Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 225 Rebuilds => Topic started by: flfisher on August 02, 2011, 08:54:09 AM
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Hello all I just joined the board so i could share my 225 center console rebuild.
I picked the boat up 2 weeks back just outside of Tallahassee for 1600 bucks.
The guy I picked the boat up from told me he never used the boat and said it had no more then 50 hours on it since his father gave him the the boat back in 98 which is very believable since there was not even one spider crack in the gelcoat anywhere on the boat. even though the boat needed everything redone from the floor to wiring , fuel hoses, steering , Motor has very low compression(1990 225 johnson)I knew what type of hull it was and the model I have wanted as long as the boat had been made. The great thing is the inner liner stringer system was all composite and the transome was bone dry and rock solid. The only reason why the deck rotted was because the manufacturer made a mistake and that was on the front of the boat starboard side between the rib and stringer there was a drain made of pvc that goes thru the stringer and suppose to drain into the bottom of the hull but for some reason the sprayed foam over the pvc drain and would not allow any standing water in that area to drain causing the box area between the stringer and rib to fill up and rot out the deck . This wasnt discovered until we pulled the deck and removed the gas tank. we should have the deck in by the end of the week or going into the beginning of next week.
I have ordered the uflex hydraulic steering and am currently looking for a 250 yami hpdi or 250 four stroke. also waiting on the canvas for my T-Top which will be royal blue.
The new wiring system will not have any fuses but breakers since we are going with a digital switching system. electronics will be all furuno Fcv and gp 37. With all of the ethanol issues we are using 2 raycor drainable bowls with the see thru glass. Last night I took some aquabuff to a small area of the hull to see how much of the chalky gelcoat I could get back to normal and it truely looked like new again.
Included I have a few pics to give you an idea of some of the work done , you will notice that my buddy alan is unstrapping the fuel tank and the hull is full of dirt the next pic included is 2-3 hours later after a good pressure wash and some bleach. This is when I got really excited !!!
Stay tuned lots more to post
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(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMAG0081.jpg)
lets try this again
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(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMAG0082.jpg)
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(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMAG0084.jpg)
will post more pics of what she looked like before we tore into her !
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Wow,great project!Now would be a great time to run wiring or hoses from the front to the back,you might want to put in a fresh water tank and pump and run the hose to the transom door,great job,would love to see more pics of the under deck layout. :salut:
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I can't tell from the picture; is that a poly or aluminum tank. What is the general condition of the tank? Is it reusable? There was no hatch over that tank, correct? You had to cut the floor away to gain access? We've had some sidebar discussions about tank ventilation, materials, contact with water and longevity based on the installation environment. Thanks for any input. I just looked at the photo again; looks like poly by the raised area at the fuel fill hose connection. I`m not sure how many 15+ year old poly's have been exhumed for inspection but any information about cracking, stress, thin walls do to alcohol erosion and brittleness or other observations will be much appreciated.
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fitz it is a plastic based tank....... I personally am not to familiar with the all of the tanks on the market and if the plastic would be considered a poly based tank but from our inspection so far after pressure washing and cleaning it I dont see any cracks or wear ....however we are going to pressure test this tank to make sure there isnt any leaks that we cannot see....if you do know what pressure to set our tank at when we do this would greatly cut out alot of the leg work on finding what the psi should be when we test. I will take more pics of this process as well. I actually just talk to a mechanic about this very same issue with the metal tanks compared to the plastic tanks and he told me the only problem he is seeing is with the metal ones. he also told me think about it we store alohol in plastic bottles lol .... makes sense to me I just hope this tank is good last thing I wanna do is dump another 800 in a tank
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Most get tested at about 4 to 5 psi. I would not go over 10, that why they have a vent. Kind of like an egg, a chick can peck itself out but they are relatively strong from the outside.
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ok so this is what she looked like when we picked her up and before we tore everything out
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/boat.jpg)
This boat hadnt moved in three years so on the way back to clearwater from St. Marks we blew 3 tires! lol at one point one tire was so bad it blew a hole thru the trailer fender so bad it looked like someone shot it with a grenade launcher. but after a 7 hour ride back we got her home safe and sound.
Stay tuned :thumright:
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Hey guys sorry for the late update things have been crazy at work.
So far we have been able to finish a few things we decided to hold off on the floor last week and do some more planning because we ran into a slight snag. We noticed that when the manufacturer built the boat they press the cap into the hull making the deck form a slight crown. Well this created a problem for us because the 3/4 plywood that we want to put back into the boat would not bend the way they had it. on each of the stringers when the boat was built they used an epoxy to support the floor.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMAG0093.jpg)
in the image the white you see on the right side is the epoxy which we have decided to remove allowing us the slightly bend the plywood under the lip on the left side. ( the chop glass you see under the lip will be removed today) we will push the plywood sheet as far back under the lip and closes the the hull side as possible and using an epoxy to tie in the ply to the hull and lip.
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Because the non skid on the boat was in perfect shape and impossible to duplicate without getting waves and correct pattern alignment we have decided to clean out the skin that was removed and chip out and grind all of the old core from the deck.
Let me tell you this was a B**ch
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMAG0091.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMAG0096.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMAG0097.jpg)
the 3/4 marine plywood will be resin treated on the back side and add a chop glass to protect it , the cool thing about sliding the ply under the lip is that it will give us the same depth as the skin that was removed allowing us to treat the top side by using standard gp resin we will use a styrene to thin it and let it kick for about 10 minutes then add the epoxy to sandwich down the skin putting the non skid back in place.
