the hose. That is what I plan to do on mine, but I am using deck drains instead of going through the vertical cabinet wall.
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Look at Aaron's rebuild - it shows his scupper arrangement with the hose between them.
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i think my transom scuppers are an inch lower than the deck scuppers. maybe 1-1/2 inch, i dont remember. between that and there's a good downward flow to them thanks to the drain trough they sit in, its about one of the best draining boats in my marina.
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i think my transom scuppers are an inch lower than the deck scuppers. maybe 1-1/2 inch, i dont remember. between that and there's a good downward flow to them thanks to the drain trough they sit in, its about one of the best draining boats in my marina.
Thanks. I'd like to figure out how to create a trough without having to cut into my stringers. It would be nice. What size scuppers did you go with?
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Got the rigging tubes in
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2233.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13747&title=img-2233&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2237.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13748&title=img-2237&cat=500)
Got the tank back in the coffin and laid out the tie down and the brackets. Still have to glue the neoprene to the tie downs and mount the aluminum brackets but that is almost complete. I sat the casting deck back in the bow and it fits within my stringer notches perfectly. I have it set up on top of the stringers for now while I'm messing with the tank. Also have to attach a drain hose to the fish box that will attach to a thru hull on the face of the casting deck so it can drain onto the sole and out the scuppers.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2238.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13749&title=img-2238&cat=500)
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Nice clean work :salut2:
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The foam came in. It is 2.2 lb Polyethylene. The plan is to fill the voids between bulkheads with layers. If I want to add storage down the road it should be easy enough to pull out. Should reduce hull slap and will definitely give me peace of mind. It should only add about 80 or so pounds to the boat. I will have to sit down and do some calcs to see if I'll be positively buoyant but hey somethin is better than nothin right. I had constructed a hot knife to cut my shapes but then I found it was much easier to cut with an old chef knife we keep at the shop. Sharpened it up real good and it cut like butter. There is already a "skin" on the faces of the planks. I experimented with our heat gun and I can create that same skin on the sides as well so It should be all sealed up.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2256.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13766&title=img-2256&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2257.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13767&title=img-2257&cat=500)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2262.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13768&title=img-2262&cat=500)
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I'm trying to plumb the overflow and drain together to flow out of one 1 1/2" thru transom. I have a few ideas but has anyone got a tried and true method? The drain is a 1 1/2" hose barb and the overflow is a 1 1/2" female threaded.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2319.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13967&title=img-2319&cat=500)
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You need one of these.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=11873&familyName=Midland+Metal+Mfg+Male+Hose%2FBarb+Pipe+Adapters
One of these.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=13764&familyName=White+Nylon+Hose+Barb+T-Fittings
Several of these.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1718
A length of this.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4133&familyName=Shields+White+Sanitation+VAC+Heavy+Duty+Hose
And one of these to control flow selection.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4228&familyName=Forespar+Marelon+Y-Valves
Good luck. :thumright:
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Thanks Capt Bob!
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Now that I look closer, you won't need the T. Access to the valve is the key. You may mount it close to the discharge to have the access so that will increase hose quantity cost.
Post a few pics when you get it plumbed.
Good luck. :thumright:
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Very rewarding feeling to have the deck pieces cut and in the boat. Now gotta get the bottom sides glassed and add the reinforcements for my tower and I'll be cookin! I hope my hatches get here this week so I can go ahead and cut the holes in the transom cabinet and my console.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2358.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13998&title=img-2358&cat=500)
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It's a great feeling to have the sole in the boat, even if it's a dry fit :dancing:
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I had to order more 1708 for the deck. In the meantime I went ahead and started working on the cap and adding core to the console. (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2365.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14057&title=img-2365&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2366.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14058&title=img-2366&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2364.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14056&title=img-2364&cat=500)
I also added a short pice of 1" PVC to the keel channel drain so I can stop the flow of bilge water from going forward.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2362.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14054&title=img-2362&cat=500)
Here is a shot of the PVC bilge drain. The bilge is faired and sanded ready for bilgekote.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2363.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14055&title=img-2363&cat=500)
Here are a couple shots of the casting deck installed. The compartment at the rear of the casting deck was originally two part. One hatch on the face that was secured at each side with teak knobs and then a hatch that sat on top with hinges. I raised my stringers a good bit so I had to notch the stringers in order to use the original casting deck as is. I attached the "face" hatch permanently with epoxy and built up the drip channels and sanded so they will run onto the deck. This should eliminate some rattling and will also make a smooth uniform look all the way across the face of the casting deck as soon as I grind fill and fair the seams. 6" speakers will be installed on both sides where I filled in the compartment holes.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2361.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14053&title=img-2361&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2369.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14059&title=img-2369&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2370.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14060&title=img-2370&cat=500)
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Looks Great HL !!
