Bought a boat! 1990 200 Striper

[Callyb]

I'm glad you are deciding to convert it to a 25".

I was was just throwing out ideas, but that is the way to go. Good deal on it being a freshwater motor too!

[GoneFission]

Farley's da man! - Great offer for help - and isn't that what this site is all about?    

Just for grins - what bore diameter does it say on the heads?  The 150 was made in 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter versions - I would guess yours is a 2.0 liter model, but the bore diameter will tell the full story.  Each head has the bore diameter on it - it should be 3.125 for a 2.0 liter or 3.375 for a 2.4...  

Sounds like you have good news so far!  Good luck and keep posting pics as you move along.  

[fitz73222]

    .....have to confess I have subscribed to the 'it needs a bigger knockometer' school of thought on more than one occasion. Especially working on old farm equipment.  8)

However, the plus side of this FrankenMerc, especially what seems to be a formerly freshwater one, is the BFH is not required. We had the lower unit pulled.... without issue..... to check the impeller (new, btw!) ....so hopefully this kit should go on fairly well.

Fitz....any special pointers I should be aware of??
Thanks again.

Glad you're pulling the pin on the extension kit... Now for some details. The extension housing will need some prep before installation. The casting is fairly rough so a good 220 wet sand and take a mild file and radius all of the sharp edges around the mating surfaces so you will get good paint adhesion. Paint will chip and flake off of a sharp corner. Then prime with zinc cromate and paint with phantom black. I like for the housing to sit for at least a week before install so the paint has time to throughly cure. Do the fingernail test after about day 5. When you cant mark the paint with your fingernail; its kicked and you're good to go. Now it looks like the #611 kit covers a broad range of apps and during those years Mercury made the switch to metric bolts so you need to know what you have. If your engine is an early model as we suspect she probably has SAE threads for 3/8-16 (0.375") later models were M10X1.5 (0.393") so that is critical to know to make sure they ship you the right stud kit. Being a FrankenMerc, the midsection serial number may not be good enough to verify so take out a lower unit bolt and measure the bolt to see what it really is. Once you establish the thread the next thing to do is get threaded holes spotlessly clean. I use brake cleaner and run the correct tap in and out of the hole until you can screw the tap into the hole with your fingers only without the aid of a tap handle. You will be loctite-ing the new studs into place (blue #271) and they stress that the studs must screw in easily until they bottom out. Also make sure the stock dowel pins that align the current halves together are not too long for the new extension housing. The kit will come with shorter pins if you need them. The pins are loctited in place from the factory so just heat the housing with a little mapp gas torch to melt the loctite and they will come right out the some vicegrips. When you get ready to install this kit I will walk you through the steps needed to do the shift shaft extension. I'll warn you now; the instructions that come with this kit were written, illustrated and edited by a 5th or 6th grader so I'll share what we learned as we progess in the project.

[Aquamaniac]

Wow......great info!
Definitely major help in getting this done RIGHT.
Waiting on fella to return Monday so I can get him to place order and hopefully save some $$$$$.
Will let you know when kit arrives.

Occupied myself yesterday cleaning up boat, refinishing teak, getting new lights on trailer, etc, etc.

Will post some pics later, but captain says we need to go get groceries!

Thanks again....your kind assistance is surely appreciated  

[Aquamaniac]

OK.....here are some pics of progress.....

Cleaned up quite well. Realized the hull had been painted after I got a layer of dirt off it.


Pretty pleased with how the teak came back to life.....also notice the lack of the funky light bar  8)



Got dark before I took any pics of the trailer work today. Scraped and wire brushed axles ...then applied Rust Converter.
I'll pull off the motor covers tomorrow and check the head markings.

As an aside.....wonder if anyone has one or knows of a source for the black switch cover on the console...

[RickK]

Toggle switch covers
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss? ... er+and+Nut

[Aquamaniac]

Hey Rick,
Actually, what I meant was the original black plate with all the white lettering that the switches mount in.
Somehow have a suspicion that it might be impossible to find.......

[seabob4]

Bruce's (wingtime) buddy could make you one but I doubt it would have the cute little boat diagram...

[GoneFission]

Hey Rick,
Actually, what I meant was the original black plate with all the white lettering that the switches mount in.
Somehow have a suspicion that it might be impossible to find.......

