1984 200ccp possible repower?

[CaseyJones]

My 200hp 2009  etec stopped running yesterday and I’m worried it might be siezed.   It is on a 1984 200ccp professional center console.  I am wondering if anyone has repowered with a 4 stroke?  I am concerned about the aft scuppers/drains being submerged with the added weight.  Second is that although it’s in great shape were these transoms built enough to handle the weight and torque of a modern 4 stroke?  Any suggestions and experiences would be appreciated.

Thanks

[DanB]

Casey,

Is the Etec seized because its been sitting or did it just stop running? If it has been sitting the piston rings can be sticking from not being run in a while. If you believe the Etec is toast but would like to see if you can get it running again or have nothing to lose as a last effort you can try this. Remove the spark plugs and I would recommend labeling them to the corresponding spark plug hole so you don't waste time trying to get them indexed again when it's time to put them back in. Tilt the outboard as high as you can and add a couple drops of Etec oil to each piston through the spark plug holes. Let it sit for a day or so. This will help lubricate the rings hopefully. With the sparks plugs still out you can try (gently) manually to move the flywheel. Trying to put too much force on the flywheel to spin can damage the piston rings. Should move easier without the plugs in. If I remember correctly its not an issue for the Etec's timing. I think moving the flywheel on a four stroke will mess up the timing from what I recall reading. If the pistons move freely you can put it back together and try to see if it will start. If it starts I would recommend doing a compression check after.  Worked for my etec 2005 250hp a couple years ago with no problem. Just stuff I picked up reading online and youtube. I am no expert.  Dangar marine on youtube is pretty good. My transom on my 91 250 CCP  I am in the process of rebuilding was a mess and completely waterlogged/rotted towards the bottom. I am not saying that is your case but definitely worth investing in if you are planning to keep it for years to come. 

[CaseyJones]

Dan,

Thanks for the reply.  The motor was running great and then just stopped….almost as if I had got a line stuck in the prop. Now it won’t even crank over and I tried putting it in gear and turning the prop but it won’t budge. 

-Chris

[plugger]

What does that ETec weigh? An equivalent 4 stroke would be 100 lbs more.
In. My case my old Johnson had a lot more torque that it’s replacement.

[mshugg]

I repowered my 200 CCP with a 150 Mercury four stroke, and the performance is great. Top speed is 43 mph with a 3500 rpm cruise of 25 mph. Mine is hung on a bracket with an oversized t top, so depending on how yours is rigged, you may see better. 

If, you’re interested, you can check it out on my Rebuild thread “New toMe 1979 CCP.”

Here’s a link: https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13659.435

[eddielg]

I have a 1983 20' walkaround. We had a tired 175 hp Johnson 2 stroke. Replaced it with a Suzuki DF-140. Couldn't be happier. Quieter, faster, much more fuel effecient. With a hull from the 80's I am sure your gas tank is about shot. I would replace it along with your new engine.
Engine is 60 lbs heavier, so, when I replaced the 70 gallon gas tank, I had Allied shorten the tank by 2 feet off the rear.  This moved my center of gravity forward and really increased performance of the hull.
Good luck.

[CaseyJones]

Ok so the good news is it’s a connecting rod that let go.  Miraculous that there was no other damage done.  Question is why?   Before it goes back together the shop wants to figure out what made the connecting rod snap.  I had just let out the lines so was going maybe 1k rpm when it let go.

[Birdoggin Baker]

When you see a cast rod break at the smaller end, just below the wrist pin like that, that's usually a high rpm break. It may have cracked due to fatigue at a high rpm run, and just got you at your 1000 rpm putt. High heat with high rpms can cause a buckling of the rod, instead of breaking. If that engine isn't running lean or rich to cause heat issues, and the integrity is good, I'd sink in another rod and piston. Maybe a set if I was already in it.