Marc-Time needs a trailer

[flounderpounder225]

Alright guys, this time I need the search-and-buy mission for me.  Put your eyes and ears out there please, I put Marc-Time on stands this afternoon, needs some keel work, and was going to redo the trailer, new design on the bunks etc...but after really looking, I can't see putting more dollars into a trailer that is border line too small for the boat.  With the two 3500 lb axles (7k capacity) I'm probably a little over that when loaded out.  Not sure if the next step is 5K axles?  If so, then the next trailer needs to be 10K capacity.  I am willing to travel some if the price is good, new isn't out of the question yet, but I would probably prefer a newer used, like someone who needs some cash and their boat is in dry storage, willing to part with the trailer... Aluminum or galvanized, doesn't matter.  Thanks guys
Marc

[slvrlng]

Call B&S in Reddick Fl. The same people that built the one you have now. Really nice people to deal with! He only builds stuff in aluminum now.  
352-591-2161

[slvrlng]

http://www.bstrailer.net/Index.asp

[wingtime]

Is Marc-Time really THAT heavy?  I took my 245 Explorer over the scales and she is surprisingly light.  I forget the numbers off hand but they were well withing the capacity of my trailer that has 3500 lbs axles under it and it left me plenty of capacity for gear and fuel.   (don't forget to subtract the tongue weight from the total weight of the loaded trailer to figure your axle weight)    I would think my explorer is heavier than a Osprey too.  Yes the next step up in axles is 5,000 lbs axles.... but you have to step up in tire size and plies to get that kind of capacity too.

[flounderpounder225]

Is Marc-Time really THAT heavy?  I took my 245 Explorer over the scales and she is surprisingly light.  I forget the numbers off hand but they were well withing the capacity of my trailer that has 3500 lbs axles under it and it left me plenty of capacity for gear and fuel.   (don't forget to subtract the tongue weight from the total weight of the loaded trailer to figure your axle weight)    I would think my explorer is heavier than a Osprey too.  Yes the next step up in axles is 5,000 lbs axles.... but you have to step up in tire size and plies to get that kind of capacity too.

When I bought the boat, when it still had the Johnson 225 on it, very little fuel, and no gear on board the scale I put it on without the truck attached said right at 7000 that's trailer boat and everything.

[wingtime]

Wow that is interesting.  In fact I had to go dig out my scale ticket.  This was on a certified scale at a truck stop on the way home.  There was about 50 gallons of fuel in the boat at the time.  The weights were: Steer axle of my truck 4,420 lbs, Drive axle (rear axle) of my truck 4,300 lbs, and the trailer weight was 5,660 lbs.  For a total combined weight of 14,380 lbs.  That 5,660 is the actual weight being carried by the axles.  Well under the 7000 lbs capacity of the axles.

[Circle Hooked]

Marc minus your trailer weight I think your way under, i would stick with the 3500lb axles.

[flounderpounder225]

Marc minus your trailer weight I think your way under, i would stick with the 3500lb axles.

Well I guess first I will make the few necessary repairs to the trailer, then get the boat back on it, and go weigh it again maybe at a different scale.  But isn't the GVWR of the trailer the trailer and boat together? I mean, 2 3500# axles equals 7K capacity, including trailer weight right?

[slvrlng]

Marc minus your trailer weight I think your way under, i would stick with the 3500lb axles.

Well I guess first I will make the few necessary repairs to the trailer, then get the boat back on it, and go weigh it again maybe at a different scale.  But isn't the GVWR of the trailer the trailer and boat together? I mean, 2 3500# axles equals 7K capacity, including trailer weight right?

Correct. If your trailer weighs 1500 lbs with the 3500 axles you would have a 5500 lb carrying capacity.

See if you can find a recycling plant near you. They are usually not quite as busy and if you ask most will let you pull forward so your truck can be disconnected and drop your jack and get just the boat trailer weight. You pull the truck forward until the rear tires are just off the weight pad. Call ahead and find out when is the best time to bring it by. This has worked for me many times.

[wingtime]

But isn't the GVWR of the trailer the trailer and boat together? I mean, 2 3500# axles equals 7K capacity, including trailer weight right?

Yes and no. Normally you do what you said.  Add the capacity of the axles you have together and you get the basic GVWR of the trailer.  However you have to look at the whole system of your trailer.  On your 3500 lbs axles you have two 1750 lbs capacity hubs...  So the axle assembly itself can support 3500 lbs on the axles themselves.  Your springs also have a rating too.  They should be 3500 lbs or they can be higher or lower.  Also you have to look at the tires and wheels you have.  Larger size wheels (14" & 15") have a higher weight capacity than say 13" wheels.  Take a look at the sidewalls for the rating of the tires you have.   You should have a minimum of 10% of the trailer weight for your tongue weight too.   The way I look at it the axles are NOT supporting the weight of the tires and wheels (unsprung weight).  So In reality your axles, and springs can carry 7000 lbs and then you should have 700 or more pounds on the hitch plus the tire & wheel weight your actually good for 7800 lbs. or so.  Does or did your trailer have a GVWR sticker on it?

