Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Trolling Motors and Kickers => Topic started by: adnan.begic1 on April 25, 2020, 07:04:38 PM
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Has anyone put an ipilot system on a 225? Been trying to find some help with where to house batteries, how anyone has fabbed or made mounts for it to fit the hull. I have a 95 225 explorer and she sits kind of bow heavy so i wouldnt like to add the batteries in the bow but she also struggles to get onto plane sometimes(usually when the livewell is full) so i dont know how the weight will affect the aft either. Powered by a 2005 225 yamaha four stroke, and no trim tabs. Would the tabs help because i feel that the cutouts in the hull make pockets and drag a ton. I know this is a lot haha but anything helps. Thanks!
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I don't think I would put an electric trolling motor on an Explorer - these boats are heavy and I don't think the trolling motor could handle it and if it could, with maybe a 36V system, the batteries wouldn't last long. I have a friend that has a 20hp kicker on his - never saw it used but it was there.
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Trim taps will help that hull a lot but.... is the prop itself correct? Is the motor mounted at the right height?
Post up some performance numbers.
I run a 150 4 stroke on my 210 which is similar to your hull without the Euro transom. I have tabs and they help get her up on a plane much quicker than without.
Good luck. :thumright:
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We did adjust the mount height and got it to the right level and its running a 15 by 19 prop... thinking i need more like a 17 but havent seen one come up for sale yet and im not buying one new haha. Thanks for your input, the new minn kotas are supposed to hold up to around 10000 lb boats, so i went ahead and got one of the 112# with an 87 inch shaft... its a beast. Hopefully tabs will flatten out the running surface and help everything after all this stuff is done.
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Sorry missed the part earlier.. just got a new gauge so will be able to see rpm and data, so i can see for sure if she’s running right. With full fuel, full fishing gear and ice and cooler, 2 people on board she does about 26 top end. The engine does bog out sometimes so i think i need to check the fuel delivery somewhere because we found the fitting onto the high pressure in the motor was lose and it was leaking, that fixed a lot haha but shes not yet fully there i believe.
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With full fuel, full fishing gear and ice and cooler, 2 people on board she does about 26 top end.
Something ain't right. Below is the link to my hull with the 150. Granted, this was lightly loaded to create a baseline but fully loaded and 3 men aboard I can still hit 36 mph. I need to raise my height about another inch and that should help with the top end. I'm more about my cruising performance so WOT isn't my first concern and it took trying three different props to get where I'm currently at. These hulls are very similar in length, width but you have a heavier hull (dry with motor) but then you have 75 more ponies. That hull should do 40+ with little problem if everything is set up and running correctly.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=4608.msg144901#msg144901
Good luck. :thumright:
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I agree with CB - you should see 35+ mph.
So you bought the ipilot just for the sea anchor capability? Expensive anchor but I do agree, the ipilot is cool.
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Yep lol tired of anchoring perfectly after 3 attempts just for the wind to change, this thing should be a game changer if we can get everything figured out. Working on it now and ran into gauge issues:(
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Where on the forum would i look for help with my yamaha gauge and motor connections?
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Other than a member with the same setup, we won't have what you're looking for here. A service manual is your best bet.
Start here.
https://www.emanualonline.com/Marines/Outboard-Engines/Yamaha/1998-_-2005-Yamaha-Outboard-Motor-Service-Repair-Manual.html?currency=USD&gclid=CjwKCAjw4pT1BRBUEiwAm5QuRxgCTt6EdzlaKwDom8LwXuMtRWP8wbYJFMbYQ3OCcXhIFFGOV424IBoCBs0QAvD_BwE
This is an Owner's Manual. I don't know what model motor you have so this might not pertain to you. While this won't give you wiring schematics and service repair like the link above, it will give you a general idea of your gauges and their functions along with other general knowledge.
https://www.maritimepropulsion.com/files/pdf/1001498
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Ive already looked through and tried everything i could think of and couldnt figure anything out, model is 2005 225turd and the gauge is a 6y5-8350t-E0-00. The rpms seem to work but the trim sensor seems to be off, dont know if im using the wrong harness or if maybe a trim sensor is out. Hate roadblocks like these lol. But if anyones interested got the batteries installed and ran all the wiring, mocked up a mount for the trolling motor, installed tabs and tried to get the gauge done today. Next is stereo, 12v plug, and new helm.