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our only concern right now is pressure testing the tank.
we pressure test the tank out of the boat and noticed the tank started to balloon when it hit 3 psi. should we test the tank inside the boat or can this still be done outside of the boat and how long should the tank hold the pressure ?
also I have been doing alot of research regarding the plastic tanks and the only failure I see is when people are installing them incorrectly . what would be the best way to install the tank should we just use the original straps that were in the boat ? and should the straps be snug or should they be really tight?
any help would be great because once that deck is on that would be a nightmare to get that tank out again.
thanks for you help will have more after today
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Oh one other thing before I go ALan ( the guy you always see in the pics and myself Reggie the guy behind the camera)
were driving back from FGCS yesterday and saw a 2000 225 osprey we wanted to take a look and noticed that the floor was having the same issue as ours was having. Im wondering if the drain on this boat that i mentioned at eh beginning of my post was the cause of this. And that is the PVC tubing on each side of the stringers on the front of the boat were filled with foam not allowing any standing water to drain properly. If you have this model I would check it out could be an issue that might cause you some problems in the future. just a head up
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can you get some pics of the drain area you are talking about?to get that crown in the deck, weight the sides of the floor,I would put the tank back in the way it came out,great project :cheers:
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Pete here is the drain I was talking about . It is located under the deck on the port and starboard side. to get a true idea of where it is on your boat if you were to stand next to the fish boxes on either side of boat closest to the side wall it would be below you. now there is a hatch in the deck just in front of the console that leads to a storage locker that pipe Im referring to drains below that storage area , I know on my boat you could access inside the hull through a inspection port where that pipe leads to , however on mine that storage area was completely rotted so I had to cut it out and I am currently in the process of rebuilding. I would imagine you would be able to remove the inspection cap and stick your hands down in that area and check to see if there is anything blocking your PVC drains , its tough because they made the pvc drains so small but its something I would check.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMAG0100.jpg)
now the ideal situation for you would be run a snake up into that pvc just to make sure its not blocked I will get you more pics but if you look closely you can see the pvc tube on the right lower side of the pic it has a piece of fiberglass cloth over the top of it
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keep the pics coming thanks!Seabob,any thoughts on this situation?
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Just for everybody's info, pressure testing tanks, regardless of tank material, is 3 PSI for 14 minutes. Larger volumes require longer times (not greater pressure.). And, yes, poly tanks "balloon", aluminum tanks will probably do the reverse of "oil canning", in other words, you hear it...
So what drains exactly are we talking about? The forward storage compartments drained overboard...I wouldn't exactly call them fishboxes... :shock:
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Went out and compared this to my 225,I beleive what he is referring to are the 2 pie plates on either side of the console,in them is a drain pipe draining that part of the stringer box into the bilge,he may be saying that one if his drains was blocked causing the area to fill with water and rot the deck.I checked both of mine,the starboard one was dry and the port one had a small amount of water,not deep enough to make it in the drain pipe which sticks out into the area about 3",the OPs is flush with the stringer
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/Pete1681/DECKDRAIN.jpg)
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Pete,
Are those the pies adjacent to the forward legs of the t/top?
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very close,you can reach the forward leg bolts,one on port,one starboard
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Hey guys sorry for the long delay regarding updates . I have been busy with my little ones b irthday and work . Not too mention trying to find a motor for our aquasport which has been truely a pain in the ass lol. Its amazing how many con artist there are out there. Well back to the update, so at 330 this morning alan and i jumped in the truck and headed down 75 towards hurrican irene (pampano beach) got a smoking deal on a new 250 f yamaha. This saturday we are setting up the braces for the floor and i will post more about that after the day is done. When we get back this afternoon i will post pics of the 250 stay tuned.
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Hey guys sorry for the long delay regarding updates . I have been busy with my little ones b irthday and work . Not too mention trying to find a motor for our aquasport which has been truely a pain in the ass lol. Its amazing how many con artist there are out there. Well back to the update, so at 330 this morning alan and i jumped in the truck and headed down 75 towards hurrican irene (pampano beach) got a smoking deal on a new 250 f yamaha. This saturday we are setting up the braces for the floor and i will post more about that after the day is done. When we get back this afternoon i will post pics of the 250 stay tuned.
Did the motor come with the rigging? I just did a re-rig from OMC to Yam on a customers boat. 250 OX66. Any questions, feel free...
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Ok..... After a long ride from tampa to miami for what we thought was a great deal on a four stroke we came home empty handed .... The motor was not what was advertised and explained to us over the phone . One of the cylinders was low on compression and had some damage in the skeg telling me that he had hit something . For me 2008 was a new model but not something i was willing to take a chance on with compression showing 200 ,200, 185,170,200,135. Not too mention test driving the motor while the first bands of irene were coming a
shore, then driving home empty handed four hours one way. Needless to say very frustrating . My next question to you guys . Im thinking of switching to twin carberated 150 yamahas instead of four stroke , what would the fuel consumption be ? Would it be better with the 4 or 2 stroke? Also i notice the 225 aquasport has some room on the back but is it enough room to mount twins? The other thing i noticed is we took off a 25 inch shaft motor but it was jacked up on the last mounting screw hole leading me to believe that it can handle a 20 if so that opens the door for me to fiind fresh water motors which is a huge plus as far as wear. Maybe be someone can shed some light on this subject because if they fit on thatb european transome correctly with 20 inch shafts and i can get 2mpg for both motors i think i would be much happier i just cant see paying theprice of the fourb stroke or injection type motor and have to pay some serious cas if something goes wrong ....... 600 per injector if it goes bad or 600 a year in maintenance on a four stroke. Right knoe i dont know just frustrated with all the scam artist.
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You pretty much are going to be dealing with fuel injection for a four stroke or DFI two stroke if you want anything relatively new. It's simply about emissions and running quality. Lots of debate over which way to go. Power to weight ratio is better on a DFI 2 stroke but as time goes on the gap is narrowing. I recently watched a video on valve adjustment on a V6 Yamaha and was astounded at the complexity and cost of the procedure, try something like $2000!. I've got a 4 stroke Mercury 25 Bigfoot 2003 on the rack that I picked up as left for dead and started looking up parts just for sh!ts and giggles. A cylinder head assembly for a 2 cylinder 25 is $1395!!!! retail. The point is, the OEM's have a strangle hold on newer outboard parts and want to drive you towards buying a new unit buy pricing the repair and parts costs into the stratosphere for older units. Granted the transferable warranties are better than ever; but are they covering E10 claims failures, which in reality is 80% of the issue? I'm still running carburated 2 stroke Merc's; 4 of them ranging from 1995-2000 models, between 400 and 700 hours, basic ignition, standard outboards without issue because I'm anal retentive about fuel quality and I'm running stabilized,water separated, managed E10. As long as I can get seals, gaskets, carb kits, etc, etc with good after market support I'll keep running them. My advice is find a clean 2 stroke, low hours, freshwater if possible between 2000-2005 that you can buy at a reasonable price and repair it at a reasonable cost. These engines have an excellent aftermarket support now.