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Got everything finished below deck and I got it down glued and screwed!! :72:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2428.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14176&title=img-2428&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2393.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14175&title=img-2393&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2430.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14177&title=img-2430&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2439.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14179&title=img-2439&cat=500)
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:whistle: :whistle: A HUGE milestone.
What is the black object across from the pumps?
Great and clean work HL :nSalute:
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What is the black object across from the pumps?
It is a 1 1/2" valve that will allow me to control drain and overflow from the bait well thru the bilge bulkhead and out the transom.
I need to find a 1 1/2" nipple to make this work. Haven't had much luck yet...
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2432.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14180&title=img-2432&cat=500)
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Looking good. Is that regular PVC feeding your pumps? That looks like quite a bit of weight cantilevered off your thruhull pickup. Generally speaking, PVC below the waterline is not recommended.
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It's all sched 40 and I supported with zips to the rigging tube. I agree that it may not be the absolute best option but it is very solid and supported. It can be inspected easily and can be replaced in the future with ought to much trouble if need be
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It's obviously your call, but when it breaks, it will most likely break at the elbow. Which means you will have a large non-isolable hole below the waterline. I would go with Marelon (like your 3-way valve) or bronze or something rated for below the waterline at least up to (and including) the valve. Again, it is up to you, but you are doing a great job on the rebuild, and I would hate to see an unfortunate and preventable event ruin the finished product.
Note: I don't mean to cast any negativity on your project, just offering an opinion. You are doing a fantastic job. Keep it up!
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I agree with Craig;
1) You are doing a great job
2) No PVC! Hate to see it on the bottom
If you plan on insuring the boat, I highly recommend a marine survey. Won't get a clean bill of health with the PVC. You will sleep better at night with no PVC.
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This is why I have you guys! Thanks for the pump-ups and for the wisdom. I too do not want to see her on the bottom because that likely means my shipmates and I will be swimming with the sharks. Don't think this will be difficult to correct.
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I started fairing in the face of the casting deck. Ive already sanded it some but i got a little more to go this evening so I'll get pics up of the finished product later.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2450.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14219&title=img-2450&cat=500)
AND...I picked up my Yamaha this morning!!!
I'll keep it in shipping/storage mode until I'm ready to hang which hopefully won't be too long
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2452.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14221&title=img-2452&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2451.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14220&title=img-2451&cat=500)
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What is the black object across from the pumps?
It is a 1 1/2" valve that will allow me to control drain and overflow from the bait well thru the bilge bulkhead and out the transom.
I need to find a 1 1/2" nipple to make this work. Haven't had much luck yet...
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2432.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14180&title=img-2432&cat=500)
I think you need to do a little more research on your plumbing... this valve isn't an on/off valve, its a diverter. I have the same thing ON my livewell... you should have a Seacock (ball valve) for this (as it is at an entry point on your hull). this would not allow you to shut off water flow completely in the event you have a leak/break somewhere.
the rest of your work looks great- would hate for something to happen because of incorrect parts that could have easily been swapped/avoided. NO rigid PVC on your water lines... the small/constant vibrations will cause as much havoc on all your connections and eventually leaks/breaks. flexible hosing with 2 hose clamps- fastened in opposite directions is the only way to go.
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I think you need to do a little more research on your plumbing... this valve isn't an on/off valve, its a diverter. I have the same thing ON my livewell... you should have a Seacock (ball valve) for this (as it is at an entry point on your hull). this would not allow you to shut off water flow completely in the event you have a leak/break somewhere.
He will still need a raw water pick up (or not) as a water supply. I don't believe the intent is to use it in lieu of a seacock. I believe this is used to either fill (downstream of the seacock) or drain (upstream of the thu hull drain). :ScrChin:
I may be wrong though.