You should be able to find a scale nearby.  As Lewis said a scrap place usually has them but they only usually give you total weight not the weight of the axles like a truck stop scale. You should be able to find a public truck scale at a truck stop or a moving company just do a quick online search.  The fee is usually $10-15 and you can get two weighs for that (gross & tare). So you have the option of weighing the empty trailer than the loaded trailer so you can find the actual weight of the boat and motor.  Or you can weigh it with the trailer unhooked giving you a total weight of the loaded trailer.  Then with it hooked up to your truck to give you the weight on the axles (just pull the truck off the scale if does not have the sections to give you axle weight)  If you go this route then down the road if you decide to buy a new trailer you can tell them exactly what your boat and motor weighs.

[flounderpounder225]

But isn't the GVWR of the trailer the trailer and boat together? I mean, 2 3500# axles equals 7K capacity, including trailer weight right?

Yes and no. Normally you do what you said.  Add the capacity of the axles you have together and you get the basic GVWR of the trailer.  However you have to look at the whole system of your trailer.  On your 3500 lbs axles you have two 1750 lbs capacity hubs...  So the axle assembly itself can support 3500 lbs on the axles themselves.  Your springs also have a rating too.  They should be 3500 lbs or they can be higher or lower.  Also you have to look at the tires and wheels you have.  Larger size wheels (14" & 15") have a higher weight capacity than say 13" wheels.  Take a look at the sidewalls for the rating of the tires you have.   You should have a minimum of 10% of the trailer weight for your tongue weight too.   The way I look at it the axles are NOT supporting the weight of the tires and wheels (unsprung weight).  So In reality your axles, and springs can carry 7000 lbs and then you should have 700 or more pounds on the hitch plus the tire & wheel weight your actually good for 7800 lbs. or so.  Does or did your trailer have a GVWR sticker on it?

Bruce
Yes I am going to do some weighing here soon, since the boat is off the trailer.  Looking at the 4100 dry weight it does seem that inshould be able to stay with the 2 3500 lb axles.  I have a place right down the street that has scales,  So I am going to do that.  Found this looking onnthe local forum, this IS MY EXACT trailer, but my center bunks only run half way up the trailer, this design may be exactly what I need,.  Nothing is easy... But we'll figure it out... Thanks
http://www.pensacolafishingforum.com/f5 ... le-139122/

You should be able to find a scale nearby.  As Lewis said a scrap place usually has them but they only usually give you total weight not the weight of the axles like a truck stop scale. You should be able to find a public truck scale at a truck stop or a moving company just do a quick online search.  The fee is usually $10-15 and you can get two weighs for that (gross & tare). So you have the option of weighing the empty trailer than the loaded trailer so you can find the actual weight of the boat and motor.  Or you can weigh it with the trailer unhooked giving you a total weight of the loaded trailer.  Then with it hooked up to your truck to give you the weight on the axles (just pull the truck off the scale if does not have the sections to give you axle weight)  If you go this route then down the road if you decide to buy a new trailer you can tell them exactly what your boat and motor weighs.

[slvrlng]

Info from the past.

http://classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/view ... ale#p37773

[flounderpounder225]

So lots of good advice on here as usual, and I have a direction now.  Went down to the local trailer place (Rob’s) and talked with them, instead of going with 5200# axles, then have to get new hubs, wheels, tires and all that, I going to step up to 2000# springs instead of the 1750#’s, that will give me 8000# capacity.  I know it’s a little stretch on the axles, but I am having them make new Galvanized 3500# axles for me also, so the whole running gear will be new.  And 8000# should get the job done without flattening the springs out.  Now, I am going to put brakes on one axle, I have had Tie Down brand years ago and they were junk, Kodiak seems to be the Cadillac, however the owner of Rob’s was telling me that Tie Down has come out with a completely new design, that he has had great results with, the G5 series.  It’s a redesigned piston and seal that he says literally snaps the piston back when pressure is released.  Eastern Marine has the whole set up for one axle, including a brand new coupler and disc actuator with built in electric back up solenoid for $500 delivered to the house.  There is a thread on THT about brakes, and Chris from Eastern Marine is a regular over there, I PM’d him on his opinion of Kodiak VS The New G5 series.. we’ll see,.  What do ya’ll think?  Any real experience with the new G5 Tie Down series on our forum?

[RickK]

I don't know anything about Tie Down but I did just install a new Kodiak 100% stainless kit on my front axle. I got the kit from SturdyBuilt trailers for $636. Took an hour and a half to install.
I'm about to head out to the gathering 150 miles north so I'll have a better sense of how it works later today and will report back on Monday.

BTW - I'll move this thread to the Trailers forum since it fits that better than classified.

[wingtime]

Marc, I was talking to my trailer guy about this and he said 3500 lbs axles will be more than enough. He also mentioned what springs you are running is key. So your on the right track. Don't go too heavy on the sings though. My 200xf trailer was riding on 3000 lbs springs!    Talk about stiff!