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Author Topic: help for trim tabs  (Read 2217 times)

December 01, 2010, 11:17:37 AM
Reply #15

MarshMarlowe196

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Re: help for trim tabs
« Reply #15 on: December 01, 2010, 11:17:37 AM »
Quote from: "fitz73222"
I would make the wedges about about 3-4" wide and run the them the width of the livewell from the inner edge to the edge of the chine step. They will need to be knife edged at the leading edge and 1/4-3/8 thick at the trailing edge to get started. Hold them in place with 4 #8 oval head screws. You may have to 5200 the leading edge to keep it from being ripped off during trials. In order to measure progress, take a small level and tape it the floor on the port side and see if the running attitude changes as you add more wedge until she levels up. If you think that 3/8 wedge is not enough to start with maybe be go with 1/2-5/8 thick at the trailing edge and sand it back until she levels out. This is seat of your pants engineering but I think the concept is feasible. Can't wait to hear the results. Good luck

Man that's a great idea Fitz.  The K.I.S.S concept- I like it.  I'll do it exactly this way and I'll keep you updated.  It's a little cold for running the boat right now, and I'm sensitive and shiver easily so it might have to wait until next year.  I'll get the Pad/Hooks together over the winter- add it to the list of off-season projects.


Quote from: "GoneFission"
Here's my $0.02 - I think your baitwells are acting as trim tabs. They look to be about in line with the hull bottom - I believe when Aquasport put those on the original boats, they were raised up a bit so they did not affect the boat on plane. Your mounting could actually be helping you get to plane quicker...

So you might want to try putting your hook on the baitwell. I would try a piece of 1/2" thick starboard glued to the bottom of the baitwell...

You're right John- I believe they are acting like tabs, and as Fitz mentioned, I believe they were intended to.  I'm probably going to go with Starboard over wood, because it's on the bottom of the well and won't take away from the boat cosmetically, and I wont have to go to the trouble of glassing it.

Quote from: "fitz73222"
The baitwells on my 22-2 are original factory installation and have a 5-10 degree downward rake towards the rear which in fact act as trim tabs. They are mounted flush with bottom at the transom and tilt down towards the rear. I think the intent of the rake was to facilitate good water flow at high speed combined with a slight angular drill pattern to help scoop up water when running. I have watched these wells at high speed and it looks like a washing machine in there. Hearty baits like pinfish, mullet, shrimp and pigfish seem to do fine. Pogys get beat up pretty bad.

That's exactly why I changed my wells they way I did.  I added a simple in-line manually adjustable valve so I'd be able to change the flow speed of the water entering the pick-up tube.  I have a video of my wells in action in my photobucket album if you're interested.

Thanks again  :salut:
Key West 1720 / Yam C90

Sold: 1973 Aquasport 19-6

December 01, 2010, 11:28:40 AM
Reply #16

fitz73222

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Re: help for trim tabs
« Reply #16 on: December 01, 2010, 11:28:40 AM »
I am thinking of changing mine over to a bronze through hull type intake about 1 1/4 diameter. Cross drilling four 1/4" holes just above the nut on the inside of the well and add a threaded cap which I can screw all the way down to shut off the water or screw it out to expose part or all the holes to control water flow. My only concern was will I get enough water flow when anchored up at rest to keep the bait alive.
1973 Aquasport 22-2, twin 115 Mercs
2000 Baycraft 175 flats boat, 60 Bigfoot Merc
1968 Boston Whaler 13, 25 Yamaha (project)
1966 Orlando Clipper 13, 9.9 Merc

December 01, 2010, 12:03:24 PM
Reply #17

MarshMarlowe196

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Re: help for trim tabs
« Reply #17 on: December 01, 2010, 12:03:24 PM »
1-1/4 hole seems really big, but if you can adjust it, seems like it would work.  I've got a 1/2" PVC pipe that goes through the bottom of the well with a shaved angled-fwd edge that protrudes about 1/4" past the bottom of the well (no clamshell pickup - that's too much), and when I'm running, I still have to turn down the flow of water.  

I've only got two waterline holes - I think I need more.  I'm going to go with six on each well because I don't feel like I'm getting enough flow at rest.

Good luck!
Key West 1720 / Yam C90

Sold: 1973 Aquasport 19-6

December 02, 2010, 08:45:54 AM
Reply #18

Tabman

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Re: help for trim tabs
« Reply #18 on: December 02, 2010, 08:45:54 AM »
Quote from: "tbhobe"
I have a 170 Aquasport with trim tabs but shortly after I bought my boat the trim tab pump died I looked on ebay but the cost for a new pump was to high I found that there is a kit with preloaded shocks that replace the old ram and now my boat rides and get on a plane better than when the trim tabs worked  I hope you all might try this  no more switch to try to set right no more pump and rams that fail over time   good luck
                                                     tbhobe

Tbhobe,

Sorry I'm a bit late in responding. Do you still have the pump and know about how old it is? And do you know why it failed? I can arrange a trade in on the old unit that will save you quite a bit of money and get your system running again.  

Hold up well for many years and I would not worry too much about other parts failing, for example we can send replacement O-rings for the actuators (rams) at no cost and they are easy to replace.

Let me know if you have the old unit and I will be delighted to see what I can do to help.

