Cale's 1986 osprey 200 rebuild 140 suzuki with bracket

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Run it through the helix? I am interested to know more mike. I know nothing about this. Also is the digital gauge really $500?? I would love to go that route but damnit man.

Yeah, the digital gauge is about $500 plus you would need the rest of the NEMA gear and engine adapter which will run a few hundred more. I've read that you can keep your analog gauge and still connect to a NEMA network but I never read too much into it since I already had the C-10 gauge. That could be a cool option for you to save some cash.

Here's a pic of my setup. It's nice to have but of course not necessary to get out on the water.

[Crives92]

I really appreciate the info. I did a ton of research on it. I'm not sure how I'd never heard of it. I may do that down the line. It sounds like a sweet setup. You have a clean console!!

[Crives92]

I created a quick little side by side comparison collage. Maybe this will motivate someone down the line. Have a great week!

[Crives92]

I have a hydraulic steering question. I bought my motor with a used sea star setup. I have been bleeding this system multiple times over multiple days and I am 100 percent sure all the air is out. It has had 0 bubbles for 20+ min turning each way. (I hooked a long line up to my main canister by the helm and turned it for a long time, then switched to the other side). The problem I am having is when I go to turn the wheel to the right, if I turn it fast it turns like it should. If I turn it slow the wheel will turn 5 or 6 turns before it grabs and actually starts turning the motor. When i turn to the left it functions as it should. Is this a seal problem? Do I need to look into rebuilding the helm and or ram? This is my first hydraulic sterring setup so I am stumped. I can assure you it is not air, but anything else I'm not sure?

[dbiscayne]

If it was the donut seal in the steering ram at the engine I think you'd have issues regardless of which way you're turning the wheel. Sounds more like the helm needs a rebuild, theres several pistons that get moved when you're turning the wheel if they start to stick, or if the internal pieces are worn out & not pushing on the pistons like they should you'll get the results you're describing. Dirty fluid, corrosion from air exposure will do it.

might want to take the steering arm off the engine & manually move the engine left & right, make sure it's not binding when turning to the right. If the donut seal in the ram is just starting to go then maybe it would give problems turning one way but not the other?

[Crives92]

Thank you for the reply. I went ahead and called sea star and a local rebuild place. I was told to flush it with dex3 atf and see if it fixed it. It did not. So I took the helm off and took out the chang over valve that makes it turn right vs left. It looked OK and sounds OK when you turn. But sea star assured me the helm was the problem. So I am gonna do get me a re manufacturered one next week sometime. Its aggrivating but one of those boat things right. Lol. I think you were right on it.

[Dano]

How does she run with that 140 on the bracket.? Mph at WOT and cruise?

[Crives92]

Dano, the headline is misleading now as i have repowered with a 175. It ran pretty good with the 140. I wasn't propped just right but top end I was 38 mph at 6200 rpms. And cruise was around 28 mph at 5k rpms if i remember correctly. I was happy with it but wanted some more over all speed. So I put the 175 on. I'm still playing with props but I've seen as high at 48 with the 175 with the cruise around 28-30 at 4k rpms.
I'm still doing little things to the boat and I have only taken it out a couple times since finishing the major stuff. Heres a pic I took today while testing props.