'74 22-2

[love2fish]

Thanks! I agree! just gotta work on that motor and then maybe switch out the Ttop for a tower!

[love2fish]

cleaning up the teak on the boat and started on the console- the teak table on the drink tray of the console- there's a screw on the inside of the consle on the "forward" side but nothing accessable on the aft side. Has anyone ever taken these out/off? I removed the screws but they are still wedged in there pretty good. wanted some advice if anyone has removed them before i break them trying to removed them or just sand in place.
Thanks

[love2fish]

I noticed some brown stains on the bow liner after a good wash or rain, started removing the anchor rigging and vents and found some soaked wood. the whole starboard half was soaked and all along the aft before the "lip". I know idealy removing the core from the bottom is the way to go, but i didnt have a way to remove the whole liner and flip it. And I planned on removing any hardware/rigging from the bow cap anyway and non-skidding it. So with that, i started:
-cut out everything that was wet and then some
-layed down a layer of 1708
-1/2" marine ply
-biscuit joint style slivers to join the new piece with the existing (to prevent any cracking)
-i had some cabisol i mixed with resin to fill in any voids around the wood so there's a solid fill all the way around.
-layer of 1708
(layer of 1708 along the bottom side also. trickey upside down).

Already it feels very solid and strong but I want to make sure it's not going to have any problems with me standing up there fishing/throwing a net. I have room for 2 more layers of 1708 and then some mat (wanted a top layer or 2 of mat for sanding). What do you recommend for a "filler" I dont want to use body filler for the whole thing.  Maybe something like Awlfair or a similar product.  I plan on painting over this with a basic white  and then kiwi gripping the entire cap (laying out non-skid sections). Do i even need to worry about a filler in the body of the recore or just around the joints?



Here's the piece i replaced before i got the 1st layer of glass on it.

[gran398]

Hi,

The last pic was good, but could you post a few more from a distance, in perspective?

Thanks.

[love2fish]

Here's a pic without the tarp on the tip of the bow. Not really sure how much more of a perspective you need.

[love2fish]

whenever the weather clears for a long enough time, I plan to sand more of a perimiter around the existing new class and lay a larger piece (to about 1 inch from the rub rail). I think that will give me a smooth enough transition. Its already a lot stronger than before the recore.

What do you all recommend as far as my next step after the final glass goes down?
-sand to smooth
-wipe/clean with (acetone or denatured alcohol)?
Do I need to prime or can i put a base coat of topside paint down?
My final top coating will be Kiwi Grip.

Thanks

[kedd]

L2F,

What do you think the max depth is you are going to fill after you level with glass and ply is?
Awlfair is great but I would not go more than a skim coat.


Kedd

[gran398]

Here's a pic without the tarp on the tip of the bow. Not really sure how much more of a perspective you need.

Thanks for that...the tarp and the bubbly stuff aft of it had me goofed.

[Capt Matt]

The grey kiwi grip is very light and does not get that hot, not close to as dark as it is in the pic's. i think the white would glare bad.
Capt matt

[love2fish]

Kedd- exactly, i was thinking of just a skimcoat- (if that is even necessary). my top layer of glass is pretty smooth. And I've never put down  a non-skid before so i wasnt sure how much any "imperfections" would show (or the slight pattern of the glass).

I guess the best way to ask is:

Does the underneath layer need to be completely smooth of can you just glass, undercoat, non-skid?

[LilRichard]

I'd skim coat it.  You'll (probably) find more imperfections than you think.  

That being said, it doesn't have to be PERFECT.

[love2fish]

I've been very busy with work so i havent had a lot of time to work on the boat but i did manage to buy and refinish a teak swim platform and get the bow cap repair 90% finished.

Swim platform before i started on it.


after sanding.


What do you think of the location? it sits just above the water line and i have plenty of clearance for the motor.




I also purchased a transom anchor- similar to the Wang Anchors. 5" set back, 10' anchor pin. Works really well!

[Blue Agave]

Team platform looks sharp!  Isn't there suppose to be a fold down step?

You stated "like a Wang", is it not a Wang?

[fitz73222]

Looks like you are going to keep the teak accents? A little trick I did to keep my loose rod racks in place was to remove the screws at the base, open up the holes in the liner to 3/8 and install rubber well nuts. They are a flanged little rubber plug with an overmolded brass 1/4-20 threaded insert. Push then in the hole and reattach the rod rack with 1/4-20 stainless screws and tighten them up to swell up the rubber plug and tighten the screws. Worked perfectly, I've only had to resnug them up one time in the last two years. No more wollowed out screw holes and loose racks. You may have to cut the screws to the right lenght to keep them from bottoming out in the inside wall of the outer skin as they are tightened, no big deal.

[love2fish]

Blue- no, found them on ebay- search "Dig-In anchors". really good deals! choice of 8 or 10ft anchor pins. A buddy of mine has 1 on his Shearwater and it works great for anchoring or as a push pole. Platform- the platform didnt have a fold down step when i purchased it, but I have one, just havent mounted it yet.

Fitz- I appriciate the tip! I'll look into it! I have tightened mine up a few times.

On a side note- I had a mechanic look at my motor and he said one of the pistons has either slipped,cracked, or warped a ring and thats why the fuel gets "recirculated" back through the carb like it was doing. (what I described as "spitting")... so basically he said it required a rebuild which would be about $1700-2000.
Does that sound right to any of you who have experience with motors? (It's an '85 Evinrude 140 looper).

If it's in need of a rebuild I'm thinking I'll either sell it as is for a parts motor or part it out and start looking for a different motor.