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I spoke to yamaha today and they told me that I cannot use a 20 inch shaft because the motors will sit higher and since I will be using counter rotating I will need the 25 inch shaft. so on with the mission of finding twin 150's . I found one set of 93 150's but one of the steering arms is busted he wanted 4k but I explain to him because I have to fix the steering arm I only feel comfortable paying 3k. so we will see what happens it does however include rigging but nada guides suggested retail is 1250 if they are not damaged. he seems to think they are worth more.... all I can do is tell him what I think they are worth and if he takes it then cool but if not oh well Im not going to rush it! too many bad motors out there to get myself in a rush. I did however get my digital switching system in the mail and also spoke to seaspension who will be doing my leaning post.... if you guys have never heard of them ,they make a pedestal that has a shock system that is intergrated into the pedestal so during rough seas the pedestal acts like car shocks! really cool stuff they are really known in the military for some big stuff they do for the navy .Once I get it I will post pics , I also have some pics that i need to get from Alan that has alot of the work we have done from my last post.
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FF,
The 225 was a great boat with twin 150s, but, keep in mind, you'll need a splashwell mount steering cylinder (http://www.teleflexmarine.com/products/ ... ar_splash/ (http://www.teleflexmarine.com/products/hydraullic-new/outboard-new/seastar_splash/)), as the front mounts ran out of room at port hardover...
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thanks for the updates,can't wait to see the pics!finding good used out boards can be a challenge.ever thought of taking that $3000 as a down pmt on new?its nice to have a warranty,good luck! :salut:
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thanks for the updates,can't wait to see the pics!finding good used out boards can be a challenge.ever thought of taking that $3000 as a down pmt on new?its nice to have a warranty,good luck! :salut:
Pete has a good point and there should be plenty new left overs to be had.
I don't blame you wanting twins,i would like that on mine someday,maybe when gas prices go down :roll:
Oh hay look at my sig pic i do have twins :lol:
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the Problem with getting into a new motor is I would have to do payments. not something I want to do im not big on paying the interest and also having the someone come out and inspect the boat for insurance which is another expense I really dont want to mess with at this point just to put a motor on the back of it. After all said and done I would be into the rig around 400 a month with insurance when I only paid 1600 for the boat motor and tailer even at nada blue book value which shows 7500 in great shape in less then 2 years I would have paid out 2 as much as the boat is worth. I just need to take my time and find the right engine or engines. I still have some work to do but thanks for the input keep it coming.
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wow, great thread/work!!
i wish i had the courage/time/$$ to rip the whole deck off and replace it.. maybe in the future..
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Rain Rain and more RAIN!!!!!!.......... same old thing every day we set aside time to work on the boat it comes down in buckets and ruins our plans to get back to work as of now we have prep as much as we can and just waiting for a clear day to finish up everything regarding the floor. sorry guys for the delay but its hard to post any new pics without having worked on it. I will say however that our leaning post will be done and fabricated within the week.
Any ideas on Electronics would be great I am leaning towards the FURUNO NAVNET 3D or the Lowrance HDS-10 with sidescan sonar and the bottom finder isn't too bad I would have to say its not Furuno but I do think its alot clearer then the Garmin and pretty close to the Raymarine as well. I did however notice Simrad has an awesome unit and the features are similar to the Furuno and just as pricey. I also looked at the Si-tex/koden but with all the outboard motors I have been chasing all over Florida and electronics I have looked at my head feels like its about to explode. ok so lets recap ................
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/boat.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMG_1645.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMG_1644.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMG_1639.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMG_1639.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMG_1654.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMG_1658.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMAG0091.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMAG0081.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMG_1647.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMG_1664.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMAG0096.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMAG0097.jpg)
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I hate that you have to do what your doing but great pics :salut:
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I have a quick question regarding the transom on this boat. Does anyone know the exact distance from the top of the transom in the well area where the motor mounts to the bottom of the hull? Im trying to figure out why the 225 johnson that was on this boat was jacked up so high when it was mounted? When I pulled that motor off, the mounting plate on the mid was jacked up to the very last bolt hole on that johnson. Which had a 25 inch shaft. I was under the impression that the manufacturer built the boats to fit 25 inch or 20 inch shafts exactly,So when the motor is mounted the cavitation plate on the lower unit would sit properly in the water. idkany help would be appreciated im just trying to figure this out so I dont have to remount this motor. or get some serious drag if it is done improperly.
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Went out and looked at mine and the motor is mounted using the second hole down from the top.
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I'm sure sea bob will know the answer to that,my guess would be that different mfgs 25" shafts are all different,show a ship shape tv where he measure the different height of yamaha,merc and evinrude all different.but they were all call 25" :scratch:
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2nd hole down on any manufacturer is the norm, the starting point. 4th hole down (all the way up)? Sounds like someone was trying to make up for prop shortcomings...
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Hello again! I know it has been a couple weeks since my last post. Just a quick update this morning and I will be posting pics over the next couple of days.
The weather finally dried up enough for us to get alot of work done. We started of by finishing the fish box just infront of the console in the deck where we had the draining issue, which caused the well to completely rot out. to cut back on weight we used 2 pieces of door skin and sandwich those together using putty and also treating the wood with styrene and resin mix, we let it kick then full incapsulated both sides with matt then glassed the piece in. Our next step was to empty the tank and clean out all of the sediment, there was only 9 gallons of fuel and oil mix in the tank which made for an easy dump. Pinellas county has a monthly mobil dump where they collect gas and other chemicals so I took the bad fuel to them which saved me a bunch of money.After dumping the fuel we used a petroleum liquid to clean out the sediment at the bottom of the tank and now the tank is ready to be put back in!
The deck is trickier then we first thought because of the crown so we had to cut the front part of the deck in 2 pieces, this will allow us to fit under the cap wall all the way to the outside of the hull . underneath the floor we glassed in braces on each side so we have epoxy the floor to those braces. Also so we dont lose any strength we have gone with a lap joint 3in" in width so when each piece is laid down they will lay down over the top of each other we will also lock those pieces into the stringers with 3 inch stainless screwswith epoxy.
the side pieces will run the length of the gunwale to the back of the repair and will also be lapped .
by doing this it will allow us to put the tank back in and lay one solid piece above the tank.