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I recommend that the intake and the overflow drain both have a seacock. They should be bronze and have a stainless handle. These are not the parts you want to save money on, buy the quality seacocks and you won't have to replace them. :idea:
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I think you need to do a little more research on your plumbing... this valve isn't an on/off valve, its a diverter. I have the same thing ON my livewell... you should have a Seacock (ball valve) for this (as it is at an entry point on your hull). this would not allow you to shut off water flow completely in the event you have a leak/break somewhere.
He will still need a raw water pick up (or not) as a water supply. I don't believe the intent is to use it in lieu of a seacock. I believe this is used to either fill (downstream of the seacock) or drain (upstream of the thu hull drain). :ScrChin:
I may be wrong though.
agreed Bob,,, from what I was reading and seeing- I think he intends this to be on the drain side of the system.
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Let me see if I can clear things up a bit. The forespar diverter is to A) allow me to...essentially shut off the drain until I need it. It will mostly stay on the overflow side. B) it will allow me to have only one 1 1/2" bulkhead fitting. A hose will attach to the bulkhead fitting, to a seacock, to the thru hull out the transom.
As far as the pump manifold goes... I hear yall and am making adjustments.
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gotcha- more like an inline option for which part of the livewell you get drainage from- which will then lead to the main lead out the transom for drainage.
I have my overflow drain feed into a T-fitting that is inline with the bottom (end of day) drain in my livewell, that way, I never have to worry about the livewell overflowing even if the drain pipe (mine is the hollow drain pipe with a screen on top) gets clogged. I'm a big fan of "easier is better" when it comes to variables on boats.
Transom 1 1/2" bronze thru-hull with a Marlon ballvalve threaded onto it (allows an unbreakable exterior piece- and a sure "water stop" attached to it- with flexible 1 1/2" hose attached to that:
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/04E52875-EFF3-42D5-9D0C-C620F08D47DA-7003-0000058656A353A1_zps929a235d.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/04E52875-EFF3-42D5-9D0C-C620F08D47DA-7003-0000058656A353A1_zps929a235d.jpg.html)
this left hose is the overflow drain that is built into the livewell, it feeds down through the deck to a T fitting:
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture014.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/Picture014.jpg.html)
here you can see the main plug pipe that has a screen fitting at the top for additional "overflow". I have 2 different length drain pipes for the livewell to control water levels depending of type of bait I am using. (drain is to the right, the center circle is a livewell light)
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture013.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/Picture013.jpg.html)
both the above deck hose from the first picture of the livewell and the "bottom" drain connect here at this T and flow out to the first picture.
(http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr128/beachbound23/Picture012-1.jpg) (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/beachbound23/media/Picture012-1.jpg.html)
not sure exactly what your livewell setup will be- but if it's similar, this is pretty simple and doesn't leave much room for error or things to go wrong.
additional tip- some thru-hulls have a slightly different thread than what would seem to be matching ball valves or seacocks. make sure you get the right threads on your components.
not busting balls btw,,, just offering advice
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additional tip- some thru-hulls have a slightly different thread than what would seem to be matching ball valves or seacocks. make sure you get the right threads on your components.
Yup, some are tapered, some are straight thread.
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Haven't pre-drilled the holes through the deck and my tower brackets yet. I'm taking my time to make sure I get em right. Depending on what I have going on tomorrow evening I may glass the bait well in.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2461.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14259&title=img-2461&cat=500)
I'll cut the boxes to the right angle once the glass cures.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2468.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14257&title=img-2468&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2469.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14258&title=img-2469&cat=500)
Lots of sanding left but I might be painting next week...
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are you going to put the liner back in on the sides?
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are you going to put the liner back in on the sides?
After some debate and the decision to paint the boat rather than gelcoat, I opted to not put the liner sides back in. I think it gives a little more room under the gunwales and saves a good bit of time and material. I'm not going for the super slick showroom paint job. This is gonna be a high tech utility boat.
Paul, can you PM me your phone number or call me when you get a chance. The number I have for you is not working.
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Been a while since I posted but I got her primed this week. :88):
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2622.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14439&title=img-2622&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2621.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14438&title=img-2621&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2599.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14437&title=img-2599&cat=500)
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:thumright:
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Dude - It looks great. You're doing everything I had wanted to do but didn't have the time or shop to work in.
