New project 1971 proline flatback. First decision engine bracket.

[Conrad4784]

New to this forum.  Thank you in advance for any advise given.  I picked up a 1971 proline flat back since they are close to the aquasports figured yall could help me out as I go through this project.  I was looking to pick up a portabracket for the proline but those things cost about as much as the entire project.  I have heard these boats run a little better with the engine setback.  The new transom is enclosed so I will need to get some kind of bracket.  I wanted to see if anyone has run a 36inch armstrong bracket with a jackplate mounted between the engine and bracket?  I could pick up both on marketplace for half the cost of a used porta bracket with less setback. any thoughts?  the engine I have is a 225hp Yamaha 2 stroke.  I'm not sure how much that will make the boat sit in the rear.   

[RickK]

Conrad, I'm going to move your topic into the forum where you might get advice from other Proline owners. Not blowing you off, as you said they are kinda similar, so we can and will give you sound rebuild advice.

[RickK]

Did you do the rebuild?  Looks real nice. What is the height of the transom?

[Conrad4784]

Thank you Rick I cant take credit for the ransom the previous owner did a good job with the glass work but got burnt out on the project and/or didn't have the time to finish.  it is a 30inch transom.  Thank you for moving the post for me. Just seeing if anyone has done a bracket with jackplate setup and if they were pleased with the ride.

[Ulysses485]

Hello and welcome to the forum Conrad. How do you plan to use the boat and where are you located?  Porta bracket is designed to get in to the shallowest of shallows and jump out in the shallows as well. However, I feel the need is primarily those looking for tarpon, redfish, etc. and in the flats on the west coast of Florida. The shallows on the east coast of Florida and up the coast don’t seem to have as much of the same need for it because the water doesn’t have such a slow drop off as it does in the gulf. I live in north central floria and it seems people back home in Miami only know of Armstrong brackets and jack plates. Keep in mind that brackets can be made with different amounts of flotation in them so they can be made to accommodate the loading.

Hope that input helps.

Ulysses

[RickK]

What length FB is it? Looking at the image with your truck it seems to be a 22?

[Conrad4784]

its a 24ft flatback

[Conrad4784]

Hello and welcome to the forum Conrad. How do you plan to use the boat and where are you located?  Porta bracket is designed to get in to the shallowest of shallows and jump out in the shallows as well. However, I feel the need is primarily those looking for tarpon, redfish, etc. and in the flats on the west coast of Florida. The shallows on the east coast of Florida and up the coast don’t seem to have as much of the same need for it because the water doesn’t have such a slow drop off as it does in the gulf. I live in north central floria and it seems people back home in Miami only know of Armstrong brackets and jack plates. Keep in mind that brackets can be made with different amounts of flotation in them so they can be made to accommodate the loading.

Hope that input helps.



Ulysses

Thank you for the response
I fish the intercostal areas mainly st Augustine up to Fernandina.  Sometimes it gets pretty shallow but i dont run with much speed once it gets 2ft depth or shallower.   I have almost got stuck a few times with my 22ft hydrasport bay boat which drafts about 11 inches. My main concern is being able to tilt the motor up with out hitting the enclosed transom, and raising the motor when in shallow creeks fishing for red/flounder.  With that said I also fish the jetties for sheep head and whatever is biting.

[Ulysses485]

I would think you could get away with a fixed bracket and jack plate where you are.  You wouldn’t have issues clearing the transom with a typical Armstrong bracket. Depending on when you are looking to repower, might want to scan the internet and look for a used porta bracket as they get sold here and there for 1500-2500. Keep us posted.

[Conrad4784]

Well I thought the glass work on the transom was good but it wasn't.  The previous owner did pretty good work with the 5 flayer of glass but it looks like something went wrong when he tried to install the coosa board. It was not fun grinding all of that glass out.  There are a few spots that I im going to fill with some peanut butter style resin, then glass in the perimeter, followed by 5 layers of mat over the entire transom.  then i will need to add about 3 additional layer to the bottom third of the transom because its low all the way across.  What do yall typically do for the top cap on the transom, should i leave a couple strips at the top to glass the cap into the transom.  Or do yall make your transom cap to screw in like the rest of the boat and the rubrail covers it?  Would yall wrap glass over the top of the transom even though a cap will be installed.  thanks

[Ulysses485]

I’m sorry to hear about the experience you are having from the previous owners work.

Regarding the build back, I would stick to 1708,1808, etc. or structural biaxial glass 1700,1800 (depends on Polyester resin vs Epoxy resin choice AND what he used….because if epoxy was used, then epoxy it is). Mat will not give you much strength and considering the exterior skin was cut out, that’s most important to build backend tie to existing. Mat is used more on parts and to eliminate fairing of weave in the cloth (used as a last layer so the surface lays out flatter). You want to wrap the transom to tie to existing exterior hull skin.
Here is a sketch I did a while back of a similar situation …



Just my .02…hope that helps.

How does the inside tabbing look from the Coosa core to the sides and bottom of hull?

Ulysses

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Oh man, that was painful to read. When I looked at the first picture I thought the glass work looked pretty good. Guess you never know until you really dive into it.

So all the coosa is ripped out now? What's left? The inside skin only?

[RickK]

That sucks.
IMO, to save time and effort, I would take a sawzall and cut the transom skin out instead of trying to repair it. I'd remove the Plascore knees between the transom and the Plascore inner transom (to give you some working room) and then grind everything down to prepare for new glass.
Next I would plan leaning a sheet of melamine against the aft of the boat, clamp it to the hull and then use that as a mold to build your new perfectly flat transom from the inside. You can spray the inside with PVA mold release or wax the inside so the melamine is easy to get off.
3 layers of 1708 is enough overlapped on the sides and bottom at least 3", 6" and 9" (4,8,12 is normal). Then glue/clamp in the new transom core and finally add 3 more layers of 1708 to the inside. Now you'll have a solid transom. You'll have a little fairing to do on the outside along the edges but that will be easy.

[Conrad4784]

Oh man, that was painful to read. When I looked at the first picture I thought the glass work looked pretty good. Guess you never know until you really dive into it.

So all the coosa is ripped out now? What's left? The inside skin only?

I removed the 6 layers of 1708 from the outside of the boat It is still all glassed inside the boat.  the Glass work looked okay it was when he bonded the coosa that the issues happened.

[Conrad4784]

I’m sorry to hear about the experience you are having from the previous owners work.

Regarding the build back, I would stick to 1708,1808, etc. or structural biaxial glass 1700,1800 (depends on Polyester resin vs Epoxy resin choice AND what he used….because if epoxy was used, then epoxy it is). Mat will not give you much strength and considering the exterior skin was cut out, that’s most important to build backend tie to existing. Mat is used more on parts and to eliminate fairing of weave in the cloth (used as a last layer so the surface lays out flatter). You want to wrap the transom to tie to existing exterior hull skin.
Here is a sketch I did a while back of a similar situation …



Just my .02…hope that helps.

How does the inside tabbing look from the Coosa core to the sides and bottom of hull?

Ulysses

I have a couple rolls of 1708 I planned on using to repair the top cap but Ill use it for the transom and buy more.  I will need to grind away the gelcoat on the inside to check but I think it will be okay.  The floor he did has little to no air bubbles and the 5 to 6 layer of 1708 on the exterior was mostly air free it was the bond between the 1708 and coosa that went wrong.  Poly was used in the build so that's what I'm going to use for the resin.