I think the toughest part of the lap joint is holding up a 4x 7 foot sheet of marine plywood perfectly on a table saw to cut a lap joint 1/2 thick !!
All of these pieces will be incapsulated with matt and each joint will have epoxy to lock each piece in creating a very strong joint. Also the floor will be locked into the stringers using stainless screws and the gunwale will be drawn tight to the floor using epoxy stainless screws every 9 inches.
one last thing has anyone every used liquid nails on a boat ? I know this stuff is pretty hard and is water proof , Im just wondering if anyone has ever used it before.
thanks
stay tuned
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great progress!instead of trying to cut that joint on a table saw,a router may make it easier,do some test cuts to get the depth right,as far as liquid nails goes,never used it on a boat but the stongest is the PL brand with polyurathane,its like liguid nails and gorrilla glue,good luck! :salut:
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we need to do this job on my neighbor's '96 225 also.
his floor is so bad the t-top and the leaning post rock back and forth while we're running.. :shock:
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pete we got the cuts perfect.....it wasnt easy but they came out good ........
81walkaround I will be posting more indepth detail regarding the steps we are taking for people that are having to do the same repair on these model boats. I have a feeling you will see more of these floors going bad because of this draining issue in the front. If you have any questions regarding the repair feel free! :D
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HEY GUYS ! just got back from a nice long hunt out of state .........Had to get in the woods and fill up the freezer with some meat..... anyways back to the task at hand I just wanna recap where we are at with some pics and a break down of where we are. the first Pic will show the rebuild of the well in the deck just infront of the console. This well was in real bad shape when we got the boat and was completely rotten. I grinded out all of the fiberglass to one inch lip all the way around and used 2 door skins snadwiched together with putty. We then used Matt to treat both sides of the skin for strength and glassed it into the well.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMG_1674.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMG_1688.jpg)
after glassing in the core we then added an inspection hatch that was there previous to us rebuild it.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMG_1710.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMG_1712.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMG_1715.jpg)
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the next set of pictures we then added a lap joint to the piece of plywood that stretches the width of the boat closes to the transom which is where we cut the deck away.in this area we added stainless screws locking the top fiberrglass skin into the core and all the way into to composite stringers that run underneath the floor to add support along with pushing the 5 inch plywood back in between the top skin and the bottom skin of fiberglass. behind this long piece we added putty to lock the piece in as well as the 3" screws every 12 inches to make sure this piece does not move.If u look closely you will see where we grinded away the gelcoat and countersink the screws so when we add the 1708 to lock in the top skin into the existing deck along the cut line , the screws will not be noticed. Also down the sides we added braces that go from the stringers to the hull so the deck will have more support and allow us to lock the deck into these rib type braces.As you can see we had to remove some foam along the side of the hull to make room for the braces and enough room to glass them into the sides of the hull and the stringer. The reason why we did this is because we noticed the gap between the stringers was to far and over time people standing in this area along with the pounding would cause the floor to possibly separate from the top skin as well as the gelcoat repair would crack once it starts to flex.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMG_1717.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMG_1719.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMG_1730.jpg)
I have more pictures I will update you with shortly just waiting for Allen to send them
Thanks for all your patience with the updates stay tuned !
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Hello again all aquasport lovers!!!
Just wanted to go over a few things done this weekend. Saturday Morning we were able to dry fit all of the pieces for the floor and make sure all of the lap joints were correct. I did not lock the pieces in place because we have decided to switch from standard gp or boat yard to epoxy, we are just waiting for it to come in via fedex. The epoxy we decided on was the system 3 because of their reputation and quality. because we have lap joints we wanted more strength at each seam instead of using standard boatyard, the other reason is because we decided to salvage the original nonskid skin we also wanted more bonding strength when locking this piece back down over the wood. On the back of each piece of wood we are putting down we will use a mat cloth to treat each piece. on the center piece that goes over the gas tank area we will use a heavier 1708 since there is a wide gap from stringer to stringer. I also noticed that the braces on top of the stringer that supports the deck are not square so we had to beef up the braces so the that the lap would sit square on both sides and we would not have the lap sit on the outside of the brace causing a weak spot in this area.
Talk about a pain in the you know what ! :evil:
just a little off subject regarding the deck we have landed on our trim tab system and steering which should be coming in via ups in a couple of days as well. the Uflex system for us seem to be a great fit I wanted to go away from seastar since I have used them in the past and just had too many issues. we will also be using uflex trim tab system as well.
thats it for now see ya soon :thumright:
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I bought the Uflex steering system and am very impressed. its well made, works well and is less money than the seastar. The only draw back is trying to find the right finish nut to mount the wheel, I think is is a 14mm which is not the standard 2 sizes. Waiting on my two finish nuts coming from edson. Let me know how the Uflex trim tabs work out for you, I almost went with them but opted for Lennco's which I have used for 10 plus years with very few problems.
Capt Matt
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Looking good! If you need some filler strips of the original nonskid, just let me know.
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Quick question if anyone has installed a leani ng post or has some ideas..... I am currently doing measurements for my leaning post. The width of the console is 33 1/2 at the top an 43 1/2 inches at the bottom . Should i take the leaning post 1 inch past the console regarding width on each side? Or should it be even with the console? As far as the height of the leaning post i notice that the leaning are just under the steering wheel.... Which i think is a good height.... As far as which leaning post i am going with seaspension , it is 3 times as much as the normal pedastal but and this is a big but , the seaspension takes all of the wave shock out of an offshore ride! After measuring the leaning post i will have 22 inches of space each side for walk around space if i make the leaning post 35 1/2.
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Sorry for the long delay I have had some problems with getting my pics uploaded.
we have done alot of work and I have wanted to post my pics ,currently we have some video as well just cleaning up so you guys have some step by step stuff that we have done with the deck and some brace work.
I hope to have this fixed soon
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Hey guys sorry for the long delay it has beena few months and lots of things have been done..... the deck has been finished with the original non skid put back in place. all of the pics for the rebuild can be seen on our site including video ... once I get a chance I will post more about the rebuild and what has been done so far. be back soon.