:08:
Paul Greenspan
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Yup, nice work. Shop would have been a plus for me too. Maybe I could have rented one based on the money I spent on tarps..... :73:
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Having the shop that I could heat up a little in the cold so I could keep going and also keep everything dry has been a game changer. I'm pretty sure my dad is ready for me to be done so can clean up all my :*:!
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Been busy...heres a post up of my progress
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2640.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14484&title=img-2640&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_26471.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14485&title=img-26471&cat=500)
Took the boat on the open road to hang the motor at work.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2700.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14488&title=img-2700&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2702.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14489&title=img-2702&cat=500)
Back at home..
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_27111.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14493&title=img-27111&cat=500)(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_27071.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14492&title=img-27071&cat=500)
Still have to paint the outside
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_27041.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14490&title=img-27041&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_2667.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14487&title=img-2667&cat=500)
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That thing looks awesome. Love that tower.
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SWEET!
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Drilling the 10x 1/2" holes for the Porta bracket was...get it right or...
Everything went well and got all holes drilled exactly perpendicular. I'm at the keys now drinking lobstering and getting over it :49:
I get to do the stuff I'm really good at when I get home.
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Yes I remember drilling those holes. Was not fun at all. Glad everything went smoothly for you also. If your in the keys with your Aquasport make sure to post a bunch of pictures of it in the water.
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yes, those holes... especially if you have to reach behind a livewell to reach the nuts...
what height did you mount it from the keel to center top bolt on the porta bracket?
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Wish I was in the keys with my Aquasport...
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Awesome work! Looks very clean. I love how the spray rail runs all the way to the transom.
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Dude . . . DUDE . . . DUDE. That thing looks amazing. Brought a tear to my eye.
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Thanks! She looks good. I pray she rides good.
Aaron, my transom is 30" and my top bolt for the bracket is at 26" from the keel
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I have a question about venting my batteries inside the console. What are some options via battery boxes that vent to the outside of the console? Sure i can always just add a louvered vent near the top of the console ,but for looks sake I would rather not.
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Ahem..... what are you trying to say?
:86:
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Ahem..... what are you trying to say?
:86:
Dude what I'm saying is, Your console looks bad arse and your vents fit perfect with your setup.
On planes we vent to the belly, generally. I'm kinda thinking a flush mount vent on the side of the console that vents from enclosed boxes. Similar to my tank vent on the side of the hull. But in the event water gets high inside...battery box gets filled with water...bilge pump stops...so maybe this idea is a dud. God forbid this event ever happens but Murphy's law right? If it can it might
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I was only pulling your chain ;-)
I thought about a PC fan or two in the console on the inside blowing out but that takes constant power. When my boat is done I will put the original cover back on and this time add solar powered vents into the canvas to pull the heat and the fumes out. I haven't tried them yet but it sounds like a plan.
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That's a neat idea!
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Anybody know where on this earth I can find the hydraulic steering hoses I need. I didn't realize until I got to this point that the kit I ordered did not have the bulkhead hoses that fit my application. I am running the Seastar Pro 2.0 helms and cylinder with kevlar reinforced hoses. I have 3 choices but only two have the stainless fitting that I want. The two choices are:
This is my most preferred option
SeaStar Single Stainless Steel Pro Bulkhead Hose Kit (2 hoses):HO87XX
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/HO86XX-01.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14514&title=ho86xx-01&cat=500)
OR
SeaStar Double Stainless Steel Pro Bulkhead Hose Kit (2 hoses): HO89XX
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/HO88XX-01.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14515&title=ho88xx-01&cat=500)
I can't find where I can purchase these anywhere online and the dealers in my area don't know what I need or can't order them.
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I got my steering lines made at a Goodyear rubber shop in Bradenton/St Pete... and they actually had the rubber "renforcement" fittings available in house. I can get you the number to those if you want to order them.
Also, the Uflex website has them for order also. just need the length as the support sleeve goes on before the end fittings.