Use a Scotchbrite pad and scrub it down well.  Then spray it with ArmorAll and give it another good scrub.  Often they will come back (almost) as good as new!  

[Aquamaniac]

Fitz: I tried to locate the numbers you mentioned that would help ID this motor.....but no luck (?)

The only numbers I could see on the heads were 1026 5189  and 73280
Found a number on midsection: 1579-6606
Serial # on mount : 6474916
Numbers on carbs: 1382-6425 and 157-155

Not sure if the head numbers you mentioned would be visible if installed. Where should I be looking?

Any of this make sense or help with ID?

I would love to know what this was .....year, HP ....in order to get appropriate service manual and parts manual.

Thanks!!!
Tom

[GoneFission]

Fitz: I tried to locate the numbers you mentioned that would help ID this motor.....but no luck (?)
The only numbers I could see on the heads were 1026 5189  and 73280
Found a number on midsection: 1579-6606
Serial # on mount : 6474916
Numbers on carbs: 1382-6425 and 157-155
Thanks!!!
Tom

6474916 is a good Serial Number, and fits an early 1984 150HP V6 with a 2.0 liter block.  The 1984 year for the 150 V-6 started with 6443213 and ended with 6616990.  So your motor should be early in the 1984 model year based on this number, and this is the number you need when ordering parts - Mercury goes by S/N, not model/year.  

Hope this helps - good luck!  

[Aquamaniac]

GF: hmmm.....when I put that serial number into the Mercury website it brought up Service Literature for  a 200 V6 ELPTO
     Yet  I saw on another site that Merc used serial numbers for various years and HP.....hence my confusion!
That's why I was hoping some of the other numbers would help sort this out.

What I did find on Mercury Racing is the 1382-6425 carbs had a 1.0 Venturi and 'legal in COR'. But no reference if they would be on 150 or 200.

Also found this...."The number 1382-6425 is an outdated number for a WH-38 carb. The latest p/n appears to be 1382-7563A13/14 and 15. Therefore your carbs should have some kind of stamping (usually top front or mounting flange of the carb) which shows WH-38-1, WH-38-2 and WH-38-3.

Here is a chart for V6 engines and you will see that the -38 is used on V135 1986 thru 1990 and V150, 1978 thru 1990. These can be Mariner as well as Mercury:"

So......guess it leans me toward the 150HP........
Who'd a thunk this would be so tough??????

[fitz73222]

GF: hmmm.....when I put that serial number into the Mercury website it brought up Service Literature for  a 200 V6 ELPTO
     Yet  I saw on another site that Merc used serial numbers for various years and HP.....hence my confusion!
That's why I was hoping some of the other numbers would help sort this out.

What I did find on Mercury Racing is the 1382-6425 carbs had a 1.0 Venturi and 'legal in COR'. But no reference if they would be on 150 or 200.

Also found this...."The number 1382-6425 is an outdated number for a WH-38 carb. The latest p/n appears to be 1382-7563A13/14 and 15. Therefore your carbs should have some kind of stamping (usually top front or mounting flange of the carb) which shows WH-38-1, WH-38-2 and WH-38-3.

Here is a chart for V6 engines and you will see that the -38 is used on V135 1986 thru 1990 and V150, 1978 thru 1990. These can be Mariner as well as Mercury:"

So......guess it leans me toward the 150HP........
Who'd a thunk this would be so tough??????

I agree with John's findings; I have two different sites I use for serial number cross reference and that number comes up as a 1984 150HP. The good news is that service parts interchange between all models so it really doesn't matter what it is. There is no doubt she is pieced together from several years...

[Aquamaniac]

Great....150HP it is!
I was hoping it was not 200.....I believe the boat max HP is 185....not to mention the 150 is likely thirsty enough!
I will order a $5 service manual download and move on.
Thanks fellas.  

Hope to get the extension kit on the way today. Fitz, I am sure I will be touching base with you .....

Then tackle electrical (suspect gauges could use replacing), cosmetics (repair spider cracks then top paint and bottom paint), etc.

Heheh....seems I can turn what what supposed to be a 'run around now' boat into a project. Oh well......I do love a project!  

[fitz73222]

Hope to get the extension kit on the way today. Fitz, I am sure I will be touching base with you .....


Did you determine which bolt size you have? SAE or Metric?