Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes > 246/250 CCP Rebuilds

CCP 250 Cap removal

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soggysox:
Just partnered up on a 86 CCP 250 work over. Any tips on removing the cap? Got the rub rail off and cut the transom loose and she aint moving. Don't want to do too much damage to hull or cap. Just a couple soft spots around the console and looks like the transom will need replacing as well. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I do have photos that I will be posting as we go along.

Thanks

RickK:
The cap and liner are all one piece and bonded to the stringers, so getting the cap and liner to pop free will not be easy, for sure.
If you just have a couple soft spots, another option is you can drill and inject resin into the soft floor.  The transom - you can cut out the core and replace/reglass or another option is to dig out the wood and pour in a composite type material.

mshugg:
Why do you want to remove the cap and liner.  As Rick pointed out, they’re all 1 piece.  If you are removing it to access the stringers, sole and transom, it is unnecessary to separate the cap.  The work and risk of damage to your boat is far greater than the benefit.

The hull/deck joint is the easy part.  Remove the rub rail.  Remove the screws.  Cut through the sealant.  At this point, your hull deck seam is free, but you still have flotation foam holding the hull and liner together.  If you succeeded in loosening the foam from the hull sides, you still have polyester bonding putty holding your cockpit sole to the stringers.

This brings us back to the why question.  You mention soft spots.  If it’s just soft spots in the sole, you can inject them with epoxy or even cut out the sections and replace the core from the top easier than separating the liner.  If you’re rebuilding the transom, stringers and sole, then it’s easier to cut out the sole.  Most people leave a lip and use it to support the new sole.  If you don’t need to replace the sole, but need to replace the transom, then you cut the liner and sole 18” to 24” in front of the transom and only remove the section to access the inside of the transom.  There are many examples of both of these approaches in the rebuilds here on Classic Aquasport.

I did separate my cap/liner from my 200 CCP hull, but it was after going through the steps to cut out the sole and repair my transom.  In my case, the wood cores in both the sole and transom were rotten.  Even so, it I had to cut my sole into sections and chisel it away from the stringers.  I could not imagine getting the sole free in one piece, let alone doing it while keeping the liner intact.

After doing that, I did separate my cap/liner.  My why, was because the wood reinforcement for the Hull /deck seam was rotten, and the glass was too thin without some reenforcement.  A secondary reason was to re-core my cap.  If your hull/deck seem is in good shape, it’s easier to skip this step.

soggysox:
 Thanks for the replies guys,and I think we are going to reconsider the cap removal idea since peeping in the available holes reveals that the stringers seem to be ok. We do want to reinforce some of the area that holds the rub rail since there are so many holes and not a lot of bite for new screws.Most likely will just cut out the suspect spots and rewok the floor and cut the cap off near the back as to gain good access to the transom rework. Probably going back with the pour method for that operation. We just getting started so work will be slow but steady since my partner and I both work full time jobs and lots of other life obligations but we hope to be ready by next snapper season. I will post a couple pics when I get home tonight.

thanks again

RickK:
Also you need to know that there is a big area in front of the console (depends which type of console you have) under the deck that is open and not supported well. If you're thinking that area is spongy, it could be that "openess".

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