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Teleflex-SeaStar-Double-Stainless-Steel-16-Hose-with-Bulkhead-Fitting-HO8816-MD-/121756427705?hash=item1c593fa5b9:g:eZsAAOSw3mpXK9GX&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HF5516-Teleflex-SeaStar-Hydraulic-Steering-Bulkhead-Pigtail-Hose-Fitting-/301995675721?hash=item4650585049:g:OIQAAOSw-4BXbbSK&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TELEFLEX-BULKHEAD-SEASTAR-HYDRAULIC-STEERING-FITTING-KIT-HF5512-MARINE-BOAT-/221138666861?hash=item337ce4456d
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L2F,
Thanks. I have seastar pro helms. Doesn't mean I have to run Kevlar hoses but that's what is highly recommended. On top of that, I need 18'. None to be found on the net so it must be special order. The part number I need is HO8718
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whats the thinking behind them requiring kevlar? The hoses I have are 5,000psi, but I think most marine hydraulic lines are only 2,000psi. Only problem Ive had with mine is from the welder heating them up too much but thats another story.
I just did a basic seach of marine hydraulic bulkhead fittings" and those popped up, there are tons of other lengths and options available.
My thinking on them is- hose runs from your helm back to the transom- to a fitting that basically is a rigid connector piece that is the width of the transom- then another hose from that fitting to the cylinder on your motor. (I think thats how people do it)
So with that in mind- you could have your hose be whatever length you needed and use the rubber grommets at the inside and outside ends of the transom wall connection.
Have you contacted a local hydraulic shop? They should be able to get you what you need. They probably even have "marine grade" as the shop I used had.
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I agree, no need to use the seastar fittings really. Hydraulic shop should be able to get bulkhead fittings to fit the seastar hoses from the helm, and then make some for the bulkhead fitting to the motor. Their bulkhead fittings will look different than the ones above but...
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She's finally on the water. Took her to the lake for a test run with my pup then hauled her down to Apalachicola last week and the weather was perfect for breaking in the motor and doing some fishing. Still have some adjustments to make but for the most part everything worked as planned. We parked her out in front of the house on the sand bar for some pictures. It was about 1.5 ft. and she floated just fine with the motor up. probably draws 6" at the stern while anchored but not sure how much at the bow. She handles really well regardless of how much gas is in the tank and whether or not the 43 gal bait well is loaded. Gonna run to walmart and grab some of those rubber kayak plugs for the scuppers. They fit perfect and they're cheap. Ahhhh it feels good to have the shop cleaned out and another project in the books! Gonna be a great boat and I can't wait to get back out and load her with the meat.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3067.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14710&title=img-3067&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_30751.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14713&title=img-30751&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3073.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14712&title=img-3073&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3072.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14711&title=img-3072&cat=500)
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She looks mighty fine HL. :bravo_2:
Anything left to be done? Have pics of the inside?
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heck yeah! looks awesome!
black rub rail?
tip- when I put the seat on my upper station, after a while, the screws would start to back out. either put a dab of some 4200 on the tip before you screw them in, or, I put a small fender washer and a split water on the screw head. puts just enough tension on the screw to hold it in.
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Thanks. I gotta install rub rail(black- not sure which one fits best), kiwi grip the whole deck and transom cap, courtesy lights( leds under gunnel cap), and install stern light on the top. Gotta finish out the hatch covers on the casting deck and install rod holders in the cap. I met the deadline of our family vacation(and we had a blast on the boat) so now I can take my time and save some cash for the extra items. Having no rub rail is a PITA when pulling in a net full of pogeys. I didn't booger up my net though. I'll get you guys some interior pics as soon as I get some time back in the shop.
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Looks awesome, congrats! A black rub rail will look great.
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i too think black would look best. i used mine for a little bit w/o a rub rail and it was sometimes a PITA getting the net back in the boat. i ripped a hole in my brand new net and a week later the rub rail was on the boat LOL
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Aaron,
What style rub rail did you put on your flatback?
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Awesome build! Bet it feels great to see her on the water. You're inspirational to the rest of us slogging away on our builds. :salut2:
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Looks fantastic. My vote if fora black rubrail as well. Cute pup too!
I'd suggest you take a look at the Flo-Max Scupper balls.... no need to mess with the scupper plugs.
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:great02:
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Still working on getting interior pics. I haven't had a second to go visit with her since I put her up. Forgot to mention...and I regret not getting a pic, but I had a real nice fella backing his 24' Attwood down right next to my 22-2 last week in Apalach. I knew the reader's digest version of the history with these two but he knew a lot. I felt like a rockstar at the ramp with all the old salts coming over to check her out and giving thumbs up!