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Hello everyone!! .... since my last post we have been busy finishing the deck and waiting for more product to come in..... As of now we have finished all of our deck and added the new poly tank by Moeller. We have also locked the factory non skid back down with System Three epoxy and we only have to do the finish work around the cut line when we removed the fiberglass off of the original deck, we are just waiting on some more epoxy that will allow us to gelcoat over over this area....here are some pics of what has been done so far.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMG_1806.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMG_1804.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/cleanup20deck20prep.jpg)
this next pic is the back of the center deck .. because this area was going to have alot of weight on it we decided to double up our 1708 to add more strength
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/glass20back20side.jpg)
this is the install of the Moeller tank I also included a pic of the straping that we built up to support the tank
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/tank20overview.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/tank20padding.jpg)
since the drying time for the epoxy was very short when we put down the factory non skid I was unable to get any pics of the process because we had to work so fast. in a nut shell we used a non sagging epoxy and spreaded this over the whole area we then laid the skin back down and used screws and cement blocks to wieght this area down until it cured completely
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/original20factory20non20skid20down.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/non20skid20on.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/non20skid20in202.jpg)
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As you can see there is a 2 inch area all the way around where we grinded down the gelcoat smooth.... we will fill the cut line with more epoxy and since system three makes a epoxy that you can gelcoat over without the gelcoat cracking or peeling we will use this product so that we can get the cut line area pretty much back to normal...... the only difference is that instead of losing all of our Factory non skid we will only lose about a 2-3 inch line around the deck which we will color match to the original gelcoat so it looks nice and clean again... stay tuned we will post more pics and links to all of the indepth youtube videos we have shot so far along with other installs as we finish our rebuild... to get a more indepth idea apout the rebuild and technical info we have those articles listed on our website under the rebuild for this boat. thanks
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Lookin' good Native. :thumleft:
For those who didn't already know, the 1994 model year was the first for the Euro transom design.
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Thanks Capt Bob ...... Actually its funny that you say that about the Euro design.. that is why we went with this boat not too mention the fact that I knew the stringer system was built very well.... as you can see from the pics the stringer system is molded into the hull making it super strong the only problem I have seen with the design was the fact that they used shop scraps to piece together the deck.... I know this to be a fact because I spoke to one of the glass guys who actually put these decks in and he mention this process without me even asking him how they did the decks on these boats. When I showed him the pics of all the square pieces of wood he told me that was a common practice for them to use scrap from the wood shop... he was telling me they had huge 50 gallon barrels they would keep these scraps in and would use them on all of these decks......The one tricky part about putting this deck back in was they didnt have any bracing since the floor was molded in as well making it very difficult to get this deck lined up ..... talk about a pain, it wasnt easy let me tell ya! I should have some pics and what we are going to do with the console this weekend since this will be changed around... I also noticed the 2 large hatches on fish boxes on the front were starting to rot so I will cut into those on thursday... :D
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This is the tank hatch cover on my 91 WAC. You can see the squares rather than a solid sheet.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC04839.jpg)
Repaired with ply.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff108/r-berlin/DSC00060.jpg)
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Great job!
Glad you mentioned the difference between gelcoat and the finish material you will use on the decks. The manufacturer referred to it as "epoxy compatible."
Looking forward to seeing it finished out. Thanks!
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Hello again!!!.... WOW its late but we wanted to add some new updates about the rebuild along with a couple of pics. Currently we have just finished the last of the hatches that needed repair, as well as some rotten wood that was found on the splash well wall just behind the live well. This area was so saturated that the core just fell apart in my hands. The moisture was so bad when we took the battery switch screws out of the wall water just poured out! Im guess that the livewell splashed over causing this area to rot very easy and it didnt help that the factory used the scrap wood again in this part of the boat making water intrusion very easy. Im also sensing a pattern with the methode that they used with the scraps and that is it doesnt work very well!!! After cleaning out the rotten core we added nida core instead of wood for this area as well as the front hatches that needed work.
Now that the majority of our glass work is coming to an end and now we are sarting to get into some of the fun stuff!
As of this week we picked up our leaning post, and let me tell you this thing is awesome! seaspension with bench style seating, it doesnt get any better. not only did peter do one hell of a job on this seat, you can just see the craftmanship and quality from top to bottom. We decided on the seaspension because of the shock mitigation design they have created for the pedestals. This system takes out most if not all of the shock on those rough days out on the water. We all know what Im talking about, your riding in rough water and all of a sudden the you get that wave hitting you from the side or in the front and makes that slap into the wave that makes the whole boat vibrate! And I dont care what kind oif boat your in it happens sooner or later. When it does it make for a not so enjoyable ride. What the seaspension does is it takes away that banging and absorbs it in the pedastal just like a car shock would. So here is a pic of the leaning post.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMAG0226.jpg)
Seaspension Owner peter in the shop
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee401/provb28/IMAG0228.jpg)
We are going to get after it again tomorrow as long as we can stay dry. We will keep you posted along with a detailed install of the leaning post..... Reggie C. tight lines everyone!
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Nice bench :salut:
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Bench envy indeed...
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Hey all, I'm getting ready to get back to work on the Osprey and will be updating soon. I had to take some time off, as business got in the way. I just bought a used 400 hour Merc 250XL EFI in super great shape with 145 PSI on all cylinders. It looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor. Anyone know the proper mounting depth? I'm taking the boat to them to mount it, and I'd like to get it right first time around. If possible, please be precise in detail. The shop said the prop shaft should be at the bottom of the Euro transom. I'm looking for someone that has this boat and can tell me where their motor is mounted, or someone that knows for certain. Thanks!
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I believe I answered your question in your other post, but, I'll say it here. 25" shaft motor, 2nd hole down. It doesn't say the hole location in the CD I have, I just know...I used to hang motors on the 225!
Looks great, she changed a bit from '94 on. If you can, I'd swap out the starboard transom access box from the one you have to the newer style, say circa '96 or so. All starboard construction, just allows a lot easier access to the trim tab pump, the fuse box, etc.