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine


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December 02, 2010, 08:53:52 AM
Reply #19

Tabman

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Re: help for trim tabs
« Reply #19 on: December 02, 2010, 08:53:52 AM »
Quote from: "MarshMarlowe196"
Quote from: "fitz73222"
Try running the boat with the transom livewell lids open and see if one is over filling or underfilling. I believe the previous owner on my 22-2 had this problem and corrected it with adding or filling a couple of holes until she leveled out. You havent coincidentilly changed the engine height or changed to a different prop recently? It is strange that the list has recently developed and nothing with the livewells has been altered. Which way does she list, to port or starboard? Does the list change as speed changes?

I just added the wells not long ago, and they're still really neat to watch so I watch them all the time  :roll:  .  They're both working fine.  I plumbed them in a way that overfilling or underfilling is not possible.  The holes are right at the waterline and equal in height on either well; as soon as the boat's in the water, the wells are full, and while on plane, they have no way of draining below the "at rest" waterline.

I had a slight list before I added the wells (prop spin?), but the list is worse now with the wells.  I think the problem is the way I rebuilt my transom.  Here's a pic:



I added a layer of wood to the outside of the transom, and the wells are overlapping the wood now.  When I installed the wells, I had to fill in the gap between the wells and the original transom.  The wells themselves have a slight downward pitch that's different from the hull (even with an original transom), so they naturally bring the bow down.  I think one of the wells is angled down slightly more than the other because of my new transom.

The boat lists to port, so I'm thinking if I add a pad (or a "hook" - thanks SB), that might correct the list... It's just hard to get something like that just right.  That's why I'd rather have tabs.

From looking at the picture, would it not be practical to add tabs between the wells and the motor?  Or would this not work?

Sorry to hijack this thread.  These things happen  :oops:

MarshMarlowe,

Yes installing Trim Tabs right up against the wells will work quite well (pardon the pun).  We have seen this type of installation done on many boats with good results.  The trick is to keep the inside edge of the Trim Tab more than 7" from the center-line of the outboard to prevent disturbing the water flow to the prop and water pickup.

Using a Trim Tab that has downward facing fins on the sides is particularly helpful in this type of installation.  The fins increase lift by capturing pressure that normally escapes out the edges and channeling it aft. Since there is less disturbance coming from the sides of the Trim Tabs we can get it a little closer to the lower unit without disturbing the water flow.

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine


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December 04, 2010, 11:50:59 AM
Reply #20

Boatdood

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Re: help for trim tabs
« Reply #20 on: December 04, 2010, 11:50:59 AM »
I have the distinct advantage of being able to walk outside and look at the boat in question. Yes, it's the live wells that are causing the list. In fact both of them are a bit lower at the aft end than at the leading edge but the one on the stbd side is more pronounced and creating more lift than the port side; therefore the resulting port list. I also worked at a dealership back in the early seventies that handled Aquasport and have seen them factory installed. They put them even with the bottom of the boat just as my son Jessie did. He did have to work around the transom job we did though and that made things a bit more difficult but the job still looks pretty good considering. I'd probably fare them in a bit and take the hook out but the easier way to tackle the issue is to put a bit of a wedge on the port well like Fitz suggests. I don't think it will take much and the boat will likely run a bit better at mid range like that anyway. I agree with the Bennett guy that there may be enough room to put tabs between the wells and the engine without interference but that's more bucks. The good news is it's not my bucks. Whatever you want to do buddy.

December 04, 2010, 06:14:11 PM
Reply #21

seabob4

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Re: help for trim tabs
« Reply #21 on: December 04, 2010, 06:14:11 PM »
Quote from: "Boatdood"
I have the distinct advantage of being able to walk outside and look at the boat in question. Yes, it's the live wells that are causing the list. In fact both of them are a bit lower at the aft end than at the leading edge but the one on the stbd side is more pronounced and creating more lift than the port side; therefore the resulting port list. I also worked at a dealership back in the early seventies that handled Aquasport and have seen them factory installed. They put them even with the bottom of the boat just as my son Jessie did. He did have to work around the transom job we did though and that made things a bit more difficult but the job still looks pretty good considering. I'd probably fare them in a bit and take the hook out but the easier way to tackle the issue is to put a bit of a wedge on the port well like Fitz suggests. I don't think it will take much and the boat will likely run a bit better at mid range like that anyway. I agree with the Bennett guy that there may be enough room to put tabs between the wells and the engine without interference but that's more bucks. The good news is it's not my bucks. Whatever you want to do buddy.

So a little wedge on the port box should do the trick...

Nice to see tabman here... :thumleft:  :thumleft:


Corner of 520 and A1A...

December 04, 2010, 11:08:34 PM
Reply #22

Tabman

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Re: help for trim tabs
« Reply #22 on: December 04, 2010, 11:08:34 PM »
Thanks Bob!

I had an '83 Aquasport 20 foot WA for a few years and joined Classic Aquasport in '05 when I still had the boat.  This is a great site, I gotta hang out here more often.

Tom
Bennett Marine


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December 05, 2010, 05:56:11 AM
Reply #23

RickK

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Re: help for trim tabs
« Reply #23 on: December 05, 2010, 05:56:11 AM »
One of the originals  :salut:
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

 

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