Yamaha V6 Excel XG 1988 - Weird Buzzer Alarm

[Woodeneye]

Another question. Does your trim gauge work?


Nope

[futch13]

Cap'n Bob... when I disconnect the pink wire the alarm continues to sound....I've attached a photo of the way the buzzer is hooked up. All look kosher?

Wish you would of posted this pic originally, That is an OMC 3 wire warning horn.  Replace horn and problem should be fixed.  They are known to go bad and buzz all the time when key is turned on.

[Capt. Bob]

Wish you would of posted this pic originally, That is an OMC 3 wire warning horn.  Replace horn and problem should be fixed.  They are known to go bad and buzz all the time when key is turned on.

Here's the two wire Yamaha horn on my 91(upper right corner)


That will solve the buzz. The trim indicator on the digital gauge (tach) is not as easy.

[Woodeneye]

Cap'n Bob... when I disconnect the pink wire the alarm continues to sound....I've attached a photo of the way the buzzer is hooked up. All look kosher?

Wish you would of posted this pic originally, That is an OMC 3 wire warning horn.  Replace horn and problem should be fixed.  They are known to go bad and buzz all the time when key is turned on.

opps. Many sorrys.

[Woodeneye]

Wish you would of posted this pic originally, That is an OMC 3 wire warning horn.  Replace horn and problem should be fixed.  They are known to go bad and buzz all the time when key is turned on.

Here's the two wire Yamaha horn on my 91(upper right corner)


That will solve the buzz. The trim indicator on the digital gauge (tach) is not as easy.

Ok. Great stuff. I'll get on it. Thank you again.

[futch13]

Cap'n Bob... when I disconnect the pink wire the alarm continues to sound....I've attached a photo of the way the buzzer is hooked up. All look kosher?

Wish you would of posted this pic originally, That is an OMC 3 wire warning horn.  Replace horn and problem should be fixed.  They are known to go bad and buzz all the time when key is turned on.

Didn't mean for that reply to sound that short.  You can go back with another OMC horn, or go with a Yamaha one. Both are now 2 wire horns.  Get rid of the grd wire and yellow is Key on pwr and the pink is the sender wire.  Hope this fixes the horn problem.  Trim guage problem is probably the sender on the motor.  They have a habit of corroding so the lever will not move.  This is probably the reason the oil system was removed because oil won't transfer when motor is "tilted" as the ground reference feeds thru the trim sender.

[Woodeneye]

No worries...you were right anyways...I SHOULD have posted that photo earlier.

So I've swapped out the buzzer/horn with a new Yamaha 2 wire one. Its stopped buzzing....how do I check if it is actually operational? I tested it prior on a battery and it worked fine. Also just tape off the old redundant black ground and leave it?

I'm seriously considering replacing the whole ignition switch with a new one (kill switch doesn't work either) where you push the key to choke (mine is the toggle type) but it isn't a simple plug & play with no fast connects anywhere or a wire harness. I was going to try and get the trim gauge to work as well and try and cancel out that oil can icon that keeps flashing. Worth it? Or should I leave well enough alone as it may become a can of worms?

[futch13]

No worries...you were right anyways...I SHOULD have posted that photo earlier.

So I've swapped out the buzzer/horn with a new Yamaha 2 wire one. Its stopped buzzing....how do I check if it is actually operational? I tested it prior on a battery and it worked fine. Also just tape off the old redundant black ground and leave it?

I'm seriously considering replacing the whole ignition switch with a new one (kill switch doesn't work either) where you push the key to choke (mine is the toggle type) but it isn't a simple plug & play with no fast connects anywhere or a wire harness. I was going to try and get the trim gauge to work as well and try and cancel out that oil can icon that keeps flashing. Worth it? Or should I leave well enough alone as it may become a can of worms?

To check the horn, disconnect the pink wire from the temp sensor and touch it to ground.  Horn should sound.  Yes just tape off the unused ground wire.

Look at the back of your key switch, if it has screw terminals on it, I hate to say it, but you are SOL with plug and play.  Someone was to cheap to by OEM and cut the harness to put an aftermarket switch in.  That is prolly why your kill switch is disconnected.  If you follow the wire colors, you should be able to hook up a push to choke key switch in it.

Check the trim sender and see if it is frozen in the up position, or the lever is gone completely.  Last time I checked, the sender was around $170.00, OEM.  You might find it cheaper on the intardweb, but don't know for sure.  I think to cancel out the oil light, you might have to jump some wires in the plug where the oil level sender goes to get to quit flashing.  I would have to go to the wiring diagrams and try to remember what cancels out that light.  I will not remove an oil system from a Yamaha.  They are injected behind the carbs and the carbs are not metered for a premix,  Also, there is to great a chance to induce air thru the disconnected oil system and lean a cylinder out.  I have seen to many powerhead failures on motors with a disconnected oil system to warrant the hour or so labor you can get from disconnecting them.  