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Here is a pic of my 200 ox66 on my 225
(http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q223/Pete1681/Photo1133.jpg)
I can get you more pics if you need them,can't wait to see the finished project.Nice work :cheers:
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That's top hole right there Pete. When I was hanging them, all motors were second hole down...and your's is a 25" shaft.
Scott, where is your motor mounted on your Explorer? Bryan, where's your's located on your 245?
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Second hole down
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Hey all, sorry for the long delay for those that were following along on this build. The time off was used collecting product for the build, and doing some minor glass and gel coat work. Here's what I've been up to. The step by step build details are on my site if you want to read them. Click the "Project Osprey" banner on the front page.
The deck was finished up this week. I laid two ounce and a half mats down, sanded smooth and gel coated as shown below.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/deck_seam_final-1.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/deck_seam_final-1.jpg.html)
Here are some pics of the transom work.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/transomerot1.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/transomerot1.jpg.html)
Had to fill some top rot. Removed all the metal and filled all the gaps with system three epoxy.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/transomrotcleanup.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/transomrotcleanup.jpg.html)
Cut into the gel coat to lay 1708
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/20130127_131632.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/20130127_131632.jpg.html)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/20130126_174614.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/20130126_174614.jpg.html)
Laid the glass. I used system three bonding agent over the epoxy to help it bond better, but it really doesn't matter, as that area is only acting as a cap.
Feathered out the uneven areas with marine putty
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/sandedputtytransom.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/sandedputtytransom.jpg.html)
Sprayed the gel coat about 33 mils thick, dyed it purple and sand smooth to about 26 mils until the dye disappeared. Used 320, 400, and 600 grit to finish to a smooth glossy finish
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/gelcoatdye.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/gelcoatdye.jpg.html)
During sanding
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/gelcoatdye2.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/gelcoatdye2.jpg.html)
Final buff
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/20130207_174507.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/20130207_174507.jpg.html)
Found a real good deal on a flawless 2002 Merc EFI with 350 hours. Dropped it on the newly restored transom and it looks great!
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/Motor1.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/Motor1.jpg.html)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/Motor2.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/Motor2.jpg.html)
Of course, dropped the hull on a newly built Rolls Axle Tandem trailer that looks stunning and pulls her around like a queen. When I picked this beauty up it brought a smile to my face, like buying a new car. Heck, even my wife said it was beautiful! If anyone is ever looking for a trailer, I urge you to check out Rolls, as you'll never go back once you own one..This is my third, and all still in perfect working order.
Next I had to make room for a whole lot of electronics so I decided to build a console extension, but first I had to make a plug for the mold, so I got some foam and went to town.
I glued together some 8 inch strips of home depot Styrofoam large enough for the part.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/foam_block.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/foam_block.jpg.html)
Took some panel wood and traced the console shape, cut it out, then screwed them on either side of the foam. I built a homemade hot knife with 44 pound leader and a power source, then just traced the templates to get the outer shape.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/20130403_232040.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/20130403_232040.jpg.html)
I then made templates for the shape. I wanted a lip on the top. the tricky part was that the part had three face angles, so i had to cut the block into three pieces to get all three face angles flat across the face.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/20130404_144536.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/20130404_144536.jpg.html)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/20130404_145551.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/20130404_145551.jpg.html)
I used some 20 minute joint compound to harden the foam a bit, and shape it a little more.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/20130404_154758.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/20130404_154758.jpg.html)
I sprayed a few coats of hard finish varnish over it, then used packing tape to cover it all, followed by a coat of olive oil, and started packing on the 20 minute joint compound.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/20130411_161022.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/20130411_161022.jpg.html)
I made the thickness around 1.5 inches, and put a few layers of mesh tape in there to keep the plug together when cutting through it later. The open part is the bottom, which will just be a small lip so i can bolt it to the console.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/20130411_164131.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/20130411_164131.jpg.html)
After it dried for 2 days, I traced a line down the center and cut it apart. If you've never done this, read the details on my site, as you have to be careful with positive angles or the part won't come out. In this case, I really didn't care, as I could pour some Acetone in the plug and melt the foam worse case. It did come out easy however.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/20130416_142035.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/20130416_142035.jpg.html)
Here's the final mold off the plug. I did a little sanding and then sprayed it with primer. I really also didn't care much about a real smooth surface at this point either, as it's easier to sand and fill the part once you mold it and pull it out.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/20130416_163230.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/20130416_163230.jpg.html)
This is the final part before gel coat. It has been sanded, filled, and some cutouts done. Notice the 2 circles on the back...those are where the T Top bars cross the window area and actually butted up to this piece, so i had to make room.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/20130420_202631.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/20130420_202631.jpg.html)
And here is the final part after gel and sand.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/ext_final.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/ext_final.jpg.html)
Here's the part sitting on the console. I also did the console, as there were 2 big holes on the face where the old electronics used to be, as well as the steering and binnacle, and a few other holes. On the left, I left that hole there to make glassing easier, rather than climbing under the console. On the extension piece, there will be 4 sets of carling rockers on the right, the BEP CZone switching system interface screen in the center, and a 7 inch Faria Mach 7 touchscreen gauge and monitoring system on the left. The console will have a Lowrance HDS 12 touch on the left, and a 12 inch marine touch panel pc with software radar on the right. That's about it for now. Next step is getting a new T Top made, and moving on to all the electronic installations...and there's a ton of that!
