Pop the screw covers off, take the screws out, and the boards will come out. You can then sand them and refinish them. What you put back on depends on what you like. Teak oil is easy but requires more maintenance. A UV varnish (Interlux Schooner, etc.) looks pretty, lasts longer than oil, but will check or require recoating if exposed to sun for too long. Sikkens probably lasts the longest, but requires more coats and prep. Do both sides or the board will tend to warp. To some extent, the answer is the same - you get out of it what you put into it... Once you refinish, screw them back down and re-cover the holes. You can buy pre-cut teak hole covers/plugs at a good marine supply place, or cut your own if you have a plug cutter bit. Seal the screw covers well with caulk or sealer so water does not get in there and cause problems.
Quote from: "GoneFission"Pop the screw covers off, take the screws out, and the boards will come out. You can then sand them and refinish them. What you put back on depends on what you like. Teak oil is easy but requires more maintenance. A UV varnish (Interlux Schooner, etc.) looks pretty, lasts longer than oil, but will check or require recoating if exposed to sun for too long. Sikkens probably lasts the longest, but requires more coats and prep. Do both sides or the board will tend to warp. To some extent, the answer is the same - you get out of it what you put into it... Once you refinish, screw them back down and re-cover the holes. You can buy pre-cut teak hole covers/plugs at a good marine supply place, or cut your own if you have a plug cutter bit. Seal the screw covers well with caulk or sealer so water does not get in there and cause problems.I should have known that sounded too easy... way too easy! So I unscrewed the pole holders that go through the wood and removed them. I then unscrewed all the screws holding it into the gunwhale... well wouldn't you know, the damn stuff is glued down by some crazy super strength adhesive... I am prying carefully and systematically taking care not to mar the fiberglass and no get the wood off in one piece... yeah, no dice... it started to split near the hole for the pole holder... It looks to me as though there is another wood block under fiberglass at each hole... I guess to reinforce it and give something to screw into. Anyway, I will be removing the wood most likely without any chance of saving it. Its not in great shape anyway but a shame to waste teak this way... Once removed I will try to replace it with teak again. If I cant find 8'x6" lengths of teak, would red oak do? Walnut maybe? Do you recommend using adhesive again - I am thinking no since it would make refinishing a bear...Thanks in advance,J
Quote from: "jaycal3"Quote from: "GoneFission"Pop the screw covers off, take the screws out, and the boards will come out. You can then sand them and refinish them. What you put back on depends on what you like. Teak oil is easy but requires more maintenance. A UV varnish (Interlux Schooner, etc.) looks pretty, lasts longer than oil, but will check or require recoating if exposed to sun for too long. Sikkens probably lasts the longest, but requires more coats and prep. Do both sides or the board will tend to warp. To some extent, the answer is the same - you get out of it what you put into it... Once you refinish, screw them back down and re-cover the holes. You can buy pre-cut teak hole covers/plugs at a good marine supply place, or cut your own if you have a plug cutter bit. Seal the screw covers well with caulk or sealer so water does not get in there and cause problems.I should have known that sounded too easy... way too easy! So I unscrewed the pole holders that go through the wood and removed them. I then unscrewed all the screws holding it into the gunwhale... well wouldn't you know, the damn stuff is glued down by some crazy super strength adhesive... I am prying carefully and systematically taking care not to mar the fiberglass and no get the wood off in one piece... yeah, no dice... it started to split near the hole for the pole holder... It looks to me as though there is another wood block under fiberglass at each hole... I guess to reinforce it and give something to screw into. Anyway, I will be removing the wood most likely without any chance of saving it. Its not in great shape anyway but a shame to waste teak this way... Once removed I will try to replace it with teak again. If I cant find 8'x6" lengths of teak, would red oak do? Walnut maybe? Do you recommend using adhesive again - I am thinking no since it would make refinishing a bear...Thanks in advance,JYou don't want to use any common domestic wood species to replace your teak. A good alternative would be Ipe, its great outdoors, we use it for decks and many exterior applications. It isn't used for furniture much because it is very difficult to glue, so its better if you don't have any joints. It will glue, but glue surface needs to be wiped with acetone, hit with a propane torch, only epoxy for glue.Good side about it though, its about 1/5th the price of teak, is readily available in larger sizes, and will weather as good or better than teak. Check out these lumber suppliers, not sure exactly where you are, but they should be fairly close.http://www.thewoodrack.net/http://www.parkervillewoodproducts.com/http://www.cwghardwoodoutlet.com/
I'm with gran starboard looks good and last forever.
I saw that "...8' X 6" teak lumber"...I thought, whoa, someone's gonna be in for a surprise!
Well I spent $70 on (2) 8'x6"x1" IPE boards... Teak would have been 5x the cost... Once I get it cut and routed I will post up some pics. Gotta figure out how to "finish" the Ipe.