Yamaha's oil system is too reliable to disconnect, When they do have a problem on a just released motor, they send a recall out and replace the possible defective part ie. HPDI's several years ago.  The few failures I've seen on older models have been due to carbon clogging a duck bill (oil nozzle in the intake).  This was caused by lack of maintenance, not the oil system.

[Woodeneye]

Can't get the new horn to alarm when I ground the thermo sensors....

So I think I figured out why the trim sensor isn't working..... wires are cut.
Clearly whoever rigged this boat didn't care or know too much.  :ncool:
This is a photo of the back of the key switch panel....
Two questions should I re-rig the entire boats electrical?

Is a retro fit of the VRO feasible/worthwhile?

I think I'm entering can of worms territory here............

[Woodeneye]

Back of key switch panel

[Woodeneye]

Cut trim sensor wires

[Capt. Bob]

Cut trim sensor wires

Wood,
Review this thread.
viewtopic.php?p=73481#p73481

Take special note of the Link that Flounderpounder added to his post (several down) Follow that link and again review.
RickK replaced his older gauges with the newer type (like yours) and his trim gauge did not work (note the photo that shows his trim LCD is also fully lit). Yours is disconnected but you may find a way to make it work. The THT link seems to state otherwise but maybe Futch can chime in on this and several members may benefit.

You are right, you have a cobbled wiring set up going on and the newer type gauges IMHO, add to it.

Good luck

[futch13]

As stated in the THT link from FP's post, the 3 wire trim sender runs on a reference voltage and the newer senders and gauges run off potential to grd.  I don't know of a way to get them to work together.  The sender itself is still available from Yamaha for 196.40 MSRP.  For the price of the sender, I would just turn around and look at the motor to see what position it's in.  I always run my boat "by feel" as concerns the trim position.  The only time I look at it is before take off or idling around in the shallows.

As for the horn... key on, ground pink wire to block, should sound horn.  If not, then start following pink wire thru harness to horn and ground at each connection.  With the way the harness has been cut and spliced, there is probably a bad spot some where in between.

You can reinstall the oil system, but not sure if you want to go to that expense, unless you still have the old oil system parts.  I would gave a certified tech reinstall and check out for you if you go that route just to make sure everything is connected and working properly.  That is one area you don't want to cut corners on.  If the motor has been running for a couple of years with out the oil system, I would let it go.  If it was just removed before you purchased, I would probably reinstall the system.  Most of the failures we have seen have been within 6 months or so of removal of oil system.

[Capt. Bob]

As stated in the THT link from FP's post, the 3 wire trim sender runs on a reference voltage and the newer senders and gauges run off potential to grd.  I don't know of a way to get them to work together.

Thanks for the conformation Futch. I spent some time tracking down the older style gauges(OEM on my 91) to replace my sun baked originals and avoid that (and any other) problem. Took some looking but I came across them.

[Woodeneye]

As stated in the THT link from FP's post, the 3 wire trim sender runs on a reference voltage and the newer senders and gauges run off potential to grd.  I don't know of a way to get them to work together.  The sender itself is still available from Yamaha for 196.40 MSRP.  For the price of the sender, I would just turn around and look at the motor to see what position it's in.  I always run my boat "by feel" as concerns the trim position.  The only time I look at it is before take off or idling around in the shallows.

As for the horn... key on, ground pink wire to block, should sound horn.  If not, then start following pink wire thru harness to horn and ground at each connection.  With the way the harness has been cut and spliced, there is probably a bad spot some where in between.

You can reinstall the oil system, but not sure if you want to go to that expense, unless you still have the old oil system parts.  I would gave a certified tech reinstall and check out for you if you go that route just to make sure everything is connected and working properly.  That is one area you don't want to cut corners on.  If the motor has been running for a couple of years with out the oil system, I would let it go.  If it was just removed before you purchased, I would probably reinstall the system.  Most of the failures we have seen have been within 6 months or so of removal of oil system.

Hahaha. Turn around and look. Like it. What I have always done, but I just hate stuff not working or something that is done halfassed. Great thread...thanks Cap'n Bob. Thanks for the suggestion re: the horn Futch. All of the oil system bits are looong gone, I will let it slide. Think I'll get back to fishing and revisit all this coming winter. Thank you all so much for your help. Been terrific and most illuminating.

Cheers,

Woodeneye