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/ext_on.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Boat%20Build/ext_on.jpg.html)
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In case anyone is wondering, here's the list of products that I am putting on the boat.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/BEP.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/BEP.jpg.html)
Full digital switching system on a NMEA 2000 network to work with the HDS 12.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/golight-led.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/golight-led.jpg.html)
Remote controlled LED spotlight. To read the review: http://www.floridainshoreangler.com/fishing-marine-products/marine-led-spotlight
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/moeller.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/moeller.jpg.html)
My 102 gallon fuel tank. Moeller had one only a half inch shorter than my original. To read Review: http://www.floridainshoreangler.com/fishing-marine-products/marine-fuel-tanks-plastic-vs-aluminium-the-pros-and-cons-debate
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/systemthree.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/systemthree.jpg.html)
What's holding the boat together. Easy to use and reliable system.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/rolls.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/rolls.jpg.html)
Nothing but the best for this build...Rolls Axle Tandem trailer all hand made by Dan. My third Rolls trailer and only brand I'll ever buy.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/seaspension.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/seaspension.jpg.html)
Seaspension leaning post bench. Gotta protect that back on 70 mile runs, and I think this is the best option available. Only a sea trial will tell.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/uflex.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/uflex.jpg.html)
UFlex Silversteer steering, and trim tabs set. Out of all the steering systems I've seen, I can't say that I've seen a sexier system out there, nor one that appears to have the quality of this system. To read the Uflex Trim Tab review http://www.floridainshoreangler.com/fishing-marine-products/electric-trim-tabs-uflex-electromechanical-trim-tabs To read the Uflex Silversteer steering system http://www.floridainshoreangler.com/fishing-marine-products/hydraulic-boat-steering-uflex-silversteer-outboard-steering
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/pkp.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/pkp.jpg.html)
DSS PKP keypads
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/snapper.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/snapper.jpg.html)
Snapper remote control boat latch
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/hydromotiveprops.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/hydromotiveprops.jpg.html)
Hydromotive 4 blade prop - These are built and designed by Todd. He does a ton of work with racing teams, so I'm pretty sure I made a good selection here as well.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Faria_gauges.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/Faria_gauges.jpg.html)
Faria Mach-7 instrument gauge and monitoring touch screen
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/pacer_wire.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/pacer_wire.jpg.html)
Type 3 marine tinned wire from Pacer for the entire boat.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/teleflex.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/teleflex.jpg.html)
Teleflex control cables and binnacle
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/lowrance_hds.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/lowrance_hds.jpg.html)
Lowrance HDS Gen2 12 inch Touch, Sonic Hub, 1 kw transducer, structure scan, remote GPS puck, etc. This will be the head of the NMEA network, which will be able to display and control the CZone switches, as well as gauges if I want to show them there, but I will have those on the Mach 7.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/noland.jpg) (http://s434.photobucket.com/user/clubsohotan/media/noland.jpg.html)
NoLand RS 11, the key element in putting my analog motor in a NMEA network for digital gauges and monitoring.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/discount_boat_tops.jpg)
I had Discount Boat tops make my Navy blue T Top canvas a few days ago. I haven't installed it yet, but it looks sweet. I am also planning to have Discount do the full wrap around canvas with Isen glass and bat wings when I wrap this project up.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/johnson_pump.jpg)
I just picked up 2 2200 bilge pumps, a 5.2 wash down kit, and two 750 GPH bait well pumps with aeration nozzle. I'll be installing them as soon as i get my oil hose and a fe other things. I have to make a very tough journey into the transom of the boat, and I only want to do it one time. It has plenty of space to fit 2 people in the hull, but getting down there is tough and tight.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/racor.jpg)
No boat is compete without a Racor, so I picked up one of these as well. I just can't go back to using standard filters. It's nice to see the water in the bottom of the system and be able to drain it.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/water_witch.jpg)
The water witch electronic bilge switch is something new for me, as I've always used standard floats. I've heard too many people having issues with the all in one bilge pumps lately, so I thought I give this a try. Anyone use this yet?
I still have to figure out who will do my T Top, canvas, windlass, and a few other things. I'll keep you updates as I start installing product.
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Nice work. :salut:
That molding process is pretty cool. I haven't gone to your site to look yet but I'm guessing you ended up with 2 pieces that you glued/glassed together?
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Interesting, Noland can take analog motors and get them in the NMEA 2K network...love to see how they do that!
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Nice work. :salut:
That molding process is pretty cool. I haven't gone to your site to look yet but I'm guessing you ended up with 2 pieces that you glued/glassed together?
Yeah, molding is fun. What I did was glassed both sides while it was open and let it kick a bit, then put the two pieces together, clamped in place, then glassed together and popped the mold. Turned out rally nice. I went a little excessive with 3 layers of 1708 and a matte, but you could park a car on it and it would hold up! lol
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Interesting, Noland can take analog motors and get them in the NMEA 2K network...love to see how they do that!
It's all about the software. I spoke to Maretron, the people that pretty much build all others NMEA products, and they know NoLand well and backed them. I'll let you know how it works out.
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Looks great so far. You said you had a site? What is the name or address?
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Interesting, Noland can take analog motors and get them in the NMEA 2K network...love to see how they do that!
It's all about the software. I spoke to Maretron, the people that pretty much build all others NMEA products, and they know NoLand well and backed them. I'll let you know how it works out.
I would imagine it's something akin to Zukes, like the 200/225/250, where you can either have the data from the BCM output as analog or digital. Your Merc has an ECU, so it has the digital info, just need to interface it to the N2K network...
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Looks great so far. You said you had a site? What is the name or address?
Thanks. www.floridainshoreangler.com (http://www.floridainshoreangler.com)
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Interesting, Noland can take analog motors and get them in the NMEA 2K network...love to see how they do that!
It's all about the software. I spoke to Maretron, the people that pretty much build all others NMEA products, and they know NoLand well and backed them. I'll let you know how it works out.
I would imagine it's something akin to Zukes, like the 200/225/250, where you can either have the data from the BCM output as analog or digital. Your Merc has an ECU, so it has the digital info, just need to interface it to the N2K network...
There are two ways to do it, and one is to go from the service port on the ECU, but that takes some special conversion software as well, which is available, or just use the sensors on the motor and connect to the RS11 box and let it do the work.
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Cool! A lot of owners would love to get their older motor data displayed on their MFDs...
And BTW, excellent work on the transom cap! Looks like an Intrepid!!! :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
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Cool! A lot of owners would love to get their older motor data displayed on their MFDs...
And BTW, excellent work on the transom cap! Looks like an Intrepid!!! :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
The digital world is certainly finding its way aboard boats. Once I get mine installed and work out all the issues, if there are any, I am going to write an article of the install with pics and video. Wait until you see the BEP and Faria systems..wow...so sweet! Thanks for the good word. I worked hard on that transom!