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First thing to check is the trim switch lever under the motor. They tend to stick after sitting for some time.
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No its all good, put a whole new switch a few weeks ago, the old one snapped off lol, but it just doesnt register on the gauge what level it is at, wondering if ive got the wrong wires hooked up
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Did you buy that gauge new to replace an older model?
Could that be D0-00 rather than E0-00 ending on the gauge #?
*2005 and newer Yamaha outboards that use the one plug trim and oil harness may require a 6Y5-85335-00-00 adapter harness in cases.*
SKU#: 6Y5-8350T-DO-00
Replaces OEM # 6Y5-8350T-83-00
I mention this because the same condition persists with earlier Yamaha multi gauges when using the model for 94 year 2 strokes on earlier model outboards. Yamaha switched the way the trim indicator was wired. I searched for some time to find an older (pre 94) gauge for my 91 200. Rick K experienced the same thing on his 92. It appears this has also occurred on the 2005 and later motors when using this gauge. If that's the case, you'll need to search for the adaptor harness for the gauge to function.
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That really stinks... youd think theyd be plug and play but i guess not.
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Well in theory they are but....
One must match the correct era gauge with the motor year and model. They (Yamaha) seems to change the wiring for some readouts but especially the trim sensor.
This is a 2008 rigging manual. 99% may not be useful but there are wiring schematics for different motors toward the back.
http://www.moto-m0t0.ru/riggingguide2008.pdf
You may wish to check and see if your gauge can be reset for your trim sender wiring (gleaned from another Forum).
05-16-2019, 10:46 PM
I got my new trim sender in today, but the new trim sender had a 3 wire plug, plus the gray wire and my original had 2 wire plug, plus the gray wire. I installed it anyways along with the new metal collar instead of plastic. When first installed it would not properly track on the trim gauge. I pulled the gauge once again and set the dip switch to a 3 wire trim sender, and it’s now tracking properly. So currently Trim, Temp, Oil, and tach seem to be correct. I believe all I have left is to install the blue wire from gauge to my gauge backlight switch with all my other gauges and I should be good to go. I will post a picture of the gauge when I get to go out in the boat. Thanks for all your help.
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Trolling motor is done🤞🏼 How do i post pictures lol id love to show all of you... its a beast.
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Read carefully. Not really hard.
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0
Good luck. :thumright:
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Howdy folks, first post on this forum (bringing my new baby home this weekend). I'm really curious to see how you mounted your Minn Kota!
Here in the Pacific Northwest trolling motors such as the Minn Kota I-Pilot are almost mandatory for successful fishing for kokanee -especially trolling against the wind. Folks either mount the electric robot on the bow or have a TR1 robot installed on the rear kicker.
Since you already spent the big $$ on your robot an inexpensive addition is to install an extended skeg on the motor similar to the one on the link below. (Mods: not trying to steer towards this specific brand/product-just an example) About 1/2 the folks around here make their own out of a piece of irrigation pipe and 1/4" aluminum plate or you can go the route my pop took on his Minn-Kota Ultera and have one made for about $100. The impact on performance can't be over stated. The skeg is essentially a rudder that will help "plant" your bow in place when trolling into the wind. The amount of RPM your ele motor needs to keep course is about 1/3 of normal which = much longer battery life. If the boat also has a kicker you can set your thrust/speed with the little engine and steer with the bow mount-often with ZERO rpm from the motor at all.
https://leelock.com/product/lms-01-magnum-skeg/