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Beauty!
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Aaron,
What style rub rail did you put on your flatback?
i believe this is where i ordered mine from. if you order 70 ft, you'll have about 8 ft left over if you wrap it all the way around the transom
http://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetail.php?prod=BP_1235_blk_roll
http://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetail.php?prod=BP_8178
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Looks good! 👍
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Hey guys,
I need to make a prop change on my F200. My in town dealer set me up with a 14.5 diameter 16 pitch 4-blade Power Tech. The boat accelerates well out of the hole but vibrates pretty violently until on plane. I called Power Tech and he remembered talking with my dealer and the details of my boat. His calculator told him this was the prop I needed. At WOT I am only achieving 4800 RPM and about 38 MPH. My throttle connection at the motor is correct and travels stop to stop. The PT dealer says those number show 90%. She does have a nice smooth cruise at 4400 RPM and about 28 MPH. I need some other opinions because I don't know what kind of calculator he's using. I was thinking realistically mid 40s at WOT. Cant afford to hurt this motor...
Thanks,
Edward
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At 4800 RPMs you are not achieving the top RPMs, based on that prop you need to go down in pitch. But I believe that motor should be able to handle more pitch. Aaron is running a 17P Enertia Eco on his flatback with only 150 hp. Have your reached out to Ken at Prop Gods?
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I agree it sounds like you have too much prop. Also where is the anti cavitation plate riding while on a plane? It should be on top of the water. Also you want to confirm your tach is reading right.
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Hey guys,
I need to make a prop change on my F200. My in town dealer set me up with a 14.5 diameter 16 pitch 4-blade Power Tech. The boat accelerates well out of the hole but vibrates pretty violently until on plane. I called Power Tech and he remembered talking with my dealer and the details of my boat. His calculator told him this was the prop I needed. At WOT I am only achieving 4800 RPM and about 38 MPH. My throttle connection at the motor is correct and travels stop to stop. The PT dealer says those number show 90%. She does have a nice smooth cruise at 4400 RPM and about 28 MPH. I need some other opinions because I don't know what kind of calculator he's using. I was thinking realistically mid 40s at WOT. Cant afford to hurt this motor...
Thanks,
Edward
something is strange for sure, those numbers are way off. im turning a large 16x17p with my 150 and bottom paint and have been able to get 5600 rpm 42 mph and turning 3600 doing 28 mph... are you running with the porta bracket all the way down or are you raising it up after your on plane? just raising the motor an inch or 2 can bring the rpm up a couple hundred. also, which powertech prop are you turning?
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Looked back at the part number because I wanted to confirm what I told y'all was correct. The prop is a PTZ4R15P which means it is actually 14.25" diameter and 15 pitch.
Aaron, I was running the bracket as high as I felt safe for the motor ( until the water pressure sensor I ordered comes in). Cavitation plate is above water on plane. I installed a Yamaha 6YC display so all engine data that I'm reading would presumably be as accurate as it can be. Wile at WOT, I've fine tuned motor height and trim in fresh and salt water, full tank to 1/4 full, live well full and empty, passengers on board and by myself. Your obviously running much more prop than I am and if anything I would think with 50hp more I could turn a little more pitch than your prop.
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Did you ever get your prop issues straightened out?
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Feels like forever since Ive been on the forum. Ive been out enjoying my boat. I have plenty of little projects left to do on her (rubrail being priority). So far my numbers are 5000 WOT 45 MPH. Best cruise is about 3200 at 28-32 MPH getting 5.5 MPG and GPH. That's a lot of range with 69 gallons on board. She definitely performs better loaded down rather than with just me and the wife with not a lot of fuel. Trim tabs come into play when I'm under a 1/3 of the fuel tank. The F200 gives me plenty of power where I need it. Still havn't put her on a scale.
One thing I wish I had done is a water trough at the transom. I use kayak scupper plugs and they work great but it takes a little work to get all of the water out the back. Not a one man job.
Overall I'm loving my setup! Shes offshore worthy on calm days and has braved 25kts straight east in the keys. Glad I overbuilt her a bit.