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Allen,
Have Faria and BEP teamed up on a project? As late as '10, BEP was repped by Wm. F. Miller, Faria by J.B. Dunn. I know at that time Faria already had direct replacement gauges for Smartcraft, and had just come out with replacements for Suzuki SMIS gauges (since SMIS is just LMF-400s with Zuke software, probably could've done I-Command as well). We were going to do a Faria install on a pair of Zuke 175s but Faria's harness interfacing needed a bit of work, so we stuck with SMIS...
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Allen,
Have Faria and BEP teamed up on a project? As late as '10, BEP was repped by Wm. F. Miller, Faria by J.B. Dunn. I know at that time Faria already had direct replacement gauges for Smartcraft, and had just come out with replacements for Suzuki SMIS gauges (since SMIS is just LMF-400s with Zuke software, probably could've done I-Command as well). We were going to do a Faria install on a pair of Zuke 175s but Faria's harness interfacing needed a bit of work, so we stuck with SMIS...
Bob, I don't think BEP and Faria have connected, at least not that I have heard of. I know Faria doesn't make the conversion from analog to digital only due to not having a built in power source, which is why I had to bring in NoLand to make that conversion work, but they do have the smartcraft and other OEM compatible gauges.
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Just gel coated the entire console today, now just sand and buff and I'll be ready to start cutting new holes for all my toys to mount! I'll put pics up soon.
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I wouldn't think so either Allen. The guy who used to run JB Dunn, Chris Byal, is now with GSW & Assoc., I'm sure he took his accounts (Faria included) with him...
If you're not set in stone on equipment placement, I'd make cardboard templates of the electronics flat, helm and binnacle flat, etc., to do some playing around...
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I wouldn't think so either Allen. The guy who used to run JB Dunn, Chris Byal, is now with GSW & Assoc., I'm sure he took his accounts (Faria included) with him...
If you're not set in stone on equipment placement, I'd make cardboard templates of the electronics flat, helm and binnacle flat, etc., to do some playing around...
I built the extension piece for specific electronics, and the lower console will be the 12 inch HDS touch over the helm, and a PC panel opposite. I do have a few other products that I may do the cardboard templates with, as I don't yet know where to mount those.
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Hey guys...back with some more updates. Just got my Lowrance HDS 12 touch Gen2 and decided to cut the hole before I installed my console extension that I built earlier.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/Lowrance%20HDS%2012%20Gen2%20Touch/20130520_135457.jpg)
I also got the external GPS pod, a 1kw xducer, and the sonic hub. I'll have those images as I install them.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/Lowrance%20HDS%2012%20Gen2%20Touch/20130602_175918.jpg)
It was a tight fit but i got it.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/Lowrance%20HDS%2012%20Gen2%20Touch/20130602_180900.jpg)
I dropped it in dry, along with the Uflex Silversteer helm and Teleflex binnacle to see how they all played together. Turned out pretty good. I need to mention that the UFlex steering helm is one heavy helm, which is a good thing, as it speaks quality. I'm really looking forward to getting the Uflex Silversteer under load. I think it's going to be everything I was looking for.
Next I had to get ready to install the BEP digital switching system, and rather than spending the day inside the console, I decided to install a few hatches that I picked up from High Tide Manufacturing. Here's the order I put in with Hight Tide.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/Hight%20Tide%20Manufacturing/20130606_153744.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/Hight%20Tide%20Manufacturing/20130606_154018.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/Hight%20Tide%20Manufacturing/20130606_153947.jpg)
I got two flush mount tackle centers, one large around for the bow step up, and one smaller for the transom, a flush mount wash down kit, a shallow dry box, a drop in dry storage tub, a trash can hatch along with various sized hatches, and various sized deck plates. These hatches and accessories seem very well made. The material is heavy, solid hinges, very good quality latching handles, and they seat well into the sealed rings.
So now on to the BEP install. I cut the front of the console where the backrest for the seat will be so I could mount all the modules inside for easy access.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/Hight%20Tide%20Manufacturing/20130609_123747.jpg)
I Installed a removable hatch rather than one with hinges just so it wouldn't be in the way.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/Hight%20Tide%20Manufacturing/20130609_130126.jpg)
I also installed a side door where the old fire extinguisher used to be to gain access to the backside of the module board, as I will be installed the electronic battery switches, NMEA cabling, power, and other things on this side. I'll have pics when I get to this side.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/Hight%20Tide%20Manufacturing/20130609_130351.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/Hight%20Tide%20Manufacturing/20130609_184833.jpg)
Now the fun part; installing the signals boxes and power modules. Oh wait, here's the switches on the helm first.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/BEP/20130609_200433.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/BEP/20130609_200422.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/BEP/20130609_201914.jpg)
Those are the 16 switches that wire into the signal interfaces. Below is the power modules being installed.
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/BEP/20130609_213354.jpg)
(http://i434.photobucket.com/albums/qq61/clubsohotan/Boat%20Build/BEP/20130609_230400.jpg)
The images above show the power modules and interfaces without their covers. I'll finish up the module aspect of the install tomorrow and post the final wired in products. There are three more modules mounted on the side walls, as I didn't have enough room to put them all on the face board. It's a lot of modules and communication between them, but the end result is a very smart NMEA 2000 system that integrates with my HDS 12 and other products.
I'll have an update on the full BEP system install, as we are getting very close to wrapping it up. As soon as the Johnson bilge pumps come in, I'll be installing them and then moving to the Uflex full install, as well as the Teleflex cables.
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Looking good :salut:
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Wow,that a lot of hatches!Can't wait to see it finished.Very nice work :salut:
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Thanks Rick and Pete. It sure is a lot of hatches, and I still have another 3 or so to get, but they are odd ball sizes that I can't seem to find right now. Thankfully Hight Tide had pretty much everything I needed in one stop. The search continues...
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Hey all, sorry for the delay again...just got busy with work, and the rain hasn't let up much in the last few weeks. I managed to get some done over the last few days and will post when I wrap up the battery install, switches, pumps, etc.
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Hey guys, to anyone that was interested in this build, sorry for the delay...been a busy year running my own business, trying to finish my book, and trying to work on the boat in this crazy weather. I have recently spent some time on it, and will post those soon. Hope everyone had a great New Year!
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Don't sweat being busy we all have a life. I have had to put off my rebuild for some time due to weather and life. Just get busy and give us some boat porn. :mrgreen: